After aborting a visit in rain and mist last year, which would have been via the easier approach from the south (see Gladman's fieldnotes), some winter sun and a good dusting of snow tempted me to try again. Getting off the train at Abergavenny, Blorenge fills the view to the south, a huge flat-topped bulk. The approach, via Llanfoist, starts at about 50m above sea level and then involves a steeply climbing footpath, under the Monmouthshire and Brecon canal, to Cwm Craf. The snow line started here today (20.2.2010). From here footpaths encircle the mountain in a few directions, and I took the bridleway west around the northern shoulder. Here you are at about 350m, and an amazing vista opens out with every step. Behind is the distinctive Skirrid, to the right the Sugar Loaf, with the highest Black Mountains peak behind it, while over to the west the Brecons start to unfold. This is spectacular countryside. The summit itself remains invisible until you are practically up on it (it took me a determined two hours from Abergavenny station, through shin-deep snow, so it's not too far to come). The massive cairn sits on the top of a fairly flat plateau, with the gentler ground sloping away to the south. Next to it are a trig point and an unsightly walker's cairn, no doubt robbed from the monument itself.
The views are terrific. Only the top of the Skirrid is now visible, the Sugar Loaf looks to be on a level with this cairn (it's actually a bit higher), to the west the white peaks of Pen-y-Fan and the Brecons Horsehoe are visible. To the south you can see the cairns of Carn y Defaid and to the south-west Coety Mountain. A light aircraft flew past below me. An amazing spot on such a cold, clear day. And I've finally stood on top of my first Black Mountain (it's taken me long enough!).
Leaving to the south, it's a relatively short walk to Blaenavon over much more gradual slopes. Woo-hoo!
Although not only lower, but far less shapely than the Sugar Loaf (Mynydd Pen-y-fal), its elegant neighbour across the valley, the sprawling South Walian mountain known as Blorenge nevertheless possesses something of great value that its illustrious rival does not - a stonking great Bronze Age burial cairn at its summit!
Despite being sited at an altitude not that far short of 2000ft, it's also pretty easy to visit, the B4246 from Govilon crossing the western shoulder of the peak before descending towards Blaenavon, one of the cradles of Welsh industry, or so I'm told. A short diversion towards prominent radio aerials brings the traveller to The 'Foxhunter' carpark, so named since the eponymous racehorse is apparently buried nearby.
But is a burial site of a different type that the Mam Cymru and I have come to see today - that of what must surely have been a Bronze Age chieftain or other 'Big Man'. The conditions are appalling, the wind so powerful it takes all of my strength just to open the car door, the rain coming in correspondingly violent bursts. Nevertheless the path (to the approx NE) is clear and easy, if more resembling a flowing stream today. So, after helping a bloke with no shoes bump-start his van (kicked out by his wife, perhaps?) we follow said path-cum-stream to the summit.
Reaching the summit we are blown away.... not only by the massive monument and superb views, but also in a quite literal sense. Duh, it's windy! The cairn is a full 15m by 2m high according to Coflein, although it would appear its crafty builders utilised the shape of the mountain's summit to cut down on the volume of stones required to achieve the desired effect. There's also the remnants of a possible cist within, which is always good to see. Bonus! Having said that, a head first close-up view, courtesy of the wind, is probably best avoided, come to think of it.
As previously mentioned, Sugar Loaf sits across the valley, acting as appropriately 'rainbow-ed' foreground for the sweeping be-cairned summits and ridges of The Black Mountains, the little hillfort of Crug Hywell clearly visible above Crickhowell. Several Neolithic tombs grace the landscape, out of sight but not out of mind, as they say, not to mention Norman castles, reminders of a more war-like age. Hell, I like Wales.........
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Posted by thesweetcheat
Posted by GLADMAN
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