Latest Fieldnotes

This is a bit of a cheat really, as we didn’t actually make it to West Lanyon Quiot. We had been at Lanyon at the end of a loooong day (with “stone virgins” in tow, not quite as enthusiastic as we were when it comes to walking across even more fields to look at old stones!) and were about to head back to Perranporth when we decided it was worth just having a “quick look” for this site.

We left the others in the cars and head towards the field opposite from Lanyon (cross the road and head to the far corner where there is a farm gate). Stood on the gateway and tried to work out where it may be and the pull was just too strong, so over the gate and into the field. At the far end of the field were some pretty big stones, built into a wall, so we headed over and as we climbed up it, we spotted West Lanyon, about 3 fields away.

It looked lovely, the capstone fallen but still impressive. Unfortunately 2 of the fields had bullocks in them and the combination distance + bullocks + tired friends waiting in the cars = abandoned trip! Hopefully, I will be back down to Cornwall in the not-too-distant future and will get to see this site up close....

Our first site of the day and with a bunch of “stone virgins” in tow, it proved to be an amazing start to the day.

The landscape around here is just amazing and as you head up towards Chun Quiot, you pass burial mounds and are surrounded by a sense of history and scenery that is breathtakingly beautiful.

The walk up to the Quiot is (depending on weather) a fairly easy one, although we did hit a few boggy patches on route. If you park by the farm and walk straight up the hill, you will see footpaths cut through the gorse and should come across the site easily enough.

Once we spotted it, we started running towards it; Ros described it as “cute” and I have to admit that it really is! Never had the opportunity to describe a site as “cute” before and probably never will again!

From the Quiot I spotted what appeared to be a couple of stones, which we presumed must be linked to Chun Castle. Bit confused by Julian’s description in the book of this site being both Bronze AND Iron Age though!!!!!

Walked up to Chun Castle and was blown away by it. Had expected it to be little more than a few scattered stones but the circular foundation of the outer wall and banks are pretty clear to see and the 2 large stones which must’ve formed a gateway remain upright and proud. From here, the Quiot looked even more spectacular and as we headed back down for another look at the site, I felt as if the day couldn’t possibly get any better.

Not far from the edge of town, down below Berstane Farm follow the track that goes to the right, the direction of Inganess Bay. At the far corner of the grounds of Berstane House is a dovecot, a square masonry tower with a stepped back at the top. From here look diagonally acoss to the familiar shape of an eroded broch on the small headland at the bottom of a field. There are supposed to be other settlement remains in the vicinity but I’m not aware of having seen any.

Coming down to it I saw a big scoop in the centre of my field of view which I thought to be the broch interior with small stones around the edge revealed. But from the top of the mound I saw this to be a scoop excavated from the ege rather, for here I was definitely in the region of the interior. This broch is of a similar size and situation to Ingshowe but with fewer large stones exposed to view.

CANMORE said a section was exposed 10’ up the cliff face and I had seen on the left an easy way down to the beach. The masses of seaweed made further exploration dangerous and I would advise not going alone. Carefully I made my way around to the sandy area at the foot of the cliff supporting the broch. Here the upper part looks very similar to Ingshowe (right down to the stones pointing out at right-angles over the cliff) except that the base isn’t well delineated – probably owing to its being built upon well inclined strata.

From Berstane Farm a track does run straight down to the shore, but for the infrequent visitor this route is most problematical for the aforementioned reason.

Great name. Sounds like a Scots war cry.

Great site too. Fully developed Clyde cairn with well defined crescentic facade, one slipped capstone and truly megalithic chamber.

One facade stone has been “sanctified” with a Christian cross.

More details with the photo captions.

The bad news is that it’s in a clearing in a forest with no defined path in. Why do they do that? One fewer row of trees to create an access would hardly be missed surely.

Park at the forest road just S of Auchnaha cottage. Cross the road and head straight into the forest – it’s not too dense here. Shortly, there is a forest ride with telegraph poles. Turn right up the hill. The site is in the clearing to the left at the top of the hill.

Visited 31 March 2004

Buttern Hill Stone Circle – 1.4.2004

I knew absolutely nothing about this site before visiting. I just saw it on the map and decided to make it an extension to my visit to Shovel Down and Scorhill. If anyone knows of any ‘official’ name for it please tell me and I’ll change it.

Although Bodmin Moor is much smaller, it is often a much harder place to walk than Dartmoor. A shortish walk on Dartmoor seems relatively easy to me, except for the fog and the lack of obvious features to map read by. Dartmoor felt drier than the Cornish uplands and there are ‘paths’ everywhere in this section of Dartmoor. Not obvious or marked paths but just loads of small paths (livestock paths?) that mean you don’t have to yomp over uneven ground.

So, from Scorhill to Buttern Hill Stone Circle you basically just need to skirt round the south west side of Buttern Hill. When you see some watery ground at the bottom of the valley between Buttern Hill and Rippator, you’re getting close. But don’t go right down to this lowest point. Stay mid way up the gentle slope and continue for about 300 metres and the circle should be there. It is not easy to spot / see. If you see some stones in this area, check them out; they could be the circle. I counted 5 stones still standing, and 15 recumbant, ranging from large ones to tiny stones that seem to be inline with a circle.

It’s a sad circle and obviously overshadowed by Scorhill, which is easier to get to and more ‘beautiful’. But I have great sympathy for this circle. It’s the underdog and I guess it was once beautiful.

Mardon Down Stone Circle – 3.4.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.

I knew absolutely nothing about this. I just saw the area on the map and decided to make it a stop off point on my way home.

Once I found it (not knowing whether it would be an obvious stone circle, or one of those fallen ones covered in gorse!) I realised that it should be simple for others to find. Just walk along the top of the hill until you reach a small piece of wooden fencing with a sign on it that reads “To help conserve the archaeological site please follow the path to he left/right*. Thank you.” (* says left in one direction and right in the opposite). The stone circle is between these signs. I counted 17 obvious stones (most recumbent), and imagine that there will be others hidden in the gorse.

I believe that what Johan had previously added as the Giant’s Grave is actually the stone circle. The large stone that four of his pictures show is (in my humble opinion) actually just one stone in the circle (the largest). The OS map is a bit of a pain because it has the general phrase ‘Giant’s Grave’ on without actually definitely directing this to any of the ancient sites themselves. I would imagine that it either just generally means that the area has ancient graves on the top of a hill, or maybe refers to the two cairns at SX767874. I doubt it has anything to do with a long barrow. I hadn’t read Johan’s post before visiting the area.

Mardon Down Cairns – 3.4.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.

There are 4 cairns marked on the OS map. Two are apparently where the track kinks to the right half way between the stone circle and the cairn circle (SX767874). And two are supposed to be very close to the stone circle, one shown on the map as maybe 50 metres south of the stone circle, and one immediately north of the stone circle. Hmmm, well I didn’t look for the northern two because I wanted to see the cairn circle and then go.

But I did find what I thought was a kerbed cairn just a few metres south of the stone circle. However that doesn’t tally with the map. Curious.

Cleave Burial Chamber – 3.4.2004

I knew absolutely nothing about this. I just saw it on the map and decided to make it a stop off on my way to Mardon Down. If anyone knows of any ‘official’ name for it please tell me and I’ll change it.

I can’t really describe how to get here. You’ll most probably need an OS map to find it in the lanes, although actually it’s not far from the main A382 road.

The lane that leads past the field the little chamber is in is very narrow and it’s not easy to find anywhere to park. I found somewhere about a field away and just had a quick peak into the field. The chamber is tiny, and there are other stones around that take away what little presence it might have. It reminded me of the moment in Spinal Tap when a tiny model of a Stonehenge trilithon comes down onto the stage!

Three stones at Kames crossroads said to be part of a stone circle originally.

There are two to the NE – one 2.8m high. A third is by the War Memorial to the SW.

Visible from the road – from your car if you want.

Visited 31 March 2004

Nice view, shame about the site.

This is probably for chambered cairn completists only unless you enjoy puzzles – which is what this is.

First up, the site can claim neolithic connections since the butt of a broken polished stone axehead was found here in 1954.

So is it a Clyde cairn? Well it overlooks the Clyde but that’s about the best you can say about this jumble of stones.

The most prominent stone, 1.6m high, has been described as a portal stone. It is however triangular which is not normal for portal stones. They’re normally square or rectangular. That’s problem number one.

Problem number two is that the remaining stones lie in a scatter to the N of this supposed portal stone which would give the site a roughly S orientation. Clyde cairns lie in the N to SE range.

Better just to enjoy the view, I think.

Leave Cardross by Carman Road. Head up hill and park just after the cattle grid. Walk up onto the moor and SW towards the field wall. Eventually, the big pointy portal will come into view. After the wall, there’s a fence/gate to cross.

Visited 25 March 2004

Last site on a day which included the splendid Brainport Bay and Crarae. Ending with a whimper rather than a bang.

It’s a pity this is not better preserved as it’s one of the few Clyde cairns with two axial chambers.

This has inevitably produced comment about the influence of Irish dual court cairns on the site but, since a facade was found at only one one end (concave – at the NE chamber), that may be a comparison too far.

What is left to see are the side stones of the NE chamber and a portal and back stone from the SW chamber.

The immediately surrounding forest has been cleared which is a bonus.

Park at the forest road entrance. It’s a bit of a scramble up the mound on which the cairn sits.

Visited 24 March 2004

Mardon Down – 3.4.2004

I approached via Moretonhampstead but in the jumble of roads and junctions in the middle of the small town I couldn’t honestly give good directions to find the lane that leads up to the downs! I can say that it isn’t signposted at all and it might have been ‘School Lane’(?). I just felt the lane was the right one judging from the OS map. If you then go down and back up a dip, and pass Addiscott on your right you are on the right lane! I left the downs due south, onto the B3212 (which by the way is a really twisty and narrow B road for much of its length), which was really easy so this might be a better way.

This is all Access Land, so you can roam at will. There is a sort of ‘car park’ at SX762873. If you are coming onto the common from the south west, take the road to the right (marked ‘Exeter’) and it’s 200m up the road on the left. However, all it is is the only tarmaced area on the common. No facilities. In fact when I was there most of it was taken up with mounds of gravel. In reality people park all over the downs as most of the roads have clear spaces off of them at intervals (and they aren’t passing places).

There are loads of paths all over the downs. All seem pretty basic and liable to mud. Some might get overgrown in summer. Gorse almost everywhere. The car park is a relatively convenient place to park as there is a clear path up to the top. However this is a bit more of a climb (55m in height in a 500m walk) than from the south end.

The track that is marked on the OS map that goes across the top of the hill doesn’t really live up to it’s billing and exists only in places as a track wide enough for a 4x4. Some of the time it’s just like a footpath, and can be boggy. But it is a convenient way to help find the ancient sties on this hill.

At 356 metres above sea level there are not surprisingly brilliant views from the hill.

Mardon Down Cairn Circle – 3.4.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.

This is relatively easy to find because it is quite striking and because it’s next to the junction of two relatively clear paths up the hill, one from the east and one from the north. I imagine that with more undergrowth it could be slightly less obvious.

This is a beauty. I’m not very used to cairn circles (not many in Southern England) but I would imagine with could be a pretty fine example, with nine standing stones, plus several recumbent and/or out of place. Despite the drizzle and mist the views were still spectacular.

Brown Willy Settlement – 28.3.2004

For directions to the general area, see the record for the Brown Willy Cairns.

In a field on the south east edge of the slopes of Brown Willy there is what I assume is a Bronze Age settlement. I know nothing about this site – just what I saw on the OS map – and haven’t seen it mentioned in any of my books. Given that the area is littered with a variety of settlements, I imagine this is pretty much the same as others. Despite the moorland undergrowth several roundhouse are quite clearly visible and worth a quick visit if you have any energy left at this point.

Brown Willy Cairns – 28.3.2004

For directions as far as Catshole Downs, see the main Catshole Downs page, and the Tolborough Downs page.

Well, if you’ve got as far as Catshole and still want some hard walking you might as well bag the highest point in Cornwall, Brown Willy.

And from the east side of the fence on Catshole Downs it is pretty easy to get to, if a hard slog. Carry on North, close to the fence / old field wall. Cross into the next field. After 1½ kms a rocky outcrop will be visible on your right. Continue by the fence for 100m and a stile lets you into the field on the east side of Brown Willy. A recognisable (but unmarked) path takes you across the field and straight up Brown Willy to its highest point. This ‘path’ is just a boggy lumpy track but it is obvious that people / livestock have used it, and its direction straight to the northern cairn on Brown Willy is useful. It’s a very steep climb to the top (only about a 75m rise but all steep!). As I made the last step onto the plateau at the top I surprised several sheep that dashed past me. I bet they weren’t as knackered as I was!

Even on an intermittently dull and drizzling day like this the views are not surprisingly amazing, across Rough Tor to the north west and Colliford Lake several kilometres south east.

The south cairn on Brown Willy aligns with the west cairn on Catshole Tor, the Tolborough Tor Cairn, and the the Catshole Long Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Note – this is very much the unofficial and (probably) much harder route to Brown Willy. I did it this way so I could get Tolborough, Catshole and Brown Willy all in one long walk. The real ‘permissive’ route seems to be the path on the map that enters Brown Willy from the north, from the Fernacre track (circa SX148797)

Catshole Downs – 28.3.2004

For one way to get to the general area, see the Tolborough Downs page.

To get towards the Catshole Downs Long Cairn and the eastern Catshole Tor cairn, from Tolborough Tor head north to the gate in the angled bit of the field (circa SX171782). This leads you out towards these sites.

The Catshole Tor settlement and western Catshole Tor cairn are in the opposite field. From Tolborough Tor head for another gate, just to the west of the angled bit of the field. These gates are very close to each other. This leads you out towards these sites. Note that these four sites are in two separate fields with a fence in between.

Technically most land on Bodmin Moor is ‘private’ as it is owned by someone, even Downs and Common land. But in reality places like the Tolborough Downs are rarely visited by anyone or anything and as long as you use the normal common sense country code I don’t imagine anyone challenging you (don’t quote me though as some sort of magic access key!).

Catshole Tor Settlement – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.

I know nothing about this site – just what I saw on the OS map – and haven’t seen it mentioned in any of my books. Given that the area is littered with a variety of settlements, I imagine this is pretty much the same as others. I walked through the area on the map but couldn’t see anything obvious. The ground in this field is very uneven and hard work and by now I was too knackered to look too hard!

Catshole Tor Cairns – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.

The OS map shows two cairns on Catshole Tor, one on the east side (SX172786 – which I didn’t find), and one on the west side (SX170785). Note that they are in two separate fields with a fence in between. The western one is basically flattened but you can make out the circular shape and probably flanking stones. Ironically the clitter of stones around the area are more ‘obvious’ and larger than the actual cairn.

The west cairn on Catshole Tor aligns with the south cairn on Brown Willy, the Tolborough Tor Cairn, and the Catshole Long Cairn although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Catshole Downs Long Cairn – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.

This long trip is worth it for this alone. A huge rarity and relatively easy to find (once you get to the general area), especially if you’ve previously seen a picture of it. You can also spot it from Tolborough Tor.

From Tolborough Tor head for the gate in the angled bit of the field (circa SX171782). Note -the downs were pretty swampy in places when I visited (& more swampy than other upland areas in Devon & Cornwall). The Long Cairn is then 100m away just to the right of the old field wall.

What does a Long Cairn look like? Imagine a small long barrow, made of stones instead of earth, in a triangular shape, typically 17 to 30 m long sometimes with traces of internal structure. At Catshole you can see the large-ish front stone, and from there you can make out what might have been flanking stones, and a small litter of stones in the interior. They are of the fourth millennia BC.

Peter Herring and Peter Rose, in ‘Bodmin Moor’s Archaeological Heritage’ (Cornwall County Council – 2001), map three long cairns on the moor, with three other possibilities. They suggest that the Catshole long cairn is carefully aligned to the east part of Catshole Tor. What I can add is that the cairn in general does align with the west cairn on Catshole Tor, the south cairn on Brown Willy, and the Tolborough Tor Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Tolborough Tor Stone Row – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Tolborough Downs page.

Cheryl Straffon’s guide ‘The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)’ (Meyn Mamvro – 1993, amended 2000) says “On the top of the Tor is a large cairn, to the South East of which is an unusual miniature row of five small stones – SX17567786”. Well, yes, but I should add that it is VERY small and overgrown and that is hardly decipherable. It is also very close to cairn (the final, furthest stone is barely 8m from the cairn) so don’t go wandering off looking for it many metres away. This final stone is also now broken.

Tolborough Downs – 28.3.2004

There is probably no easy way to reach the barren Tolborough Tor, on the Tolborough Downs. However, one decent way is to start near Bolventor. Cheryl Straffon’s guide ‘The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)’ (Meyn Mamvro – 1993, amended 2000) says “A pathway behind Jamaica Inn crosses the bypass up to Tolborough Downs”. Umm, well, I doubt the first bit, unless she means the underpass to the East of Bolventor. There is no obvious route across the dangerous A30 otherwise.

I found a good place to park and start from, at SX182769, just a few metres from the footpath that leads to Tolborough Downs. If heading towards Launceston on the A30 take the turn off for Bolventor but then take a sharp left turn (signposted ‘Bolventor Church’) and another immediate sharp left (signposted the same). This dead end lane takes you parallel and above the north side of the A30. The footpath is clearly marked about 300m along this road. If you are driving towards Bodmin the principle is the same. Get off at the Bolventor turnoff but don’t go into Bolventor itself. Instead imagine you were trying to get on the A30 towards Launceston, and you will see the Bolventor Church signpost on the bend just before the A30 starts again.

This footpath takes you down a few fields (cows grazing) and across a stream to a few houses at Dairywell Hill. Keep to the right of the houses, through a farm looking gate and head up the very steep and rocky track. Carry on until you finally come out into the bottom of the field where Tolborough Tor lies. If you wanted a slightly less hilly/stony walk you might be able to approach (on foot) along the lane from the main road (at SX191777) towards Tober Barton Farm. Don’t know where you would be able to park on the main road though.

The Tor field was very rocky and very wet.

Tolborough Tor Cairn – 28.3.2004

For directions etc, see the main Tolborough Downs page.

This large cairn sits on top of the hill and is visible all around; a bump of green on the otherwise light brown hill.

The cairn aligns with the south cairn on Brown Willy, the west cairn on Catshole Tor, and the Catshole Long Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from this cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.

Council Barrow – 28.3.2004

If driving North on the A30 technically you can come off the A30 at SX100703 (just past the cow ‘traffic lights’), and the barrow is directly on your right. In reality this is one of those amazing Cornish dual carriageway turnoffs that give you very little chance to slow down. Making that turn at this tiny junction would be almost impossible unless you knew exactly where the turn was and you had no traffic behind you. The junction before this one is a bit better (circa SX092693).

So, otherwise you can come via the scrubby looking land from the west, either from the country lanes to the north west, or from Bodmin. From Bodmin take the Old Callywith Rd but instead of getting onto the A30 slip road (circa SX084679) take the road signposted ‘Helland’; and drive almost parallel to the A30 until you bear left and over two cattle grids. At the next junction take a right. At the end of this lane the Council barrow sits just off the A30 ‘junction’ in a sad little layby. What an absolute mess! Tyre tracks circle the barrow and also go straight up and over the top! Abandoned farm machinery also spoils it and I guess the farm gate on the North side also doesn’t help. Litter and fly tipping is also all around. When I get my picture back I’ll send a copy of it to the Cornwall Archaeological Unit. This may not be the most important ancient site in Cornwall but nothing deserves to be treated like this!

I was so shocked at this pitiful site and forgot to think how big it is. I’d guess about 15m in diameter and 2m high.

Castle Canyke Hill Fort – 28.3.2004

This ‘hill fort’ is best reached by a minor road that connects the A38 on the North side with ‘Castle Canyke Rd’ on the south side. Halfway along this lane there is a small place to park one car next to a gate with a boulder beside it.

As this is now under a Countryside Stewardship Scheme there is access, via a kissing gate into the north west section of the hill fort. There were obvious signs of cattle being grazed here. The ground is gently sloping and was pretty firm (not generally boggy), so it might be something a person with mobility problems could still visit, if they can negotiate the kissing gate.

The modern farm building at the crown of the hill acts like a hub of a wheel with the hill fort effectively being divided into four quarters by field walls/hedges.

The best preserved section is the south west section with quite a large bank and a small ditch. The north west section (near where you come in) has quite a substantial ditch but no obvious bank.

So, not much to see really, but still a nice position (with good views all around) and fortunately under good management and suffering very little from potential harm from the nearby A38 and A30.

Higher Longbeak Barrow – 29.3.2004

Although there is a small layby close to the barrow at Higher Longbeak, it’s on the brow of the hill and might be a bit difficult to get out of. It’s more sensible to park at the free car park right next to the barrow at Lower Longbeak, just north of Widemouth Bay.

This barrow lies on the edge of the Higher Longbeak headland, 700 m further up the coastal path from the first barrow. The walk between the two is pleasant but undulating, and the path is ragged in places, so it might not be suitable for some people with limited mobility.

The barrow is probably the ‘lump’ covered in thick black undergrowth to the west of the path, but it could possibly be the gorse covered lump to the east of the path. It’s not clear to me.