Latest Fieldnotes

Visited 10.6.12

A bitter-sweet moment. My last site on Orkney before catching the ferry to Shetland.

We parked in the parking area and Karen and Sophie sat in the car whilst myself and Dafydd heading uphill towards the chambered cairn.
The cairn itself is prominent as a grass covered mound surrounded by heather.

Dafydd ran on ahead as I struggled behind.
I was feeling at my worst and my legs felt they were made of lead after visiting Wideford Hill chambered cairn.
We passed a couple of people coming back from the tomb so when we got there we had the place to ourselves.

It was overcast but dry and we had the added bonus of no wind.
There are splendid views from the cairn.

The crawl into the chamber was helped by the flag stone floor which helped keep mud to a minimum.
As with many sites on Orkney the stone construction of the chamber is first class.
Probably because I wasn’t feeling too good I don’t think I fully appreciated this site.
Only on Orkney can you become almost blasé about such magnificent sites.

This is yet another ‘must see’ site – one of very many on these special islands.
I know for most of us it is a long way to travel but it is most certainly worth the effort.
You couldn’t go anywhere else in the UK to have such a rang of magnificent prehistoric monuments.

Thank you Orkney.

Visited 10.6.12

We took the minor road to the top of the hill and parked near to where the road takes a sharp right. From here a ‘path’ can be seen which heads north, across the hill, to the chambered cairn. I didn’t feel up to taking Dafydd with me and I ventured out alone.

The ‘path’ starts fairly flat and it gradually descends down the far side of the hill.
You can see the fenced off tomb from quite a distance.
Although the weather had been mainly dry for a week the ‘path’ was still very muddy in places.
Luckily the weather was again fine although it was a bit windy – not surprising given where I was!

On the way towards the tomb was a wooden gate festooned with what I guess were some sort of woollen ‘offerings’ – teddies, woollen squares, bits of material etc – all very odd.
Somebody had left a name attached to one of the ‘offerings’ – Hegasaer.

Going through the gate I went straight to the H.S. box to get the torch.
Unfortunately the torch was broken (looked like it had been dropped) but luckily I had my head light with me.

I slid the metal hatch back and descended down the ladder into a large puddle of water.
The tomb was a lot larger than I was expecting – particularly given the size of the original entrance.
The stonework was of the high standard I had now come to expect on Orkney – these builders certainly knew what they were doing.
There were lots of names and dates scratched into the stonework.

In terms of location I would say this is the best burial chamber I have ever visited.
The views from the tomb are fantastic and are worth the walk in their own right.

I now had the task of walking back to the car – this time uphill.
Normally this wouldn’t have been a problem but the way I was feeling it felt like I was walking up Mount Kilimanjaro!
I huffed and puffed, stopping more than walking, my legs felt like they had turned to lead.
By the time I got back to the car I wasn’t looking my best!

I was glad I made the effort to see this site as it is most certainly worth the effort.
It is just a pity that I wasn’t feeling too good to perhaps fully appreciate it.

At least it wasn’t raining!!

Viewed 10.6.12

This H.S. site is very easy to access being sign posted off the main road.

As the day wore on I was feeling rougher and rougher but as we were due to catch the night ferry to Shetland I knew this would be my last chance to visit any ‘must see’ sites.

The views from the tomb are good with the Ring of Brodgar, Maes Howe and the Stones of Stenness all visible in the distance.

Dafydd of course was his usual keen self to get inside the tomb and shot off ahead of me.
I dawdled behind as best I could.

As soon as I entered the tomb I could detect a funny smell – I put it down to my imagination.
We first looked at the chambers to the left and then the chambers to the right.
Then I saw it – a putrid, festering fish ‘offering’ left in the last chamber!
Now normally this wouldn’t have bothered me – but not the way I was feeling today.
I scampered back down the entrance as fast as I could and was sick over the fence – not wanting to be sick next to the tomb!

I have seen all sorts of ‘offerings’ over the years – nuts, berries, money, candles etc but never a fish! Did the person who left it not consider the stench it would cause?

Due to this I didn’t spend as much time in the tomb as I would have liked and decided to head for my next site. Dafydd enjoyed telling the story of the fish to his mother!

Visited 10.6.12

This H.S. site is very easy to access being sign posted off the main road.

We parked at the top of the drive to the farm and myself, Dafydd and Sophie walked down towards the farm.

We found the Souterrain easy enough and I carried Sophie down the metal ladder while Dafydd made his own way down. This was Sophie’s first visit to a Souterrain (well, she is only 18 months) and I was unsure how she would react once inside. I needn’t have worried, as like her brother, she didn’t think twice before toddling down the very low passage. In fact it was so low even Dafydd had to duck – Sophie was just able to remain upright.

The roof for the main chamber is supported by four pillars approximately 1.5m tall.
There are 3 small dark alcoves off the main chamber.

On the way back up the ladder Sophie thought it would be good fun to drop the metal grill on Dafydd’s head – luckily it was tied with rope to prevent such things from happening!

Well worth a visit – bring a torch.

Visited 10.6.12

A large grass covered mound, approximately 2.5m high x 25m across

When in this area a visit to the Orkney ice cream parlour is a must.
Sitting in the window eating the delicious ice cream whilst looking over to the Stone of Stenness is an experience not to be missed!

Viewed from road 10.6.12

The stone is easily seen from the road on the brow of a rise.

I would have gone for a closer look but I wasn’t feeling too good.

Visited from atop the mound 10.6.12

Not much to see.
A low grass mound of rough grass approximately 0.5m high.
The field was full of sheep when I visited.

View from road 9.6.12

I spotted 2 Barrows on the brow of the hill near a couple of buildings.

Easily seen from the road as grass covered mounds.

View from road 9.6.12

I could spot 4 Barrows from the road.
Grass covered mounds behind a bungalow.

The Barrows had a herd of cows traipsing all over them!

Visited 9.6.12

A scraggy grass covered low mound easily seen from the minor road to the north.
Although there are good views I saw no point in trying to get past the electric fence.

Viewed from road 9.6.12

Visible as a low mound half way up the hill – at least I think this was the Barrow!

Canmore states:
‘This is a well shaped turf covered Barrow on a conspicuous false crest. It is 12m in diameter and 1.2m high’.

Viewed from road 9.6.12

This Barrow is just about visible from the road as a very low mound covered in rough grass.
It would be easily missed if you weren’t specifically looking for it.

Canmore states:
‘The mound is 35ft in diameter and generally 3ft high, in a prominent position’.

Visited 9.6.12

This is an excellent site and well worth a visit.

The Broch is very well preserved but perhaps the best thing about the site is the preservation of the buildings just outside the Broch. The walls of these are well over head height.

Despite the wind it was a sunny day and once sheltered from the wind inside the Broch it was pleasantly warm. Dafydd, Sophie and myself walked amongst the ruins whilst Karen sat in the car to read her book!

There were quite a few visitors and of the H.S. guides was giving a talk but with the two little ones in tow I didn’t get change to have a listen.

After visiting the Broch we had some time on the beach which we all enjoyed.

Ah, what a beautiful, beautiful site I reckon this to be, quite possibly now my favourite in the Kilmartin area..... and, let’s face it, there are quite a few to choose from. Yeah, Dunadd may have rightly captured the popular imagination when it comes to Argyll hillforts, what with its legendary status and expertly protected ‘footprint’ that tourist punters can try for size.... audience participation is always a sure fire winner. However I think Creag a’ Chapuill beats it hands down in every respect, save that mystical ‘sacred mountain’ profile rising above the River Add. Instead the much larger enclosure, perched high upon this isolated crag, has views to die for – just ensure sure you don’t make that a reality! – bending its metaphorical knee to a sacred ‘hill’ in an altogether different league... the mighty Ben Cruachan

Creag a’ Chapuill is but one – albeit by far the largest, as far as I can tell – of a chain of high, fortified enclosures guarding the northern approach to Kilmartin Glen, overlooking the western end of the wondrous Loch Awe, not forgetting its much smaller consort Loch Ederline, near the small village of Ford. Exquisite scenery, exquisite vibe. Sheer crags to the south make a substantial contribution to both the former and latter, not to mention defensibility. A great dry stone rampart, significant remnants of which still girdle the hillside ‘filling in the gaps’ between natural rocky crags, did the remainder and must have ensured this hillfort was well nigh unassailable before the coming of the Roman war machine. If it ever came this far, that is? Bloody Romans.

Access is still pretty difficult today, although no doubt I made much harder work of it than needed to be the case approaching from the west, what with blundering through trees etc. Well, it looked easy enough upon my old 1:50K OS map. But then again doesn’t it always? Anyway, take the A816 north from Kilmartin and, passing the B840 turn-off to Ford, park in the layby by the entrance to Tibertich, that is on the left. Opposite, an old stone wall meets the road to the right of an old quarry. Follow this upwards along a rough, grassy path-cum-track through a linear break in the forestry, a momentary glimpse of Creag a’Chapuill crowning the skyline above and beyond invoking an involuntary ‘bloody hell’ from this traveller. Now assuming you don’t ‘go walkabout’ the route, following the same line, eventually emerges upon a forestry track, the hillfort nowhere to be seen. Head left here and, at the track terminus, veer right to double back on a parallel course through the trees. If you’re on the money the hillfort will eventually tower above to your right, with a barbed wire-lined drystone wall to left. Clamber up as best you can and simply savour what must be one of Kilmartin’s least known, but most spectacular major sites. Hey, Loch Awe never looked so good.

Visited 12th May 2012

There are some places you just don’t appreciate in one visit, and for me Dyffryn Ardudwy was one. The first time I was here I was a bit disappointed by the built up surroundings of the dolmens. Nearby houses and the school seemed to hem in the site and, along with a slightly unsympathetic restoration, one of the chambers was littered with cans and other detritus which indicated it was a favoured party spot for local youths. My next visit was on a grey and rainy day, leaden Welsh skies seeming to bleach the colour from the surroundings as I huddled for shelter next to the tree which canopied the chambers. So today’s visit was one I made just because we were passing. I’m so glad we did.

Like Kammer we parked in the small cul-de-sac of Bro Arthur just past the school, and walked up the short path to the twin dolmens. On this lovely sunny day the site is transformed. Dappled sunlight bathes the monument, and bluebells rather than rubbish, dot the site. I clamber onto the nearby wall to get a more elevated shot of the monument and it’s as if I’m seeing it with new eyes.

The two dolmens are of a good size, and I take a bit more time to investigate the chambers, noting the strange marks gouged into one of the portal stones of the western chamber, which I hadn’t seen before. The eastern chamber is larger, but in places is shored up by some ugly brickwork.

The oak tree growing here is wonderful, and whilst Ellen spends some time sketching the site I climb onto a low sloping branch which is just right to recline on, and contemplate the monument. Although Dyffryn Ardudwy is only the decimated skeleton of the monument it once was the stones around the perimeter allow you to get a sense of the size the monument would have been when covered by a mound or cairn material. Dyffryn Ardudwy is an enigmatic site, despite the relatively urban location, and slightly dodgy restoration, it’s not quite like anywhere else, and retains a special feeling, made extra special on this sublime afternoon. I feel like I finally ‘get’ Dyffryn Ardudwy now!

Visited 9.6.12

Directions:
As per Redland South but this Chambered Cairn is on the left (west) of the road.

The field was full of cows so I observed the cairn from the safety of the road.

It is no more than a low, heather covered mound – easily visible from the road.

Canmore states:
‘A turf covered Orkney-Cromarty stalled cairn. The centre has been hollowed out. It is oval in shape and the width across the chamber is 32ft. In the centre of the mound are the stumps of 3 stones, they appear to represent the back slab and two divisional stones of the stalled chamber’.

Visited 9.6.12

Directions:
Right next to the minor road which leads to the Broch of Gurness off the A966.
Access is via a quick hop over the fence.

A mangled grass covered mound which has one large stone sticking out of its centre.
Several smaller stones are sticking out of the grass.

Canmore states:
‘This turf covered cairn has been greatly robbed and disturbed by the intrusion of structures of a levelled farmstead. It possibly measured 27m in length. Cairn debris remains to a height of 0.6m’.

Visited 9.6.12

Rough grass covered mound – viewed from road.

Canmore states:
‘A turf covered Orkney-Cromarty type stalled cairn. It has been greatly robbed and ruined but up to 3ft of cairn material remains’

Visited 9.6.12

Couldn’t see a thing – ploughed out?

Canmore states:
‘A turf covered barrow 0.5m high and mainly of earth and small stones, situated on near ground level’.

Visited 9.6.12

Couldn’t see a thing – ploughed out?

Canmore states:
‘A turf covered barrow of earth and small stones 0.5m high x 9m in diameter’.

Visited 9.6.12

No more than a low grass covered mound.
It you weren’t looking for it specifically you wouldn’t know it was there.
Not one to recommend.

Canmore states:
‘The remains of a probable barrow, grass covered, composed mainly of earth, some 70m north of the main road. It measures 9m in diameter and 0.7m in height’.

Visited 9.6.12

Directions:
Next to a minor road off the A986 near Hourston

A large grass covered mound easily seen next to the road.
The mound is approximately 1.5m high x 20m across.

There is a depression in the centre of the mound with several stones sticking out.

Canmore states:
‘The remains of a broch which was excavated in 1935. Parts of massive walling and passageways were exposed but no trace of this walling can now be seen’.

Visited 9.6.12

These stones are easy enough to spot from the minor road to the north.
They are on a slight mound, the other side of a barbed wire fence.

Access to the field is via a metal field gate.

Due too not feeling well I settled for a view from the road.

I think I saw this small standing stone near the loch from the roadside; although I am not 100% sure.

My 200th site added (never thought that would happen!)

I awoke this morning suffering from my second stomach bug of the holiday, which is strange given than I am rarely ill. However, as this was my final full day on Orkney I was determined to battle on and visit as many of the sites on my itinerary as possible.

Looking at the O/S map it looked as though these Barrows would be easy enough to spot from the road but I couldn’t see any.
I certainly didn’t feel up to hiking across fields so left it at that.

Canmore states:
‘A scattered group of 11 mounds varying from 17 to 30ft in diameter and up to 3ft in height – 1946.
Of the 11 barrows described be the Commission, one has disappeared and the others have been reduced by ploughing’.