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14:08:03ce
This Kercado sized tumulus outside the village of Le Bono is fascinating for a number of reasons. The great mound itself covers a very long passage of orthostats and drystone which bends through almost 90degrees partway along. This then opens out into a chamber with almost enough room to stand. The faint remains of carvings can be seen along the passage including a goddess figurine. This chamber, if required, could be pitch black at any time of day.
Inspite of the condensation on the stones themselves the floor in here is remarkably dry.
What is also fascinating though is the surroundings. Around the tumulus are a number of burial mounds dated to the Iron Age. However they are very much like megalithic structures, one still having, what Aubrey Burl describes as, a small dolmen like structure at its centre. South of the tumulus are a number of fantastic natural rock outcrops, maybe part shaped by man.
Clearly this area was sacred for a long time. From the time before the megaliths to a time when they had long since ceased to be constructed. Were the pine trees not here there would be views out to the Gulf of Morbihan. But how did that area look back then when sea levels meant it was no sea at all…
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14:08:03
For many years I have planned a trip out here and finally I have made it. This is one fantastic site. The carved figurine which was the Guard stone for the passage is long gone but there is a cast in the museum and its image forms the head of 'Neo' the mascot who guides children through the artifacts.
The passage here is relatively short, if all the area past the, almost 90degree, bend is counted as the chamber. This part of the passage-grave is a long passage too which widens slightly at the end and is terminated by a large slab. Burl says some of the stones are carved but the moss and weather have made these carvings invisible to my eye.
It is hard to imagine what this place would have been like when it was complete. The long stoop down the pitch-dark tunnel to the wider area must have been frightening. No natural light would have penetrated so deep and the guarding goddess must have seemed imposing.
Who knows why these were so planned but les Pierres Plats and the Tumulus at le Bono are similar in plan so they were popular in this area.
Someone seems to have built some kind of 'den' between the entrance stones, which is curious and makes me think of the village idiot at Crucuno, is it just kids or does some modern idiot retire here for his rest?
Sitting in these woods by these ancient and deserted stones has a profound resonance with me now. The years of antiquarians, archaeologists, enthusiast and tourists seem to almost haunt the trees. One can almost see them standing around in the clothes of centuries, almost imagine some weary travelers stopping here for rest, although it is not really on the way anywhere.
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The Dolmen de Kerlutu sits at the edge of a track near Belz, just to the northwest of Erdeven. The dolmen appears to have had some kind of restoration at sometime, as there is some fairly 'new' looking drystone walling inside.
There is no evidence of a passage remaining here. The chamber though is set in a low mound, which reaches the tops of the uprights but does not encroach on the outsize capstone.
And what a capstone, almost inappropriately large for the chamber it covers; it is supported by drystone walling and three of the four megalithic orthostats.
One can imagine that these five stones were at one time all that remained at Kerlutu. And a splendid denuded dolmen it would have been. The restoration, that I am guessing replaced the walls and mound, created a rather odd dolmen/tumulus hybrid, which is nonetheless still impressive.
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18:06:03
At the side of the road, in the hamlet of Kerguérhen near Belz sits the Dolmen de Er Roc'h. This is more like the Carnac dolmens I'm used too. It is a mid-period passage grave with some differentiation between the passage and the chamber. A smallish and understated dolmen it is today half covered by ivy, and even the floor inside is carpeted with the voracious climber.
These are the unpretentious, unimposing dolmens that one finds all over this area. These are not such monsters as the Grand Tumuli, which would draw pilgrims from miles around, but the small family tombs serving the outlying communities of the Carnac area. Almost like the domestic shrines found in the homes of Hindus.
But still I must visit for that is my mission, and in order to get the whole picture one must see all the pixels…
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18/06/03ce
These two dolmens at the summit of a natural hill over looking some of the islands that lie in the Riviere d'Etel, the Ile de Niheu, Ile de Reic'h, Ile des Moines and the Ile du Petit Niheu.
Of the two the northern most is more complete, having, it seems, all it's uprights and two capstones, including a rippling weetabix that covers the chamber. The second as faired less well and only the low stones of the chamber and a few uprights of the passage remain. It seems unlikely that this second dolmen ever had capstones, it being more likely to have had a corbelled chamber instead, the uprights are two low, I feel, to directly support a capstone. This dolmen is also surrounded by the remains of a low mound.
From this evidence and also from looking at the way the chambers are differentiated from the passages I would guess that the hatless dolmen is the earlier of the two as it's chamber is somewhat more clearly defined as being separate from the passage.
The location of two dolmens from different time periods atop this same hill does then point to its importance as a sacred area. The river valley would not have been so flooded as it is now so maybe those islands were similar hills which were addressed by the dolmens here.
I'm now going to try and find a dolmen which my guidebook describes as being 'completely invaded by vegetation', I have not high hopes for finding it.
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18:06:03
I have managed to find the Dolmen de Sept Saints. Almost as hard to find as Kerluir, this again involved some bramble trampling, gorse avoiding action.
The book I'm using now says this is in a sad state, and since the photo therein was taken it's got worse. The dolmen is completely overgrown, one can just see the stones of the passage and the capstone peering through the vegetation but the situation will only get worse here.
A fairly long passage, that is now uncovered, leads to a very low chamber covered by a capstone. It could be that the chamber was originally deep but has been filled in through time.
I'm going to go now because something large and alive is in these woods and scaring me!
Later:
As I fought my way out of the woods I was walking along what I believed to be an overgrown path, however it seems that it may well have been the capstones of the chambers of a second dolmen, totally overwhelmed by the foliage.
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Carnac Latest Developments
It's been sometime since I reported on the progress of the management of Carnac so here's how it's looking these days.
The green fences are still in place inspite of plans two years ago to replace them with something more sympathetic. Summer access to the Alignements is still limited to the official tours although, as before, there is limited open access in the winter months.
Some efforts have been made to clean up a few sites. A path has been cut through the gorse to Kerluir for example! Also the Petit Menec Alignements appear to have been tidied up a little.
Wooden signposts have been erected to point to some minor sites and also to mark footpaths that avoid walking along the main road in places.
The visitor centre at Kermario is long gone and the Archaeoscope has been converted to a new visitor centre. The plans to move the museum up to Menec seems to have stalled however.
Further afield minor sites continue to become overgrown and signposting and information remains poor.
All in all some improvements have been made but there is still a long way to go.
I will endevour to find out more about any future plans and post them up here.
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The official site of Carnac's 'Menhirs Libre' (Free the Stones) society. Menhirs Libre have campaigned tirelessly for the preservation, presentation and freedom of the Carnac alignments since the erection of the fences over 10 year ago.
Madame and Monsieur Mary live within the stones and thier own home is to this threatened by the plans.
Although the 'Menhirland' proposals have supposedly been dropped confusion still reigns over the fate of the menhirs.
(in French with short English synopsis)
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Workmen Spotted at Carnac
Workmen were spotted two days ago inside the old Archaeoscope building at Carnac. As previously reported the building is scheduled to be converted into a new visitor centre to replace the prefabricated structure at Kermario. The visitor centre is currently housed in a rather large tent in the main Menec carpark.
The three workmen were spotted at around three in the afternoon standing in the foyer of the old Archaeoscope. Although they were not actually doing anything this could be the first real sign that the 'New Project' is being realised. One of the workmen appeared to be smoking a cigarette but this is probably due to the archaic French Workmens Union regulations that state that for every man working at least one man or, where possible, two men should be stood nearby to carry out the essential functions of pointing, smoking and chin stroking.
It is not clear when the new visitor centre will be completed and no work has yet begun on the removal of the fences.
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New Carnac Work Begins (Slowly)
Now installed in Carnac for the summer I can report that the 'New Project' has indeed comenced. As far as I can see so far the abominable Archaeoscope (cheers) has been shut down and there are notices in the window announcing that it will reopen as a visitor centre this summer (although I can see little evidence of anything happing there).
Also work has begun to move the road further away from the Menec Alignements. No sign yet of the fences being removed but at least something is happening.
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Victory In Sight at Carnac?
It seems after 10 years of constant protests and local opposition the French Government seems set to scrap it's contovertial sceme for the development of the Carnac alignements, dubbed 'Menhirland' by its detractors. The plan was to reroute the road which lies by the Alignements (causing numerous compulsary purchases of farmland and buildings many of which have been in the same families for generations), to build three massive carparks on the main road into Carnac, to charge an expected six to seven pound entry fee and to continue with the policy of no public access within the Alignements themselves.
The project has been fought for many years, not least by the wonderful 'Menhirs Libre' (Free the Menhirs) organisation, who staged a peaceful occupation of the official visitor centre for over two weeks last September. This latest news will be welcomed by thousands of local residents and visitors who have signed the petition against 'Menhirland' over the years. This is how the news was reported in the Morbihan edition of Ouest-France on Saturday last (I take all responsibility for the translation although I believe it to be as correct as it can get, if a little clumsy):
The Minister of Culture Entrusts the Realisation of the Project to the Prefect of Morbihan
Menhirs: A Less Restrictive Project
This was announced by Jean-Jacques Aillagon, the Minister for Culture, in light of his visit las December. It was confirmed on January the 20th in a letter sent to Gilles Bouillhageut, the Prefect. The 'Menhirland' project must be reviewed and a new plan formulated. The commitee charged with the task will reassemble on Feb 28th.
"The planned works (moving roads, contstruction of a carpark, a visitor centre, a cafe...) seem to me to be constraining and involve too many compulsary purchases. I don't feel the project is respectful enough to the region and the environment". The letter addressed to the Prefect, which arrived mid-January, was very explicit. Jean Jacques Aillagon wishes the proposed works at Carnac to be revued and corrected. The new project, the details of which were given to Gilles Bouillhaguet, concerns the Alignements complex. Yesterday morning, in the Prefect's office in Vannes, the representatives of the State and the three local authorities spoke about the great lines. Jacques Bruneau, mayor of Carnac; Aimé Kerguéris, the conseil général; Bernard de Cadenet, the conseil regional and Jean-Paul Kihl, sub-Prefect of Lorient, organised a team composed of the relevant state services.
Many Interested Parties
"The Minister is very insistant that we liase on the project with the various local groups, organisations and residents" detailed the Prefect "The first project was all bound up with Paris, raising a hue and cry with the electorate. It has been a worry for many years, notwithstanding the numerous hostile demonstrations. We were concerned with maintaining public order and making money. Today this decentralised commitee will allow us to find and refine, in our own area, the views on the works. We are wiping the slate clean!" The project will guarantee the presevqtion of an archaeological site which is exceptional but fragile, and preserve its natural cover of vegetation. The mild works, perfectly integrated into the countryside, will be provided for welcoming and informing the public. The existing buildings will be respected, where possible. Public access will be managed and remain free of charge. Only those roadwroks necessary for the equilibrium and balance of the site will be realised. The public will be able to walk through the site on a path created to connect Menéc, Kermario, Kerlescan and Petit Menéc. The fences surrounding the site will be removed and replaced by low hedges.
"The Minister has imposed a strict timescale" explained Gilles Boillhaguet. The first elements of the project must be in order by March 15th. The choice of the manager of works must be made before the summer. The project commitee, composed of the regional department of cultural affairs, the national centre for monuments and the regional department of works and estates, will reconvien on Feb 28th. A consultation commitee will be put in place to ensure the works go to plan and to take the advice of the partners.
So there you go, most amazing is that the awful fences that have surrounded the Alignments for nigh-on 10 years are to come down and that at least some degree of access be permitted.
Now we'll just have to wait and see...
I'll keep yas posted,
Spaceship Mark
Nantes 060203
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http://www.myspace.com/spaceshipmark
Name: Spaceship Mark Williamson
Born: 1976CE
Lives: Europe
Specialist Subject: Carnac and its environs
Favorite UK site: Castlerigg
Favourite European site: Tumulus de Kercado, Carnac
I've been visiting megalithic sites since about 1990 when I went to Castlerigg and inbetwen getting mashed and falling over I realised what a fantastic place it was. I've spent four summers working in Carnac and hope to return there in the summer of 2004 to finish the fieldwork for the epic 'Fields of Stone: an Exploration of Megalithic Carnac'.
Looking forward to The Megalithic European so this site can be expanded into Europe and I can climb the contributor post chart.
"Knowledge is an inexpensive commodity but its possession is priceless"
Dennis Thompson, the MC5
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