GLADMAN

This was, once upon a time, clearly a very substantial cairn – now, but a fragment remains. Guess this is what happens to things when there’s no political capital to be made by ostentatious ‘rebellion’. One can thus only assume there are ulterior motives to the latter? Shame on those who only see but a fragment themselves... of the much bigger picture.

The setting, nonetheless, is fine... incorporate within a circular walk taking in the great Rippon Tor cairns and Horridge Common. Too sad to contemplate on its own. In more ways than one.

Starting from the T-junction just SE of Cross Furzes, I furtively made my way across Lambs Down, ultimately bound for Gripper’s Hill. However, I elect to stick to the umbilical security of the obvious ‘Abbot’s Way’ in increasingly violent, driving rain to take stock and wait for the promised early afternoon hiatus of the storm. Anyway, upon beginning the descent to Brockhill Stream two hollow, grassy ‘mounds’ appear to my right, further investigation revealing elements of stone within the turfy mantle.

Sheltering within the upper of the pair from the horizontal downpour (if anything heading at 90 degrees can be said to be moving in a ‘downward motion’, that is) I decide these don’t resemble hut circles imo... although there are enough of them around these parts, to be sure... and the cairn featured upon the 1:25K map doesn’t fit with the location. So what is going on here?

However... interestingly, perhaps... it would appear from Pastscape that at approximately SX683660 (i.e hereabouts):

“Grinsell failed to locate in 1976 a cairn 35yds in circumference which was noted by Crossing”.

[Sources:
( 1a) by Brian Le Messurier 1965 Crossing’s guide to Dartmoor
( 1) Devon Archaeological Society proceedings
(L V Grinsell) 36, 1978 Page(s) 138.]

It does seem rather odd no-one (apart from perhaps the legendary William Crossing) has noticed these before. I’ve assigned a designation of ‘cairns’, pending further insight or subsequent removal. Thoughts, anyone?

In the absence of any other detail relating to the remains of this ring cairn – set a little to the south-west of Peek Hill’s summit and offering some excellent panoramic views – Devon and Dartmoor HER has this to say:

[National Monuments Record, 2019, Pastscape, 2007 survey data (Website). SDV362732].

“The heavily disturbed and robbed cairn occupies a high point on Peek Hill that offers an impressive 360 degree vista. The interior is composed of a confused spread of fragmentary rock slabs and boulders that gives the impression of quarrying disturbance. There are numerous leaning slabs but how many have been artificially erected is difficult to discern as some are clearly natural strata. Perhaps a rocky outcrop was cut away when the cairn was constructed. The central rather ragged rectangular pit is heavily disturbed probably the result of an unrecorded excavation. Surveyed and investigated at 1:2500 scale (citing Fletcher, M. J., 11/05/2007, English Heritage Field Investigation)”

Although ravaged, the substantial footprint and excellent placement of this cairn make it well worth incorporating within a short circular walk featuring the Sharpitor stone rows and cairn circle/cist. Hey, why not have a scramble upon Sharpitor itself as well?

PLEASE NOTE: Prospective visitors to Radnor Forest and its impressive round barrows should take care to ascertain the current restrictions applicable to the Harley Dingle military firing range following apparent expansion in the recent past. The below UKC link has details:

ukclimbing.com/forums/hill_talk/newly_prohibited_access_in_the_radnor_forest-694716

Stay safe.

According to Coflein (J.Wiles 27.08.02) this is:

“A prominently situated barrow, 18m in diameter and 1.5m high.”

I had intended to visit on 8/9/19 following an ascent of Great Rhos from Cwm Farm; however, I found that outing required everything I had in the energy tank.... no reserves. One for the future, perhaps.

In my opinion, this superbly located, powerful enclosure rates alongside the finest of Mid Walian hill forts. I passed by a few years ago but was – much to my subsequent chagrin – put off a visit by parking issues and the apparent unwelcoming local vibe. Well, not this time, my antiquarian friends.

According to Coflein the hill fort:

“...measures approximately 265m north-south by 120m east-west overall. It comprises a main inner enclosure formed of a strong rampart, ostensibly built of shale rubble and clay but with traces of stone revetment exposed in erosion features, together with traces of a stone capping on the summit of the rampart in the south-east part of the fort....Along the west side of the fort the rampart is far smaller in scale, being more of a scarp bank at the top of precipitous slopes....The hillfort is bivallate on the north, east and south sides where an outer rampart curves around to defend the more gentle slopes on this side....The hillfort has two entrances. The main gate on the south side is in-turned, and the right-hand (eastern) bastion is larger and more swollen than the western, suggesting it was perhaps a slinging platform or other defensive feature flanking the gate. On the north side is a smaller, less elaborate gateway which gives access down a steep slope to the outer terrace, suggesting it was never a main gate. A major break through the defences on the east side is modern.”

[T Driver. 7th Feb 2012]

It is possible to safely leave a car in a ‘layby’ upon the minor Dofor road just east of the farmhouse of Rhiw-gwraidd. A little further east a new gate upon the left allows access to a public footpath (unsignposted) climbing the very steep flank of the hillside to the north. The enclosure will be seen above and to the right and is accessed via the high fence line. Now, sure enough, as I took in the sweeping panoramas towards Pumlumon et al I was approached by the farmer in his 4x4. It transpired that he was baffled – if not annoyed – by my presence (hell, why would anyone be interested in a mere ‘sheep pen’?) but acquiesced as I  determined he is not the landowner, but tenant. Hey, there’s room for all right-thinking people to co-exist peacefully, methinks. Saves so much time and energy, don’t you think?

The shoreline of Loch Awe, one of The Highlands’ largest, most wondrous inland lochs, is blessed with some fabulously sited monuments: the chocolate box Kilchurn Castle at the extreme north-east, the peerlessly located Port Sonachan chambered cairn, Innis Chonnell, Archdonnell chambered cairn etc... In my opinion, the small fortified enclosure of Dun Toiseach, overlooking the extreme southwestern extremity of the loch, is very much in the same class. Yeah, the map suggested this would be a good way to end the day and Dun Toiseach did not disappoint. Neither did the notoriously fickle Scottish weather, for that matter.

Visitors approaching from the wonders – ha, now there’s an understatement – of Kilmartin Glen should take the minor road north from Ford and begin to skirt the ‘far’ bank of Loch Awe. In short order, Dun Toiseach will be seen crowning a rocky knoll rising above the small hamlet of Torran. It is by no means an extensive fortress, Canmore describing the site as:

‘a severely ruined dun measuring about 16m by 13m within a wall which has been some 4m thick. (Campbell and Sandeman 1964)’.

By all accounts the entrance was to the north-east of the D-plan enclosure. To be honest I reckon the ‘severely ruined’ status is, relatively speaking, a little unfair. I’ve seen a lot worse and enough remains to leave the visitor in no doubt that this would have been a tough little nut to crack for any raiding party. Worth the effort for the archaeology alone, perhaps? If not, just come for the views and that sense of being ‘somewhere else’, if you know what I mean?

[Notes from 19th Sept 2014... deleted at the time after causing a farcical furore but resurrected following a visit to the cairn surmounting nearby Trichrug at Easter]:

Carreg Cennen. An evocative name to the (somewhat protruding) ears of an Englishman first brought here by his father during 1983 (Cestyll ‘83, as I recall), a boy with a head filled with incoherent images of ‘something’ that perhaps existed before what was quickly becoming, to him, the childish fallacy of organised religion... the hymns we were forced to sing at school.... but took subconscious delight in defying. Even then. Something burning within, something subsumed deep in the folk memory. Ancient Britains. Not desert people. Christianity irrelevant.

I arrive today, in the pouring rain, with more than an eye on re-visiting the not so distant (incredibly undervalued) hill fort of Garn Goch. Do so if you can. Parking in the rather busy car park, I wonder if it is actually a good idea to revisit times past? Would the somewhat cynical mind of the 45 year old render the magical experience of the initiate superfluous? In short, er, no. I purchase my ticket and ascend the track to the fortress perched upon its eyrie. The medieval fortifications are easily retrieved from my psyche... their imprint seared upon my impressionable mind years ago. Not so the very attractive lady – with an idiosyncratic canine companion and perfect figure – engaged with capturing the vibe for posterity upon her DSLR. Pure class. Superlatives come as standard at Carreg Cennen, the mind thrown into overdrive, with carnal base thoughts vying for attention with those upon an altogether higher plane. Unfortunately, the words do not flow from my brain to the tongue in any coherent manner.... as usual.

So... a rather steep flight of steps descend to a dark passage – lit by loopholes – to access the entrance to (one of) the caves which permeate this carboniferous limestone crag. This is something special, however. Really special indeed. The rough-hewn steps vanish into a more-or-less unfathomable gloom below.... so careful now. The eyes adjust a little, revealing a medieval outer wall, fashioned into ‘pigeon holes’ to accommodate, well, pigeons – funnily enough – to supplement the castle food supply. Within, a naked gash within the cliff face represents the threshold beyond which a torch will be required. To be fair I’ve been here before, feeling my way to the cave’s terminus in utter darkness during the early 90’s. Forgot a torch. And humans so need to appreciate where they are going, do they not? Ok, appreciate, if not necessarily understand.

I’ve borrowed the Mam C’s torch today..... and advance down the narrow, undulating passage toward the very underworld itself. The thought that pre-Ice Age people were laid to rest within here, a proto-chambered tomb if ever there was one, blows my mind, the floor of the cave suddenly descending to afflict a stumble, walls as luminescent as marble, as apparently hydrated as a cascade, yet ironically dry to the touch. I reach the endpoint of the cave, my heart pounding as if in homage to New Order’s iconic Oberheim DMX drum machine, my breath clouding my vision as upon a sub-zero December morning, my camera lens overwhelmed with vapour. Here, upon the right-hand flank, has been fashioned a small pool of water, inexorably replenished from water dripping from the roof. I extinguish the torch and eat my lunch in utter darkness, struggling to comprehend how such sensual deprivation can have such an opposite effect?

The flanks of the cave are engraved with graffiti, some inspiringly celebrating love, some utter moronic bollocks. The human experience, then? The instinctive baseline and the sublime. I refrain from recording my passage, of course, leaving behind merely a trace of my exhaled carbon dioxide and spilt coffee. Well, distant ancestors were laid to rest here, it has to be said. I ponder for a while and suppose I can see the reason why. Yeah, this place is not really that different from the Pavilland Cave visited earlier this year. If I’m anything to go by, the perceptive visitor’s brain appears able to retrieve a fragment of what went before.... sorry, but I can’t articulate any more than that. So come and experience for yourself.

Thanks for the head’s up here to Carl. The overwhelming scale of the defences of this massive hill fort is not at first apparent owing to the overgrown nature of the site. OK, distant views are very limited; however when the flora includes the seasonal magnificence of bluebell carpets to complement sunlight filtering through the tree canopy... well, I can live with that.

Unlike Carl, I headed east along the northern flank with the towering multi-vallate banks to my left, prior to heading through the interior of the enclosure to the western entrance. This is pretty impressive, it has to be said, although not suggestive of any complex defensive features. I found the southern flank more difficult to interpret owing to brambles etc, but there you are.

Note that, upon crossing the mighty River Usk, via an impressive bridge, and locating Lodge Road.... I then struggled to identify Lodge Hill. For reference, this is the road opposite the hospital. Lodge Hill terminates at ‘The Paddocks’ where it is possible to park roadside. A private road accesses the church, the gate to the latter’s car park locked at the time of my visit. An old man tending the adjacent church garden appeared aghast that I had dared to stray from the path to view the ramparts. Always good to see how your loving Christian establishment welcomes all, isn’t it? Rather than confront I choose to simply ignore. Saves time.

Having been away from the hills since last October, a visit to this superbly sited cairn – following on from several hours at the magnificent Carnau’r Garreg Las to the south – is something to savour. A chance to breathe new life into a psyche run ragged in the interim by Brexit, right-wing nationalists, evil far left anti-semitism and the lunacy of Corbyn... not to mention the serious damage inflicted upon the cause of those who care for this planet by the self-righteously hypocritical, simplistic adolescents of ER. I really do despair. Hence the need for some solace. And this unfrequented corner of western Y Mynydd Du is as good a location to achieve this upon an Easter Monday as any I know of.

Positioned right upon the lip of the western escarpment edge below and to the north of the OS trig point surmounting Carreg Yr Ogof, the old red sandstone stone pile, contrasting sharply with the fragmented limestone landscape of the higher cairns, possesses a wondrously sweeping view toward a distant, iconic Carreg Cennen... not to mention numerous other upland cairns prominent upon their respective summits/ridges.

The calming influence is palpable, things seemingly put back into perspective. At least for a couple of hours. Hey, surely we can work things out, gain consensus through dialogue. Like adults. Can’t we? Following a sojourn at Carn y Gigfran the battery is recharged for another attempt.

As indicated, Carn y Gigfran can be incorporated within a visit to the superb Carnau’r Garreg Las if the traveller sees fit to approach from Cwm Sawdde to the north-west. It is possible to (carefully) leave a car by the crossroads at approx SN756228, south of Penmaen.

A pair of substantial, grassy round cairns gracing the southern apex of Mynydd Llanllwni. Coflein (J.Wiles 01.10.03) has their dimensions as:

Northern cairn:
“A much robbed & mutilated round cairn, 30m in diameter & 1.9m high, showing possible kerb stones on the N side...”

Southern cairn:
“A centrally mutilated round cairn, 21m in diameter & 1.6m high”

I approached from the minor road to approx southwest near the farm of Clyniau. Note that the cairns can not be seen from the road so I’d suggest a compass bearing would be a good idea in misty weather. Better safe than sorry.

Coflein has the dimensions of this substantial round cairn as:

“22m [c72ft] diameter and 1.6m [c5ft] high” (J.Wiles 01.09.04). It was excavated during 1907 (RCAHM 1917 (Carmarthenshire), 173 [519]), “when a second mound, was said to have been removed”. (source Os495card; SN53NW1)

At the time of posting note that the official roadside parking indicated upon the map is conspicuous by its absence... although technically possible upon the rough verge. Fortunately, I had opted to walk across Mynydd Llanllwni from the excellent Crugiau Giar cairns (c3.5 mile ‘round trip). There is the massive, albeit very denuded, circular footprint of another cairn to the north across the road.

This arguably rather incongruous monument stands just above the minor, gated road traversing the Lliw valley... yet is, as far as I could tell, not visible from it. Not mentioned on the current OS maps, it is, nonetheless, subject to CADW scheduling. According to Coflein:

“Remains of a small cairn situated on a saddle between two local promontories on a NW-SE aligned ridge. The cairn is circular in shape and measures c. 4.2m in diameter. It is shallow in profile and measures c. 0.65m tall”. (F.Foster/RCAHMW 02.10.2006)

Worth checking out in conjunction with the larger monument about a half mile to the NW below Foel Ystrodur Fawr.

Situated upon the lower south-western slopes of Pen yr Orsedd, the remains of this pretty substantial cairn offers a pretty good vibe for travellers willing to search it out, the only disturbance likely to be the occasional 4x4 muppet upon the nearby track. According to CPAT it represents a:

“Sub-circular cairn, 10.0m N/S x 11.0m E/W x 0.6m high. Appears to show signs of robbing. Situated on terrace above moderate N facing slope. (Hankinson 1994)”

Again according to CPAT, there is what might be a ‘possible cist’ at SH89155519. Not too sure, myself. Having said that, I located another ‘cisty’ looking stone arrangement... so who knows? Why not go and have a look?

I approached from the approx south-east where parking is available upon the verge of the A543 at Bwlch Gwyn. A little soggy, but there you are.

This enigmatically placed cairn first came to my attention only two years ago, perusing the map whilst gazing across the valley from the excellent Craig Rhiwarth hill fort. As it transpired a slog to the curious (ancient?) summit cairn of Glan-hafon last year accorded a further opportunity to ponder a visit. Simple things....

So... upon traversing the wild heather moor from Y Bala, the B4391 descends, in an appropriately dramatic fashion, to the village of Llangynog. Crossing the Afon Eirth a right turn accesses a dead-end minor road heading toward Cwm Rhiweirth. Easy parking is to be had just before the house at Glan-yr-Afon whereupon a short walk northward brings the traveller to the Nant Buarth Glas, a field gate on the left between houses accessing a public footpath (the gate secured with string in such a farcical manner as to require me to climb the thing). It is then a case of utilising said path, following the arrows, so to speak, to the point where it meets the main bridleway heading south. Now since the somewhat overbearing crags of Craig Ty-glas are those towering above to the west, it is necessary to ignore the bridleway and look for a copse of (larch?) trees, within which you’ll locate a track – well, sort of – heading steeply uphill to the left of the tumbling stream.

The cairn, bearing obvious elements of a former cist, not to mention kerbing, enjoys panoramic views across to the mighty Craig Rhiwarth. Worth the effort.

Set above and to the approx west of the now derelict farmstead of Lluest Abercaethon, this round barrow, not mentioned upon the 1:50K OS map, is depicted as a ‘Mound’ upon the latest 1:25K.

Coflein has no such reservations regarding classification. A round barrow it is... and I concur. Dimensions are:

“Average 15m in diameter x approx 2m high . Slight hollow in area of centre, in part made by OS datum post, still present (RSJ 2000).”

Note that the ‘OS datum post’ was conspicuous by its absence.

The ancient fortifications delimiting the c984ft by c361ft ‘lost world’ plateau of Duchary Rock present the visitor with fabulous vistas across Loch Brora and the surrounding landscape... in addition to some pretty substantial archaeological remains at the north-western and south-eastern extremities. Steep natural defences – particularly to the east – more-or-less negate the need for artificial defences elsewhere.

Although inevitably damaged by shepherds in search of shelter for their flocks across the ages, these collapsed dry stone walls were once apparently nearly some 13ft wide (according to “Exploring Scotland’s Heritage – The Highlands’ [1995]) the more impressive northern possessing an entrance lined with upright stone slabs. Incidentally there is a similar arrangement at the great Brigantes stronghold surmounting Ingleborough, way down south in The Yorkshire Dales. There would appear to be some debate regarding the ancestry of the narrow entrance currently to be seen to the south.... perhaps a proto-postern gate for light foot traffic only?

My assumption is that Duchary Rock is most easily attained by way of a rough track ascending the hillside from the south-east. However I arrived from the fabulous Carrol broch to the north; it would be a pity not to take a look at both sites whilst in the area, methinks?

This exquisite little cist, set within the remains of a grassy cairn, is not mentioned upon the current 1:50k OS map. Consequently it came as a surprise to discover that Esgair Irfon, the rocky, eastern flank of the wondrous Irfon valley, possessed an ancient monument when perusing the 1:25k version obtained from a library sell off. A pleasant surprise, it has to be said. According to the RCAHMW:

“..Bronze Age Cist Cairn. Central cist exposed in centre of a slight mound. Four hewn slabs (0.18m thick) line the sides of the cist, the base is overgrown with grass. Mound Diameter 4m, Cist Length 1m, Width 0.5m, Depth 0.5m.” [J.BONSALL, NT, 20/07/2002].

To my mind this excellent site is one of the obscure prehistoric gems of Mid Wales. The surrounding scenery is first class, the monument set back from the escarpment edge (in true Bronze Age style) so it can not be seen from below, the sentinel peak of Cwmdeuddwr, Drygarn Fawr, crowning the horizon to the approx north-east. Prospective visitors should, however, note that such visual splendour comes at the price of a very steep ascent from the road traversing the Irfon valley below. But there you are. Well worth the effort. For what it’s worth I approached from the direction of Abergwesyn, parking in the layby near the National Trust sign and heading uphill to the left (north) of the treeline.

This enigmatically located cairn sits upon Esgair Garn overlooking the extreme eastern limit of Llyn Brianne. The monument is liberally ‘sprinkled’ with quartz....

According to Coflein (OS 1977) it is:

“..15.9 m in diameter and 0.9 m high at the centre, where a modern cairn adds 0.6 m of height. It is noteworthy that the majority of the stones forming the cairn appear to have originally been particularly selected for their varying quartz content. An obvious outcrop of this material was not observed in the immediate area around the cairn”.

It is possible to park upon the verge of the minor road forced to make a major loop around the reservoir, where upon a short scramble to the east will allow the traveller to contemplate the significance of quartz at close quarters. Intriguing.

Guess it’s somewhat of a cliché to state that those with the loudest voices very often have the least to say. Nevertheless – in my opinion – it’s true. Suffice to note I’m therefore not a fan of Noel Gallagher’s little brother. Or, as it happens, rappers spouting platitudes which merely highlight perceived moral and intellectual shortcomings. Yeah, class will speak for itself. A bit like, from an archaeological perspective at least, the silence which pervades the sprawling mass of Mynydd-y-glog.

Situated in the transitional ‘no man’s land’ between the seriously compromised industrial valleys and the beautiful, wild uplands of Fforest Fawr and, furthermore, rising to a perfunctory 1,277ft, Mynydd-y-glog must’ve sacked its tourist liaison officer years ago. Nothing to do. In fact one may well be tempted to ask why anyone would want to come here? It is a question well worth asking, however, particularly should one have an interest in the human story of what is now South Wales. For here, upon these unassuming slopes, sits a quite magnificent collection of Bronze Age upland cairns. According to RCAHMW [David Leighton, 2/9/2011]:

“...Eight round cairns lie in positions locally elevated to a greater or lesser degree. All have been disturbed... Around these lie a further eight round cairns, likewise disturbed.. A ‘simple’ ring cairn lies on a terrace on the north-west, and on the south... is a low circular mound, only faintly visible, with a gently dished interior suggesting perhaps a more elaborate ring is concealed here. Both are undisturbed... On the north side of the mountain are cairnfields and traces of settlements and field systems which extend across Pant Sychbant and Cwm Cadlan, areas which also contain sepulchral monuments. Cairnfields can also be found on the west side of the mountain...”

So, 18 monuments... with more potentially subsumed within the peat? Whatever, far too many to list individual characteristics here. Instead I’d recommend the curious Citizen Cairn’d contemplates a field visit. Take the Cwm Cadlan road exiting the A4059 at Penderyn and, shortly after a sharp right, follow a public footpath heading beyond the farm of Wernlas to ascend toward the summit of the hill, the latter crowned by an OS trig pillar. And quite a bit else.

Black Hill was never high on my list of ‘must visit soon’ sites upon Dartmoor. In retrospect.. and with the unforgiving clarity of hindsight... that statement is rather odd, to say the least. But there you are. Seeing is believing, as they say. In fact it was the only the mention of ‘stone row’ – that genre of monument archetypal of these bleak, windswept uplands – upon the map that, eventually, brought me within striking distance. That old devil called Curiosity did the rest, bless it to bits. Never been much of a fan of the felis catus anyway.

Arguably the easiest approach to the summit plateau is from the minor road traversing Trendlebere Down to the north-east.. hey, from the stone row itself, perhaps? If so, a pair of cairns will be encountered upon the initial spur [detail from Field Investigators Comments F1 NVQ 19-APR-60]:

SX 76277895 – a ‘tumulus’ which “is a cairn 0.4 m. high, mutilated in the top.”

SX 76297898 – “another cairn with a maximum height at the rim of 0.5m with a probable retaining stone in the west. The centre of the cairn has been dug out ”

The summit of Black Hill lies some way to the approx south and is crowned by a further trio (count ‘em) of substantial cairns:

SX 76157872 – “This is a cairn 0.6 m. high, mutilated by a hollow, 12.0 m. wide and 0.5 m. deep, in the top”

SX 76167862 – “A cairn, badly mutilated, particularly in the north west quadrant. It has an average height of 0.7 m.”

SX 76217859 – “with a few retaining stones visible in the circumference”

Hey, I liked it here.... a nice, if somewhat dishevelled monument located some way off the main track for a little privacy to chill out... and with expansive, sweeping views toward Yellowmead and north to Down Tor. According to Pastscape:

“...the stony mound is 5.9m in diameter and about 0.4m high with some kerb slabs and boulders in situ. The apparently off-centre cist measures 1.8m by 0.9m internally and 0.4m deep; one large, leaning slab, probably the displaced coverstone measures 1.1m by 0.8m.” [Fletcher M 03-JUL-1999 English Heritage Field Investigation]

And apparently:

“An attempt was made to restore the cist shortly before 1929 ... Stone cutters were responsible (sic) for at least part of the damage as one of the loose slabs bears the marks of the masons’ tools.... The structure may be one of those rare burial cairns covering two cists. Around the base of the mound a few stones remain of an outer ring.” [Butler, J. 1994. Dartmoor Atlas of Antiquities: Vol. 3, p. 70 3 Page(s)70]

This is an excellent cist – although unfortunately without the cap stone – located to the north of, but as far as I can recall without a view of, the great Drizzlecombe Complex.

Now, given that travellers to the latter may well be tempted to push on to Langcombe Brook – and perhaps even the wondrous Grim’s Grave? – I’d suggest, for what it’s worth, leaving this beauty for a much more leisurely little horseshoe walk also taking in the Eylesbarrow South West cist at SX58696784?

According to Pastscape:

“A well preserved cist with two sidestones and two end stones.... Internally it measures 0.9m by 0.6m and a maximum 0.65m deep. It is oriented north-west/south-east and its top is 0.25m above g.s.l.;there is no trace of a coverstone. A vague stoney spread around the structure, some 4.0m in diameter, may represent vestiges of a cairn.” [Fletcher M 13-AUG-1999 English Heritage Field Investigation]

Corndon Tor is an elongated north-south ridge rising to a summit at either end, that to the south – the higher at c1,453ft (443m) – crowned by a small granite tor girdled by the probable remains of a large cairn... a ‘tor cairn’ if you will. According to Pastscape [Newman, P 14-MAR-2008 EH Archaeological Field Investigation]:

“SX 6859 7415 – Stones Piled around the base of the outcrop may be remains of cairn which has been much disturbed...very spread and fragmentary The cairn overlies a reave which runs up to the tor.....Maximum diameter 27.2m.”

A little to the north sits a massive round cairn:

“SX 6858 7422 – ...constructed from moorstone with a truncated cone profile and no turf cover. The top of the cairn has suffered some interference and is uneven and hollows have been dug into the south-east side fairly recently. Max height 2m and the cairn has a maximum diameter of 27.5m.”

Some distance beyond two further massive round cairns surmount the northern summit. Hey, I defy any Citizen Cairn’d to resist the temptation to wander over to have a closer look. Again, according to Newman:

The eastern of the pair [SX 6867 7476] is “... over 2m high with a flattish top surface which has been badly disturbed by recent building of shelters... A reave, part of the Dartmeet system, touches the cairn tangentially on the west side but is not covered by it.”

The western [SX 6857 7472] represents “A mound of loose stone over 2m high in places. Upper surface extensively disturbed and undulating cuased (sic) by interference, including recent shelter building.”

So... unfortunately these great cairns appear to have suffered greatly at the hands of idiot criminals creating ‘muppet shelters’ out of the fabric for no defensible reason – let’s face it, we are not exactly miles from the nearest road here – so vandalism it is, plain and simple. However my understanding is that conservation work has been undertaken (following Newman’s observations) by the combined talents of the Dartmoor National Park Authority, the Dartmoor Preservation Association and English Heritage. So keep an eye out for the criminal element and send them packing. Well, if you really need to shelter from the elements upon Corndon Tor I’d suggest it’s high time you stopped letting mummy dress you.

According to the Aldbourne Heritage Centre this, in my opinion, quite superb example of a bowl barrow... complete with enigmatic little tree upon the summit... is:

“..set below the crest of a steep west- facing slope in an area of undulating chalk downland. The barrow mound is 3m high and 23m in diameter. Surrounding the mound is a ditch c.3m wide from which material for the mound was quarried. This has filled in over the years and now survives as a buried feature visible as a ring of darker earth on the east and north sides of the mound. The site was partially excavated by Canon Greenwell, a prolific excavator of barrows, between 1885 and 1890. Finds included the cremated remains of an adult set in a cist, or stone-lined box, and covered by a cairn. The cremation was accompanied by a bronze dagger and bone pin.”

Located a little under a mile to the approx north-west of the justly celebrated ‘Four Barrows’, I reckon this massive monument, with sweeping views across to the ‘Giant’s Grave’, is due a lot more celebration in it’s own right.

More from the Aldbourne Heritage Centre here:
aldbourneheritage.org.uk/village-history/aldbourne-timeline/prehistory-aldbourne/aldbourne-barrows

Pastscape has this:

“A Bronze Age bowl barrow.... was excavated by Greenwell in the 1880’s who found a cremation and a flint flake. The mound is visible standing to a height of 1.8m and the ditch of 20m in diameter is of 0.3m in depth.”

Grassy cairn below and to the approx south-west of much more upstanding cairns gracing Allt-Lwyd, outlier of Idris’s domain. The monument is passed by visitors approaching the hill from the terminus of the minor road at Cae’r Mynach.

Unfortunately Coflein currently has no detail aside from assigning a Bronze Age ancestry.

Extract from Cadw Schedule descripton:

“Burial cairn probably Bronze Age, situated within open moorland below and to the N. of the Cras ridge of crags on the north-facing slopes of Moel Wnion. Stone built and circular in plan, measuring c. 10m in diameter and up to 0.6m in height. There are several hollows visible in its centre. F.F. 10/02/2004”.

OK, the dominating power lines are a little, ahem, distracting... however as a bonus site for those making a pilgrimage to Cras and/or Moel Wnion, the site is nevertheless of interest.

Chipping Hill is the site of a bivallate earthwork, traces of which remain (apparently, since I could not clearly identify them myself) beneath the modern buildings which now occupy the area.

Reputably the location of a Saxon burh built by Edward The Elder, pottery associated with the outer defences has yielded a Mid Iron Age date... so it would seem we are looking at a case of progressive site adaptation here.

It was the coming of the railway which, while cutting through the rampart during construction of the viaduct in 1850, ironically shed conclusive light upon a prehistoric presence upon the hilltop: the discovery of three burials with Iron Age La Tene II-III pokers. That’ll do.

Pastscape has details at:

heritagegateway.org.uk/Gateway/Results_Single.aspx?uid=MEX26167&resourceID=1001

There are four cairns collectively forming a cemetery upon Banc Ystrad-Wen, the finest of which (in my opinion) is the western-most at SN97956147. According to Coflein it represents the remains of a “Cairn, 13.1m in diameter and 0.75m high, at which a kerbing of boulders about the W and SW sides have been observed.” J.Wiles 23.04.02. So, although not that upstanding in profile, this is nevertheless a significant stone pile mirroring similar monuments upon the north-eastern ridge of Y Gamriw across the cwm.

The next in stature, located at SN98236156, has been vandalised by an internal ‘shelter’ which (as with Carn-y-Geifr crowning Drum Ddu to the approx north-west) I reckon may be for sheep.. at least those of Ovis aries, as opposed to the human variety. Again, J Wiles reckons it is a “Mutilated cairn, 10.4m in diameter and 0.6m high, having had a shelter constructed in, and of it, to the NW of centre.”

The remaining two monuments of the group are much smaller, located at SN98136150 “4.9m in diameter and 0.3m high” and SN98156153 “A partly scattered cairn, 4.3m in diameter and 0.45m high”.

Although – needless to say – I didn’t heed my own advice (approaching, via Carn Wen, having made a ludicrously tiring, vertical ascent of Trembyd from the north) I would suggest the best way to reach these cairns is via the Rhiw Llanwrthl, accessed at the terminus of the minor road heading south from the village following the Wye.

Not too sure what to make of this, to be fair. Lured by the promise of ‘Cairn Circles’ upon the 1:25k map, I first had to negotiate the rather bizarre, ‘banjo duelling’ antics of the local farmer and helpers who appeared to wish to stare me down, for some reason or other... which needless to say only made me determined not to be intimidated. Bring it on. There is no excuse for a lack of basic courtesy.

Anyway, as for ‘Cairn Circles’, I found none, the Coflein record reflecting more-or-less what I did encounter:

“A distinct semi-circular ditch runs from the boundary wall enclosing an area approximately 30m in diameter. The ditch is about 1m wide by up to 0.2m- 0.4m deep. It may be all that is left of the outer bank and ditch. Along the arc of the ditch are at least two cairns seen as exposed earthfast stones. The central area contains numerous low earthfast stone mounds and banks.” OAN Site Visit 2002/05/24/NW

A visit to this otherwise unremarkable cairn – if the final resting place of a forebear can ever be described as such, of course – is enlivened by what appeared to me to be clear remnants of a former cist and kerb. It would seem the OS people tentatively concur:

“A denuded cairn, 6.0m in diameter and 0.5m high, with possible cist elements and kerbing.” J.Wiles 15.08.02

Situated upon the southern end of Mynydd Llangorse’s whaleback summit ridge there are some fine views to be had of surrounding peaks, not to mention the excellent hill fort occupying Allt Yr Esgair across the way.

This is a deceptively substantial upland cairn which, to my mind, should be taken as a pair with the splendidly sited ‘Blaneau-draw’ monument a little way to the ENE. Indeed, an approach from Cwm Sorgwm, via the latter, makes for a grand hill walk with some excellent views. I was able to park upon the verge just south-east of the farm access road’s junction with the ‘main road’ through the cwm (which, incidentally, is a good starting point for an ascent of Mynydd Troed’s cairn).

Anyway, according to Coflein what we have here is:

“A mutilated cairn, 23m in diameter and 1.8m high, surmounted by a modern cairn. Set on the crest of a mountain ridge, on the boundary between two communities”. [J.Wiles 15.08.02]

I more-or-less quite literally stumbled across this cairn, exquisitely perched upon the very edge of the escarpment overlooking the farm of Blaneau-draw, Cwm Sorgwm, whilst heading for the cairn at SO16562612. Indeed, since it is not annotated upon either the current 1:50k or 1:25k OS map, I assumed the larger monument had been mis-represented. Suffice to say it has not.

CPAT offers a little clarity:

“About 350 m W.S.W. from..” [SO16562612].. “410 m above O.D. on a terrace 15 m below the ridge top is a small Old Red Sandstone, badly disturbed, flat mound about 7 m in diameter 0.6 m high”. [Roese, Thesis, no. 166. RCAHMW, 1995]

So, structurally speaking, not the finest Bronze Age upland cairn you’ll ever encounter. But I hereby challenge anyone with a passion for the way the ever-changing light plays upon our uplands to not be moved by the placement of this beguiling pile of old stones.

The heavily overgrown remains of this chambered cairn lie in a roadside field opposite the little hamlet of Borgie – near a hotel catering for the sort of people seeking ‘Highland experiences’ whilst driving pristine 4x4s. You know the type. Judging by the extreme inertia of the field gate to movement it would appear few wish to view this monument any more. Which, in my view, is a pity since there is a real sense of the past co-existing easily with the present here, with the comings and goings of the folk occupying the houses opposite.

According to Canmore:

“At NC 6737 5940 situated prominently on the S side of a rocky out-crop is a severely robbed, chambered cairn. It is about 15.0m in diameter, with a maximum height of 0.6m in the centre; elsewhere the cairn is reduced to a stony rim and scattered stones. In the centre a chamber is indicated by two opposing earthfast boulders 1.1m apart and protruding up to 0.6m through the cairn material. OS (J B) 16/9/77”

This cairn (or cairns?) lies to the immediate left of the stony track from Dunbeath when approaching the buildings at Loedebest... and is therefore a ‘bonus site’ for travellers seeking a personal audience with the great chambered cairns upon/around Cnoc Na Maranaich. The situation is fine, overlooking the deep defile of Dunbeath Water, so well worth tarrying a short while.

To be honest I only positively identified one cairn here, which did not appear to have any internal structure... at least nothing surviving in situ. Consequently the following Canmore record is intriguing:

“A: At ND 1394 3171 is a small cairn, some 5.0m in diameter and 0.6m high. A cist formed by three stone slabs is exposed in the centre.
B: At ND 1397 3174, cut by the road, a circular, turf-covered mound, approximately 13.0m in diameter and 1.0m high, composed of stone, is possibly a cairn. OS (R L) 14/3/68.

Cairn ‘A’ is as described. The cist is exposed to 0.9m long E-W by 0.4m wide and 0.2m deep. The cairn has an edging slab in the N. Mound ‘B’ is also as described. It is unquestionably a cairn.” OS (J M) 17/8/82.

In retrospect the cairn images I’ve posted perhaps represent ‘Cairn B’. But what of the other?

This is an unassuming, seemingly inviolate cairn set upon a craggy hill side a little to the north-west of the Kylesku bridge, the latter carrying the A894 across the meeting of Loch a’ Chairn Bhain with Loch Glencoul to the north and, to my mind, a rather graceful, aesthetically pleasing structure in its own right. The scenery is archetypal west coast, the fine peaks of Quinag applying the pièce de résistance to the approx south.

According to Canmore: “A well-preserved cairn, 15.5m in diameter, maximum height 1.7m. It is considerably mutilated, but otherwise undisturbed; there is no evidence of a chamber.” OS (W D J) 21/4/61 and (N K B) 22/80.

Incidentally don’t forget to visit the nearby broch (just the other – southern – side of the road) and, if time and circumstances permit, take a boat trip along Loch Glencoul to gawp at Eas a’ Chual Aluinn, Scotland’s highest waterfall. No less.

In my opinion this is a particularly well – nay, evocatively – sited monument boasting some quite exquisite views across the loch to the peaks of Quinag.

Canmore reckons what we have here represents the remains of a “Probable solid-based broch”.. [as opposed to galleried dun as previously thought]... “situated near the end of a rocky promontory or islet in the large sea loch Loch a’ Chairn Bhain; the site is connected to the shore by a causeway made of boulders about 21m (70ft) long, 3m (10ft) wide and 60cm (2ft) high. The islet is now only cut off at high tide” (E W MacKie 2007).

Well worth stopping off upon the drive up/down the north-western coast in conjunction with the nearby Kylestrome cairn at NC21883426.

At c1,722ft Llethr Brith is a reasonably hefty hill for Mid Wales and, in my opinion, well worth a visit in its own right simply for some excellent views toward Teifi Pools, Cwmdeuddwr and, as it happens, Pen y Bannau hill fort. That it is crowned by a substantial, if somewhat vandalised Bronze Age cairn is, as they say, a bonus.

A dead-end minor road heads east from the B4343 at Ffair-Rhos allowing punters access to the shores of the aforementioned Teifi Pools. Just after some enclosed fields to one’s left a path can be discerned ascending the hillside... follow this and ‘up’ is the only real direction needed, to be fair.

According to the OS the cairn, sharing the summit with a lonely little tarn is:

“A round cairn, 14m in diameterb & 0.5m high, having a modern marker cairn set upon its E side.” J.Wiles 26.07.04

According to the wondrous Audrey Henshall (1963) this represents “The heavily-robbed remains of this round, stalled cairn of Orkney-Cromarty type are 80ft in diameter”

Whereas the (equally great doing their thang) Ordnance Survey reckoned the following one year later:

“This turf-covered chambered cairn, 1.6m maximum height and approximately 26.0m in diameter, has been mutilated by an excavation trench in the NE. The top has been robbed revealing seven stone slabs forming the stalls of a gallery grave and two portal stones are in the SE corner of the cairn.” (N K B) 13/11/64

Worth a wander over when visiting the mighty long cairns upon nearby Cnoc Freiceadain.

This pleasingly wooded promontory fort is, according to Surrey Archaeological Society,“a roughly trapezoidal enclosure with the long axis lying north-east/south-west. The position of the earthworks is governed by the shape of the end of the ridge except where their north-eastern leg cuts perpendicularly across the length of the ridge. This north-eastern leg of the ramparts contains the entrance which is set off-centre towards the north-west, and has short out-turned banks on either side”.

Details of a 2008/2009 survey undertaken by the Society can be seen online at:
surreyarchaeology.org.uk/content/hascombe-hillfort-survey

Excellent little cliff fort – one of a linear chain gracing this Glamorgan coastline – overlooking Traeth Bach and most easily reached by a footpath from the minor road to the approx east. Note that it’s possible to park a car near the junction with the Tre-pit Road (a little west of Wick).

Protected by the steep defile of Cwm Bach to the north and vertiginous cliffs to the west, artificial defences are only really required elsewhere.

According to Coflein:

“Two discrete lengths of bank, ditched on the SE, the northernmost c.40m NE-SW by 10m and 2.0m high, the other c.33.5m NE-SW by 8.5m and 1.5-2.6m high, truncated on the SW, together appear to define the SE side of a roughly triangular enclosure, resting on an eroding cliff-line on the SW and defined by scarps above the Cwm Bach on the N. Air photos suggest that the southern rampart segment continues N of entrance gap, behind line of the north rampart.” J.Wiles 26.01.04

Ffridd Bryn Dinas (’Ffridd’ might be described as being the transitional zone between traditional Welsh upland and lowland) is an interesting, relatively minor ridge overlooking Cwm Maethlon – ‘Happy Valley’ – boasting some excellent, sweeping views across the Dyfi for (arguably) limited effort. Not to mention the opportunity to gawp at a certain bearded lake. I ask you?

It also possesses two Bronze Age monuments. According to Coflein:

“Originally (1921) this site was reported as two tumuli, with another reported near-by, all three having cists. Subsequently they were differentiated as a round barrow (SN63989969) and a cairn (SN63869959), with the third not located.” J.Wiles 30.01.02

For what it’s worth I agree with the above succinct statement. To a point. The north-eastern ‘tumulus’ is, for me, the finer of the pair, a steep sided mound just north of a traverse wire fence bearing the clear remains of a cist upon, or rather within, the summit. A great spot to recline for awhile with the low autumn sun playing upon the nearby llyn. The other, to the approx south-west, has much less ‘tumulus’, but much more cist still in situ.

But what of ‘the third not located’? Could that not be what I took to be a cairn with remains of cist upon the bwlch between Bryn Dinas and Allt Gwyddgwion?

This cairn... featuring what I took to be remnants of a cist within... sits between Bryn Dinas and Allt Gwyddgwion (’No shit, Sherlock!’ I hear you exclaim), the latter the elongated south-western ridge of the wondrously be-cairned Trum Gelli. As such, be sure to pay a visit if heading for the western Tarrens, the monument a little to the right of the path – such as it is – when approaching from the main green track traversing these parts.

Coflein gives the dimensions thus:

“The cairn is 2 metres in diameter and 0.6 metres high. See survey report Tywyn Dolgoch, by M.J. Roseveare, ArchaeoPhysica Ltd.” RCAHMW, 14/12/2007

This fort, crowning the summit of Barone Hill, possesses a fabulous overview of Bute and must have been of great strategic importance back in the day.

According to Canmore:

“..It comprises the remains of an oval stone wall (enclosing an area 62.0m NE-SW by 42.0m) with an outer stone wall on the W and S whilst rocky precipitopus (sic) slopes form an additional defence on the E.

The oval wall survives on the W and S where it is 3.0m wide and up to 1.0m high with many facing stones in situ but there are only faint traces of it on the E. The entrance, though not apparent, was most probably at the 4.0m gap on the S side, which is now utilized by the modern wall. There is no evidence of the vitrification mentioned by Hewison.....” OS (TRG) 23/11/76

This is a pretty substantial chambered cairn hidden away, in light woodland, to the left of a driveway/track accessing equestrian buildings from the A836. Not wishing to look around incognito in such an environment, I duly announced myself at the – to judge by the voices – clearly occupied house... but to no avail. I therefore checked out the monument anyway.

Although overgrown and sylvan, the large cairn possesses a clear chamber... not to mention an evocative, wistful vibe.

According to Canmore: “This Orkney-Cromarty Cairn measures 21m in diameter and 0.9m in height. A polygonal chamber lies to the E of the centre of the cairn.” RCAHMS November 1977.

There is at least another cairn sited a little north, not to mention what, to my mind, are the remains of a fantastically sited hill fort upon Struie Hill to the south. Great views from that ‘un.

Canmore reckons the evocative remains of this chambered cairn located within Tongue Wood are:

“...about 15m in diameter. The kerb of boulders survives intermittently, best preserved in the east and south. Several boulders within the kerb form no intelligible pattern.” OS (JD) 26/4/60 and (ISS) 1/7/71

This is a great place to chill out for a while... but surprisingly difficult to locate (perhaps it was just me) if approaching steeply downhill from the A865, such has been the reclamation by Nature. In retrospect keep the tumbling stream to your left and the monument occupies a rise a little before Tongue House.

Yet another monument with remains of cist (most probably) still in situ. The cairn occupies a superb position overlooking the serpentine River Naver.... including an aerial view of the Achcheargary chambered cairn on the other side of the B871. Canmore has this to say:

“This cairn, at the edge of a natural shelf overlooking the plain of the River Naver, measures about 13.0m diameter and 1.2m maximum height, but the west part has been robbed to build adjoining walls. Where the cairn rubble has been cleared north of the centre, a slab edge 0.6m long and aligned NE-SW is exposed; it is probably the remains of a cist”. OS (J M) 25/6/77

Canmore has this to say about this trio of excellently sited cairns easily overlooked in the company of the great Skelpick Long and Coille Na Borgie monuments; easily, but, in my opinion, unfairly so:

“Three closely grouped cairns (’A’-’C’) centred at NC 718 598 on the summit of a ridge overlooking the mouth of Strathnaver.

‘A’ the most southerly.. is about 10.5m in diameter and due to the slope is 2.0m high in the west, but of negligible height on the upper east side. The interior has been disturbed in places, but no cist or chamber is apparent. In common with the other cairns there is no evidence of a kerb.

‘B’ is situated above a small rocky slope. It measures approximately 17.0m east-west by 12.0m and stands to 2.1m high. War-time work has seriously mutilated the cairn on the east side and especially in the centre, where a wall face 2.1m high has been constructed.

‘C’ ... measures approximately 9.0m east-west by 8.0m and stands up to 1.4m high on the west side. Three slabs protruding up to 0.4m through the cairn material suggests this is possibly chambered; their poitions may indicate they are the back slab and possibly two portal stones of an Orkney-Cromarty chamber”. OS (JB) 18/12/78

Visitors to the Achcoillenaborgie broch might, therefore, consider a visit... if so, the cairns grace the hillside to the left when facing away from the road.

Canmore has this to say about this unexpectedly captivating kerbed cairn, set near the beguiling Loch Caladail:

“On a rise, a cairn 10.7m overall diameter and 0.8m high, partly robbed but not deep enough to expose a cist. Six boulders (two displaced) of the kerb survive in the SE arc. The rest of the kerb has been removed, leaving a trench 0.7m wide by 0.3m deep in which the boulders were embedded.” [OS (W D J) 5/4/60 and (I S S) 22/7/71]

The monument can be seen from the summit stone grouping of Cnoc na Moine...