Latest Fieldnotes

Loher Stone Fort lies well situated on the foothills of Beenarourke and Farraniaragh Mountain beneath the Ring of Kerry scenic coastal road midway between Caherdaniel and Waterville. Although you can already spot the fort from the layby where Coomakista Pass reach its highest point and the passing N70, you have to drive on until you come to a very sharp turn-off on the left side. Follow this road, that runs parallel to the N70 to the south, until you reach the stone fort.

There is a lintelled entrance to the fort, much of the interior is taken up with the remains of two houses. Beneath the floor of the (older) circular house is a now closed souterrain. There is also a covered drain, that leads from the doorway of the rectangular house towards the entrance. The drystone enclosing wall is around 3m high, on the inner face there a steps that leads to the top level of the well-built wall.

The scenic views from the stone fort across Ballinskelligs Bay are simply overwhelming and, together with the good farmland, pretty sure were one of the reasons to built this defended farmstead, here.

I wonder how many tourists pass by on the Ring of Kerry without even knowing that such a beaty spot lies close by. Most guide books make no mention of it, which is a shame, as it is really a fine stone fort, that ranks only a little (if at all) behind the well-known Staigue Fort.

Visited May 2008

One of the most visually impressive of Dartmoor’s unique stone-row complexes, both because of the size of the end stones and also because, being set down in the Plym valley, the entire complex can be viewed in its entirety.

The ritual hypothesis would seem to be supported by its proximity to the river and also the nearby dwelling sites. Dartmoor’s well preserved complexes such as this and Merrivale are, to me, among the most thought provoking and enigmatic prehistoric monuments in the UK.

The A4061 climbing out of The Rhondda Valley passes above a dark and mysterious lake, cradled beneath the – more often than not – glowering escarpment of Craig-y-Llyn rising to not far short of 2000ft.

Fisherman are now usually seen lining its shoreline, but this lake once held a far greater significance to locals than merely a good spot to spend an afternoon away from the wife and kids.....for it was in its murky depths that the famous Llyn Fawr hoard was discovered between 1911 and 1913 during the construction of a reservoir.

These objects, clearly votive offerings – unless you accept that they were put in here for ‘safe keeping’ (Doh!), or, er....sort of ‘lost’ – date from the late Bronze and early Iron Ages, a Hallstatt sword in particular being tentatively dated to c650 BCE, which would make it the earliest iron object discovered to date in South Wales. Probably all of Wales, as it happens.

One wonders how many of the tradesmen and weekend punters who park to have their sandwiches overlooking Llyn Fawr have any idea of what once took place below them? I’d recommend a walk along the escarpment edge of Craig-y-Llyn to gaze down into the waters and contemplate if this is where Malory etc got the idea for Excalibur and the ‘lady in the lake’.

There’s even another little lake – Llyn Fach (of course) around the corner........

Canmore say this site is covered in furze, bushes and jabby things. They should also put in a warning for invisible rabbit holes, this place is an ankle breaker but not today. It’s impossible to make anything out on the hill itself because of the vegetation. If there is a kerb cairn I couldn’t find it although there are some rocky outcrops.

To get here leave the A96, north of Inverurie, at Pitcaple and make for the village of Durno. Take the first left as the village is entered. Ask permission at East Law farm to park. The occupants are friendly people and climbed the hill, as well, which is directly behind their farm.

Visited 5/07/09.

Can there be a more striking example of how society can completely balls up its heritage than the comparison between this wonderful structure and Land’s End – complete with ghastly ‘theme park’ – across the water?

Land’s End should be a wild, inspiring place chock-a-block with myths and folk tales. It is not.

Carn Gluze, surrounded by the smoke stacks and debris of past industry and just outside a town should – by all rights – be a ‘quick look around’ jobbie.

It is not. Not by a long chalk........

Bit embarrassing, this. Running very late, I kip overnight in the parking area past Cockmoor Hall – before the road descends to Troutsdale, that is.

Waking next morning bright and early, not that I had any choice due to somewhat boisterous local cows, notice there are substantial earthworks in the vicinity [the Scamridge/Six Dikes complex] and connect the adjacent mounds to these.

Wander over, eating my Coco Pops, and the penny suddenly drops. Doh! A number of quite substantial round barrows – no wonder I was out like a light last night. Good vibrations.

Well worth dropping in for a look if you’re passing..... not to mention the dikes.

Turn towards Insch from the A96 using the B992 taking the first left up a hill past Little Lediken. Stop when a clump of trees can be seen to the left about 1/2 mile. The cairn, which is almost 10 meters wide, is amongst the trees. It has been well robbed and is now turf covered. Most of the contents are probably in the dry stane dyke which partially surrounds the site. Once again excellent all round views including Bennachie, Tap O Noth and Dunnydeer.

From the B992 to this point the road is tarred leaving a short 50 meter walk to the site. Only a couple of fences to climb. At South Lediken the road reverts to track so I turned and went back the way I had come. People driving tractors waved as I parked so I don’t think they are to bothered about visitors.

Visited 4/07/09.

Visited with the Mam C after atrocious conditions put paid to any thoughts of climbing Cribyn that day...

Cadair Fawr crowns a vast, billowing area of upland moorland crossed by the A4059 from Hirwaun to Brecon. Now I’d long been intrigued by the numerous cairns marked on the map to the south of Waun Tincer, but, you know how it is? Always find somewhere else to go rather than tramp over bog in the rain.

Therefore a quick climb up Cadair Fawr to see what we could spot seemed a good idea and – sure enough – there were cairns [both of the field clearance and burial type] and hut circles a’plenty in the vicinity – particularly to the south of the summit.

Didn’t get to Waun Tincer, since we enjoyed the walk here too much, and no pictures since the camera was languishing back in the car. Hopefully there’ll be another chance.

In the interim check out the link...

After my wonderful visit to the Orkneys last week I visited the Shetlands and Jarlshof. It is similar though much bigger than Skara Brae and visitors are able to wander around freely. Also by the sea, the neolithic bit is now thought to be 7000 years old. Our guide, who was local, produced some oyster shells which had been found in the sandbanks along the shoreline – he told us oysters are not found in those waters so must they have been brought there by the neolthic settlers; these shells had been examined by photo luminescence which dates the last time daylight fell on minerals and were found to be 7000 years old.

Jarlshof reflects a settlement dating back to the Neolithic. In the earliest part of the village a Bronze-Age smithy can be seen.

There was a large Iron-Age roundhouse in the courtyard of the broch which was built about 2000 years ago.

Other additions to the village include a wheelhouse which was occupied until the Norsemen arrived plus the remains of stone buildings right up to the 17th century with the ruins of the laird’s house.

It is a wonderful and remote place not far from the stunning Sumborgh Head where I saw puffins close up for the first time in my life.

(I did take lots of photos but had difficulty posting them, will have another try when I get time)

I visited Caithness, the Orkneys and the Shetlands last week. It was a tiring journey to the north of Scotland, made by coach over two days (a night in Stirling) but so very worth the effort. The highlight for me was without question the Ring Of Brodgar on the Orkneys; just now I did a search for it on TMA and found that other people felt the same way.

The light was the sort I have never experienced before; a crystal clear midsummer day and the whole island looked the brightest green-blue. I was out around Avebury today and struck by the fact that it has its own unique flora, wild grasses etc, today the scent of camomile was in the air. At the Ring of Brodgar it was heather – I was not prepared for the elation I experienced when walking up to the site, I did not want to leave. Sadly I had to, as was travelling with a group of people and at 11.00pm that night we boarded an overnight ferry to the Shetlands.

I am determined to go back and stay for at least a week – we also visited Scara Brae but it was the Ring of Brodgar, Stenness and Maes Howe that blew me away – astonishingly they mirror Avebury is many ways. Brodgar has the blue sea/loch; today, Avebury had a green sea of wild grasses and ripening barley/wheat fields.

I did not get to go inside Maes Howe this time as you have book in advance with Historic Scotland and they do not allow large groups in – so that will be a must when I go back (next year maybe). I noticed that buses run to these sites which is very helpful for people like myself who don’t run a car.

On his superb website https://www.megalithomania.com/, Tom FourWinds describes this bullaun stone as “the mother of all bullaun stones”. And this is absolutely true, as this bullaun is really massive and impressive. It is located near Bonane Heritage Park, drive southeast, than east towards Garranes and Priests Leap from here until you reach Drom-Fiachna cemetery on the left hand side. The stone is located north of the road, between the cemetery and the road.

The stone itself is a flat-topped rock, about two meteres square and embedded in the ground at one side, which reinforce the impression of a small shoulder of rock. All in all I counted eight bullauns with seven turn-stones and in the centre lies a flat, disc-type stone, which is broken into two pieces. The hole of this stone holds a tall phallic stone. Maybe someone broke this stone, while putting some coins under it, as there are many placed underneath it.

Visited May 2009

Take the Banff road, the A97, from Huntly and after 1/2 mile turn of towards Brideswell. Climb the hill stopping at the top when Newtongarry Wood has been reached. If using a car there is plenty room to pull in on the north side. This is the same side as the barrow.

Walk up the middle of the sparse wood, climbing two fences until a clearing is reached. The barrow is in front being almost 52 meters in length. Its builders had an eye for scenery as this is a beautiful resting place. Turf covers the barrow now.

A further 30 meters along the hilltop there is another smaller round cairn also turf covered. Some of it has been destroyed by animals which makes a change to humans.

A walk of about 1 mile. A wonderful calm place.

Visited 2/07/09.

While driving on the Ring of Beara during my Ireland trip 2008, I came across this nice wedge tomb. Although I pre-plan my trips pretty carefully, I didn’t stumble across this tomb on any of the relevant megalithic websites, which is wondrous, because it is so easy to access. On the other hand, such unexpected lucky strikes can make you very happy or gives you a great pleasure ;-). It lies well-signposted on the R575/R572 junction where the R572 continues to Dursey Cable Car, just before Bealbarnish Gap.

The tomb lies in a field which opens to the sea in the south. Two sidestones and a single roofstone form a small (ruined) chamber, while two large slabs rest against the back of the tomb.

Note that archaeology.ie list this tomb as KILLOUGH EAST (SMR Number CO127-003----), however the signpost clearly names it KILLOUGH WEST. As the tomb is also located in the western part of this townland, I think this is the correct name.

Visited May 2008

This circle lies in a tributary valley of Shehy Mountains formed by Owenbeg River. To find the circle, drive the R584 from Keakil to Gougane Barra and watch for a lane on the left hand, that climbs uphill approximately 2km behind Carriganass Castle. At around 3.6km the lane forks, follow the right track and after about 5km (from R584) the lane ends at a farm on the left hand side. Park here and ask for permission. The circle lies in the field behind the farm, there is a gate between the farmhouse and a barn, use this to enter the field. There you should see the circle downhill.

This circle is a dinky little five stone circle, it’s stones vary marginally in size and none is higher than 1m. This and the location of the circle (more in a hollow) reminds me a bit of Cousane. Burl mentions long views down the valley, which is true for the northwest in some degree, but in the southwest there is a reforested little wood that blocks the sight.

Nevertheless not a spectacular ring, but worth the short trip if you are in the area.

Visited May 2009

Pretty hard to beat Mr Hogans (to serious for me and at school I was told the battle was at nearby Cruden Bay) comments. The farmer has signposted the cairn-good, put a path to and all round the cairn -good and left it open at one end so that cows could get in and chase me back to the car-not so good. Otherwise everything that Mr Hogan describes is there except the mess on my boots!

Visited 31/06/09.

Longside is sited on the A950 and near the centre of the village turn north onto Station Road, then Station Terrace following the road as it turns left. Keep going until a signpost marked Ardlaw footpath is seen. Be sensible and leave the car. Walk for about 1/4 mile and some gates will be reached. Turn left entering the field on the right and walk diagonally across this field to another gate. The kerb cairn is found in the next field about 50 meters in.

Luckily for me the farmer drove me in his 4x4 to the location. He was genuinely proud that this ancient monument was on his land. 4 stones of the kerb remain with others probably hiding beneath the turf and heather. A circular raised mound is behind the stones giving the hint of something larger. Indeed this would be the perfect spot for a RSC because of tremendous all round views. To add weight to that argument near the gate, in the same field, are massive boulders which have obviously been cleared away. Sadly I didn’t see any cup marks. Trees at some stage had also grown here but only stumps remained.

The farmer also added that he had stopped ploughing these fields as he ploughed large boulders on almost every occasion. In the next field, nearer South Dumpston, there is also loads of stones which I’ll have a look at later.

Good on the farmer!

Visited 31/06/09.

I found M’lud Yatesbury’s directions in the Megalithic European pretty much spot on for this.

Parked by the exceedingly overgrown bridge and walked up the farm track, getting no answer at the bungalow. However the farmer happened to walk by with his dogs and said ‘no problem’ – I think – in a heavy Cork brogue. Didn’t ‘quite’ – ahem – catch the directions and didn’t want to press it, so asked the lady in the farmhouse opposite the closed gate..... ‘as long as you’ve got boots and don’t mind the cows’.....

The tomb is a superb example of a wedge tomb, so called because the whole double-walled structure, with two spindly, fragile-looking portals, is contained within a heel-shaped cairn.
Brambles encroach upon the site as if to remind the traveller who this really belongs to.....

The tomb commands far reaching views and the cows were far more docile than the psycho bovines which chased us out of Kealkill earlier in the week. Luckily.

Although the views are not in quite the same league as its namesake near Church Stretton (although the beautiful Shropshire landscape is always worth writing home about nonetheless), this lovely hillfort is arguably a superior example of the genre, relying entirely on its own defences.

These are pretty formidable, it has to be said, two banks and ditch being supplemented by an additional bank and two more ditches (I think) on the more vulnerable northern flank. The entrances are at the eastern and western ends of the enclosure, the western being more heavily fortified.

Sited overlooking the village of Chapel Lawn, somewhat to the north-east(ish) of Knighton, it would appear that very few come here – the cows were certainly most put out by my appearance..... Not signposted (at the time of my visit, anyway), leave the A488 at New Invention for Chapel Lawn and take the first sharp right, parking at a kink in the road where a footpath heads off to the east. The hillfort crowns the, er, hill in front. Enjoy.

Maes Howe...... of all the chambered cairns you’d wish to be teleported to the end of a two mile mountain track, far away from the vaguely interested hordes, it’d be this beauty. But that would be elitist, wouldn’t it? And of course remove it from its finely determined position within the Stenness landscape.

Despite only being accessible via (the dreaded) guided tour, there are no carvings or Neolithic art to protect here. Just the – no doubt drunken – braggings of Erik the Viking scrawled on the walls like some 15 year old in the school toilets (no doubt Helga would have disagreed and asserted that he was crap in bed, actually.... ha!). Although not without interest, surely a few slabs of perspex would cater for what are, after all, nothing more than graffiti? In my opinion too much emphasis is placed upon the runes and not nearly enough on what must surely be the finest chambered tomb in the British Isles? But everyone’s heard of the Vikings, right?

Everything about the construction of Maes Howe is exquisite, from the unfeasibly long slabs fitted together in a manner that would make a dry-stone wall builder freak out (not to mention an Inca), to the superb entrance passage and blocking stone. But for me the four monoliths built into the corners – more than suggesting an existing stone circle or other arrangement was deliberately incorporated within the design – is the salient point. Never seen this before.

Maes Howe will never possess the atmosphere of, say, Cuween Hill or Wideford Hill just up the road. But it is the crowning achievement of Neolithic Britain and an essential visit.

Went here on a very hot day in June. Was pleasantly surprised to see that work has started. There are two field gates with space for a couple of cars and easy access to the field.It is nice to see the meadow flowers starting to grow.I await now eagerly for something to happen to the Stones, it is quite a jigsaw puzzel.

Membury Fort lies on flat ground, six miles north of Hungerford. To the east are the remains of R.A.F. Membury which was decommissioned in 1946. (see link below). The M4 motorway was constructed over the old runway and a motorway service area now lies on the old control tower.

Although Membury Fort is classified on the SMR, (No. SU37NW200), as an Iron-Age Hillfort, Mesolithic, Neolithic and Romano-British finds from the site indicate a long, continual history of occupation and agricultural use. The Roman road, Ermin Street, runs to the north and shadows the modern M4. This may indicate that the fort was still in use as an agricultural grain drying/storage site right through the Roman period.

Access is either from the north via the old Ermin Street, the Baydon road, or from the south via the lane that runs by Membury Lodge. The fort is part of the Membury Estate, which is now being converted into a stud farm. We parked by the Membury Lodge and walked through the main gate, following the public footpath around Membury house and through the well manicured parkland, stables and out buildings.
“Keep to the Footpath” and “Guard Dogs on the Loose” signs might put some people off, but all we saw was a Jack Russell. There were people enjoying the summer sun but they were the other side of the extensive walls. The footpath is well marked and leads to the southern side of the fort.

A farm track runs right across the fort and up to the north-east wooded sector known as Walls Copse.
This wood is in Berkshire, while the rest of the fort is in Wiltshire. To the left of this border is a sunken pond which may well be the reason the fort was built here in the first place. The pond had a “Majestic” vibe to it with ancient sessile oaks and service trees around its edge. There was another, smaller pond on the northern side and outside the fort. This was very overgrown but also seemed original.

We spent about two hours walking around and saw only 2 other walkers in the distance. The site had an undisturbed feel with much wildlife. The noise of the M4 didn’t creep in until we reached the bridge over it. The banks were over grown but still very defined. I couldn’t tell where the original entrances where, but the southern one may well have been original.

A nice site to wonder around on a summer’s day. Very relaxed with loads of atmosphere and the possibility of picking up Neolithic flints on the surface when there are no standing crops.

Chance – June 2009

One of the very first ancient sites I came across many moons ago....... and certainly one of the most extreme, crowning the ridge between 3,425ft Carnedd Dafydd – itself, as the name suggests, bearing a burial cairn or two – and 3,211ft Pen Yr Ole Wen. Clearly these majestic mountains held great ritual significance back then, the abode of the gods even?

The word ‘Carnedd/Garnedd’ refers to ‘cairn’ in Welsh, but only in such a landscape could this example be referred to as ‘small’.

Although much denuded and turned into a windbreak by people who really should know better – but clearly don’t – this is a truly awesome spot, particularly for those who know its significance.

I doubt even the most hardened stone-head will make a special trip – be warned, The Carneddau are serious mountains – but if you happen to pass by (as you do)......... bonus site!! Right on!

There are quite a few hills in upper Coquetdale, but not many have proper big old BA burial cairns on them. Shillhope manages to qualify presumably because of the 360° view, which is superb. Cheviot and Hedgehope are nicely silhouetted to the north, with Windy Gyle and Russel’s Cairn to the west, whilst the eastern aspect stretches as far as the mouth of the Coquet, with a nicely silhouetted Simonside just to the south east.

The cairn itself isn’t in as bad a condition as I’d imagined it would be. The beacon sangar that has been constructed from the cairn material is clearly visible on the sat images and this usually means everything has been so disturbed it’s going to be hard to tell if you’re looking at a genuine prehistoric burial monument or not, even before the disturbance resulting from the addition of the inevitable concrete trig pillar. The ones on top of Simonside particularly suffer like this. But Shillhope’s cairn is in comparitively OK nick, having a clear kerb around it, best preverved to the NE side.

It’s a bit strenuous in places, but the easiest ascent is from the path just behind Barrowburn camping barn, which is also a cracking good place to use as a base if spending a couple of days exploring the area. Somewhere on the route between Barrowburn and the top of Shillhope is the telephoto lens I dropped, so if you’re up that way, keep an eye out ;-)

A large round barrow/cairn standing near the summit of King’s Tor, to the north east of Grimspound and possessing superb panoramic views to the north.

Although ‘hollowed out’ by the usual treasure seeking muppets of antiquity, this remains a substantial monument and a great hang. One would assume the reference to royalty isn’t that far from the mark and that some individual(s) of serious prestige were interred here once upon a time.........

Best approached from the aforementioned – not to mention superb – Grimspound, the walk is simple enough in good weather. Needless to say you need to know what you’re doing at other times since mist can suddenly sweep in.

Bit surprised to find nothing already existing for this fabulous site at the northern tip of North Uist, sited on an island within Loch an Sticir.......

One of the best preserved brochs in the Western Isles, I was most impressed by the entrance arrangements here, with a causeway leading to an island, from which a second causeway leads finally to the broch – sort of like a prehistoric precursor of Bodiam Castle, for all you castle-heads out there.

The medieval connection is upheld, since a rectangular house was apparently built upon the island at some time during the period, the existing causeways being adaptations of the original arrangement.

Legend has it that a poor sod named Hugh Macdonald – I take it he was a Scot! – hid out here before being taken to Skye and imprisoned within Duntulm Castle.... with salt beef and an empty jug. Nice.

Not far from Newtonferry on the Berneray road off the B893.