GLADMAN

Gwynedd Archaeological Trust records (PRN 2787) note the following regarding this scheduled prehistoric settlement, dramatically sited beneath the southern flank of Mynydd Mawr, the spectacular crags of Craig y Bera:

‘The monument stands in traditional upland sheep pasture, on a level terrace beneath Mynydd Mawr in the Nantlle valley, close to the 18th and 19th century copper workings at Drws-y-coed.

The settlement includes at least five circular huts dating from the IA or RB period and is particularly well-preserved. Some stone has been taken to build the sheepfold nearby but three of the huts remain clearly visible and another two are readily identified. The foundations of further huts could survive below present ground level. Stony banks and lines of boulders define small field plots or paddocks associated with the settlement. The site therefore, represents an almost complete example of a settlement of this date and has a high archaeological potential. The possibility that the site was associated with early exploitation of the known copper course nearby enhances its importance.‘

Source: Cadw, 1992, Scheduling Info Cn209

Y Garn, north-eastern terminus of the wondrous Nantlle Ridge, rises above to the south, crowned by two massive Bronze Age cairns (incidentally Mynydd Mawr also possesses a large monument of this type). To the west the Afon Drws-y-Coed flows through Dyffryn Nantlle toward Llyn Nantlle Uchaf, where Richard Wilson once set up his easel; to the east stands Yr Eryri itself – the Snowdon Massif. Quite a spot to make your home, then.

The Gwynedd Archaelogical Trust have identified a hut circle located.... well..... exquisitely upon the lower northern flank of Trum y Ddysgl (The ‘Ridge of the Dish’) a summit of the wondrous Nantlle Ridge (in the interests of objectivity, note that I am somewhat biased here.... ). The site does not lie upon any generally used line of access to the summits; hence I haven’t visited myself. But what an utterly extreme place to live, bringing to mind comparisons with the hut circle above Gwern Gof Isaf, east of Tryfan herself. Furthermore, note the placement of the Gelli Ffrydiau hill fort across the cwm. Were the two sites occupied concurrently – and if so, why? The relevant GAT PRN is 6607:

‘A hut circle, c.11m in diameter, located on a small ridge with excellent views eastwards along the Nantlle Valley. The site consists of low (0.3m high) wide stony banks, no entrance is visible although the site is partly obscured by rushes. The remains of a possible enclosure wall runs off from the hut circle to the SE. At the SE end of this there may be a small sub-rectangular feature (c.2m x 2m). There are two post-medieval drainage ditches, one just below the hut and one above it‘

Source: Jones, S., 1996

Note that an ascent via Y Garn to the east would engender a visit to two very substantial Bronze Age cairns en route... as well as much else. But please... please.... take great care when negotiating the crags of Mynydd Drws-y-Coed.

Located to the north of the wondrous Y Cnicht... so named because it was said to resemble a knight’s helmet from a certain angle... this, the ‘Bird Lake’, is arguably one of the most ‘vibey’ upland llyns in all Snowdonia, set at an altitude of 1,886ft. Travellers are – to my knowledge – few and far between here, only the occasional ‘loner’ heading toward the even more splendid Llyn Edno, where seagulls are, it seems, apt to ‘dive bomb’ visitors venturing too close to the nest. This man, however, is not as ‘enlightened ’ as he may like to think... sure, the vision of the multiple summits of Ysgafell Wen rising above the far shore, the latter reflected in the still waters, brings a lump to my throat. But nevertheless I am ignorant of the existance of a cist beneath the far crag across the placid surface; not to mention that of an (apparent) monolith – now fallen – upon the minature islet set within the lake. Yeah, by all accounts there are local ‘eye witness reports’ affirming it once stood erect. There is even an apparent hut circle to the east at SH66604810. ‘OK, but since you blundered past like a tit in a trance, overwhelmed by the landscape, where is the evidence?’, you might quite rightly ask. Well, as usual, our friends at the Gwynedd Archaelogical Trust have been out and about... PRNs 3985, 3986 and 3988 are the relevant records here.

Sources for the cist and hut circle are:

Smith, G., 1998, Hut Circle Settlement Survey.
Sherriff, A., 1983, PRN 3990,

With regards the (possible) standing stone:

‘The island is a very small hummock although grassed over. Only the west side could be seen from the shore and there was no standing stone visible and the island is so small it would be unlikely to be anywhere except on the summit. There is a slab lying there which if seen close up might be seen as a fallen standing stone but from a distance could not be identified as such. Possibly it was standing when first observed. The original informant was contacted, who said the stone was easily visible, so must now have fallen, or been pushed over.....‘

Sources:
Smith, G., 2003 , Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Monument Survey: West Gwynedd & Anglesey.
Sherriff, A., 1983, PRN 3990.

As inferred above, Llyn yr Adar is a relatively obscure, isolated location, certainly not an easy visit for the average person (normal mountain rules apply). However if this sounds your bag, take the minor road heading steeply for Blaen Nanmor at Bethania Bridge, that is between the beautiful lakes of Llyn Gwynant and Llyn Dinas. There is parking available beside the entrance to the dwelling at Gelli Iago, from where a soggy track ascends to the excellent Llyn Llagi cradled beneath a fine cliff-line. Venture further up the path to the left and the ‘Bird Lake’ will be yours. And most probably only yours. Needless to say I wasn’t aware what treasures our forebears had left behind at this exquisite spot. Hopefully you are better informed.

The mountains of Moelwyn Mawr (2,527ft) and Moelwyn Bach (2,334ft) dominate the old slate mining town of Blaneau Ffestiniog, their gaunt profiles familiar to motorists travelling south along the A470 from the Snowdonian heartlands toward Dolgellau and Cadair Idris. The ‘sisters’ do not bask in the same popular glow of appreciation duly accorded other peaks by the outdoor fraternity... quarrying and industrial spoil suffice to ensure the area remains somewhat of an acquired taste. Nevertheless an ascent from the charming village of Croesor to the west offers, in my opinion, a fine day out.

Unfortunately there are no ancient cairns crowning the high ground to add to the vibe.... or at least to my knowledge. However – according to the archaeologist Peter Crew – traces of our prehistoric forebears still remain in the form of their round houses. One such has been identified by Mr Crew upon the crag overlooking the northern shore of Llyn Stwlan, the lake now functioning as a reservoir, presumably for Blaneau Ffestioniog. It would appear a 1998 survey by The Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (PRN 1501) found no grounds for objection.

References: Crew, P., 1982, Porthmadog & Ffestiniog Local Plan – SH64SE; Smith, G., 1998, Hut Circle Settlement Survey.

Here’s an obscure one... although if it had have been sited on the southern shore of Llyn Ogwen, it probably wouldn’t have been. Yeah, set upon the northern shore of the beautiful lake, Pen yr Oleu Wen towering immediately above, the incomparable Tryfan rising across the water, there can surely have been few more intoxicating places to live, assuming the occupants were ‘in tune’ with the landscape. Few more brutal, too, particularly when the winter storms rage. And somewhat at risk from rock falls, one would have thought? Although not marked on the OS map, the Gwynedd Archaeological Trust people have neverthless paid a visit – as you would expect – and reckon it is most probably the real deal. To quote from their notes (PRN 5008):

‘Massive walls and a neatly levelled interior suggest that the rectangular structure discovered N of Llyn Ogwen originally functioned as a habitation site. The surviving masonry is about 1m wide and 1.5m high and the walls incorporate large boulder. Externally the site measures 5m by 8.5m. The most striking aspect of this structure is that it is bisected by what appears to be the continuation of the packhorse trail described at the W end of Llyn Ogwen. Stones from the walls have been used to mark the edge of the track as it passes through the house and for 8m on either side. Gaps 2 to 2.5m wide have been cut in the walls of the house so the original entrance has been obscured and there is no evidence of any other internal features’. [Sources: Smith, G. , 1998 , Hut Circle Settlement Survey; Latham, J. & Plunkett Dillon, E. , 1986 , Archaeology in Wales].

So there you are. A public footpath follows the north bank of the llyn, accessible from both ends. Worth a wander, perhaps?

Mynydd Moel (2,804ft / 863m) is the eastern of the central summits of Cadair Idris, that wondrous mountain ridge rising more or less straight from the sea south of the beautiful Mawddach Estuary. Numerous lakes flank the massif at varying altitudes... creating, it may well be argued, an ideal landscape context for the siting of Bronze Age funerary cairns. Hence I’ve alway been a bit perplexed that none of the cairns crowning the main Cadair Idris peaks have been historically assigned an ancient origin (as opposed to the lower summits further to the west). Having said that the mountain is very popular with walkers, the cairns badly damaged. Unfortunately such judgements tend to be taken at face value... when what is required are inquiring minds driven by the evidence on the ground! (he says, hanging a guilty head in shame). But what views regardless!

It was therefore with considerable interest that I happened to browse Gwynedd Archaeological Trust (GAT) records and note the following, particularly the reference to ‘an arc of kerb to SW’ (PRN 4768):

‘A cairn stands on Mynydd Moel, 10m to the SE of the highest point at 855m on the edge of steep crags. It comprises ‘a low spread of stone, 15m diameter, heavily rebuilt to give a rectangular shelter, but with an arc of kerb on the SW and a stretch of 1m high facing formed by large stones set as headers filling a shallow gully to the NE’. [Sources: Crew, P. , 1980 , Archaeology in Wales; Smith, G. , 2001 , Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Sites Survey: Meirionnydd].

Looks like TMA needs some close-ups for confirmation, then.....

According to GAT (PRN 4699) Carn Arthur, a possible Crannog, can be found a little beyond the (current) south-western end of Llyn Mwyngil at SH71000900 – that is where the Afon Dysynni makes a loop near a weir:

‘Stony mound.....referred to in a reliable C19th account as being visible at low water and a good place to fish’. Sources: Peterson, R. & Roberts, J. G. , 1989 , Archaeology in Wales.

Haven’t seen it myself.

Sited, perhaps significantly, toward the southern end of the channel separating ‘mainland’ Anglesey from the ‘holy island’ to the west, Llyn Cerrig-bach – the source location of Wales’ most extensive ancient hoard of metal artefacts – lacks the mountain landscape drama of the other primary hoard sites at Llyn Fawr (Glamorgan) and (near) Tal-y-Llyn, Cadair Idris. Nevetheless the finds recovered here during 1942, the result of peat extraction during the construction of RAF Valley airfield, make the site of fundamental importance to any understanding of the Celtic culture of Iron Age Wales.

The collection includes in excess of 150 items fashioned from both iron and bronze (as at the Llyn Fawr), the most poignant perhaps being two ‘slave chains’ apparently initially used by the workmen for dragging lorries out of the mud! Then again, give them a break; how were they to have known? A case of extreme experimental archaeology in action, methinks. Aside from this reminder of the appalingly harsh reality of Iron Age life, the collection also features no less than 7 swords, 6 spearheads, a piece of a shield, trumpet.... even some equestrian stuff.

It is tempting to equate the deposit of such an important votive offering (surely it must have been ritualistic?) with a desperate request for supernatural assistance against the Roman legions poised across the Menai Straits filled with murderous intent .... if so, it didn’t work!

The Llyn Cerrig-bach hoard is now kept at The National Museum of Wales... further details at:
museumwales.ac.uk/en/2363/

There have been – to my knowledge – three major discoveries of Iron Age hoards in Wales to date: namely within the Llyn Fawr above The Rhondda... at Llyn Cerrig Bach, Anglesey..... and here-abouts.

The Llyn Fawr is strikingly evocative and Anglesey is, well, Anglesey; however the southern flank of Cadair Idris rising above Llyn Mwyngil (better known – unfortunately for those with due respect for the vernacular grammar – as Tal-y-Llyn Lake) is, in my opinion, a truly classic location of stunning aesthetic appeal, the craggy mountainside sweeping elegantly – albeit with a maverick ‘roughness’ anticipating the heights of central Snowdonia further north – down to lakeside from near enough 3,000ft. It’s a disappointment to note that the metal alloy artefacts deposited here were not actually recovered from the depths of the lake – as in Authurian lore – but from the nearby crags in 1963 (I understand in the vicinity of the Nant Cadair, outflow of the utterly wondrous Llyn Cau), hidden beneath a boulder... hence casting significant doubt as to whether the hoard represented a votive offering to the Celtic gods, or ill gotten gains stashed.... and never reclaimed. Hey, perhaps retrieved from the llyn by an unscrupulous rogue in search of a quick profit? (or, an intriguing thought.... was the primary origin actually Llyn Cau?) Who knows. Who will ever know? I reckon the latter, myself, bearing in mind the piece of ‘lock’. Still, the treasures now reside in The National Museum of Wales, Cardiff. So go see ‘em, if you get the chance. But remember where they came from. Oh yes. The landscape that inspired the vision. And how...

Of primary interest is a trapezoid brass ‘repousse’ plaque, (according to the experts at the museum) apparently designed as one of a pair, representing a human face with ‘staring eyes, and finely combed hair, an image of striking quality’. The hoard also contained ‘fragments from two shields’, including a boss, some plates, perhaps originating from a ‘ceremonial cart’... and ‘part of a Roman lock’. However, the quality of workmanship notwithstanding, it is where the metalwork came from that, for me, engenders such interest, the salient detail that ensures such vitality of design and form ‘means what it says on the tin’ – or brass – that this was for real. If you should happen to find yourself standing at water’s edge here... take a long, lingering look at the rocky heights to left and right... note the chasm in the cliff line above Minffordd where flows the Nant Cadair.... and the high bwlch of Llyn Bach carrying the road toward Dolgellau to the north-east... and see what you think? Better still, put on the boots and have a wander up to Cwm Cau.

Incidentally a colour image of the plaque can be appreciated at:
museumwales.ac.uk/en/2352/

Coflein quotes the following stats for this dramatically sited round cairn set a little below the precipitous southern summit – at 2,723ft to my mind the ‘true’ summit – of Cadair Berwyn:

‘A round cairn, 24-22m in diameter and 1.5m to the top of a sheep-shelter superimposed upon it. Set on the extreme edge of a precipice that falls away on the E.... [(source Os495card; SJ03SE7) RCAHMW AP955008/66; 965041/44-5 J.Wiles 26.09.02].‘

Note that these details were subsequently confirmed by A.C.K. Roseveare and N.A.R. Vaughan on 29/03/2007. Which is always good to hear. Incidentally CPAT (PRN 101976) cites a possible subsiduary cairn ‘8.0m by 4.0m and 0.3m high’ located ‘About 10m to the NW...‘

The name of this isolated peak, rising abrupty from the watery wilderness between the wondrous Inverpolly Forest and Assynt, is said to have come from the Norse for ‘Pillar Mountain’, no doubt a reference to its full-on profile from the coast. However our very own resident Arch-drude asserts in his legendary day-glo tome (Page 83) that it derides from Suil, the ‘Eye Goddess’, also manifesting herself in that greatest of all artificial hills... Silbury itself.... directing the maternal gaze upon the passing traveller. Consequently I believe it deserves a place in this on-line community version of the said work.

At 2,398ft (731m) Suilven resides very far down the list of Scottish mountains in terms of height; however I doubt if there is a more distinctive, enigmatic mountain in all of Alba, certainly when viewed from the coastal town of Lochinver to approx north-west, the then conical profile overwhelming the senses with its sheer otherworldly intensity. In short, it is everything a Mother Hill should be. Despite its ‘lack’ of elevation it requires, by all accounts, a c25km round wilderness walk to ascend, something unfortunately now beyond my fitness levels, I guess forever. But hey, a profile like that simply begs to be seen any-which-way you can.

Here’s to Mother Nature continuing to inspire, invigorate and – sometimes – scare the living daylights out of us.... as she always has done.

Wonderfully sited at the summit of Turnhouse Hill, to the north-east of Carnethy Hill’s massive example, Canmore gives the dimensions of this cairn as c12.7m in diameter, rising to a height of c0.4m with ‘a clearly-defined internal robbing-scar on the SW’ [R Mowat and D R Easton, 13 November 1993].

I was actually planning to visit this enclosure back in May, following an ascent of Carnethy Hill from the south... only for the vision of the onward route to Scald Law – and an apparent large cairn upon South Black Hill – to call the louder. Some other time, then.

Anyway Canmore records the following:

‘Part of a palisaded enclosure is visible within the earthwork that crowns the prominent hill to the SE of Turnhouse Hill. The enclosure was probably roughly circular, measuring about 30m in diameter, but the palisade trench is clearly defined only on the N. The earthwork measures 85m by 60m within a rampart and ditch, and there are entrances on the NE and SW. Where best-preserved, the rampart stands up to 1.7m above the bottom of the ditch, but to the S of the field-wall that cuts across the earthwork the defences have been reduced to a scarp by cultivation. Within the interior the positions of at least nine timber houses can be identified, two of them exceptionally well-preserved ring-ditch houses about 13m in overall diameter. (P Hill 1982; RCAHMS 1988).‘

There is a lot more occuring here – in this unfeasibly quiet corner of the Elanydd – than I ever imagined. Yeah, a veritable prehistoric ritual metropolis! According to the local CPAT people, logged under reference PRN55289, the area represents:

[A]’Concentration of prehistoric activity with around ten standing stones, a stone circle, a cairnfield... and three individual round barrows (cairns). The standing stones, seven of which are recumbent, range from 0.8m to 3.3m in length. The stone circle comprises of eighteen stones, with a large flat stone at the centre. It has a diameter of 22m with stones set 3-3m apart. All but two are recumbent. The cairnfield incorporates nine or more cairns and is aligned roughly SW-NE along a terrace.‘

As stated in subsequent comments to my fieldnote of 21/2/12 prospective visitors to this obscure, yet rewarding site are recommended to contact local TMA member ‘Castlecorbenic’ in order to achieve a stress free (not to mention safe – the woods are used for shooting on occasions) on-site vibe.

Please e-mail:

alexjones (@) castlecorbenic . com

My thanks to Alex for stepping up to the plate on behalf of Essex heritage. To my mind this is an example of a sensible workaround we should actively encourage.

Note that there is currently (Oct 2012) official access to the site through NT’s Craflwyn Hall. Punters should follow a waymarked footpath – beautiful, it has to be said, complete with waterfall.

It should be simple enough. Needless to say, however, I first diverted to the wooded hill to the north-east in search of views of Llyn Dinas (and, in truth, somewhat disorientated within the wood) and subsequently got completely carried away by the wonder of it all as the sun came streaming through the cloud base. Seeing my mistake, the hill fort rising opposite through the trees, I then concluded I didn’t have enough time before dark to do the site justice. I will therefore return some other time. Classic scenery, this.

In my ignorance I didn’t realise the significance of these stones; so took no images. Guess I didn’t grasp the true extent of the major prehistoric complex which once – hey, still does – define these low hills of Elanydd.

Coflein quotes the following for this Bronze Age stone setting:

‘Two recumbent stones NW side Gro Hill track. Stones orientated NE-SW. Largest approx. 2.5m long x 1m wide x 0.60m deep. Other stone at N corner of larger stone, approx. 2m long x 0.60m wide x 0.40m depth (RSJ 2000).‘

Coflein logs the following in respect of this cairn, overlooking the mountain road from Ponterwyd to Penrhyn-coch. [Take care at the nearby ford after (not uncommon) heavy rain if you aren’t used to such things]:

‘Probable round barrow on the crest of a spur on open moorland. Measures 14m in diameter x 0.4m high. It is turf covered. The central area has been robbed out, possibly to build a nearby sheepfold. [R.S. Jones, Cambrian Archaeological Projects, 2004].‘

Well worth stopping off for a look – or even an extended stop, since there is great vibe here, what with the shapely profile of the wondrous Dinas hillfort rising beyond. No fences to contend with, although a large sheepfold, constructed, one assumes, of former cairn material, obstructs the monument’s profile from the road.

Viewed from a distance (from the cliff top remains of the nearby Garafad chambered cairn) I took this site to be the disturbed remnants of a substantial round cairn. Judging by the nomenclature I am not the first to make such an (apparently incorrect) assumption; however it would appear that current thinking believes this to be the remains of a dun/broch. According to Canmore:

“Not a chambered cairn, but remains of a dun (or possibly a broch), mutilated and robbed for later settlement. The outer and inner faces of a wall varying between 3 – 3.5m in thickness, with an internal diameter of between 10 – 11m. The entrance passage (0.7m in width) lies at the NW. A circular structure some 2m in diameter and with a wall thickness of 0.8m sits in the northern quadrant of the interior, and is probably of a later date. Similarly hollows within the interior seem to be of a later date to the defensive works. Later rectangular buildings to the E, W and N and stone dykes, have probably absorbed some of the original fabric.
Visited by R Miket, 15 April 1988”

I fully intended a visit prior to the cloud mantle covering The Quiraing peeling away and offering the opportunity of a climb which I could not refuse. But there you are.

Pastscape (Monument No. 201736) has the following to say about this obscure Bronze Age barrow:

‘A bowl barrow on Ibberton Hill, 250 metres south of Baker’s Folly. The barrow has a mound 1 metre high and 17 metres in diameter. It is now slightly elongated due to erosion caused by a track which clips its eastern edge. A small depression in the centre of the mound suggests partial excvation. Surrounding the mound is a quarry ditch which has become infilled over the years and now survives as a buried feature 2 metres wide. Scheduled.‘

Unfortunately the undergrowth contributed to me not being able to positively identify the monument ... to be honest I might well have been looking in the wrong place altogether. Suffice to say I’ll have another go should I again find myself upon this rather fine ridge. It’s worth it, the views to the west pretty wondrous, my friends.

Although the visit was undertaken in the face of severely wet conditions – the extreme weather eventually completely penetrating my old waterproofs – serves me right for not taking the challenge of a small Dartmoor hill seriously and dressing appropriately (muppet) – the lack of surface bracken encountered by Johan meant I am pretty sure ‘The Giant’s Grave’ is actually one of two Bronze Age round barrows to be found north of the large stone circle... according to Pastscape at SX76768744 (ref – Monument number 445366... ‘Earthwork remains of Bronze Age cairns’). In short, the latest OS 1:25K map seems accurate enough... no doubt the OS dudes sigh with relief... NOT. I’ve posted images (on back up digital compact due to the aforementioned horizotal, driving rain!). Johan’s images are of the large stone circle.... to be honest, a far bigger prize. Well done that man for blazing the trail back in 2000!

This forms quite an extensive settlement beside two of the darkest lakes in all Snowdonia.

Unable to log any actual ‘fieldnotes’ since I was merely a’ passing by at a distance... en-route to the Bronze Age monuments crowning Foel Grach and Carnedd Llewelyn rising above. Yeah, at my age a diversion was asking a tad too much, it has to be said. To be fair this is remote enough.... a stunning location, well worth a primary visit. Perhaps another time, when the knees finally call ‘enough’.

The cliffs of the aforementioned Foel Grach tower above, the harsh call of the crow – hey, perhaps even raven – echoing from the rock face (bless... probably sounds pretty sexy to another crow). What an incredibly extreme place to make your home! However seen in the low early morning light, methinks this is truly exquisite. The truly fit may wish to make a call before – or after – a visit to the high Carneddau peaks. If so, I salute you. Hell, I salute you if you come here anyway. The world needs people willing to do such things.

The easiest route here begins at the road terminus at Llyn Eigiau... the drive to this point quite an adventure in itself, with numerous other monuments in the area, too. Follow the green track to the approx north-west (i.e. not the one leading to Llyn Eigiau) and... depending on your point of view... either take the second right hand path to arc around to the north (not done this myself) or stay upon the main track and make your way across the Afon Dulyn as best you can.

Ah, Y Carneddau. Every great cairn needed people to build it, to make it much more than a pile of stones. Places like Pant-y-Griafolen were where such people lived.

I found this to be an excellent, well preserved example of a Mid Walian upland hill fort upon the foothills of Pumlumon. Easy access, too, with some first class views. According to Coflein the site is:

‘..a stone-walled, ditchless summit-top oval enclosure, measuring 68m by 44m. The ground falls away steeply to the east and west, and on the gentler north and south approaches are additional walls c.55m and 18m from the enclosure respectively. There is a well preserved oblique entrance passage through the south-east enclosure wall, without which are two, possibly natural, monoliths. A modern cairn lies within the enclosure.’ (source Os495card; SN98NW5) RCAHMW AP945030/45-6; 955037/66. J.Wiles 13.01.04

And....

‘Site survives well. Organised clearance / excavation of tumbled scree fronting the western rampart has taken place at some point, revealing the lower courses of the preserved rampart wall for a short distance. In the rampart screes of the southern rampart, near the gateway, two or three lines of potential wall faces are visible within the rubble core. The interior is uneven and rocky but at least two level areas with rock-cut rear ‘walls’ can be made out, forming shallow platforms. There are also boggy areas, and a wide level area inside the south gateway, potentially representing a ‘yard’ immediately inside the main gate.’ (T. Driver. 2005.10.10)

Cae’r Eglwys – a possible long cairn, Nash Point

Shockingly treated by locals, covered in cans, assorted rubbish and dog waste, this site, marked as an ‘earthwork’ upon the 1:25K OS map at SS91666825 is nevertheless cited by Coflein as a possible Neolithic long cairn, being an....

‘Oval stony mound about 50m long by 15m wide at east end and 8m wide at west end. (1999.05.21.RCAHMW/SLE). The mound has been mutilated by the digging of a narrow trench about its perimeter, possibly to rob a revetment. Associated with the site of an old church, possibly one lost to the sea. (J.Wiles 19.12.02)‘

Poor South Weald Camp has been badly treated by the passage of time, of that there can be no doubt. Firstly, by its incorporation within a deer park in medieval times, then by having a road driven through its centre... and last but not least... by having its eastern half remodelled as a cricket ground! To be honest, it’s a wonder anything exists at all.... but thankfully it does.

The western half of the enclosure can be freely visited, lying as it does within the Weald Park Country Park. Not so the eastern, since the cricketing chaps would no doubt think it very bad form if a traveller was to go walkabout during a game. However I’d suggest the whole of the enclosure is worth seeing. And it costs nothing to ask permission, does it not?

Essex HER [SMR 531] has quite a bit of data regarding the site, including:

‘On high ground partly within the eastern boundary of Weald Park. It is approximately circular, enclosing about 7 acres. On the east side is a rampart and steep scarp. If there was an external ditch it has gone, the northern section of defences has almost disappeared. The site of the entrance is doubtful.Two trenches were excavated across the defensive ditches in 1990 in an attempt to confirm the Late Iron Age date. Three years after the excavation, a detailed contour survey of the earthwork and its immediate environs was undertaken as part of a separate project aimed at assessing the archaeological potential of the Essex Country Parks.The two trenches excavated sectioned the univallate defences in the north-west and south-west quadrants. Both the excavations and the contour survey date the beginning of the construction of the hillfort to the Late Iron Age. Dating is provided by small amounts of Late Iron Age pottery in the rampart make-up. One trench had a well-defined linear cut interpreted as a slot for a revetment at the rear of the rampart. Within the area enclosed by ditch and rampart were a number of post holes also dated to the late iron Age; they may represent internal structures.

[FAU. 1994. South Weald Surface Model; Medlycott, Maria et al. 1995. South Weald camp – probable late Iron Age hill-fort; excavations 1990; Isserlin, RMJ. 1995. South Weald Camp, Brentwood and Langdon Hills, Basildon: Analytical Earthwork Survey.]‘

Amazing what you can pick up from local knowledge, isn’t it? OK, I had surmised – whilst hanging out at the Llorfa stone circle back in September – that the profile of Cribarth looked a little like a recumbent figure from that direction. However I wasn’t aware the 1,387ft mini-mountain was known locally as the ‘Sleeping Giant’.....

Apparently the best viewpoint to appreciate the likeness is near Cae’r-Lan, north-east of Ystradgynlais (at approx SN804120). Too cloudy to test this out personally this Christmas, but on-line photos seem very convincing. Sacred Hill, indeed. I wandered up it a number of years back in mist. Need to return some time for a proper look, methinks.

Coflein has the following to say about this quite remarkably sited fort:

‘The east end of Sully Island is defended by a succession of three ramparts. There has been erosion, particularly on the south, and the north half is thickly overgrown; the present area of the main enclosure is about 0.4 ha, but it may originally have been twice as much. The inner rampart, cutting off the subsidiary promontory at the point of contraction, was fronted by a ditch and is thought to have been revetted, or walled in stone.

D.K.Leighton, RCAHMW, August 1987. RCAHMW AP955145/50-1‘

Note that the Mam C’s husband works nearby (at time of posting) and reckon’s the warning notices posted in the vicinity most certainly mean what they say.... the tides upon this coastline are not to be trifled with, so watch yourself please.

Access to the wonderful Bryn-yr-Hen-Bobl has always seemed problematic. However plan in advance and my solution – although admittedly back in October 2006 – was to write to The Marquess of Anglesey to see what the position was..... I quote from his (handwritten) reply:

‘Just back from S. Italy to receive your [letter] of 29 Sep. I am v. pleased to give you permission to visit the 2 sites you mention in week beginning 23 October. Remember to shut the gate at the Hen Bobl! Every good wish.....‘

Not exactly unfriendly, it has to be said, so suggest this may well be the best option if you wish to hang out at the site in peace. If so, the address is:

The Marquess of Anglesey,
Plas Newydd,
Llanfair P.G.
Anglesey,
North Wales LL61 6DZ

Although well seen from the wondrous hillfort occupying the north-western section of Craig yr Aderyn, since this rather obvious cairn, crowning the crags to the approx south-east, was not marked on my 1:25K OS map I assumed it to be modern, possibly the result of quarrying work. Needless to say I’m glad to report that I was wrong. Not only do the people at Coflein disagree re modernity – suggesting a Bronze Age origin – they also cite a possible further ancient enclosure upon said summit. I quote:

‘Large stone cairn constructed of scree, with central robber pit, which lies some 300m south-east of the prominent hillfort of Craig-yr-Aderyn. The cairn sits on a rocky crag at the south-western end of possible stone defended enclosure, with substantial scree-built rampart to north-east. Not investigated on the ground. Discovered during RCAHMW aerial reconnaissance on 17th October 2005, image ref: AP_2005_2283. T. Driver, 5th June 2008‘

Good reason to return at some point, I guess.... What a drag. As if the sublime views weren’t reason enough?

I was prompted to make this post following a recent visit to Carn Fawr... the twin cairns of Carn Gwilym standing proud (with a little help from modern ‘masons’, it has to be said) upon the summit of Carn Hyddgen across the valley.

Intriguingly, Coflein quotes a field report from 1910 stating:

‘there are here two cairns, 60 feet apart. They stand on the summit of Mynydd Hyddgen... an outlying height of Plynlymon, midway between the sources of Nant y Garn and Nant Lluest fach. They are each 20 feet in height; of rough construction, the stones being piled into a mass without any signs of regular courses. No stones similar to those used in the building of these cairns are to be seen anywhere around; none are scattered about from which they could now be erected, and none are of a size larger than one man could carry hither. Of the carneddau of the Plynlymon district Carn Gwilym is probably the best preserved‘

Each cairn measuring 20 feet in height in 1910? Surely not? Oh, come on?

Whatever the accuracy of the ‘not so modern antiquarians’, CPAT gives a succinct appraisal of the current state of affairs:

Northern cairn – ‘Substantial summit cairn c. 13m diam. Original form difficult to assess due to disturbance and construction of a modern cairn 3.2m diam x 2.8m high, off-centre to S. Small shelter also built into cairn on E side. Outer edge of cairn is turf covered, with loose rubble interior, Top has been levelled and remains of a revetment wall survive on S side. Irregular group of stones to SE is of uncertain function. The modern cairn has been recently rebuilt (?and enlarged) using more of burial cairn stone. Good palaeoenvironmental deposits over 1m deep c. 100-150m to NE. (CPAT 2002) (CPAT Prehistoric Ritual & Funerary Monuments, 2002)‘

Southern cairn – ‘Substantial cairn which appears to comprise a turf covered ring bank 13.2 x 12.5 x 0.5m, visible most clearly on E side, the interior of which is filled with loose rubble forming a cairn up to 0.75m high. The top has been levelled and disturbed by the construction of a modern cairn set off-centre to W, measuring 3.4m diam x 2.4m high, possibly recently rebuilt. Small satellite cairn adjoins E side, 2.5m diam, composed of well-sett stones. (CPAT 2002) (CPAT Prehistoric Ritual & Funerary Monuments, 2002)‘

Quite an obscure one this, although paradoxically sited in a very popular tourist area.... I’ve driven past a number of times without a clue. But then, what’s new?

The National Trust – via the ADS – have this to say about this scheduled monument:

‘...located on Castle Howe, an area of high ground springing abruptly from Little Langdale valley, with a rocky knoll forming the highest point. The ground falls precipitously from this knoll in all directions and access to the summit can only be gained by a steep 6m scramble up the western face. On the northern and southern sides of the knoll, just below the summit, there are rectangular levelled areas, the former measuring approximately 6m by 3m, the latter measuring approximately 8m by 5m which are interpreted as artificial hut platforms. At the base of the knoll’s western face is the first of a series of four rock cut ditches dug across a spur of relatively level high ground extending towards the west; it measures approximately 4m wide by 1.3m deep. This second ditch measures approximately 5m wide by 1m deep and terminates at its northern end in a sub-rectangular rock-cut levelled area terminates at its northern end in a in a sub-rectangular rock cut levelled area measuring approximately 17m by 13m. At the northern end of this levelled area is a rock cut circular area measuring approximately 4m in diameter which is interpreted as a hut circle. A short distance to the east is a second, slightly smaller, similar feature . The third ditch measures 3m-9m wide by 1.3m deep and also terminates at it’s northern end in a rectangular rock-cut levelled area measuring approximately 7m by 5m. The outer ditch on the knoll’s western side measures 7m wide By 1.5m deep. At the base of the knoll’s eastern face are two rock-cut ditches; the inner measures 19m wide by 0.8m deep, the outer measuring 8m wide by 1m deep. The Southern end of both these ditches connects with a rock-cut levelled area of 10 sq m. The site lies at the eastern end of Wrynose Pass. It overlooks the Roman road from Ambleside to Ravenglass and a medieval moot, or meeting place at Fell Foot.‘

Sited at the terminus of the north-eastern ridge of Moel Eilio, overlooking Llanberis.... not to mention the much newer (ha!) native Welsh fortress of Dobadarn... this small enclosure has not had to suffer my boots as yet, although I have unwittingly walked right by. Nevertheless Coflein know the score:

‘On the summit of an isolated hill surrounded by the 90m contour and overlooking the village of Llanberis, are the remains of an oval camp protected by a single stone vallum, measuring about 90m from west-south-west to east-north-east, and 30m across at its maximum width. The position is one of remarkable strength, for along the whole of the northern side the cliffs are 60m high and very precipitous. Yet it is on this side that the only stretch of well-preserved walling is to be found. The external rampart masonry consists of large facing stones each measuring up to 1m wide by 1m high, with smaller packing stones set behind them. The site is very poorly preserved at ground level.‘

Source: Caernarvonshire Inventory Volume II, 169 (1136). RCAHMW, June 2009

Our friends at Coflein have this to say of the large, shattered cairn crowning the 2,382ft summit of Moel Eilio, western outlier of The Snowdon Massif. Pretty recent survey, too:

‘The cairn is constructed from medium/large pieces of scree and outcropping stone. A circular shelter measuring 6m in diameter by 0.6m high has been constructed on top. There is possible kerbing surviving on the south side as a slight bank with medium/large scree stones set within it. Overall the cairn measures 20m in diameter and survives to only 0.3m-0.4m high. The superstructure of the cairn has either been reused in the shelter or has spread as collapsed scree on the west side. A further small shelter measuring 4m diameter by 0.3m high has also been constructed on the north side of the cairn. The site is marked on the current OS mapping.‘

Oxford Archaeology North, 2008

According to Coflein there is an ‘extensive series of rectangular stone houses, banks, field walls and enclosures of late medieval or early post medieval date but with a large enclosure and associated hut circle probably of prehistoric date’ to be seen upon this ridge opposite Rhos-y-Gelynnen. Continuity of human habitation, then.

Coflein PRNs 16534-16540 inc. (1994 CE) (RSJ 2000) refer.

There is also an associated round cairn at SN91586139. Coflein, again:

‘Site of round cairn, approx. 3m in diameter x 0.30m high. Slight hollow in central area with partial remains of robbed cist evident. Orientation E-W. Approx. 1m x 0.60m. W cist stone approx. 30cm thick (RSJ 2000)‘

Sited to the approx south-west of the summit cairn of Gorllwyn, this, another substantial monument, offers superb views southwards to the Great Escarpment guarding the approach to South Wales. There are worse places to be....

According to CPAT – PRN 3001:

‘A substantial round barrow (cairn) situated towards the south-western end of the ridge of Pen y Gorllwyn. Constructed as a circular mound of stones, the barrow has been altered to create a ‘C’ shaped shelter to the east side and a cairn/beacon mound in the centre. Dimensions of later features as previously stated except the original barrow has a height of 1.7m and a diameter of 15m, north to south, 14.2m, east to west. No other features noted. The remains of an aerial-mast housing stand just to the north-east in the form of several small heaps of stone, robbed from the cairn (CPAT 2005).‘

Gorllwyn is one of just two 2,000ft summits – the other being the beehive-cairned Drygarn Fawr – which entice unsuspecting ‘proper’ (ha!) hillwalkers to the obscure, soggy uplands feeding the Elan Valley reservoirs near Rhayader. I’d wager many leave disappointed.... never to return. Fair enough. There are few ‘spectacular’ views to be had here, no soaring ridges, nothing to impede the mist from sweeping in to make navigation a complete and utter bloody nightmare. So please, please do not take this area lightly since, contrary to appearances on the map, I reckon The Cwmddeudwr offer some of the roughest, most testing walking in all Wales, courtesy of a paucity of paths and an abundance of rough, tussocky, ankle twisting grass and bog. Yeah, it’s almost as if the area wants to be left in peace, unviolated by the tourist boot.... but if that sounds like a challenge to you... right on, my friends! Go for it, since there’s cairns, fallen monoliths and an unrivalled vibe in them thar hills. For starters the 2,011ft sumiit of Gorllwyn is crowned by the messed about remains of a large cairn, described by the Clwyd / Powys Archaeological Trust thus (PRN 3002):

‘Substantial round barrow (cairn) located on the highest point (summit) of Pen y Gorllwyn. Constructed as a mound of heaped stone, still standing to a height of 1.4m. The monument has been disturbed by the construction of an OS trig point which has been cemented to the highest point of the barrow. Incorporating the trig point, in the north-west quadrant of the barrow, is a ‘C’ shaped shelter 3.7m in diameter and 1.2m high, with a hollowed centre. Two further, smaller shelters have been created on the south-east side of the barrow. There is no evidence of kerbing or other features (CPAT 2005)’.

CPAT – the Clwyd / Powys Archaeological Trust – have the following to say about this fallen monolith... lying up here in about as wonderfully obscure and vibey position as I can imagine:

‘... A recumbent stone located 51m south-south-west of PRN 3001 [that is the south western cairn – Gladman].... rectangular in section 3.5m in length (east to west) 0.94m in width (north-west to south-east) and 0.63m in height. Basal hollow at east end, 1.2m across, containing a number of packing stones, many are now overgrown with heather. The stones has fallen to the west and there is some erosion, due to stock shelter, at the west end. Very exposed site with commanding views all around. Good palaeoenvironmental environment to the south, downslope. (CPAT 2005)‘

Occupying the summit of Moel Faner and encircled by the southern section of the popular ‘Precipice Walk’, north of Dolgellau – and hence commanding some pretty fine views – this is but one of numerous small hillforts in the shadow of Cadair Idris. According to Coflein it is:

‘A roughly oval, somewhat polygonal, enclosure, about 70m north-east to slouth-west by 42m. It is defined by a ruinous stone wall, about 2.7-3.0m across. The only entrance faces north-east and is flanked by an additional ditched mound on the north side.....

Source: Bowen & Gresham ‘History of Merioneth I (1967), 152-3. John Wiles 04.07.07‘

Three defended settlements stand in parallel.... here upon the beautiful Welsh/English – or should that be English/Welsh? – border, not far from Shrewsbury... Ha! Merely lines upon maps, methinks.

According to our friends at Coflein, the central site is:

‘A roughly sub-oval enclosure, c.56m N-S by 54m, set n a S facing hillside, c.240m SE of the Breiddin Hillfort (Nprn141162) defined by one or two lines of widely spaced collapsed stone ramparts, 106m N-S by 78m overall.
The enclosure has been associated with the field system (Nprn306995) between it and the Breiddin fort. Excavation, 1933-5, produced RB material, late 1st-4th c. [J.Wiles 12.11.2002]‘

The Gwynedd Archaeological Trust has the following to say about Carnedd y Bachgen – the great cairn surmounting Arenig Fach – under PRN4727:

1) ‘A circle of stones about 33ft in diameter represents all that is left of Carnedd y Bachgen. The material of the cairn has probably been taken to construct an ordnance cairn about 100ft to the W.

2) A flat topped cairn 11m in diameter and up to 1.4m high. The top portion may well have been removed to form an old trig station some 37m to the WSW. This in turn has been superceded by a modern trig-pillar immediately beyond it and now forms a windbreak....

3) The structure cannot be a hut circle, in view of the altitude (880m OD), its very exposed position and the very rough interior space, which is composed of large slabs of rock and bedrock. In addition the NW edge of the wall is at a lower level, below a small scarp of rock.‘

[Sources: Merionethshire , Royal Commission on Ancient and Historic Monuments (1921); SH84SW 2 , Ordnance Survey (1974); Prehistoric Funerary and Ritual Sites Survey: Meirionnydd , Smith, G. (2001); Archaeology in Wales , Crew, P. (1985)]

The ‘Giant’s Hall’ is a pretty obscure hillfort offering panaromic views over the magnificent Mid Walian countryside... worth the short, but very steep climb from the road for those alone, in my opinion. The relatively well preserved defences protecting the easiest approach are a bonus, so to speak.

According to Coflein:

‘A roughly oval enclosure, set in a saddle towards the summit of Allt Dolanog, c.164m by 86m, defined by an irregular plot of bank & ditch, facing rising ground, with a possible inner circuit, resting on steep natural scarps on the S. An annex is defined by a bank extending c.90m to the E. The site of a holy well lies immediately to the W (Nprn32421). The surrounding area shows traces of plough-cultivation.(source Os495card; SJ01SE2) – J.Wiles 07.01.04’.

Hmm... a holy well, too.

Very obscure one, this.... doesn’t feature upon any OS map I’ve seen and Coflein (currently) have no details either.... However CPAT (PRN 7820) have this to say:

‘Discovered during rapid upland survey in 1993. Roughly rectangular chamber with 3 orthostats on the NE seeming to form a constricted entrance. Capstones missing. Chamber surrounded by low stony bank probably the result of digging out the chamber from its covering mound and augmented by modern dumping. Most closely resembles a passage grave but other exemplars of that group are distant. The upland situation is unusual for chambered tombs in N Wales (Gibson, 2002, pp2-4).‘

So there you are. One of Wales’ great lost tombs, perhaps?

I stumbled across this fortuitously since the fenceline to the wonderful Afon Y Dolau Gwynion chambered cairn bisects the monument. Not a great deal left, but bonus sites are always welcome. Great position, too.

No doubt as to ‘authenticity’ since, according to our friends at Coflein, the site is:

‘A much ruined round cairn, 9.0-11.5m in diameter, a cist was observed and an urn recovered, c.1830.(source Os495card; SJ02SW9)
J.Wiles 25.09.02’.

Essex HER (SMR 151) quotes the following summary of this fine hillfort (as mentioned in my fieldnotes I was very taken with the site in a ‘Wallbury’ sort of way. However I must reiterate that there is currently no public access to the site. Far from it):

‘Oval hillfort of uncertain date but typologically it is thought to belong to the Early Iron Age. The defences, which are considerably strengthened by the lie of the ground, consist of a wide ditch with intermittent traces of an internal rampart. There are four gaps in the defences, but the original entrance cannot now be identified. The ditch varies in size, but is c.15.25m wide and 4.5m deep from the summit of the scarp and 1m from the summit of the counterscarp. The total area enclosed is about six and a half hectares and the whole site is thickly planted.‘

Incredibly... this denuded bowl barrow, standing within the north-western arc of the hillfort, has a golf bunker cut into its easten flank. Yeah, you really, really couldn’t make it up, particularly since this is supposedly a scheduled ancient monument (no. 27025).

One wonders if General Pitt Rivers, who excavated the barrow in 1876, played golf? I would hope not. Whatever, the game and its adherents have had – and continue to have – a very detrimental effect upon our national heritage. And for what? Shame on them.

According to HER (ref MES1704) the general found ‘....pottery fragments, broken and polished flint celts, flint saws and some charcoal’ in two holes near the centre of the barrow. HER also notes that ‘Other flints, including a barbed and tanged arrowhead were found in other parts of the barrow. The finds are in the British Museum. There was no trace of a burial’.

Far less well known than the enigmatic Dinas Emrys sited a little way further up the course of the nascent Afon Glaslyn to the approx east, this fortified hilltop nevertheless looks well worth a visit, despite an apparent paucity of visible remains.... particularly when viewed from Moel Hebog in vibrant Autumn light.

According to the local Gwynedd Archaeological Trust:

‘small precipitous hill with a fairly level top measuring c.110m NW-SE by 5.5m. Parts of the circumference not naturally impregnable are protected by a single wall of roughly laid dry masonry now barely traceable. The entrance was from the NW. The interior contains no certain dwellings, but one or two slight hollows may be hut sites. Condition: almost destroyed’.

‘the wall is visible as a low scarp for a length of 40.0m on the N side of Dinas. The entrance could not be identified......‘

Coflein is pretty succinct regarding the summit mound of this small peak, standing sentinel overlooking the fabulous valley of the Afon Doethie in wildest Mid Wales:

‘Sitting under trig point. Prominent barrow, c. 14 paces dia. Good circular kerb to SE. (TA and HJ James visited 1998.11.29).‘

According to Canmore:

‘On Tor Beag, a rocky promontory, is a once strong stone-walled fort measuring internally about 220’ by 80’ within a ruinous wall enclosing the summit. Some 20’ below summit level is a second line of defence mostly represented by a terrace. At the approach to the fort, along a narrow neck, is an outer wall of massive boulders (Feachem 1963). Many flint arrowheads have been found in the neighbourhood (Grant 1885). A Grant 1885; C G Cash 1910; R W Feachem 1963.‘

According to Canmore records Dr J Kenworthy (6 May 1974) had (unspecified) reservations about this being a bona-fide prehistoric long cairn....

‘A possible long cairn of bare, tumbled stone with many disturbances, 2.5m in maximum height by 35.0m long including horns, 4.0m long, at the E end. The sides are straight. The forecourt between the horns is c. 16.0m across and appears to have been blocked by boulders in front of where the facade would be expected to lie. The S horn shows disturbance and later walling. The W end is 4.0m – 6.0m wide and 1.35m in maxiumum height. At a point 21.5m from the W end, the cairn narrows and there is a 5.0m x 3.0m bite out of the S side; then there is a minor rise to c. 1.5m and a steep fall to the forecourt. The plan and prrofile (sic) of the cairn suggest two phases of construction.‘

For what it’s worth, I’ve never seen a long clearance cairn with horns (incidentally there is a prominent ‘bite’ taken out of the southern flank, presumably the result of quarrying) so must, on balance of the visual evidence, concur with the OS who (on the latest 1:50K map) have no reservations about Balnacraig’s authenticity. Not to mention Drewbhoy.

Unfortunately wasn’t aware of this at the time of my recent visit to Finavon – that just being a ‘stop-off’ en route to Aberdeen – or else I would have taken a look. Seems worth the effort. According to Canmore:

‘A cist found before 1842 is preserved in its original site in the middle of a sub-circular “artificial hillock”, composed of stones and earth, about 30 paces in diameter, from 8 to 10ft high, and called the Roundie. “The bottom of the grave is about 3ft below the surface, and was composed of six separate flags of freestone, all of which remain except the top. It is about 4ft long, by 2ft broad, and lies due north and south. A stone urn was found in the SE corner and two stone dishes with handles or ears, resembling those of ‘luggies’. No bones, weapons, or personal ornaments were to be seen, but the urn was about half full of black ashes.” The urn and “dishes” were given to the late Mr Charles Gray of Carse Gray.
A Jervise 1859; New Statistical Account (NSA) 1845.

A round cairn 30m in diameter and 1m high surrounded by a retaining wall. The cist cavity, 1.3m by 0.6m by 0.3m deep remains but no slabs were noted. It is possible that these are obscured by the vegetation which covers the cairn. A few large stones lie around.
Visited by OS (JLD) 21 August 1958.‘