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Visited 19th May 2012:
Needless to Drombeg (Droumbeag) was very high on my list of stone circles to visit in Cork. However, as it was on the south coast my companion (and driver) sensibly suggested we visit on our return journey to Wexford. So it was with something of a heavy heart that we drove away from beautiful, wild, West Cork towards the more lushly green pastures of the south. I'm not sure if this coloured my visit - Drombeg is in a wonderful setting but I didn't experience quite the same thrill as on the Beara Peninsula - coming across Cashelkeelty by chance on our first full day, followed by Ardgroom. Once again I refer back to Jack Robert's marvellous little book - full of inspired drawings and a comprehensive guide to all the many ancient sites in West Cork. I can't recommend it too highly (can be obtained from bookshops in Bantry and Kenmare).
Taken from “Exploring West Cork” by Jack Roberts
Droumbeag, stone circle, Fulach Fiann and Fort
Named after the townland in which it stands- drum beag (the small ridge) this is perhaps the most well known prehistoric monument in West Cork and easily found as it is liberally signposted from Rosscarbery or Leap. The circle and its attendant Fulach Fian were excavated in 1958 and the findings from this circle constitute a large proportion of our present knowledge of the use and age of these monuments.
The circle has survived in an almost perfect state of preservation, only one of the stones on the eastern side have fallen, and it probably appears now much as it did to those who came here in pre-Christian times. The circle consists of thirteen stones around an area that was cleared and paved with small flat stones. The excavations have revealed a number of burial pits, one of which contained cremated human remains. Unfortunately none of the findings has established a date for the structure but it is thought it may have still been in use towards the beginning of the Christian era.
The name ‘Recumbent Stone Circle’ is thought to have originated from this circle in which the features of this type of monument are particularly pronounced. The recumbent is a large flat-topped block that is loosely set on the ground, not embedded like all the other stones, and bears three deeply carved cup and ring marks. On the opposite side of the circle are the ‘Portal and Pillar stones’, and it is thought that the circle is set in alignment running through the pillars and across the recumbent. This alignment at Droumbeg is towards the winter sun-set which sets in a cleft of the hill to the south-west.
To the west of the circle are the foundations of what are called ‘hut sites’ one of which is set around a hollow in which there is a stone basin fed with water from a nearby spring. This type of monument is also called a Fulach Fian – cooking place of the hunters - and it is thought that the basin was used as a cooking pot. All around this area are the remains of fires and burnt stone and it thought that the pot was heated by dropping hot stones into the water. However there is some thought that says the use of such sites was actually more ritualistic in nature, a steam bath or early sauna?.
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Visited 14/5/2012
After visiting Kealkil we walked down the lane, then turning left walked back uphill to find Breeny More. Views even more spectacular than Kealkil. Breeny More is not signposted and, as we were unable to open the gate, we climbed over.
Again I quote from Jack Robert’s “Exploring West Cork”:
“This was once the largest stone circle in West Cork and its quadrant of cromlechs at the centre formed probably one of prehistoric mans’ most important structures. Unfortunately the destruction of this monument has left few of its original stones intact and the destruction continues into the present day. Even the sign erected at the site which establishes it as one of the few protected monuments of the area has been torn from the ground and is heaped up with some stones that originally formed part of the circle.
At present only three of the circle of stones are in their original positions. These may have been the ‘portal’ stones if it was in fact a ‘recumbent stone circle’. Fortunately the enclosure and its cromlechs have yet to be invaded and these, the most curious aspect of the site, are set in an offset square formation and are facing the south west. A complex site of this nature could possibly have been valuable in the search for clues to the original purpose and use of these types of monuments, had it been handed down to us in good order. In its present condition it is possible that its original meaning has been totally destroyed and so we might never know what our ancestors were trying to achieve by building this puzzling structure.”
“Exploring West Cork” was first published in in 1986, the revised and edited edition was republished by Bandia Publishing in 2009.
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Visited 14th May 2012
Wrote impressions down immediately after the visit "Brilliantly atmospheric site overlooking Bantry Bay and the western mountains". This site is well signposted and involves an uphill walk on a narrow road. It is possible to drive up but parking spaces very limited.
In his superb little book “Exploring West Cork” Jack Roberts has written about Kealkil as follows:
“This is deservedly one of the best known and most important sites in the area consisting of an alignment of two large standing stones, a five stone circle and a radial cairn. The site is situated on a hill to the south of Kealkil village and is sign posted at major junctions.
The site was excavated in the 1930’s and the largest of the alignment stones was replaced in its socket. This originally stood at over 5 metres high (17 ft in the original excavation report) but about two metres of the lower portion had broken when it fell. The cairn was one of the earliest radial stone cairns to be properly identified and these comparatively rare and very curious monuments still baffle archaeology in the present day. Perhaps the suggestion that they were used as astronomical calendars is the best interpretation so far put forward but as yet no one has deciphered how they may have served this function. If megalithic architecture was based on a system of orientation and astronomy then this site with its outlook across a mountainous panorama to the west and north could lend itself to a wide range of interpretive possibilities.”
Footnote: The information board says Kealkil is from 'An Chaolchoill' meaning 'the narrow wood'.
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This site blew me away, totally unexpected. The credit for finding it goes completely to my companion who is a bit of an OS map devotee. On the other side of Eagle Hill, still with sea views - the path leads first to a large thin standing stone about three fields from the narrow road where we left my friend's car. Some barbed wire needed to be negotiated as we couldn't get the gate open (tightly tied up). This site was not signposted so I am guessing we were trespassing.
The wedge tomb is tucked away in the top right hand corner of the field adjacent to the standing stone. It was a perfect small wedge tomb, similar in size to the Cloontreem tomb though in considerably better condition. There seemed to be cup marks on the inside wall of one of the upright stones. A curved row of stones drops down from the tomb towards the standing stone a field away. I had a distinct feeling that tomb and the standing stone were linked together as one site.
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16th May 2012:
Back in Castletownbere and a beautiful sunny day, we follow the sign pointing to the Derrymihane West Boulder Burial and Cloontreem (Clountreem) Wedge Tomb. We opt for a walk uphill to look for the wedge tomb on Eagle Hill. The walk is way marked and we were told by a friendly local resident that the capstone has fallen so easy to miss. And miss it we did; it didn't seem to matter much though as we sat for a while in the lea of some rocks looking out over Bere Haven Harbour glistening in the sunshine. On the way back down we stuck to the trail path and there it was right in front of us. This was the first wedge tomb I had seen and it was much smaller than I imagined and camouflaged by the larger surrounding natural rocks.
The local resident who had given us directions earlier also said there was the shape of a deer on the fallen capstone - we did see this though thought it might be a horse.
Note: there had been a spell of dry weather so the going was relatively easy but be aware this is peat bog land.
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Found this lovely stone circle quite by chance. Whilst wandering around Castletownbere we read about it on an tourist information board. Very easy to find as just uphill out of the town and well signposted. In Jack Robert's "The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula" it is described as follows: "The Stone Circle can be found in a field on the right of the lane less than 2 km from the main road. Mind you go left at the one junction. The orientation of this circle seems to be towards the Equinox sun-set. The land around the circle, particularly on the west side, contains much burnt material and in the neighbouring field is a Fulach Fiadh, or ancient cooking place."
Close by is Teerniatallane (Tir na hAiohleann) Ring Fort.
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Visited 13th May 2012
We went from the village of Ardgroom up a narrow road - circle is well signposted and there is also a heavy duty metal information board by the field entrance. Very boggy though there are stepping stones through the wettest part of the field. This is a circle that speaks very much for itself - views towards the sea were breathtaking.
Jack Rogers writes: "Also known as Canfea Circle. Of two Stone Circles to be found in the lowlands between Ardgroom harbour and the hills. The circle consists of 11 stones, 9 of which are still upright and one Alignment stone outside the circle. Note the little wall that runs through the site as at Kilmacowen. There is also some fine Ring Forts in the area."
Just as a little footnote: I was aware of a large attractive cow at the edge of the field as we walked across to the circle, when I stopped to read the information board on the way back she came rushing over at disconcerting speed. My companion pointed out that there was a newly born calf lying concealed in the marsh grass - the mother cow stood protectively over it until we had walked away.
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Sunday 13th May 2012
I loved this site because visiting it happened quite by chance. After travelling over the Healy Pass with lots "don't look down moments" we were on our to Ardgroom. Julian Cope doesn't mention Cashelkeelty in his Megalithic European section on Cork because it is actually just across the border into Kerry. The green lettered heritage sign was spotted as we drove by so we walked back to investigate without knowing what to expect. A steep climb up through an other-worldly, mossy woodland with waterfalls and streams splashing around us brought us out onto a rocky mountainside track. Another steep walk up the track to what seemed to be a large outlier and small cluster of stones before reaching the main cluster of standing stones. Not sure if I would describe them as circles but they were certainly arranged in two groupings of stones. This was my very first experience of the standing stones of the (circles/alignments) on the Beara Peninsula.
Jack Roberts in his definitive guide 'The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula' describes Cashelkeelty as follows:
"These sites are situated close to a stretch of old trackway, now part of the Beara Way route, known as the 'Old Green Road'. There are two circles but only one of them is recognisable as a circle. This is one of the few sites that have been archaeologically examined and excavations identified the second circle."
As I was to later discover when visiting other sites on the Beara Peninsula - the view is everything. On the side of a mountain, overlooking the sea. A cuckoo was calling ...
This one is dedicated to my Mum!
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Visited 12th May 2012 - on the drive from Wexford to West Cork after an overnight ferry stop. Inspired to visit by Ken Williams' beautiful photos, this site fully lives up to expectations. Magical seems to be the only word to describe it - enclosed in a small grove of oak trees, bluebells and stitchwort all around, foxgloves waiting to open, there is indeed something faery-like about the place. It is a magnificent portal tomb, comparable to Carreg Samson on the other side of the Irish Sea.
Situated near the Waterford county border, take the R682 keeping an eye out for a green lettered heritage sign. Take a signposted turning off this road on the way to Tramore - keep driving until you see another heritage sign pointing the way. The nearby house/farm has had stone walls built with large security gates seeming to obstruct the lane up to the dolmen. Do not be put off - they have built a gap into the stone wall for people to walk through, then just a few metres up the lane. Well signposted.
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I visited Carreg Samson yesterday on the way home from the Fishguard ferry. Almost declined the suggestion make the detour as by this time travel weary and a long journey still ahead.
What an uplifting experience - midday yesterday the sky and sea were sparkling blue. My friend drove to Abercastle via Mathry from where we took a short walk along the coast path to a signpost pointing uphill - quite accessible as steps have been laid. Carreg Samson lived up to all my expectations and felt very much in keeping with the sites I had just been visiting in West Cork as again, facing out to sea. This visit somehow made light of the long drive back to Wiltshire which lay ahead.
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Not possible to visit this site as I was told it is on "very private property."
Today (yesterday now) I made the long bus journey to Amesbury - really worth the effort. The small exhibition in what appears to be an old scout hut grandly called Mellor Hall really captured my imagination. Lots of exhibits of flint arrow heads and auroch bones which have been found at Vespasian's Camp, also at the nearby site of a spring known as Blick Mead. Vespasian's Camp is located 1.5km between Stonehenge and Durrington Walls. It overlooks the Avenue and Bluestonehenge on its western side and the river Avon to the south and east.
Excavations on what was thought to be an Iron Age hillfort reveal the site is much older than previously thought. The finds date back to the Mesolithic period making it 8000 years old; 10,000 pieces of flint and bone have been found. It had previously been dismissed by archaeologists as is in the grounds of Amesbury Abbey which were subject to extensive landscaping in the 18th century. However, David Jacques, Open University students and volunteers undertook small scale field work between 2005-2011.
Blick Mead is a small open basin next to Amesbury Park and immediately south of the southern carriage way of the A303. There is a shallow water course running from it which is currently dry and an artificial drain which would take the water down to the river Avon in wetter conditions. Geologist, Peter Hoare, gave a short, very interesting talk about spring sapping and the effect of water tables rising and falling. He also reported that some dumping of materials had taken place during the building of the A303 which accounted for a layer of clay and flint below the chalk bed rock.
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