Latest Fieldnotes

Failed to spot these two chambered cairns.
The ground here is very steep, rough and has lots of natural boulders scattered about.

Canmore states:

Knockan 1
‘An overgrown mound of debris 17.5m x 15m x 1.5m high. Just west of the centre is a triangular shaped slab 1 m high x 3mm thick with another 1.5m to the south protruding through the turf. Both slabs are undoubtedly part of a chamber of uncertain plan’.

Knockan 2
‘The cairn survives as a turf covered mound of debris. It is now roughly oval and measures 15m x 10m x 1.5m high. From the summit of the mound the tops of 5 stones of the chamber protrude to a height of 0.5m’.

Visited 4.6.12

Despite arriving at Tormiston Mill at 10.00am the earliest tour we could get on was 7.00pm! (Twilight tour) We spent the day visiting other sites in the area and duly returned at 6.30pm as requested. Unsurprisingly Dafydd was the only child on the tour and he was the only one with a head light on!

Karen and Sophie stayed and looked around the shop whilst myself and Dafydd followed the painted footprints across the road and to the chamber – just in case we couldn’t find it!

The tour was full (12 people I think) and we were soon joined by Ben our guide – who also had a torch.

A brief introduction talk was given outside and we then all slowly entered the burial chamber. Dafydd and myself hung around at the back so we could walk a bit slower and take in as much as possible. Once inside, the main chamber was larger than I expected and there was plenty of room for all of us. As previously mentioned the stonework is excellent.

Ben then gave a very informative talk and invited questions from the ‘audience’ which he duly answered as best he could. It was then time to see the Viking Runes and the lights were turned off so they could be highlighted by Ben’s torch – which it did superbly.
(I wasn’t expecting to see a dragon/griffin carving)
We took it in turns to have a closer look and before we knew it, it was time to leave.
The time went really quick and everyone seemed to enjoy their visit.

Make sure you book well in advance if you are under time constraints. It must get mega busy in the main holiday period.

I know this type of organised tour is not everyone’s cup of tea but I don’t have a problem with them. At least this way you are guaranteed to be able to have a look in the tomb with a relatively small number of people. Without this system it would be like sardines in the chamber. I don’t know how you would get out once you were inside!
It does also allow the site to be protected for future generations to enjoy.

Visited 4.6.12

This is one large and very impressive stone.
It would not look out of place at Stenness.

I hope someone doesn’t drive into it!

Visited 4.6.12

The B9055 can be a busy old road and this could make seeing these stones difficult if travelling by car.

I waited until the evening when all was quiet and we were able to pull up next to the house.
What a great feature to have in your garden!

One stone is approximately 1.5 metres high and the other 3 metres high.
The tops of the stones are covered in ‘hairy’ lichen – the most I have seen on a stone so far.

Visited 4.6.12

I won’t bother to describe the stones in any detail as it has already been done by many others before me. All I would say is that they are a lot taller in real life than they appear in photos.
They are certainly the best standing stones I have ever seen which make up a stone circle.

I visited the stones several times during my week on Orkney as they are so worthy a visit, so easy to visit and you tend to pass then whilst going to other sites around Orkney.

The first time I visited was under a cloudless evening when I had the place to myself.
I also visited in the rain and biting wind when I had coach loads of people for company!

A good way to see the stones is sat in the window of the ice cream parlour!
(The Orkney coconut ice cream is probably the best I have ever tasted – you, yum!)

This is an obvious ‘must see’.

Visited 4.6.12

They are currently doing road works next to the site – not sure if this is for sea defences or widening the road which is single track at this point?

Karen parked a bit further down the road and I hopped on the small stone wall to see what I could see? All I could see was the previous years dig fully covered in tarpaulin.
The site is quite a large area.

At this point a car pulled up and wound the window down.
It was a Historic Scotland ‘Ranger’ who wanted to know what I was up to?
When I explain I was informed that this year’s dig wouldn’t be starting until 16th July.
I said ‘ok, thanks’ and she drove off while I walked back to the car.

It will be of interest to see what they unearth this year?

Visited 4.6.12

The stone stands in the middle of a field but you really can’t miss it.

The field in which it stands was in crop so I settled for a roadside view so not to cause any damage.

Although the stone lines up with the entrance to Maeshowe it was strangely not mentioned by our guide when we visited Maeshowe later in the evening.

Visited 4.6.12

When I arrived at the site a Historic Scotland ‘Ranger’ was just finishing giving a talk.
During the summer months there are free talks given at both Stenness and Brodgar.

Surely these buildings are related to the stone circle?

Between the building and the loch I noticed two large stones.
One is standing (right on the loch side) and about 1 metre high. It looks old and was covered in lichen.
The other is prostrate and is about 2 metres x 1 metre.
I have not seen any mention of these stones before so I assume they are ‘modern’?

Visited 3.6.12

You come to this site on the way to the tomb (it’s about half way).

I must say that I got a lot more out of this visit after listening to the talk we were given at the visitor centre.

The floor plan of the building is very clear to see.

The burnt mound is right next to it.

View from afar 2.6.12

The O/S map shows ‘Stone Row’ a little north of Cnoc Freiceadain chambered cairns.

I didn’t have time to go tramping over the fields for a close-up look but I thought I may have been able to spot the stones form atop the chambered cairn with the help of my trusty binoculars. Unfortunately I couldn’t make the stones out.

The fields are covered in gorse and generally overgrown.

Canmore states:
‘The stone rows, in a hollow on undulating moorland, are considerably obscured by peat and heather growth. Only half the stones can be traced. The southern stones have been almost entirely buried by the vegetation. The stones appear to radiate from the direction of the two cairns’.
** This report is from 1969 so it doesn’t surprise me I couldn’t see anything.

Visited 2.6.12

A large grass covered mound to the left of a white farmhouse.
Directly across the road from Cnoc Freiceadain chambered cairns.

Canmore states:
‘The mound is 2m high and has been mutilated in the north wand west by excavation and in the south east by a garden extension. It’s regular shape suggests a burial cairn’.

Visited 3.6.12

After visiting the Fossil Museum (with its very nice cafe) and the amazing Italian Chapel (a ‘must see’) I wanted to take a quick look at this ‘ancient village’.

In truth all I saw was a lumpy / bumpy field. I wasn’t expecting much else so I wasn’t disappointed.

Visited 2.6.12

After a very enjoyable hour or so at Banks Chamber Tomb I was really looking forward to my visit to the famous Tomb of the Eagles.

We parked in the large car park and wandered into the visitor’s centre. There were a few people around but not too many. Karen and Sophie looked around the shop whilst myself and Dafydd paid our money and entered a side room where we were given a talk about the site and what had been found. This is also the room which has the finds in glass cases.
The lady giving the talk took some objects out to show us (including the skulls) and we were allowed to hold a few stone items. There were several of us in the room and the talk was very interesting. I was hoping to be able to hold the famous polished ‘button’ but had to settle for looking at it through glass instead.

We then went into another room where we had an interesting talk on the brunt mound and Bronze Age building also discovered. I will certainly give more thought to burnt mounds in future! All questions asked were well answered and all the staff were very friendly.

We then went outside and it was a little daunting to see the sign which said the tomb was 1 mile away – I knew this meant a part-walk / part-carry with Dafydd! Lucky the weather was nice. Dafydd insisted on wearing his ‘burial chamber’ kit – head light and old clothes.

The rest of the group decided to head straight for the tomb but me and Dafydd instead went to visit the Bronze Age building and Liddlell Burnt Mound. This worked well as we ended up have both sites to ourselves. I was able to appreciate the building / burnt mound a lot more after listening to the talk we had just had.

We then walked out to the main attraction and were glad to see everyone else had moved on. Dafydd excitedly lay on the ‘skateboard’ and pulled himself inside. I excitedly followed!

Inside the chamber was light and airy. We took it in turn to peer/crawl into the side chambers and look at the skulls behind the Perspex. Once we had seen enough we pulled ourselves back out of the tomb and walked back to the visitor centre.

Karen and Sophie were patiently waiting for us and chatting to staff, who kindly provided a box of toys to keep her entertained. We looked around the shop and I bought a guide book although in hindsight I wished I had also bought a sweatshirt.

As we were leaving the lady who gave the first talk called us to one side. She said that she and her staff had been very impressed with Dafydd’s behaviour, knowledge and interest in the site. She asked if Dafydd would like a photo holding ‘Jock Tamson’s’ skull? – of course he did!
We went back into the room and the door was closed. Dafydd was handed the skull and was able to hold it (with support from the lady) whilst Karen took some prized photos. I was really impressed by how friendly the staff were and very proud of Dafydd to be recognised this way.

It goes without saying that this is a ’must see’ site for anyone visiting Orkney (although I thought the guide book was a bit pricy at £5.95)
(Don’t forget to visit the nearby Banks Tomb while you are at it. Both sites are fab!)

Visited 3.6.12

Take the turn off for St Peter’s Kirk off the main A961.

When we visited the fields were in crop so I settled for a view from the road which was easy enough given the size of this monster stone.

There are good coastal views to be had from the stone.

I drive too far down the road to Kilmarie and miss the footbridge across what I presume to be the Abhainn Cille Mhaire flowing into Loch Slapin. However the sandy foreshore looks exquisite basking under the implausibly blue sky of this late May afternoon... hey, why not take a short cut across? Yeah, good idea. To be honest, it is.... as long as the traveller doesn’t mind temporarily removing boots and socks and having a wee paddle. Once across, follow the coastline around to the right and it would be very difficult to miss another of Skye’s superbly positionned ancient fortresses.

The fortified enclosure surmounts the northern of a pair of rocky knolls rising above the blue waters of the loch. I understand from Canmore that Dun Ringill was amended – updated, shall we say – somewhat during medieval times to serve the changing needs of its owners. More of a human footprint, then, than your average dun. However this means I’m not sure how much of the entrance arrangements – the passage of which is well preserved – represents later work? Whatever, the defences retain a formidable aspect.... impressive drystone walling protecting the landward approaches, natural crags to seaward rendering much less masonry necessary there. In contrast not a lot survives of whatever structures once stood within the confined enclosure. But there you are.

Substantial the ruins of Dun Ringill may be. However.... this being Skye... the location is arguably the primary reason to come here. Yeah, the coastal views are, needless to say, exceptional. The vibe is pretty good, too, the short coastal walk ensuring any half interested tourists remain in their cars this glorious afternoon. I can live with that.

On the way back I decide to try and locate the (apparent) long cairn at Cnocan nan Gobhar... this is most certainly a mistake (take the bridge), the intervening woodland turning out to be a water logged wilderness of bramble. However I manage to extricate myself and approach the riverside, via a stile.... only to have some arrogant, ignorant ‘individual’ shout at me from the safety of the high walled house across the water. Not a good idea... Seems the blighter’s most put out that I’m here and is clearly not adverse to talking to people as if they are servants. I nickname the wrong ‘un ‘Shug’ (he reminds me of the ‘plastic Scot’ character in Rab C Nesbitt) and point out he should: 1) learn some manners; 2) remove the bloody stile, then! Jeez. What’s more, time has run out if I want to see sunset at An Sithean... and I must leave. As for Shug... ah, best leave the bampot to his own misery. He’s nae worth any more of my time!

Mother Skye obviously concurs, for as I drive along the eastern shore of Loch Slapin once more, rhetorically asking myself whether anything can be so magnificent, so beautiful?.... a veritable vision of feminine loveliness in cropped top and shorts approaches. She flashes a smile which I reckon has the beating of Bla Bheinn hands down... and Skye’s apology for the ‘Shug episode’ is gratefully accepted.

For a change I headed home via the B9102 Archiestown road opposite the A95 on the other side of the Spey. Just before the first minor road heading south, to Cromdale, I noticed two stones in the field. Only now that I’ve made it home, I’ve found out that there another two stones nearer the farm. They’ll have to wait another day, but there are a few sites near here to discover so I’ll be back soon enough. (Strathie, take note!)

NJ05332912, the tallest of the stones, to the west is almost 1.75 meters tall. Packing stones and ‘chokes’ can be seen at the base of the stone.

NJ05402913, is only 1 meter in height and is the furthest east of the stones nearest the road.

It appears the only connection between all four stones is that they are close together and the view. Very spectacular views plus there is the River Spey.

Visited 6/7/2012.

After the battering of Finbuie a good rest was required so I decided to drive well to the south to Grantown On Spey and the excellent ‘chippie’ in the square. South of Grantown take the A95, then the A939 Tomintoul old military road. It is only a wee jump over the fence and a walk of about 100 meters.

The cairn is in a clearing to the east of the road after the trees on the same side. This must have been a superb cairn, it still is. Several kerbs remain in place, however it has been well robbed the stones being used to make dykes and buildings. Still, it remains at 10.5 meters wide and is 0.7 meters high. Fantastic location, still a fantastic site.

Visited 6/7/2012

Head south on the A940 after it’s junction with the B9007. Take the second minor road east and stop at the farm of the same name. Dallbraughty Cairn is a bit of a mess, how it survives is probably something of a miracle. Field clearence has been dumped on it some resembling kerbs. Fred Coles suggested there was once a circle here, a local farmer said that long stone near the cairn once stood, but he’d never seen any more. Looking around there are plenty of these ‘stone circley’ types lying all over place. Once upon a time or at best maybe.

The cairn now is turf covered, had some houking damage to the centre, 10 meters wide and 0.7 meters tall. Sadly no kerb! Views to south were hidden a little bit today, so atmosphere made up for the scenic difficulties. The hill is also covered in a cairnfield, these small cairns have almost been battered out of recognition.

After this I hiked up the Hill Of Gaschyle to the north east in dense christmas tree forest, some of the climb on my knees, in other bits throwing myself thru vegetation to make a way thru but to no avail, after a severe battering almost on a par to Mulloch Hill I stopped, darkness and the weather closing in thwarting my efforts. The Finbuie Cairn will have to be found another day. another nice day’s climbing :-)

Visited 6/7/2012.

Visited 3.6.12

Well I did visit but the church door was locked and I couldn’t get the key as it was a Sunday.
I tried looking through the windows but couldn’t see the stone.
The church is right on the shoreline.

I did have a look around the lovely old grave yard and admired the weather beaten old tombstones covered in the now familiar ‘hairy’ lichen.

I do like an old church / graveyard with character.

Visited 3.6.12

Day 9 of my holiday and my first day on Orkney!
I couldn’t have picked a better place to start my ‘Grand Tour’.

We caught the morning ferry over from Gills (boy was it windy!) and we arrived at Banks late morning. As we pulled up in the car park a lady approached us and asked if we had come for a tour of the chambered cairn? – Which of course we had. Karen stayed in the car with Sophie while Dafydd and myself walked over to the tomb, along with Barbara our guide.

Barbara pulled the wooden board out of the way which was blocking the entrance to the tomb and the 3 of us climbed down backwards. Barbara gave us an overview of the tomb and explained that 3 of the chambers had not yet been excavated but would be this summer.

We then had time to have a look in the chambers which had been excavated. Barbara was excellent with Dafydd and was surprised by his knowledge of burial chambers!
She also said he was the first visitor to the tomb who could walk along the passage without needing to bend down! Dafydd insisted on helping Barbara with her torch.

We then vacated the tomb and were shown into the nearby wooden shed.
Here Barbara carefully took various finds out of a box for us to hold or look at. These included human and animal bones, an antler tool pick and the stones scratched with lines.
We were able to hold the antler tool, a knee bone and the stones but not the leg bone.

It was great to visit a site still under investigation and who knows what they will find when they resume the dig this summer? It only cost £5 for what was in affect a private tour and I have to say that Barbara was excellent with Dafydd – an absolute bargain.

Banks is clearly a ‘work in progress’ in terms of establishing itself as a visitor attraction and it feels a bit ‘rough and ready’ – although I think this only adds to the charm of a visit. I am sure in the future it will be as ‘polished’ as a visit to the nearby Tomb of the Eagles. It is nice to be able to say I visited the site before the ‘polish’ is applied!

This is a top notch place to visit and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Along with the Tomb of the Eagles this is a MUST SEE site on South Ronaldsay.

If you happen to read this Barbara, thanks for helping make our visit such a memorable one.

Visited 2.6.12

There is a tiny Historic Scotland sign pointing the way to the long cairns from the minor road to the east. A wooden stile is helpfully provided to get over the field fence. It is then just a matter of heading up hill until you reach the cairns.

The small information board states the cairns are 5,000 years old. Both cairns are mangled but they are not looking bad for their age! H.S. state the cairns have never been excavated.

Both cairns are large and approximately 2 metres high. There are lots of small stones sticking out of the turf covering the cairns. There are also several large stones – one very large being about 1.5 metres long (part of the passage?)

There are good coastal views from the cairns and it does make you think that perhaps they were sited here to be seen from the sea? Away in the distance a power station and wind farm now dominate the shoreline.

These cairns are impressive but it was getting towards the end of a long day / drive so I don’t think I appreciated them as much as I should have. It’s a long old drive to get up here!

Viewed from road 2.6.12

Easy to spot grass covered mound on spur of land just north of Elphin on the A835

Canmore states:
‘This cairn is on a prominent spur on the north side of a hill summit. The cairn measures 4.1m across. The cist measures 1.1m long x 0.5m x 0.4m deep. The capstone, broken, lies displaced across the cist’.

Visited 2.6.12

The cairn is easily spotted from the road on the other side of a barbed wire fence.
You can park on the grass verge and access to the field is over a locked field gate.

The ruined cairn is on a grassy knoll and is approximately 20 metres across x 1.5 metres high.
There are lots of grey stones sticking out of the grass along with fern and heather.

The weather was sunny with white fluffy clouds and only a slight breeze.
This is a pretty spot with a river close by and mountains in the distance.

Visited 2.6.12

The chambered cairn is easy to spot on the right hand side of the road (if heading north); next to a stream, just before the road goes over a small bridge.

There are two stones still standing – each about 1 metre tall.
There are also 4 large fallen stones and lots of smaller stones scattered about.
Green and white lichen adorn the stones.

This is a lovely setting for a cairn with good views of the mountains in the distance.

Worth a quick visit when in this scenic part of the world.

After a somewhat disastrous visit to nearby Upper Balfour, attacked by whins, soaked by a heavy shower and amount of discoveries registered at zero I headed towards the minor road to west and headed south towards the Durris school junction. From there I headed east and took the first forestry track heading south, taking the second track to the west. Head south when track finishes, when the south path ends head back east over the hill. After a short but steepish climb the cairn comes into view nestling in a clearing.

A fair bit of ‘houking’ has occurred here and the cairn seems to be spread over a wide distance, it is probably over the 14 meters as Canmore states. At it’s highest it certainly is over 1.5 meters tall. There doesn’t seem to be any sign of a kerb. Unusually today it was warm and dry, Clune Wood makes for a superb walk. Take time to look at the small stories on the posts, the local children have done a good job. Follow the path to the south and the RSC will be found.

Visited 5/7/2012.