
Some of the flint nodules which make up the big barrow.
Some of the flint nodules which make up the big barrow.
Camping at East Dean a few weeks back I noticed on our OS map a small collection of barrows nearby just off a trackway. One of them was evidently bigger than the others as the symbol for it was a star with a surrounding dotted line. Intrigued we set off into the woods, the setting sun behind us.
Waltham Down barrow cemetery sits on the edge of the South Downs near East Dean, consisting of an arc of four reasonably large barrows and one particularly large mound. They’re quite well hidden in the deciduous forest there and it’s quite magical as you wander through and one by one they’re presented to you, but the trees were only planted just after World War Two, so it may have been quite open originally and easily seen, not too dissimilar to the relatively close ‘Devil’s Jumps’ site further West just off the South Downs Way. The largest barrow in the group is slightly isolated from the other four and has been dug into at some time and almost hollowed out, giving it the appearance of a sleeping volcano. Still standing over 2m in height it appears to be unusually constructed of flint nodules, more like a cairn than a barrow, as most barrows in this area are chalk rubble and earth constructions. We wandered around for a while and followed a sort of fossilised cart track through the woods until we came out into the opening overlooking Heath Hill, then retraced our steps through the woods into the dying rays of the setting sun.
Panorama of Stagsbury Hill. Originally a Bronze Age barrow cemetery and latterly a Medieval rabbit warren which re-used the barrows as pillow mounds.
You can just about make out a small ditch and bank here which made me think I’d come across a small Iron Age enclosure at first, but apparently this was a later addition and probably supported a fence to contain the rabbits.
Difficult to make out, but this is one of the more prominent barrows on the hill top with a view of Furzley beyond.
The largest of 3 barrows South West of Stagsbury Hill. This is quite a large mound and probably not used as a Medieval pillow mound as far as I could tell and also retains its ditch, just.
Looking South West. A bit scarred from this position.
Stagsbury Hill, field system and local pony club!
Two mutilated barrows beyond Stagsbury Hill.
I love it when barrows have names even if it probably dates back only as far as the middle ages and was maybe a practice target for archers. Quite well preserved and about 2m high and 5-6m across. The structure which once stood on top has now gone and just a few scattered bricks remain, possibly consumed by rabbits.
Like a small island in a sea of green grass.
Still quite a pronounced ditch around it which generally fills up with water in the Winter.
Interesting stone alignment next to it! Actually It’s probably something to do with the nearby former RAF Stoney Cross airfield as was the brick structure that’s now gone from the top.
Wandering in Wandlebury! This is the only way to see the fort. Due to the thick vegetation (mostly yew), it’s all but invisible from a distance, but it’s quite a good size and takes about half an hour to stroll around.
The stable building is all that remains from the original building within the fort. Viewed from the bank and (slightly cleared) ditch.
Battlesbury, field systems and Middle Hill viewed from Scratchbury.
The largest bowl barrow on the hill with one of those archaeological star sign thingammies on top.
Looking West along the Southern ramparts with Cley Hill just visible on the left.
The impressive earthworks (and field systems) of Battlesbury viewed from the equally magnificent ramparts of nearby Scratchbury.
Aerial view with Warminster off to the left. Didn’t actually get to climb up it as we were running out of light, energy and drone battery. Impressed nonetheless.
Panoramic aerial view looking vaguely Northwards.
At the Southern end of the hill fort with a great view across the valley towards Mere.
Standing on the innermost earthwork of the hill fort. The distance between the three earthworks is quite unusual you’d be pushed to call the spaces in between ‘ditches’.
The largest BA barrow on the hill next to the NCE.
Two of the smaller barrows adjacent to the NCE and to a bit of quarrying.
The faint ring of the causewayed enclosure visible to the left and foreground with three BA barrows external to it.
4000 years of continual usage. The Neolithic causewayed enclosure to the North followed by a Bronze Age barrow, an Iron Age cross dyke and the IA hill fort to the South.
The earthworks at the Southern end of Whitesheet Hill. The saucer-like barrow in the centre of the fort might well be relatively modern.
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Scrub clearance reveals the extent to which the perimeter earthworks have been mauled and diminished over the centuries.
Looking SE from the SE corner of the enclosure. The huge ridge dyke is hidden within the trees and bushes on the left in the distance.
The (recently cleared) enclosure, known as St. George’s Church yard on East Hill.
I called here on my way to my parents near Swindon and hadn’t been here for more than 20 years prior to this. It’s very easy to locate owing to the Lansdowne Monument, a 38m stone obelisk on Cherhill Down visible from both the A4 and the A361. Because of its proximity to Avebury, Silbury Hill, West Kennet Long Barrow, et al., the area is littered with sites from the Neolithic to the Iron Age and also includes more recent works like the white horse cut in 1780. I parked at the run off East of the hill fort in what must have been the Old Bath Road before it was metalled and straightened somewhat and made my way past the gallops and up towards the top of the Down. The path isn’t very obvious from this direction, but you do get to see a lot of earthworks which may, or may not, be connected with the hill fort. Some may be hut circles or animal pens, others might be dew ponds or slightly unambitious chalk quarries. Reaching the South East corner (it’s not round!) of the hill fort you get great views of the surrounding hills to the South and West including the linear Bronze Age barrow groups on Morgans Hill and also an impression of the scale of the mighty banks and ditches of the fort itself. Early evening is almost always the best time to visit these kind of sites, particularly if you have low raking sunlight. It brings out the best definition and colour in the landscape and makes it almost heartbreakingly beautiful and, for me, tinged with nostalgia. Moving around the earthworks in a clockwise direction you come past the Lansdowne Monument and get a good view of the long barrow, the oldest element in the vicinity, standing on a slight promontory just below it. By this time it’s becoming clear that the Western horizon is filling with rain clouds and so I head North East again taking in the white horse and then exit via the hill fort’s Eastern opening descending back towards the A4. As you get to the bottom of this track you’ll notice a fine barrow in the corner of a field (Cherhill 4 – not very romantic is it?) and if you turn right you’re back on the Old Bath Road track which is where the parking place is. By now the weather was going into overdrive and though the torrential downpour I’d been anticipating hadn’t yet materialised, the sky was now leaden and a fantastic rainbow appeared at the end of the track urging me onwards. Before you get to the parking spot there’s another large barrow right beside the track which, although I didn’t notice at the time, has a World War Two bunker built into the North side of it. This makes strategic sense in terms of the now disused Yatesbury airfield just the other side of the A4. I reach my car just in the nick of time as the raindrops descend. What luck! What weather! What poetry!
Earthworks on the South Western side. One of the Morgans Hill linear BA barrow groups just visible in the distance to the left.
A tremendous amount of upheaval in the landscape here.
The view down to the long barrow, slightly left of centre.
A modern (1780!) interloper on this ancient landscape.
The Eastern opening in the fort’s defences.
Approaching the barrow along the Old Bath Road track.
There’s more to this than meets the eye.