pure joy

Catshole Downs – 28.3.2004

For one way to get to the general area, see the Tolborough Downs page.

To get towards the Catshole Downs Long Cairn and the eastern Catshole Tor cairn, from Tolborough Tor head north to the gate in the angled bit of the field (circa SX171782). This leads you out towards these sites.

The Catshole Tor settlement and western Catshole Tor cairn are in the opposite field. From Tolborough Tor head for another gate, just to the west of the angled bit of the field. These gates are very close to each other. This leads you out towards these sites. Note that these four sites are in two separate fields with a fence in between.

Technically most land on Bodmin Moor is ‘private’ as it is owned by someone, even Downs and Common land. But in reality places like the Tolborough Downs are rarely visited by anyone or anything and as long as you use the normal common sense country code I don’t imagine anyone challenging you (don’t quote me though as some sort of magic access key!).

Catshole Tor Settlement – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.

I know nothing about this site – just what I saw on the OS map – and haven’t seen it mentioned in any of my books. Given that the area is littered with a variety of settlements, I imagine this is pretty much the same as others. I walked through the area on the map but couldn’t see anything obvious. The ground in this field is very uneven and hard work and by now I was too knackered to look too hard!

Catshole Tor Cairns – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.

The OS map shows two cairns on Catshole Tor, one on the east side (SX172786 – which I didn’t find), and one on the west side (SX170785). Note that they are in two separate fields with a fence in between. The western one is basically flattened but you can make out the circular shape and probably flanking stones. Ironically the clitter of stones around the area are more ‘obvious’ and larger than the actual cairn.

The west cairn on Catshole Tor aligns with the south cairn on Brown Willy, the Tolborough Tor Cairn, and the Catshole Long Cairn although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Catshole Downs Long Cairn – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.

This long trip is worth it for this alone. A huge rarity and relatively easy to find (once you get to the general area), especially if you’ve previously seen a picture of it. You can also spot it from Tolborough Tor.

From Tolborough Tor head for the gate in the angled bit of the field (circa SX171782). Note -the downs were pretty swampy in places when I visited (& more swampy than other upland areas in Devon & Cornwall). The Long Cairn is then 100m away just to the right of the old field wall.

What does a Long Cairn look like? Imagine a small long barrow, made of stones instead of earth, in a triangular shape, typically 17 to 30 m long sometimes with traces of internal structure. At Catshole you can see the large-ish front stone, and from there you can make out what might have been flanking stones, and a small litter of stones in the interior. They are of the fourth millennia BC.

Peter Herring and Peter Rose, in ‘Bodmin Moor’s Archaeological Heritage’ (Cornwall County Council – 2001), map three long cairns on the moor, with three other possibilities. They suggest that the Catshole long cairn is carefully aligned to the east part of Catshole Tor. What I can add is that the cairn in general does align with the west cairn on Catshole Tor, the south cairn on Brown Willy, and the Tolborough Tor Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Tolborough Tor Stone Row – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Tolborough Downs page.

Cheryl Straffon’s guide ‘The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)’ (Meyn Mamvro – 1993, amended 2000) says “On the top of the Tor is a large cairn, to the South East of which is an unusual miniature row of five small stones – SX17567786”. Well, yes, but I should add that it is VERY small and overgrown and that is hardly decipherable. It is also very close to cairn (the final, furthest stone is barely 8m from the cairn) so don’t go wandering off looking for it many metres away. This final stone is also now broken.

Tolborough Downs – 28.3.2004

There is probably no easy way to reach the barren Tolborough Tor, on the Tolborough Downs. However, one decent way is to start near Bolventor. Cheryl Straffon’s guide ‘The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)’ (Meyn Mamvro – 1993, amended 2000) says “A pathway behind Jamaica Inn crosses the bypass up to Tolborough Downs”. Umm, well, I doubt the first bit, unless she means the underpass to the East of Bolventor. There is no obvious route across the dangerous A30 otherwise.

I found a good place to park and start from, at SX182769, just a few metres from the footpath that leads to Tolborough Downs. If heading towards Launceston on the A30 take the turn off for Bolventor but then take a sharp left turn (signposted ‘Bolventor Church’) and another immediate sharp left (signposted the same). This dead end lane takes you parallel and above the north side of the A30. The footpath is clearly marked about 300m along this road. If you are driving towards Bodmin the principle is the same. Get off at the Bolventor turnoff but don’t go into Bolventor itself. Instead imagine you were trying to get on the A30 towards Launceston, and you will see the Bolventor Church signpost on the bend just before the A30 starts again.

This footpath takes you down a few fields (cows grazing) and across a stream to a few houses at Dairywell Hill. Keep to the right of the houses, through a farm looking gate and head up the very steep and rocky track. Carry on until you finally come out into the bottom of the field where Tolborough Tor lies. If you wanted a slightly less hilly/stony walk you might be able to approach (on foot) along the lane from the main road (at SX191777) towards Tober Barton Farm. Don’t know where you would be able to park on the main road though.

The Tor field was very rocky and very wet.

Tolborough Tor Cairn – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Tolborough Downs page.

This large cairn sits on top of the hill and is visible all around; a bump of green on the otherwise light brown hill.

The cairn aligns with the south cairn on Brown Willy, the west cairn on Catshole Tor, and the Catshole Long Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from this cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Council Barrow – 28.3.2004

If driving North on the A30 technically you can come off the A30 at SX100703 (just past the cow ‘traffic lights’), and the barrow is directly on your right. In reality this is one of those amazing Cornish dual carriageway turnoffs that give you very little chance to slow down. Making that turn at this tiny junction would be almost impossible unless you knew exactly where the turn was and you had no traffic behind you. The junction before this one is a bit better (circa SX092693).

So, otherwise you can come via the scrubby looking land from the west, either from the country lanes to the north west, or from Bodmin. From Bodmin take the Old Callywith Rd but instead of getting onto the A30 slip road (circa SX084679) take the road signposted ‘Helland’; and drive almost parallel to the A30 until you bear left and over two cattle grids. At the next junction take a right. At the end of this lane the Council barrow sits just off the A30 ‘junction’ in a sad little layby. What an absolute mess! Tyre tracks circle the barrow and also go straight up and over the top! Abandoned farm machinery also spoils it and I guess the farm gate on the North side also doesn’t help. Litter and fly tipping is also all around. When I get my picture back I’ll send a copy of it to the Cornwall Archaeological Unit. This may not be the most important ancient site in Cornwall but nothing deserves to be treated like this!

I was so shocked at this pitiful site and forgot to think how big it is. I’d guess about 15m in diameter and 2m high.

Castle Canyke Hill Fort – 28.3.2004

This ‘hill fort’ is best reached by a minor road that connects the A38 on the North side with ‘Castle Canyke Rd’ on the south side. Halfway along this lane there is a small place to park one car next to a gate with a boulder beside it.

As this is now under a Countryside Stewardship Scheme there is access, via a kissing gate into the north west section of the hill fort. There were obvious signs of cattle being grazed here. The ground is gently sloping and was pretty firm (not generally boggy), so it might be something a person with mobility problems could still visit, if they can negotiate the kissing gate.

The modern farm building at the crown of the hill acts like a hub of a wheel with the hill fort effectively being divided into four quarters by field walls/hedges.

The best preserved section is the south west section with quite a large bank and a small ditch. The north west section (near where you come in) has quite a substantial ditch but no obvious bank.

So, not much to see really, but still a nice position (with good views all around) and fortunately under good management and suffering very little from potential harm from the nearby A38 and A30.

Higher Longbeak Barrow – 29.3.2004

Although there is a small layby close to the barrow at Higher Longbeak, it’s on the brow of the hill and might be a bit difficult to get out of. It’s more sensible to park at the free car park right next to the barrow at Lower Longbeak, just north of Widemouth Bay.

This barrow lies on the edge of the Higher Longbeak headland, 700 m further up the coastal path from the first barrow. The walk between the two is pleasant but undulating, and the path is ragged in places, so it might not be suitable for some people with limited mobility.

The barrow is probably the ‘lump’ covered in thick black undergrowth to the west of the path, but it could possibly be the gorse covered lump to the east of the path. It’s not clear to me.

Lower Longbeak Barrow – 29.3.2004

There is a free car park right next to the barrow at Lower Longbeak, just north of Widemouth Bay. From this car park take the path out towards the headland and after 40m you will skirt the edge of this barrow. There is not much to see but it is clearly a small barrow, with a hollowed top, covered in gorse.

Hendraburnick Quoit – 2.4.2004

Wow, this is enormous! What a site this would have been before its collapse.

This is easily found in a field south of the road that connects the A39 near the Tich Barrow to Tintagel (signposted ‘Tintagel’ from the A39). I would say that the true grid ref is closer to SX132882.

It’s actually in the field directly opposite the driveway to Treslay Farm (and there is space to park in this area just off the road), although this field seems to sometimes be temporarily separated, and has two entrances. The Quoit is just inside the field at the crest of the rising land.

I didn’t actually check whose land it was on so just had a quite mooch [see note from Bugsy – Ed]. There was no livestock in the field (one gate was even open).

Lower Innisidgen Entrance Grave – St.Mary’s, Isles of Scilly – 3rd October 2003

For directions to both of the entrance graves please see the main Innisidgen page.

‘Lower Innisidgen Carn’ is the poorer relation but still retains a huge amount of dignity and presence, despite being on a slope, having only 2 capstones, and no fancy kerb (or renovation work, which I presume the Higher one has had).

Trippet Stones- 4.10.2003

On the way back to London I only had time to go to something close to the road, so the Trippet Stones were an ideal stop off. Really easy to access circle, and a very lovely looking one, with good views around bits of Bodmin Moor. It was also blowing a gale for me, but was worth it.

A tip – the turnoff from the A30, when travelling eastbound is the last turn-off on this single carriageway, just a few metres before the dual carriageway starts again.

Wayland’s Smithy Long Barrow – 8.2.2004

Directions – I think what Chris means (see first fieldnotes) is that if you really want to have the shortest possible walk to Wayland’s you could unofficially park where the dead-end road to Knighton Barn (the road is called Knighton Hill) crosses the Ridgeway (circa SU285856). I wouldn’t encourage having the shortest possible walk though, although I guess there might be some good reasons in certain situations (e.g. lack of mobility, terrible weather). Most people walk from the Uffington Castle area, or from the signposted National Trust car park (free). For the latter, walk out of the car park as if you were continuing on the road that just took you to the car park and continue to walk up the road until you get to the Ridgeway, turn right and follow the Ridgeway until you pass a line of beech trees. 400m further you’ll see the entrance on your right into the Wayland’s Smithy enclosure. It’s 2 km in total. Alternatively you can approach from the West by parking just off the road between Ashbury and Ashdown House, where it crosses the Ridgeway (circa SU274843). It’s only just over 1 km from there.

We walked from Uffington Castle, which was pretty pleasant, despite patches of the Ridgeway looking like a mangled forest track (and other bits being bone dry!). The only spoiler of the walk was three annoying 4x4’s playing silly muddy buggers, with an attitude. I don’t have a problem with real off roading (challenging stuff on private land in forests and farm land), but this is like off-roading for the blandly afflicted. Pointless and tedious. Later we heard and saw three motorbikes churning through the mud right outside Wayland’s.

It was about 12 years ago when I first visited this famous Long barrow, and it’s a good sign that it hasn’t changed much. Lots of visitors came and went (quickly), and then suddenly 5 minutes of calm and didn’t see another human being all the way back to the NT car park.

Uffington Castle – 8.2.2004

When I had visited once before I couldn’t appreciate its size and views because I could hardly see in front of my face with thick mist. Today I could, and walked around, up and over part of it. What a great place to live this would have been. Howling gale, or no howling gale, this was still great.

No-one seems to have done the obvious yet....(car centric) directions. A large (and free) National Trust car park exists just off the B4507, up the hill, opposite to the road to Woolstone. From the car park it’s a 600-700m walk to the Horse / Castle. I think a separate car park for people with disabilities exists closer to the Horse / Castle and is approached via the narrow road that starts opposite to the road to Uffington village and cuts Dragon Hill from The White Horse (hhmmmm!). This is all well signposted. Note – The B4507 lives up to it’s ranking in the B roads stakes. It’s a twisty, potholed, slightly narrow thing.

The Uffington White Horse – 8.2.2004

It was about 12 years ago when I first visited this enigmatic hill figure. That day was very misty and I hadn’t had a chance to wander properly or visit Dragon Hill. This time I had a perfect view for miles and miles across the Oxfordshire countryside. And I got to go down to Dragon Hill, which is as amazingly flat topped and as out of place as I’d always envisaged it. I love the look of the escarpment from the hill, both up towards the horse, and across the side of the escarpment as it concertinas its way along to the west.

No-one seems to have done the obvious yet....(car centric) directions. A large (and free) National Trust car park exists just off the B4507, up the hill, opposite to the road to Woolstone. From the car park it’s a 600-700m walk to the Horse / Castle. I think a separate car park for people with disabilities exists closer to the Horse / Castle and is approached via the narrow road that starts opposite to the road to Uffington village and cuts Dragon Hill from The White Horse (hhmmmm!). This is all well signposted. Note – The B4507 lives up to it’s ranking in the B roads stakes. It’s a twisty, potholed, slightly narrow thing.

Little Solsbury Hill – 23.1.2004

I like Rhiannon’s example of walking from Bath, but unfortunately my visit was a bit of an after thought and the sun was going down, so I lazily drove all the way up to the edge of the common land that surrounds the hill top!

There is room for 2 cars to park (at ST770678) at the end of the dead end lane that leads right up to the top of the hill. The hideously out of place house and virtual scrap yard at the top of the lane has ‘No Parking’ signs outside but presumably that means don’t park in front of their gate. I can’t see any reason why people couldn’t park a few metres down the hill, as I did.

Over a muddy stile and up the short slope to the top of the fabled hill. It was a misty drizzly day but the views were still spectacular. As Rhiannon says, the flat hilltops surround you and look like you could reach out and touch them; I know Lansdown and Bannerdown particularly well. I walked all the way around the triangular top, surveying the lumpy land and fortifications below, and trying to recognise all the areas and features I know from my home city. I’d love to return in the summer and be able to lay down and chill more!

Colerne Park Barrows – 23.1.2004

These aren’t quite fieldnotes because I didn’t see them! I was visiting the village I was born in (Colerne) and decided to have a quick look for the barrows, trying to remember where they were on the map (which I didn’t have with me!). I must have got so close though!!

If heading from Colerne to Ford, turn into Thickwood Lane and go through the old bit of Thickwood. You’ll come to a crossroads, go straight ahead along the narrow lane to Slaughterford. The barrows should be in the second field on your right.

I later learnt from my mother that my father had worked at Hall Farm (the farm near the crossroads) as a young man and knew the area well.

Stanton Drew – The Great Circle, North East Circle & Avenues – 30.12.2003

I finally got back to Stanton Drew ten years after my aborted first try – see notes below. Where did those ten years go?

I think the access may have already changed from Moth’s recent notes. The gate at the honesty box is a small normal gate (swing gate). But 30 metres onwards I then had to negotiate two narrow kissing gates in close proximity before I got in the field. The field was pretty lumpy and full of cow shit, but was pretty firm under foot, even in December.

The two accessible circles are amazing. This complex (adding in The Cove, the South West circle, and Hautville’s Quoit) should be mentioned in the same breath as Avebury and Stonehenge, but rarely is, probably because, 1) the two circles and their avenues weren’t open for much of the 1990’s, Hautville’s Quoit is a pitiful sight (on farm land), and the South West Circle has been on private land for as long as I can remember, 2) the lack of tea shop, guide book, huge car park, signposting, etc, and 3) the alleged initial reaction from a distance; that it’s just a lot of jumbled stones.

But Stanton Drew rocks – big time. Easy to get to (I think), easy to access now, enormous stones, amazing history. This is stunning. Everyone should visit (not all at once please! The car park probably holds about 4 cars, and the other car park at The Cove isn’t huge). The North East Circle is the greatest stone circle I’ve seen so far on my travels.

It’s a disgrace that there wasn’t more uproar when the two main circles were closed; it’s almost as though this complex doesn’t want the attention it deserves. I am so happy that we can now all go to these two circles, virtually anytime we like (well....9am to sunset the sign says, any day except Christmas Day).

Propaganda and access has stopped this becoming seen as circles / complex that are truly ‘great’. This is NOT a jumbled mess of stones. Anyone with half a brain will be able to immediately see that there is a large circle (mainly fallen), and then a smaller circle (mainly intact and with enormous stones almost on a par with Avebury). The other stones (the avenues) need a bit of thought but to suggest this is a jumble of stones is a ludicrous assault on human intelligence.

I had this amazing place to myself. No sounds at all except planes droning towards Lulsgate (Bristol Airport) and some birds. Please visit.

Stantonbury – 30.12.2003

I like Rhiannon’s example of walking from Bath to Stantonbury. In reality I visited it as an afterthought after visiting Stanton Drew.

You can park in a small layby on the west side of the hill (approx ST668639), just on the south side of the notoriously dangerous bend in the A39 between Corston and Marksbury. There doesn’t seem to be any better places to park on this side of the hill, however I think the best (and less muddy!) approach to the hill is on the North East side from approx ST679640.

From this layby you could probably nip up the edge of the field and be in the wood in a jiffy but it isn’t officially a footpath. The actual footpath is 300m around the corner of the road and is marked on the north side of the road by a small ‘footpath’ sign. Luckily there is a pavement (of various descriptions) along the road between the layby and the footpath.

The footpath goes straight across a field (very, very heavy clay mud in December!) and into the woods. The bottom of the footpath to the top then isn’t that obvious and isn’t the right-angled affair the OS map suggests – look for the uprooted tree. Then there are several ‘footpath’ signs on the way up, and Wansdyke can usually be seen on your right.

The top is relatively flat and scrubby, with abandoned farm equipment. The ramparts aren’t obvious in most places but can be seen when looking down off the hill. Bits of the west side have a steep slope; otherwise it’s relatively gentle. An entrance seems to partly survive on the north east corner. There are lots of pheasants around; the first of which I disturbed almost gave me a heart attack! Like Rhiannon, I found there wasn’t much of a view on a misty day, but on a good day I imagine the view would be stunning and I’d love to come back one day.

Lansdown Barrows – 29.12.2003

These two plain looking round barrows are Scheduled Ancient Monuments. The ‘Magic’ website just confirms that they are scheduled as ‘BA32’, and are described as “Two Round Barrows N Of Blathwayt Arms”. There’s not much to see except for two lumps in a strange scrubby triangular piece of land, that has probably only been left alone because of the existence of the barrows. The barrows are sandwiched between the road and Bath racecourse on the east and west, and a few houses and the Golf Course car park to the south and north. ‘Civilisation’ is creeping towards the barrows, with the new cottage next to the Clubhouse helping to pay for the newly tarmaced car park. The southern barrow is significantly larger than the other barrow.

Nympsfield Long Barrow – 27.12.2003

You might be shocked to here that I had a little trouble at finding this – the most easy to find place! The weather was poor and the car park part of the picnic area seems to have moved compared to the OS map I had (1:25,000 – it has the new Severn Bridge on it so can’t be that old!). This map suggests that the barrow is to the left (south) of any car park. Which, as Moth says, it isn’t. The barrow is slightly to the right of the entrance to the picnic area, and the car parking is on the left at around SO794013. Before anyone thinks I’m mad to not find this immediately I have to also point out in my defence that Colin and Janet Bord’s book ‘A Guide to Ancient Sites in Britain’ (which admittedly does date from the late 1970’s) describes the barrow as at “the southern end of the picnic area”. So I initially looked at the south end, and found some lovely views, but not the barrow.

Don’t miss the stunning views across Gloucestershire, the Severn and Wales. Just walk down to the south (i.e. to the left as you drive in) and the view is everywhere. There is a new panoramic plate on Frocester Hill (on National Trust land) just at the end of the picnic area.

Nympsfield is an interesting example of an open longbarrow and this is approx what Notgrove looked like until it was backfilled. It’s interesting that Colin and Janet Bord’s book strongly disapproved of Notgrove when it was open, but made no adverse comment on Nympsfield.

Uley Long Barrow / Petty Hegler’s Tump – 27.12.2003

I decided to see if there was a pleasant walking route from Uley Bury Hill Fort to the Uley Long Barrow, via the Cotswold Way (i.e. avoiding the main road between the two). The Cotswold Way does run from Uley Bury along through Coaley Wood below Uley Long Barrow, but I couldn’t see any path up to the longbarrow (although I have to say I didn’t try very hard). Instead I scrabbled up a very, very steep (look at the contours on the map!) and slippery slope. I judged it quite well though and emerged from the woods about 100 metres from the barrow. I enjoyed it but don’t encourage anyone else to do it! Not one of my best decisions in life!

The barrow itself made up for my scrabbling. A lumpy, podgy top (not exactly looking like a long barrow), but great entrance and interior. After a quick limbo/creep under the enormous entrance stone, your eyes slowly adjust to the semi-darkness. The walling and stones inside are beautiful. A small plea – take yer feckin tealights home with you please.

If coming by car, I would hardly consider the gap in the field wall next to the tourist sign to be the greatest place to park, but I guess you could park there for a short while. You could try the entrance to the reservoir (almost opposite the tourist sign) or the entrance to the footpath into Toney Wood about 150 metres further down the road (south). You can walk along the road from Uley Bury, but it’s not the most pleasant, or safe walk.

N.B. – local references usually call it ‘Uley Tumulus’ which got me confused several times!

Uley Bury Hill Fort – 27.12.2003

There is a makeshift, muddy (unmarked) layby for about 7 cars at ST787993, towards the top of the hill that leads North West from Uley. If you park here (or walk to it from the Cotswold Way) walk past the large metal gate and the plateau of Uley Bury is about 70 metres onwards, up the muddy track. You can walk all around the top of the hill, and other paths often run down off the hill so you can explore them as well. When walking around the top it seems to be often what would have been the last line of defence, but it’s rarely much of a ditch now. Most of the defence otherwise seems to be the naturally tough escarpment of the hill. This is very steep in places, although on the north West and South sides I was surprised to see small extra ditches and ramparts visible on the hill.

The south east corner is interesting, with a clear entrance built here.

The walk around the hill is pretty pleasant (even in the biting rain!) because it has stunning views, especially to the West, across Gloucestershire and Wales. It’s like being on the top of the world.

Belas Knap – 25.10.2003

O lordy, lordy. A magical must see. Beg, borrow or steal (well maybe not the last one) to get here. After exploring the chambers and the amazing false entrance (you will rarely ever see workmanship like that!) we relaxed at the southern end and despite a constant stream of people in the area, very few walked around the barrow, or spent any time there. One woman had walked up to the barrow just behind us and spent barely 2 minutes before walking back. Oh well, each to their own, but more fool them I say. This was probably the last day of decent weather and despite the clocks changing the night before (strangely meaning that it would be dark in about 2 hours) bright sunshine blazed across the huge pregnant barrow, lighting it up as it deserved. I have been so honoured by great weather at so many sites in the last 12 months.

I am staggered that people think this is a long / difficult walk. I’m definitely in the Ironman camp here (maybe too much Moor walking in my case). Of course it is a steep (but short) walk up the initial hill and would certainly test anyone with limited mobility, health problems etc, but anyone blessed with vague fitness will do it in a short time, and then the short walk over the gentley undulating next field is really pretty easy, with a stunning view back across Winchcombe and north Gloucestershire. It would certainly be worse in bad weather but you don’t have to follow the rougher track under the woods to the barrow – you can easily walk at the side of the field, past lots of damson trees on your left. And yes, the ‘footpath’ around the first field (just after the 70metre walk up from the layby) does take you all around the field, but you could walk straight across the field if you really wanted to; as you come into the first field, just look up to the top of the field and head for the top left hand side. Please don’t be put off by this walk.

Notgrove Long Barrow – 25.10.2003

Not much to see here, but still worth a quick stop off if you are ever in the area. There is a large layby just a few metres away, next to a field of turnips (I didn’t know they had turnip fields anymore!). The road (A436) is a bit of a race track so be a bit careful.

The King Stone (The Rollright Stones) -25.10.2003

I love the idea of the info William Stukeley gave, that the young people of the area would gather at the flat area near the king stone (once erroneously assumed to be a barrow) once a year to dance, eat cakes and drink ale. Oh those were the days!

I love the folklore attached to the stone as well, and it doesn’t at all appear creepy to me. The shape is well worth wondering about. My friend did geology for his first degree, so I set his mind ticking about natural ways to get that shape.

The Whispering Knights (The Rollright Stones) -25.10.2003

If you visit the King’s Men please set aside a bit of time so you can visit the remains of this burial chamber, which really do live up to their nickname. Can be spotted from the King’s Men, so you can hardly get lost. As someone else mentioned, just walk alone the main road (changing counties if you cross the road!) until the end of the field in which the Whispering Knights stand. A battered old green farm gate greats you, from where you can easily walk down the side of the field, slowing going downhill with the view in front of you getting more impressive. The stones are very large and if the railings weren’t there we’d be able to get the full in yer face effect.

The King’s Men (The Rollright Stones) – 25.10.2003

I finally got to visit this enigmatic limestone circle that “looks like huge rotted teeth” (Janet & Colin Bord – “A Guide to Ancient Sites in Britain”,1979, Paladin Books). And I’m so glad I have been there, although I’d like to spend to a bit more time in the area next time.

The importance is really in the whole of the surrounding area rather than just the circle, although it’s obvious that many people stop to have a quick look at the circle without visiting the Whispering Knights, or finding out a little more about the whole area. The folklore, accessibility, location (without other circles for many miles), multi-period use of the area, and rare choice of limestone, makes the circle itself more ‘important’ that it looks.

We had the circle to ourselves for most of the time, which surprised me, because cars were moving in and out of the lay-by very regularly. The guy in the shed (where you pay and they have publications) seemed utterly uninterested.

Carn Brea – 1st October 2003

Carn Brea is a great big hill just outside Redruth, and is currently the second oldest excavated and dated occupation site in the county.

After hauling my ass up to the top of this hill, I discover a track/road and parked cars on the other side of the summit. Well, I do like walking uphill so I won’t complain, but if you want to take the easy way up, I guess the top can be reached by car from Carnkie.

I noticed a car park on the map at the south side of the hill (at the bottom – around SW681412). I couldn’t see any road signs towards it so I drove via Carn Brea Village and the furthest I could get was a small layby at SW686412, which already had one burnt out car in it. But it is a decent (but not signposted) place to park because two paths up the hill start from close by. One path is wide and goes around and up the east side of the hill and the other is more overgrown and goes up the hill into the middle of the Neolithic enclosure, through what is believed to be the ancient entrance.

It’s not easy to see much of the ancient bits on the hill though (even with the detailed drawing in Cornovia), but is well worth it for the view and the vibe. Not surprisingly the view from the top is amazing, including a good view across to St.Agnes Beacon.

Halangy Down Settlement – St.Mary’s, Isles of Scilly – 3rd October 2003

For directions and comment, see Bant’s Carn.

This was a really evocative site for me, and I could well imagine people living here. The courtyard house is excellent, although the rest of the settlement would require more time to explore to try to make more sense of it all.

NB – It should be said that although there is evidence of settlement on the site going back to the Bronze Age, the settlement we now see probably belongs to the second to fourth centuries AD.

Bant’s Carn – St.Mary’s, Isles of Scilly – 3rd October 2003

Given that just by getting to St.Mary’s, and presumably having a map, you have shown a lot of initiative and commitment, I won’t try to describe the minutiae of getting to sites on the island (but might just make a few comments). Most major sites are signposted, but I was disappointed (in general) at the poor signposting of paths, especially given that I have read others say that Scilly sites are well signposted, and the general fact that tourism is the main economy of the islands.

I have to say again that I was disappointed at the footpaths in the area. There doesn’t seem to be a coastal path from the east, which was a disappointment. It was signposted from the large pylon but it was a shame to have to come inland and via a scabby pylon (and past a road that said ‘Private Road’) to get to one of the most important multi-period sites on the islands.

Like the tomb at Higher Innisidgen, this is a real ‘show grave’, despite being eaten into the surrounding field walls. What a great place and great location. The chamber is higher than most and I can imagine that the entrance would have been pretty special in its full glory.

Higher Innisidgen Entrance Grave – St.Mary’s, Isles of Scilly – 3rd October 2003

Given that just by getting to St.Mary’s, and presumably having a map, you have shown a lot of initiative and commitment, I won’t try to describe the minutiae of getting to sites on the island (but might just make a few comments). Most major sites are signposted, but I was disappointed (in general) at the poor signposting of paths, especially given that I have read others say that Scilly sites are well signposted, and the general fact that tourism is the main economy of the islands.

A few snippets re location. If coming from the west on the track past Lenteverne and you want to get to Innisidgen via the coast, you need to take the path to the right (downhill). After 100metres you then continue on slightly left (instead of crossing a tiny gully to the right which takes you to the coast path for the south) and you will be on the coastal path. It is a ‘lower’ grave in terms of height above sea level rather than lower in terms of south from the higher (i.e. the lower grave is actually to the north of the higher grave). Both are on the footpath. If you approach the area from the West it is much easier, because the path to the higher grave is signposted (and that path runs past the lower grave anyway).

‘Higher Innisidgen Carn’ is a real ‘show grave’. A beauty; in a beautiful location. It just screams perfection. I noticed a strange similarity to the rocky outcrop above it (as if it mimicked it), and I swear I saw someone move in the rocky outcrop whilst I took a picture of both. Spooky.

For info on ‘Lower Innisidgen Carn’ see the separate page.

There is another chambered cairn in the area, marked on the map at around SV923122. If I found it, then all I found was a few jumbled stones just off the higher cliff path. I think maybe I didn’t find it. Didn’t have enough time, and the undergrowth in the whole area was pretty fierce.

Harry’s Walls Menhir – St.Mary’s, Isles of Scilly – 3rd October 2003

Given that just by getting to St.Mary’s, and presumably having a map, you have show a lot of initiative and commitment, I won’t try to describe the minutiae of getting to sites on the island (but might just make a few comments). Most major sites are signposted, but I was disappointed (in general) at the poor signposting of paths, especially given that I have read others say that Scilly sites are well signposted, and the general fact that tourism is the main economy of the islands.

This is obviously a strange one because of its location right next to an X shaped daymark (within an unfinished Tudor fort) and it being cemented in place, but seems to be recognised as a menhir. It was first recorded by Borlase in 1756 as sitting on a mound. Stones litter the immediate area possibly suggesting a previous cairn?

Give all the above I felt the menhir was in a rather ‘cold’ place. Couldn’t get much feeling of ancient history!

Buzza Hill Entrance Graves – St.Mary’s, Isles of Scilly – 3rd October 2003

Buzza Hill can be reached via a footpath up from the east end of Porthcressa Beach, or from just off Church Road (either a footpath from the Power Station, or via the Hospital Lane).

It’s well worth the short climb. Not only does the hill give you the best views back over Hugh Town but also it contains one existing entrance grave, one that was probably an entrance grave before a windmill was built on it in 1834 (and which is now ‘King Edward’s Tower’ and lots of stones that might be some sort of chamber (between the two above ones).

Compared to all the ‘show graves’ of the islands the entrance grave is not great (only one capstone in place), but the position is fantastic and it is a very enigmatic place. The Cornish Antiquarian William Borlase excavated two chambered cairns on the hill in the mid-18th century. He found neither pottery or human bones.

The kerbed ring around the tower is excellent in places and I guess it would have a been a classic entrance grave in it’s original form.

St.Agnes Beacon Cairns – 2nd October 2003

Can’t really miss this hill, just west of St.Agnes village. Easy to reach, via numerous public footpaths around the area. National Trust openland. Closest place to park is at SW706507, facing a metal farm building, with room for about 8 cars. But you can also park at many other places in the area and walk to the beacon via footpaths or roads.

The OS map shows 3 cairns on the summit. Two towards the highest point (at the south east end of the summit) and one at the north west end of the summit area. All are in light gorse, with the most southerly one the deepest amongst the thorns. None stand out massively, and there are many other similar mounds round the hill. I cannot believe that some of these aren’t also burial cairns.

The hill stands out for miles around, and the views from it are totally stunning. The highest point isn’t actually a cairn, but the old beacon, which is topped with a panoramic plate showing you the landmarks for around 25kms around, including several windfarms, the china clay area around Roche (24km away) and Carn Brae (10km away).

The Bolster Bank is visible to the south and southeast of the Beacon, but isn’t totally obvious ( an OS map will help you orientate yourself). It is believed that originally this Dyke enclosed the whole of the coastal area around the hill, cutting it off from the surrounding land.

Bolster Bank – 2nd October 2003

I wouldn’t agree with Craig Weatherhill, in “Cornovia: Ancient Sites of Cornwall & Scilly” (Cornwall Books – 1985, revised 1997 & 2000) who says the best place to view the dyke is where it abuts the south side of the road between the west side of St.Agnes and Goonvrea (at about SW717501). Yes, there is a public footpath at that point but it is separated from the dyke by highish hedge, and there is no obvious way to see the dyke close up.

I didn’t try viewing the bank (up close) from a different place. The obvious place to try would be where the bank crosses the road from St.Agnes Beacon to Towan Cross (around Goonvrea Farm, at SW 713496). Instead, I got a pretty good overview from the top of St.Agnes Beacon although it does take a few moments to get your bearings; the dyke is hardly the Wall of China and takes a bit of spotting.

It is believed that originally this Dyke enclosed the whole of the coastal area around the hill, cutting it off from the surrounding land. The reason for the bank is not obvious, and nor is the date. Craig Weatherhill, in Cornovia, writes that “It could date from anytime between 500BC and 1000AD, but opinion leans in favour of a post-Roman date, probably fifth or sixth century AD”.

St.Piran’s Round – 2nd October 2003

Although it’s not signposted it is relatively easy to find 1.2km along the B3285 from Goonhavern (towards Perranporth), on the north side of the road, just off a small lane opposite a pink house. You can park a car discreetly on the side of the lane, just off the main road. There is open access to the land.

There is a stile into the enclosure where the earthwork stands and a flagstone entrance into the interior. A small sign gives the following statement, “This St.Piran’s Round is protected as a monument of national importance under the Ancient Monuments Acts 1913-53: Department of the Environment”.

The earthwork is ‘perfect’. Well kept, a perfect circle, with two opposite entrances, equal height banks, and a decent (if overgrown) ditch on the outside. Birds fluttered and it was all so idyllic, almost too idyllic!

The ladle shaped depression is way cool. I can just imagine it being used in the medieval miracle plays.

Prospidnick Menhir – 1st October 2003

It’s not easy to describe exactly how to get here through the variety of lanes. Probably best to get an OS map. Or try this. On the B3297 just north of Helston, take the first left after the golf course (signposted ‘Coverack Bridges’; and others). Pass the red phone box at Coverack Bridges and continue along the lane, past the school. Take the next right at a small triangular junction. This lane takes you past the farm at Chyreen. Just past Halvance Farm there is a small junction. Go right (signposted ‘Releath’ and the sexy menhir is then clearly in view on your right.

This slim but tall stone lies in the field wall on the roadside. There is space almost opposite to park for a short while.

Halligye Fogou – 1st October 2003

Amazing. Without having seen all the other fogous, this and the Carn Euny fogou must be the cream of the crop. Everyone should see this. Everyone! Despite the changes over time (the current entrance is believed to be wrong, and a hole now exists in the main passageway thus letting in light) this is still in very good condition, and with public access for much of the year. I felt the hole might be deliberate to let light into the main passage and make it safer to be in. Just a total guess though.

It wasn’t clear from the OS map exactly where the entrance to the Trelowarren Estate was, so it was a good surprise to see a brown (tourist) sign at the roundabout linking Garras, Mawgan and Rosevear (at SW701243). The turn off to the estate is then marked by a bright modern sign a few hundred metres towards Garras, with the actual estate entrance another 400 metres on at SW705242. After 1km through the estate there is a sign to the fogou and parking for 3-4 cars at SW713241. A short walk up the track takes you to the gates of Halliggye Farm. A marked footpath to the right takes you into an enclosure and you are there, at this amazing structure.

I went in every bit of the fogou, including the tiny original entrance, which I felt was the most stunningly claustrophobic and well engineered. The whole place is just great. Feel the quality of the workmanship.

But the fogou didn’t want its picture taken. Not only was the rain getting heavy now, but I managed to smash my old compact camera on the way out by getting tangled in its strap and accidentally thrashing it about. I’d taken pics with this because it had a flash, whereas my Pentax SLR didn’t. So to try to re-create the now lost pics I went back and took pics again with the Pentax on a fixed shutter speed and trying to use the flash from the compact as a flash. It didn’t work!

NB – The entrance to the estate had a sign saying that all permissive footpaths on the estate were closed between 1st October and ..um...didn’t write the end date down (probably around Easter – I was too busy slapping my head and shouting doh at coming on 1st October!). Despite my fears it didn’t affect me getting to the fogou and I imagine it shouldn’t cause any problems for others because the fogou is an English Heritage site, and up a farm track rather than a footpath. Also the fogou is closed for the winter anyway (currently November to March inclusive).

The Tolvan – 1st October 2003

Just as cool as expected, although I always manage to build up pictures of places in my head and they are never quite the same. I don’t know why but I didn’t quite expect the road the cottage is on to be a country lane, or to be next to the rolling countryside. The area is also surprisingly close to the water (The Helford River is barely 1km away).

Just in case you didn’t know the Tolvan is situated in the back garden of Tolvan Cross Cottage, which is 800m north of Gweek. From Gweek, the main road bends slightly right, whereas the road for the Tolvan is straight on as you get to the Spar / Post Office. The current owners are a lovely young couple, and although they obviously retain the right for people to view at their discretion, they are very flexible and don’t mind people turning up unannounced. Or you can, as I did, give some prior warning in case they are out, away etc. They get about 5-6 people a year at the moment, and unless those number rise dramatically they don’t see it as a problem at all.

The stone is all I expected. Big and enigmatic. One thing that I hadn’t noticed on pics was a small circular hole on the left hand side. Wonder what that is all about?

NB – their ‘front door’ is at the back, next to the stone.

Wendron Stone Circles – 1st October 2003

What’s left of the circles are situated just to the east of the B3297, 800 metres south of the junction with the B3280, around two fields behind a house situated on the rise in the road. There is a lay-by opposite for about 3 cars, although it is quite dangerous to get out of given its situation just under the top of the hill. Directly to the left of the house is an unmarked public footpath that leads towards that back of the house. 2 stones from what was a circle are part of the field wall, apparently still in situ (i.e. they weren’t moved, but were conveniently used as part of the field wall). See Cornovia for a diagram. The other circle is mainly in the next field over (except for one in the field wall – at the viewing point – that is believed to be from the circle), but there is a convenient viewing point at the wall, and it’s obvious that loads of people have climbed over the wall.

‘Four Burrows’ Barrow cemetery – 30th September 2003

Located on either side of the A30, on the highest land in the area, these enormous barrows are impossible NOT to spot between the A30/A390/A3075 roundabout (locally called the ‘Chiverton’ Roundabout) and the junction of the A30 and B3284! You can either park in a small layby right next to the dead-end lane to ‘Fourburrow’ (not signposted), or just off the dead end lane itself.

As barrows 1 and 2 are located in the corner of fields it looks as though they are pretty much left to grow wild, whereas barrows 3 & 4 are more part of the cropped field and when I visited they were pretty neatly kept, and being famed up to the edge, making them stand out in the field (as if there size didn’t make them stand out anyway!)

Callestick Settlement – 30th September 2003

Marked on the 1:25,000 OS map as a small round settlement. The map suggests it is bisected by a field boundary just to the west of the ‘Callestock Cyder Farm’. However when wandering to the west of the cyder farm it seems like the one big field on the map is now two fields – the east side is the car park and some wildish land with a large earth bank as a boundary (which I first took as possibly part of the settlement but later discounted), and the west side has been made into a horse field. This means the setlement must be part of the far side of the horse field, with the other part in the next field. With the naked eye, and at a distance, I couldn’t see anything to suggest the
remains of a settlement was there.

I love Cornwall but it does have more than its fair share of ultra cheesy touristy places, and this ‘Cyder Farm’ must be the equivalent of Gorgonzola. It really is awful, and the cider isn’t even that good (and is VERY expensive for no good reason).

Ballowall Barrow – 29th September 2003

From the west side of St.Just follow the ‘Cape Cornwall’ road past ‘Cape Cornwall School’. 300 metres on, as the houses finish on the left hand side of the road, take an immediate left. This is NOT signposted (and bloody should be for a site if this importance). Follow this road into the National Trust land and you can hardly fail to spot this sublime ‘barrow’ on the left hand side of the road, just after an old mine chimney.
Parking is available a short distance past the barrow.

I put inverted commas on ‘barrow’ because this thing is so amazing that I feel there has to be a separate word for it! I have seen quite few different types of barrows and burial places in my time and this blows them all out of the water, being a mix of different sites and styles. The central dome is assumed to have been significantly bigger before, and with its strange thick collar all around it surely would have been a magnificent sight all those years ago, whatever it actually looked like at the time.

The entrance grave on the outside is clearly visible, as is a cist directly on the other side of the ‘outer collar’, and another cist at the other side of the central dome. There is also a strange alcove and pit on the east side. This was built by Borlase as a viewing pit; a sort of ‘show pit’. Read the English Heritage listing for the barrow via the internet link below to try to fathom out all of this (I could just follow it, but a diagram would have been useful).

Walking between the outer collar and central dome is a fantastic experience as your senses are surrounded by the ancient equivalent of the art of dry stone walling (although some of it is Borlase’s work).

Carn Euny Settlement – 29th September 2003

With an OS map, this is pretty easy to get to, despite the tortuous journey through lanes with many blind corners. Without a map you might still just make it because the settlement is easily found once you reach Brane, which is basically a dead end settlement. It’s a shame that this amazing settlement isn’t a little bit better signposted from the carpark and given a separate footpath up to it because I can imagine that this could be a very muddy trek in the wrong weather, and if cows are in the fields.

There is a very small ‘brown’ tourist sign at Drift, alongside the sign to Sancreed. At the next main junction (at SW423291) ‘Brane’ is clearly signposted. Only at the next junction (with the lane to Tregonebris – SW416288) is ‘Carn Euny’ not signposted. As you come into Brane, there is one last ‘Carn Euny’ brown signpost. 300 metres after this, next to small wooded area and opposite the last house in Brane, is space for about 5 cars to park. The settlement is then about 300 metres away, up a lane, half way up the next field and then left though a small field to the settlement.

The fogou will blow your mind. The journey is worth it just for this. Although I knew it was a long fogou I wasn’t sure if it was open (because the Chysauster one is so sadly neglected and buggered by English Heritage) and hadn’t totally read up about it. I was happy to simply see that the south entrance was open and got my torch at the ready thinking it would be a creepy, narrow place, but soon realised that once under the lintelled south entrance (which originally wouldn’t have been an entrance by the way) I could easily stand up – indeed, I later ran through the fogou and back into the corbelled room jumping up and down at the bloody size of the underground structures! The corbelled room will shock you even if you have been in other fogous or Scottish souterrains. Forget the dodgy roof, just feel the width! And look at the skill of the building work. Amazing. The main fogou passage is also a masterpiece of engineering. The creep at the southern end (believed to be originally the only entrance) is also pretty cool, although it is sensitively blocked at ground level by wooden slats.

The courtyard houses are not as impressive as Chysauster, but nevertheless are well worth the visit as well.

Pentire Point East Barrows – 28th September 2003

The area is easily reached via the dead end road through Pentire, 2kms from the A392 coming into Newquay. A car park (not free in season, but only 50p an hour) is situated where the road ends, and also has toilets. Or you could chance parking at Lewinnick Lodge Restaurant, halfway along the north slope of the headland.

Not surprisingly the views off the headland are stunning, reaching as far north as the Trevose Lighthouse, about 15km up the coast. The end of the headland is a great position for a low barrow at SW781616.

Just before you get to the carpark, there is another barrow (topped with vegetation) on the northside of the road at SW789615. Opposite houses, on the ‘Pentire Pitch and Putt’.

The Kelseys Barrows – 28th September 2003

SW7660 area

The OS map shows 3 barrows dotted around ‘The Kelseys’, near Kelsey Head Cliff Castle. The nearest to the cliff castle is allegedly at SW765605, but I couldn’t find a trace of it. The second is visible as a low mound near the cliff edge at SW765602, and the third is at SW768600 but is pretty indistinct.

Penhale Point Cliff Castle – 28th September 2003

Easily reached via Holywell, although the interior of the headland is littered with old mining activity, and modern god knows what (not marked on the map – seem to be some sort of telecom / electrical stuff) and signs tell you to stick to the coast path. It’s worth the effort because the view in all directions is stunning, be it out to sea and Carter’s Rocks, to Ligger Point to the south or towards Holywell Beach and Kelsey Head to the north. And the defences of the cliff castle are still quite impressive.