AN ANCIENT rubbish tip – inhabited nearly 2,000 years ago – is disappearing into the sea, archeologists have warned.
The Iron Age midden on Skye's west coast has so far yielded bone fragments, stone tools, a button manufactured from horn and the top of a human skull... continues...
Archaeologists believe they have uncovered the first Iron Age burial on the Isle of Skye.
The skeleton from about the 1st millennium BC is thought to be that of a young female. It was found recently in an open stone-lined grave as the archaeologists worked to re-open the blocked entrance to the High Pasture Cave... continues...
I heard some folklore today, unprompted, and I hope the person who told it won't mind me retelling it here. He said that when his father was young (this might be about 60 or more years ago) he lived on Skye for a while, and he'd gone on a long walk over the Cuilleans, accompanying a local man. It took them five hours to get across the mountains and his father then assumed they'd walk the flat way back, along the road. But he was very surprised when his guide said 'well goodbye then' and made to set off the way they'd come. It transpired that the short route home went past a green mound (where, my narrator said, there were, as we would say, fairies, but it was a bronze age burial mound) - and the guide was under no circumstances about to walk past it now that the dusk was falling. He would rather take the five hours back over the mountains in the dark. Which, according to the tale, he did.
The pattern of distribution of monuments near the Red Cuchuillin mountains is very striking, when viewed on the map, for their locations draw a curve around the southern and eastern sides, the monuments roughly equally spaced and delineating the edge of the mountains perfectly. The Red Cuchuillins, then, seem to be of central significant in the positioning of these sites. They are the easternmost part of the Cuchuillin range, the creation of which is described in folklore thus:
"When all the world was new, there was a great heather-clad plain between Loch Bracadale on the west and the Red Hills on the east. It was a dark and lonely place and the Cailleach Bhur (= Hag of the Ridges, i.e. Winter), whose home was on Ben Wyvis, often lived there when she came west to boil up her linen in her washing pot, dangerous Corryvreckan. She was a very powerful and fearsome person who had made Scotland by dropping into the sea a creel of peat and rock which she brought with her from the north. When her clothes had boiled well, she would spread them to bleach on Storr, and while she was in Skye no good weather was to be got at all. Now spring hated her because she held the maiden he loved prisoner (until the girl should wash a brown fleece white) and he fought with her, but she was strong, stronger than anyone else within the four boundaries of the earth, and he could do nothing. He appealed to the Sun to help him and the Sun flung his spear at Cailleach Bhur as she walked on the moor; it was so fiery and hot it scorched the very earth, and where it struck, a blister, six miles long and six miles wide, grew and grew until it burst and flung forth the Cuchuillins as a glowing, molten mass. For many, many months they glowed and smoked, and the Cailleach Bhur fled away and hid beneath the roots of a holly and dared not return. Even now, her snow is useless against the fire hills.
- Otta F. Swire, Skye: The Island and its Legends, 1961, pp. 20-1.
(for more on the Cailleach Bhur in Skye see also Rudha nan Clach)
The Cuchuillins are also noted, in mythology, for the "school for heroes" run by Skiach, "goddess or mortal no one knows which, but undoubtedly a great warrior. Some say she took her name from a Gaelic name for Skye, others that Skye took its name from her" (see Swire pp. 21-3). The Irish hero Cuchuillin, for whom these mountains are named, heard of Skiach and her school, and with three strides travelled from Ulster to her school. After defeating every one of her students, Skiach finally allowed him to fight with her daughter, whom he also vanquished, after two days. Furious, Skiach descended from her heights to fight Cuchuillin herself. After two days of fighting "on the mountains and on the moors and in the sea" the combat was exactly equally matched, with neither able to gain the upper hand. At this stage Skiach's daughter offers both her mother and Cuchuillin a meal of deer stuffed with roast hazelnuts. Each thinking that "the hazels of knowledge" would teach them how to overcome their opponent, the two of them sit down to eat. From the hazels they learn that they are exactly matched, and that neither will ever win over the other. They therefore make peace, and swear that each will answer the other's call, "though the sky fall and crush us". Skiach named the mountains where they had fought in Cuchuillin's honour.
Swire (Ibid., p. 23) records one further curious piece of folklore with regard to the Cuchuillins:
"In the Cuchuillins, too, though exactly where must not be said, is a cave of gold. Unlike all other treasure caves, there are no barriers here between men and untold wealth. No magic word is required. No fearful monster guards the entrance. He who finds the cave may take as much gold as he needs and return as often as he desires more, but each time he enters the cave, and each time he uses the gold, he will become a little more evil and a little more evil, until he loses his soul. That is the price."
"Many people believe that it is from her wings* and her Gaelic name, Eilean Sgiathanach (Winged Isle), that the name Skye comes. Ptolemy of Alexandria (A.D. 200) refers to the island as Sketis, while the ancient Celtic name 'Skeitos' has become Sgiath in modern Gaelic. Adamnan knew it as Scia. This 'wing derivation certainly sounds very probable, more probable than the other version which claims that 'Skye' is Scandinavian, derived from a norse word Ski (cloud). This school of thought takes its stand on the fact that cloud or mist is what would first and most forcibly attract the notice of any stranger visiting the isle**, whereas to notice the 'wings' requires a map. Obviously this school has never tried (as the early Scandinavian settlers most certainly did) to sail around the despised wings. Of course, many place-names in Skye undoubtedly are Scandinavian, but they date from a later time than Ptolemy - four or five centuries later. A third suggestion, once seriously put forward by certain Celtic antiquaries, was that in Skye stood the temple, known to Greek fable, of Apollo among the Hyperboreans, and that the Gaelic name of the island refers to the wings of the Greek god! The name may, in fact, belong to some old forgotten pre-Celtic tongue."
- Otta F. Swire, Skye: The Island and its Legends, 1961, pp. 72-3.
* The "wings" are Skye's various promontories, for example Trotternish, Waternish and Duirnish.
** Skye is also known as Eilean a' Cheò, meaning "The Misty Isle".
"Strath appears to have been a great religious centre ever since prehistoric times. The remains of several stone circles are still to be seen there, in close juxtaposition to a number of ancient churches now in ruins. It seems generally agreed that before St. Columba brought Christianity to Skye the pagan religion of the island was that mysterious cult which has come to us only in the form of stone circles (believed to have been places of worship), monoliths (which in Skye seem to have been frequently connected with graves or burial mounds), and sacred wells and woods, the latter usually hazel groves. St. Columba never attempted to destroy the sacred places of paganism nor the firm belief in the virtues of certain harmless practices he found: instead he blessed them and gave them Christian symbolism, as in the story of St. Turog and the wells at Flodigarry. This is very clearly illustrated in Strath, where five old churches or chapels, now in ruins, stand each beside or near a stone circle, and the graveyards all contain some prehistoric stones as well as having tradition that they were first pagan burial-grounds and later Christian."
- Otta F. Swire, Skye: The Island and its Legends, 1961, pp. 217-8.
Dun Ban occupies the sloping simmit of a conspicuous rock rising some 50ft from the sea-shore connected with the land on the NW by a narrow rocky ridge, above which it rises some 25ft in a steep, grass-covered slope, broken up by several lines of rocky outcrops, two of which seem to have been utilized as defensive lines as there are indications of building in the gaps between the rocks. At the lowest part of the ridge an outcrop has been strengthened at the NE by building so as to form an outer barrier. The summit of the rock, which measures some 80ft E-W and 44ft N-S, shows a sharp slope towards the sea and has been surrounded by a stone wall the greater part of which has disappeared. On the NW, the landward side, at the highest point of the rock, it shows a width of 6ft and a height of 1ft 6ins, and the entrance seems to have been at the NE end of this wall. On the steep E slope, 2ft of the outer face of a well-built wall remains in position over a length of some 21ft.
The remains of Dun a Chleirich occupy the summit of a small rocky peninsular on the sea-shore. It is reached by a narrow neck on the NW or landward side, which stands about level with the fort. Towards the sea, where it is rocky but not precipitous, it reaches a height of 50ft above the beach. It is defended by a stone wall, now very dilapidated, built round the edge of the summit and following the sinuosities of the rock. Internally the dun measures some 52ft NW-SE, and 51ft NE-SW. In some places the outer face of the wall shows 3ft in height, but generally it is very dilapidated. On the NW towards the land, the wall has been of considerable strength, as it now shows a rough mound of stones, 20ft in breadth and 3ft in height at other parts the wall varies from 4ft 3ins - 6ft in thickness.
In the S corner of the enclosure are the stone foundations of a roughly circular structure, about 12ft in diameter internally, the remains of the wall being spread over a width of about 5ft.
The entrance was probably at the E end of the NW wall oppisite the approach ridge.
On the S side of the small bay lying immediately to the S of Rudha Dubh, is a rocky plateau standing some 25-35ft above the sea, and connected with the land on the W side by a narrow neck. It is of very irregular outline, being almost split in two by a deep gully running in from the seaward side. Known usually as Carn Breac, but sometimes as Dun Acardinon, its defensive character is clearly indicated by a stone wall, whose grass-covered mound, some 12ft in width and 3ft high, can be traced on the W side standing on top of the scarp of the hollow outside measuring some 12ft deep. A portion of the ground occupied by this wall has been levelled to form a potato garden, and a section of the wall is exposed. The remains of a wall, now 6ft wide and 2ft high, are seen on the edge of the cliff on the SW, and there are traces of a similar construction to the NE. At this place there is a small terrace lying outside and about 10ft lower than the wall, which has also been defended by a breastwork built on the edge of the rock. The dun measures about 136ft E-W and 87 ft N-S.
RCAHMS 1928.
Dun Acardinon, the remains of a dun, as described by RCAHMS, except that the 'section of wall exposed' is a modern revetment on the edge of the potato patch.
Description of excavations and finds (principally 2009/10 during development works).
In addition a very substantial cairn is at NG 6368 0390:
In an old plantation, now re-afforested, on the W side of Armadale Bay, 280m WNW of the pier , a few feet from and above HWM, there is a large cairn. It measures approx. 25.0m in diameter and 3.5m in height and has been extensively robbed in the S and E quadrants. There are a number of tree-stumps upon it and one stunted tree. (1961 description)
On the shore about 400 yards SSW of Ostaig House is a flat-topped rock tapering away towards the land in a gradually narrowing ridge and rising abruptly some 25ft above the strand. The summit it occupied by the remains of a Dun Ila, a small fort of quadrilateral shape, measuring internally some 46ft NW-SE and 31ft across the widest part, which is next the sea. The remains of its wall, built on the edge of the rock, are traceable all around except on the NE flank. The best preserved parts are towards the land to the NW, where it shows a breadth of 9ft and a height of 4ft 6ins above the interior, and at the W corner, where it is 3ft 6ins high.
Cairns, with well-preserved cists, either side of Allt an Leth-bheinn outlet. Canmore descriptions:
Western site
On the oppisite side of the stream from NG61SW 3 on the summit of a knoll rising abruptly behind a cottar house some 40 yards distant from and 40ft above high-water mark, are the remains of a much dilapidated cairn of stones. A fine cist lies uncovered, formed of four slabs of red grit, and measures 2ft 9ins in length, 2ft in breadth and 2ft 6ins in depth, the longer axis running ENE by WSW. The covering slab lies beside the grave. About 1ft to the E. is the side slab of a second cist still in position, which had been built parallel to the first cist, but the other slabs of this grave have been removed. There are indications of two other burial chambers which have been destroyed.
RCAHMS 1928.
The remains of a cairn with cist; as described by RCAHMS. It is so mutilated and robbed that its size cannot now be determined.
Visited by OS (A S P) 15 June 1961.
Eastern site
Near the shore at Inver Aulavaig, on the E side of the mouth of a small stream, Allt an Leth-bheinn, some 40 yards distant from and 22ft above high water mark, are the remains of two circular cairns of stone occupying a rough heathery ridge.
The first cairn measures 18ft in diameter and barely 2ft in height. It was opened many years ago when the greater portion of the northern half was removed, and a short cist containing a skeleton in a contracted position was discovered in the centre of the mound. The side slabs and one end are still in position and the covering stone lies beside the grave. The cist lies nearly NNE - SSW and measures 3ft 4ins in length, 2ft 2ins in depth, while the cover which is almost square in shape, measures 3ft 9ins long, 3ft 7ins in breadth and 6 ins thick.
The second cairn lies some 15ft (10.0m) SE of the first and is of the same dimensions but better preserved. It contains a central short cist, of which the sides and ends are still in situ. It lies almost due NE-SW and measures 3ft 4ins by 1ft 8ins by 1ft 10ins the cover-stone, which lies quite near, is of irregular shape and measures 3ft 4ins by 2ft 6ins and is 6ins thick.
The W slope of the ridge between the cairns and the estuary shows numerous small heaos of stone said to be the remains of other cairns. Some 27 yards SSW of the second cairn is a small cottar house, immediately to the N of which are the foundations of a former schoolhouse. When the material was being removed, a cist is reported to have been discovered under the floor which is no more than 12ft above high water mark.
RCAHMS 1928.
Two cairns with short cists as described by RCAHMS.
'A' NG 605 127 Cist (Site of).
There is now no trace of the cist in the schoolhouse.
Visited by OS (A S P) 15 June 1961.
Canmore suggests this may have been a vitrified fort, but evidence is not conclusive:
This islet is one of a small group about 300 yards NW of Dun Scaich (NG51SE 1) and about 200 yards from the shore. Its triangular crest is surrounded by the tumbled remains of a stone wall, the debris averaging from 6 to 10ft in width. As there is an unusually large proportion of small stones, the wall could not have stood very high. Here and there a foundation course of larger stones can be traced, indicating the general outline. There are indications of internal shelters against the E side. As some small lumps of stone show distinct traces of fusion by fire, it has been assumed that this has been a vitrified fort. But such pieces are loose and sporadic in occurrence and have probably been brought to the spot. The local belief is that there was once a smithy on the island.
No certain evidence of vitrifaction was seen. Visited by OS (A C) 26 June 1961
The Canmore record suggests standing stones, rather than a circle:
On a gently rising grass-covered slope about 100 yds from the N shore of Loch Eishart and near to Dun Boreraig are two standing stones in juxtaposition, one, 4ft 1in in height, 1ft 9ins in breadth, and 6ins in thickness, which stands erect facing the loch to the S, and another, which is recumbent, 3ft 8ins long, 2ft 6ins broad, and 5ins thick. The stones occuoy the summit of a slight mound.
The slight mound is composed of boulders placed around the base of the slabs. According to local tradition the stones mark the burial of a body or bodies washed ashore, a custom common on Skye.