Dun Troddan

Dun Troddan

Broch

drewbhoy Jan 5, 2024

T.M. Murchison was minister of Glenelg in the 1930s, and his mother’s people had been shepherds in the area for many generations. His parish history was compiled partly from oral tradition gleaned from older relatives and older parishioners. ‘The most famous antiquities in Glenelg’ he records, ‘are the two brochs or “Pictish towers” in Glenbeg.’ At one time apparently there at least two more, but of these only ‘a heap of jumbled boulders and stones’ remained by this time. Dun Telve and Dun Troddan, however, still stand. It is said when the brochs were being built, stones were handed from the quarry along a chain of men.

A broch or ‘brugh’ is an archaeological term for the late prehistoric round towers found chiefly in the Orkney and Shetland islands and the Western Isles and on the adjacent Scottish mainland. They are round stone-built towers, and are often popularly supposed to have been built by the Picts or Pechts. Here, however, the brochs are associated with Fionn mac Cumhaill or Fingal and his followers the Fianna, said to have lived in these brochs and resorted to Skye for their hunting. The women of the band, says Murchison, never took food in the presence of their menfolk, but nevertheless remained healthy and beautiful, and the men wondered how the women managed to live on so little nourishment. One day, therefore, while the other men went to Skye, a warrior named Gairidh (pronounced Gary) pretended to be ill and was left lying on his bed, intending to watch the women.

He fell asleep, however, and the women promptly took strong wooden pegs and fastened Gairidh’s seven locks to the bottom of the bed, to keep him out of the way, and they proceed to feast on the finest food that glen or river could produce. Gairidh suddenly awoke, was irritated to find he was fastened to the bed, leapt to his feet with a mighty effort, and in doing so left every lock of his hair and the skin of his skull on the bed. mad with pain, Gairidh rushed out, gathered brushwood which he placed around the locked door, and set fire to the dwelling with the women inside, so that none escaped.

Over in Skye, Fionn and the hunters saw the smoke rising and knew that some terrible disaster taken place. They hurried back, vaulting on their spears over the narrow channel to the mainland. One of them named Reithe did not leap far enough and was drowned, and the name of the place from which he jumped, Kylerhea, is said to be derived from

Caol Reithe, ‘the Narrows of Reithe’.

Fionn and his men found their women dead and Gairidh missing, but at last he was discovered skulking in a cave and was punished.

An almost identical tradition was reported of Knockfarrel by Hugh Miller in 1835, and used by him to account for the name of Glen Garry, said to be where the murderer was torn to pieces. The tale is a better fir for Glenelg, much nearer to Glen Garry, and Murchison adds further local details: at Kylerhea, he says, you can see the marks made by the warriors’ feet as they jumped the water, and at Bernera nearby is a site called Iomair nam Fear More (’the Ridge of the Big Men’), pointed out as the burial place of the ‘Fingalians’ (the Fianna or Fenians).

It is said that once upon a time a bold man began ploughing up the place, in defiance of local warnings. He turned up a human skull, which was so big that it easily fitted over the biggest man present(alleged to be the Rev. Colin MacIver, minister of Glenelg from 1782 to 1829). Just at that point, however, a terrible storm of thunder and lightning arose, and the ploughing speedily ceased and the skull of ‘Gairidh’ or some other Fingalian was promptly buried again.

The Fianna were commonly said to be of giant size, so the finding of an unusually large skull may have helped to associate them with the site.

The Lore Of Scotland – A Guide To Scottish Legends