This is a lovely ancient site to visit. Visited on 31st May as part of our little road trip around the south west side of Anglesey. Down a quiet, narrow lane with abundant wild flowers growing along the banks. The day was starting to warm up after a chilly start and it was a real pleasure to walk over to Bodowyr – the dolmen itself stands within protective railings but with the magnificent views towards Snowdonia, the railings melted away.
Wonderful!
This was the first site we visited on Sunday 31/5/2015. Easy access via quite a long path up to the burial chamber – to get to it involves crossing a small bridge and river, there was something about this that reminded me of Stoney Littleton. Anyway, suffice to say it lived up to expectations in spite of being extensively restored. The stone pillar was of course an enigma; the mysterious stone with spirals is in the National Museum of Wales in Cardiff – a day trip I can make from home soon to take a closer look (see photo of information board).
The midsummer solstice solar alignment is well documented on the interpretation board over in the small car park.
I felt bit intimidated by the organisation of the National Trust on the Sunday morning we visited Plas Newydd – we didn’t particularly want to go into the house a it was shaping up to be a pleasant day weather-wise so viewed the dolmen from the top of the slope is has restricted access to the public. At that time we didn’t realise that unless you view Plas Newydd Burial Chamber from fairly close up it is not easy to see how splendid it is, certainly not from the path at the top of the slope where you can only see the top of it.
We went back the next day as the weather had turned wet and windy, it seemed like a good opportunity to have a look around the house. This time we asked to use the little motorised buggy that ferries less mobile people down to the house around the restricted access area. Nothing wrong with our mobility but it was a way of getting closer to the burial chamber. The driver of the buggy told us that the NT doesn’t encourage people to get close to it but will allow if you specifically ask. He kindly pulled up in front of the dolmen so I could take a photograph. By this time the rain was lashing down and I had rain on the lens – so my photos are not brilliant but they do show there are actually two dolmens – a large on and a small one. The smaller one is virtually hidden from view if you look from the top of the slope. Obviously, they were there a few thousand years before the house and would have looked out over the Menai Straights towards Snowdonia.
In spite of the rain, we didn’t stay long in the house ... that wasn’t what I come for.
Not sure where to start with my trip to Anglesey and North Wales so decided on this enigmatic small burial chamber. We went to Plas Newydd with the prime intention of seeing the dolmen on the front lawn of the house. It was a pleasant day so we decided to walk around the extensive grounds starting with the arboretum. I had given up on seeing Bryn-yr-Hen-Bobl as no one I asked seemed to know what I was talking about – on the way back from the wooded area I spotted it in a field adjacent to the Plas Newydd Gardens. We walked up to a locked gate and, feeling furtive, climbed over. The burial chamber itself is protected by a wooden fence and locked gate but easy to see it clearly over the wooden fence. Very satisfying to spot it and manage a quick visit.
Starting at Westbury White Horse today walked to Wellhead Springs which are approximately two miles from the White Horse along a well used bridleway. We didn’t see them at first but when they came into view it was – yes, a magical moment. They are in a deep wooded combe which was a bit slippery to get down (but fun too). The water from the springs looked clear and clean though I didn’t sample it. A dog walker told us that up until a few days earlier the place had been covered in litter. A solitary man had been down there over several days and cleared it all away with a wheelbarrow. What an unsung hero whoever he is.
Walking back uphill to a footpath which merges into the Wessex Ridgeway we came upon a massive hole in the side of the hill. A chalk quarry belonging to the concrete works in Westbury. I always wonder how this vandalism is allowed to occur to one place. I guess its just accepted in the name of commerce. So glad this hasn’t been done elsewhere (to my knowledge anyway) on the wonderful chalk downs of Wiltshire.
On a walking break for a few days in Devon last week. Spent a day (it was never going to be long enough) travelling to and walking on Dartmoor. First walk was to Wistman’s Wood – a place I have long wanted to visit. Ancient twisted oaks dripping with silvery lichen and huge rocks covered in mosses, the place had another-worldly feel.
Later, a quick roadside stop to look at Soussons Common Cairn Circle and then on to Grimspound Bronze Age settlement.
Grimspound is one of the best known prehistoric settlements on Dartmoor, probably dating from the Late Bronze Age, with the remains of 24 houses/hut circles enclosed within a stone wall. A very impressive place to visit as positioned on the steep side of some spectacular moor land. A peaty fast flowing stream runs down past one side of the circular wall.
Text taken from ‘Ancient Dartmoor’ by Paul White says “The most famous of the pound settlements is Grimspound, which is untypical in the immense thickness of its outer walls. It has been calculated that these would have taken 35 man-years to make. Since the site is badly positioned for defence (and the Bronze Age was a remarkably peaceful period) it is hard to see why such a massive structure was needed.” Paul White goes on to say it would be tempting to assume these people were pastoralists, keeping their sheep and cattle on the moor and bringing them in for protection from raiders such as wolves or ‘the wild lads from the next valley’, however, he adds there is no evidence to support these assumptions.
A chance visit, not planned at all. Just the other side of Warminster today on the way to somewhere else, spotted this marvelous enigmatic looking hill. Never seen before by me. Abandoned original plan with “Let’s walk up it.” Remarkably easy to access, just past the entrance to Longleat there is a National Trust signpost and small car park. Easy walk up ... today was very windy indeed which made it a lot of fun. There is a clear information board telling us about the Bronze Age bowl barrows, Iron Age hill fort and the six different varieties of orchid. Too late for the orchids today but amazing views – in some ways this hill reminded me of Uffington and even Glastonbury Tor as it has a smaller hill next to it. Very much the same ‘feel’ as Uffington but without the white horse of course.
Lovely, relatively, unsung place. Added to list of great hill forts around Wiltshire.
Spotted this ‘split’ standing stone while looking for the Pulcin an Chairn wedge tomb. It stands in the middle of a field along the same single track road as the wedge tomb. Haven’t been able to find any additional information about this site. Hopefully will be able to add something to this brief field note later.
Visited 18th May 2014
Dunbeg Fort is closed to visitors at present because of the serious damage caused by the winter storms. Visitors are allowed to walk down to it but no access to the site – it is clear to try and enter would be dangerous. The woman in the audio-visual centre told us that engineers had recently undertaken a structural survey and there is hope that some of the damage can be repaired with limited access allowed later in the summer.
The following information is taken from the audio-visual leaflet.
“Dunbeg Fort is a small but impressive example of a promontory fort but its location makes it even more dramatic. Built on a sheer cliff, its archaeological excavation was undertaken in the late 1970s. There are two major phases of occupation recorded. The first phase was around the 8th and 9th centuries AD. Clusters of stake holes to the north and south of the fort indicated the presence of wooden tripods for supporting pots and skins over the fire. Analysis of the occupation debris suggests a diet mainly of pigs, sheep and goats with some cows.
The second phase of occupation lay above the first phase and was around the 10th and 11th centuries AD. It was concentrated on two hearths in the centre of the Beehive (clochan). The bones of sheep, pig, deer, birds and fish were also recorded. But the excavation results did not reveal what the site was used for; it may have been defensive, or used for ritual or even status purposes, or it may simply have just been lived in.”
Some lovely examples of clochans/beehive huts nearby on the hillside.
Visited 19th May 2014
Located in Milltown just outside the town of Dingle on the Dingle peninsula, the large standing in the front garden of Milestone B&B is clearly visible from the road. Known locally as the Milestone, the stone stands in good view of Brandon Mountain with large recumbent stones in the adjacent field. These stones feel ‘related’ to the standing stone though now separated by a fence. I *think* one of the stones has cup and ring marks but heavily covered in lichen so hard to make out. The farmer who rents the field politely asked us to leave at this point as he wanted to lock the gate – so we really only had a cursory look.
Visited 19th May 2014 while spending a week exploring the Dingle peninsula, Kerry, Ireland.
Learnt about this spiral rock carving whilst visiting Kilmalkedar ruined medieval church on the Dingle peninsula. Before going into the church and churchyard – which contain a fine ogham stone, a large stone cross and stone sun dial, all dating around 12th century – we wandered up the lane to another atmospheric ruin, Fothraich Brenndan (St Brendan’s House) with a fast flowing spring nearby. Also nearby was an information board which made reference to a recently discovered spiral rock carving known as the Corr Aille Spiral. We noticed the route of the Pilgrim’s Way or ‘Way of the Saints’ was close by going uphill and marked by posts with the Pilgrim’s Way symbol on them. We fell in with a couple also visiting from England and set off with them in search of the stone. We walked up Reenconnell Hill from post to post which were positioned every 100 metres or so, jumping over bogs in the process. One of other two people strode on ahead and at the very top of the hill in what appeared to be a rocky outcrop he located the spiral stone. From this point there are fabulous views towards Brandon Mountain on one side and two bays on the other.
The Pilgrim’s Way or Cosan na Naomh starts at Ventry Bay and goes to the summit of Brandon Mountain, 18 km or 11miles. It is thought to be a much older pre-Christian pilgrimage route in honour of the festival Lughnasa traditionally held 31st July. It was later renamed for St Brendan the Navigator who came from the town of Tralee.
Just back from a dream like week on the Dingle peninsula. No stone circles on Dingle though lots of standing stones. This wedge tomb, however, more than compensated for the absence of stone circles. Probably one of the most inaccessible sites I’ve ever visited. A long drive down a narrow single track road and very difficult to locate on a steep, boggy hilltop overlooking sea and mountains in the parish of Min Aird. The tomb is on the other side of a stone wall and unless you know where to look almost impossible to see. We were directed there by a helpful, friendly, person at the Ballyferriter (West Kerry) Regional Museum.
Apart from the breathtaking views – my amateurish photo cannot do it justice – it is of particular interest as most of the original stones covering the cairn are still in place.
Just had to sit for a while and soak up the ‘words fail me’ beauty of the place.
Site is on the edge of what is now a housing development on the southern side of Swindon, also close to the river Ray. Although not a lot to see, a green circular area enclosed by wooden posts, and a scheduled ancient monument plaque with the description “Rushy Platt Bowl barrow is sealed under a layer of modern landfill. Archaeological investigations reveal it consists of a mound 11m in diameter and about .75m high. There is a large flat slab sealing a deep pit containing worked flint”.
It is unusual in as much it is not on Wiltshire down land but on a low lying ancient fen area, now a designated nature reserve ‘Rushy Platt Nature Reserve’. Anyone wishing to visit can access the site via a pleasant walk along the Berks and Wilts Canal known locally as Kingshill Canal. The barrow is on the right across a small river and bridge. Walk into the housing development and it is just in front of you. (See English Heritage link for map).
Visited today courtesy of a good friend who now lives in Devizes – part of a long awaited trip to Old Sarum. The sun was shining and at Old Sarum we really did feel like tourists, walking around the old castle ruins and ramparts a few paces in front of a French family.
Figsbury Ring, off the A30, was a very different experience. By now the morning mist had cleared and the afternoon was Warm and Sunny .. how wonderful in itself that was in the middle of March. The first thing I noticed, although owned by the National Trust and designated a SSSI, Figsbury Ring is adjacent to some heavy duty MOD land and there are ‘Keep Out – Danger’ notices all along the right hand side of the hill fort as you walk towards it.
An unusual hill fort, univallate with an inner circular ditch. I did a bit of reading after my visit and there is a view that this is the site of a late Neolithic henge which was later utilized as a hill fort. On a grassland chalk ridge it provides great views towards Old Sarum and Salisbury Cathedral – though both were shrouded in mist today.
In the course of my reading I also came across this item in the Heritage Journal. It doesn’t appear to be posted on TMA so here it is –
heritageaction.wordpress.com/2011/05/06/figsbury-ring-a-monument-in-need-of-care-2/
Perhaps it is worth mentioning there were lots of rabbits around – we spoke to a dog walker as we were leaving who had just disposed of a rabbit picked up by her dog which appeared to have myxomatosis.
Visited this hitherto unknown long barrow today. Walked up a firm, steep, footpath from Salisbury Hollow in the village of Edington, turning right at the top onto another field edge footpath. The barrow is in the middle of a crop field almost on the crest of Tinshead Hill. Protected by a strong fence topped with barbed wire and planted with beech trees, it is not possible to investigate too closely. However, couldn’t resist walking up to it across the field – it felt very good to have mud on my boots again. Wonderful views towards Salisbury Plain (in fact on the edge of the Plain) and the town of Westbury. Walking back down to Edington there is a beautiful valley reminiscent of the area around Bishopstone in north Wiltshire – also on a spring line I understand, though it too wet underfoot to clamber down to them today.
Many thanks to my good friend M for spotting this long barrow on the OS map and for leading me up there.
Visited Stonehenge today via the new Visitors Centre at Airman’s Corner. The Exhibition Room was excellent, the gift shop was what it was, and the cafe was probably the best it could be catering for hundreds of visitors a day (don’t expect anything more than the most basic of light-lunch-type-food). I was looking forward to the land-train but instead travelled on a small bus which used the remains of the A344 as access to Stonehenge. It’s still a bit of a mess up by the site of the old carpark and I was disappointed to find the wire fence still in place around the ancient monument. To view the Stones from the Avenue you have to go around into the adjacent field. However, Stonehenge was wonderful today with a far wider circumference to walk around than previously. The English Heritage staff were friendly and helpful but I was still left with the feeling of being ‘delivered’, ‘processed’ and ‘dispatched’ with exit through the gift shop. Next time I’m going to try and walk up the by-way from Larkhill to fully take in the barrows and magnificent sweep of the landscape.
I’ve visited this long barrow before but on each previous occasion the chambers have been closed to visitors. Today was my first opportunity to go inside.
A hot summer’s day, as we approached along the edge of a field of unripe wheat a raven rose up from the barrow – a good sign. Externally the barrow was covered in high grass and wild flowers – internally it was dark and cool with a low lintel stone to scramble under to gain access. The ground is covered with loose Cotswold stone chippings so hard on the knees, especially in light summer clothes. However, once inside it becomes almost possible to stand – I could see the chamber at the back of the barrow but did not venture that far in.
This is one of my favourite long barrows to visit – it always feels ‘away from it all’ in spite of the road only being a field distance away. Today there was a raven and later a buzzard.
Sad to report, the exterior of the lintel stone had been vandalised by some idiot scratching the word ‘Beware’ and someone’s name on it. My companion also reported similar damage inside.
Have wanted to visit this place for some time and today was the day.
“Clearwell Caves are part of an extensive natural cave system that became partially filled with iron ore 180,000,000 years ago. No one knows when mining for iron ore first began in the Forest of Dean, but the Caves are one of the earliest mines in the British Isles, begun well over 4,000 years ago, when they were first worked for coloured iron oxide or ochres to use as pigment.” (information taken from Visitor’s Guide)
The temperature inside the caves is 10 degrees (which is also the temperature at which spring water emerges from the ground) so take an extra layer if you go on a warm day. We only went to the upper level which goes down 100 feet – it is possible to descend to a much deeper level but this requires hard hats, protective clothing and a caving guide. The caves are a series of caverns known as churns, linked together by tunnels, the largest of which is Pillar Churn named after a large column of stone in the centre. The reservoir in this cavern controls the water that seeps through a disused shaft in the roof. The large flat roof is composed of a very solid rock known as Whitehead Limestone, referred to as ‘lidstone’ because it forms the roof of most of the caverns. There is a fine example of 20th century cave art on the wall in this cavern – a skeleton painted by students in the 1960s.
Clearwell Caves are home to a variety of bats including the greater horseshoe, natterers, and long-eared but the most numerous is the lesser horseshoe (ref: Visitor’s Guide). None made an appearance today. Also found here is the ‘Meta menardi’ or European Cave Spider (an orb-weaving spider) – didn’t see one of those either.
Just as fascinating is the nearby ‘Secret Forest’ which is full of ‘scowles’ ie ravines and rock formations overhung with the tree roots of ancient yews. Thought to be where iron mining began, just outside the wood there are some replica Iron Age round houses which are definitely worth a visit. secretforest.co.uk/
A short distance up the road is Puzzle Wood, similar to the Secret Forest but far more disorientating, like caves above rather than below ground, very twisty and dark (believed to have inspired Tolkien’s Middle Earth) again the temperature dropped considerably – almost like being in caves.
Unfortunately, today I left my camera at home so no photos except the ones on my friend’s camera which I don’t have access to as yet.
This was a ‘wonderful surprise’. Again, I have Margaret Curtis to thank for pointing it out. It was a very windy, chilly, bright day and I took a few minutes for myself to run and look at this stone. Some ancient sites induce a sensation of euphoria, this was definitely one of them – the wind, the rolling clouds and the blue sea in front of me gave me a momentary feeling of flying. What more can I say.
Photographed the information board and have reproduced the text below:
“In this field today stands a solitary standing stone almost 2 metres high, overlooking the Sound of Taransay. It has remained in this position for up to 5,000 years since the Neolithic period or Early Bronze Age. Across the Sound, another standing stone is set above the shore on the island of Taransay, and a third, Clach MhicLeoid, is on Aird Nisabost to the north-east. Over the years local legends have gathered around the stone. In one, a giantess was gathering limpets on the shore and, striking a stone with her hammer, it flew off in three pieces, which landed at each of the three sites.
The Scarista bardess Seonag NicSuain wrote a ‘Song of Steineagaidh Stone’
‘Some say in the village
(though unproven so far)
‘Tis a headstone of a chieftain
From Fingalian’s war.
Should arms and battle
Stir up, as of yore,
Won’t he have to struggle
From ‘neath Steineagaidh Stone
Each man will retire
In peace to sleep in pastures
But over Finlay’s land
The big stone will be watching’
When the stone was first raised, however, it was part of a complex prehistoric ritual site. In front of the stone stood a large circle of 12 or 13 atones more than 40 metres in diameter, indicated now by several fallen stones or the stony sockets in which they had stood. Behind the stone is also a large circular mound which, if contemporary with the circle, may be the remains of a burial cairn. Geophysical survey has shown that around all of this was a ditch, either man-made or natural, that defined the edges of the monument.
The scale and complexity of the original site, and its proximity to other standing stones, suggest that this was the this was the focus for prehistoric religious activity in Harris, as Calanais was for Lewis.
The field wall is said to have been built from the demolished houses of the Scarista tenants who were cleared from the area in the 19th century.”
I have Margaret Curtis to thank for pointing this one out. She joined me and Friend for our trip down to west Harris one windy but bright day a couple of days after we spent an afternoon with her at Callanish.
A burial chamber in someone’s garden near to Horgabost beach on Harris. Thrilling to see as no way would we have spotted it without Margaret’s knowledge and generosity in sharing it.
Our first full day on Lewis, we walked from where we were staying on Great Bernera to the Bostadh Iron Age House. The sun decided to shine and walking down into the white sandy cove was a joy. The Iron Age House was closed as it was Sunday but normally open between noon and 4.00pm.
On the walk back saw a golden eagle, it sat and watched our progress from a high ridge ... my first, one and only, sighting of an eagle in the wild.
Visited 17/5/13
I can’t add very much more to the excellent fieldnotes written by tsc. So this is really just to say I completely agree this is a wonderful site, unlike anywhere I’ve visited before. Had just arrived in Inverness. Friend collected hire car and we headed out in the direction of the historic site of the Battle of Culloden to make our only visit to a prehistoric site on mainland Scotland before starting the journey to Ullapool and Lewis. I was conscious that Callanish/Lewis might diminish my impressions of this visit – no chance.
There are at least four detailed information boards at the site which tell you all you need know plus identify the positions of the various cup marks which appear on some of the stones. The information boards suggest that some are linked to solar alignments.
The site mainly consists of two passage tombs (cairns) with one circular, flatter construction with no entrance which is central to both of the passage tombs – possibly used for cremation. Each of the cairns stand inside quite splendid stone circles. There are other notable features to the site – a solitary outlier in a field as you approach the site (private property) and a collection of large boulder stones just by the entrance.
I did take photographs but had to purchase a new laptop just before I went away and am still trying to fathom out the photo editing function on Windows 8 – so photos may not appear for a while.
Walked up Beacon Hill to the hillfort today. Was in Hampshire with a friend to visit the Sandham Memorial Chapel (which for me was a deeply affecting experience) and the walk up Beacon Hill afterwards somehow seemed totally fitting.
The car park is just off the A34, my first thought was that the noise from the traffic would detract from the enjoyment of the place. Its a long way up though and the noise soon receded – by the time we reached the hillfort at the top the A34 had diminished and could no longer be heard. As we walked round the ramparts a red kite glided by below us. There is a very big sky up there – wonderful cloud formations today and, needless to say, amazing views. Highclere Castle can be clearly seen and the grave of the Fifth Earl of Carnavon aka George Edward Stanhope Molyneux Herbert (Adventurer, Explorer, Archaeologist) who with Howard Carter discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun – is on the edge of the hillfort surrounded by railings.
An amazing place!
Taken from the Coate Water Country Park FB page:
“Coate boasts a host of Bronze Age, Romano-British and Medieval history that spans a period of up to about 3000 years. The oldest known ancient monuments at Coate are the Neolithic Stone Circle and the Bronze age burial mound along Day House Lane. However, no less than six Stone Circles have been recorded in the Coate area linked up, in part, by avenues of large Sarsen stones. The remains of one of the stone circles probably still lies at the bottom of the lake at Coate Water whilst other ancient finds are dotted around the area that include evidence of Medieval settlements.”
Imbolc today, my favourite day of the year and the winter sun was shining in the promise of spring. Met up with my friend (who owns a car) and we headed off into the Cotswolds to Avening (passing through that parallel universe of Tetbury where no-one is poor, disabled, or in any way dishevelled).
Following the directions of thesweetcheat, Carl and Baza, we found the private road easily (about 200 metres past the local school) on the other side of the road. We quickly spotted the place where others have scrambled down the bank under the barbed wire – a bit steep but we went carefully. What a great surprise these two little chambered tombs are – the remains of a third also visible. Set into the bank they reminded me of some of the Irish wedge tombs in size. I’ve since learnt they had been moved from their original site – see Rhiannon’s notes.
Seeing them for the first time without being aware that this was not their original location I have to say they seemed very ‘settled’ into the steep bankside, well camouflaged as they are by fallen leaves, soil and moss. A lovely spot overlooking what today was a fast flowing river.
Today, with an interlude of winter sun for about an hour.
A circular (triangular) walk from Upper Lambourn using OS map 170. Set off late morning along a surprisingly unmuddy byway as far as Postdown’s Farm from where we had to do some road walking. Clear signs of recent flooding, the adjacent fields were lake-like in places – we passed a couple of large round barrows on our left as we walked towards Seven Barrows Nature Reserve. The road was badly flooded by the entrance to the nature reserve and the entrance impassable on foot without wellies, fast flowing water running off into a nearby field (must be springs around here to cause to the water to flow such). We managed to jump across a water filled ditch and scramble under some blackthorn hedging to get a better look at the seven (possibly eight) barrows.
The landscape is astonishing – apparently 26 barrows in all dating back to 2200BC. We didn’t actually count the ones we saw besides the seven in the nature reserve but there were several. The sense of walking through an important Bronze Age cemetery was tangible.
We continued on foot along the road past Seven Barrows House and took the track towards Uffington to look for the long barrow shown on the OS map. Not much left and it would be easy to walk past if you didn’t know it was there as absorbed into a beech plantation – two fine stones remain though.
Picked up another muddy byway back to Upper Lambourn and happily came across the Hangman’s Stone just before the track back down to the village. A small standing stone approximately a metre high – probably a boundary stone.
Out walking yesterday – one of those November days that feels like a gift. Sunday, the rain lashed down. Monday, the sun came back and warmed the sodden earth. Had arranged to walk with my Gloucestershire walking friend who picked out a route that stuck to green paths where possible. We set off at from the little village of Yanworth (near Chedworth Roman villa) and walked to the village of Hampnett. Hangman’s Stone is marked on the OS map about halfway between the two villages, just off the Salt Way and on the Macmillan Way. The stone itself lies on its side and is well camouflaged by the Cotswold stone wall behind it. Now in two parts with a hole through what looks like the top half. (Just read tsc’s post which indicates the stone has always been two stones – to me it looked like one standing stone that had split naturally through weathering)
Curious this one – came upon it by chance and it doesn’t really want to be seen.
I omitted to add this when I wrote up my fieldnotes on Gower. This atmospheric cairn is about 30 metres from Maen Ceti and the two sites seem connected. I don’t know if there is any archaeological data concerning this cairn – it just seems to be in the right place. Stopped here for bit to enjoy the estuary view towards Llanelli. Anyone visiting Maen Ceti would feel naturally drawn to walk over to it.
Sunday 21st October 2012
The day started overcast but quickly turned into an amazing day full of blue sky and sea. Rhossili soon became very busy because of the lovely weather (surfers out in droves). Fortunately we had made an early start so avoided the crowds until later in the day. The plan was to walk to Hillend from Rhossili along the top of Rhossili Down and return along the beach (which I believe is the largest in the UK). Sweyne Howes burial chambers came into view at about the half way point of the walk – one is ruined with the stones scattered. The larger and more intact chamber is reminiscent of some of the wedge tombs I saw in Ireland. Unlike the wedge tombs, however, these two are hidden from the sea view being well below the high ridge of the Down.
Saturday 20th October 2012
Starting from Penmaen, three miles along the Gower Way – the walk along the top of Cefn Bryn made the visit to this astonishing site all the more memorable. It was a beautiful mid October morning – the sea visible on both sides. So much to see and enjoy, not least the free range Welsh ponies which galloped across the brown bracken.
Maen Ceti is astonishing – a massive capstone standing on several small stone ‘legs’ with a scatter of smaller stones around. The legs stand in water and the surrounding ground is boggy in places – I believe there are a few springs nearby. Close by too, is a large stone cairn (which felt related).
Cat Hole Cave is just a short walk from Parc Le Breos (about 200 yards north) uphill into a wooded area. Access is no longer possible as the cave has now been closed to the public with bars in situ. A local person said this was because the bats were being disturbed by people going into the cave looking for the ‘reindeer rock art’.
In 1968 excavations recovered flint blades of the ‘Creswellian’ type which indicated this cave was the home to hunting parties towards the end of the Ice Age some 14,000 years ago.
Visited Friday 19th October 2012 – first port of call of weekend on the lovely Gower Peninsular. About half a mile up the hill from the Park Mill Heritage Centre, this chambered stone long barrow is hard to miss. This was my first encounter with a ‘cairn’ type long barrow. Now open to the elements in the same way that Nympsfield in the Cotswolds is – the chambers are impressive.
The Cat Hole cave is a short walk away up into a wooded area.
24/8/2012
In the grounds of an early 17th century hunting lodge now owned by the National Trust. There is public access to the barrow field though today there was a large herd of young frisky pedigree cattle also in the field. They didn’t notice us until we were making our way back (a little too frisky for my taste).
This long barrow is now protected by an electric fence – I imagine to keep cattle, rather than people, off. Easy enough to step over if you want to. The barrow looked in good condition and no signs of the past damage recently reported by Evergreen Dazed. Three of the stones from the chamber still remain (reminded me of a small wedge tomb).
Second visit to this spectacular hill fort today. Incorporated it with a stop off in Andover to visit the superb Museum of the Iron Age based on the excavations at Danebury but which also attempts to give a general impression of life in the Iron Age. Well worth a visit – lots to see, lots to learn.
It was a hot afternoon but the walk up to Danebury somehow felt breezy and just the right place to be. Wonderful views across the now golden grain fields of Hampshire. We had gone back specifically to see the wild flowers which seem to grow in such profusion at other hill forts like Barbury. The predominate wild flowers today were great stands of yellow ragwort – a wild flower I have reservations about as believe it is poisonous to horses and cattle. Lots of delicate harebells growing too.
Butterflies galore ... which was a bit of a joy as its been a bad year for butterflies up till now. Saw my first red admiral of the summer, along with chalk blues, marbled whites and many more.
Danebury had a little surprise for us – we found a small wooded area to take shade and stop for a drink. Three brown ponies (possibly Exmoors) appeared and calmly walked past unperturbed by our presence. I was particularly surprised to see them as there was so much ragwort around. I guess they just know not to eat it.
We’ve all been to an ancient site and left with a sinking heart because of litter or the vandalism of past excavations. Today I almost wept – had to go to Stroud in Gloucestershire, the sun came out so thought to make a day of it and walk up to Painswick Beacon. A place I’ve visited once before three years and, although then the whole of Painswick Hill seems to be a golf course, it seemed peaceful and the views across the Severn Valley are pretty amazing.
Today I discovered part of the hillside is missing – a great yawning chunk of hillside gone. The noise from the diggers moving great lumps of Cotswold stone around destroyed any peace. Cotswold stone has always been quarried but I’ve never seen it done on such a destructive and industrial scale.
i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm200/TJJackson66/012-19.jpg
Painswick hillfort and beacon are still intact, the views still terrific, a kestrel still hovered but what a travesty.
Visited on Friday 18th May , the one really wet day of the week. I have to say unfairly perhaps, that after the remote, mysterious circles, wedge tombs and standing stones situated on mountain sides, often in peat bogs almost always facing towards the sea – this stone circle was an anti-climax. Near the centre of the town of Kenmare (Ceann Mara – the head of the sea) it is the largest and most well preserved circle in the south-west measuring about 17 metres in diameter with 15 uprights and a large boulder dolmen at the centre. Boulder dolmens are rarely found outside south-western Ireland and are thought to be ‘memorials set above burials rather than formal chambers intended as receptacles for burial deposits’ (quote:* Sean O’Nuallain). The local information leaflet says that this bears some relationship to Stonehenge.
When Julian Cope visited in 2002 he describes it thus “ in their current state these stones remind the traveller of a fussy, ersatz and over-presented garden centre feature … “
Nicknamed the Shrubberies by the locals and ten years on – fast growing conifers have been planted completely enclosing it. And yet, and yet ... as the disappointment settles over you, you know the Caha Mountains are there though cannot been seen because of the plantings; you can hear, though cannot see, a rushing river nearby. Give this stone circle back to Nature and the ‘sense of place’ recently discussed on the forum would be there in abundance.
*from: “Stone Circles, Stone Rows, Boulder-Burials and Standing Stones”
Visited 19th May 2012:
Needless to Drombeg (Droumbeag) was very high on my list of stone circles to visit in Cork. However, as it was on the south coast my companion (and driver) sensibly suggested we visit on our return journey to Wexford. So it was with something of a heavy heart that we drove away from beautiful, wild, West Cork towards the more lushly green pastures of the south. I’m not sure if this coloured my visit – Drombeg is in a wonderful setting but I didn’t experience quite the same thrill as on the Beara Peninsula – coming across Cashelkeelty by chance on our first full day, followed by Ardgroom. Once again I refer back to Jack Robert’s marvellous little book – full of inspired drawings and a comprehensive guide to all the many ancient sites in West Cork. I can’t recommend it too highly (can be obtained from bookshops in Bantry and Kenmare).
Taken from “Exploring West Cork” by Jack Roberts
Droumbeag, stone circle, Fulach Fiann and Fort
Named after the townland in which it stands- drum beag (the small ridge) this is perhaps the most well known prehistoric monument in West Cork and easily found as it is liberally signposted from Rosscarbery or Leap. The circle and its attendant Fulach Fian were excavated in 1958 and the findings from this circle constitute a large proportion of our present knowledge of the use and age of these monuments.
The circle has survived in an almost perfect state of preservation, only one of the stones on the eastern side have fallen, and it probably appears now much as it did to those who came here in pre-Christian times. The circle consists of thirteen stones around an area that was cleared and paved with small flat stones. The excavations have revealed a number of burial pits, one of which contained cremated human remains. Unfortunately none of the findings has established a date for the structure but it is thought it may have still been in use towards the beginning of the Christian era.
The name ‘Recumbent Stone Circle’ is thought to have originated from this circle in which the features of this type of monument are particularly pronounced. The recumbent is a large flat-topped block that is loosely set on the ground, not embedded like all the other stones, and bears three deeply carved cup and ring marks. On the opposite side of the circle are the ‘Portal and Pillar stones’, and it is thought that the circle is set in alignment running through the pillars and across the recumbent. This alignment at Droumbeg is towards the winter sun-set which sets in a cleft of the hill to the south-west.
To the west of the circle are the foundations of what are called ‘hut sites’ one of which is set around a hollow in which there is a stone basin fed with water from a nearby spring. This type of monument is also called a Fulach Fian – cooking place of the hunters – and it is thought that the basin was used as a cooking pot. All around this area are the remains of fires and burnt stone and it thought that the pot was heated by dropping hot stones into the water. However there is some thought that says the use of such sites was actually more ritualistic in nature, a steam bath or early sauna?.
Visited 14/5/2012
After visiting Kealkil we walked down the lane, then turning left walked back uphill to find Breeny More. Views even more spectacular than Kealkil. Breeny More is not signposted and, as we were unable to open the gate, we climbed over.
Again I quote from Jack Robert’s “Exploring West Cork”:
“This was once the largest stone circle in West Cork and its quadrant of cromlechs at the centre formed probably one of prehistoric mans’ most important structures. Unfortunately the destruction of this monument has left few of its original stones intact and the destruction continues into the present day. Even the sign erected at the site which establishes it as one of the few protected monuments of the area has been torn from the ground and is heaped up with some stones that originally formed part of the circle.
At present only three of the circle of stones are in their original positions. These may have been the ‘portal’ stones if it was in fact a ‘recumbent stone circle’. Fortunately the enclosure and its cromlechs have yet to be invaded and these, the most curious aspect of the site, are set in an offset square formation and are facing the south west. A complex site of this nature could possibly have been valuable in the search for clues to the original purpose and use of these types of monuments, had it been handed down to us in good order. In its present condition it is possible that its original meaning has been totally destroyed and so we might never know what our ancestors were trying to achieve by building this puzzling structure.”
“Exploring West Cork” was first published in in 1986, the revised and edited edition was republished by Bandia Publishing in 2009.
Visited 14th May 2012
Wrote impressions down immediately after the visit “Brilliantly atmospheric site overlooking Bantry Bay and the western mountains”. This site is well signposted and involves an uphill walk on a narrow road. It is possible to drive up but parking spaces very limited.
In his superb little book “Exploring West Cork” Jack Roberts has written about Kealkil as follows:
“This is deservedly one of the best known and most important sites in the area consisting of an alignment of two large standing stones, a five stone circle and a radial cairn. The site is situated on a hill to the south of Kealkil village and is sign posted at major junctions.
The site was excavated in the 1930’s and the largest of the alignment stones was replaced in its socket. This originally stood at over 5 metres high (17 ft in the original excavation report) but about two metres of the lower portion had broken when it fell. The cairn was one of the earliest radial stone cairns to be properly identified and these comparatively rare and very curious monuments still baffle archaeology in the present day. Perhaps the suggestion that they were used as astronomical calendars is the best interpretation so far put forward but as yet no one has deciphered how they may have served this function. If megalithic architecture was based on a system of orientation and astronomy then this site with its outlook across a mountainous panorama to the west and north could lend itself to a wide range of interpretive possibilities.”
Footnote: The information board says Kealkil is from ‘An Chaolchoill’ meaning ‘the narrow wood’.
This site blew me away, totally unexpected. The credit for finding it goes completely to my companion who is a bit of an OS map devotee. On the other side of Eagle Hill, still with sea views – the path leads first to a large thin standing stone about three fields from the narrow road where we left my friend’s car. Some barbed wire needed to be negotiated as we couldn’t get the gate open (tightly tied up). This site was not signposted so I am guessing we were trespassing.
The wedge tomb is tucked away in the top right hand corner of the field adjacent to the standing stone. It was a perfect small wedge tomb, similar in size to the Cloontreem tomb though in considerably better condition. There seemed to be cup marks on the inside wall of one of the upright stones. A curved row of stones drops down from the tomb towards the standing stone a field away. I had a distinct feeling that tomb and the standing stone were linked together as one site.
16th May 2012:
Back in Castletownbere and a beautiful sunny day, we follow the sign pointing to the Derrymihane West Boulder Burial and Cloontreem (Clountreem) Wedge Tomb. We opt for a walk uphill to look for the wedge tomb on Eagle Hill. The walk is way marked and we were told by a friendly local resident that the capstone has fallen so easy to miss. And miss it we did; it didn’t seem to matter much though as we sat for a while in the lea of some rocks looking out over Bere Haven Harbour glistening in the sunshine. On the way back down we stuck to the trail path and there it was right in front of us. This was the first wedge tomb I had seen and it was much smaller than I imagined and camouflaged by the larger surrounding natural rocks.
The local resident who had given us directions earlier also said there was the shape of a deer on the fallen capstone – we did see this though thought it might be a horse.
Note: there had been a spell of dry weather so the going was relatively easy but be aware this is peat bog land.
Found this lovely stone circle quite by chance. Whilst wandering around Castletownbere we read about it on an tourist information board. Very easy to find as just uphill out of the town and well signposted. In Jack Robert’s “The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula” it is described as follows: “The Stone Circle can be found in a field on the right of the lane less than 2 km from the main road. Mind you go left at the one junction. The orientation of this circle seems to be towards the Equinox sun-set. The land around the circle, particularly on the west side, contains much burnt material and in the neighbouring field is a Fulach Fiadh, or ancient cooking place.”
Close by is Teerniatallane (Tir na hAiohleann) Ring Fort.
Visited 13th May 2012
We went from the village of Ardgroom up a narrow road – circle is well signposted and there is also a heavy duty metal information board by the field entrance. Very boggy though there are stepping stones through the wettest part of the field. This is a circle that speaks very much for itself – views towards the sea were breathtaking.
Jack Rogers writes: “Also known as Canfea Circle. Of two Stone Circles to be found in the lowlands between Ardgroom harbour and the hills. The circle consists of 11 stones, 9 of which are still upright and one Alignment stone outside the circle. Note the little wall that runs through the site as at Kilmacowen. There is also some fine Ring Forts in the area.”
Just as a little footnote: I was aware of a large attractive cow at the edge of the field as we walked across to the circle, when I stopped to read the information board on the way back she came rushing over at disconcerting speed. My companion pointed out that there was a newly born calf lying concealed in the marsh grass – the mother cow stood protectively over it until we had walked away.
Sunday 13th May 2012
I loved this site because visiting it happened quite by chance. After travelling over the Healy Pass with lots “don’t look down moments” we were on our to Ardgroom. Julian Cope doesn’t mention Cashelkeelty in his Megalithic European section on Cork because it is actually just across the border into Kerry. The green lettered heritage sign was spotted as we drove by so we walked back to investigate without knowing what to expect. A steep climb up through an other-worldly, mossy woodland with waterfalls and streams splashing around us brought us out onto a rocky mountainside track. Another steep walk up the track to what seemed to be a large outlier and small cluster of stones before reaching the main cluster of standing stones. Not sure if I would describe them as circles but they were certainly arranged in two groupings of stones. This was my very first experience of the standing stones of the (circles/alignments) on the Beara Peninsula.
Jack Roberts in his definitive guide ‘The Antiquities of the Beara Peninsula’ describes Cashelkeelty as follows:
“These sites are situated close to a stretch of old trackway, now part of the Beara Way route, known as the ‘Old Green Road’. There are two circles but only one of them is recognisable as a circle. This is one of the few sites that have been archaeologically examined and excavations identified the second circle.”
As I was to later discover when visiting other sites on the Beara Peninsula – the view is everything. On the side of a mountain, overlooking the sea. A cuckoo was calling ...
This one is dedicated to my Mum!
Visited 12th May 2012 – on the drive from Wexford to West Cork after an overnight ferry stop. Inspired to visit by Ken Williams’ beautiful photos, this site fully lives up to expectations. Magical seems to be the only word to describe it – enclosed in a small grove of oak trees, bluebells and stitchwort all around, foxgloves waiting to open, there is indeed something faery-like about the place. It is a magnificent portal tomb, comparable to Carreg Samson on the other side of the Irish Sea.
Situated near the Waterford county border, take the R682 keeping an eye out for a green lettered heritage sign. Take a signposted turning off this road on the way to Tramore – keep driving until you see another heritage sign pointing the way. The nearby house/farm has had stone walls built with large security gates seeming to obstruct the lane up to the dolmen. Do not be put off – they have built a gap into the stone wall for people to walk through, then just a few metres up the lane. Well signposted.
I visited Carreg Samson yesterday on the way home from the Fishguard ferry. Almost declined the suggestion to make the detour as by this time travel weary and a long journey still ahead.
What an uplifting experience – midday yesterday the sky and sea were sparkling blue. My friend drove to Abercastle via Mathry from where we took a short walk along the coast path to a signpost pointing uphill – quite accessible as steps have been laid. Carreg Samson lived up to all my expectations and felt very much in keeping with the sites I had just been visiting in West Cork as again, facing out to sea. This visit somehow made light of the long drive back to Wiltshire which lay ahead.
Not possible to visit this site as I was told it is on “very private property.”
Today (yesterday now) I made the long bus journey to Amesbury – really worth the effort. The small exhibition in what appears to be an old scout hut grandly called Mellor Hall really captured my imagination. Lots of exhibits of flint arrow heads and auroch bones which have been found at Vespasian’s Camp, also at the nearby site of a spring known as Blick Mead. Vespasian’s Camp is located 1.5km between Stonehenge and Durrington Walls. It overlooks the Avenue and Bluestonehenge on its western side and the river Avon to the south and east.
Excavations on what was thought to be an Iron Age hillfort reveal the site is much older than previously thought. The finds date back to the Mesolithic period making it 8000 years old; 10,000 pieces of flint and bone have been found. It had previously been dismissed by archaeologists as is in the grounds of Amesbury Abbey which were subject to extensive landscaping in the 18th century. However, David Jacques, Open University students and volunteers undertook small scale field work between 2005-2011.
Blick Mead is a small open basin next to Amesbury Park and immediately south of the southern carriage way of the A303. There is a shallow water course running from it which is currently dry and an artificial drain which would take the water down to the river Avon in wetter conditions. Geologist, Peter Hoare, gave a short, very interesting talk about spring sapping and the effect of water tables rising and falling. He also reported that some dumping of materials had taken place during the building of the A303 which accounted for a layer of clay and flint below the chalk bed rock.
Went past this long barrow today while walking along the Gloucester Way from the village of Coberley. The most notable thing about this barrow is its position – perched on the side of a hill overlooking a beautiful valley known as Coldwell Bottom. The barrow is fairly ruinous with the appearance of being split in two. Many people’s feet have formed a footpath through the centre of the barrow. We climbed over a gate to take a closer look and from the far side of the barrow dips made by excavations can be more clearly seen.
It may be worth mentioning for those who like springs that in the nearby village of Coberley near the village green is a bubbling spring flowing fast and clear.
Tried to visit this hillfort today while out walking around the Coates area. Have to report defeat on this one though note thesweetcheat managed it. We were heading for the ‘source’ of the Thames which seems significantly very close to the hillfort. Entering by a gate through woodland (no ‘private’ notices though it felt private) we came up against a deep walled ditch – so turned back. The OS map shows Trewsbury House inside the hillfort:
britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/en-129296-trewsbury-house-coates/osmap
Quite unusual and made us less inclined to press on – could also hear what sounded like a flock of geese ...
We found the ‘source’ of the Thames marked by a large granite stone – now a dry spring.
Visited 21/2/2012
Out walking – started on the Ridgeway from the bridleway opposite the downland path to the village of Ashbury. Walking to Ashdown, I hadn’t made the connection between the two places before. A gentle walk through Hayley Wood and Middle Wood with the small Iron Age hillfort of Alfred’s Castle visible through the leafless trees.
The path through the woods leads directly down to Ashdown House which is currently undergoing renovation and not visible from behind protective sheeting and scaffolding. The small carpark with a National Trust information board is next to the sarsen drift field which, although lacking the other worldly quality of Fyfield Down and Lockeridge, still has a wonderful atmosphere all of its own. It lies at the foot of Weathercock Hill which today had a herd of deer grazing peacefully. Walking through the sarsen drift field it seemed some of the stones were not a random scatter but arranged in a stone row.
Up Weathercock Hill, we appeared to be shadowing the herd of deer for much of our walk. A red kite glided overhead. Further along we encountered a much smaller herd of stags. Back to the Ridgeway with a fabulous view of Uffington Castle which, from this perspective, seems to be on a promontory much like Barbury.
The rest of the walk was about a mile along the Ridgeway taking in Waylands Smithy. Always, always an uplifting experience.
