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Visited 14th May 2012

Wrote impressions down immediately after the visit “Brilliantly atmospheric site overlooking Bantry Bay and the western mountains”. This site is well signposted and involves an uphill walk on a narrow road. It is possible to drive up but parking spaces very limited.

In his superb little book “Exploring West Cork” Jack Roberts has written about Kealkil as follows:

“This is deservedly one of the best known and most important sites in the area consisting of an alignment of two large standing stones, a five stone circle and a radial cairn. The site is situated on a hill to the south of Kealkil village and is sign posted at major junctions.

The site was excavated in the 1930’s and the largest of the alignment stones was replaced in its socket. This originally stood at over 5 metres high (17 ft in the original excavation report) but about two metres of the lower portion had broken when it fell. The cairn was one of the earliest radial stone cairns to be properly identified and these comparatively rare and very curious monuments still baffle archaeology in the present day. Perhaps the suggestion that they were used as astronomical calendars is the best interpretation so far put forward but as yet no one has deciphered how they may have served this function. If megalithic architecture was based on a system of orientation and astronomy then this site with its outlook across a mountainous panorama to the west and north could lend itself to a wide range of interpretive possibilities.”

Footnote: The information board says Kealkil is from ‘An Chaolchoill’ meaning ‘the narrow wood’.

This site blew me away, totally unexpected. The credit for finding it goes completely to my companion who is a bit of an OS map devotee. On the other side of Eagle Hill, still with sea views – the path leads first to a large thin standing stone about three fields from the narrow road where we left my friend’s car. Some barbed wire needed to be negotiated as we couldn’t get the gate open (tightly tied up). This site was not signposted so I am guessing we were trespassing.

The wedge tomb is tucked away in the top right hand corner of the field adjacent to the standing stone. It was a perfect small wedge tomb, similar in size to the Cloontreem tomb though in considerably better condition. There seemed to be cup marks on the inside wall of one of the upright stones. A curved row of stones drops down from the tomb towards the standing stone a field away. I had a distinct feeling that tomb and the standing stone were linked together as one site.

16th May 2012:

Back in Castletownbere and a beautiful sunny day, we follow the sign pointing to the Derrymihane West Boulder Burial and Cloontreem (Clountreem) Wedge Tomb. We opt for a walk uphill to look for the wedge tomb on Eagle Hill. The walk is way marked and we were told by a friendly local resident that the capstone has fallen so easy to miss. And miss it we did; it didn’t seem to matter much though as we sat for a while in the lea of some rocks looking out over Bere Haven Harbour glistening in the sunshine. On the way back down we stuck to the trail path and there it was right in front of us. This was the first wedge tomb I had seen and it was much smaller than I imagined and camouflaged by the larger surrounding natural rocks.

The local resident who had given us directions earlier also said there was the shape of a deer on the fallen capstone – we did see this though thought it might be a horse.

Note: there had been a spell of dry weather so the going was relatively easy but be aware this is peat bog land.

Found this lovely stone circle quite by chance. Whilst wandering around Castletownbere we read about it on an tourist information board. Very easy to find as just uphill out of the town and well signposted. In Jack Robert’s “The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula” it is described as follows: “The Stone Circle can be found in a field on the right of the lane less than 2 km from the main road. Mind you go left at the one junction. The orientation of this circle seems to be towards the Equinox sun-set. The land around the circle, particularly on the west side, contains much burnt material and in the neighbouring field is a Fulach Fiadh, or ancient cooking place.”

Close by is Teerniatallane (Tir na hAiohleann) Ring Fort.

Visited 13th May 2012

We went from the village of Ardgroom up a narrow road – circle is well signposted and there is also a heavy duty metal information board by the field entrance. Very boggy though there are stepping stones through the wettest part of the field. This is a circle that speaks very much for itself – views towards the sea were breathtaking.

Jack Rogers writes: “Also known as Canfea Circle. Of two Stone Circles to be found in the lowlands between Ardgroom harbour and the hills. The circle consists of 11 stones, 9 of which are still upright and one Alignment stone outside the circle. Note the little wall that runs through the site as at Kilmacowen. There is also some fine Ring Forts in the area.”

Just as a little footnote: I was aware of a large attractive cow at the edge of the field as we walked across to the circle, when I stopped to read the information board on the way back she came rushing over at disconcerting speed. My companion pointed out that there was a newly born calf lying concealed in the marsh grass – the mother cow stood protectively over it until we had walked away.

Sunday 13th May 2012

I loved this site because visiting it happened quite by chance. After travelling over the Healy Pass with lots “don’t look down moments” we were on our to Ardgroom. Julian Cope doesn’t mention Cashelkeelty in his Megalithic European section on Cork because it is actually just across the border into Kerry. The green lettered heritage sign was spotted as we drove by so we walked back to investigate without knowing what to expect. A steep climb up through an other-worldly, mossy woodland with waterfalls and streams splashing around us brought us out onto a rocky mountainside track. Another steep walk up the track to what seemed to be a large outlier and small cluster of stones before reaching the main cluster of standing stones. Not sure if I would describe them as circles but they were certainly arranged in two groupings of stones. This was my very first experience of the standing stones of the (circles/alignments) on the Beara Peninsula.

Jack Roberts in his definitive guide ‘The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula’ describes Cashelkeelty as follows:

“These sites are situated close to a stretch of old trackway, now part of the Beara Way route, known as the ‘Old Green Road’. There are two circles but only one of them is recognisable as a circle. This is one of the few sites that have been archaeologically examined and excavations identified the second circle.”

As I was to later discover when visiting other sites on the Beara Peninsula – the view is everything. On the side of a mountain, overlooking the sea. A cuckoo was calling ...

This one is dedicated to my Mum!

Visited 12th May 2012 – on the drive from Wexford to West Cork after an overnight ferry stop. Inspired to visit by Ken Williams’ beautiful photos, this site fully lives up to expectations. Magical seems to be the only word to describe it – enclosed in a small grove of oak trees, bluebells and stitchwort all around, foxgloves waiting to open, there is indeed something faery-like about the place. It is a magnificent portal tomb, comparable to Carreg Samson on the other side of the Irish Sea.

Situated near the Waterford county border, take the R682 keeping an eye out for a green lettered heritage sign. Take a signposted turning off this road on the way to Tramore – keep driving until you see another heritage sign pointing the way. The nearby house/farm has had stone walls built with large security gates seeming to obstruct the lane up to the dolmen. Do not be put off – they have built a gap into the stone wall for people to walk through, then just a few metres up the lane. Well signposted.

I visited Carreg Samson yesterday on the way home from the Fishguard ferry. Almost declined the suggestion to make the detour as by this time travel weary and a long journey still ahead.

What an uplifting experience – midday yesterday the sky and sea were sparkling blue. My friend drove to Abercastle via Mathry from where we took a short walk along the coast path to a signpost pointing uphill – quite accessible as steps have been laid. Carreg Samson lived up to all my expectations and felt very much in keeping with the sites I had just been visiting in West Cork as again, facing out to sea. This visit somehow made light of the long drive back to Wiltshire which lay ahead.

Not possible to visit this site as I was told it is on “very private property.”

Today (yesterday now) I made the long bus journey to Amesbury – really worth the effort. The small exhibition in what appears to be an old scout hut grandly called Mellor Hall really captured my imagination. Lots of exhibits of flint arrow heads and auroch bones which have been found at Vespasian’s Camp, also at the nearby site of a spring known as Blick Mead. Vespasian’s Camp is located 1.5km between Stonehenge and Durrington Walls. It overlooks the Avenue and Bluestonehenge on its western side and the river Avon to the south and east.

Excavations on what was thought to be an Iron Age hillfort reveal the site is much older than previously thought. The finds date back to the Mesolithic period making it 8000 years old; 10,000 pieces of flint and bone have been found. It had previously been dismissed by archaeologists as is in the grounds of Amesbury Abbey which were subject to extensive landscaping in the 18th century. However, David Jacques, Open University students and volunteers undertook small scale field work between 2005-2011.

Blick Mead is a small open basin next to Amesbury Park and immediately south of the southern carriage way of the A303. There is a shallow water course running from it which is currently dry and an artificial drain which would take the water down to the river Avon in wetter conditions. Geologist, Peter Hoare, gave a short, very interesting talk about spring sapping and the effect of water tables rising and falling. He also reported that some dumping of materials had taken place during the building of the A303 which accounted for a layer of clay and flint below the chalk bed rock.

Went past this long barrow today while walking along the Gloucester Way from the village of Coberley. The most notable thing about this barrow is its position – perched on the side of a hill overlooking a beautiful valley known as Coldwell Bottom. The barrow is fairly ruinous with the appearance of being split in two. Many people’s feet have formed a footpath through the centre of the barrow. We climbed over a gate to take a closer look and from the far side of the barrow dips made by excavations can be more clearly seen.

It may be worth mentioning for those who like springs that in the nearby village of Coberley near the village green is a bubbling spring flowing fast and clear.

Tried to visit this hillfort today while out walking around the Coates area. Have to report defeat on this one though note thesweetcheat managed it. We were heading for the ‘source’ of the Thames which seems significantly very close to the hillfort. Entering by a gate through woodland (no ‘private’ notices though it felt private) we came up against a deep walled ditch – so turned back. The OS map shows Trewsbury House inside the hillfort:
britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/en-129296-trewsbury-house-coates/osmap

Quite unusual and made us less inclined to press on – could also hear what sounded like a flock of geese ...

We found the ‘source’ of the Thames marked by a large granite stone – now a dry spring.

Visited 21/2/2012

Out walking – started on the Ridgeway from the bridleway opposite the downland path to the village of Ashbury. Walking to Ashdown, I hadn’t made the connection between the two places before. A gentle walk through Hayley Wood and Middle Wood with the small Iron Age hillfort of Alfred’s Castle visible through the leafless trees.

The path through the woods leads directly down to Ashdown House which is currently undergoing renovation and not visible from behind protective sheeting and scaffolding. The small carpark with a National Trust information board is next to the sarsen drift field which, although lacking the other worldly quality of Fyfield Down and Lockeridge, still has a wonderful atmosphere all of its own. It lies at the foot of Weathercock Hill which today had a herd of deer grazing peacefully. Walking through the sarsen drift field it seemed some of the stones were not a random scatter but arranged in a stone row.

Up Weathercock Hill, we appeared to be shadowing the herd of deer for much of our walk. A red kite glided overhead. Further along we encountered a much smaller herd of stags. Back to the Ridgeway with a fabulous view of Uffington Castle which, from this perspective, seems to be on a promontory much like Barbury.

The rest of the walk was about a mile along the Ridgeway taking in Waylands Smithy. Always, always an uplifting experience.

I had previously only seen Aldbourne barrows from a distance while walking uphill on a footpath towards Upper Upham. Today I visited for the first time, walking the ancient Albourne Trackway (see post by Chance) uphill out of the village of Aldbourne. It was a bright, windy afternoon; the track did indeed ‘feel’ ancient becoming a green path after about 300 metres out of Aldbourne. The landscape was Wiltshire through and through, though being further north and relatively close to the M4 motorway it is less familiar that the Marlborough Downs.

The four Bronze Age round barrows are large and undamaged with the exception of the third one which seems to have its top missing. What is remarkable about this site is its alignments. A disc barrow is immediately below in the next field, not visible from the barrows but just a short walk downhill. Looking directly south, at approximately the same height at the four barrows, the Giant’s Grave long barrow can be seen on the horizon.

This week I’m a refugee from some building work in my home; on Monday I visited Avebury on a bright and frosty morning. Sort fell in love with the place again after a period of disenchantment. Today, still on the run from building dust, I headed back out there with a walking companion. My friend parked in the West Kennet lay-by and we headed up towards the White Horse Trail in search of the Harestone Down stone circle. I first read about this site many years ago in Terence Meaden’s book ‘The Secret’s of the Avebury Stones’ (this was also the first book I bought about Avebury) but had never got around to visiting.

We headed towards East Kennet and took the green track up to some fields where East Kennet long barrow was visible. Following the White Horse Trail uphill we came to an area of rough grass on a hillock – climbed over what looked like a wooden horse jump to get up to a scatter of large sarsen stones – at first glance there did not seem to be any particular circle like structure, though we noticed one deeply grooved stone. What deeply impressed me, however, was the absolutely astonishing panoramic view. Stretched out before us was not only a great view of East Kennet long barrow but also clear views of West Kennet long barrow, Silbury, Avebury, and in the distance Windmill Hill. This must be one of the best views in the whole of Wiltshire.

Unfortunately, I discovered the battery in my camera was flat and I had left my spare charging so only managed to get a couple of pics before my camera turned itself off. It didn’t matter though, the clouds made the sky and landscape majestic – no photo of mine could ever do it justice.

From Harestone Down we headed to Langdean stone circle (also mentioned in Terence Meaden’s book). I looked back at Harestone as we walked away heading south and have to say a stone circle did seem to take shape around the tussocky mound. We stopped for a bit in a field with three or four sarsen clusters in it. Something about this field reminded me of Piggledene though the stones were not scattered as they are there.

I’m no archaeologist nor do I have any aspirations in that direction – I can only report on my impressions when visiting ancient sites/landscapes. My impression of Langdean is that it is a sarsen drift as there is a scatter of stones clustered in a valley bottom. It is true that one of these groupings of stones was circle like.

We followed a track back to East Kennet village, gifted with some superb views of East Kennet long barrow for most of our walk. Perched on the horizon with its resident trees shorn of leaves, it is a magnificent barrow – seen from the Harestone Down perspective it seemed to be very much in the foreground of this spectacular landscape.