Alas! Poor Auchnaha may well have been ‘christianised’ for our sins, or whatever, but the pious act of vandalism didn’t exactly do it any favours in the preservation stakes, did it? Survive for millennia upon your hilltop and then have a great big ruddy tree fall on you once you’ve been suitably ‘blessed’. OK, I may well be compressing the time-frame somewhat, but it’s a valid point, is it not?
This is another of Scotland’s obscure sites, as Greywether and Postie make clear (was it really so recent Postie?), very much hidden away in a boggy forestry clearing above the quiet – very quiet – eastern flank of Loch Fyne. The B8000 wiggles and weaves along said coastline to allow the motorist to get within striking distance of the monument, but upon parking near Auchnaha House one gets a distinct feeling of being an unwelcome guest. Private Estate signs abound, the hillside barred by a seriously tall wire fence. However further investigation reveals this to end before the forest line to my right, leaving a corridor of forestry devastation to overcome for anyone thinking of coming this way.
As it happens, I do, but all the clambering and whatnot results in me initially missing sight of the little standing stone guiding visitors to the clearing. However I backtrack and there it is... at first appearing simply to be a jumble of overgrown stones.... with a great big ruddy christmas tree on top! However orientate yourself and have a wander and a large inner and outer chamber (with slipped capstone), together with numerous orthostats from what must have once been an impressive facade materialise from the chaos. Moss and lichen are having a field day, as are the midges in the damp, humid atmosphere.... cue the usual improvised head gear, so no ‘scale’ shots in order to preserve what may still serve me as a reputation. Baldrick would’ve been proud... perhaps I could swop it for a visit from Time Team? A much more worthy cause than another bleedin’ R*man villa. Yawn.
Despite the state of the site, the sense of isolation here, together with the substantial remains give Auchnaha a true ‘I’m glad I came’ feel. Hang in there girl, hang in there.