Aran Fawddwy seen from Glasgwm to the south. The intervening ground is mostly a bog, crossed by a hilariously rotting series of narrow planks which threaten to snap, or tip the unwary into black depths.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
Images
Aran Fawddwy, with Creiglyn Dyfi nestling below. From Drws Bach to the south.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
A very substantial monument.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
Looking east along Llaethnant, the nascent Afon Dyfi. Buffeting winds kept me from getting any closer to the drop.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
Looking north towards Aran Benllyn, quite the contrast to the zero visibility as I slogged over that mountain an hour earlier.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
Looking towards the unmistakable profile of Cader Idris, right skyline.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
The cairn is built onto some massive outcrops.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
First sight of the cairn after climbing the ridge, as the morning fog finally lifted.
Image credit: A. Brookes (18.4.2023)
Aran Fawddwy is centre of image, viewed from the northern flanks of Foel Dugoed to the south.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Following Moss’s post this morning this is my (sort of) tribute to John Piper’s ‘Rise of the Dovey’.... the great cairn crowns the 2,969ft summit, top left, the Creiglyn Dyfi, source of the river, glowering below. The viewpoint of Drysgol is subtly different to that from Drws Bach (which arguably has a finer view down into Hengwm)....
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The cairn sits upon the edge of the precipice...
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Guess the OS trig pillar is more in keeping with the vibe than the usual concrete affair... regardless, fine cairn at as near as dammit 3,000 ft... this view emphasising how the erectors utilised the underlying summit crags in the manner of Foel Grach. There is a lot more material the other side.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Approx west toward Y Rhinogydd upon the skyline.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Looking approx north-east from the great cairn...
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The correlation between great cairn (perched upon the very lip of the summit, top left) and river source (Creiglyn Dyfi) of course can never be more than supposition... but it certainly makes for an overpowering vision. From Drws Bach.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Cadair Idris from Aran Fawddwy’s great stone pile..
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Toward the sister peak – the strangely cairnless – Aran Benllyn.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Mist descends upon the great cairn... if you choose to come, please be safe and know your compass bearings.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Retrospective of the ascent ridge across the cairn footprint. The additional cairns in line of sight are, as far as I’m aware, marker cairns.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Looking approx east from the great cairn... tracing the course of the Llaethnant as it cascades from the wondrous Creiglyn Dyfi... toward maturity as the Afon Dyfi, ending its journey to the sea between Pumlumon and Cadair Idris
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
In my opinion... while not the largest of Wales’ upland cairns, it has a good shout for being the largest of her seriously upland cairns. And arguably best placed, too.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The great stone pile quite literally stands upon the edge of the abyss... no doubt material has taken the long drop over the millennia.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The cairn is perched overlooking the Creiglyn Dyfi, source of the Afon Dyfi.... however the upland lake was even more enigmatic today, periodically obscured by temperature inversion. Looking approx north-east.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The monument, crowned by a wobbly OS trig pillar, is arguably not as upstanding as Coflein suggests? (i.e c13ft/4m)... however, the location simply blew my mind upon returning following a couple of decades away.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Toward quite possibly Wales’ finest sited upland cairn?...
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The great cairn surmounting Aran Fawddwy rises top left of image overlooking the Creiglyn Dyfi, source of the Afon Dyfi (River Dovey). The nascent river exiting this wondrous body of water is known as Llaethnant... ‘milky stream’, an obvious reference to its youthful alacrity. The apparent symbolism is perhaps overwhelming. The viewpoint is Drysgol, some 22 years ago now. Must get back before I no longer can.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
To my knowledge there is but the one ancient cairn gracing the the high Arans... (if you know otherwise, do tell)... so it is perhaps fitting that this is (according to Coflein) a massive c4m high monument surmounting the 2,969ft summit of Aran Fawddwy, the sentinel peak... overlooking the source of the Afon Dyfi within the Creiglyn Dyfi (as you might expect).
The viewpoint here is just north of Bwlch y Groes, looking approx west, early one morning late October 2011. The (cairnless) sister peak Aran Benllyn can be seen top right.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Looking across Hengwm toward the summit of Aran Fawddwy (top right), crowned by one of Wales’ larger upland cairns.... the viewpoint is Pen yr Allt Uchaf, the flanks of Drysgol sculptured by millennia of cascading water.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Aran Fawddwy’s summit cairn is so large – c12 to 13ft according to our friends at Coflein – that it virtually seems part of the mountain itself..... here we look towards the (cairnless) sister peak of Aran Benllyn, its twin ‘humps’ perhaps suggesting no monument was deemed necessary as Nature already had it sussed? Arenig Fawr, crowned by another great cairn (doubling as a memorial to a B17 crew) can be seen top left, with Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake) also visible. [Image October 1994]
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The Arans ridge, Aran Fawddwy at left hand end, seen from Cadair Bronwen in the Berwyns.
Image credit: A. Brookes (12.5.2012)
The forbidding peaks of the Aran range, seen from Moel Gyw in the Clwydian Hills, some 25 miles or so to the NE. Aran Fawddwy is the highest peak, on the left.
Image credit: A. Brookes (22.1.2011)
One of those moments when the viewer (thinks he) understands why these high places were venerated so much back then ..... The Arans, as viewed across an (almost) mirror-smooth Llyn Tegid, Y Bala. Aran Fawddwy is the peak furthest from the lens.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Does the placement of Bronze Age burial cairns overlooking river sources – in this case the Afon Dyfi – anticipate the later Iron Age ritual fixation with water? From the western slopes of Foel Hafod-fynydd. The Llaethnant can be seen exiting stage left....
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Looking down upon the source of the Afon Dyfi (River Dovey) from the summit... yet again we have a Bronze Age burial deliberately placed overlooking a river source. Whether the juxtaposition of life source/final resting place was intentional we will of course never know. I believe so, possibly developing into the full blown water cults of the Iron Age.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The great burial cairn is just visible upon the summit of Aran Fawddwy, top right, approaching from Erw y Ddafad-ddu. The lake is Creiglyn Dyfi, source of The River Dovey (Afon Dyfi). Clearly the pilgrimmage was everything in Bronze Age ritual.....
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
The topsy-turvy world of the Arans from Craig y Pant. The great Bronze Age cairn upon Aran Fawddwy, skyline centre left, overlooks the Llaethnant – literally, ‘Milk Brook’ – the infant Afon Dyfi, no less, clearly seen cascading down the gash in the mountainside to left of image.
Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Articles
Aran Fawddwy (2,969ft) is one of Wales’ classic mountains, its volcanic crags deeply scoured and crafted by the unimaginably powerful forces of glaciation to form a towering cathedral of igneous rock. Together with its slightly lower northern neighbour, Aran Benllyn (2,901ft), the landscape might be considered by some – such as I – the archetypal hybrid of North/Mid Walian upland topography: the stark, uncompromising brutality of unforgiving cliff faces offset, tempered, by the softer green of subsidiary ridges and rounded hills overlooking sylvan cwms; valleys where farmers ply their trade much as they have done so for centuries past. Beast and beauty writ large upon the southern extremity of Snowdonia.
It is this (relative) geographical isolation from the traditional mountain heartland of Gwynedd that, in my opinion, accords The Arans their sense of singularity, a perceived notion of uniqueness perhaps only approximated by the equally sublime heights of not-too-distant Cadair Idris. Local history suggests that this ‘aloofness’ may not merely reside in the cognition of the modern traveller, the sentinel peaks namechecking the medieval cymydau (commotes) of Penllyn and Mawddwy... by all accounts, judging by the violent antics of the notorious ‘Red Robbers’ said to reside in and around Cwm Cywarch during the 1500’s, pretty volatile areas back in the day. Furthermore, walkers wishing to visit both main summits will need to set foot upon Erw y Ddafad Ddu... ‘Acre of the Black Sheep’. Hmm.. is there something we should know, Mr Cope? It is therefore fitting that Aran Fawddwy should be crowned by what is – in my opinion, all things considered – Wales’ finest upland Bronze Age cairn. Coflein has this to say:
“Remains of a large cairn located on the summit of Aran Fawddwy. The cairn is stone built and measures up to 16m in diameter and up to 4m in height. An Ordnance Survey triangulation pillar has been erected on the E side of the cairn”
OK, so the dimensions of the stone pile are impressive, although nowadays perhaps not to the degree suggested by the professionals; however, for me, it is the sheer sublimity of placement, the overpowering exquisiteness of location which sets this monument apart. Perched upon the eastern flank of the summit crags, the cairn quite literally stands upon the edge of the abyss, overlooking a vertiginous, perpendicular drop to Creiglyn Dyfi cradled over 1,000ft below. Now I’m well aware words can only convey so much. So imagine, if you will, the late, great Stuart Adamson standing atop this cairn performing an guitar solo (with E-bow, naturally) expressing all the joy, pain, love, sorrow, exhilaration, frustration, altruism, anger, fear, hope.. that, collectively, we call ‘being human’. Hey, that’s what I mean.
Needless to say this dark lake Creiglyn Dyfi has form, being none other than the source of the Afon Dyfi (Dovey), the river undertaking a majestic procession south-westward to Cardigan Bay following a suitably tumultuous birth, erupting from the tarn as Llaethnant or ‘Milk Brook’. Legend has it that St. Tydecho was responsible for this moniker after, er, somewhat miraculously turning the nascent, cascading stream into nutritious dairy produce to assist impoverished locals during times of famine... wondrous chap that he was. However those who have approached Creiglyn Dyfi via Foel Hafod-fynydd – incidentally a fine walk – may well wish to contest the veracity of this incredulous claim. Or not. Nevertheless it is telling, perhaps, that such transcendental occurrences are attributed to the locale; although whether Bronze Age priests were the initiators of such a metaphysical vibe or merely drawn here by pre-existing spiritual memes kept alive by Neolithic locals is no doubt a moot point. Whatever the truth, there is in my view no denying the ‘special relationship’ formed between landscape and human psyche in the vicinity, particularly when looking from above seated in the abode of the gods. Just the spot for a people to set their VIP upon the path to eternity, one might say?
The views are inspiring looking upon a more horizontal – albeit elevated – plane, too, with the long escarpments of Cadair Idris and Y Rhinogydd to the approx west, Snowdonia to the north beyond Aran Benllyn, Y Berwyn to the east... and the green hills of Mid Wales stretching away to the southern horizon. Given clear skies, of course. Although, to be fair, swirling cloud does add an additional, ethereal dimension to proceedings if countered by accurate compass bearings facilitating the way down. Note that the unnamed former occupant(s) of the great cairn are not the only legendary VIPs to be commemorated up hereabouts... as a memorial to SAC Michael ‘Mike’ Aspain upon nearby Drws Bach makes abundantly clear, the RAF St Athan Mountain Rescue gentleman having been killed by lightning whilst on duty during June 1960. There really are no words one can say, so perhaps a brief, silent salute in passing is appropriate. Oh, incidentally two men had to be airlifted off the mountain in January 2014 (just a year before my last ascent) after being paralysed – I kid you not – by another lightning strike. Yeah, Aran Fawddwy can be a dangerous, foreboding place.... primeval forces created it and are at still at work here. Natural forces of a magnitude beyond our limited comprehension. Is it any wonder priests attempted to fill the void?
Arguably the classic route to Aran Fawddwy is the linear traverse of the main ridge starting from Llanuwchllyn at the southern end of Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake). However my three ascents to the summit ridge over the years have, for logistical reasons, all commenced within the dramatic environs of Cwm Cywarch, as mentioned above the former haunt of the Red Robbers. It is to the credit of the Snowdonia National Park Authority to note that, in addition to managing the very militant local land owners, a (relatively) new car park now alleviates parking issues of yore. I speak from experience, having found myself bogged down to my axle whilst parking upon grass prior to an ascent of Glasgwm back in 2008. Surrounded by towering buttresses of rock, it is a suitably epic spot to begin a foray into these wondrous mountains crowned by quite possibly Wales finest upland cairn. All things considered....
There’s some stoney folklore for this area (and shape changing animals of various colours). But you’ll have to ask GM if he sat on any big blue stones.
[Saint Tydecho,] upon a quarrel between him and Emyr Llydaw (i.e., Emyr, King of Armorica) he came over to Mowddwy and built a temple (teml) there, and kept a good house; that his bed was the blue rock on the side of the valley, and that he wore a hair coat (pais rawn), and was a confessor.
Maelgwn Gwynedd, in the heat of his youth, sent his horses and dogs to be fed by his prayers. Tydecho turned them loose into the mountain; and when they were fetched, though it had been cold winds and hoar frost, they were found fat and strong, and their white colour changed into a gold colour. Maelgwn Gwynedd, provoked at this, took away Tydecho’s oxen; but the next day deer instead of oxen were found in his team aploughing, and a grey wolf drawing the harrow after them.
Maelgwn came with a pack of white dogs to hunt to these rocks, and sat upon Tydecho’s blue stone; but when he endeavoured to get up, he found his backside was quite fastened to the stone that he could not stir, and was so obliged to make matters up with the saint. He sent back his oxen, and gave him for atonement the privilege of sanctuary for a hundred ages so that neither man nor beast could be taken from his land; no battles, or burning, or killing to be admitted there.
From Dafydd Llwyd ap Llewelyn ap Gruffydd‘s account, collected in Lewis Morris’s Celtic Remains (1878).
Sites within 20km of Aran Fawddwy
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Dolddeuli
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Pant Clyd
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Moel Caws (South)
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Carneddau’r Gwragedd
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Nant Helygog
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Moel y Gadfa
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Foel y Geifr
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Pyllau’r Glwfeiriaid
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Mynydd Clywedog
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Foel Dugoed
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Foel Offrwm
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Bryn Cau
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Foel Offrwm, Lower Settlement
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Foel Ystrodur Fawr
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Foel Faner
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Moel y Garnedd, Gwastadros
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Coed Dol-fawr
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Coed Pen-y-Bryn
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Cerrig-yr-Helfa
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Cefn Coch, Y Rhinogydd
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Gau Graig, Cadair Idris
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Pentre Farm
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Coed Croes
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Kenric’s Stone and Llanelltyd Church
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Moel yr Eglwys
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Llymystyn Camp
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Llyn Arran
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Afon y Dolau Gwynion
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Llech Idris
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Mynydd Moel, Cadair Idris
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Foel Cwm-Sian Llwyd
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Craig yr Arian
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Pen-y-Stryda
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Siglem Las
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Foel Cairn
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Carreg-y-tair Eglwys
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Carnedd Gerrig
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Llyn Gafr
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Carneddgerrig
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Cairn, W of Waen Fechen
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Cairn, upon a woodland saddle
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Cairn with kerb
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Cairn, S.W of Woodland saddle
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Craig ty-glas
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Craig y Castell North
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Llyn Cau
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Craig y Castell
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Pen Cad Cymry
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Carnedd Wen
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Maen Llwyd (Bronaber)
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Carnedd Das Eithin
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Cefn Ddwysarn Camp
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Garnedd Wen
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Craig Rhiwarth Cairn I
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Nant yr Olchfa
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Maen Llwyd (Commins Coch)
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Afon Prysor (Cairn to NW of)
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Craig Rhiwarth
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Tal-y-Llyn
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Arenig Fach
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Yr Aran cairns
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Rhyd-y-Gethin (Cairns)
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Craig Rhiwarth Cairn II
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Carnedd Lwyd, Tyrrau Mawr (Cadair Idris)
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