Rhiannon

Rhiannon

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Folklore

Ardmarnock
Chambered Cairn

Leslie Grinsell recorded that this chambered cairn was a spot where St Marnock (or Marnoch) used to retire to for a bit of devotion, fasting and penance.

(’Folklore of Prehistoric Sites in Britain’ 1976)

Link

Devil’s Den
Chambered Tomb
Read Book Online

Thomas Hardy set his short story ‘What the Shepherd Saw’ at the Devil’s Den (or the Devil’s Door, as he called it).

“To the south, in the direction of the young shepherd’s idle gaze, there rose one conspicuous object above the uniform moonlit plateau, and only one. It was a Druidical trilithon, consisting of three oblong stones in the form of a doorway, two on end, and one across as a lintel. Each stone had been worn, scratched, washed, nibbled, split, and otherwise attacked by ten thousand different weathers; but now the blocks looked shapely and little the worse for wear, so beautifully were they silvered over by the light of the moon.”

Link

Liddington Castle
Hillfort
Evans Experientialism

Richard Jefferies wrote about Liddington Castle in his ‘Story of My Heart’ – and you may concur with his sentiments.

“By the time I had reached the summit I had entirely forgotten the petty circumstances and the annoyances of existence. I felt myself, myself.”

Folklore

Cryd Tudno
Rocking Stone

On the Southern slopes of the Orme, overlooking the town of Llandudno, there is an area known as Pen Dinas, where are the remains of a prehistoric settlement. Close by, on the edge of a precipice, lies a large rectangular stone. It is known as the Rocking Stone and a metal plaque may be seen attached to the stone, to this effect. Legend tells us that the Druids used the Rocking Stone as a means of proving the guilt or innocence of criminals. The poor, trembling creature was made to stand on the stone. If the accused was able to make it rock, they were deemed to be innocent, but if the stone stood firm, the guilty wretch was thrown over the cliff to be broken on the rocks below. There are many sources for this story, some saying that the stone still rocks and others insisting that it will not move. Could it be that the stone still possesses the power to judge guilt or innocence?

From Eve Parry’s ‘Mysterious Mountain’ article
ldsts.co.uk/id145.htm

Folklore

Maiden Castle (Ullswater)
Hillfort

Marjorie Rowling’s book ‘The Folklore of the Lake District‘ (1976) includes a story by the Reverend Isaac Todd (born in Wreay in 1797). He gives ‘Caerthannoc’ as an alternative name for Maiden Castle, and explains that a tower was built there by a king to safeguard his daughter. He was a particularly protective parent because a wicked fairy had foretold (or promised?) the poor girl’s death by drowning one day. The king thought he’d cracked it as she’d grown up safe inside the tower, well away from Ullswater – but of course he hadn’t counted on the fact that teenage girls will always find a way to sneak out and see their boyfriends. One night she was climbing out of her window intending to elope with the young man once and for all – but she fell in an ungainly fashion upside down into a water butt, and drowned, just as the fairy had predicted. You can’t go cheating fate.

Folklore

Moel yr Eglwys
Cairn(s)

I feel that this cairn ought to be the mound referred to in this story, taken from ‘The Welsh Fairy Book’ by W. Jenkyn Thomas (1908) – online at the sacred-texts archive
sacred-texts.com/neu/celt/wfb/index.htm

There is no end of treasure hidden in the mountains of Wales, but if you are not the person for whom it is intended, you will probably not find it. Even if you do find it, you will not be able to secure it, unless it is destined for you.

There is a store of gold in a hillock near Arenig Lake, and Silvanus Lewis one day took his pickaxe and shovel to find it. No sooner had he commenced to dig in earnest than he heard a terrible, unearthly noise under his feet. The hillock began to rock like a cradle, and the sun clouded over until it became pitch dark. Lightning flashes began to shoot their forked streaks around him and pealing thunders to roar over his head. He dropped his pickaxe and hurried helter-skelter homewards to Cnythog. Before he reached there everything was beautifully calm and serene. But he was so frightened that he never returned to fetch his tools. Many another man has been prevented in the same way from continuing his search.

Miscellaneous

Lansdown

On the Lansdown sun disc, from volume 11 of the Proceedings of the Bath Nat.Hist. and Antiq. Field Club (1906).

We collected with the greatest care every piece, however small, that could be found. Much of the gold plating, notwithstanding all the precautions we took, was blown away or lost, but enough at any rate remains even now to establish the fact that it was so plated.

So the disc was actually gold-plated bronze (contrary to my misplaced understanding that it was pure gold – still at 6 inches diameter that would have been unlikely..). It was found in one of the barrows about 200yds NW of the ‘Roman Camp’.

archive.org/stream/proceedingsofbat11bath#page/12/mode/1up
This includes a photograph of the fragments.

Miscellaneous

Jug’s Grave
Cairn(s)

According volume 52 of the Wiltshire Archaeological Magazine (1947/8) a golden ‘sun disc’ was found at Jug’s Grave. It was about 2 1/2cm in diameter and made from two pieces of gold foil beaten together. It was decorated with an equal-armed cross in the centre, each arm being made of six dots. The cross was enclosed by two circles, the space between the circles having 60 short marks. The marks were impressed from the front, while the crosses and circles were pressed in from the back of the foil. The magazine mentions that a similar disc was found at the fabulous Whitesheet Hill, Mere, by Colt Hoare (conveniently down the road from his house), and this had 80 rim dots. And then of course there was the more elaborate gold ‘sun disc’ found in a Lansdown barrow.

Folklore

Cadbury Castle (South Cadbury)
Hillfort

According to Berta Lawrence, in ‘Somerset Legends’ (1975), young people used to come to Arthur’s well to drink because it would ‘make their dreams come true’; and while they were about it they would carve their initials on the nearby trees. The water is particularly magical on St John’s Eve (that is, the midsummer solstice), because a true-hearted person who bathes their eyes in the well then might see the hill open up and glimpse Arthur and his men sleeping inside.

The book also mentions proof that the hill is indeed hollow – when the inside of the enclosure was cultivated, a barley stack near one of the entrances sank below the surface of the earth before it could be threshed. Very peculiar, apparently.

Folklore

The King’s Seat
Round Barrow(s)

[Fairies] have been seen serenading round the West slope of Tara, dressed in ancient Irish costumes.. these races are warlike and given to making invasions. Long processions of them have been seen going round the King’s Chair (an earthwork on which the Kings of Tara are said to have been crowned) and they would appear like soldiers of ancient Ireland in review.

An anecdote from John Boylin, in ‘The fairy faith in Celtic Countries’ by W Y Evans Wentz (1911).

Folklore

The Hoar Stone
Chambered Tomb

The Danes came from Northamptonshire, and they are reputed to have been told that they should come to see the Hoarstone (seven miles SSE of Rollrich) they would be lords of England. Hook norton, the entrenched position of the Saxons, was stormed by the Danes.. The Saxon defeat was very severe, but the battle seems to have checked the Danish advance.

p29 in ‘Our Ancient Monuments and the Land Around Them’ by Charles P Kains-Jackson, 1880.

Miscellaneous

Knap Hill
Causewayed Enclosure

You will be unsurprised to hear that the track you can see beneath you when you sit on Knap Hill*, called Workway Drove, has an ancient name. Its name is mentioned in a 13thC document as ‘Warckweye’, probably deriving from the earlier Saxon ‘Weorc weg’, meaning the road by the stronghold – ie Knap Hill (according to Timperley in his ‘Vale of Pewsey’ 1954).

*the one that eventually becomes the road forming the car park, crossing over the Ridgeway path here.

Miscellaneous

Giant’s Grave (Milton Hill)
Long Barrow

Dr Thurnham wrote:

During the summer of 1865 I had an opportunity of opening a long barrow of great extent on Fyfield Hill near Pewsey, Wiltshire, locally known as the ‘Giant’s Grave’. A moderately wide trench runs along each side but is not continued round the ends of the barrow. On the natural level near the east end a heap of 3 or 4 skeletons was found, the only perfect skull from which is of a remarkably long and narrow form.. One of the other skulls had been forcibly cleft before burial. The only object of antiquity with the skulls was a finely chipped arrowhead of flint of a beautiful leaf shape. The point of its more tapering extremity was broken off when found. It has been measured 2” in length by 9/10” in breadth.

quoted in ‘The Vale of Pewsey’ by H W Timperley, 1954.

Folklore

Craig-y-Ddinas (Pontneddfechan)
Promontory Fort

Another story connected to the site:

“This,” said the narrator, [being a story about Gitto Bach] “made me more anxious than ever to see the fairies,” and his wish was gratified by a gipsy, who directed him to find a four-leaved clover, and put it with nine grains of wheat on the leaf of a book which she gave him. She then desired him to meet her next night by moonlight on the top of Craig y Dinis. She there washed his eyes with the contents of a phial which she had, and he instantly saw thousands of fairies, all in white, dancing to the sounds of numerous harps. They then placed themselves on the edge of the hill, and sitting down and putting their hands round their knees, they tumbled down one after another, rolling head-over-heels till they disappeared in the valley.

The next anecdote is told by another person present, about the Vale of Neath, so I feel sure this is the right Craig y Ddinas. From ‘The Fairy Mythology’ by Thomas Keightley
[1870], on line at the sacred texts archive.
sacred-texts.com/neu/celt/tfm/tfm163.htm

[to be replaced with the source]

Miscellaneous

Foel Fynyddau
Cairn(s)

“This landscape is not entirely understood and exhibits a wealth of unique, interesting and puzzling monuments from almost all periods of human history. The importance and significance of this landscape cannot be underestimated. Numerous Bronze Age cairns, singularly, in pairs and in cemeteries, adorn the elevated slopes of Mynydd y Gaer and Foel Fynyddau signifying the importance of this area as a funerary and ritual landscape. ”

from the Neath Port Talbot landscape assessment at
npt.gov.uk/media/9005/spg_landmap_landscape_assessment_2004.pdf

Folklore

Castle Ditches (Llantwit Major)
Promontory Fort

The Castle Ditches are part of some Iron Age defensive earthworks on the coast near Llantwit Major – some of the enclosure has probably fallen into the sea.
Marie Trevelyan mentions them in ‘Folk lore and folk stories of Wales’ (1909):

Among the places in South Glamorgan where the latest Beltane fires were kindled [was..] Llantwit Major between 1837 and 1840. The following information with reference to the Beltane fires was given me in these words:

” The fire was done in this way: Nine men would turn their pockets inside out, and see that every piece of money and all metals were off their persons. Then the men went into the nearest woods, and collected sticks of nine different kinds of trees. These were carried to the spot where the fire had to be built. There a circle was cut in the sod, and the sticks were set crosswise. All around the circle the people stood and watched the proceedings. One of the men would then take two bits of oak, and rub them together until a flame was kindled. This was applied to the sticks, and soon a large fire was made. Sometimes two fires were set up side by side. These fires, whether one or two, were called coelcerth, or bonfire. Round cakes of oatmeal and brown meal were split in four, and placed in a small flour-bag, and everybody present had to pick out a portion. The last bit in the bag fell to the lot of the bag-holder. Each person who chanced to pick up a piece of brown-meal cake was compelled to leap three times over the flames, or to run thrice between the two fires, by which means the people thought they were sure of a plentiful harvest. Shouts and screams of those who had to face the ordeal could be heard over so far, and those who chanced to pick the oatmeal portions sang and danced and clapped their hands in approval, as the holders of the brown bits leaped three times over the flames, or ran three times between the two fires. As a rule, no danger attended these curious celebrations, but occasionally somebody’s clothes caught fire, which was quickly put out. The greatest fire of the year was the eve of May, or May 1, 2, or 3. The Midsummer Eve fire was more for the harvest. Very often a fire was built on the eve of November. The high ground near the Castle Ditches at Llantwit Major, in the Vale of Glamorgan, was a familiar spot for the Beltane on May 3 and on Midsummer Eve.

Folklore

Llanhamlach
Standing Stone / Menhir

As Elderford hints, perhaps this stone is a bit young. The coflein record doesn’t commit itself to any period but does admit the stone is on the line of an allegedly Roman road. Still, the romans had to put their roads somewhere. Marie Trevelyan calls the stone ‘Maen yr Ast’, contracted to ‘Mannest’ – or ‘The Bitch Stone’, presumably alluding, like a number of other names, to greyhounds (and perhaps Ceridwen taking the form of a greyhound?)
On Coflein its alternative name is the Peterstone; Peterstone Court lies across the road.

(M. Trevelyan, ‘Folk lore and Folk Stories of Wales’, 1909)

Volunteers needed to record rock art

Rock Art project officer Tertia Barnett said: “It is
fascinating work and we are uncovering more all the time. Help from volunteers has been invaluable so far and we are looking to recruit more.”

The one-day training programme is at County Hall, Morpeth on October 21 and anyone interested is asked to contact Tertia on (01670) 533076 or [email protected]

The volunteers will be working in small teams using a range of methods to document the rock art, including a ground-breaking 3D technique developed for the project by English Heritage that will allow the carvings to be viewed and studied in great detail.

from Berwick Today
berwicktoday.co.uk/ViewArticle2.aspx?SectionID=970&ArticleID=1196540

Folklore

Garth Hill
Round Barrow(s)

Halfway up the Garth Mountain, near Cardiff, a woman robed in green used to appear. She beckoned to men who passed, but they did not heed her. Two men at last ventured to listen to what she said, which was that she guarded hoards of gold, and could not move, but she wished to be released. They should have the treasure if they set her free. If they did not release her then, there would not be a man born for the next hundred years who could set her free. The men whispered to each other, wondering if her tale were true. One of the men, looking down at her feet, said “True enough. Her slippers are covered with gold-dust.” The woman suddenly vanished, but for a long time her sobs and wailings were heard.

Marie Trevelyan, ‘Folk lore and Folk stories of Wales’ (1909).

Link

Merlin’s Hill
Hillfort
Merlin's Hill Centre

The Merlin’s Hill Centre have designed nature trails that lead you up onto the fort. Also, choose ‘Merlin’ from their index for a drawing of the fort in the Iron Age complete with pointy roundhouses, and the river winding through the valley below.

Folklore

Merlin’s Hill
Hillfort

The Coflein record says that “A single massive rampart crowns a visually distinctive, flat-topped hill, creating a roughly triangular enclosure, about 300m east-west by 180m.” Visually distinctive eh, catching the eye of those folk and their stories. Marie Trevelyan tells us:

Merlin’s Cave is in Merlin’s Hill, above the secluded village of Abergwilli, near Carmarthen. Old stories state that Merlin is held there in bonds of enchantment by Nimue-Vivien, and it was firmly believed in the eighteenth century that the celebrated magician could be heard at certain seasons of the year bewailing his folly in allowing a woman to learn his secret spell.

Folk stories and Folk lore of Wales (1909).

Folklore

Lligwy
Dolmen / Quoit / Cromlech

A strange mix of symbolism in this story.

Arthur’s Quoit, at Lligwy, near Moelfre, in Anglesea, is one of the stones of a cromlech once very important, and to it curious stories were formerly attached. A fisherman going down to the sea was overtaken by a storm, and halted to shelter beside Arthur’s Quoit. When the rain was over, he looked towards the sea, and felt sure that somebody was struggling in the water. He hastened to the shore, and then discovered that a woman with very long dark hair was endeavouring to swim to land; but the ground swell was very strong, and each attempt proved unavailing.

The fisherman, fearless of the sea*, sprang in, and bore the swimmer to the shore, only just to escape a dangerous roller. The man observed that the woman was beautifully robed in white, and had jewelled bracelets on her arms. After squeezing the water out of her garments, she asked him to assist her to the “huge stone”, meaning Arthur’s Quoit. He did so, and while she sat to rest against the stone he noticed she was very beautiful and youthful. The man was about to ask her how she came to be in such peril, but she anticipated his question with a harsh voice, by no means in keeping with her beauty.

“Ha ha!” she cried. “If I had been swimming in my usual raiment, you would have allowed me to sink. I am a witch, and was thrown off a ship in Lligwy Bay; but I disguised myself, and was rescued.”

The man shrank back in terror, fearing the woman would bewitch him. “Don’t be frightened,” said the witch; “one good turn deserves another. Here, take this.” In the palm of her hand she held a small ball. “It is for you,” she said, “and as long as you keep it concealed in a secret place where nobody can find it, good luck will be yours. Once a year you must take it out of hiding and dip it in the sea, then safely return it to its place of concealment. But remember, if it is lost, misfortune will follow.”

The fisherman took the ball and thanked the witch, who gravely said: “That ball contains a snake-skin.” Then she vanished mysteriously. But an hour later he saw her leaping from rock to rock in Lligwy Bay, where a boat was waiting for her, and in it she sailed away. Returning to Arthur’s Quoit, the fisherman thought he could do no better than conceal the ball in a deep hole which he dug close beside the great stone which was reputed to be haunted, and accordingly avoided. He did this, and once a year he took it from concealment and dipped it in the sea. The ball was carefully preserved, and the family had remarkable runs of luck. But one evening when the fisherman went to look for the ball, it was nowhere to be found. He searched for many days, but without avail, and at last gave up his search as hopeless. Somebody evidently discovered his secret, and had stolen the precious ball.

Several years passed, during which time misfortune pursued the fisherman. At the end of that period a dying neighbour confessed to the theft of the ball, and restored it to its lawful owner. Good luck was at once restored to the family. When the fisherman died, he bequeathed it to his eldest son, who carefully preserved it. In the first half of the nineteenth century the fisherman’s eldest son, accompanied by his only brother, started for Australia, where they eventually made large fortunes. A descendant in the female line of the old fisherman considered the ball one of her most precious treasures, and carefully preserved it in her far-away home in India. It was last heard of about forty years ago.

From Marie Trevelyan’s “Folk lore and Folk Stories of Wales” (1909).

*surely not something a fisherman would be. In fact, many could not swim??

Miscellaneous

Mayburgh Henge
Henge

The faithful Page he mounts his steed,
And soon he cross’d green Irthing’s mead,
Dash’d o’er Kirkoswald’s verdant plain,
And Eden barr’d his course in vain.
He pass’d red Penrith’s Table Round,
For feats of chivalry renown’d.
Left Mayburgh’s mound and stones of power,
By Druid’s raised in magic hour,
And traced the Eamont’s winding way,
Till Ulfo’s lake beneath him lay.

A verse from Sir Walter Scott’s poem “The Bridal Of Triermain.”

Miscellaneous

Marden Henge (and Hatfield Barrow)
Henge

From ‘The Ancient History of Wiltshire’ by Sir Richard Colt Hoare – with an excerpt from his 1809 journal, giving more details about the downfall of the barrow. Silbury pokers be warned.

The enormous tumulus.. called HATFIELD BARROW, is situated on the East side of the area; it is of a circular form, and has a deep and wide ditch around it, which in winter is nearly full of water, although the soil consists of a greenish sand.* From having been some time in tillage, the height is probably decreased some feet; its elevation about the floor of the barrow (viz. the original soil) is at present twenty two feet and a half..

We began our operations by making a large square opening in the centre, but the tumulus being composed of sand, which continually slipped down, we afterwards carried our section in the form of an inverted cone. When at the depth of about twenty two feet on the east side of the section, and eighteen on the west side, we came to the bottom of the barrow, but from the heavy masses of sand that still continued to slip down, several days elapsed before we could clear the space of about 23 by 24ft of the floor.

... but alas! notwithstanding all our energy and exertions, we were doomed to remain in ignorance respecting the original destination of this gigantic barrow; and fortunately had not (added to our disappointment [sic?]) to regret the loss of several of our labourers, who most providentially escaped an untimely end by having been called off from their work by Mr Cunnington, at a time when the soil of the barrow appeared sound, but proved otherwise by falling in very shortly after the men had quitted their labours...

On revisiting this ground in the autumn of the year 1818, I had the unexpected mortification to find, that the great barrow had been completely levelled to the ground, and no signs remained of its previous existence.

Mortification indeed.

Folklore

The Whispering Knights
Burial Chamber

Dr Stukeley tells a tale of a repentant Vandal, who having carried off one of the biggest stones to help make a bridge, saw a vision – and, being smitten with remorse, returned the stone to its original group.

Yes, but what did he See? Leave out the interesting bit why don’t you. Perhaps there’s more in the original, if anyone knows it.

Quote from ‘Our Ancient Monuments and the Land Around Them’ by CP Kains-Jackson (1880).

Folklore

Dunino Den
Sacred Well

Time travel at the Den?

Some years ago, when many of the roads in the east of Fife were still used but by few, a visitor to the district.. resolved to make a detour to visit [Dunino Church]. A somewhat rough track leads down to a bridge.. and a broad and well-made path , cut in the hillside [climbs] among the trees to the kirk and the manse. Leaving this for the moment he continued on the level track round the flank of the hill, and saw before him on thefarther side of the stream a picturesque hamlet. Some of the cottages were thatched, some tiled; but all were covered in roses and creepers.. At the east end.. a smithy closed the prospect, save for the trees that shut out the further windings of the Den.

No sound broke the stillness of the summer noon but the flow of the burn. At one or two of the doors there stood an old man in knee-breeches and broad bonnet, or a woman in a white mutch and a stuff gown, while in the entrance to the forge the smith leant motionless on his hammer... Half in a dream he turned and climbed to the church.. No sense of the abnormal had occurred to the intruder..

A year elapsed ere the wanderer came thither again.. This time he was accompanied by a companion to whom he had told the story of his glimpse of ‘the most old-world hamlet in Fife’... they prepared to sketch the Arcady to be revealed. The cottages were gone. The burn flowed through the Den as when last he saw it, but its farther bank was bare...

.. The author is informed on excellent authority that there were at one time at least three or four cottages and a blacksmith’s shop at the place described. It is said these were taken down “some time last century.”

Edited from Wilkie’s 1931 ‘Bygone Fife’, quoted in K Briggs’ ‘British Folktales and Legends’ (1977).

Rare Iron Age Burial Found on Skye

Archaeologists believe they have uncovered the first Iron Age burial on the Isle of Skye.

The skeleton from about the 1st millennium BC is thought to be that of a young female. It was found recently in an open stone-lined grave as the archaeologists worked to re-open the blocked entrance to the High Pasture Cave.

The discovery is extremely rare. Iron Age burial sites have been found in several locations on the east coast of Scotland, but this is among the few occurrences along the country’s Atlantic seacoast and the first on Skye.

“The discovery of the human remains at the High Pasture’s site is a very important find and will provide a unique opportunity to study a wide range of aspects of Iron Age life and death in the region,” said George Kozikowski, a member of the High Pasture Cave Project.

This article: heritage.scotsman.com/news.cfm?id=1907512005
Also see the news item below, and the website at
high-pasture-cave.org/

Link

Woodbury Hill
Hillfort
Bere Regis Village Website

Lots of information about the five day September fair that used to be held inside Woodbury fort – the largest in southern England, attracting thousands of visitors each day and drawing traders from as far afield as Birmingham, Norwich, Exeter, Bristol and London. It is known to have already existed in the 1200s and continued until the middle of the 20th century.

Miscellaneous

Knap Hill
Causewayed Enclosure

Reading the new-agish ‘Legendary Landscapes’ by J D Wakefield (1999) I came across a photo of the ‘Devil’s Trackway’. Apparently it is a “strange serpentine bank and ditch that leads down the entire facade of the south side of [Knap Hill], descending the most precipitous part of the escarpment into the vale.”

When the Cunningtons excavated Knap Hill in 1908/9 they noticed how it was difficult to see close-up, but showed up at a distance. Mrs C saw it following the curve of the hill at the top and then descending straight down (apparently in WAM 37 – 1912). It was known by her local workers:

From the road up Alton Hill it can be seen well and looks like a wide cart track, and locally it is known as the ‘Devil’s Trackway’. Our labourers knew it well by sight, but appeared to think it a kind of optical delusion that vanished at close quarters, and were much interested when the actual bank was pointed out to them. It was suggested that the bank might be merely the result of levelling to make a pathway, possibly down to the nearest water, but the hill is so steep at this point as to make this very improbable, if not indeed impracticable.

The markings are quite clear on the photos in Wakefield’s book (p25/26), and actually you can see it well on the Viewfinder photo linked to below. (He/she gives the line a serpenty / goddess-umbilical cord style theory, but does anyone know a modern archaeological interpretation? Is it something prehistoric? It’s certainly unusual as it can’t be a non-devilish trackway, the way it’s careering off down that perilous slope. Is there some relevance that the Viewfinder caption says “There is little knowledge why the earthworks on the southern side of the escarpment are missing” – the south side being the very side that the Trackway cuts across?)

***

As MJB explains in the thread here
themodernantiquarian.com/forum/?thread=26574
the trackway actually is the traces of the method used in medieval times to transport quarried chalk down into the valley below.

Folklore

Bindon Hill
Hillfort

Just recently an officer told me quite seriously that he could vouch for the fact that on certain nights a phantom Roman army marches along Bindon Hill to their camp on King’s Hill. The thud of the trampling of horses and men is plainly heard and their indistinct forms seen as the fog drifts. On those nights no rabbits run and no dog can be induced to go near... one wonders if at any time an army lost its bearings in the fog and went over the very abrupt cliff which borders this hill...

Quote from ‘Dorset, up along and down along’, ed. Marianne R Dacombe (1935), p113.

Folklore

Trent Barrow
Ancient Village / Settlement / Misc. Earthwork

More on Purejoy’s pool:

Beside Trent Barrow near Sherborne is an old pit full of water and so deep that no one has ever been able to measure its depth and it is called the ‘bottomless pit’. One dark and stormy night a coach, horses, driver and passengers plunged into the pit and disappeared, leaving no trace behind. But passersby along the road may still hear, in stormy weather, the sound of galloping horses and wailing voices borne by them on the wind.

(From ‘Dorset, up along and down along’, ed. M R Dacombe (1935)).

Folklore

Poundbury Hillfort
Hillfort

Poundbury used to be stocked on May Day (this being the commoners’ rights). “Dorchester folk were wont in olden time, it is said, to go forth to its flowery and airy sward a-maying and to drink syllybub of fresh milk.”

Ah the rural idyll.

Quote from ‘Dorsetshire Folklore’ by John Symonds Udal (1922).

Miscellaneous

The Hellstone
Dolmen / Quoit / Cromlech

It may not be out of place to observe that this interesting megalithic monument has been lately ‘restored’ by Mr Manfield, assisted by Mr M Tupper of ‘Proverbial’ celebrity, who have rearranged the stones (for there are seven in all, the largest being about eight feet square, of very hard conglomerate) according to their own sweet will!

ooh – catty.

From: Dorset Folk-Lore
J. J. Foster
The Folk-Lore Journal, Vol. 6, No. 2. (1888), pp. 115-119.

Folklore

Bulbury Camp
Hillfort

According to the information on Magic, this roughly circular univallate hillfort overlooks Poole harbour (though how the coastline differed in prehistory I can’t say). One end of it is now built on with farm buildings.

From Dorset Folk-Lore, by J. J. Foster, in The Folk-Lore Journal, Vol. 6, No. 2. (1888), pp. 115-119.:

Some years a go several metal objects were found in a Keltic earthwork. Among them was a curious little grotesque bull, with a quaint tail curled up, which makes it somewhat like a dog. My friend heard that these things were in the hands of a certain old woman, and offered to buy them. “Han’t got ‘em – used to’t – but there, ‘twere loike this yer. My poor buoy, he wer terble bad, and he pined like a’ter they wold things. And ther – I thought myself how thick brass dog a noul’d ouver door’d do en a power o’ good.” And ‘noul’d ouver door’ it was found.

This remarkable find.. is fully described in Archaeologia v48, where the objects are figured... it’s use as recently as 1881 as a prophylactic is surely an interesting fact to students of folk-lore.

Ah yes those Victorians middleclass intellectuals loved to imitate a quaint rural accent.

Folklore

Marleycombe Hill
Round Barrow(s)

A golden coffin is buried somewhere on the Downs at Bowerchalke. It was stolen from one of the Britons’ Barrows. The theft was discovered, and the coffin had to be hidden. At certain seasons seven men may be seen dragging the coffin over the Downs.

From Olivier/Edwards’ “Moonrakings” (c1920) – a story they collected from a local WI member.

There are seven round barrows on the hill, and other earthworks, no doubt some of which are visible from the village below.

Folklore

Vernditch Chase North
Long Barrow

Two similar versions of the story, from Edith Olivier / Margaret Edwards’ “Moonrakings – A Little Book of Wiltshire Stories” (c1920).

“Some time, before the memory of living man can definitely fix, a suicide was buried [here].. Legend has it that a girl from Bowerchalke, finding life too sad, drowned herself in a well near the churchyard.,” the lane by the well being called ‘Skit’s Lane’.
“No bird is ever heard to sing there [at Kit’s Grave].”
This version, told by Mrs John Butler, seemed confused as to whether the girl was buried there because she was a suicide and required unconsecrated ground, or whether it was because no parish would claim her (even though she’d specifically mentioned Bowerchalke!) so she was buried where three parishes met. Whatever, the theme of the weird nature of ‘boundaries’ clearly comes through.

The second version (p74) tells that “An old gypsy woman who used to frequent the Chalke valley was found in a well near Bowerchalke church. It was thought she had committed suicide, so she was taken and buried at the crossroads at night, with a stake through her heart. An avenue of trees leads to the spot, and no bird is ever heard to sing there. (This is indeed a very weird, eerie spot).”

Rather extreme measures (stakes through the heart at midnight) but I suppose you can’t have these dead people wandering. I wonder whether there is any significance in the well being near the church: is it too much to read into it that it was a holy well? An inconsiderate and strange place to pick to kill yourself in.

Miscellaneous

Giant’s Grave (Martinsell)
Promontory Fort

In the 18th century there was a summerhouse on the Giant’s Grave promontory, and in 1806 Colt Hoare wrote: “From the Summer House observe the finest view in Wiltshire.”

(Quoted by K Watts in ‘The Marlborough Downs’ 1993).

Folklore

Martinsell
Hillfort

On Palm Sunday, it was the custom, some years ago, for everyone in the village to visit Martinsell which is within easy walking distance. Here a Fair was held. Recruiting was also carried on at this Fair, at the last of which a local lad ‘joined up’ and afterwards served in the Russian War, taking part in the siege of Sebastapol. This fair was stopped about the year 1860. Since then religious services have been held on Martinsell on Palm Sunday. A Feast Day was always made of the Monday following Trinity Sunday, when a fair was held; but now for more than 20 years this has not been observed.

From ‘Moonrakings’ by E. Olivier and M. Edwards (c1920), p65.

Folklore

Wandlebury
Hillfort

The story of the ghostly knight at Wandlebury is told by Gervase of Tilbury, who was born c1150.

“Osbert, a bold and powerful baron, visited a noble family in the vicinity of Wandelbury, in the bishopric of Ely. Among other stories related in the social circle of his friends, who, according to custom, amused each other by repeating ancient tales and traditions, he was informed, that if any knight, unattended, entered an adjacent plain by moonlight, and challenged an adversary to appear, he would be immediately encountered by a spirit in the form of a knight. Osbert resolved to make the experiment, and set out, attended by a single squire, whom he ordered to remain without the limits of the plain, which was surrounded by an ancient entrenchment. On repeating the challenge, he was instantly assailed by an adversary, whom he quickly unhorsed, and seized the reins of his steed. During this operation, his ghostly opponent sprung up, and, darting his spear, like a javelin, at Osbert, wounded him in the thigh. Osbert returned in triumph with the horse, which he committed to the care of his servants. The horse was of a sable colour, as well as his whole accoutrements, and apparently of great beauty and vigour. He remained with his keeper till cockcrowing, when, with eyes flashing fire, he reared, spurned the ground, and vanished. On disarming himself, Osbert perceived that he was wounded, and that one of his steel boots was full of blood. Gervase adds, that as long as he lived, the scar of his wound opened afresh on the anniversary of the eve on which he encountered the spirit.”

I haven’t found the original but this is a retelling by Sir Walter Scott in ‘Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border’ , on line at the Tam Lin website.
tam-lin.org/texts/scott.html

Folklore

Berwick Law
Hillfort

Well I don’t know how good your Middle Scottish is, but this is the tale of Gyre Carling, a giant witch /earth mother /that sort of thing. It’s not for the delicate minded.

In Tyberius tyme, the trew imperatour,
Quhen Tynto hills fra skraiping of tour-henis was keipit,
Thair dwelt ane grit Gyre Carling in awld Betokis bour,
That levit upoun Christiane menis flesche, and rewheids unleipit ;
Thair wynit ane hir by, on the west syde, callit Blasour,
For luve of hir Iauchane lippis he walit and he weipit ;
He gadderit ane menzie of modwartis to warp doun the tour;
The Carling with ane yren club, quhen yat Blasour sleipit,
Behind the heil scho hat him sic ane blaw,
Quhil Blasour bled ane quart
Off milk pottage inwart,
The Carling luche, and lut fart
North Berwik Law.

.. from which I gather her neighbour fancied her and sent some moles to undermine her house – but she bashed him over the head and laughed so much she farted out North Berwick Law. Ahem.

The rest of the anonymous poem is written in the ‘Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border’ by Sir Walter Scott, online at the Tam Lin pages:
tam-lin.org/texts/scott.html

Folklore

Swayne’s Jumps
Standing Stones

According to Berta Lawrence in her ‘Somerset Legends’ (1973) during the civil war there was a man called Jan Swayne who lived in Moorlinch. Found to be a ‘rebel’ he was dragged from his bed to be taken to Bridgwater where he was to be hanged. Somehow he persuaded the troopers who came for him to untie him to show his crying children a last entertainment of how far he could leap (the ‘police’ are always stupid in films today too, so no change). Naturally he took three immense leaps – a hop, skip and a jump – which took him into the impenetrable and swampy Loxley Woods where he could hide safely.

The site of his leaps is known as ‘Swayne’s Jumps’ or ‘Swayne’s Leaps’ and you may find four (or even five) small stones in a line. The Somerset Historic Environment Record mentions them being in the SMR records, but I don’t see a mention on Magic. Perhaps they’re old, perhaps not? In the distant past perhaps this area would have been even boggier. Take your wellingtons and have a look. Apparently an old sign designates the place ‘Jan Swaynes Jumps’.

The folklore is similar to that attached to other pairs or lines of stones (eg the Deerleap Stones).

Folklore

Battlegore
Barrow / Cairn Cemetery

One night during one of their last incursions, the Danes raided and burnt Watchet, and then they streamed inland plundering and burning as they went. The Saxons managed to ambush them at what is now known as Battlegore – many were killed though some escaped back to their ships. The mound at the site has long been called the burial place of the Danes.

According to Berta Lawrence, in ‘Somerset Legends’ (1973).

Folklore

Wick Barrow
Round Barrow(s)

More local stories about the Pixies’ Mound, from Berta Lawrence’s 1973 ‘Somerset Legends’.

The hill was excavated in 1907 but local workmen were not keen to help. Some of those that did lend a hand experienced bad luck or illness – just as many people had predicted – and their wives persuaded them not to return to the work. After dark strange pixy music had been heard, and a circular wall of stones was discovered inside the mound – surely proof of the pixies’ house?

When work was interrupted, some people said King Edward VII himself had stopped it because the excavation was so unlucky. The digging turned up ‘a stone sword as long as a man’s arm’ and ‘a wonderful bronze flagon’ (somewhat exaggerated descriptions of the flint knife and pottery beaker that were found). A crouched skeleton was removed to Taunton museum. Was it Hubba himself (see the folklore at nearby Cynwit Castle)?

Folklore

Cannington Camp
Hillfort

I saw this wooded hill fort from the road; although it doesn’t seem there is access over it, paths do lead around its base.

According to Berta Lawrence in ‘Somerset Legends’ (1973) it was “not many years ago” that people referred to this fort as “the place where they came from Athelney to fight.”

Athelney (not so far away, the opposite side of Bridgwater) is where King Alfred was recuperating after coming off worst with the Danes. And now they were back. Odda spotted their ships from Longstone Hill on the Quantocks and set a beacon fire. He led his men (and one assumes, those from Athelney) to Cynwit Castle, meeting the Danish soldiers at the bottom of the hill, before nipping up into the safety of the camp to think.

When the pagans saw the stronghold unprepared and unguarded except for defenses built after our manner, they did not venture to storm it because from the nature of the ground the place was very secure on every side except on the east, as I myself have seen; instead they began to besiege it, thinking that those men would quickly be forced to surrender because of hunger and thirst, for there was no water near. But it did not turn out as they expected. For the Christians, before they suffered any such straits, prompted by God to believe it much better to win either death or victory, at dawn made an unexpected sortie upon the pagans, and shortly slew most of them, together with their king, only a few escaping to the boats.

(from Bishop Asser’s ‘Life of King Alfred’, quoted at the Medieval Sourcebook.
fordham.edu/halsall/source/asser.html

Lawrence says that 1200 Danes were slaughtered, and were buried together where the modern quarry is now. She adds the ghastly detail that the quarrying left skeletons protruding from the soil and that they were ‘quite a familiar sight to blackberry pickers’! (ugh)

Perhaps this idea of bones comes from a shrine/cemetery on the hill dating possibly from Roman times – see the story about the ‘child of Cannington’ on the Cannington Web Pages here:
members.aol.com/dhatherley/religion/general.htm
It seems that areas of the hill have been quarried into regardless of the fact that they are a  scheduled monument, and the Somerset Historic Env. Record says that the EH boundary markers appear to have been moved. Tsk. What has been lost? The hill has obviously been of great importance over a very long period of time, and finds have been made of pre Iron-Age objects. It’s possible (according to the Cannington web pages) that the quarry may be reopened.

Lawrence adds in her book that the few Danes remaining buried their chief, Hubba, in a mound of his own. Near Chippenham there is Hubbaslow – Chippenham being the site of an earlier battle – but she suggests that everyone knows his burial mound is the one at Wick, next to Hinkley Point power station. (Of course we can say that both mounds are prehistoric and nothing to do with the Danes, though they might have been reused).

Folklore

Dowsborough
Hillfort

Dowsborough hill is replete with all sorts of strange names that beg for explanation: Great Bear, Robin Upright’s Hill, Knacker’s Hole.. One of them (mentioned below), ‘Dead Woman’s Ditch’ is supposed to refer to the murdered wife of John Walford. The place he was left to hang in irons is now called ‘Walford’s Gibbet’. Ruth Tongue collected a little tale about the site from a farmer’s daughter in Cannington.

Arter Walford were ‘anged up there to Dowsburgh, there was a lot o’ talk down to the Castle o’ Comfort Inn, and they got to talking, and then they got to drinking zider and then one vellow getting a bit over-merry, they dared ‘en to go up to Walford’s Gibbet. Well, ‘twere getting late at night, and being over full o’ zider, ‘e said ‘e would, and off ‘e goes. Well no sooner be ‘e out o’ front door than a couple o’ rascals gets out by back door, and straight up over the ‘ill. Laughing to themselves, they come up through the barn and the bushes like, till they come to the foot o’ the gibbet, and they ‘ided in bushes. And bye and bye they ‘ears bootses coming up ‘ill, getting a bit slower like, as they comes nearer to where gibbet was, and they chuckles to theirselves, and then boots comes a bit slower, like, and then, out o’ the air above ‘em comes a voice – “Oh! Idn’t it cold up ‘ere! Be yew cold too?”
Well by the time the vellow with the boots, and they two got down to Castle o’ Comfort, they weren’t cold no more.

You can still visit the Castle of Comfort today, it’s marked ‘hotel’ on the map. But perhaps you’ll only want to walk up to the Walford’s Gibbet during the daylight.

Story copied from ‘English Folktales’ by Briggs and Tongue, 1965.

Neolithic evidence at cave near St Lythans

The remains of seven humans have been found in a large pit in the mouth of a cave on the Goldsland Wood site, near Wenvoe, in the Vale of Glamorgan. The pottery and flint blades found with them date the remains to about 3000 BC.

Archaeology students from the University of Central Lancashire, in Preston, had been digging there as part of their course. “The Goldsland caves have never been excavated before,” said Dr Rick Peterson, the course leader. “We went there hoping to find undisturbed evidence for whatever ritual took place 5000 years ago that led to peoples’ bones being put in caves and we seem to have found it.

“At the moment our understanding of these rituals is that first the large pit was dug, probably to make the small cave mouth look much bigger and more impressive. Then the dead were placed in the pit with some of their possessions such as pottery and stone tools. Then once the bodies had become skeletons it seems that most of the bones were then moved to other ritual sites, like the nearby chambered tomb of St Lythans. The pit containing the ash from a cremation is evidence for a different sort of rite – although it probably took place around the same time.”

The team plan to return to the site in 2006 and excavate a much larger area.

From the BBC news site
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/lancashire/4185966.stm

The wood is at ST108718, along a footpath from the St Lythans dolmen.