Latest Fieldnotes

We’ve all been to an ancient site and left with a sinking heart because of litter or the vandalism of past excavations. Today I almost wept – had to go to Stroud in Gloucestershire, the sun came out so thought to make a day of it and walk up to Painswick Beacon. A place I’ve visited once before three years and, although then the whole of Painswick Hill seems to be a golf course, it seemed peaceful and the views across the Severn Valley are pretty amazing.

Today I discovered part of the hillside is missing – a great yawning chunk of hillside gone. The noise from the diggers moving great lumps of Cotswold stone around destroyed any peace. Cotswold stone has always been quarried but I’ve never seen it done on such a destructive and industrial scale.
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Painswick hillfort and beacon are still intact, the views still terrific, a kestrel still hovered but what a travesty.

The site is a short stroll along the road from the main Clava Cairns, access is along a neat path from Milton of Clava, where the road bends sharply southeast.

The most obvious marker is the lovely “playing card” slab, all that remains of the circle that once surrounded the cairn here. The cairn itself is disturbed and much of the material has been rather scattered, but a low mound remains, still pretty substantial. It lacks the special atmosphere of its near neighbours, and the river is unseen and unheard in spite of its proximity. The valley location is very pleasant and peaceful though, and the site probably sees substantially fewer visitors than the more famous site so close by. Certainly worthy of the very minimal effort required.

Instead we return along the road towards the main complex, where a gate leads into the field in which Mains of Clava SW can be found. Previously dismissed as a hut circle, this site has now been reinterpreted as a ring cairn after excavation. We find a decent sized but rather overgrown mound, with some exposed stonework. Obviously nowhere near as impressive as the main enclosure, but this is still a very decent addition to the group.

We head back to the Mains of Clava standing stone that we’d bypassed on our way earlier. It stands in a field right next to the road, so unless there are animals about, access is as straightforward as can be. The current OS 1/25000 shows a “Chambered Cairn” to the NE of the standing stone, but all we can see is an overgrown area with some possible field clearance. [Post-visit check of Canmore reveals nothing either.]

The stone itself is rather fine, at least six feet tall and very solid and chunky. It appears to serve as a rubbing stone, but there are no animals in the field today.

We have a quick look over the wall in the vicinity of the Mains of Clava SE site, but it all looks very overgrown and the wall in between isn’t particularly inviting for climbing, so we decline a closer look.

As soon as we’re under the trees the incredible atmosphere of this place hits home. Under a canopy of leaves turning slowly from green to autumn shades, the NE cairn is the nearest to us, surrounded by an impressive ring of upright stones. It’s almost too much for the brain to compute, the size of the cairn, the exquisite choice of stones for the circle. And then the eye relays the information that there’s two more of the damn things, right THERE. I’ll be honest – nothing I’d read about the site, no photos I’d seen, really prepared me for its raw, in the flesh, splendour. And it’s all ours for the moment, no coachloads of disinterested gawpers, just us in this magical glade. By now I’m wearing the stupidest grin ever.

Walking around the NE cairn reveals the deliberate grading of the stones, up to a slender monster all of 9 feet. Both of us walk around the circle for a while, neither somehow quite ready for the cairn itself yet. During our circuits, we admire the amazing cup-marked kerb stone. What a beautiful thing. At length we head into the chamber. It’s a little difficult to imagine this open passage as a low “creep”, in truth. But the stonework inside the chamber is wonderful and the feeling of seclusion, already heightened in the quiet of the glade, is complete in here. When we re-emerge we spend another 10 minutes or so re-circling the circle. I can’t get enough of this.

The central cairn is very different. The mound is lower and there is no passage into it (and apparently never was). Although its surrounding circle is similar to that around the NE cairn, it is connected to the cairn by a series of low rubble “spokes”, apparently at random but no doubt anything but. The effect is striking, if typically unfathomable, at least to me.

Tucked away on the edge of the site near the central cairn is a lovely kerb or ring cairn, consisting of an open ring of small boulders, one decorated with cup-marks and a cup and ring. I like this little ring very much, although it feels almost like a whimsy in the company of the three main cairns and circles.

The first thing that attracts my attention at the SW cairn is the rather unusual “double” stone in the surrounding circle. It looks like a single stone that has been split vertically and then prised apart, leaving an enigmatic upright V shape. There is so much to ponder over at this complex. The cairn itself is very fine, sitting on an even wider low mound. As well as the “double” stone, the uprights in the surrounding circle match the careful choice of those around the other two cairns. As with the NE cairn, we spend a while circling, taking in the stone over the road, sadly divorced from its family, and the couple built into the fence/wall.

While we are here a couple on bikes arrive at the other end of the site, the only people we’ve seen so far. We head into the interior of the SW cairn, noting both the lovely cup-marked stone just inside the chamber and another stone built into the walling that appears to have a single cup-mark (although I’m not aware of reading about that). I could sit and look at the different stone textures for hours, but at length we decide to head back around the site again before checking out some of the neighbouring monuments. Apart from the cyclists, we’ve had the whole place to ourselves for over an hour.

I can’t put into words how deeply this place has impressed me. I hope we can come back again, although perhaps the perfect visit won’t be easily repeated.

I couldn’t see any sign of the cairn – ploughed out?

Canmore states:
‘A cairn, mainly of stones, 29ft in diameter and 2ft high. Situated in a pasture field’. 1967

Visited 6.6.12

No sign of them! Perhaps they have been ploughed out?

Canmore states:
‘A group of 5 mounds and varying between 19 and 38ft in diameter and from ‘mere foundations’ to almost 5ft in height’ RCAHMS 1946.

Visited 6.6.12

A slight mound which is easy to miss although it is visible from the road.

Canmore states:
‘A well shaped turf covered barrow 0.5m high and 8m in diameter, situated on a slight eminence. A small excavation trench is visible in the east side’.

Visited 6.6.12

I parked at the locked metal gate which gives access to a track which leads to the Barrow.
I jumped over the gate and walked up for a closer look.

The Barrow is now no more than a mangled grass covered mound.

Canmore states:
‘A turf covered mound of earth and stones, 1m high, truncated by quarrying and mutilated by the addition of a WD gun post. It is too indefinite to classify but its conspicuous position on a broad back low eminence suggests a barrow’.

Visited 6.6.12

Three Barrows can be seen from the road as low grass covered mounds.
All three are approximately 0.5 metre high.

Canmore states:
‘Only the remains of 3 of the 9 barrows shown on the 1903 OS map can still be seen, situated in conspicuous positions on the top and gentle slopes of a low rise’.

Visited 6.6.12

The Barrow sits in an undulating field which was in crop when I visited.
I was unable to spot the Barrow.

Canmore states:
‘A barrow of earth and small stones, recently spread by ploughing, and now measuring 9m in diameter and 0.4m high’.

Viewed from road 6.6.12

Easily seen from road – looks like a scratching post to me.

Viewed from the roadside 6.6.12

Just north of the hamlet of Twatt, either side of the A986.

Looking north, the Barrow on the left hand side of the road is about 1 metre high x 8 metres across.
The 3 Barrows on the right hand side of the road are between 0.5 metre and 1 metre in height and between 5 metres and 10 metres across.

Nowhere near as ruinous as I’d anticipated, Dun Grugaig is – in my opinion – the most rewarding of the trio of ancient defensive structures to be found within the wondrous confines of Glen Beag.

Tearing myself away from the magnetic attraction of the excellent Balvraid chambered cairn, I venture once again into the merciless glare of the sun. The broch is signposted, a DIY placard indicating the route to be taken along the rough track heading approach south-east beside the Abhaim a’ Ghlinne Bhig. It is not far, a 1/4 mile or so from the buildings at Balvraid, I guess... look for the birch covered crag, above and to the right (south) upon fording the stream which flows towards the aforementioned river from the Coire nan Caorach.

Not a true broch, Dun Grugaig possesses a semi-circular ground plan, therefore differing from its much more famous, distinctly circular neighbours (Dun Telve and Dun Troddan), utilising a steep ravine falling to the river for its western defence. Truly, no more was needed.... that much is obvious as I teeter upon the edge, the presence of gurgling water just discernable far below. Consequently the setting of the enclosure is far more dramatic than either of the other two sites, thus engendering a far superior vibe. The archaeology is substantial, too, the drystone walling rising to an impressive height, particularly facing the original approach to the approx south-east, where I reckon additional, outer defences remain in situ beyond. What’s more a gallery can still be seen within the inner and outer walls of the defences. Always a good thing.

The proximity to water does have its drawbacks, however. Yeah, the ancient defenders may now be long gone from Dun Grugaig.... but not so the terrible midge which begins to demand evasive action from the visitor. However the fort occupies such an idyllic position within this landscape that such discomforts must surely be bourne in good heart?

Visited 6.6.12

This is a huge stone very close to the road so you can’t really miss it.

We parked on the verge and I went over for a close up look.

As I was standing next to the stone when the local farmer pulled up in his tractor.
‘Want to buy the stone?’ he asked in I assume a joking manner.
‘No thanks’; I replied ‘It won’t fit on the roof rack’
‘Nay bother’ says he and off he tootled back to the farm!

You would need a seriously large vehicle to transport this 4 metre high monster.
The stone was covered in that ‘hairy’ lichen I have seen so much of.

Certainly worth a visit when in the area.

Visited 6.6.12

This large grass covered mound is easily seen on the way to the Brough of Birsay.
It is behind a wall but can still be seen from the road as you approach from the east.

There are lots of stones sticking out of the grass mound.

Visited 6.6.12

Although this was day 14 of our holiday it was our first experience of rain!
Because of this I decided against a hike across the field s for a close-up look and used my binoculars instead.

A spotted two stones, each about 1 metre in height, standing next to each other.

I assume these are the standing stones as I couldn’t see any others through the misty rain.

Viewed from afar 5.6.12

I didn’t have time to go and have a proper look at this Broch but it is easily visible from Midhowe Broch as a circular stone feature.

Canmore states:
‘North Howe, the scant remains of a broch marked by a grassy mound c.17.0m in diameter and 2.5m maximum height, with traces of the outer wall face visible for a length of about 12.0m around the NW arc. There are no definite traces of outbuildings but the uneven ground in the vicinity is suggestive of a secondary settlement‘

Visited 5.6.12

Dafydd was asleep so for a change I just took Sophie with me; which seemed a good idea at the time but as it turned out perhaps it wasn’t!

I picked Sophie up and we headed down hill across the fields to the huge ‘barn’ housing the equally huge chambered cairn.
A farmer was out muck-spreading which added to the ‘experience’.

As we arrived a couple of people were just leaving so we had the place to ourselves.
Although I had seen many photos of this site it is not until you are here that you can actually fully appreciate how big it is – it is massive!

It was a bit odd at first to be able to walk up above the tomb and look down into it but it does provide a very good view.

The green lichen which I had seen on the stones in similarly covered sites was also present here.

After a good look around it was time to head back to the car. However, this is when I realised it was not such a good idea to have brought Sophie as I was completely knackered by the time I had walked back up the hill and my legs had turned to lead – I must be getting old!

This is another of the many ‘must see’ sites on Rousay.
If you are coming to Orkney you really need to try to visit Rousay –it is a special place.

Visited 5.6.12

Myself and Sophie wandered around the Broch as part of our visit to the nearby Chambered Cairn.

The Broch is pretty well preserved although a fair bit of it is held together with bolts and metal bars!
You can certainly get a good feel of how people would have lived inside these structures and how the Broch was constructed.

This Broch is the best I visited on Orkney but I have to say it is not as good as a couple I visited on Shetland – but that’s another story!

Viewed from afar 5.6.12

The remains of the Crannog are easily seen from the B9064 as a grass covered island

Canmore states:
‘This large island site was examined; it supports a large walled enclosure of unknown date, which is divided into two by a cross wall. The larger of the two enclosures is completely overgrown by salmon berry undergrowth and cannot be accessed. The smaller enclosure is less overgrown but still had a significant amount of undergrowth when examined.
The water around the island was snorkelled. The edge of the island had a largely artificial appearance due to the stones from which it is formed. Mostly they are the common slabs from the area, and there was no evidence of them having been systematically laid underwater. However, around the edge of the island, just above the water, there are places where walling could be recognised and it is likely that many of the slabs in the water have fallen from this possible revetment. It was difficult to distinguish in most places where the stones met the loch bed silts as there was a substantial cover of weeds growing on the loch bottom.
The one area where stones could be seen in situ was the remains of a substantial causeway leading to the shore on the W side of the loch. This is very similar in appearance to the causeway noted in the Loch of Stenness and is made up of large stone slabs. It stops just before it reaches the present shore. The loch has a dam on the E side leading to the nearby sea, and the loch level is higher now than in the past. Aerial photographs, not available until after the present underwater survey had been carried out, show a number of features in the shallow water along the shore where the causeway joins it. Although this area was crossed by the team during the survey, there was no obvious evidence of the features and they may now be buried under loch bed silts‘
N Dixon and B Forbes 2004

I spotted 2 piles of stones from the road although I do not know if these are the cairns?
The fields slope down towards the sea.

Canmore states:
‘These three mounds are situated 260 m NW of the former farmstead of Whoom in boggy ground at the head of a small hillside valley. They were excavated by Grant (W G Grant 1937) in 1936.
The northernmost mound (’A’ – Grant no 6) measured about 4.5 m in diameter and is still 1 m in height; it contained a cist (see plan) which was found to be empty.
Mound ‘B’ (Grant no 7) measured 7 m in diameter and 1.2 m in height; Grant revealed a cist which contained a club-like stone implement.
The third cairn (’C’ – Grant no 8) lay about 40 m to the S; it was 5.5 m in diameter and 0.3 m in height. It covered a cist containing a steatite urn with a cremation, three other steatite objects (suggested by Grant to be amulets) and ‘cramp’. The cist, normally waterlogged, can still be seen. The finds are in the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland (NMAS) (Accession nos: EQ 438-40). (PSAS 1935). Situated on the summit of a rocky ridge about 100 m NNW of mound ‘A’ there is a further possible example measuring about 2 m in diameter and 0.5 m high (previously un-noted).
Visited by R G Lamb 1980.
RCAHMS 1982; RCAHMS 1946.

When seen in 1972, these mounds were described as being turf-covered, with evidence of central excavations. They appeared to have a content of earth with some stone.
Surveyed at 1:2500.
Visited by OS(AA) 12 October 1972.‘

I thought these cairns would be easy enough to spot from the road as the land slopes down towards the sea but despite using my binoculars I couldn’t locate them.

Canmore states:
‘These two mounds are situated a short distance SW of the ruined farmstead of Upper Quandal; they were excavated by Grant in 1936.
W G Grant 1937.

Mound ‘A’ was too spread to be measured accurately, but was at least 0.6 m high and covered a cist containing cremated bone and ‘cramp’ The site is now a small green knoll with a hollow centre (RCAHMS 1982).
Mound ‘B’, 27 m NE of ‘A’, had been opened prior to Grant’s excavation; it measures about 8 m in diameter (RCAHMS 1982). A central cist contained cremated bones, a flint scraper and fragments of pottery, now in the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland (NMAS, Accession no: EA 215). A perforated stone said to be from this mound is also in the NMAS (EQ 441). (PSAS 1935 Donations). There is still an upright slab in the centre of the mound.
Visited by R G Lamb 1980.‘

Visited 5.6.12

Ever since reading Moth’s exciting field notes I just had to make this tomb a priority visit
All I can say is ‘Wow!’ and echo Moth’s comments – what a fantastic place to visit.

I was a bid worried about finding the tomb or getting access to it but in the end it was all very straight forward.

We parked next to the phone box and I walked up the farm drive while the others stayed in the car. I didn’t want to ‘risk’ taking Dafydd with me on this one. Walk up the drive until you see a gap in the stone wall on your right. All you then need to do is walk a short distance across an overgrown ‘scrubby’ field. Luckily the small stream you have to cross had dried up so that wasn’t a problem. The tomb is not obvious from the road but it is as you get closer.

The entrance to the tomb was clear of vegetation and (fortunately) the mud dried hard.
A large stone is used as the doorway lintel.

I lay on my belly and ‘commando crawled’ my way inside. I was so excited.
I spot some rather unpleasant animal droppings on the floor – I hope no one is at home!
Once you have crawled about 6 metres into the tomb the passage gets a bit higher and you can then waddle into the main chamber.
The ceiling is now a mighty 4 metres above your head.
Like the TARDIS is does indeed seem bigger on the inside.

Notes written from inside the chamber:
I have left the warm Orcadian sunshine behind me and I stand here in the darkness and cool of this scared site. The bright sunshine lures me outside but it is here I want to be.
I shine my light high up onto the roof and along both sides of the narrow passage way.
I have never been into a tomb this shaped before and it reminded me very much of being inside the walls of a Broch.

Two tall upright stones stand approximately 2 metres tall.
I count 5 supporting ‘bracing’ stones used to support the walls – just like a Broch.
Several large stones are used to cap the ceiling

I also count 4 small side chambers / recesses which presumably held the bones?
1 – A small alcove on my left, full of loose masonry
2 – Another small chamber on my left, part blocked with masonry.
3 – Behind me a sealed off chamber with a ‘shelf’ – a small gap allows me to shine my torch into the chamber.
4 – Standing on the chest high ‘shelf’ I look into an alcove on my right.

I decide to turn the light off and sit on the ‘shelf’ in silent contemplation.
You can ‘feel’ the atmosphere of the place and perhaps ever so slightly be in touch with the ancients.

This is a truly wondrous site to visit.
Not only is it so different to any other tomb I have visited it; when crawling up the passage it does feel like you are the first person to discover the site. A real ‘rough and ready’ place.
No easy access or carefully cleaned out chambers here.
No sign posts, information boards or coach loads of visitors.
This is how it must have felt when visiting burial chambers 100 years ago.

It was time to return to the others in the car – I could have stayed a lot longer than I did.
Before I crawled back out along the passage I left a coin ‘offering’ in a gap in the stones.
This is not something that I normally do and I can offer no logical reason why I did other than it ‘felt’ like the right thing to do – make of that what you will.

Of all the very many sites I visited during my stay in the Western Isles, Orkney and Shetland this would be in my top 3 – along with watching the sun rise from the Callanish stones and being inside the Dwarfie Stane on Hoy.

In terms of sheer excitement – this is probably the best site I have ever visited.

If you are fairly nimble I would recommend you make this a ‘must see’ site when on Rousay.
(Wear old clothes if it is wet – you are going to get muddy!)

All that can be seen is a small rough grass covered paddock which has a mound in it.

Canmore states:
‘A grass-covered mound, 40 ft by 35 ft and 3 ft high, stands on a shelf in sloping ground between Westness house (HY 383 289) and the public road, about 25 yds from the latter and 250 yds from the Bay of Westness, about 100 ft above sea-level.
Excavations in 1933 by J.G.Callander and Grant showed that the mound was of earth with small stones with, at the centre, an irregular sub-oval chamber, 8 ft 9 ins long by 6 ft 11 ins wide.
The NE corner had been torn out by an unrecorded excavation although a small section indicated the building line. There was no sign of an entrance passage or of corbelling or roof supports. A few small flags set in the floor suggested a bed-or hearth-like arrangement, 4 ft long by 2 ft 9 ins broad. There is a small built recess in the NW angle and the remains of a larger one at the opposite end.
The only relics discovered, burnt human bone and charcoal, suggest that the structure was sepulchral.
W G Grant 1934; RCAHMS 1946.

This turf-covered mound, at HY 3840 2898, is as described above. It is hollowed in the centre but there is no sign of the internal structure.
Surveyed at 1/2500.
Visited by OS (RL) 10 June 1967.‘