Latest Miscellany

This is an obscure, yet wondrous Bronze Age cairn – some 52ft across – located upon Cnwch Mawr, not far from Llanddewi Brefi in deepest Ceredigion. Unlike many other ancient sites in the locale, this is not annotated upon current OS mapping, meaning a perfect vibe was more-or-less guaranteed.

The monument is substantial and, although I made the usual ‘pig’s ear’ of the approach, access is not too taxing from the southwest via Waun Maenllwyd... suffice to say (in retrospect), ensure you don’t take the direct route across the felled forestry wasteland upon reaching the fence line, but rather circle around to the left. Much easier!!

OK, sure, the weather closed in later on giving me a veritable kicking – and then some. However, hill fog was mercifully absent, ensuring sublime views into Cwm Brefi rewarded a subsequent walkabout. Note that the standing stone ‘Carreg Samson’ is nearby should that also interest... plus, of course, the great cairns upon Crug, Garn, Carn Fawr, Pen y Corn, Craig Twrch etc, etc, etc. Wondrous area, this.

Coflein reckons:

“This is a large Bronze Age summit cairn, which has been shown on Ordnance Survey maps since the Original Surveyors drawing were made in the early 19th century. It has suffered some disturbance over the centuries, but still survives as a substantial stone cairn, 16 metres in diameter and up to 1.25 metres high. A small shelter has been built on its eastern side” [R.P.Sambrook, Trysor, 26 March 2013]

Although located close to the farm of Caer Cadwgan, this impressive hillfort, overlooking Cwm Ffrwd Cynon near Lampeter, is traditionally known as Caer Maurice (as confirmed by such an annotation upon the original OS maps of 1834).

For once – yeah, it happens occasionally – The Citizen Cairn is pleased to relate that, although not directly accessed by a public right of way, a concessionary path has been negotiated for visitors. This is to be applauded as an example to other landowners harbouring designs towards embracing community responsibility since this is a hillfort to cherish. Substantial remains and sublime views: what’s not to like?

A very well-preserved Iron Age round house site, approximately halfway between the Neolithic Carneddau Hengwm and the Bronze Age Hengwm cairn circle.

Excavated in 2003 by University of Bangor and Gwynedd Archaeological Trust staff.

GAT description:

A “concentric circle” type homestead of Prehistoric date (c. 500 BC) enclosed by massive circular stone banks. The site is located to the east of Tyddyn-y-felin and has other remains associated to the south.

Sources :
Riley, H. & Roberts, R. , 1995 , Ceilwart to Barmouth Mains Refurbishment: Archaeological Assessment

Now, you know how it is? How some things can linger upon the ‘to do at some point’ list for, well... ages, right? Anyway, for some reason this site, hidden away upon the north-eastern flanks of Y Carneddau’s Creigiau Gleision, finally bubbled away to the top of The Citizen Cairn’s version. Good thing, too, since the monument, some 40ft in diameter, is pretty substantial.... the views sublime.

I approached via the unfeasibly steep Llyn Cowlyd access road from Trefriw crossing Cefn Cyfarwydd (we’re talking Hardknott/Wrynose Pass-grade inclines here) traversed numerous times before in passing. A lesson that one must always look to indulge the supporting cast of any story.

The glorious rainbows were the icing on the proverbial cake and – speaking of ice – well worth the fast moving hail showers disgorging their frozen cargo ‘at pace’, as muppet project managers like to say nowadays.

CADW’s scheduling notes:

“Remains of a burial cairn, probably dating to the Bronze Age on the SE-facing slopes of Cefn Cyfarwydd. Circular in plan, measuring c. 12m diameter and up to 1.2m in height. The cairn has a large hollow at its centre, presumably the result of antiquarian investigation. A small marker cairn has been built on the S. side of the cairn. FF 13/01/2004”

Directions to Mochrum Fell (Elrig): Take the A747 Port William turn off the A75 at Glenluce. Stay on the A747 for c. 6.6 miles to an unsigned left turn onto the B7005 at NX 27136 49953. Travel on the B7005 for c. 2.2 miles to reach a minor road signed for Kirkcowan. Continue on the B7005 for c. 300 yards to a track opposite Culshabbin Schoolhouse at NX 30667 51023. There is room to park up here. Follow the track S for c. 0.5 mile. Turn right at NX 3104 5036 onto a vague path heading W through rough ground. Stay on this path heading uphill to the obvious summit of Mochrum Fell. The cairn is on the summit of Mochrum Fell. My route is viewable on Mochrum Fell (Elrig) Cairn.

Directions to Elrig Cairn: Take the Elrig turn off the A747 Portwilliam road. Follow the road for c. 1.3 miles to a junction with Elrig Farm road at the edge of the village. There is room to park at the junction. Walk c. 400 yards up the road to reach a gate on your left. Follow a winding path N through the field to a gate. Elrig Cairn is c. 100 yards WNW in the adjacent field.

Directions to Cairnhouse E Cairn: Take the A714 Wigtown road from the A75 roundabout at Newton Stewart. Stay on the road for c. 3.9 miles to an unsigned turn off to Cairnhouse Farm. Bear right onto the single track lane to Cairnhouse farm. Travel c. 500 yards down the farm lane to a lay-by at NX 4187 5828. Walk c. 175 yards S towards Cairnhouse Farm on the margin of the field. The mound is located to the rear of the farmhouse enclosed by a stone wall. My route is viewable on Cairnhouse E Cairn.

Directions to High Baltersan Cairn: Take the Wigtown road off the A75 Newton Stewart roundabout. Stay on the road for c. 1.6 miles. Take a right turn down an unsigned single track road with passing places. After c. 0.7 miles turn left. Park up after c. 75 yards opposite a gate. High Baltersan Cairn is c. 160 yards ESE of the gate up a grassy slope, located c. 15 yards E of a natural rocky knoll. My route is viewable on High Baltersan Cairn.

Directions to Cairn Hill (Barraer): Take the narrow unsigned road starting at NX 3953 6427 on the A75, c. 1.2 miles W of the A75 roundabout at Newton Stewart. Follow the winding lane for c. 2 miles to reach a lay-by at NX 38464 61246. Follow a rocky track heading W into a field then head uphill to Cairn Hill (Barraer). My route is viewable on Cairn Hill (Barraer).

Directions to Cairn of Knockglass: Take the N turn off the A75 to Creetown. Park up in a lay-by on the left at NX 4707 5993 after 0.5 miles. Walk c. 450 yards N along the road to a path starting at NX 4684 6016. Follow the path through a wood for c. 0.4 mile to reach a junction. Turn right onto an uphill track heading NE. Follow this track for c. 0.5 miles to NX 4761 6114. Turn left following a track along the margin of a field for c. 400 yards to a ruined farm. Cairn of Knockglass is located c. 100 yards E in the field.

Directions to St Mirren’s Well: Take the Tak-ma-Doon road, signed for Carronbridge, off the A803 Stirling Road in Kilsyth. Follow this narrow road for c. 1.1 miles to park in a lay-by opposite a quarry. Walk c. 120 yards up the road to a gateway. There is a ford c. 5 yards from the gateway so wellies are advised. After crossing the ford head uphill towards a gate into the adjacent field. St Mirren’s Well is c. 150 yards W of the gate in a patch of rough grass.

Directions to Cairn Wood (Barskeoch): The route to Cairn Wood (Barskeoch) follows the old military road from Blackpark farm c. 1 mile W of Newton Stewart. There is space for a car to park at the junction with the A75. The final approach follows a track through fields to a cairn hidden in a wood. My route can be viewed on Cairn Wood (Barskeoch).

Directions to Craig Fell N Cairn: There is a small car park at NX 1412 6188. It is preferable to have a bike from this point to reduce your travel time. Follow the Southern Upland Way signs SE for c. 400 yards to reach a locked gate. Follow the rocky road for c. 0.7 mile to a junction at NX 1488 6067 . Turn right then follow the track for c. 1 mile to reach NX 1553 5955. Turn left then travel for c. 2.6 miles to NX 1720 6041. Craig Fell N Cairn is in a clearing c. 80 yards E of the track. Head E for 30 yards through scrubby trees to reach a stone wall. Climb over the wall. Head S between the forest and the wall looking for a vague path E after c. 30 yards. Follow it in a clearing with Craig Fell N Cairn in the centre.

From Canmore:

Numerous interments of human bodies were found, all of them regularly placed, and many of them in Gaelic sarcophagi of four pieces of thin stone. In 1812 was found on the Bass a stone hatchet, among ashes. The site was probably a Bronze Age burial site.

(D Erskine 1828)

A natural mound with an artificial mound on top. To the W and S the artificial mound is indistinguishable from the natural steep slope towards the river. A modern construction called ‘The Temple of the Muse’ in memory of the poet Thomson, is built on top of this artificial mound, which was probably erected to form a base for it.

There are a number of ‘Moelfre’s across the length and breadth of Wales... hardly surprising, since I understand the name basically means ‘hill’. This one, however, has been on my ‘list’ for some time since it is one of the few featuring that iconic ‘Antiquarian typeface’ on the OS map.

To be fair, however, I arrive at Bwlch Glynmyndd to the north-east more in anticipation of the expected views than archaeological splendour. Needless to say, things are not as straightforward as they may appear from a simple perusal of the map.....

OK, the views ARE magnificent, the deeply riven hills north of Pumlumon forming a twisted, convoluted landscape of sublime aesthetics. However, the expected site of the monument, indicated below and to the southwest of the summit, reveals a ‘possible’ circular feature, probably natural? Certainly nothing to write home about. Fortunately, the views most certainly are..

Eventually, I return to the 1,539ft summit and everything suddenly becomes clear. For here is located what very much looks like a substantial Bronze Age round barrow, more-or-less inviolate. As it happens, the professional archaeologists agree, Coflein noting:

“A barrow, 17.5m in diameter, from 0.7m to 2.7m high, apparently undisturbed. There is no notice of any ditch. [J.Wiles 16.04.02]”

So what of the OS feature? Is this a mistake – plain and simple – or is there indeed something there?

CADW scheduling (CM343) reckons:

“The monument comprises the remains of a burial cairn and an associated standing stone, both probably dating to the Bronze Age (c.2300 BC – 800 BC) and situated on the S-facing leading edge of a local summit on the SW-facing slopes of Mynydd Trawsnant. The grass-covered cairn, which probably utilises an outcropping bedrock knoll, is circular on plan and measures about 16m in diameter and up to 1.6m in height. An impressive quartz standing stone is situated about 45m to the NNW. It is a large block of stone, measuring 0.9m in height by 0.6m in width and 0.6m in thickness. Packing stones are clearly visible around its base.”

The salient feature for me – as always – however, is the magnificent vista towards the South Walian mountains, more than liberally crowned with Bronze Age cairns of their own. Oh and the wondrous vibe. This, truly, is a spot to just sit and watch for a few hours.... it would be a crime to rush, hence I deferred from a quick visit the previous late afternoon, kipped overnight above Llyn Brianne.. and spent the entire morning before a massive storm front none too subtly suggested I, ahem, move on.

Note the nearby quartzite stone which would appear to be associated with the great cairn. As CADW note, the obvious packing stones strongly suggest authenticity.

A pretty substantial ring cairn, this, with a well-preserved bank upon the southern arc and sweeping, extensive views to the apex of the South Walian uplands. A classic location, to be fair.

Coflein notes the following:

“Remains of a ring cairn on the SW-facing slopes of Mynydd Trawsnant, above Cerrig Cynnant. Circular on plan, measuring about 9m in diameter within a grass covered stony ring bank about 1.5m in thickness and up to 0.2m in height. The interior is level and largely stone free. [Source: Cadw scheduling description. F.Foster 05/04/2005]”

Although not in the same league as the other obscure stone circles in the extended locale of Llyn Brianne (Bryn y Gorlan, Crug Siarls) this is still well worth the not-inconsiderable effort of visiting, if only for the excellent vibe – the nearby pair of ring cairns make it a no-brainer, should you be able.

Located a little north of the southern ring cairn, beyond an earthen field boundary, copious industrial strength upland grass and other sundry vegetation currently obscure what remains – above ground, at least – of this stone ring. I couldn’t discern anything still upstanding in the northern arc...

Although Coflein, in this instance, has nothing to add, the site is Scheduled, the CADW report (CM225) noting:

“The monument comprises the remains of a stone circle, which probably dates to the Bronze Age (c. 2300 – 800 BC). The stone circle measures approximately 20m in diameter and consists of eight stones set in a semicircle, with two further stones to the north completing the circle. The northern half of the circle, with only these two stones remaining, is presumably ruined, as the stones are only c. 20cm in height, some in the northern sector could be buried beneath the turf.”

Assuming you’ve the correct OS coordinates to relate to (preferably) your 1:25K map – the 1:50k will probably do, at a push – correctly identifying the location of this pleasing trio of sites is clearly not an issue. Getting there, however, isn’t exactly straightforward: I eschewed the long approach via the great cairn of Garn Fawr (with its little associated quartzite stone) in favour of a low-level stroll above the Cynnant Fawr, followed by a steep scramble to the west. As it transpired, choosing the hottest day of 2023 wasn’t ideal for such exertion, but hey. Stupid is as stupid does.

If you’ve only a day to spare, probably best to choose the former option and check in at the former Youth Hostel of Bryn-poeth Uchaf for a chat in passing – a neighbour I met the following day related how the current owner is very friendly to us outsiders. As it was, I instead met the (presumed) owner of Cynnant Farm who, while remaining silent, gave me a wry smile I took to signify a tolerance of my parking arrangements at the entrance to the public track traversing the cwm.

Directions to Cairn de Petit Mont: Take the signed turn from the central roundabout in Arzon onto Rue de Lenn Vihan. Follow this road for c. 1.4 km to reach a car park for Cairn de Petit Mont. A path starts in the SW corner of the car park. Follow this path SW for 240m. Turn left and walk 50m to the entrance of the Cairn de Petit Mont.

At almost 50ft in diameter, this summit cairn is well worth a shufti when checking out the nearby Cerrig Cewri....

Coflein reckons the monument is:

“An apparently undisturbed cairn, 15m in diameter and 1.6m high, having an Os triangulation pillar set upon its summit. A standing stone, Carreg craig-y-moch, 2m by 0.6m by 0.5m, once stood c.550m SSW of the cairn, reported as erect in 1967, it was prostrate by 1968 and had been removed in afforestation by 1976. [J.Wiles 04.04.02]”

A pair of cairns located someway below – and to the south – of the 1,463ft summit of Garn Dwad... the southern of which is actually pretty substantial, bearing the clear remains of a cist. To be fair, the northern monument is quite upstanding, too, albeit with a grassy mantle rendering it far less conspicuous in the landscape; so much so, that I actually walked straight by upon arrival. As you do.

The location is excellent, with a sublime panorama of the South Walian uplands given great support by that of the Irfon nearer to hand. With a vibe to match. The easiest approach is probably that which I took, via the bridleway starting from the access track to Pen-y-Banc farm, looping around from the north.

Coflein reckons:

“The two cairns set below the summit of Carn Dwad are I – measuring 6.0m in diameter and 0.4m high; II – oval, measuring 11m by 9.0m and 0.5m high. Both cairns bear the signs of central mutilation and exhibit what may be the remains of cists.... [J.Wiles 04.04.02]”

The remains of this cairn, set upon the, it has to be said, somewhat inhospitable eastern slopes of Esgair Elan – itself forming the southern flank of the wondrous upper Cwm Ystwyth – have a good shout for being amongst the most obscure you might wish to find in these Isles. Yeah, having walked the ridge a number of times in the past – not to mention camping below on innumerable occasions – the monument doesn’t exactly advertise its presence, so to speak.

Luckily, the people at Coflein know where it’s at. Quite literally:

“A small stone cairn, thought likely to be a funerary cairn. It measures 2.5 metres north to south, by 2.25 metres wide and is no more than 0.2 metres high. It is partially obscured by grass and moss.” [P.Sambrook, Trysor, 13 September 2011]

Better late than never.