Images

Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Substantial kerb stones at the northern monument.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Carn Fflur from across the Afon Fflur. Ma mamma told me; they’d be days like this.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Certainly not one of Wales’ largest summit cairns; but pretty substantial, nonetheless. And now minus forestry. Catch the views while you can.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Toward Carn Gron from the summit cairn... the former bearing a trio of summit cairns of its own.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

The map shows the summit cairn to be within forestry. Luckily it wasn’t when I visited a couple of years back.... hence the fine view toward Pontrhydfendigaid.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Summit cairn – the central cairn can be seen below (approx centre right) with the western to its right.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

The central cairn reveals ‘possible cist elements’.... according to Coflein; suffice to say I reckoned that to be a capstone.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

From the east(ish)... the central cairn is truly a big bugger. Bryngwyn Bach, with further – if smaller – monuments lies beyond to the left.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Toward the summit... crowned by another excellent cairn... from the central cairn. The rucksack emphasises the sheer scale of this massive monument.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Carn Gron viewed from the truly massive central cairn...

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

The northern cairn – SN74206245. With kerb.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

The northern cairn of Carn Fflur’s cemetery at SN74206245. Note the kerb stones...

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

The massive central cairn from the south(ish) – SN74276228

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Looking eastward to the summit of Carn Fflur from the western ring cairn.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Perhaps it is coincidence that the Afon Fflur (’River of Flowers’) is overlooked on all sides by Bronze Age funerary cairns following its source upon Carn Gron? Perhaps not. Here we look straight toward Carn Fflur (and its quartet of massive monuments) along the course of the river to approx north-west. It is also perhaps significant that the ruined Cistercian abbey of Ystrad Fflur (Strata Florida) is nearby, also name checking the river.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

The western ring cairn possesses a massive cist... overgrown though!

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Probable ring cairn (according to Coflein) to the west at SN73956233. The course of the Afon Fflur can be determined beyond.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone
Image of Carn Fflur (Barrow / Cairn Cemetery) by GLADMAN

Coflein reckons there are ‘possible cist elements’ within the central hollow of the summit cairn. The cist was acting as the repository of a beer bottle upon investigation. It is no longer, unless another moron intervenes in the interim.

Image credit: Robert Gladstone

Articles

Carn Fflur

A quartet of large Bronze Age cairns stand upon the summit and western flanks of Carn Fflur, a substantial, afforested hill rising to c1,650ft a couple of miles south of the Cistercian abbey at Strata Florida (Ystrad Fflur). Despite the pedigree of the monastic site – the poet Dafydd ap Gwilym is thought to be buried within its environs, accompanied by numerous Welsh princes of Deheubarth – I’d probably raise a somewhat quizzical eyebrow in surprise... Roger Moore style.... should any member be able to pinpoint Carn Fflur’s great cemetery on the map at the first time of asking. No cheating now. Needless to say we will never know the identity of the Bronze Age forbears once interned within the great stone piles; however I can’t help feeling they should be accorded at least the same respect as their illustrious followers. A naive notion, perhaps?

I approach the ‘Cairn of Flowers’ from Bryngwyn Bach, the unassuming high ground to the west. Now there are at least two good reasons for this; primarily to visit the excellent half dozen Bronze Age cairns located upon the latter’s north-western slopes... and also to avoid sinking, possibly without trace, within the unfeasibly boggy valley separating the western bank of the Afon Fflur from the lower hill. The river, sourced upon the flanks of Carn Gron to the south, certainly appears to be the focal point of this landscape, not least for an almost ‘Pumlumon-esque’ concentration of funerary cairns. It is very difficult not to assume at least some correlation between these monuments and the naturally exuberant, flowing water.... the very epitome of vitality, of life itself. Not that I feel that ‘vigorous’ – at least in the physical sense – as I struggle to cross the deep gulley inexorably carved in the hillside.

Carn Fflur’s western cairn lies just beyond at SN73956233, although not depicted upon the current 1:50k OS map. According to Coflein it is a..“probable ring cairn, c.16m in diameter & 0.75m high set eccentrically within a possibly later turf-covered stony ring, c.36m in diameter”. Although the least substantial and well defined cairn of the quartet, not to mention rather overgrown, the site possesses a large, well preserved cist. Can’t argue with that. Next up is a nice round cairn set upon the north-western slopes of the hill at SN74206245. “10m in diameter & 0.5m high”, the outstanding feature is the “remains of an orthostatic kerb-ring on the S & W..”

So, onward and upward to the summit? Er, not yet. Since set upon the steep rise to the approx south of the northern monument at SN74276228 stands a massive cairn which, to be honest, appeared much more substantial than the dimensions attributed to it by Coflein (“24m in diameter & 1.5m high”). The location is excellent with far reaching views to north, west and south toward Carn Gron, the summit cairn of Carn Fflur rearing up upon the eastern horizon to complete the set. The cairn possesses internal detail, Coflein noting “a central disturbance / hollow revealing possible cist elements”. Yeah, I concur with that. In addition there is “an embayment on the NW side & an annex, 6.0m across on the NE, are thought to be original features”. Clearly this was – is – a complex, enigmatic monument. What is it doing here languishing – or should that be ‘revelling’ – in utter obscurity? I’m truly gob-smacked. And that’s a fact.

I finally clamber up through woodland to the top of Carn Fflur to find the summit cleared of trees. Unfortunately this has resulted in a hill top perhaps resembling a landscape in the devastated aftermath of a hurricane strike. Not a pretty sight. There are compensations, however.... yeah, the large round cairn crowing the summit “25m in diameter & .8m high” is accorded sweeping views, except upon the eastern arc where forestry still prevails. Although by no means the largest such sentinel cairn I’ve had the great pleasure – not to mention privilege – to spend some time upon, this is a fine, well preserved example of the genre. Again Coflein cite “a central hollow shows possible cist elements”. Regrettably I found the internal space defiled by a beer bottle discarded by some individual with ‘issues’. The beer was of classy origin. Very unlike its erstwhile owner. Needless to say it is there no longer. Anyway as I sit several rain fronts sweep in to give me quick ‘working overs’. Soon, however, they are gone and the sun illuminates the scene with a golden glow. Aye, perfection, my perch the ideal spot to observe the surrounding landscape. Carn Fflur might not be the biggest of peaks, even relative to Mid Wales. But it certainly doesn’t disappoint in the vibe stakes.

Walking – nay, wading at times – back to the car (no doubt much to the amused bemusement of the farmer working the field across the river in his tractor) I deliberate upon how Strata Florida has laid claim to the ‘spiritual’ musings of the majority of visitors to this part of Wales. As for myself.... I much prefer the high ground .... of Carn Gron and Carn Fflur. If you decide to come, please make sure you don’t lose your bottle.

[Note: all Coflein quotes are courtesy of J.Wiles (22.07.04)]

Sites within 20km of Carn Fflur