Hob

Sited on the edge of the MoD firing ranges, in an area dripping with prehistoric remains, the Drake Stone is a 30 foot tall sandstone erratic perched conspicuously on a ridge above Coquetdale. It’s prominent profile makes it easily visible as you travel through the valley, and affords the stone itself an extensive view north to the Cheviot massif. It’s not far from the road, but the last 40m or so are very tricky going. It’s easiest to take the path through the trees, and circle around the stone making the last approach from the west rather than the obvious, but very awkward route from the east.

A short distance (10m or so) to the NW is a circular depression in the outcrop which may have been metal-tooled, it’s difficult to say as nearby outcrop bears the same marks, which could be the result of erosion through the strangely convoluted matrix of the sandstone.

Alternatively, just to the west of the stone (Altitude:273m NT 91985, 04435, accuracy: 7m, Garmin E-trex) is a earthfast boulder which could fit the bill for a small bullaun type basin, similar to those described by Beckensall as enhanced natural basins, of which there a couple, each associated with rock art, one a couple of miles to the east at Lordenshaw, and another a similar distance to the NE at Football Cairn.

Neither of the basins near the Drake Stone have been recorded on the Beckensall archive, but if that’s because no-one has heard of them, or because no-one has looked, or if it’s because they looked and discounted the basins, I do not know. See the reference to a ‘Drudical rock basin’ in the folklore post below, either of these basins could be the one mentioned by Murray, although it’s possible that neither of them are the thing he mentioned. To my mind, the smaller of the two is the more likely of the two presented here, as there were faint traces of what could be interpreted as peck marks consistent with those seen on other prehistoric carvings on similar stone. There is the possibility that slightly different punctuation in Murray’s description alters the location of the basin. If the sentence is read: “..the Draag Stone of the Druids, by a small tarn. Near it is a druidical rock basin.” Then the basin is nearer the stone than it is to the lough. I couldn’t find anything nearer to the lough than to the stone, though subsequent visits may prove otherwise (I’m still hoping that there may be there more definite rock art in the vicinity, as there are near the basins at North Lordenshaw and Football Cairn (e))

Regarding the significance of the Drake Stone itself in prehistory, in conjunction with the local folklore about healing children, it seems to me to have been a very likely spot for use throughout the ages. The outcrops around the erratic form natural shelters, making it a high quality vantage point and suitable for Mesolithic wanderers keeping an eye out for animals drinking on the edges of the gravel terraces of the river Coquet. It’s placed on the putative edge of two Bronze Age territories, as is evidenced by the cross dyke a mile or so to the east, for whatever that implies. Equally, it could be just as useful as an Iron Age lookout, having a good view of a major route from the hills to the sea, with intervisibility to a number of beacon hills. This possible use could presumably have continued as recently as the 17thC when one takes into account the endemic Border Reiver activities in the area. Given the position as a good route to pass unobserved from Coquetdale to Redesdale across what is now the MoD ranges, this seems fairly likely.

Regarding any possible ‘ritual’ significance in prehistory, the 19thC reference to druids is obviously an artefact of the predilections of the Victorian craze for all things druidic. But then there’s the tentative idea that the stone’s proximity to Harbottle Lough may have afforded it significance to anyone to whom lakes were somehow connected to the underworld. It would also have been one heck of a platform for any priestly character who was nimble enough to climb it. They’d be silhouetted very well when viewed by a crowd in the valley below. I can see why Murray was happy to accept it as a ‘druidical’ site; it just has that kind of feel to it. If the druids didn’t use this stone, well shame on them, they missed a good venue for a gig. These days it displays a mysterious offering much different from those one normally finds at a bonafide prehistoric site. Instead of flowers, crystals or whatever left by neopagans, there is a small bundle consisting of a metal rod and two brushes tied with a shoelace, presumably left by a member of the strange cult of ‘Bouldering’.

After a child friendly visit during the day, we went back in the dark, with a big lamp, to see if side-lighting would pick out the putative cup mark on the central stone (See Kammer’s photo). Unfortunately, no joy, the photos were blurry and filled with noise.

In retrospect, it was easier to see the possible cupmark in daylight. It’s definitely a small circular depression, but is it natural or man made? Without other examples of cup marks in gneiss to use as points of reference, I think it’s impossible to say one way or the other. A close study of the occurance of similar features may indicate statistical corellation, but even then I supppose that’s not proof of artificial origin.

Stone circles are extra-wonderful places when experienced in the dark. Both here and Avebury give out a totally diffferent type of somethingness when visited at night compared to that which they give out during the day.

August 2006

Summertime again, but this time low overcast, terrible light for viewing rock art. Headed home before it got properly dark, precluding fancy photos.

Still enjoyed it though. Made the acquiaintance of a couple of supremely weird looking Germanic fellas, who had visited not to see the rock carvings per se, but because they had been told that from this spot, the whirlpool of Coryvreckan could be seen. This ties in with thoughts of spiral motifs both here and at Templewood. For apparently Coryvreckan is a formidable natural feature, maybe worthy of note back in the days of rock carving and circle building.

August 2005

Summertime, clear sky, late evening, just before the sun hits the horizon, midge central, but the light hits at the perfect angle, and no-one else there. Lovely.

If you ain’t into climbing over the railings, the camera-onna-stick method of monopod assisted photography can get some nice closeups. I was interested in some motifs which looked like they’d been ‘had at’ in ancient times. As if their meaning or creator had become unwanted, resulting in the deliberate and public desecration (if that’s an applicable word?) of the carvings.

As far as I’m concerned, Achnabreck lived up to the hype.

(But it still dunt beat Ketley Crag for sheer CnR loveliness!)

Even when it’s windy, the walls are high enough to make a nice relaxed picnic quite possible.

This is such a wonderfully secluded and cozy valley, well worth the scary drive up the unfeasibly twisty-steep road to get here. It’s a bit easier from Skye, via a slightly less twisty road, and with the added advantage of the spinning ferry.

Disabled access
Not good for wheelchairs, the incline is steep and uneven. It’s close to the road though, about 20 yards, so quite visitable by those who can’t easily walk far.

August 2006 :-

Had a good mooch about here on a number of occasions over the space of a week at Slockavullin. The top couple of houses of Slockavullin are the ones visible up the bank from the circle. Not far at all, offering the opportunity to easily visit at night.

It has a much nicer atmosphere in the dark. Had the place to myself for hours. Must be careful on those loose cobbles in the nightime rain though.

Much of the time there was spent pondering the possible connection between the spiral carvings here, and the whilpool/waterspout at the nearby Gulf of Corryvreckan. Supposedly, it’s sometimes possible to hear the roaring of the whirlpool from around Kilmartin.

I’m not convinced the double ring is totally artificial. It looks like ‘enhanced natural’ at best. Maybe it’s one of these ones that needs the right light.

August 2005 :-

In terms of accessibility for wheelchairs/buggies, templewood is about as good as it gets. I was immensey chuffed to see it has it’s own disabled parking bay, though it’s also accessible via the car park for the Nether Largie stones (The great X), though this involves a substantially longer route, but then any route would be longer as the Templewood disabled bay couldn’t really be any closer without being in the circle.

Oh, and the spirals are nice too.

One thing that struck me about this place was the excellent view that standing the terrace to the north would give. I didn’t have the time or inclination to run up to check it out, but I bet a good view of the remains of the cairn could be had from up there.

The ground around the cairn is ridiculously uneven, the fairly dry parts were ankle-twistingly rutted, the surface obscured by grass, and the boggier bits were at least 8 inches deep in quagmire (They may have been deeper, but I pulled my foot out).

Yet the cairn itself is rather nice. I’d love to see it in winter when the undergrowth is asleep.

The way the outcrop seems to be the edge of a ledge, got me to wondering if the whole ‘terraced’ aspect of the Kilmartin landscape might have been subtly different in ages gone by. Particularly in that at some point, there may have been lots more outcrop, before the soil built up. The theorised processional routes may have been lined with stone ridges I got to thinking. Then again, it could be that the edge here is the result of quarrying at some point? That happens a lot with Northumbrian rock art, but I don’t know if Kilmartin rock art ever suffered in the same way.

Wheelchair access is not good, even though the path is fenced off from here to Dunchraigaig cairn, it’s on a serious camber, so chairs would probably tip to the side.

The carpark opposite the cairn is the starting point to visit the cairn, then to the left north), Baluachraig and then to the right, Ballymeanoch stones and henge. Paths lead from Dunchraigaig to each of the other sites.

Disabled access to Dunchraigaig is possible, but involves a short hop over the main road, which could be a bit hairy.

Dunchraigaig cairn has a couple of cists, the outer one easiest to see, with another peeking from the top. There’s also a small group of stones to the left of the cairn (as you’re looking from the road), I have no idea what these might be, but they may be connected with the cairn in some way.

We found this site barely accessible with a 3-wheeler buggy. It’s pretty steep and rocky on the way up, and very rough, bumpy stuff up at the top. Some of the bumps and ridges between the two panels have hints of natural features used as enclosure/boundaries. Difficult to say though as he natural strata appear to just go their own way and not ay heed to what humans might expect them to do.

The first panel you come to is the one which is allegedly makes use of natural cracks in the schist to create a fishlike motif. It takes a bit of a stretch of the imagination, but I suppose it could be a fish, but only just. It’s not exactly fishlike in the way that the Australian rock engravings look like fish, but I suspect the person who first suggested the fish theme may well have seen some of the Aboriginal motifs and may have just imposed the idea onto some otherwise random cracks in the surface at Cairnbaan.

The top panel is a joy to behold. I loved the way the different elements contribute and connect into the whole. High quality rock art.

Careful not to Park in the hotel car park, as the signs indicate that they might get a bit miffed. The space in front of the row of houses is fine though, the path up to the carvings is between the hotel and the houses.

Despite being well known, well signposted and right close to the road, this site isn’t really accessible to wheelchairs or buggies, though it would be no problem to carry a bairn the short distance from the road, it’s on too much of a slope to get a chair to a position where you could see the carvings.

I wish I’d noticed Rockartuk’s photo of Panel 2, which looks rather special. As it is, I didn’t, so it will have to wait ‘till next time.

I’m pretty sure there are also few cup-marks just above the main panel, outside the lovely metal fence.