GLADMAN

Wondrously located overlooking the Kyle of Durness, I had the good fortune to visit – albeit at the end of a long, packed day – under superb evening conditions. Contrary to usual procedure I’ve taken the liberty of listing successive Canmore entries to highlight how the fabric of our cairns are changing in the course of a few decades:

“A prominent round cairn, 15.5m in diameter and 2.1m in maximum height, which has been robbed to build an adjacent sheepfold. No chamber or cist has been exposed, nor is there any indication of a ditch or retaining circle”. RCAHMS 1911; Visited by OS (F D C) 2 May 1957.

“A disturbed passage of which two pairs of uprights and one capstone are exposed”. Information contained in letters from T C Welsh 24 July and 10 August 1972.

“A bare stone, chambered cairn approximately 14.0m in diameter and 1.6m high; early modern structures built of cairn material intrude on the NE periphery. The passage, in the SE, and the chamber have been partially cleared exposing in the former two sets of slightly displaced uprights, one with lintel slab in situ and the latter a single orthostat”. Visited by OS (J M) 16 November 1978.

The low, coastal hills stretching between Maesteg and Port Talbot are crowned by a number of ancient earthworks/enclosures of which this, to my mind, is certainly the finest... a powerful, univallate hill fort overlooking what is now Margam Country Park.

J.Wiles (11.12.02) reckons it is: “A roughly bean-shaped enclosure, c.270m N-S by 140m, on the summit of an isolated hill, is defined by a bank and ditch, generally reduced to scarps, counterscarped in places.”

The site slopes away from steep, rocky natural defences protecting the southern aspect to the Nant Cwm Phillip covering the north and, despite the presence of a disused reservoir upon the summit, a visit here is a (natural) joy to behold thanks to copious woodland upon all but the eastern flank; there’s also a ‘Minning Low-esque’ copse on top for good measure. The defences are pretty substantial, too.

Now although an approach from the country park seems obvious, may I suggest an alternative? A little east of the main entrance on the A48 a minor road signposted ‘Discovery Centre’ (or something like that) heads north. Follow this to its terminus near Graig Goch where a few cars can be left. Here a path heads westward through the Deer Park – or, if you prefer, ascend to the Ogwr Ridgeway Path above – and will lead you straight to the eastern flank of the fort. Well worth the effort.

Not shown on either the current 1:25k or 1:50k OS maps, I had RCAHMW to thank for highlighting these two wondrously sited cairns. Located upon either bank of the deep gash in the hillside carved by the Nant Mawr as it joins the Nant y Gaseg, Nant y Gwair and numerous other seasonal watercourses in assisting the nascent Afon Dringarth feed the Ystradfellte Reservoir, there are, in my opinion, few less congested spots in the entire National Park.

The downside to this isolation is reaching the cairns in the first place. As it was I approached from the west, ascending the northern aspect of Fan Dringarth to descend steeply toward the prominent sheep folds a little south (downstream) of the Nant Mawr’s confluence with The Afon Dringarth... needless to say this meant ascending the mountain once again upon the return. But there you are. And besides, there is a superb aerial view from Fan Dringarth as compensation. Punters wishing to avoid mountain climbing might wish to consider an approach from the reservoir itself.

Anyway, according to David Leighton (RCAHMW, 17/07/2008):

1) Northern cairn – “...The stony mound... measures 12m in diameter and rises to 1.5m high. An edge set slab on its east side suggests a possible kerb otherwise obscured...”

2) Southern cairn – “...The slightly oval stony mound measures 8m (E-W) by 7.5m and 0.75m high... The interior has been robbed out leaving a hollow of irregular shape about 3m across.”

According to Coflein [J.J. Hall, Trysor, 13 July 2005] this diminutive cairn sited near the wondrous Pistyll y Llyn is:

“The northernmost of two possible funerary cairns on Carneddau Hafod Wnog. A small cairn, probably funerary, 6m in diameter at its base and 0.75m high, and built on top of a natural outcrop...The top of the cairn is flattened, with a slight depression in its centre, filled with numerous quartz boulders. The origin of the quartz is debatable – they may have been added in the recent past”.

An excellent approach to both cairn and waterfall – the latter, to my mind, one of Wales’ finest cascades – can be made from Cwm y rhaiadr at the terminus of the road heading south-eastward into the hills from Glaspwll.

Imaginative locals back in the day reckoned this rocky crag, with some excellent views along Dyffryn Conwy – not to mention across the valley to the northern Carneddau – was a favoured perch of a giant... presumably, to judge by his name, a redhead and therefore not to be trifled with.

Apparently said giant was fond of standing with one foot here and the other upon Pen y Gaer across the way whilst stooping to drink from the Afon Conwy. There are arguably easier ways to slake one’s thirst.

According to Pastscape this aesthetically pleasing site located, with far ranging views, to the immediate approx south-east of the crags of Hunter’s Tor, represents the remains of a:

“Triple-ramparted hillfort of stone with shallow ditches, widely spaced with level berms 12m-15.5m wide between each rampart in the ttradition of SW England. Entrance is from the SE with the end of the middle rampart inturned to form an embanked entranceway which joins the innermost rampart. Entrance through the outer rampart and ditch via a causeway. The outer rampart and ditch are obscured on the slopes to the north and west. condition good despite the removal of much stone for field walls by farmers.“[sic].

Access is excellent since the hill fort is traversed by a public bridleway... however please bear in mind that car parking, if approaching from the north, is non-existent. I therefore left my car roadside at the nearby hamlet of Barnecourt and walked back down the road, ascending via Peck Farm.

According to the Devon & Dartmoor HER (HERMDV8076) the stone row upon Trendlebere Down (SX76600 79239) is:

“Probably a double row, much robbed, and many fallen stones; one undoubted pair of set stones left standing 940mm apart, face to face. It starts at the south end with a ruined cairn, now reduced to a mere ring-cairn. Terminates at north end in another ruined cairn, also reduced to a ring. At this end there is a mound which looks like an independent cairn. Its centre 15.24m to the west of the line of the row. More probably the remnant of the row cairn, turned back by the roadmen, who have despoiled both terminal cairns. The distance between the centres of the terminal cairns is 125.61m....”

Off road parking is available a little along the road to the north-west.. incidentally a short, stiff pull from here will reward the curious visitor with an audience with the quintet of large cairns upon the summit of Black Hill. Well worth the additional effort. But then I would say that, wouldn’t I?

Also worth mentioning is that the stereotypical ‘don’t visit in summer if you can avoid it’ caveat most definitely applies here.

According to Historic England:

“The irregular aggregate field systems on Riddon Ridge are amongst the most extensive recorded on Dartmoor. Their relationship with the Dartmeet coaxial field system is of particular interest. The settlements and cairns provide useful information on the character of occupation in this area during the Bronze Age and together with the other Bronze Age remains, this monument represents an important and relatively rare instance of an area containing good examples of the major settlement and land division types found on the Moor....”

So, this sleepy, low ridge near to the tourist bustle of Bellever would appear of much more significance to students of Bronze Age domestic life than I assumed... as I chanced upon a very fine, solitary hut circle en-route to the funerary cairn.

More here:
historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1018930

Occupying a north facing spur between Marston Down and the course of the River Teign this complex promontory fort is, for me, by far the finest of a local triumvirate also including Prestonbury Castle and Cranbrook Castle, consisting of a pretty standard defended enclosure supplemented by a massive outer cross bank. This latter feature is much more powerful than the inner defences and, unusually in my experience, sited a substantial distance beyond, anticipating, perhaps, the ‘aggressive defence’ of medieval concentric castles. There are further earthworks covering the approach to the site, these including a ‘hollow way’ which Pastscape would appear to regard as contemporary and not, as I assumed, a later stock control feature – a proto-barbican, if you like. Clearly the architects of this ‘fort had big ideas and, furthermore, were not afraid to put them into practice.

This intriguing, sleeping behemoth of a site is suitable for family visits as well as the dedicated hill fort head since it is serviced by its own woodland car park reached via a minor road north of Wooston Farm.

During my visit local volunteers were engaged in a geophysical survey... so chances are Wooston Castle may soon reclaim its former standing amongst Dartmoor’s elite Iron Age enclosures.

Prospective visitors looking to track down the monuments set within the environs of Black Newtake – that is the area to the south west of Bellever Tor – are hereby advised:

1) Do not attempt to do so in high summer (unless you’re a bit of a loon) since the – in places – waist high grass renders identification of monuments a serious challenge. Not to mention very physically demanding. Yeah, tell me about it.
2) Make sure you possess the 1:25K OS map. The 1:50k version does not possess the required detail.

Due to the above I’ve only listed the damaged, yet seriously evocative cairn circle sited here. However, for what they are worth, I’ve included further images of two ‘cists’ I believe I located within the Interpretive Section. However these are very much subjective and open to correction. Naturally.

According to Coflein these barrows were only (finally) discovered – from the air – in 2013:

“Pair of well-preserved round barrows, discovered during Royal Commission aerial reconnaissance under snow on 24th January 2013. The barrows sit 60m apart on the northern edge of common land, which also preserves wider-spreading remains of ancient field systems. The smaller western barrow.. (SS88847580)... measures approx. 14m diameter and stands 0.6-0.7m high preserving its smooth, conical shape. The larger, flatter, eastern barrow (SS88927583).. measures approx. 21m diameter and stands 0.6m high....” Toby Driver, RCAHMW, Feb 2013

Well seen by visitors to Sugar Hill to the north-east, Pastscape has this to say:

“A Bronze Age bowl barrow is visible on aerial photographs as an earthwork. Classified by Grinsell as Aldbourne 14 the barrow has since been ploughed out and is now visible as a cropmark of mound and outer ditch with a diameter of 40m. In the centre of the barrow is the mark of a pit possibly the result of excavations. When Greenwell excavated in 1878 he discovered a primary cist with a cremation and associated scrapers. The barrow may be associated with the two possible Bronze Age round barrows to the east (SU 27 NW 101; SU 27 NW 171).”

Two round barrows, one more or less ploughed out, the other pretty substantial stand some way to the approx west of The Giant’s Grave. According to Pastscape:

“The larger and more complete of the two barrows, at SU 2433 7642, measures 30m in diameter and displays no sign of an outer ditch. In the centre of the barrow the soilmark of a pit is visible. The smaller of the two, at SU 2431 7643, measures only 20m, but is barely visible as it has suffered damage from ploughing. [RAF 106G/UK/1415 3312 14-APR-1946]”

It would appear folks have got a little confused over time as regards what was found at which of the many barrows in the vicinity of Aldbourne. However I believe the following, taken from Pastscape (MONUMENT NO. 225145) refers to this example, well seen from the ridge west of The giant’s Grave:

“Aldbourne 6, (WG 280) 30 paces in diameter x 5 1/2ft in height, (2) no trace of ditch (3). Excavation by W Greenwell revealed a primary cremation on a plank of wood in a cairn beneath the barrow, surrounded by wood ashes. Associated
objects found include an Aldbourne cup with lid, parts of a bronze dagger, two bronze awls, beads of faience, amber, shale and encrinite, a shale ring-pendant and ring, a V-bored button, the cast of a cardium shell and a polished haematite pebble. A secondary (?) burial of scattered burnt bones was discovered to the north with a lidless Aldbourne cup, inlaid with white material, two flint arrowheads, one barbed and tanged, the other triangular. In the material of the barrow were nine sherds (1 of beaker) and many flint flakes. (2 & 3).
Wessex grave 33 (4). Finds went to the British Museum (2). (2-4)”

With such a prosaic name... it doesn’t take a visionary Citizen Cairn’d (luckily for me) to suss that here, crowning this (relatively) low hill top overlooking the northern aspect of Llyn Tegid (incidentally Wales’ most copious natural lake), we have the remnants of a prehistoric cairn.

Coflein is curiously non-committal... but not so The Ordnance Survey, depicting the monument immediately to the east of their triangulation pillar upon the 1:25K version of their unsurpassed mapping. The Gwynedd Archaeological Trust complicate matters somewhat by additionally citing a monument a little to the north-east at SH89633551:

“(PRN 6239) Low flat-topped cairn... to North East of cairn on summit. Site completely turfed over apart from eroded area around a large boulder on South East. Cairn pock-marked with several holes (now completely grass grown). Erosion on South East side reveals small stones and earth. Stones max. 0.2m (apart from 2m long boulder)... Material excavated from largest hole appears to be very strong (Smith 2001).”

So... perhaps we have more than just the one monument, then? Whatever the truth, for me the 360 degree unrestricted panorama of mountains and hills is instructive – in short, the positioning is classic, nigh on perfect. Yeah, on a clear day the views would be breathtaking, taking in The Arans, Arenigs and associated wonders; my visit, dictated by a lowering cloudbase obscuring the encircling summits, was hostile, to say the least. But nevertheless well worth the effort.

Interesting notes from a Victorian gentleman... featuring the archetypal, somewhat self conscious arrogance... that are nevertheless priceless scraps of detail relating to the ‘opening’ of the wondrous Skelpick Long Cairn:

“NOTES OF CROMLECHS, DUNS, HUT-CIRCLES, CHAMBERED CAIRNS, AND OTHER REMAINS, IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. BY JAMES HORSBURGH, OF LOCHMALONY, ESQ., FIFE, F.S.A. SCOT.

At Skelpick, close to the farmhouse, are two round cairns, one nearly demolished, and the other has apparently been opened. Beyond this, on the right bank of the Skelpick burn, there is a long cairn, 80 or 90 yards in length, which I opened, and came upon a polygonal-shaped chamber, 11 feet diameter, the sides consisting of large stones 6 feet high, one of them 7 feet by 4 and 1J feet thick, placed at a distance from each other of 3 or 4 feet, the intervals being built up with long square stones. The roof had been formed by very large flags overlaying each other. The chamber had been opened from the top, and the whole inside was filled with stones and rubbish, so that I only cleared it out. Before I commenced operations, however, there was no appearance of it having been meddled with, and I dug it by chance, where the cairn appeared to be highest. Nothing whatever was found in it.”

So much damage. So little applied science... “I dug it by chance”. Nevertheless it survives as (in my opinion) one of the Uk’s finest Neolithic long cairns. Come see it if you get the chance.

Field report to complement Carl’s:

‘A few miles from Durness, on the road to Gualan House, there are two cairns. One of them was opened many years ago and I was told that the bottom of a brass candlestick was found in it; this was no double an elliptical Scandinavian brooch. The other was opened by Professor Worsaae, who took away a skull from a small kist that was in it. The kist was full of bones when I saw it and I took a thigh bone out . . . it was remarkably fresh. The hillock on which they were placed is called Cnoc-na-cnavan.‘

J Horsburgh 1870.‘

Source: Canmore

Wasn’t sure about this at the time.... however in retrospect my thoughts concur with the Canmore record:

“...amongst the stone clearance mounds of a field system is a probable cairn. It differs from its neighbours in that it is appreciably larger, 10.0m N-S by 9.0m E-W and 0.8m high, and is of regular rounded form. No cist or kerb is exposed; the mound like the adjacent clearance is completely obscured by peat...

Visited by OS (N K B) 26 April 1977.”

I’ve also included a couple of shots of what would appear to be a small clearance cairn.

I stumbled/blundered upon this well sited, reasonably substantial cairn when more-or-less dead on my feet following sensory overload – and, OK, physical overload – at Langcombe Brook. I therefore only lingered for a short while, which, in retrospect does the monument a disservice. It is worth more, featuring significant upland vibe...

Located upon the south-western slopes of Higher Hartor Tor, Pastscape has this to relate about the monument:

“...It comprises a 9.5m diameter and up to 0.6m high ragged 3.0m wide ring of stones and small boulders. In the disturbed central area which is about 0.5m deep one slightly off-centre upright slab is visible : it is 0.2m high and 0.6m long and it could represent part of a robbed cist.”

Two attempts to locate this cairn in Feb 2016 – one in appalling weather with mist at road level, the other with the additional assistance of the Mam C – proved inconclusive. Coflein has this to say:

‘A round cairn is located on a south-east facing slope at 470m above OD. The slightly oval, flat-topped stony mound measures 8m (N-S) by 7.1m with a height of about 0.3m.... From the rim, on the east and north, there protrude a number of upright and leaning slabs, probably the remains of a kerb. In particular, on the east side there are two inward leaning slabs with exposed lengths of 0.7m and widths of 0.5m and 0.6m.’ [David Leighton, RCAHMW, Feb 1985]

We did, however, locate two interesting features... images of which are posted. Hopeful that other members may be able to succeed so we can return and enjoy the vibe here once again.

From a purely archaeological perspective it is unlikely, in my opinion, that the low, circular feature crowning the deceptively spacious summit of Foel Darw will raise the pulse of any save the die hard prehistorian. However, if exquisite views... and a sense of occupying a special place in the landscape for an hour or two feature in your bag, a visit to Foel Darw’s something for you, too. Schedule a visit as a prelude to the great Nant Tarw complex – or even the twin cairns upon Garn Las across the valley – and I reckon you’ve got yourself a classic day. Dirty white vest optional.

According to RCAHMW (Dave Leighton 20/2/01: ‘On the summit of Foel Derw a low turf-covered stony ground swelling probably marks the remains of a cairn. It measures 11m in diameter and no more than 0.2m high’.

Since this chambered cairn stands within private property prospective visitors might wish to plan ahead to avoid potential disappointment. Yeah, do it properly rather than replicate my farcical – albeit ultimately successful – attempt.

If so contact e-mail address is: [email protected]

Located near to the fine chambered cairn Carn Richard this settlement, well positioned overlooking the River Helmsdale, consists of seven round houses, two of which are particularly well preserved... and an enclosure to boot.

The site was “found during field investigation in 1961 on a south facing hill-slope where RCAHM in 1909 had reported a field system. A further hut at NC 83773170 was discovered in 1968”

[RCAHM 1911; OS (WDJ, 1961; AA, 1968]

Anywhere else but here – set above the Meldon Burn between the towering hill forts of Black and White Meldon – this would be a headline monument worth a substantial trip in its own right. As a bonus site... well... the abundance of the archaeological and aesthetic riches available in the immediate locality takes the breath away as comprehensively as the brutal slogs to the aforementioned summits. Ideal as a less demanding – in a physical sense, at least – alternative visit, or as a post-exertion evening chill-out, proving the idiom that things aren’t always black or white..... (sorry).

Anyway, according to the RCAHMS 1967 (visited 1959) the settlement consists of:

“Two stone-walled enclosures, one of which has been built inside the other are situated on a broad natural terrace near the foot of the W slopes of White Meldon Hill. The earlier.. (is)... 220’ by 180’ ... surrounded by a heavy wall, 12’ in thickness... The later..... 165’ by 120’ within a wall consisting of a rubble core faced with heavy angular blocks....the collapsed debris indicate a thickness of 10’.”

Standing sentinel over Glen Loth, where the road begins its descent to the megalithic cornucopia of the Strath of Kildonan, Ben Uarie, at 2,044ft (623m) is way, way down the list of Scotland’s highest peaks. In fact it’s not even the tallest in the area, that accolade bestowed upon neighbouring Beinn Dhorain. It is, however, a striking mountain, dominating the upper reaches of the glen by sheer force of profile.

Although not currently featuring upon Canmore’s database, Ben Uarie is crowned by the remains of a significant cairn, significant in terms of size of embedded footprint – if not height – and featuring an OS triangulation pillar within a modern, circular shelter. In addition there are – to my mind – clear remnants of a former kerb still in situ strongly suggesting an ancient origin. It would appear the aforementioned Ordnance Survey people agree, the cairn featured in antiquarian typeface upon the latest 1:25k map (but not the 1:50k).

It would also seem that Ben Uarie is woven into the tapestry of local folklore, Sinclair (Stat, Acct of Scotland, XV. 191) relating how the imposingly statuesque Clach Mhic Mhios – otherwise known as Clach Macmeas – ‘was hurled to the bottom of the glen from the top of Ben Uarie by a giant youth when one month old’. The fact that the nearer – and, as mentioned, higher Beinn Dhorain was not name-checked as source of the monolith is surely significant, reflecting an association with the mountain stretching way back into the mists of time.

The denuded remains of several cairns can still be visited some 300-odd yards to the approx south-east of the Langstone Moor stone circle, standing above the River Walkham.

With Great Mis Tor dominating the southern aspect the location is pretty special, even if the archaeology won’t compete with the nearby great ring. Perhaps it was not always thus, however, a ‘stone circle or kerb’ being cited – presumably at SX 55757812 – in 1898 [T Devon Ass 30 1898 112].

Note that the map also depicts settlements to the east and below to the approx south-west.

Located below and (roughly) to the north-west of Yes Tor, Longstone Hill possesses a couple of Bronze Age cairns of its own....

Now I believe I visited the monument at SX56909053, cited by Pastscape thus:

“A very disturbed cairn 630m SSE of the flagpole on Longstone Hill. The mound measures 8.7m N to S by 8.3m and stands a maximum of 1.0m high on its W side. The W half of the interior is occupied by two amorphous hollows, which appear to be unrecorded antiquarian excavations. Spoil from these features has been deposited on the S flank of the cairn. There is no evidence to suggest the presence of a kerb or cist. Scheduled”

More or less dead on my feet by this point I consequently bypassed what appeared to be other examples, including one such at cSX567911. The location boasts excellent views, in my opinion well worth an extended visit if the high plateau of Yes Tor/High Willhays does not appeal. Particularly so if your sojourn includes a wander around the stark rock formations of Black Tor....

It would appear there was a lot more going on upon the summit plateau of High Willhays during prehistoric times than is readily apparent to today’s casual visitor.... assuming any visit to south-western England’s highest point can be termed ‘casual’, that is.

In addition to the ‘tor cairn’ at SX58028944, an arc of conspicuous orthostats due east of the summit tor at SX58038922 caught the eye of this traveller. The summit crags themselves are crowned by an an almost impossibly tidy walker’s cairn, a stone pile balanced upon the naked rock in a such a seemingly precarious fashion that a gust of wind might well send it crashing to the coarse grass below. So why the existance of several relatively substantial upright stones clearly standing vertical – well, more or less – as a result of human agency? My immediate theory was the arc may once have formed a section of kerb retaining a cairn of which the summit remnants are all that remain.

Funnily enough at least one earlier, not to mention more experienced traveller, came to a not too dissimilar conclusion. To quote Pastscape:

“A semi-circle of leaning orthostats adjacent to the E side of one of the outcrops forming High Willhays. The stones remain a maximum of 0.75m high and describe an arc some 9m in length. Small boulders and slabs are interspersed with the orthostats suggestive of a ring cairn, in this case attached to the tor. The outer ring... is visible as a slight scarp a maximum of 0.2m high curving around the NE quadrant of the inner ring. It may represent a second element to the cairn or, more likely, be the result of stone removal in the more recent past. The outcrop to which this cairn is attached is crowned by a recent walkers’ cairn which presumably contains material derived from this feature. [Probert SAJ 15/9/2003, EH Field Investigation]”

These two upland cairns stand, as you’ll probably guess from the title, immediately below and more or less to the south of Cadair Fawr.

According to Coflein the northern of the pair [at SN97721199] “measures 7.5m in diameter and 0.3m high, and consists of loose rubble consolidated around the perimeter”. So, not exactly overwhelming in scale, then. But substantial enough. For me, however, the monument is given a massive injection of vibe by having been located between two small shake holes, the apparent – oh, come on! – association of Bronze Age monuments with such natural landscape phenomena quite a local speciality, so it would seem.

The second cairn lies at SN97791191 and “measures 7.1m (E-W) by 6.1m and 0.3m high. It is composed of loose unsorted stones and small boulders.” [both quotes DKL/DJP 3.86].

These cairns would suffice as the focal points of specific visits in most areas, I guess. However such are the treasures in the locale that.... well, there you are.

Cefn Sychbant East
SN98631101

Unfortunately fast approaching darkness ensured I did not have time to do this site justice.... consequently I left it – together with a neighbour further east at SN98921108 – for another day.

Set to the approx north-east of the much larger monument at SN98551095, the exact form appears uncertain. According to Coflein the monument is:

“...a grass-grown stony ring bank 0.3m high, 1.2m wide...diameter of about 10.5 to 11.5m. There is slight evidence for an inner kerb of larger stones. In the 1950s ‘a wrecked central cist’ revealed a sandstone disk 4cm in diameter and 1cm thick, now in the National Museum” [David Leighton, RCAHMW, Jan 1983].

As for the cairn located at SN98921108:

“...defined by two stony arcuate banks on the east and west separated by a distance of 10m and suggesting an overall diameter of 15.4m. The banks are 2m-3m wide and 0.25m high.... On the cairn’s outside west edge is a embedded a thick sandstone slab, perhaps the remains of a kerb. It is not clear if this is a remnant cairn... or a ritual monument of the ‘hengiform’ or ring cairn type....” [David Leighton, RCAHMW, 19 Oct 2010].

Travellers walking the length of Graig Ddu, Y Gamriw’s north-eastern ridge, will have the pleasure of visiting a trio of relatively substantial upland cairns in a linear procession. In fact I wouldn’t have minded walking all the way back to Llanwrthwl... if I could have cadged a lift back to the car. As it was I had to settle for visits to cairns I and II – back in September 2012 – before dropping steeply southward down to the road. Although on second thoughts ‘settle’ is hardly appropriate in the circumstances, not with the robust Y Elenydd weather patterns seeing fit to illuminate the otherwise uncompromisingly hostile sky with wondrous lightshows of indescribable intensity. Not to mention subject me to a good dowsing or three. Needless to say images and/or comment regarding cairn III would be most welcome.

Oh, the technical bit. Coflein’s data are thus:

Graig Ddu I – (SN95326171): “A mountain ridge-top cairn, 12.5m by 13.4m and 0.9m high, the centrally much disturbed.” [RCAHMW AP965026/66; J.Wiles 16.09.03]

Graig Ddu II – (SN95666204): “...14.9m by 13.1m and 1.0m high, having a contiguous platform, 5.0m wide and 0.3m high, on the NE.” [RCAHMW AP965026/67; J.Wiles 17.09.03]

Graig Ddu III – (SN95986255): “Cairn on E edge of mountain ridge, 8.5m in diameter and 0.5m high, of which it is thought only the base remains. A modern sheepshelter occupies the NW area” [J.Wiles 23.04.02]

Located a little distance below, and to the north of, Y Gamriw’s summit cairn, this pair crown a NE-SE aligned ridge, complementing the sentinel monument nicely. In my opinion. There are fine views toward the stone circle (and whatever else may be there...) located in the vicinity of Crugian Bach, not to mention further afield across Cwmdeuddwr.

According to Coflein the north-eastern (Coflein II) is
“A much disturbed cairn, 14.9m by 16.7m and 1.8m high.”

The south-western (Coflein III) is “A tumbled and ill-defined cairn, 15.2m in diameter and 1.5-2.4m high, a large central crater is occupied by rough stone shelters.”

[RCAHMW AP965026/65 – J.Wiles 17.09.03]

There is a trio of cairns located upon the summit plateau of 1,774ft Carn Gron, a shapely large hill / mini-mountain a little under 4 miles to the approx north-west of Tregaron. According to Coflein:-

Summit Cairn – SN73976106:
“A round cairn, 16.5m in diameter & 1.2m high, set upon the highest point of Garn Gron, having a shelter constructed on the E side, with the NE segment having been cleared to ground level; possible cist elements are exposed at the centre”

Cairn II – SN74006108:
“A modern cairn, 5.0m in diameter & 1.8m high, is set upon the turf-covered base of an apparent earlier cairn, 9.0m in diameter”

Western Cairn – SN73786114:
“A subcircular cairn, 15m N-S by 14m & 1.2m high, set on the W summit of Garn Gron, apparently touched on its NE side by Gwys-yr-Ychen-bannog linear boundary feature; a central disturbance displays possible cist elements”.

[J.Wiles 23.07.04]

The Coflein entry by J.J. Hall [8 Sept 09] notes the following:

“A low cairn, up to 0.5m high and measuring 6m north to south by 5m. Most of the cairn body is in fact very low, less than 0.2m high, but stone has been piled up to create a marker cairn... on the northern side of the monument. There is no evidence of any intrusive activity.”

Yeah, I’d concur with that. Incidentally Coflein cites the cairn to be located at SN8922773383, slightly off from what I made it. Happy to be subsequently corrected.

Coflein has this to say about this overwhelmingly massive Lleyn hill fort:

“Garn Boduan is a titanic hill-top enclosure, about 512m from north to south by 384m, defined by two successive and somewhat divergent stone-walled rampart circuits. Within are about 170 circular stone walled structures, generally in the region of 5.2-7.3m in diameter. Upon the highest, eastern edge, of the site is a small stone-ramparted enclosure, about 70m from north to south by 30m. Both the greater and smaller enclosures have two gates, one of each being anciently blocked. A single sherd of pottery indicates second century AD occupation.” [RCAHMW, August 2011].

The siting is not as enigmatic as that enjoyed by Tre’r Ceiri across the way, despite proving a magnificent viewpoint for the whole of Lleyn; nevertheless the defences – and in situ hut circles – stand comparison with ease.

I must confess the existence of this extensive grouping of cairns to the west of the hillfort Craig y Dinas came as a complete surprise to me, nothing being shown on either the 1:25K or 1:50K OS map. It would appear there are also numerous hut circles /settlement features in the vicinity, too.

The relevant Coflein record is apparently based upon an oblique aerial image, the size of the main cairn here (at co-ordinates I’ve given for the site) clearly suggestive of a prehistoric origin, as opposed to later clearance. Hopefully the ground level detail I’ve been able to capture collectively makes a strong supporting case for the existence of some ritual monuments set within clearance piles of undetermined age.

According to Coflein the main round cairn is:

“Stone cairn, c.9m diameter, visible on oblique cover. Probable prehist. ritual monument. Part of larger cairnfield.”

As regards the cairnfield:

“Extensive cairnfield c.169mx173m (mapped) which can be traced for some 530m N/S. Likely Prehist. origins mixed with U med clearance. Open pasture gently slopes to SW.”

Note also the placement of a very large cairn near of the summit of Moelfre to the approx north-east.....

Unlike the larger cairn occupying the summit of this rocky ridge (SN879867) CPAT [PRN4960] reckons this cairn probably represents additional field clearance upon an original monument:

“Poss cairn some 7m dia built around natural outcrop may be natural feature (CPAT site visit, 1978). Area now afforested site unlocated – prob destroyed (OS, 1981)....Site is now occupied by a modern clearance cairn. Probably an ancient site reused (Gibson, A M , 1998 , Prehistoric Funerary & Ritual Sites: Upper Severn Valley).”

I was actually looking for the nearby Pen-y-cerrig cairn shown on the map a little to approx north-east. However I failed to positively identify that one – make of that what you will – but stumbled upon this instead as compensation. That’ll do. Some great views, too, particularly toward Pumlumon.

Well seen from the viewpoint at Mam Ratagan, this small stone fort appears not to have survived the passage of time too well (unfortunately I did not have time to check this out conclusively owing to the unexpected excellence of Caisteal Grugaig.... maybe next time, then). Nevertheless the landscape context is first class, the enclosure crowning a rocky promontory near the far eastern shore of Loch Duich, set beneath a towering mountainscape including ‘The Five Sisters of Kintail’.

According to Canmore the dun is:

‘... Oval on (sic) plan, the dun measures 24.5m E-W by 16.0m N-S within a wall c. 2.5m thick, reduced to a stony scarp with a few stones of the outer face visible intermittently around the W half. A deep hollow at the modern S approach probably denotes the mutilated entrance. In the interior in the NE, is a modern enclosure, 6.0m E-W by 7.0m N-S within a wall 0.8m thick. [OS (A A) 13 June 1974]‘

Dunan Diarmid is one of a quartet of ancient defensive sites in the environs of Loch Duich.... the restored castle of Eilean Donan, to the west, apparently stands upon the remnants of a vitrified enclosure, whilst Torran a’Bharraich overlooks the southern flank. Arguably the finest is the broch of Caisteal Grugaig, near Totaig, complementing Eilean Donan guarding the confluence of Loch Duich with Lochs Long and Alsh.

According to Canmore this attractively located crannog within beautiful Loch Ederline is:

‘a tree-covered boulder mound, the dry area being c 7m in diameter at the time of survey....around 75% of the site is submerged. The diameter of the base of the stone mound is 17m, and the site is located 55m from the modern W shore of the loch’ [see Cavers, M G (2003a) ‘Argyll Crannog Survey (various parishes), crannog sites’, Discovery Excav Scot, vol.4 Page(s): 26]

In retrospect it is pretty obvious, I guess, that such an overwhelmingly strategic location as Eilean Donan should have been occupied and fortified for as long as humankind has detemined a need for such things... it took a while for the penny to drop, however, that the castle which delights tourists by the coachload is but the latest in a long line of defensive structures to stand upon this little island. A chance viewing of the magical word ‘vitrification’ in an old childhood book prompted a search of the Canmore database; thus:

’ A straight length of collapsed walling some 55.0m long lies close to the shoreline on the NW side of the bridge.....and loose pieces of vitrification occur amongst the debris. Despite this, however, it may be relatively modern but there is little doubt that a vitrified structure formerly occupied the island. [OS (A A) 19 June 1974]‘

Surely one of the most photographed castles in Scotland, the current structure is a virtually complete restoration (although apparently more or less faithful to surviving original plans) of a 13th century castle undertaken by Lt-Col MacRae-Gilstrap between 1912-1932. By all accounts it was a massive project, the castle, garrisoned by Spanish troops supporting the ‘Old Pretender’ Jacobite uprising, having been pounded to oblivion by three Hanoverian frigates sailing up Loch Duich in May 1719. Proper history, that.

No doubt Eilean Donan experienced an active prehistory, too, standing at the confluence of Lochs Duich, Long and Alsh, the latter a gateway to the sea via Kyle Akin. Note that a fine broch, Caisteal Grugaig, substantial remains of which still exist, overlooks the ‘meeting of the lochs’ from across the water to WSW. By all accounts all but a trace of Eilean Donan’s Bronze Age ancestry has been buried beneath later masonry. But, needless to say men o’war could nae sink an island.

In retrospect it is clear I mistook Dun an Ruigh Ruadh – just up the road – for this. Serves me right for not having the OS map of the area or that would have been two sites for the price of one. Anyway, to get to Dun Lagaidh it appears the traveller needs to proceed to the end of the tarmac in Loggie and follow the path NW (ish). The broch commands the most narrow part of Loch Broom. Apparently.

Anna and Graham Richie (once again) supply some detail by way of my battered Oxford Archaeological Guide to Scotland; in summary in seems that excavations undertaken during the 1960’s established the first phase of the site to be a large, univallate stone walled fort founded c700 BCE and then ‘vitrified’. Make of that what you will. Later the eastern section of the fort became the site for a powerful, defensive roundhouse.... a broch to you or I. Or perhaps dun. Finally, sometime during the 12th century, it seems this ‘broch’ was upgraded to serve as the donjon (keep) of a castle, the remainder of the fort similarly upgraded to serve as the bailey. So there you are, some two millennia of human occupation. Seems ‘recycling’ to save the environment is actually rather old hat. We’ve been doing it for years.

This appeared to be a good example of a crannog, albeit a fair distance away from the wooded picnic area at the western end of Loch Achilty. According to the Highland HER (MHG7791) it is:

‘...a tree-covered, artificial island about 80 yards from south shore of Loch Achilty. It measures 54’ – 60’ by 34’ – 42’ and stands about 2’ above normal water level. It is built of evenly coursed stones, and has a regular batter, foundations measuring 79’ by 59’. Timber projects from the NW, SW and east sides. [O Blundell 1913; D MacDonald, A Polson and D Brown 1931].‘

The other island within the loch, Eilean Mhielidh (NH 43485702) is ‘undoubtedly natural and no trace of buildings could be found on it [OS (R D) 12 July 1965]’. It is apparently not clear whether this island or the crannog is associated with a gentlemen known as MacLea Mor.

NOTE: don’t forget to check out the nearby henge Achilty.

Unfortunately missed these... I would say due to the somewhat misleading RCAHMS nomenclature... but that would be unfair since I was in no fit state to visit anyway back in May, following a day upon the sacred summit towering above.

To reiterate the discussion findings, note that this site has nothing to do with the great cairn crowning Beinn Na Caillich, but – according to 1:25K OS map (they are not depicted upon the 1:50k) – consists of two chambered cairns within forestry at the co-ordinates given, that is in the vicinity of the Broadford River.

I’d suggest taking the Old Corry road just outside of Broadford and, parking near the Electricity Sub Station, it would appear an audience can be gained by following the pylons beyond (to the approx south-east), keeping a little to their right. Perhaps. Might need to cross a water course, so happy hunting!

Sited a little way to the approx north-east of the fabulous Cow Castle upon the same ridge, this is actually a quite well defined enclosure, particularly when viewed from Langloch Knowe across the pass.

An RCAHMS record (1978) reckons the site measures ‘internally about 37m by 30m’ [and] ‘has been enclosed originally by a boulder-faced, rubble-cored wall, probably not more than 3m thick, now represented by a low scarp or crest-line on all sides except the S and SW where it survives as a grass covered stone bank measuring 6m in maximum thickness.‘

The site possesses fine views toward the large enclosure crowning nearby White Hill; unfortunately an ewe consumed by her inability to help her (presumably) dying lamb ensured I could not linger.... my presence was the last thing she needed. Thankfully the farmer arrived soon afterward to no doubt do what needed to be done.

This is the cairn mentioned by Strathspey in his Scotsburn Wood East notes....

I guess most anywhere else but here the monument – described by the Highland HER as being ‘15.5m in diameter and 1.2m high, truncated in the S by a forestry road’ (MHG14289) – might well be the objective of a primary visit. However in Scotsburn Wood it undertakes the role of a pretty substantial supporting act.

Cheers to Mr Grant for opening a shaft to this rich seam of Scottish prehistory. As is usually the case within forestry, I struggled to find anything .... but a combination of 1:25k map, compass and luck won out in the end. Persevere, for there is true vibe to be experienced at the monuments here, my friends.

According to the survey made by Assynt’s ‘Hidden Lives’ project in Nov 2009:

‘This crannog appears as a circular flat-topped island approximately 8m from the shoreline of the loch. It is covered in grass with no trees. The island was about 15m in diameter and 1m high above the water line at the time of survey. A causeway is suggested from the east side connecting to the shoreline of the loch but due to high water levels it was inaccessible and therefore not wholly visible at the time of survey. No details of construction methods were visible from the shoreline’.

Source: Text/Report/Fieldwork Report: Cavers, G & Hudson, G. 05/2010. Assynt’s Hidden Lives: An archaeological survey of the the parish. AOC Archaeology Group and Historic Assynt. 01/08/2010. Digital. 13, p.71.

Not shown on the OS 1:50K map, this mutilated cairn, set upon the southern flank of Graig-ddu, is nevertheless well worth seeking out if lonely, upland sites are your thang..... not only for the sublime views, but also for the shattered remnants of a cist matching those within the Cwm Bwchel cairn to the north. No doubt about this one, then.

According to Coflein:

‘A round cairn, 15m in diameter and 1.5m high, having a central cist, which has produced bone fragments and pottery sherds. (source Os495card; SO22NE14) J.Wiles 04.03.03’.

Despite bearing the (sadly far too common) scars of past years’ industrial activity Cwm Croesor remains a great place to be... in more ways than one. Morever it seems it has always been thus, a number of hut circles having been identified and logged by the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust in the immediate environs of the valley. The wonderfully shapely peak of Y Cnicht – the name apparently a reference to a knight’s helmet (there is indeed a resemblance from certain angles) – dominates to the north, presenting as fine a profile as you could ask for from the south-west. The equally substantial heights of Moelwyns Fawr and Bach form the southern flank, the village of Croesor perhaps the archetypal cure for insomniacs at the entrance to the cwm. Yeah, a good place to be for lovers of the Welsh landscape with an affinity for perhaps detecting the faint ‘echoes’ of those who came before...

Travellers in the mood for a walk through the cwm may be skillful/lucky enough to encounter one of the aforementioned hut circles near the northern bank of the Afon Croesor at SH63834537, that is opposite the prominent buildings of Croesor Fawr on the other side of the river. According to GAT this is:

‘near an old barn....a small but well defined hut circle on a platform.‘

Another hut circle, with associated field system, can be visited upon the ascent of Y Cnicht’s south-western ridge from Croesor itself (a highly recommended walk, but please take the usual precautions) at SH64034548. Again, GAT states:

‘On a shelf is a very well defined but with double orthostatic walling (sic). The hut is built on a shelf, with a built-up front, and the walling goes around the upper edge of the back scarp.‘

Sources: Smith, G., 1998, Hut Circle Settlement Survey; Bloor, G., 1985, Archaeology in Wales.

Unlike the great, domed summits and whaleback ridges of Y Carneddau, rising across the Ogwen Valley to the north, the chaotic, rocky heights of Y Glyderau are – to my knowledge – bereft of Bronze Age monuments. More’s the pity. Perhaps Bronze Age man did, indeed, bury his dead here, the remnants of cairn now unrecognisable, scattered within boulder fields created by the inexorable action of permafrost? Perhaps, but I think not... for what it’s worth, I reckon Nature had endowed these summits with striking monuments of her own so enigmatic that our forebears simply decided not to meddle with the status quo. Proto-temples....

First amongst these natural ‘monuments’ is surely Tryfan itself, the ‘three-peaked’ dragon back crowned by two perfect monoliths, to all the world placed by supernatural forces... OK, at least ‘super natural’. However there is another rock feature which is arguably even more striking, the prosaically named Castell y Gwynt.... ‘Castle of the Winds’. Rising between the main summits of Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr at 3,189ft (972m) this brutal, incredible tor of shattered rock formations seems to embody the very ‘essence’, the true spirit of whatever metaphysically-induced emotions us humans experience when upon the high places... a potent cocktail of fear, awe, wonder, elation, alacrity, fatigue... and a myriad others.

Thomas Pennant wrote in 1781: “Numerous groupes (sic) of stones are placed almost erect, sharp-pointed in sheafs: all are weather-beaten, time eaten and honey-combed, and of a venerable grey-colour. The elements seem to have warred against this mountain: rains have washed, lightnings torn, the very earth deserted it, and the winds have made it the constant object of their fury”.

The ‘battlements’ of Castell y Gwynt have withstood the assault to date – although the siege will, of course, be decided in favour of the inclemental elements one day – and stand overlooking a small stone circle set, half submerged, beside the shoreline of Llyn Cwmffynnon to the approx south. There are other monuments upon the floor of Dyffryn Mymbyr and gracing the surrounding hills beyond, not least a Bronze Age cairn upon Moel Siabod. It may therefore seem odd that Y Glyderau possesses such paucity. However I am inclined to think that was the whole point, the complete absence too obvious, intentional.... that this was, indeed, considered the realm of the gods.

Llyn Conwy is the primary source of the enigmatic river discharging into the Irish Sea between the medieval walled fortress town of Conwy and the ancient copper mines of the Great Orme... the ethereal upland lake (1,488ft) the temporary repository of the input of numerous small streams draining the Migneint boglands north of Penmachno. Great Bronze Age cairns crown the skyline peaks of Arenig Fach (Carnedd y Bachgen) and Arenig Fawr (Moel yr Eglwys) to the south-east, rising above what is surely one of North Wales’ most inhospitable landscapes when the not infrequent mists/rains sweep in.

The immediate environment of Llyn Conwy is endowed with several cairns of its own, two of which are cited by a local estate representative and the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (PRN 6047) as being of probable prehistoric origin [Latham, J., 1988, Ysbytty Estate; Smith,G., 2002, Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Monuments: West Conwy / North Gwynedd]. To my mind such provenance would not be surprising at the birthplace of a mighty river.

The cairn at SH77544579 is well placed upon Bryn Owen overlooking the south-western corner of the lake. Another is given at SH78554614 near the eastern shore.... however I assumed this to refer to the cairn upon the small island just within the lake at this point.... whether they are one and the same I therefore unfortunately cannot confirm.

Incidentaly GAT also mention a ‘possible’ prehistoric ring at SH77864713, that is a little below the summit of Pen y Bedw to the north:

‘U-shaped wall of piled stones just below the summit of Pen y Bedw. May be a prehistoric stone circle, such as a kerb cairn’. [Source: Smith,G., 2002, Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Monuments: West Conwy/North Gwynedd]

Archaeology aside, a visit to Llyn Conwy should, in my opinion, feature upon the itinerary of any traveller interested in the sacred landscapes of North Wales. River sources always have that ‘special atmosphere’ which mere words can never define. The lake would appear to be most easily approached via Llyn Cottage on B4407 (never tried this route), that is just east of the Pont ar Gonwy, where the fledgling river begins to gather form for the journey ahead. However I would recommend taking the public footpath leaving the (very) minor road near Haodfyredwydd to the west. It is possible to park a car a little south (uphill) of the latter. For awareness please note that this road, a favourite shortcut of locals, can be very intimidating / dangerous in poor conditions, the ground falling away very sharply to the floor of Cwm Hafodyredwydd below. I managed to just evade slithering over the edge one icy winter..... so please stay safe.