Latest Fieldnotes

Ha! What odds that the only previous fieldnote, recording Mr Hamilton’s visit, would be posted a couple of days before my own audience with these striking megaliths? I’ve wanted to come here for a while.... but Scotland is an, er, ‘interesting’ place, the schedule of the committed antiquarian odds-on not to survive a progress across such a wondrous landscape intact. What a good thing, too.

If you are anything like me – if so, I sympathise... no, really, I do – it’ll take a while to get to the beginning of the track to Camasunary, the key to visiting this circle..... assuming you manage to get past the An Sithean tomb, that is. To be honest it would have been quicker to walk around the head of Loch Slapin, such are the ‘photo’ opportunities offered by the stunningly striking profile of Bla Bheinn and associates. However, eventually.... a little way past Strathaird House there’s plenty of available parking on the left. The Black Cuillin present an uncompromisingly brutal profile to the west, the jagged, angular grabbo rock faces every child’s vision of what mountains are supposed to be. Nearer to hand, however, look toward the small loch to the right of the prominent copse of trees and a keen eye should make out a trio of standing stones. Worth a look.

Unlike Mr Hamilton, I blunder across the intervening ground and just about avoid a suitably deserved boot full of bog. Just about. However I find the loch inflows as easy to cross as he reports. The short trek is worth it. There are actually four stones here.... hence the classification as ‘stone circle’ as opposed to ‘alignment’ or ‘row’, which would otherwise be justified. The three which remain upright are all handsome examples of the genre, of approx adult human height. The fallen monolith, however, is much more substantial, measuring some 11ft 6 inches in length (according to RCAHMS 1928).

The sun beats down and I decide this is as good a place as any to spend some quality Skye time. Curiously only a small section of The Cuillin rise above the horizon viewed from within the circle, the effect perhaps intentional? Gorsedd-like? As I doze off I sense, am suddenly acutely aware... that ‘some one’ has arrived and is standing behind me, clearly reluctant to introduce his/her presence. Maybe shy, maybe reluctant to disturb the vibe? Perhaps unsure how to relate to the individual sprawled upon the ground below? Whatever. Nevertheless it eventually begins to irk, so I rise to my feet to find... that... yeah, no-one is there. Just the lapping of the water upon the shore of the loch below. What sorcery is this ?!? I feel a bit of a muppet, but no need, to be fair. Surely such theatrics were ‘built in’ to monuments such as these ‘false stones’. All part of the experience, the traveller simply ‘getting’ the vibe as intended. Thank you for that, erectors of Na Clachan Bhreige. Hey, was ever a site more inadequately named? Its detractors perhaps protested too much, methinks.

Echoing the opinions of those who came before .... I thought this a wondrous site, all things considered. OK, it’s far from being the best preserved tomb you’ll ever see. That’s a given. However, despite the proximity of the minor – yet nonetheless relatively busy – Elgol road, the skyline of Beinn na Caillich, (presumably ancient) summit cairn clearly visible, ensured this chambered cairn possessed a superb vibe. Particularly with the setting sun falling behind the sacred peak....

A half dozen – or so – othostats protruding from the upper surface, like rotten teeth (yet with infinitely greater aesthetic appeal), confirm that this was – hell, is – a funerary monument. The cairn itself is deceptively substantial, particularly so if the traveller sees fit to engage in a wander to the north. However I agree with the SC that it is not clear – to this layman, at least – how much mass was actually placed here by human agency, how much is natural bedrock accentuated and fashioned into the desired profile with additional stone? If the latter made a substantial contribution to the overall effect, the architects were a clever bunch... knew exactly what they were doing. Guess they did, regardless. Assuming the intention was to make an outstanding impression upon the ‘inner recesses’ of the human psyche.

Despite the great appeal of this site, the thought of the legendary Na Clachan Bhreige stone circle down the road attracts me like the proverbial space-time singularity. Yeah, there is no escaping the overwhelming gravitational pull. Nevertheless I must – and do – return to An Sithean when the day is done in order to experience some more of this easilly visited, yet impossible to forget place. Yeah, best appreciated when the road is quiet, the tourists all tucked up in their B&B rooms, just the wandering cows and sheep for company.

Visited 2.6.12

Directions:
Approx 2 miles north of Castletown – right next to the A836 – Dunnet Bay side of the road.

This is a coastal area with many large sand dunes part covered in grass. Take your pick which ones the cairns are!

Canmore States:
‘Two sand and turf covered cairns. The one in the east has a loose flat slab, 09m x 0.6m, lying prostrate on its east arc’.

Visited 2.6.12

I thought it was going to be tricky finding this Souterrain but it was actually very easy.
Take the main A838 south east from Durness and as you drive past Loch Eriboll, keep an eye out for a small lay by / passing place on your left with a small modern stone cairn built at each end. There is room to park one car between the cairns and the Souterrain is immediately behind the parking place – probably semi-hidden by ferns.

Despite the weather having been dry for well over a week the stone steps down into the Souterrain were wet. This is easily the wettest underground chamber I have ever visited.
The entrance into the Souterrain is low and narrow – and wet! The stonework is in good condition.

I managed to get about 8 metres into the entrance before being stopped as the passage way was now underwater.
I shone my light into the blackness and would estimate the passage ran for about another 8 metres. I threw a stone into the water to try to estimate the depth but I couldn’t tell. If I had brought my wellies I would have ventured further but I didn’t so I couldn’t!

This is an easy site to visit as long as you park in the right place.

Just make sure you bring your wellies!

Visited 2.6.12

Now, this is what I call remote.
If you think the A838 in Sutherland is remote this is something else!
You have to travel south for a good 10 miles or more along a minor road off the A838.
No houses, no farms, no people – just a loch and a pretty valley to enjoy.

Despite being a Historic Scotland site it is not sign posted which I guess isn’t too surprising when you consider how far away from anyone / anything it is!
Eventually you arrive at the broch (right next to road) where there is a small lay by to park in.

An information board states that the broch has never been excavated.
I was disappointed to find that the doorway is blocked and the whole of the inside of the broch has been infilled and is now covered in grass. All you get to see is the outside.
The walls of the broch are pretty well preserved and stand to a height of about 6 metres.

On the plus side the scenery is lovely (as is everywhere in Sutherland) and the children enjoyed playing by a stream and watching tadpoles and a frog in a large puddle. A cuckoo sang out in the distance.

Driving to the broch I saw one of the strangest things I have ever seen. As I described, this place really is in the middle of nowhere, yet we passed a chap in the middle of the valley floor (full of spiky grass) with a petrol powered grass strimmer! Why on earth he was cutting the grass there I have no idea. He was miles from anyone and anything! Very odd.

Unless like me you are trying visit all the Historic Scotland sites I couldn’t really recommend the long detour off the A838 to visit the broch – although it is a pretty drive.

Visited 2.6.12

Directions:
A short distance north from Lyne chambered cairn. It is visible from the road.

We parked on the grass verge – not a problem in this part of the world.
I walked over to the low, grass covered mound and saw several small stones sticking out of the grass. There’s not really much else to add.

Canmore states:
‘The cairn is no more than 0.8m high. There is no indication of a chamber of any structural feature’.

Visited 2.6.12

Directions:
Approx 2 miles north of Ardvreck castle on the right hand side of the A894.
The cairn sits on top of a steep rise and cannot be seen from the road.

We parked on the grass verge and I clambered up the short but very steep slope to the cairn.

There are 9 large stones forming a rough circle – 5 of the stones are in a group.
The cairn has clearly been dug into at some point in the past and is approx 2 metres high x 5 metres across. It has been cut in half by the road. There is lots of green lichen on the stones.

The cairn occupies a good spot and affords lovely views.It was really pretty when I visited with bluebells, fern and heather in abundance.

It is well worth stopping off for a look at the cairn but it does require a steep climb.

Visited 2.6.12

We parked in the car park for the castle and I carried Sophie over to the castle while Karen stayed in the car with Dafydd who was asleep. The castle is well worth a look over and there was a free information leaflet you could have about the castle’s history.

As for the chambered cairn there are several largish stones to be seen on a small hillock near the castle so access is easy.
This is a scenic spot and the castle / loch / valley all seem to sit in harmony.

A little up the road (north) on the right is a very pretty waterfall which we also stopped at.

Visited 2.6.12

This is a good place to visit if you are ever this far north.

There are parking and toilet facilities and a steep path takes you down to the beach and the cave.

After crossing a little wooden foot bridge you can then walk into the entrance of this massive cave and see / hear the waterfall.

However, if you wish to see further into the cave you have to pay (£4 adult / £2 children) to be taken across the water via dinghy. We decided not to bother as time was against us (we still had a long drive ahead) and the children were happy throwing stones into the little stream. Many noisy birds flew overhead.

It’s a bit of a climb back up to the car park – particularly if you are carrying children!

Visited 1.6.12

My last day on the Western Isles before catching the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool. It is fair to say that I leave Lewis with a heavy heart but I am comforted in the fact that I have more adventures to come.

On the way to Stornoway I can make one last site visit – Druim Dubh.

I am afraid to report that the Halfway garage is now closed, boarded up and starting to fall into disrepair. There is a lot of litter about. It does however still provide a good marker in order to spot the stone circle.

The remaining stones have all fallen and are all about 1 metre in length. The stones occupy a slight rise. Pity they aren’t re-errected.

If you are ever heading to Stornoway (as you do) this ruined circle is well worth a quick look.

Visited 31.5.12

The weather was again sunny with some white fluffy clouds but windy.
I somehow managed to spend a whole week on the Western Isles without seeing any rain – what are the chances?

It was just as well the weather had been kind or otherwise this would have been a very muddy walk from the road to the circle.

The information board states that this site has never been properly excavated and it is not known if this is a circle or cairn?

There are 5 decent sized standing stone with 1 large fallen stone.
Lots of smaller stones scattered all around.

Nearby there is a line of stones which looks like it may be the remains of some sort of enclosure?

There is also a small fenced off area with a ‘mound’ inside – no idea what this is – a cairn perhaps?

Although this is far from being the best stone circle I have seen this week at least it is another Historic Scotland site to tick off the old list – so I’m happy.

Viewed 31.5.12

Easily seen on the walk up to Steinacleit stone circle.

The causeway is visible but appeared to be slightly under water.

I watched as a man tried to tip toe his way across – he gave up.
I am sure if he had wellies on he would have been fine!

A modern cairn has been built in the middle of the site.

Visited 31.5.12

We parked on the main road in Siadar and I walked up the rough track, between the two buildings, which runs south west of the stone circle. As you get closer to the stone there is a metal field gate on your left to go through/over and a short walk across a field to the remaining standing stone.
It is approx a 10 minute walk from the main road.

From the circle you get a good view of Loch An Duin Stone Fort and Steinacleit Stone Circle is also clearly visible on top of the adjacent hill.

The standing stone is approximately 1.5 metres tall with a pointy top.
It is covered in ‘hairy’ lichen.

The stone stands on a raised circular mound approximately 10 metres across.
I assume this is the circumference of the stone circle?
There are many stones sticking out of the grass around the edge of the raised area.

As Kammer said, I doubt this stone circle receives many visitors.

Visited 31.5.12

It’s certainly a whopper!

The stone is sign posted and very easy to access and stands in its own small patch of land. The stone is covered in the light green ‘hairy’ lichen.

I am pleased to say that the rusting cars etc have been removed and the area around the stone was clear of crap.

There are good coastal views to be had from the stone. Definitely one to visit.

[visited 30/6/12] I tried to find this before, just following Stu’s instructions on here and failed, giving up after an hour or so. This time I was better armed with an 8 figure grid ref and a GPS which got me to within 10 metres of the stone, a quick search of the vicinity then proving fruitful! As it turns out I got witin 50 metres last time and decided against trying yet another last group of trees. If I had persisted I probably would have found it last time. Stu’s instructions are basically sound, I’d clarify them by adding what I thought first time was the wide peat gulley wasn’t, the gulley we want being closer to Birchen Edge just before the land starts to climb again.

The stone isn’t very imoressive but worth a look if you are up here. It looks like it was perhaps part of a larger piece and has been broken off. The carvings are visible but quite weather worn.

Access is possible from a few directions, the North-East being perhaps most accessible though I haven’t approached from that direction.

Visited 31.5.12

We stopped off to have a look at this broch whilst on the way to visit the Arnol Blackhouse (H.S. site – well worth a visit)

Karen parked on the grass verge and I strolled across to the loch. The ground was spongy but dry – in wet weather I am sure it would be very boggy.

It is easy enough to cross over to the broch – the stony causeway is only about 20 metres long.

The broch ruins were larger than I had expected with tumbled walls still about 2 metres high. The broch is about 15 metres across.

Worth a look when in this part of Lewis although I doubt many people come here!

Visited 31.5.12

My most northern site visit on the Outer Hebrides – a good one too!

Directions:
Take the A857 north to Port Nis and then take the B8014 turning just before the harbour. You can park near the house which has the track running alongside it which leads to stones – 1 minute walk. There is a signpost for the Dun (which I didn’t have time to walk to) and the stones can be seen from the road, in front of the water tower.

As I walked over to the stones a farmer appeared with a trailer load of peat. He smiled and waved as he unloaded the peat into a big pile behind the house.

One stone is 1.5 metre high x 1 metre wide. ‘Hairy’ lichen covered the stones.
The other stone is about 1 metre square – covered on quartz.

If you ever get this far north check these stones out – well worth the minimal effort.

Visited 31.5.12

Directions:
Continue north along the A858 after visiting Dun Carloway broch.
When you reach Carlabhagh take the minor road west.

The stone is sited in what appears to be someone’s back garden?

The stone is easy enough to see from the road and looks to be about 2 metres tall.

Visited 31.5.12

Signposted from the main A858.

Sophie was asleep so Karen stayed in the car while myself and Dafydd walked up to the visitor centre. I was surprised that there were no staff present and guides could be purchased by writing you name on a sheet of paper and putting the money in an honesty box! Isn’t it nice that there are still places where this type of trust works?

In the visitor centre there is a self guided walk with various reconstructions to give you an idea of how Dun Carloway would have looked when inhabited.

We then walked along the path towards the broch. Dafydd was ‘on form’ and didn’t stop asking questions – all the way there and all the way back!

The broch is the best preserved in the Western Isles and affords wonderful views.
You can walk part way up the inner staircase.

Definitely worth a visit when in this remote part of the world.

‘View from road’ 31.5.12

Easy to see from the road – overgrown jumbled remains.

A modern cairn stands in the middle of the site.
Access would be easy enough across the causeway if you wished.

Time was against me as I wanted to get to Dun Carloway – just up the road.

Visited 31.5.12

Just up the road from Olcote kerbed cairn – on the same side of the road.

The stone is right next to a bus stop, approximately 1.5 metres high and set in a concrete/pebble base.

As it was nearly 11.00pm and the stone is in a residential area I didn’t hang around too long.
I didn’t want anyone to get the wrong idea!

Visited 31.5.12

I drove past this kerbed cairn twice before realising where it was.

It was 11.00pm but still light enough to be out ‘old stoning’; write my notes and be able to read the information board! Needless to say there was no one else about. Karen and the children were happily tucked up in bed back at the B+B.

It is great that the cairn has survived at all given that the road cut it in half.
At least there was no traffic at this time of night – only mad people looking at ‘old stones’!

Visited 31.5.12

What madness is this? 10.30pm and I am climbing up a steep hill, over a barbed wire fence and looking for a chambered cairn in the middle of a field!
To be fair the cairn was easy enough to spot when you get to the top of the hill.

There are 4 stones making up the cairn – each about 1 metre high.
Despite the dry weather we had experienced the ground was still quite boggy.

The views from the cairn are cracking. The sun had set and sky was red. The moon shone overhead. The wind had dropped and the views over Lewis made the steep climb well worth the effort. The views really were a lovely sight.

Visited 31.5.12

The remaining standing stone is approximately 1.5 metre tall x 0.5 metre across.

The views from the stone are the best I have seen on Lewis – breathtaking.
They show Lewis at its best – both rugged and beautiful.
The sun darted in and out of clouds and lit up parts of the mountains in the distance.

I was in the right place at the right time for the light to reveal ‘Sleeping Beauty’ in all her glory. She was so clear and recognisable – the best I had seen her during my stay – watching over all that she surveyed.

The view set out in front of me had to be one of the highlights of my short but fulfilling stay on Lewis. Simply stunning.

Visited 31.5.12

As Kammer correctly predicted I did indeed arrive at the cairns before the stone circle.

The larger cairn is about 1 metre high x 10 metres across.
The smaller cairn is about 0.5 metre high x 8 metres across.

There were plenty of sheep and lambs milling around the cairns and most ran away as I approached. One mother sheep had different ideas and headed straight towards me. I stood and watched as she got closer and closer. At one point I thought she was going to ram me (excuse the pun). But she stopped a few feet away and stared at me intently until I left!