From Dolmen du Rondosec I carried on up the D781 towards Erdeven, it is impossible to miss the stone rows as the road goes right through them, the tall stones will be crowding round on your left and right as you drive through them, extracting from me various whooa's and woww's. These are impressive.
There is a large free car park, and the stones are right next to it. The stones are fence free, those wicked Frenchies have fenced off most of the Carnac stone rows but these are warm and welcoming, and always approachable. I mingled and wandered freely, there are many tall and shapely stones, but unless your looking down a row they can appear higgledy piggledy and random. Understandably I soon went stone blind, a small stone kept following me round asking strange questions, it said it was called Eric, I told it I had a son called Eric, he was here somewhere.
To escape the stone blindness, and the other people we walked off down a shady footpath, there is I think just one row left to follow through the trees. Over the hedge I could see a team of six or so metal detectorists. I wondered if they were officialdom or shameless antiquity thieves, then I wondered if there was much difference.
The path we were following soon widened out and revealed one of the best places in megalithic Brittany.
The shady trees let enough light through their thinly leaved canopy so it wasn't glum and oppressive, they were also tall, but only just taller than the standing stones that stood beneath them. There was only two standing up but there was also two lying down. they were all giants, these are Les Geants de Kerzerho, and they are mighty.
One of the fallen stones is very rectangular and blockish, but the other one is very worn on its top edge, now that it's laid flat it's got worn some more, now it resembles a mini canyon system. Only you can get close to it, onto it, into it, usually it's many feet above your head but you can get close to a part of stone hunting that is usually out of reach.
The tallest stone looks as though it's about to fall apart at any moment, struck by lightning maybe, or re-ercted and stuck back together, I dont know, but it is a good one.
We keep on walking, but soon we run out of stones, there is one last giant and then the foot path goes off to who knows where.
Well a sign points to Mane Bras, "ooh" I think,
"I wonder how far that is?"
It was quite far actually, but the stone rows of Kerjean are on the way so it wasn't dull.
Access: Car park next to the stones at Erdeven. Good even grassy paths between the stones. Travel to Erdeven on the D781. Just to the SE of the village, there is a carpark on the NE side of the road.
Visited Sunday 17 April 2005
I first saw these stones in about 1998 on the way to Carnac and was wiped out!
I guess they're less impressive than the various other Carnac alignments in terms of numbers and extent, but they're accessible at all times, beautiful and still damned impressive.
Les Géants de Kerzerho: Les Géants are a walk of a few hundred metres at most on flat, pretty even ground. The path is grassed through the main Kerzerho stones and then a pretty good grass/dirt path (not too muddy when we were there).
The (signposted) path to Les Géants de Kerzerho sets off from very near the car park, on the left as you walk along the main rows.
Visited Sunday 17 April 2005
After a false start missing the path, a short distance down the path, there they were. And very wonderful they are too.
As they're now quite isolated a short distance from the remaining main part of the Kerzerho alignments, it's kind of difficult to get a 'handle' on just why these extra large stones are bunched together like this. Possibly if the intervening stones were still there or if there wasn't vegetation inbetween, it'd make more sense.
Unfortunately, I forgot about the holed stone Julian mentions, as I was unwilling to get TME out of my rucksack in the heavy rain.
The alignments here must have been absolutely magnificent once, as they're still fantastically impressive in their ruin. What it must've been to see them and the other small patches of alignments still evident right across the woods when they were all continuous!
Around the village of Erdeven are tons of goodies. Call me undedicated if you like, but the combination of the weather being so horrible, the lack of time for painting opportunities and the prospect of a very wet 2km walk to see more stuff, didn't appeal. Moth, being a completist wasn't going to miss a thing, so he set off from the car park at Erdeven and began his walk to take in the Kerjean alignments, Kerherzo alignments, Mane Braz dolmens, Coet er bein and La Chaisse de Cesar. I stayed in car, driving it up to a place to get a good view of the Kerherzo alignments.
I lit a fag, got out a flask of tea and my sketchbook and while munching on a pain au chocolat, made a little study.