Latest Fieldnotes

View from road 9.6.12

Time was against me so it was only going to be a ‘drive by’ view.

The mound was easy enough to spot when travelling south but I couldn’t see the stone.

Visited 9.6.12

Access to the site is easy enough via a handy field gate but there is not much to see – just 3 small scruffy grass covered mounds.

Not a site I would recommend making an effort to visit.

Visited 8.6.12

This is a strange old place.

We parked in the car park and myself and Dafydd walked into the cabin which acts as a ‘visitor centre’. There wasn’t much to see other than a series of press cuttings attached to notice boards and a small tray of ‘finds’. It certainly doesn’t have the ‘polish’ of the other Orkney sites you have to pay to visit. No guidebook here.
The girl behind the desk was pleasant enough but seemed rather bored.

We picked up our hard hats and headed across the field towards the burial chamber.

The first thing you come to is a fenced off dug out area which shows a section of the original ditch which surrounded the chamber, although this had started to become overgrown.
It is a bit of an eye opener to see how deep and wide these ditches were.

We then walked up to what looks like an old fashioned out-house but which in fact is the protected entranceway into the tomb.

The steps were wet and steep. Water dripped down through the stone passageway.
I have never been to a site like this before – it reminded me more of a cave than a burial chamber. It didn’t have the ‘finish’ of all the other Orkney sites I had visited.
There is a handrail to help you down the steps with strip lighting attached. It is easier to go down backwards.

Half way down the steps is a small side chamber on your right.

We worked our way down to the bottom where there is an extra deep step onto the bottom.
Looking up from the bottom it again reminded me of being in a cave.

Now Dafydd has been in many burial chambers in his 4 years and has always appeared ‘at home’ – however narrow, deep or dark they are.
For the first time ever he said to me ‘I don’t like it in here’ and wanted to get out.
We headed back up the steps and I took him back to the car.
I returned on my own to go down again – it is an odd feeling being alone in the chamber looking up the dark, wet narrow steps with only the sound of dripping water for company.

I remember watching a Time Team special when Tony Robinson was stood in exactly the same place and said he felt ‘uneasy’ and was quick to leave.
I can’t say I felt any ‘bad vibes’ but it did ‘feel’ different from other burial chambers I have visited.

I returned my hard hat and jumped over the gate to visit the Time Team reconstruction in the next field. It is fenced off so I guess they don’t actually want people to go inside – but there you go. There was certainly no one around to stop me!
The Time Team effort is about a quarter scale and is completely dry.
In fact this ‘tomb’ has a better finish to it than the rough and ready real one.

I would say Mine Howe is a ‘must see’ as it is so different to the other burial tombs on Orkney (or elsewhere for that matter).
There isn’t a massive amount to see and the whole site is a bit ‘rough and ready’ but worth a visit nonetheless.

View from road 8.6.12

The burnt mound is easily seen from the road

The mound is completely covered in grass.

I didn’t stop.

Visited 8.6.12

Unless you knew better you would think this was no more than a very large grass covered sand dune.
It is right next to a house and you can’t miss it.

The nearby toilets came in handy!

Visited 8.6.12

Somehow I was unable to spot this stone.

I thought I was looking in the right but obviously I wasn’t
(Unless it has since fallen down!)

Visited 8.6.12

There is little left of this Broch which is now no more than a 1 metre high mangled mound covered in rough grass.

We parked on the verge and I hopped over the fence for a quick inspection.
Other than several stones sticking out of the grass there is little else to report.

If you didn’t know it was here you would easily drive right past without as much as a look.
Not really worth stopping for.

The weather was still against me so I settled for a ‘drive by’ look.

From the A961 to the south I could see two grass covered mounds.

A visit on a dry day would be in order.

The weather was foul this morning (strong wind and rain) so I had no intention of traipsing across a field and settled to see what I could see from the road – which turned out to be very little.

All I could see from the road was one mound away in the distance

Visited 8.6.12

We parked in the car park right next to the beach and despite being windy the weather was fine.

Karen, Sophie and Dafydd played on the beach while I followed the sign posted path (Aikerskaill road) around the headland to the site of the ruined chapel. It is only a 5 minute walk.

The Souterrain was easy to spot; near the beach and blocked up with brieze blocks and stones.
It looks as though the Souterrain has been exposed due to coastal erosion?

A family of ducks paddled past, battling against the wind – good luck to them!

If you are ever in this area try to also take in a visit to the nearby St Ninian’s church (Hogg-back grave) and the Gloup sea cave – both worth a visit in their own right.

Road side view 8.6.12

The barrow can be easily seen from the road as a large grass covered mound when heading north.
It is behind some farm buildings

Visited 8.6.12

There is room to park opposite a B+B.

The Broch is in a nice loch side location but is now no more than a rough grass covered mound approximately 2 metres high x 50 metres across.
It appears to have been cut through the middle at some point in the past?

Visited 7.6.12

Directions:
Right next to the B9047 on the way to the Hackness Martello Tower (H.S. site)

The remains of the Broch as easily visible from the main road – the other side of a barbed wire fence.
The remains consist of a large grass covered mound – on the shoreline.

Canmore states:
‘A turf covered mound 7ft 9ins in height land side / 30ft in height shore side. The remains cover an area almost half an acre and seem to have been disturbed by random unrecorded excavations’.

Visited 7.6.12

Directions:
Next to the minor road which leads to the lighthouse at Cantick Head.

You can’t miss this as it is a large grass covered mound right next to the road.
The mound has several large stones sticking out of the turf.

Canmore states:
‘This turf covered stony mound is 20m in diameter and 2.5m high. It is substantial enough to contain a modest broch. Some protruding slabs on the outermost fringes of the mound suggest outbuildings’.

Visited 7.6.12

I think I saw this standing stone on the brow of the hill from the minor road to the north.
If it is the stone it is near the fence line.
I didn’t have time to get a closer look as I had a ferry to catch!

Canmore states:
‘The standing stone on the SW shoulder of Gallow Tuag leans heavily towards the north. If vertical it would stand 1.6m high. It rises from a pronounced and circular mound 15m in diameter badly mutilated by quarrying’.

Visited 7.6.12

We drove off the ferry and headed straight for the Dwarfie Stane.
The wind was blowing a gale and the crossing was somewhat bumpy!

The drizzle was coming down and the mountains were shrouded in mist.
As we drove north through Hoy the road climbed and the mist worsened.
I had planned to stop at Betty Corrigall’s grave but drove past it as we couldn’t see it!

We then came off the B9047 and scanned the hillside to try to spot the tomb.
We headed south until we reached the small parking area and peered across the moor to see the path leading to the tomb vanish in the mist.
North Hoy is a very desolate and remote place – a land of peat moorland.
In this area there are no houses, no farms – no signs of habitation at all.

Karen thought we were mad as Dafydd and myself put our waterproofs on and headed out into the gloom.
To say the walk was atmospheric would be an understatement.
The mist swirled around us; one minute we could see perhaps 20 metres ahead – the next 2 metres.
The wooden slats on the walkway were wet and slippery. The ‘path’ then becomes a small stream as we headed higher up the hillside.

Then we saw it.
Peeping out of the mist – then it was gone.
I have to confess I started to get very excited, my pulse quickened – so did my steps.
I encouraged Dafydd on and eventually we reached the tomb.
Needless to say we had the place to ourselves!

Wow – this is fantastic.
The huge lump of rock was bigger than I expected and we both quickly dived inside to get out of the wind and drizzle.
Once inside all was perfectly quiet. Dafydd seemed to be completely at home.

The quality of the workmanship to create this tomb is simply stunning.
It is incredible to think that this was created without metal tools.
The carving of the tomb, the quality of the finish easily compares with the great burial chambers of Orkney. In fact I would say this tomb rates as highly as any other final resting place you would care to think of.

The side chamber with the ‘bed’ and ‘pillow’ is a work of art and a fitting resting place for someone obviously very important.

The weather outside seemed to be getting worse but inside all was well.
I could have stayed here for hours but Dafydd was by now starting to get a bit restless and I was conscious of Karen and Sophie waiting in the car.

We ventured outside and walked around this mighty lump of rock and its equally mighty blocking stone.

I am sure on a clear day the views would be excellent but not today.
Not that I mind at all as I think the swirling mist only added to the experience.
In all the sites I have ever visited I would say this one has been the most atmospheric.
It is certainly one that will always stay fondly in my memory.

This is a truly magical place and I can’t recommend a visit highly enough.
Yes I know it is a long way to travel and yes I know it is in a remote spot.
But even if I had not visited another site on Orkney it would have been worth the cost and effort just to visit the Dwarfie Stane.
If you are at all able please make the effort to visit – you will not be disappointed.

On the back south through Hoy the mist started to lift and this time we could see Betty’s grave from the road.
There is a small parking area and a sign post – the white picket fence had seen better days but was still standing.
I walked over and paid my respects. A very poignant place given Betty’s story.
A small donation box was next to her grave for the upkeep of the grave. I of course made a contribution.

It is strange how two graves in a remote area on a Scottish island; separated in time by thousands of years; could have such a profound affect on me.
I wonder what it all means?

View from the road 6.6.12

All I could make out from the minor road to the north was two slight ‘bumps’ on the horizon.

Canmore states:
‘The remains of 14 barrows, in two distinct groups, composed mainly of earth with some stones visible. The western group are situated on the top of a prominent ridge. The eastern group at the bottom of the same ridge’.

Visited 6.6.12

All that is left to see is a large, low grass mound.
Not worth going out of your way for.

Visited 6.6.12

Directions:
Park in the car park for Skaill Beach – just up the road from Skara Brae.
The Barrows are at the end of a small track directly opposite the car park.

The terrain here is one of ‘lumpy bumpy’ grass covered mounds.
I have no idea which ones are the Barrows?

Canmore states:
‘Only two sandy grass-covered mounds can now be identified with any of those published on the OS 6’’ map. One is 1.8m high and the other 1.2m high’.

Saw these cairns marked on the OS map and thought I would take a look.

Unfortunately the weather had other ideas!
Despite it being 2.00pm the rain was coming down and we had full headlights on!
It was very misty/rainy and to be honest I couldn’t see a thing from the road.

Canmore states:
‘Vestrafiold is a compact group of large burial mounds placed in a prominent location overlooking Skara Brae. The mounds havehad large blocks of stone dumped on them and have been impacted by war buildings’.

Visited 6.6.12

The Barrow is visible from the road as a low mound.

I would put its height at only about 1 metre at most.

It is certainly now looks lower than when last visited.

Visited 6.6.12

This stone is right next to the road and acts as a fence post.

There are many stones like this all over Orkney acting as fence posts.

I am no expert but I don’t know why this one has been listed as prehistoric when clearly most/all of the others are ‘modern’.

Although I am sure Wideord knows more about these things than me (which wouldn’t be hard!)

Visited 6.6.12

The standing stones are in the field next to the church car park.

Access is easy but the rain was coming down so I didn’t hang around long.

The stones are covered in lichen and on a nice day there would be good views to be had – today was not a nice day!

Visited 6.6.12

For a change we all visited this very important site.
I had been nagging Karen for a long time that she simply ‘must’ see Skara Brae.
I think the fact there was a visitor centre with shop and café helped!
(Although these facts did little for my bank balance!)

It goes without say that this is a definite ‘must see’ when visiting Orkney.
I had read so much about it, seen so many photos and heard so much about Skara Brae that it was quite surreal actually being here.

We parked in the large car park (several coaches already here) and walked up to the visitor centre.

As members of CADW we had free entry although I did buy the guide book – something I do at all the places I visit. We first went to watch the film show which I thought was a bit naff and then went outside to see the reconstructed house you can walk around. I thought this was very well done and certainly gives a good idea of how it must have been to live at Skara Brae all those years ago.

We then headed over to the real houses. Luckily the rain had now stopped but it was very windy. The stones you pass giving a time-line for the settlement is a nice touch.

There were a number of people milling around and all were being watched by a member of staff to make sure no-one went inside the houses – although there would be no-one to stop you if you visited after closing time!

I won’t bother to describe the houses as this has been done many times before and I am sure everyone knows what they look like!
All I would reiterate is that the site IS a lot smaller than it looks in photos / on TV.

I originally planned to have a paddle in Skaill Bay but given the weather I chickened out!

It was my OH who picked this summer’s Arran holiday cottage deep in the heart of the Merkland Wood. My preliminary researches confirmed my suspicions – the cist I had unsuccessfully sought in previous years lay somewhere within the cottage’s grounds. Last July I had spent a frustrating couple of hours getting eaten alive by midges and cut and scratched by bracken and rhododendron as I tried to find the cist said by the antiquarians to be “situated on a small eminence” above a burn and described by the OS to be “poorly preserved”.
I parked in the small tarmacked boat ramp and crossed the road to the trackway leading up to 2 cottages at Maol Don. Do not go up this track, instead enter the rhododendron jungle to the left of the cottage track but to the right of the roadside stone wall.
I found a vestigal path which sort of becomes a burn. To the left rises the “small eminence”. This “small eminence” turns out to be a thirty foot cliff whose top is swathed in head-high bracken and rampant rhododendron. As I clambered up the steep crumbling bank I found myself gazing into a dark hole surrounded by mossy stones. I knew I was right on the money. Badger activity six feet below this cist has left it in a bit of a precarious position. This cist is not poorly preserved – indeed it is in great nick – and sits jutting out of the sloping bank above the burn just just below the flat top of the “eminence”. In previous attempts to find this cist I’d been stumbling around on the eminence’s “summit top” among the tick-laden, midge-ridden ferns and shrubs.The landowner’s attempts to hack back the invasive rhododendron has left many ankle breakers and stumps which are real trip hazards in the deep undergrowth. But you don’t need to go there & if you find yourself up there amongst the bracken you have passed the cist.
The cist is complete, the mossed-over capstone is in place, the four side slabs sit vertical and in position. This cist’s dimensions are a bit larger than those described on Canmore, so a part of me wonders if this is the same cist. There are no photographs or sketches of the Merkland cist described on Canmore (or in Balfour’s Book of Arran Vol 1)) to work from, but I am presuming it has to be the same one. This is a very quiet, deep woodland setting for a cist in a fine state of preservation. I stood brushing off midges with the slanting bars of evening sun transforming the wood into a tropical rainforest of rhododendron blooms, green ferns and deep moss with tall natural Scots Pines forming a scented canopy. I got the impression that no-one had visited in a very long time. A very cool resting place.