Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos

Also known as:
Great Rhos
Nearest town:
Llandrindod Wells (13km WSW)
OS reference:
SO176646
OS sheet:
148
Latitude:
52° 16' 22.6 N
Longitude:
3° 12' 28 W
Added to TMA by

Images

Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Looking north(ish) across the southern monument (SO17566414) to the sublimely sited pair upon the northern flank of Cwm Bach.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 30, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Not recommended for hayfever... but certainly good for the soul.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Looking across Cwm Bach to the round barrow gracing the southern flank of Cwm Bach. The landscape of Great Rhos is perhaps seen to best advantage from here.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Looking across the southern of the northern pair.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Looking down into Cwm Bach from the northern pair... the ‘path’, for want of a better description, descends very sharply toward the copse of trees and links with the track (background) ascending diagonally leftward to the saddle at cSO192643 above Cwm Merwys. Breathtaking.... in more ways than one. Incidentally, The ‘Shepherd’s Tump’ is located upon the highlighted ridge to upper centre right [SO15516539].

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

The larger of the northern pair at SO17576494

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Heading approx westward down the northern flank of Cwm Bach.... the two barrows are located upon the very edge. So much going on upon the distant Cwmdeuddwr Hills, too.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

The southern barrow as seen during the more-or-less vertical descent to Cwm Bach.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Looking approx west across Cwm Merwys from the southern monument (SO17566414, southern arc). My ascent ridge (I’d suggest perhaps better as descent ridge) can be seen to left.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by GLADMAN

Toward the north-western flank of Great Rhos ascending the southern headwall of Cwm Merwys – in retrospect.... I’d suggest members wishing to base a circular visit upon Cwm Farm may wish to consider this path for the descent... since the way down from the pair of barrows at the terminus of the northern flank of Cwm Bach (seen left background) is ludicrously steep and arguably better tackled early on! Incidentally, thanks to TSC for prompting a return to Great Rhos after 24 years via a different route.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
GLADMAN
GLADMAN Sep 28, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by thesweetcheat

Looking southwest over Cwm Bwch II. Cwm Bwch III is on top of the opposite ridge, far left.

Image credit: A. Brookes (20.4.2019)
thesweetcheat
thesweetcheat Aug 26, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by thesweetcheat

The northern spur of the escarpment above Cwm Bwch. Barrows I and II are at the end of the spur, right.

Image credit: A. Brookes (20.4.2019)
thesweetcheat
thesweetcheat Aug 26, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by thesweetcheat

The long drop down to Cwm Bwch from the top of the escarpment. Cwm Bwch III can be seen at the top of the slope, left.

Image credit: A. Brookes (20.4.2019)
thesweetcheat
thesweetcheat Aug 26, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by thesweetcheat

Cwm Bwch III. The flat summit of Great Rhos, the highest of the Radnor Forest peaks, rises in the background to the right.

Image credit: A. Brookes (20.4.2019)
thesweetcheat
thesweetcheat Aug 26, 2019
Image of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos (Round Barrow(s)) by thesweetcheat

Cwm Bwch III, the southern barrow of the group. I and II are at the end of the spur visible in the background to the right.

Image credit: A. Brookes (20.4.2019)
thesweetcheat
thesweetcheat Aug 26, 2019

Articles

Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos

GLADMAN
GLADMAN Dec 25, 2019

The Radnor Forest, that compact horseshoe of heather-clad summits rising to the north(ish) of New Radnor, has, for me, always stood aloof within the canon of Welsh mountains; not really belonging, yet nonetheless indispensable to anyone attempting to understand the ‘big picture’. Yeah, despite possessing more than a hint of the unforgiving topography of Y Berwyn and – not surprisingly – that of the not-too-distant Black Mountains, culturally speaking, at least, the distinctly Anglo Saxon nomenclature prevalent here sets the region apart. Too distant from the Mam C’s to facilitate day trips and not easily accommodated within itineraries focussed upon Rhayader, ‘out of sight’ too readily became ‘out of mind’... that is, prior to viewing – in seemingly glacial time – a sprawling, grasping tsunami of hill fog envelope all from the ramparts of the excellent Cefn-y-Gaer hillfort last year. So, the burrowing worm of curiosity was set upon its impetuous course; not quite as dramatically as the Ceti eel larvae scenes in The Wrath of Khan, perhaps, but inexorably nevertheless.

So, one year hence I happen to notice a brief hiatus in the usually inclement Mid Walian weather patterns actually coinciding with my travel plans. For once. Now if I was a religious man – or even Leonard Cohen – I might well have uttered a ‘Hallelujah!’, if only inwardly. However, I’m not, so a wry smile must suffice until, sure enough, blue skies overhead, following an exhausting early morning drive from Essex, confirm we are good to go. That’s both the determined ‘Captain Mainwaring’ me and the counterbalancing ‘Sergeant Wilson – Do you think this is wise?’ me. Somewhat disconcertingly, a full twenty-four years have elapsed since my only previous visit to the 2,165ft summit of Great Rhos; a comparatively recent seven since a sojourn upon the wondrously Silbury-esque Whimble and parent Bache Hill... so Great Rhos it is, then, the approach from the west seemingly most conducive to success, bearing in mind my wonky knees and Harley Dingle-related uncertainties. Well, I like my visits to the hills to be a blast, but not literally so. Furthermore, unlike the aforementioned tops and, indeed, Black Mixen, Great Rhos’s trio of Bronze Age round barrows are not located at the summit, but upon the dramatic northern and southern flanks of Cwm Bwch to the north-west, precipitously plunging facades of grass and rock riven with prominent water-sculptured gulleys. Hey, it’s almost as if the people who erected these monuments knew what they were doing?

A minor road winds its sinuous way northwards from the A44 at Llanegley to eventually terminate within Cwm Ffrwd at – appropriately enough – Cwm Farm, whereby I’m subjected to a rather farcical ‘interrogation’ by a young(ish) farmer-type on a quad bike.... ‘Where are you staying?’... ‘Dunno, depends. Wild camping’.... etc. Mindful of leaving the car unattended for the duration in such circumstances, I bite my tongue. For once. Anyhow, a public footpath ascends very steeply eastwards to attain the summit of Cefn-y-grug at a cross dyke, the western flank of Great Rhos utterly overwhelming the scene beyond despite its ‘modest’ elevation. From here I follow a rather eroded upland byway to the approx south-east to, in turn, gain the southern headwall of Cwm Merwys... leading eventually to the summit. The retrospective views to the west are as exquisite as they are expansive, the captivated gaze drawn toward the distant Cwmdeuddwr Hills and, further to the north, Pumlumon herself. Perhaps not household names to some. But in my opinion, they should be.

However, the summit can – indeed must – wait for a while since it is time to keep an appointment with the southern-most of Great Rhos’s tumuli, this a little to the north at SO17566414. Although bisected by a fenceline, the monument possesses both relatively substantial form and sublime positioning. Although clearly located so as not to overlook Cwm Bwch, the equally, if not superior, setting of the northern barrows is readily apparent across the unseen void. It dawns upon me that the descent to Cwm Bwch will be very, very steep indeed... but such is the overpowering, almost spiritual majesty of this landscape I have no choice but to visit, to experience. To be drawn into the melodrama. I would suggest the Bronze Age architects were only too aware of the possible quasi-hypnotic outcomes of the manipulation of psychosomatic processes up here. I could, quite literally, stay all day upon this wondrous perch... but there is so much to see.

The diversion, to approx south-east, to visit the summit of the mountain is much more arduous than the limited height gain would imply upon the map. Trackless plods across rough, heather-clad upland moor are like that. However, eventually, the concrete OS triangulation pillar is within my grasp, the deep defile of Harley Dingle more-or-less isolating Great Rhos from the rest of Radnor Forest, the craggy, western elevation of Great Creigiau a fine precursor to the great, truncated cone of Whimble itself. Yeah, as monumental an achievement as Silbury is, nobody does it better than Nature. Not so auspicious, perhaps, is the massive antenna standing beside Great Mixen’s summit round barrow. I guess I should also mention that Harley Dingle, a live military firing range even during my first foray here 24 years ago is now, so it would appear, ‘out of bounds’ to walkers following a recent extension of the Danger Area “well beyond the confines of the valley itself.” I’ll post a link within the Miscellaneous section of the Whimble and Bache Hill page for reference.

So I retreat to the north-west and circle the headwall rim of Cwm Bwlch, keeping the forestry line to my right, to descend to the pièce de résistance of the day: the pair of round barrows at SO17586497 and SO17576494. The southern-most is by far the more impressive, perhaps even mirroring the monument seen in skyline profile to good effect across the gaping cwm... however it is the locale, the landscape context.... which truly blows my mind. Set almost upon the very lip of this grassy spur with vertiginous perspectives down to the valley floor, complete with serpentine stream, one simply cannot ask for more from an upland monument. To the approx west, I make out the ‘Shepherd’s Tump’, another round barrow overlooking Cwm Ffrwdd from the north. I had intended to visit, but all focus is now upon enjoying the moment. And then reaching the car. In one piece. Without plummeting headfirst to oblivion.

The descent to Cwm Bwch is as ludicrously steep as I anticipate, verging upon the perpendicular, in fact. And, furthermore, is followed by an unbidden uphill grind to the cross dyke upon Cefn-y-grug upon reaching the nascent river. Just what I wanted at the end of the day. Not. Nevertheless, the hardship is but fleeting, relatively speaking. The retrospective of the barrow-crowned horseshoe is music to my eyes; the near-silent ambience, enlivened by just the subliminal sound of water upon displaced rock... and my own heavy breathing... likewise to my ears. A near-perfect natural symphony so complex as to overwhelm narrative cognition. Yet so simple.

If the insights of Newton are anything to go by I reckon Nature is pretty pleased with Cwm Bach.

Miscellaneous

Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos
Round Barrow(s)
thesweetcheat
thesweetcheat Aug 13, 2019

Three round barrows located on the top of the curving escarpment edge either side of Cwm Bwch, on the northwestern slopes of Great Rhos.

Coflein descriptions, north-south:

Cwm Bwch I at SO17586497

One of two barrows, 11m in diameter and 0.9m high.

Cwm Bwch II at SO17576494

14m in diameter and 1.1m high, mutilated to the E.

Cwm Bwch III at SO17566414

Remains of a round barrow, situated in enclosed moorland on the edge of a prominent west-facing terrace on the summit of a ridge within Radnor Forest. The grass and heather covered barrow is circular on plan and measures about 12.5m in diameter and up to 1.2m in height.

Sites within 20km of Cwm Bwch, Great Rhos

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