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Mynydd Llangyndeyrn

Cairn(s)

<b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMANImage © Robert Gladstone
Nearest Town:Kidwelly (10km SW)
OS Ref (GB):   SN4823913274 / Sheet: 159
Latitude:51° 47' 49.26" N
Longitude:   4° 12' 3.71" W

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<b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN <b>Mynydd Llangyndeyrn</b>Posted by GLADMAN

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We live in confusing times. Hey, tell me about it. Now while the mainspring of such a fragmented current state of affairs is undoubtedly nearly a year and a half (and counting) of world pandemic, the situation is, in my opinion, not mitigated by a lunatic-fringe which inevitably senses opportunity in periods of extreme social and political flux: the wretched anti-government conspiracy theorist; the far-right nationalist bigot; the apologist for murderous Marxist doctrine and regimes... extremists incapable of rational thought or cohesive debate. I look on with a sinking heart as apparently sincere, well-meaning 'activists' proffer the most naively simplistic, self-righteous 'solutions' to the salient issues now facing humankind. Making the assumption that society can be thought of as a complex 'machine' of mutually-supporting 'components', surely only those seeking a common consensus are capable of effecting positive change? If this is indeed so, those advocating 'My way or the highway' resolutions will only cause further division and failure.

Far from providing relief from such tribalistic nonsense - a temporary balm applied to the ragged psyche - a visit to the wondrous, rocky ridge of Llangyndeyrn Hill, not that distant from Cross Hands in the old Welsh kingdom of Dyfed, raises more questions than it provides answers to those still outstanding. Nevertheless visit one must, whether dedicated Citizen Cairn or a traveller imbued with a more casual curiosity, an affinity with the 'underdog'. Firstly, allow me to tackle the obvious 'elephant in the room': if it's so great here, why haven't I, with 30 plus years experience in these parts, visited much sooner... particularly since Kammer noted the existence of the Neolithic chambers of Bwrdd Arthur/Gwal-y-Filiast some 17 years ago?

Well, a brief perusal of the map will suffice to explain - although not excuse - my long-standing oversight by highlighting the Torcoed Quarries devastating the northern aspect of the hill. OK, UNESCO may have seen fit to allocate two of its bizarre quartet of Welsh 'World Heritage Sites' in apparent celebration of the irreversible rape and destruction of the landscape (that is their choice) but I am made of a less robust fibre, such destruction tearing at the very soul. My thanks, therefore, to author Sian Rees, whose CADW guide to Dyfed ultimately left me no choice but to come and discover what I had been missing all these years. For here upon this obscure, industrially ravaged minor hill can be found quite possibly South Wales' finest, most diverse collection of prehistoric monuments. Now one might have expected the aforementioned 'activists' to have taken Llangyndeyrn Hill to their collective hearts, given the outrage exhibited upon Salisbury Plain? My apologies if I am in error.

The morning, although free from the customary precipitation inherent in these parts, belies what would evolve into a blisteringly hot afternoon with a pretty much unbroken canopy of grey as I leave the Mam C's and head down the M4 towards its morphing - at Pont Abraham - into the A48. A touch further north, west of Cross Hands, I weave my way through the quintessential South Walian town of Cwmmawr (if you've ever seen a cartoon by Gren, you'll know what I mean) to Pontyberem and, finally, the open moorland beyond. Parking here, a little before the small village of Crwbin, a track heads north into the hinterland to the left of the farmhouse. I don't feel inspired, to put it bluntly, wondering whether I'm about to squander a precious day's freedom - and a dry one at that - on not very much? Nonetheless, I negotiate my way through thick bracken (an initial hint of the extreme travails to come) and ascend to the low summit rising to my left.

Upon attaining the OS trig station, however, any expectations of disappointment are instantly chucked in the proverbial trash can where they belong. For starters, said optical feature stands upon a 'platform cairn' of substantial diameter, albeit of low elevation; furthermore, a short distance to the approx south-west can be found a rather fine 'kerbed cairn' [SN4820013250] which, if located anywhere else (Dartmoor, for example?), would've been lauded years ago. As indicated, the latter monument possesses the extensive remains of a kerb, several elements of which would appear to have formerly stood upright, mirroring an existing orthostat still in situ. An obvious anomaly is a large stone standing at the approx centre beside the apparent remnants of a cist. Put simply, it looks out of place, doesn't 'fit'. Coflein subsequently resolves the conundrum, the upright identified as being a component of the cist (the capstone?) erected in the recent past by some unknown loon.

I feel rather sheepish as I sit and drink my coffee while the sun inexorably triumphs - for now - in its unending battle with our atmosphere. Yeah, to think I've avoided this place for years when all the while the quarry cannot even be seen from the summit, such is the topography. Not seen, but most certainly heard! A more-or-less constant series of metallic 'clangs', 'thuds' and assorted 'industrial noises' sufficient to have had 1983-era Depeche Mode reaching for their Stellavox SP7 in a frenzy. Hey, should you choose to come here out of work hours, result! As it is, I'm roused from my semi-stupor by a much more organic source: suddenly I'm aware of the presence of a wonky phalanx of bovine muscle intent upon ousting me from their 'manor'. Time you were moooving on up, mup.

Taking the hint - wisely as it turns out since I not only avoid getting squashed but also pass the first of an extended procession of teenage 'trekkers' as I vacate the summit - I search out Bwrdd Arthur, slumbering beneath a rocky outcrop some way to the east. En-route I encounter several cairns marked upon the map of which only the ring cairn [SN4830013250] is positively identifiable, such is the excess vegetation. There is no such impediment when identifying 'Arthur's Table', an excellent (earthfast?) megalithic chamber still bearing impressive capstone in situ. Sadly the Gwal-y-Filiast (Lair of the grey hound bitch'... or shall we say 'She-Wolf's Lair'?), sited to the immediate left (east), has collapsed in upon itself over the course of millennia. Happily, though, the massive capstone and supports remain on-site to hint at what once was. Clearly, this would've been a monster chamber, fully justifying the attributed folklore and legend. The thought arises as to whether both chambers were originally subsumed within a giant long cairn, now long robbed?

I lie back in the sun and watch the world go by... more labouring youths, some not exactly enjoying the delights of the Great Outdoors to a degree perhaps forecasted by the adults... and find myself silently humming (if there can be such a thing?) the melody underpinning "Get out the crane; construction time again..". Psycho cows, giant wolves, notions of Berlin.. or perhaps that should be the 'Kling Klang' of Dusseldorf? Whatever next? How about extreme physical exertion upon the lower eastern flanks of a mere 863ft hill? That'll do. Ha, as that muppet says on the TV ad, it'll more than do. Upon circling around Bwrdd Arthur's rocky outcrop to the east, I find my way barred by chest-high bracken as I attempt to reach a rather fine - nay, excellent - cist at SN48961354. Furthermore, I soon painfully ascertain that this bracken is reinforced by lethal bramble hidden within, impeding onward progress to a farcical degree. I mean, who would have considered the possibility in high summer? OK, obviously not I. A naive, schoolboy error which I determine to overcome with sheer brute force and bloody-mindedness.

To be fair, the cist truly is a magnificent example of the genre, a personal audience worth a couple of minor lacerations. Again, it is almost intact, featuring capstone still in situ, albeit moved aside by the inevitable treasure hunters of yore? Unfortunately, however, a fine ring cairn - said to lie just to its south - is almost undetectable within the mass of verdant green. Time, not to mention energy resources, are now quite unexpectedly at a premium meaning I cannot dally as long as I wish. Particularly since I must somehow retrace my steps through that murderous bracken....

Upon eventually returning to the summit, the dried 'hoof holes' of my bovine friends further impeding progress as I go, I chill out for the final time at the kerbed cairn before making for the car. Needless to say, Mynydd Llangyndeyrn has one more surprise in store: an excellent monolith [SN48021304] which, although not featured upon the map, is of clear prehistoric origin having been excavated and re-erected in the original hole. I can not locate yet another cairn shown upon the map in my current state, so out of necessity, I must call it a day.

With such a magnificent tour de force of prehistory on display here upon this otherwise unremarkable, modest Welsh height, the Citizen Cairn can only hope the quarrying activity so gravely impacting the northern aspect has been set incontrovertible limits. A line drawn in the sand which can not be violated, so to speak. I truly hope so. Perhaps those so heroically protesting against peripheral events upon Salisbury Plain may choose to divert the myopic gaze for a brief time to appreciate what is happening where Guardian journalists can't be bothered to tread... for lack of political capital. I would love to be proved wrong... to stand corrected that Mynydd Llangyndeyrn is already under close local scrutiny to ensure things do not get any worse. "Thanks, but no thanks for stating the bloody obvious... It's all in hand". One can but hope.

Having said that, what with Liverpool having its 'precious' UNESCO WHS status recently rescinded by a panel hosted by that shining world beacon of Marxist human rights and moral integrity, China - which would appear to have reckoned the city's docks should remain a derelict industrial wilderness.. and sod the local people - I wouldn't be too surprised if Wales' fifth UNESCO WHS entry is soon forthcoming: for the Torcoed Quarries, naturally. Let us celebrate another devastated wasteland. Hey, far be it for me to postulate a political motive in UNESCO's actions against the UK Government? Yeah, these are confusing times all right. The safeguarding of our prehistoric heritage as the bedrock of a vibrant, progressive society is too important to let those with ulterior motives go unchallenged.
GLADMAN Posted by GLADMAN
1st August 2021ce
Edited 2nd August 2021ce

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'Kerbed Cairn', Mynydd Llangyndeyrn


Just one of the extensive series of monuments gracing this little Carmarthenshire hill...
GLADMAN Posted by GLADMAN
27th July 2021ce