Shovel Down Complex - 1.4.2004
The instructions on the megalithic walks website (see link below) are excellent. Just a couple of additions though. First, to be clear that the bridge mentioned (i.e. where to park) is just outside Batworthy Farm, at SX662866. The space near the bridge should take 4 to 5 cars. I also saw cars parked at various small places off the road over the common, but the bridge area is better and more sensible. Secondly, the journey through the lanes is pretty tortuous, but at least you shouldn't get lost if you have an OS map. Once successfully on the right road (after the crucial junction at SX690870), it is pretty much follow the road and don't take any of the turnings off the lane. To avoid some of the earlier lanes try the B3206 to Chagford from the A382. Be careful to avoid the Range Rovers though! Judging from the cars and the shops this ancient Stannary town looks like a squeaky clean Devon version of Hampstead!
As you walk up towards Batworthy Corner, the north east most row comes clearly into view. A few hundred metres on and you've experienced your first bit of Shovel Down! This first row leads to an intriguing circle of three concentric stone circles. Up and over the hill and the enormous long stone suddenly comes into view. This massive, enigmatic stone has lots of stones around its base. Are they modern? They somehow don't look quite right. The southern stone row (as shown on the OS map) basically doesn't exist; there is nothing there.
I believe I found the remaining one of the 'Three Boys', but it is 70% fallen. From here, if you know where you are looking you can just see the top of the Long Stone. It would be interesting to know if it could be seen from the top of the three boys when it was / they were erect.
There must be 3 rows to the north, not just two as the OS map shows. The middle row starts and continues further away from the others, and is a good way to walk onwards to Scorhill.
When I later returned to the bridge I was led down the rocky path by a dog from Batworthy Farm, like Lassie leading an injured child!
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Pencarrow Rings Hill Slope Fort - 31.3.2004
Pencarrow House is a historic house and garden open to the public. The entrance and long driveway is off Old School Lane, which connects the A389 and B3266 near Washaway. Well signposted. The 'hill fort' is 300metres from this entrance and is literally split in two by the driveway up to the house. You'll probably notice that it's not on much of a hill, and it isn't the highest local point. A hill slope fort in reality. As there were signs saying 'No waiting' and 'No stopping on the driveway' I thought fair enough, it's your grounds, so your rules and decided to park just outside the gates and walk in.
The ramparts are very impressive. Shame the road goes right through them! Although these ramparts and ditches are impressive it does make you wonder how much space was left to live or shelter. In some places the gap between the inner and outer ring is up to 24m but still that's not much if you think about it. On the west side an incomplete annexe can be seen (cut by the road).
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Buttern Hill Stone Circle - 1.4.2004
I knew absolutely nothing about this site before visiting. I just saw it on the map and decided to make it an extension to my visit to Shovel Down and Scorhill. If anyone knows of any 'official' name for it please tell me and I'll change it.
Although Bodmin Moor is much smaller, it is often a much harder place to walk than Dartmoor. A shortish walk on Dartmoor seems relatively easy to me, except for the fog and the lack of obvious features to map read by. Dartmoor felt drier than the Cornish uplands and there are 'paths' everywhere in this section of Dartmoor. Not obvious or marked paths but just loads of small paths (livestock paths?) that mean you don't have to yomp over uneven ground.
So, from Scorhill to Buttern Hill Stone Circle you basically just need to skirt round the south west side of Buttern Hill. When you see some watery ground at the bottom of the valley between Buttern Hill and Rippator, you're getting close. But don't go right down to this lowest point. Stay mid way up the gentle slope and continue for about 300 metres and the circle should be there. It is not easy to spot / see. If you see some stones in this area, check them out; they could be the circle. I counted 5 stones still standing, and 15 recumbant, ranging from large ones to tiny stones that seem to be inline with a circle.
It's a sad circle and obviously overshadowed by Scorhill, which is easier to get to and more 'beautiful'. But I have great sympathy for this circle. It's the underdog and I guess it was once beautiful.
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Mardon Down Stone Circle - 3.4.2004
For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.
I knew absolutely nothing about this. I just saw the area on the map and decided to make it a stop off point on my way home.
Once I found it (not knowing whether it would be an obvious stone circle, or one of those fallen ones covered in gorse!) I realised that it should be simple for others to find. Just walk along the top of the hill until you reach a small piece of wooden fencing with a sign on it that reads "To help conserve the archaeological site please follow the path to he left/right*. Thank you." (* says left in one direction and right in the opposite). The stone circle is between these signs. I counted 17 obvious stones (most recumbent), and imagine that there will be others hidden in the gorse.
I believe that what Johan had previously added as the Giant's Grave is actually the stone circle. The large stone that four of his pictures show is (in my humble opinion) actually just one stone in the circle (the largest). The OS map is a bit of a pain because it has the general phrase 'Giant's Grave' on without actually definitely directing this to any of the ancient sites themselves. I would imagine that it either just generally means that the area has ancient graves on the top of a hill, or maybe refers to the two cairns at SX767874. I doubt it has anything to do with a long barrow. I hadn't read Johan's post before visiting the area.
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Mardon Down Cairns - 3.4.2004
For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.
There are 4 cairns marked on the OS map. Two are apparently where the track kinks to the right half way between the stone circle and the cairn circle (SX767874). And two are supposed to be very close to the stone circle, one shown on the map as maybe 50 metres south of the stone circle, and one immediately north of the stone circle. Hmmm, well I didn't look for the northern two because I wanted to see the cairn circle and then go.
But I did find what I thought was a kerbed cairn just a few metres south of the stone circle. However that doesn't tally with the map. Curious.
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Cleave Burial Chamber - 3.4.2004
I knew absolutely nothing about this. I just saw it on the map and decided to make it a stop off on my way to Mardon Down. If anyone knows of any 'official' name for it please tell me and I'll change it.
I can't really describe how to get here. You'll most probably need an OS map to find it in the lanes, although actually it's not far from the main A382 road.
The lane that leads past the field the little chamber is in is very narrow and it's not easy to find anywhere to park. I found somewhere about a field away and just had a quick peak into the field. The chamber is tiny, and there are other stones around that take away what little presence it might have. It reminded me of the moment in Spinal Tap when a tiny model of a Stonehenge trilithon comes down onto the stage!
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Mardon Down - 3.4.2004
I approached via Moretonhampstead but in the jumble of roads and junctions in the middle of the small town I couldn't honestly give good directions to find the lane that leads up to the downs! I can say that it isn't signposted at all and it might have been 'School Lane'(?). I just felt the lane was the right one judging from the OS map. If you then go down and back up a dip, and pass Addiscott on your right you are on the right lane! I left the downs due south, onto the B3212 (which by the way is a really twisty and narrow B road for much of its length), which was really easy so this might be a better way.
This is all Access Land, so you can roam at will. There is a sort of 'car park' at SX762873. If you are coming onto the common from the south west, take the road to the right (marked 'Exeter') and it's 200m up the road on the left. However, all it is is the only tarmaced area on the common. No facilities. In fact when I was there most of it was taken up with mounds of gravel. In reality people park all over the downs as most of the roads have clear spaces off of them at intervals (and they aren't passing places).
There are loads of paths all over the downs. All seem pretty basic and liable to mud. Some might get overgrown in summer. Gorse almost everywhere. The car park is a relatively convenient place to park as there is a clear path up to the top. However this is a bit more of a climb (55m in height in a 500m walk) than from the south end.
The track that is marked on the OS map that goes across the top of the hill doesn't really live up to it's billing and exists only in places as a track wide enough for a 4x4. Some of the time it's just like a footpath, and can be boggy. But it is a convenient way to help find the ancient sties on this hill.
At 356 metres above sea level there are not surprisingly brilliant views from the hill.
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Mardon Down Cairn Circle - 3.4.2004
For directions to the general area, see the record for Mardon Down.
This is relatively easy to find because it is quite striking and because it's next to the junction of two relatively clear paths up the hill, one from the east and one from the north. I imagine that with more undergrowth it could be slightly less obvious.
This is a beauty. I'm not very used to cairn circles (not many in Southern England) but I would imagine with could be a pretty fine example, with nine standing stones, plus several recumbent and/or out of place. Despite the drizzle and mist the views were still spectacular.
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Brown Willy Settlement - 28.3.2004
For directions to the general area, see the record for the Brown Willy Cairns.
In a field on the south east edge of the slopes of Brown Willy there is what I assume is a Bronze Age settlement. I know nothing about this site - just what I saw on the OS map - and haven't seen it mentioned in any of my books. Given that the area is littered with a variety of settlements, I imagine this is pretty much the same as others. Despite the moorland undergrowth several roundhouse are quite clearly visible and worth a quick visit if you have any energy left at this point.This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Brown Willy Cairns - 28.3.2004
For directions as far as Catshole Downs, see the main Catshole Downs page, and the Tolborough Downs page.
Well, if you've got as far as Catshole and still want some hard walking you might as well bag the highest point in Cornwall, Brown Willy.
And from the east side of the fence on Catshole Downs it is pretty easy to get to, if a hard slog. Carry on North, close to the fence / old field wall. Cross into the next field. After 1½ kms a rocky outcrop will be visible on your right. Continue by the fence for 100m and a stile lets you into the field on the east side of Brown Willy. A recognisable (but unmarked) path takes you across the field and straight up Brown Willy to its highest point. This 'path' is just a boggy lumpy track but it is obvious that people / livestock have used it, and its direction straight to the northern cairn on Brown Willy is useful. It's a very steep climb to the top (only about a 75m rise but all steep!). As I made the last step onto the plateau at the top I surprised several sheep that dashed past me. I bet they weren't as knackered as I was!
Even on an intermittently dull and drizzling day like this the views are not surprisingly amazing, across Rough Tor to the north west and Colliford Lake several kilometres south east.
The south cairn on Brown Willy aligns with the west cairn on Catshole Tor, the Tolborough Tor Cairn, and the the Catshole Long Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.
Note - this is very much the unofficial and (probably) much harder route to Brown Willy. I did it this way so I could get Tolborough, Catshole and Brown Willy all in one long walk. The real 'permissive' route seems to be the path on the map that enters Brown Willy from the north, from the Fernacre track (circa SX148797)This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Catshole Downs - 28.3.2004
For one way to get to the general area, see the Tolborough Downs page.
To get towards the Catshole Downs Long Cairn and the eastern Catshole Tor cairn, from Tolborough Tor head north to the gate in the angled bit of the field (circa SX171782). This leads you out towards these sites.
The Catshole Tor settlement and western Catshole Tor cairn are in the opposite field. From Tolborough Tor head for another gate, just to the west of the angled bit of the field. These gates are very close to each other. This leads you out towards these sites. Note that these four sites are in two separate fields with a fence in between.
Technically most land on Bodmin Moor is 'private' as it is owned by someone, even Downs and Common land. But in reality places like the Tolborough Downs are rarely visited by anyone or anything and as long as you use the normal common sense country code I don't imagine anyone challenging you (don't quote me though as some sort of magic access key!).This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Catshole Tor Settlement - 28.3.2004
For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.
I know nothing about this site - just what I saw on the OS map - and haven't seen it mentioned in any of my books. Given that the area is littered with a variety of settlements, I imagine this is pretty much the same as others. I walked through the area on the map but couldn't see anything obvious. The ground in this field is very uneven and hard work and by now I was too knackered to look too hard!This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Catshole Tor Cairns - 28.3.2004
For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.
The OS map shows two cairns on Catshole Tor, one on the east side (SX172786 - which I didn't find), and one on the west side (SX170785). Note that they are in two separate fields with a fence in between. The western one is basically flattened but you can make out the circular shape and probably flanking stones. Ironically the clitter of stones around the area are more 'obvious' and larger than the actual cairn.
The west cairn on Catshole Tor aligns with the south cairn on Brown Willy, the Tolborough Tor Cairn, and the Catshole Long Cairn although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Catshole Downs Long Cairn - 28.3.2004
For directions etc, see the main Catshole Downs page.
This long trip is worth it for this alone. A huge rarity and relatively easy to find (once you get to the general area), especially if you've previously seen a picture of it. You can also spot it from Tolborough Tor.
From Tolborough Tor head for the gate in the angled bit of the field (circa SX171782). Note -the downs were pretty swampy in places when I visited (& more swampy than other upland areas in Devon & Cornwall). The Long Cairn is then 100m away just to the right of the old field wall.
What does a Long Cairn look like? Imagine a small long barrow, made of stones instead of earth, in a triangular shape, typically 17 to 30 m long sometimes with traces of internal structure. At Catshole you can see the large-ish front stone, and from there you can make out what might have been flanking stones, and a small litter of stones in the interior. They are of the fourth millennia BC.
Peter Herring and Peter Rose, in 'Bodmin Moor's Archaeological Heritage' (Cornwall County Council - 2001), map three long cairns on the moor, with three other possibilities. They suggest that the Catshole long cairn is carefully aligned to the east part of Catshole Tor. What I can add is that the cairn in general does align with the west cairn on Catshole Tor, the south cairn on Brown Willy, and the Tolborough Tor Cairn, although the long cairn can only been seen from the Tolborough Tor Cairn, whereas the other three can all be seen from one another.This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Tolborough Tor Stone Row - 28.3.2004
For directions etc, see the main Tolborough Downs page.
Cheryl Straffon's guide 'The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)' (Meyn Mamvro - 1993, amended 2000) says "On the top of the Tor is a large cairn, to the South East of which is an unusual miniature row of five small stones - SX17567786". Well, yes, but I should add that it is VERY small and overgrown and that is hardly decipherable. It is also very close to cairn (the final, furthest stone is barely 8m from the cairn) so don't go wandering off looking for it many metres away. This final stone is also now broken.This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Tolborough Downs - 28.3.2004
There is probably no easy way to reach the barren Tolborough Tor, on the Tolborough Downs. However, one decent way is to start near Bolventor. Cheryl Straffon's guide 'The Earth Mysteries Guide to Bodmin Moor and North Cornwall (including Tintagel)' (Meyn Mamvro - 1993, amended 2000) says "A pathway behind Jamaica Inn crosses the bypass up to Tolborough Downs". Umm, well, I doubt the first bit, unless she means the underpass to the East of Bolventor. There is no obvious route across the dangerous A30 otherwise.
I found a good place to park and start from, at SX182769, just a few metres from the footpath that leads to Tolborough Downs. If heading towards Launceston on the A30 take the turn off for Bolventor but then take a sharp left turn (signposted 'Bolventor Church') and another immediate sharp left (signposted the same). This dead end lane takes you parallel and above the north side of the A30. The footpath is clearly marked about 300m along this road. If you are driving towards Bodmin the principle is the same. Get off at the Bolventor turnoff but don't go into Bolventor itself. Instead imagine you were trying to get on the A30 towards Launceston, and you will see the Bolventor Church signpost on the bend just before the A30 starts again.
This footpath takes you down a few fields (cows grazing) and across a stream to a few houses at Dairywell Hill. Keep to the right of the houses, through a farm looking gate and head up the very steep and rocky track. Carry on until you finally come out into the bottom of the field where Tolborough Tor lies. If you wanted a slightly less hilly/stony walk you might be able to approach (on foot) along the lane from the main road (at SX191777) towards Tober Barton Farm. Don't know where you would be able to park on the main road though.
The Tor field was very rocky and very wet.This post appears as part of the blog post " Looking down on Kernow" |
Council Barrow - 28.3.2004
If driving North on the A30 technically you can come off the A30 at SX100703 (just past the cow 'traffic lights'), and the barrow is directly on your right. In reality this is one of those amazing Cornish dual carriageway turnoffs that give you very little chance to slow down. Making that turn at this tiny junction would be almost impossible unless you knew exactly where the turn was and you had no traffic behind you. The junction before this one is a bit better (circa SX092693).
So, otherwise you can come via the scrubby looking land from the west, either from the country lanes to the north west, or from Bodmin. From Bodmin take the Old Callywith Rd but instead of getting onto the A30 slip road (circa SX084679) take the road signposted 'Helland'; and drive almost parallel to the A30 until you bear left and over two cattle grids. At the next junction take a right. At the end of this lane the Council barrow sits just off the A30 'junction' in a sad little layby. What an absolute mess! Tyre tracks circle the barrow and also go straight up and over the top! Abandoned farm machinery also spoils it and I guess the farm gate on the North side also doesn't help. Litter and fly tipping is also all around. When I get my picture back I'll send a copy of it to the Cornwall Archaeological Unit. This may not be the most important ancient site in Cornwall but nothing deserves to be treated like this!
I was so shocked at this pitiful site and forgot to think how big it is. I'd guess about 15m in diameter and 2m high.
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Castle Canyke Hill Fort - 28.3.2004
This 'hill fort' is best reached by a minor road that connects the A38 on the North side with 'Castle Canyke Rd' on the south side. Halfway along this lane there is a small place to park one car next to a gate with a boulder beside it.
As this is now under a Countryside Stewardship Scheme there is access, via a kissing gate into the north west section of the hill fort. There were obvious signs of cattle being grazed here. The ground is gently sloping and was pretty firm (not generally boggy), so it might be something a person with mobility problems could still visit, if they can negotiate the kissing gate.
The modern farm building at the crown of the hill acts like a hub of a wheel with the hill fort effectively being divided into four quarters by field walls/hedges.
The best preserved section is the south west section with quite a large bank and a small ditch. The north west section (near where you come in) has quite a substantial ditch but no obvious bank.
So, not much to see really, but still a nice position (with good views all around) and fortunately under good management and suffering very little from potential harm from the nearby A38 and A30.
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Higher Longbeak Barrow - 29.3.2004
Although there is a small layby close to the barrow at Higher Longbeak, it's on the brow of the hill and might be a bit difficult to get out of. It's more sensible to park at the free car park right next to the barrow at Lower Longbeak, just north of Widemouth Bay.
This barrow lies on the edge of the Higher Longbeak headland, 700 m further up the coastal path from the first barrow. The walk between the two is pleasant but undulating, and the path is ragged in places, so it might not be suitable for some people with limited mobility.
The barrow is probably the 'lump' covered in thick black undergrowth to the west of the path, but it could possibly be the gorse covered lump to the east of the path. It's not clear to me.
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My real name is Martin, but there is already a Martin vigorously posting on this fantastic web site so I decided to use 'Pure Joy'; which was the title of the Teardrop Explodes and Julian Cope fanzine that I set up in 1988 and ran until 1991/2. Strangely my interest in ancient sites pre-dates the knowledge that Julian was also into them. However Julian's book has certainly led me to visit more, and plan holidays and pit-stops around places to visit! Studying History (and International Relations) at Uni and coming from the West Country led to a healthy fascination with ancient sites and the countryside.
I was born in 1970 in Colerne, a historic village between Bath and Chippenham (mentioned in the Domesday Book) and have spent time in Bath, Reading, Manchester, West Africa, and Ethiopia. I'm currently living near London, but itching to live in the countryside, preferably Cornwall, or Africa. Reality check! little money and inertia creep.
Most of my working life has been in the voluntary sector, usually by supporting voluntary and community groups with advice and information. I enjoy doing quite a bit of voluntary work with our Credit Union, and as an elected Council member of the National Trust.
I'm no photography expert but I like to take photos (nearly always black and white) of places I visit. Some of the earlier ones looked good but it was only with a £25 point and shoot camera that was amazing unreliable. I've now got an old Pentax SLR, but at the moment I refuse to use filters and special effects. You get what you see.
Up side of ancient site = the sense of history, the countryside, the walk, the sense of adventure, the tranquillity, and the weird things that sometimes happen.
Downside = the loneliness, territorial cows, and the cravings to get back to the countryside
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