GLADMAN

Finally scheduling a visit from my usual North Walian base (near Capel Garmon, so quite a drive), this hillfort – I hesitate to use Coflein’s ‘defended enclosure’ designation – certainly did not disappoint: excellent views, excellent surviving archaeology, excellent vibe... hey, just excellent all ‘round, to be fair. Coflein notes:

“This impressive site is situated around the large outcrop of Creigiau Gwinau, a feature that is in fact used as part of the fort’s defences. The outcrop forms a large spine of rock running along a north east – south west axis to the south east of which lies a relatively level area of land measuring about 150 x 50m at its largest extent. To the south and east of this platform the land drops away steeply and it is at this break of slope that a fairly substantial stony bank has been built describing an arc between two ends of the spine,. The bank incorporates substantial outcrops and grounders along its length, particularly to the north east, and also includes stretches of dry stone walling. The original entrance to this fortified area probably lay in an 8m wide gap in the escarpment to the west across which a relatively modern all now stretches. A low dry stone wall divides the interior of the fort into two fairly equal halves although whether this is an original feature or a later addition is unclear....” John Latham RCAHMW 31 July 2018 [Source: National Trust Report: Sean Taylor. 2000. Plas yn Rhiw – The National Trust Archaeological Survey.]

I parked beside the old chapel and accessed the site via the coastal path to the north.

Sited adjacent to Pant Clyd Farm – a little distance from the busy A494 linking Y Bala and Dolgellau beneath the western flanks of the mighty Aranau – is a pretty substantial Bronze Age round cairn, measuring almost 50 feet in diameter.

OK, compared to other such monuments visited by The Citizen Cairn over the years, the intrusive traffic noise does have a somewhat negative impact upon the vibe here.... or maybe that’s just me? Nevertheless, access is straightforward (there is roadside parking and a recognised path accesses the monument within its field) and, furthermore, the very same Sarn Helen encountered at Fforest Fawr is immediately east. Combine a stop here with an extended sojourn at nearby Moel Caws and this is a classic ‘bonus site’, if ever I did encounter one.

Overcome once again by the beyond-scenic splendour of Cadair Idris’s Tyrrau Mawr – or Craig Las, if you prefer – The Citizen Cairn happened to spy a curious cairn-like structure far below, nestled upon the peak’s spendid northeastern shoulder.... hitherto unknown to me. Sure enough, Coflein records:

“Cairn, 5m diameter around a massive boulder, on a high shoulder at 455m on Tyriau Mawr. The monument comprises the remains of a round cairn, probably dating to the Bronze Age (c. 2300 bc -800 bc) and situated within rough grazing on the NE-facing flank of Craig-las. The stone-built cairn is circular on plan and measures 6m in diameter and up to 1.2m in height. There is a fine exposed cist in the centre of the cairn, measuring 0.8m in length by 0.45m transversely and 0 6m in depth. The cairn has been constructed around a large angular boulder, against which the cist has been built. An unusual cairn built around a large angular boulder that has been utilised to form a cist along one side with thick upright slabs and a thin fallen slab – probably a cover slab. The cairn material is subangular and scattered around, probably because it was removed during robbing. The cist is 0.80 x 0.45 x 0.60m deep. The cairn lies in a small hollow on a shelf high up on the side of Tyrrau Mawr, remote and inaccessible and would not have been visible except from the top of Tyrrau Mawr ridge. (Smith, 2001)”

Hmmm. So, here we have a funerary cairn placed where only those on high could see it – whether in the physical, or metaphysical realm? Intriguing.

I admit that I briefly considered a visit. However, that would’ve meant road-bashing all the way back to Hafotty-fach. Now, as much as I am in thrall to my prehistory, the sheer wonder of the uplands still takes precedent every time. I shall endeavour to return next year and approach from below. But don’t hold me to that.

Easily accessed from the nearby single-track road, I wasn’t sure what to make of this, to be honest. ‘Ring cairn’, heavily denuded round cairn... or even an ‘enclosure’ of some description? In my defence, Coflein would appear to be in a similar dilemma:

“A rough circular bank of stones, c.17.5m in diameter, having an OS triangulation pillar at its centre.” [RCAHMW AP965050/66. J. Wiles 30.09.03]

Whatever the truth, the 360-degree views are extensive, the skies massive. However, given the abundance of other sites in the locale, this is (arguably) not somewhere to linger for that long... but nevertheless worth checking out.