pure joy

Pulpit Hill – 26.9.2004

Unremarkable hill fort, but still worth the short (500m) walk up the hill from the small gravelly car parks at SP833046. The car park is on the north side of a minor road, not far from the A4010. This minor road (signposted Great Missenden, and others) comes off from a roundabout just north of Princes Risborough.

Nice, simple hill fort. Although it is on the crest of the hill, it’s not a steep slope, and the surrounding trees mean the view is patchy. But without the trees this would have been a very stunning and commanding position, especially on the north side.

Well signposted from the carpark. Some of the walk is steep, and uneven. All on National Trust openland.

Dewerstone Settlement – 21.6.2004

I knew nothing about this site except for what I could see on the map, which showed a semi circular earthwork on top of the hill, and a homestead within the enclosed area.

The whole area is National Trust land so it is open access. The settlement can be approached over Wigford Down (a much flatter route), or from the river valley below. Many walkers in the area park at Shaugh Bridge. Or Cadover Bridge, but this is further away. There is no vehicular access into the actual National Trust land (e.g. from Goodameavy).

There isn’t much to see though, especially with the dense bracken. The paths are cleared of bracken but not the rest of the hill top. Presumably the semi circular earthwork would have cut the hill off from the rest of the downs.

The views from the nearby Dewerstone Rocks are stunning. But please treat the rocks below with care; two rock climbers died on them last year.

West Saddlesborough Hut Circles – 25.6.2004

See the page on the Stone Row & Cairn Circle for directions.

There are several hut circles in this area. Take your pick! I’ve just added pics on one of the best ones.

West Saddlesborough Cairn – 25.6.2004

See the page on the Stone Row & Cairn Circle for directions.

About 50 metres from the start point you should notice a cairn. It’s possibly a rather ruined kerbed cairn.

West Saddlesborough – Stone Row & Cairn Circle – 25.6.2004

I knew nothing about this site except for what I could see on the map, which showed a litter of boundary work and hut circles, plus a cairn circle and a stone row, running for about 175 metres from SX554634 to SX555636

No obvious places to park. Best I could do was to find a suitable snippet of land off the road (which runs from Cadover Bridge towards Wotter). The whole area east of the road is Access Land. Probably the simplest place to start and to get your bearings is from the road side cross and footpath (marked with a tiny ankle height marker) circa SX552634.

The area is a litter of old field boundaries and hut circles, with bracken added in for fun (however, some of it has been recently cut away from around any archaeological features). I think I found the cairn circle and stone row. About 50 metres from the start point you should notice a cairn. Another 75 metres on from this (towards Saddlesborough summit) you should start to spot a low ditch and bank of some old boundary work accompanied by the first of several hut circles in the area. The map suggested the Cairn Circle is just to the north of this. I traced some stones in a circle in this area but it as definitely one of the days when you wonder whether you are seeing stone circles because you are looking for them or because you really are in the right place? All stones were tiny except for one massive stone! By the by, as you get slightly higher there are suddenly great views south, over Plymouth and out to sea.

However the good news is that there is what seems to be a long row of stones leading away from this area, down the hill. And an easy way to spot it is to look for one of the star shaped markers in his area (see pics above). I walked the line and counted 53 stones. The row seems to curve at the end as the slope gets steeper. The row ends about seven metres from a small gulley and a sign that marks the boundary with the Shaugh Lake part of the china clay works.

Drizzlecombe Complex – 23.6.2004

This is such an amazing complex, but I made the cardinal sin of not having hardly any time to visit. It definately does deserve a few hours, and it a bit of a trek to get to.

Directions – Again, I basically agree with the travel instructions on the Megalithic Walks link below, but be slightly warned that despite this being marginal land everywhere there don’t seem to be hardly any spaces to actually park at his so-called car park!

For the less mobile, or for those who want a more a sure footed route towards Drizzlecombe an alternative route for part of the way is to walk along the well made track towards Ditsworthy Warren House. This track starts from a fork just as you come towards the car park and winds around Gutter Tor and over to the house.

As you round Ditsworthy Warren House, you will soon seen the Drizzlecombe complex in the distance, which emphasises just how large two of the stones are. Don’t be tempted (as I was, like a kid seeing a sweet shop) to head straight for the stones in the distance. It can get pretty marshy that way. As you head down the hill bear slightly right, it’s definately a bit drier that way.

I can’t say much about the Drizzlecombe complex except please visit, and please allow some time to marvel at all the various remains in the area. The complex is in a remarkable bowl with various hills and minor Tors hemming it in.

Ringmoor Stone Row and Cairn Circle – 25.6.2004

I thought I was going mad trying to find this. I mean, how hard can it be with a map and compass, good weather, and knowing where you are starting from (Brisworthy Stone Circle)? When I did get here it seemed like a lot more that 300 metres from the Stone Circle. It was probably a mix of it being uphill, across long-ish tufty moorland, and not being able to see the cairn circle until you get pretty close to it (I had mistakenly interpreted the directions from the Megalithic Walks website link below to think it could be seen from all around – it can’t be seen unless you are on the plateau). Don’t be fooled into thinking that stones over to the west might be the ones you want. They aren’t. Just head directly uphill (north or NNW) from the stone circle and you will find Ringmoor.

The cairn circle is nice if a little wild and windswept. You do start to get a feeling of being on the top of the world now, with views all around, and the Princeton TV Transmitter looking like you could reach out and touch it (it’s actually about 8km away). The row leads away from the circle and is very clear. However, I couldn’t find the small kerbed cairn said by Burl to be about 240m along the row. At first I thought I was going mad, but then I seriously started to believe that it could have been destroyed in recent years?

By the by, the black line marked on the 1:25,000 map, going straight through the row, is not a field wall, so don’t expect a large wall as I did. It’s probably a reave; an ancient field boundary ditch and bank.

Brisworthy Stone Circle – 25.6.2004

Directions – I basically agree with the travel instructions on the Megalithic Walks link below. However, the hamlet of Brisworthy is definitely not the organised little cluster as the OS map suggests. It’s basically a couple of very rough working farms and a few houses, so parking is not clear or in abundance. And just to clarify that after walking up the lane there only seems to be one way out of that parcel of land, towards the stone circle. As the short lane ends keep towards the left hand wall of the field (signposted as the official path) and a stile leads you into the large field / moor land, circa SX562654 (i.e. there doesn’t seem to be a way out of this land directly towards to the circle). People with disabilities may obviously struggle with this stile. There is a gate next to it, but it was padlocked.

You’ll then find the circle 300 metres, due east, near the field boundary. This is clearly the ‘show’ circle in this area. South West Dartmoor has several cairn circles, and stones in some sort of circle, but this is the only really showy stone circle.

After several days of rain, I was blessed with sun tan weather which really made a rest at the stones a lovely prospect. Views towards Trowlesorthy (south east) and Legis Tor (east) are brilliant. With a keen eye the Stone Circle can be spotted from the Trowlesorthy area, partly hidden by some of the very few trees in the area.

Technically this doesn’t seem to be Access Land, but the chances of anyone stopping you seem remote, assuming you’re following the basic rules of the countryside.

Symonds Yat – 24.4.2004

The OS map shows three parallel lines of defences on the south side of the Symonds Yat Rock, and an extra bank at the west end. This would have attempted to cut the whole of Huntsham Hill off from the mainland, with the River Wye surrounding it on three sides.

They are situated on the west side of the road (B4432), just to the south of the entrance to the car park for people with disabilities. Three lines of banks and ditches are clearly visible (but not large), with the northern one being the largest. This one seems to straddle the road as well. This is not actually the high ground in the area, and the defences are slight, so this seems to be a relatively low-key attempt at any sort of ‘defence’.

The nearby Yat Rock is a major viewpoint in the area and is well worth a visit. Another excellent viewpoint exists just off the east side of the road, opposite the banks and ditches.

The Long Stone (Staunton) – 25.4.2004

This is a very impressive chunky stone, marred only by being so close to the road and thus taking on a bit of a novelty factor. It is quite literally 2 metres from the edge of the road, on the north side.

It must be more than 7ft tall because my 6’ 5” friend stood next to it and quite a lot of it went over his head. I’d say it must be close-ish to 8ft tall.

Harold’s Stones – 25.4.2004

First things first – these are ENORMOUS! After several trips in Cornwall (and other places) searching out the minor league stones and barrows, I’d almost forgotten what things like this looked like.

None of the posts on here actually said how big they are, and the only other report I had read also didn’t mention the height, and the pic I saw made them look distinctly human size. I hadn’t read the page in the TMA book before going – oops. However it actually made it better by not knowing what to expect. The largest stone (the cock stone as Jane says – or the ‘Cock Rock’ I reckon!) is actually about 14 ft tall and dwarfed us all.

The middle stone is strangely circular and looks a bit like a missile ready to fire. The third stone then looks a little out of place, as it is the smallest and most upright, is less rough and crumbly, and is more of a shape that you would find in a stone circle.

King Arthur’s Cave – 24.4.2004

I don’t think I’ll try to explain much about how to get here because we came via a walk along the river and a detour up to the stunning views off the Seven Sisters Rocks. Personally I’d say that the easiest way is probably from a mini layby at SO548157, a hundred metres or so before you get to the bigger car park (circa SO548158) that is at the edge of the entrance to the Biblins Camp Site. From this layby head south down a track, past the old quarry on your left, and then you will come across several sets of caves on your left (opposite a lovely grassy field on your right). The caves range from large ones to tiny holes and possible rock shelters. Given a lack of information over which one exactly is ‘King Arthur’s Cave’, I can’t say for certain if the most impressive one is King Arthur’s Cave or not. Oh well; they were all pretty atmospheric anyway.

Badbury Rings – 3.4.2004

A lovely big hill fort, but so popular that there are obvious signs of erosion.

As others have said the trees on top aren’t as bad as you might think. At first I scoffed when I saw a panoramic plate on the summit. But given a day with better visibility I imagine you could actually see quite a lot from here (including neighbouring hill forts), through the trees.

Two car parks available. The main car park is the signposted one at ST960033 and is open 9am to 8pm between April and October, and from 9am to 4pm between November and March. The car park is used for point to point races on a few days each year, when a charge is made, and it might get full. The three races for 2004 have all now been and gone, so I think visitors shouldn’t find any problems for the rest of this year.

There is also a smaller car park, a bit further away at ST967023. This is on the south east side of the hill fort, next to the main road.

Or if you’ve just visited the Kingston Lacy Estate you could walk from there. It’s about 2½ to 3 kms.

Badbury Rings Barrow Cemetery – 3.4.2004

Three well preserved barrows, in a line, just to the west of the hill fort (next to the track to the main car park). Like three big jelly mounds of earth! Compared to all sorts of degraded and scrubby barrows I had just visited in Cornwall, these are almost like picture perfect barrows.

Very easy to find as you need to drive past them to get to the main car park, or you will walk past them if you walk into the National Trust land from the main entrance.

Halfway Wall Cairn – 30.3.2004

This cairn is only about 100m north of halfway wall. Despite it’s tiny height (the English Heritage report says 0.11m high – that’s 11cm!) this is easier to spot than many of the other cairns on the island, because 1, it’s a relative high point in the area, 2, it’s close to the 4x4 track, and 3, there are lynchets running from it.

Chambered Stone Dwelling – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13274613

Well I thought I had found this. I was definitely in the right place but the English Heritage directions fail to mention that there are two rocky outcrops in the area. After the natural spring there is an outcrop of rocks after barely 10 metres, and then another 20/30m further on. And the directions say the dwelling is “tucked under a rock outcrop” – do they mean literally under the rock on the cliff edge? So which one is it closest to? Well there is some sort of dwelling between the two, on the cliff top, and it’s pretty stunning, with rooms that can be made out. BUT a pic on the National Trust leaflet (’The Archaeology of Lundy’) shows what I think I found and labels it as a “ruined medieval building on the east coast”. The more I think about it, the more I think I didn’t find the ancient site. Needed more time. I’m disappointed because this is a unique dwelling on Lundy and sounded cool.

Ackland’s Moor Cairns (North) – 30.3.2004

There are two Cairns listed, very close together towards the north part of the moor. One is at SS13234478. As this is clipped by a shallow quarry pit on the south west side, it’s pretty easy to locate. As with most Lundy Cairns there is little to see. But the quarry pit pond does add a little photogenic quality to this one though.

The other is at SS13194473. Given limited time I gave this one a miss, but given that the other nearby cairn is easy to locate, I imagine this could be found via that cairn if need be.

Ackland’s Moor Standing Stone (West) – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13084458

Thanks to the detailed English Heritage directions I definitely found this stone. I would add though that this is not in a ‘wall’ as you and I might think of as a field wall. It should really be described as the last remains of an old field wall, i.e. you can clearly see a few stones that are in some sort of line, but that’s all. The ‘standing stone’ does stand out because it is very wide (1.4m – actually slightly wider than it is tall) and like most of the Lundy stones it is not earthfast (i.e. it is set on the ground rather than in the ground and has stones packed around its base to keep it upright).

Ackland’s Moor Hut Circle & Enclosure – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13044451

This is a probable Bronze Age hut circle & enclosure. I was definitely in the right area for this (well, I was definitely in the area English Heritage described; 30m from the cliff edge and 30m south of a natural spring) but not convinced I could see on the ground exactly what the English Heritage report mentions. Stunning location though. Not a bad place to live on a nice day like this, but being on the west side of the island it would get the Atlantic winds!

Ackland’s Moor Cairn Stones – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13244460

Took me quite some time to be relatively happy that I had found this site. There are a lot of stones in the area and this cairn is not obvious! And if I did find this cairn then I didn’t find the standing stone that the English Heritage focuses on. Maybe it has fallen? There were definately no 1.4m tall standing stones in this whole area.

There is a very distinct large stone on the ground, and apart from spotting this stone there is no obvious way of getting to this spot again. This large stone looks like a classic schoolboy drawing of a penis and scrotum!

Ackland’s Moor Standing Stone (north) -30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13264445

Another easy one to spot! Probably even easier to spot that the Ackland’s Moor Standing Stone (south) just 70m to the south, because this one is a really thick stone.

Ackland’s Moor Standing Stone (south) – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13284435

At last, something easy to find! This stone, despite still only being 1.45m tall, sticks out like a sore thumb, about 100m north east of the Old Light. I took a pic with a lamb close to it – aaah.

Beacon Hill Settlement – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13224425

The Iron Age hut circles here are not that easy to spot except one which stands out as quite an obvious circle (but it’s still not exactly Chysauster!). The circles are in the area 20m or so south of the wall of the ‘Old Light’ (the old Lighthouse).

Beacon Hill Stones – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13194409

I think I found this standing stone. It’s not obvious. In general I need to point out that the principle of ‘livestock rubbing posts’ doesn’t seem to exist on Lundy because most of the nine standing stones recognised by English Heritage on the island are not the right size to be considered as Bronze Age menhirs in Cornwall.

South West Field Stone & Cairn – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13314381

I think I found this site. A small standing stone with a flat cairn behind it.

Rocket Pole Pond Chambered Tomb – 30.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref (from English Heritage scheduling) = SS13624372

I’m really annoyed that I didn’t find this because it’s the only chambered tomb on the island. Although the English Heritage directions say “165m north east of Rocket Pole Pond”, at this point I couldn’t find it (!) and was wondering if it was covered in one of the pockets of bracken that inhabit this area of the west side. When I got home I realised that the 8 digit grid ref places it actually only 20m south and 20m west of the Tent Field Fives Stones Monolith; which I had found (SS13624372 & SS13644374). Shame I didn’t realise this at the time. I suspect that either the EH directions are wrong (North north east maybe?), or the grid ref of one of the sites is wrong.

Tent Field Menhir (south west) – 30.3.2004

Due to the lack of time I just peered at this from over the wall. It is right next to the wall in the south west corner of the field (called ‘Tent Field’). This is 2.2 m long and would have been a very substantial stone when erect (if erect?).

The whole day was great, but fraught with small problems. It was great to see 100 people interested enough to want to visit this island and help keep it alive. I’d like to go again, but with more knowledge of these problems, and either on a longer day trip, or to stay for several days.

Be warned, traffic in Barnstaple can be a nightmare, especially if you need to get through Barnstaple to get to Illfracombe. Cars stretched along the A3125 back from the centre to the A39. After a while in a jam I realised the car in front had a sticker that read ‘Barnstaple – Home of the Traffic Jam’. Nice one!

Parking info for Illfracombe was poor. The letter with my ticket said info would be given when you arrive. When I phoned up I was given a vague “long term parking is on the other side of the quay”. It seems stupid to give this info out just before the ship sails when people are trying to book late tickets, collect tickets etc. And then the advice was dodgy, sending us up to a £2 car park a long way up the hill opposite the quay, whereas I learnt later that the car park at the bottom of this hill was only £2.80 a day, which if you ask me is worth the extra 80p, especially if the Barnstaple gridlock has made you later than you expected. If you come before mid May, or later in the season, there is also a chance you could park in one of the Illfracombe streets for free. Check the restrictions.

The boat trip is currently (2004) £28 for a day return (£25 concessions, including National Trust members). Or £42 for a period return. Helicopters run in the winter for £69. All these are for adult prices. Fine website (see link below) including online booking facility for day trips.

The road/path from the jetty on Lundy is long and steep. Not surprising really considering Lundy is like a huge slab of granite plonked in the ocean, but I thought I’d warn you all. The top of the island is mainly a plateau (120 to 140 metres above sea level), however, even this plateau is undulating and although the coastal paths are quite obvious, not all the paths are. Luckily you can walk just about anywhere you want as long as you abide by the common sense country code and close the few gates that are around. There is also a 4x4 track running the length of the island, which you might prefer to use to get places. It is quite rocky but still easier walking for some than the smaller paths. Lundy and the boat (MS Oldenburg) have no special disability facilities, however they say they will try to help and adapt as best they can for people with disabilities.

Weather conditions change rapidly and even on a nice day (like my day) you can still have bad sea (or land) conditions. It took us 20 minutes to dock and only later I heard there had been a strong possibility that we wouldn’t be able to get off the boat. So don’t assume anything and be prepared for possible changes / disappointments.

The boat says it takes up to 267 passengers. I’d hate to see it with that many on it! Most places to sit (inside and outside) were taken with only 120 people on board and on a nice day. The booking section on their website tells you how many tickets have been sold so far so you could use this to pick a quiet-ish trip, however I’m not sure how accurate it is.

The boat also seems to make up the rules as it goes along and doesn’t always tell you things. We were clearly told the boat would leave at 3.30pm (incidentally, slightly earlier than we expected when booking) and you can embark from 3pm. So, as I returned through the village at 3.05, knowing I’d make it by 3.10/3.15 I felt pretty happy with my timing. But no, I was told by the shopkeeper they were sailing at 3. Rush etc! I was met by a Land Rover on the coast road that took me the last 500 metres, and was given the impression by some people that I had held everyone up. In reality we had actually left 15 mins early. What they don’t tell you is that once everyone expected is aboard they will leave, so 3.30 was the latest time, not necessarily the actual time it will leave. I’m not saying they would have left without me, but I was narked for having to feel like I’d been late (I’m a pretty punctual person), and for having to worry that they might leave without me! Half of me felt grateful they had ‘waited’, half felt annoyed they made me look like a latecomer and people were asking me ‘what happened?’ Note – remember that most people just go for a quick walk on the south bit of the island and settle down in the village. Most won’t go wandering like I did (and you might).

And the shopkeeper had said “Didn’t you hear the foghorn blasts? That means they are ready to leave”. Well, fecking sorry if my father didn’t give me a seafaring lesson when I was 4 years old! How am I supposed to know things that I’m not informed about? I’m an intelligent enough person. Inform me of something and I’ll do my best to understand it and ask questions if I need to, but this assumption of knowledge / lack of info was really annoying.

A National Trust leaflet called ‘The Archaeology of Lundy’ was available on the boat for 50p. Apparently a more substantial booklet might be available at the Island shop but I never got the chance to find out more due to the above problems.

A free Lundy leaflet, advertising the island and the boat schedule, includes a slightly magnified version of the 1:25,000 OS map, so no need to buy the OS map unless you really want to.

Trehundreth Downs Stone Setting – 31.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref = SX12587292

I found this from the Trehundreth Downs Stone Row. There is a good picture of this in Peter Herring and Peter Rose’s ‘Bodmin Moor’s Archaeological Heritage’ (Cornwall County Council – 2001). This excellent book writes “next to a cairn on Trehundreth Downs is a setting of three uprights in an arc, as if to define a forecourt-like area where rites could be performed against hills under the great expanse of the upland sky”. Although their description is a bit strange to what is on the ground and their interpretation surprisingly flowery compared to the rest of the book, it proved very useful to help me find this.

Trehundreth Downs Stone Row – 31.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid refs = SX12477292 to 12757302

Not that much to see. I was tired by this point so didn’t count or plot what I could see. I found this difficult to find from the west. Easier to find from either Greenbarrow or the Greenbarrow Downs Cairns. From any of these walk north west and you should walk right through the row! The row is low and small. One bonus is that you can clearly spot the Trehundreth Downs Stone Setting from this row. If you want to see a totally different type of row (tall, long and chunky) pop over the A30 and try to find Colvannick Tor Stone Row.

Greenbarrow Downs Cairns – 31.3.2004

The OS map marks two cairns very close to the Greenbarrow. One is obvious to spot at SX131730. The other, marked at SX129730 didn’t seem obvious to me.

Greenbarrow – 31.3.2004

Marked on the OS map. A large, easy to spot barrow. It literally is green and sticks out amongst the brown downland. One stone is stuck in the edge of the barrow as if it might be the last remnant of a kerb. A faint ditch also seems to circle as least part of the barrow.

Another Trehundreth Downs Cairn – 31.3.2004

Marked on the OS map. I didn’t look for this.

Trehundreth Downs Cairn – 31.3.2004

Marked on the OS map. I can’t say for certain that I found this unless it is the small mound aligned just to the west of Trehundreth Downs Stone Setting / Row.

Trehundreth Downs Stone Setting / Row -31.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref = SX12527274

An interesting row / setting of 3 large stones, one of which is still standing. Quite easy to spot form afar and from all around the Downs, which thankfully makes it easier to find than some of the other things around

Trehundreth Downs Menhir – 31.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref = SX12427281

Marked on the OS map. I don’t think I found this. It was all getting a bit confusing at this point. The OS map, the text and pictures in Peter Herring and Peter Rose’s ‘Bodmin Moor’s Archaeological Heritage’ (Cornwall County Council – 2001) and the text, drawing and pictures in Cheryl Straffon’s guide ‘The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)’ (Meyn Mamvro – 1993, amended 2000) all help, but also can confuse. I think I have helped pull this info together, but without a repeat visit with a GPS system I don’t think some of these mysteries will be solved.

Trehundreth Downs Menhir / markstone -31.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid ref = SX12537258

Cheryl Straffon’s guide ‘The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)’ (Meyn Mamvro – 1993, amended 2000) reports a “small menhir or markstone at SX12537258. Walking towards this mark stone on the top of the rise the Colvannick Tor Stone Row comes into view across the A30”.

Easy to spot as it lies in an area of the Downs with little bracken and few stones. However it is extremely small and very reminiscent of two boundary / marker stones I saw on the Downs, and the pitiful Peverell’s Cross. It has about 60cm of stone above ground, with an extra 25cm as part of the ‘pit’ it stands in. However, from my memory this stone doesn’t have any letters carved on it, unlike the boundary markers elsewhere on the Downs. Curious.

Elsewhere in the Straffon booklet she writes that Trehundreth Downs Menhir is aligned to a cairn, and this stone. Add to this the Colvannick Tor Stone Row and “evidently all these stones were part of a special alignment, and perhaps a spirit path of the dead associated (sic) with the burial mounds here”. Maybe Straffon wants this to be a menhir, rather than a boundary stone, because it is conveniently aligned to the stone row?

Colvannick Tor Stone Row – 31.3.2004

Full 8 figure grid refs = SX12817189 to 12937163.

One easy-ish way to get here is to park at the picnicy area mentioned in the Trehundreth & Greenbarrow Downs section, and hop over the fence into the firled to the south. Follow the fence along to the west until a footpath starts at SX128723 (the path isn’t actually visible on the ground!). This skirts around the large pond. You will need an OS map and even then the stone row can be difficult to spot. I was confused by the field boundary the map showed on the east side of Colvannick Tor. In reality this is not a wall but maybe an ancient boundary; a sort of low bank and slight ditch. If like me you find the stone row difficult to find, head up to the Tor and the northern most stone should be clearly visible due east, about 300 metres away. From this stone you can take a compass bearing south east and walk the line of the row (sometimes through gorse!). There aren’t many obvious stones until you reach the southern stones, one of which is large and still upright and can also be seen from the Tor. Beyond this stone there are a few large but fallen stones, and then one final stone 80m or so further on; a very large stone, semi erect. By this point you’ll be able to see a few red and white poles in the distance, presumably warning poles for the ‘Danger Area’ on Cardinham Moor.

In all I counted 3 standing stones (2 of which were large), 1 semi erect (the large southern end stone), 5 fallen (all large), 2 broken stones together, and around 10 possible smaller stones, all fallen or just stumps. This is the best stone row in Cornwall. Harder to find and interpret than the more famous, and still brilliant, Nine Maidens row, but more rewarding and challenging.

From the stone row you can clearly see the small possible Trehundreth Downs Menhir / markstone that aligns with it on Trehundreth Downs across the road.

There are ponies and sheep all around, and some sampy area around the large pond. Gorse and brambles line the A30 so getting over to Trehundreth Downs is not that easy. One simple way is by retracing your steps to where the footpath starts on the south side. Opposite this there is a gate into Trehundreth Downs on the north side of this very busy dual carriageway.

Cheryl Straffon’s guide ‘The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)’ (Meyn Mamvro – 1993, amended 2000) writes that “Colvannick Tor itself as probably named after the stones, meaning is it does in English ‘erect penis’, an indication of an ancient awareness of the phallic nature of the stones, and hinting at fertility rites performed here.” I wonder if that’s the first mention of an erect penis on this website? Probably not!

Cranbrook Castle Hill Fort – 1.4.2004

After a hard afternoon on the Moors I decided to cheat my way to the top of Cranbrook Castle. I’m sure it’s probably a nice walk from Fingle Bridge up to Cranbrook Down, but it’s also a climb of about 220metres of height in only one kilometre! So I noticed the access from the south, which involved only a short walk and climb (and one gate). A small triangle of land exists at SX748888, which I guessed might be easy to park at. Well, despite a quaint little metal bench being there (suggesting a lovely spot to stop at), it’s actually a muddy lane and was full of forested trees (ranging from enormous to small)! Instead I found somewhere to park just off the country lane. In this tiny triangle of land an old trig pillar has been set up. This was originally put on Cranbrook Castle in February 1949 but was later made redundant and moved there in 1993 by the Parish Council.

The ramparts are pretty impressive, especially on the south side, although the gorse makes it hard to explore too much. At 357 metres above sea level this is a real high point in the area. The opposite hill fort of Prestonbury Castle is visible, as are panoramic views across Dartmoor. Lovely.

Scorhill Stone Circle – 1.4.2004

Getting from the Shovel Down Complex to Scorhill is easy (although I would still always recommend an OS map on any sort of moorland). Just continue on after the northern stone rows and you will see the trees and massive stone walls of Batworthy Farm run across the edge of the moor on your right hand side. Even on a day of seriously reducing visibility it was easy to see the wall and trees ahead. As you come to the end of the wall, suddenly Scorhill is visible on the opposite bank of the river. Excellent!

You have two choices to cross the beautiful rushing Teign. Either straight ahead to a rough and small bridge made of a massive block of stone, or you can head about 80m upstream and over two bridges, one of which is a classic picturesque Clapper Bridge. The area around here though can get really muddy, so the other one could be better for some people, although it is a rockier and steeper walk.

The circle is a real stunner and today was quite well visited (which was a nice shock after many days on Moors without seeing a soul!). I saw two people with a dog arriving just after I left, and another person when I returned.

Coming back from the Buttern Hill Stone Circle I noticed that only the large pointy stone on the north side of the circle is the only stone visible from that direction until quite close to the circle.

Shovel Down Complex – 1.4.2004

The instructions on the megalithic walks website (see link below) are excellent. Just a couple of additions though. First, to be clear that the bridge mentioned (i.e. where to park) is just outside Batworthy Farm, at SX662866. The space near the bridge should take 4 to 5 cars. I also saw cars parked at various small places off the road over the common, but the bridge area is better and more sensible. Secondly, the journey through the lanes is pretty tortuous, but at least you shouldn’t get lost if you have an OS map. Once successfully on the right road (after the crucial junction at SX690870), it is pretty much follow the road and don’t take any of the turnings off the lane. To avoid some of the earlier lanes try the B3206 to Chagford from the A382. Be careful to avoid the Range Rovers though! Judging from the cars and the shops this ancient Stannary town looks like a squeaky clean Devon version of Hampstead!

As you walk up towards Batworthy Corner, the north east most row comes clearly into view. A few hundred metres on and you’ve experienced your first bit of Shovel Down! This first row leads to an intriguing circle of three concentric stone circles. Up and over the hill and the enormous long stone suddenly comes into view. This massive, enigmatic stone has lots of stones around its base. Are they modern? They somehow don’t look quite right. The southern stone row (as shown on the OS map) basically doesn’t exist; there is nothing there.

I believe I found the remaining one of the ‘Three Boys’, but it is 70% fallen. From here, if you know where you are looking you can just see the top of the Long Stone. It would be interesting to know if it could be seen from the top of the three boys when it was / they were erect.

There must be 3 rows to the north, not just two as the OS map shows. The middle row starts and continues further away from the others, and is a good way to walk onwards to Scorhill.

When I later returned to the bridge I was led down the rocky path by a dog from Batworthy Farm, like Lassie leading an injured child!

Pencarrow Rings Hill Slope Fort – 31.3.2004

Pencarrow House is a historic house and garden open to the public. The entrance and long driveway is off Old School Lane, which connects the A389 and B3266 near Washaway. Well signposted. The ‘hill fort’ is 300metres from this entrance and is literally split in two by the driveway up to the house. You’ll probably notice that it’s not on much of a hill, and it isn’t the highest local point. A hill slope fort in reality. As there were signs saying ‘No waiting’ and ‘No stopping on the driveway’ I thought fair enough, it’s your grounds, so your rules and decided to park just outside the gates and walk in.

The ramparts are very impressive. Shame the road goes right through them! Although these ramparts and ditches are impressive it does make you wonder how much space was left to live or shelter. In some places the gap between the inner and outer ring is up to 24m but still that’s not much if you think about it. On the west side an incomplete annexe can be seen (cut by the road).

Buttern Hill Stone Circle – 1.4.2004

I knew absolutely nothing about this site before visiting. I just saw it on the map and decided to make it an extension to my visit to Shovel Down and Scorhill. If anyone knows of any ‘official’ name for it please tell me and I’ll change it.

Although Bodmin Moor is much smaller, it is often a much harder place to walk than Dartmoor. A shortish walk on Dartmoor seems relatively easy to me, except for the fog and the lack of obvious features to map read by. Dartmoor felt drier than the Cornish uplands and there are ‘paths’ everywhere in this section of Dartmoor. Not obvious or marked paths but just loads of small paths (livestock paths?) that mean you don’t have to yomp over uneven ground.

So, from Scorhill to Buttern Hill Stone Circle you basically just need to skirt round the south west side of Buttern Hill. When you see some watery ground at the bottom of the valley between Buttern Hill and Rippator, you’re getting close. But don’t go right down to this lowest point. Stay mid way up the gentle slope and continue for about 300 metres and the circle should be there. It is not easy to spot / see. If you see some stones in this area, check them out; they could be the circle. I counted 5 stones still standing, and 15 recumbant, ranging from large ones to tiny stones that seem to be inline with a circle.

It’s a sad circle and obviously overshadowed by Scorhill, which is easier to get to and more ‘beautiful’. But I have great sympathy for this circle. It’s the underdog and I guess it was once beautiful.

Mardon Down Stone Circle – 3.4.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.

I knew absolutely nothing about this. I just saw the area on the map and decided to make it a stop off point on my way home.

Once I found it (not knowing whether it would be an obvious stone circle, or one of those fallen ones covered in gorse!) I realised that it should be simple for others to find. Just walk along the top of the hill until you reach a small piece of wooden fencing with a sign on it that reads “To help conserve the archaeological site please follow the path to he left/right*. Thank you.” (* says left in one direction and right in the opposite). The stone circle is between these signs. I counted 17 obvious stones (most recumbent), and imagine that there will be others hidden in the gorse.

I believe that what Johan had previously added as the Giant’s Grave is actually the stone circle. The large stone that four of his pictures show is (in my humble opinion) actually just one stone in the circle (the largest). The OS map is a bit of a pain because it has the general phrase ‘Giant’s Grave’ on without actually definitely directing this to any of the ancient sites themselves. I would imagine that it either just generally means that the area has ancient graves on the top of a hill, or maybe refers to the two cairns at SX767874. I doubt it has anything to do with a long barrow. I hadn’t read Johan’s post before visiting the area.

Mardon Down Cairns – 3.4.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.

There are 4 cairns marked on the OS map. Two are apparently where the track kinks to the right half way between the stone circle and the cairn circle (SX767874). And two are supposed to be very close to the stone circle, one shown on the map as maybe 50 metres south of the stone circle, and one immediately north of the stone circle. Hmmm, well I didn’t look for the northern two because I wanted to see the cairn circle and then go.

But I did find what I thought was a kerbed cairn just a few metres south of the stone circle. However that doesn’t tally with the map. Curious.

Cleave Burial Chamber – 3.4.2004

I knew absolutely nothing about this. I just saw it on the map and decided to make it a stop off on my way to Mardon Down. If anyone knows of any ‘official’ name for it please tell me and I’ll change it.

I can’t really describe how to get here. You’ll most probably need an OS map to find it in the lanes, although actually it’s not far from the main A382 road.

The lane that leads past the field the little chamber is in is very narrow and it’s not easy to find anywhere to park. I found somewhere about a field away and just had a quick peak into the field. The chamber is tiny, and there are other stones around that take away what little presence it might have. It reminded me of the moment in Spinal Tap when a tiny model of a Stonehenge trilithon comes down onto the stage!

Mardon Down – 3.4.2004

I approached via Moretonhampstead but in the jumble of roads and junctions in the middle of the small town I couldn’t honestly give good directions to find the lane that leads up to the downs! I can say that it isn’t signposted at all and it might have been ‘School Lane’(?). I just felt the lane was the right one judging from the OS map. If you then go down and back up a dip, and pass Addiscott on your right you are on the right lane! I left the downs due south, onto the B3212 (which by the way is a really twisty and narrow B road for much of its length), which was really easy so this might be a better way.

This is all Access Land, so you can roam at will. There is a sort of ‘car park’ at SX762873. If you are coming onto the common from the south west, take the road to the right (marked ‘Exeter’) and it’s 200m up the road on the left. However, all it is is the only tarmaced area on the common. No facilities. In fact when I was there most of it was taken up with mounds of gravel. In reality people park all over the downs as most of the roads have clear spaces off of them at intervals (and they aren’t passing places).

There are loads of paths all over the downs. All seem pretty basic and liable to mud. Some might get overgrown in summer. Gorse almost everywhere. The car park is a relatively convenient place to park as there is a clear path up to the top. However this is a bit more of a climb (55m in height in a 500m walk) than from the south end.

The track that is marked on the OS map that goes across the top of the hill doesn’t really live up to it’s billing and exists only in places as a track wide enough for a 4x4. Some of the time it’s just like a footpath, and can be boggy. But it is a convenient way to help find the ancient sties on this hill.

At 356 metres above sea level there are not surprisingly brilliant views from the hill.

Mardon Down Cairn Circle – 3.4.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.

This is relatively easy to find because it is quite striking and because it’s next to the junction of two relatively clear paths up the hill, one from the east and one from the north. I imagine that with more undergrowth it could be slightly less obvious.

This is a beauty. I’m not very used to cairn circles (not many in Southern England) but I would imagine with could be a pretty fine example, with nine standing stones, plus several recumbent and/or out of place. Despite the drizzle and mist the views were still spectacular.

Brown Willy Settlement – 28.3.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for the Brown Willy Cairns.

In a field on the south east edge of the slopes of Brown Willy there is what I assume is a Bronze Age settlement. I know nothing about this site – just what I saw on the OS map – and haven’t seen it mentioned in any of my books. Given that the area is littered with a variety of settlements, I imagine this is pretty much the same as others. Despite the moorland undergrowth several roundhouse are quite clearly visible and worth a quick visit if you have any energy left at this point.

Brown Willy Cairns – 28.3.2004

For directions as far as Catshole Downs, see the main Catshole Downs page, and the Tolborough Downs page.

Well, if you’ve got as far as Catshole and still want some hard walking you might as well bag the highest point in Cornwall, Brown Willy.

And from the east side of the fence on Catshole Downs it is pretty easy to get to, if a hard slog. Carry on North, close to the fence / old field wall. Cross into the next field. After 1½ kms a rocky outcrop will be visible on your right. Continue by the fence for 100m and a stile lets you into the field on the east side of Brown Willy. A recognisable (but unmarked) path takes you across the field and straight up Brown Willy to its highest point. This ‘path’ is just a boggy lumpy track but it is obvious that people / livestock have used it, and its direction straight to the northern cairn on Brown Willy is useful. It’s a very steep climb to the top (only about a 75m rise but all steep!). As I made the last step onto the plateau at the top I surprised several sheep that dashed past me. I bet they weren’t as knackered as I was!

Even on an intermittently dull and drizzling day like this the views are not surprisingly amazing, across Rough Tor to the north west and Colliford Lake several kilometres south east.

The south cairn on Brown Willy aligns with the west cairn on Catshole Tor, the Tolborough Tor Cairn, and the the Catshole Long Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Note – this is very much the unofficial and (probably) much harder route to Brown Willy. I did it this way so I could get Tolborough, Catshole and Brown Willy all in one long walk. The real ‘permissive’ route seems to be the path on the map that enters Brown Willy from the north, from the Fernacre track (circa SX148797)