It’s a truly smart place Blakey Topping...its conical shape when viewed from the SE similar to High Wheeldon in the Peak District.
The stone circle/alignment, although a bit worse for wear, is worth the short walk (unless Fitz’s navigating) from the Hole of Horcum. Blakey Topping makes it a must
Do yourself a favour, if you ever come out with me, bring a map, bring a compass, bring a gps, bring directions.
I am THE BAD (bad meaning bad) Navigator!
I met up with the Mighty Stubob today to walk the Old Wife’s Way and check out the stones at the foot of Blakey Topping. Hey, it’s my country so I took the lead. I led him through fields, over fences, through bracken and guess what? all we had to do was, find the big hill & cross a field, simple eh?
I was ashamed.
That said.
This is a messed up, beautiful site. How it came to be interpreted as a circle beats me, but the stones are lovely and the setting is magnificent.
Groove on the ginger topping.
Visited 3rd week September 2004. Spent a long time chatting with the ‘officious-looking’ woman ... in fact she is a relation of the original discoverer, and has very much comitted herself to the future of the site. (Recalls several visits to the Rollright Stones, also privately managed, and with a refressing lack of state care paraphenalia).
Had a good 20 minutes with a borrowed torch scouring the walls for graffiti or signs of stoneworking. There are some pecks along some of the steps, indicating they were purposfully shaped or split, and the bottom step seems to have a deliberately chosed ripple-marked slab. Didn’t find a single scratch or significant step wear, almost as if the site had hardly been used.
The upper steps have toe-spaces, and are more like a stone step-ladder. The base of the chamber is a huge flat slab (bedrock?), but which perhapse could be inspected by careful excavation down one side, as it looks impossible to lift being a supporting structure for the walling.
The site is certainly un-burial chamber like, more a sort of souterrain? It has a feeling of industrial purposfulness – one would have expected more precisely-placed stonework if it were a tomb.
The 2005 excavations should provide more fascinating information.
I have provisionally posted this as a carved stone although the last time it was really looked at, in the 1920s, the general concensus was that the marks were natural. However I have not seen marks in Sarsen that look quite like these. People with more experience of rock art than I may have other opinions.
If the marks are truly man-made they are rare in this part of the country.
The picture quality is explained in the caption.
Access
Park on verge at T junction, cross road to field gate and the stone is in the hollow to your right about 50M away. Tussocky grass.
(The hollow in which it lies is one of the quarry pits used by the Romans to construct the Chute Causeway, a diversion on the Winchester-Cirencester road to avoid the steep valley to the North)
This lovely big stone lies beside the Traverse Moor Road and is difficult to miss.
This site is on a track running from Wheeldale Road to Wheeldale Beck. It is marked on the OS map as Cists.
I was only able to find one almost definite cist-like structure but there are a number of other possibles. The cist is beside the Roman road.
From the cist there are views across the Wheeldale Beck to Hunt House Crag, Simon Howe and the Two Howes.
I’ve been intrigued by this site for a while and have had no luck on trying to find details of these cists. My only reference is that they are marked on the OS 1:25000 map.
I intially presumed they are of Roman origin given their location bedside the Wheeldale Roman road. I’m now not so sure. The cists occur on the junction of an east-west track with the north south Roman road. For quite a while now I have been developing the idea that many Roman roads may overlie existing ancient routes.
The east west track seems to run from Danby High Moor to the coast taking in many monuments including Shunner Howe, Blue Man I’ The Moss (the largest monolith on the NYM), Hunt House (possible stone circle),Simon Howe, Lilla Howe, Brow Moor & the coast.
These two are in an excellent spot, overlooking the Whin Sill at Caw Gap, where it’s possible to get through the crags. It would presumably have been a mian route from north to south in the times before the Wall was built. Good views downover to the Maiden Way.
There are supposed to be underground socket holes, but the site hasn’t been excavated. The immediate area is festooned with nettle patches which could be the signs of these holes. It would have been a small circle, the two stones are 4.5m apart, and look like they would have been on opposite sides of the circle, as they face each other.
There are many small cobbles, which could be anything or nothing, and the third stone, which was standing in the 18thC, is lying a few yards away.
The area has been well and truly trashed throughout the centuries, it’s lucky that these two still stand. Not suitable for those with mobility issues, due to fences, and highly uneven marshy ground, even though it’s close to the road.
Sadly, the burial mound in the nearby field is now gone, only a cropmark remains.
Look closely at the stones and you will see how much quartz they are composed of.
Similar rock is found round the south of the island. Around 65 million years ago volcanic eruptions around Arran forced molten lava through fissures in the sandstone. The extreme heat metamorphosed the sandstone, baking it white and producing a quartzite rock.
It makes the stones sparkle really beautifully through the moss.
We liked it here, the missus and me...
Hob brought us up here one sunny(ish) afternoon. Last Friday in fact! Seems like ages ago!
A short walk through the golfcourse in Wooler stand several of these magnificent stones, carved with magical motifs. This particular one being within the ramparts of the hillfort.
Dripping water into the shapes and letting it run naturally into the grooves (giving it a gentle rub to spread it to the edges) really highlights the shapes.
The sun came out at just the right moment to take a few pics of the “ring of fire”... the water looked like molten metal for a couple fo minutes – fab!
We were happy here... I forgot for a while that I was on a golf course – wonder how many of these golfers know what they’re walking among? Better than whacking a ball with a stick, I reckon!
I’m a little bit out on a limb in designating this place as an ancient mine/quarry (Emphasis on the ‘quarry’, as there don’t seem to be any pits). It’s never been excavated, and was listed as a IA settlement, it’s marked on the OS as a field system.
But on the ground, there is a very visible seam of what I think is metal ore. Soft, shaley stuff with a greenish cast, and many greenish tinged pebbles in the stream. There are very visible remains of structures, in the form of rings and rows of pink granite boulders, The building(?) remains are right next to the stream, and surrounding it are what could well be earthwork banks, protecting the area with the shaley strata.
If these observations are considered in conjunction with the field system, I reckon there’s a case to be made for this having been a mine in prehistory. And I’m sticking with that until I hear otherwise.
The fact that there’s a strange saline well with alleged medicinal properties just adds to the texture of the place. The whopping great Victorian Hotel, complete with attendant octagenarian techo-accordian player, I’m not so sure of. The presence of the hotel has resulted in the covering of the well, which is a bit shan.
The moorland nearby is spooky in the dark, with distant glows of modern pink granite quarries, buzzing overhead cables, faint sounds of the M6 drift in and out of earshot as you move over the ground. Especially if you are lucky enough to catch a blood-red full moon rising over the horizon. I could have done without the midgies though.
Another ‘portable’ from Beckensall’s Northumbria book, this stone is anything but portable. It’s a boulder measuring approx 1.3 x 0.8 x 0.6m, and can just be tipped over by two blokes.
And tip it over is what you have to do, if you want to see the cups and rings. As the stone has been wisely left upside down to protect it from the ravages of the chavas who inhabit this little patch of trees, doing the things chavas do (few of which are generally compatible with the preservation of ancient rock art).
Bearing in mind that this piece has been moved at least twice, once into the vallum of hadrian’s wall, then from the vallum to it’s present position, I can’t help but think it might be better in the museum of antiquities, like so many of it’s kin. I say this even though I am normally loathe to think of museums as the best place for rock art, it should be allowed to roam free!
It was placed back upside down with the utmost care, and is now fairly indistinguishable from the many other rocks in the vicinity. I think anyone would actually have to be pretty stupid/determined to go to the bother of turning it over, the motifs aren’t even anything particularly special, though the fact they’re in Tyne and Wear, is.
If anyone should wish to have a deeks at this bit of obscure rock art, drop me a line.
NB: A subsequent visit has shown fire damage, in the form of splitting, on unmarked stones only a few yards away. Local piss-heads burning tyres it would seem.
The comments below regarding the earthworks made me wonder. The only defensive purpose they could have had would be to protect the decorated outcrop with the rock art. But then this makes little sense when you bear in mind that someone coming down the hill from the east could still just walk right in. So maybe, control of access from the Till valley (highly ritualised neolithic landscape that it is) was the issue. If so, when were they built? Surely not by those who carved the panels? If the earthworks are say, Iron age, then it sort of hints that the big old dome of carved rock had some pretty special significance for a long time after it was carved.
Reminded me of the Pipers Chair down at the other end of the county, which also has a strange rock feature, with artificial carving, and a seemingly out of place set of earthworks.
I’m not even going to try and decribe the cups and rings. Words will not do justice. There just aren’t enough superlatives. Do visit, and find the opening in the fence, rather than scrambling about in the bracken like we did. I don’t think a wheelchair could get here, I recall a kissing gate, but it’s only a few yards from the road so it is quite accessible, as rock art in Northumberland goes.
Noticed last week, that the Shepherd’s Cottage, just below the fort and decorated outcrops, is for sale. Bearing in mind that it has no vehicle access, there’s a chance that it will be let out as a holiday place, and would make such a perfect setting for a tour of North Northumberland.
It looks a bit odd seeing a ‘For Sale’ sign on an IA hillfort. It really does look as if someone is flogging the fort, but it’s not included in the deal, nor is the rock art.
Micheal moreys hump is a bronze age barrow commanding stunning views of the east end of the island. It has contained bodies from the bronze age and also secondary burials of anglo-saxon origin. The mound was excavated in the early 19th century when the Turnpike Commision disturbed the mound whilst carrying out road improvements. A local antiquary recorded the excavation in which seven skeletons were unearthed along with an iron knife. These remains belong to both the bronze age and anglo-saxon period. The builders also removed the stone gibbet socket at this time.
An adjacent but less obvious barrow was scientifically excavated in 1956, which revealed important early bronze age burials and wooden structures.
The Manifold Valley (River Manifold = river of many folds/bends) is a long steep sided limestone valley. It begins kinda near Ecton and winds and gouges its way southwards several miles through the hills of Wetton continuing on a few miles farther before meeting up with the River Dove. Close to St. Bertrams Cave at Beeston Tor the River Hamps joins the Manifold.
There’s roadside parking at Wetton Mill, SK095 561, near to the Nan Tor Caves it’s then just a case of working your way southwards with the map references for the caves, most have a vague sorta path leading up to them.
For St Bertrams Cave, park at SK100 543, unless you wanna make a longer walk of it and continue south from Thor’s Cave to Beeston Tor Farm.
An excellent place to spend the day.....it’s sorta Creswell Crags on steroids....and even better some of the caves aren’t gated.
If you time it right during a good dry spell the River Manifold may or may not be visible.....it disappears into a large swallet by Wetton Mill or the Darfar Bridge and re-emerges a mile or so further down stream.
This fissure cave is below the West Window in Thor’s Cave, SK0985 5496.
There’s no real easy way to get round to it, I ain’t got a real head for heights so dropping down out of the ‘Window’ was a bit of a no-no. Then again going round the back of the hill and scrambling down on the wet grass and rock was a real pant-filling experience.
I also ain’t mastered using a camera with my teeth just yet, so no pics.
There could be an easy way round there... but I’m not looking for it. The fissure was in use from the Upper Palaeolithic right through to the Roman.
Seven Way’s is a bit of an odd one, SK0982 5490. Today’s entrance to the cave looks to be contained in chamber with collapsed roof, the outer rim of this ‘chamber’ can still be seen. On the northern section of the rim are 3 low arches in the rock, possibly entrances to the cave at some point.
Bit of a low dirty squeeze into the actual cave.
Quite close to the Elderbush Cave, although nearer to the crag’s edge.
Elderbush Cave is located on the SW of Thor’s Crag; follow the path around from Thor’s Cave to the back of the hill and look for a lone Elder Bush, SK0978 5488. The caves entrance is just below and to the side of this bush. A large round entrance leads into a single chamber, a narrow squeeze leads down from the floor to lower chambers, but you’ll need a bit of caving experience to get down into them.
It’s a nice enough place and nearly at the very top of the crag. Some steaming views over Ladyside.
Old Hannah’s Hole is located up a short overgrown ‘valley’ on the eastern side of the Manifold Valley, half a mile south of Wetton Mill, the Hole is at SK1002 5575.
Sited about a third of the way up the grassy slope to the left, trees and brambles block the way forward so you’ll know when it’s time to head up the slope.
Old Hannah’s Hole has the appearance of a fissure cave; quite high and narrow, easy enough to enter and perhaps 10m long.
Having finally found a plan of the Broch of Lingro it is obvious that the line of stones outwith the present drystane wall falls within its compass, you can see where the broch structures respect the cliff edge here. Obviously these ‘lines’ precede the wall but what is their relationship with the broch itself, both spatially and temporally? I think it probably went all the way to the Scapa Distillery outlet as there is at least one more such stone along the path closer to there. Perhaps some of the burnside walls relate to it?
Nan Tor is perched above Wetton Mill Farm and the tearooms next door in the upper Manifold Valley. Shortest way up to the Tor is by heading down the track to Dale Farm, then keep looking to the right for a narrow scrubby path that heads steeply up through the trees and to the caves.
Although the Tor has two large south facing entrances, it is in fact
like a swiss cheese, tunnels everywhere. And while there’s nothing tricky about them, some of them can come out on high-ish vertical rock faces, so it’s best to be careful.
One of the caves has an open air chamber, where some of the roof looks to have collapsed.
Strange place. Great views down the valley to Thor’s Cave.
Wow. What an amazing place this island is! Very barren... very windy!
Walking down the “main road” (said with a wry smile!) from the lighthouse to the bird observatory, we came across this tall fellow...
In a field near the observatory, unmissable due to the lack of much else! There is an electric fence around the drystone wall here, which suggests the owner would rather people didn’t go into the field... I’m sure it’s passable, but out of politeness, and respect for the cows, we stayed outside the perimeter.
But it’s a bit of a beauty! Very tall, broad yet somehow slender, with a wee hole in it about three-quarters of the way up.
I’ve heard that the stone is still in use today – at New Year, the islanders gather round it and sing songs! Fantastic!
According to Orkneyjar (orkneyjar.com/history/monoliths/stanstane.htm) it could well be an outlier to a long-gone stone circle... It’s certainly in a good location, and I was surprised there weren’t more standing stones on the island...
Dress for rain! And wind!
N.B. The wall and style are surrounded by a low voltage electric fence, which I am led to believe means the landowner would prefer you not to enter the field. Which stands to reason. Use your discretion.
If your a lover of Hares, this is the spot to visit. I disturbed two of them today, I’m normally lucky to see one a week.
The barrow lies beside the bridleway across Newton Mulgrave Moor. What’s remarkable about it is that the top of the barrow is level and shows no sign of distubance, although the SMR states that it has been dug. There’s also the hint of a ditch, it’s a lovely spot and well worth a coat of looking at if your on your way to the Long Barrow.
The Old Wife’s Stones Road runs across the Rigg from Ainthorpe to Fryup Dale. The modern footpath follows the route but has been moved to avoid damaging some of the monuments on the rigg. The original sunken trackway can still be seen running alongside the ring cairn containing the large standing stone. The route of this trackway and another trackway,Church Way which runs from Danby Church to Fryup, is marked by tall standing stones that are thought to be no earlier in date than medieval.
I visited the 3 cists marked on the posted map. You can find flint microliths etc here. I found evidence of flint knapping easily. Worth a look, all around the mounds which are easily found. All 3 mounds have been dug into in the past. This is obvious when you look at them. Access is easy as footpath goes right past them. It is possible that there were more mounds than the 3 there now.
