Visited 4.6.12
The stone stands in the middle of a field but you really can’t miss it.
The field in which it stands was in crop so I settled for a roadside view so not to cause any damage.
Although the stone lines up with the entrance to Maeshowe it was strangely not mentioned by our guide when we visited Maeshowe later in the evening.
Visited 4.6.12
When I arrived at the site a Historic Scotland ‘Ranger’ was just finishing giving a talk.
During the summer months there are free talks given at both Stenness and Brodgar.
Surely these buildings are related to the stone circle?
Between the building and the loch I noticed two large stones.
One is standing (right on the loch side) and about 1 metre high. It looks old and was covered in lichen.
The other is prostrate and is about 2 metres x 1 metre.
I have not seen any mention of these stones before so I assume they are ‘modern’?
Visited 3.6.12
You come to this site on the way to the tomb (it’s about half way).
I must say that I got a lot more out of this visit after listening to the talk we were given at the visitor centre.
The floor plan of the building is very clear to see.
The burnt mound is right next to it.
View from afar 2.6.12
The O/S map shows ‘Stone Row’ a little north of Cnoc Freiceadain chambered cairns.
I didn’t have time to go tramping over the fields for a close-up look but I thought I may have been able to spot the stones form atop the chambered cairn with the help of my trusty binoculars. Unfortunately I couldn’t make the stones out.
The fields are covered in gorse and generally overgrown.
Canmore states:
‘The stone rows, in a hollow on undulating moorland, are considerably obscured by peat and heather growth. Only half the stones can be traced. The southern stones have been almost entirely buried by the vegetation. The stones appear to radiate from the direction of the two cairns’.
** This report is from 1969 so it doesn’t surprise me I couldn’t see anything.
Visited 2.6.12
A large grass covered mound to the left of a white farmhouse.
Directly across the road from Cnoc Freiceadain chambered cairns.
Canmore states:
‘The mound is 2m high and has been mutilated in the north wand west by excavation and in the south east by a garden extension. It’s regular shape suggests a burial cairn’.
Visited 3.6.12
After visiting the Fossil Museum (with its very nice cafe) and the amazing Italian Chapel (a ‘must see’) I wanted to take a quick look at this ‘ancient village’.
In truth all I saw was a lumpy / bumpy field. I wasn’t expecting much else so I wasn’t disappointed.
Visited 2.6.12
After a very enjoyable hour or so at Banks Chamber Tomb I was really looking forward to my visit to the famous Tomb of the Eagles.
We parked in the large car park and wandered into the visitor’s centre. There were a few people around but not too many. Karen and Sophie looked around the shop whilst myself and Dafydd paid our money and entered a side room where we were given a talk about the site and what had been found. This is also the room which has the finds in glass cases.
The lady giving the talk took some objects out to show us (including the skulls) and we were allowed to hold a few stone items. There were several of us in the room and the talk was very interesting. I was hoping to be able to hold the famous polished ‘button’ but had to settle for looking at it through glass instead.
We then went into another room where we had an interesting talk on the brunt mound and Bronze Age building also discovered. I will certainly give more thought to burnt mounds in future! All questions asked were well answered and all the staff were very friendly.
We then went outside and it was a little daunting to see the sign which said the tomb was 1 mile away – I knew this meant a part-walk / part-carry with Dafydd! Lucky the weather was nice. Dafydd insisted on wearing his ‘burial chamber’ kit – head light and old clothes.
The rest of the group decided to head straight for the tomb but me and Dafydd instead went to visit the Bronze Age building and Liddlell Burnt Mound. This worked well as we ended up have both sites to ourselves. I was able to appreciate the building / burnt mound a lot more after listening to the talk we had just had.
We then walked out to the main attraction and were glad to see everyone else had moved on. Dafydd excitedly lay on the ‘skateboard’ and pulled himself inside. I excitedly followed!
Inside the chamber was light and airy. We took it in turn to peer/crawl into the side chambers and look at the skulls behind the Perspex. Once we had seen enough we pulled ourselves back out of the tomb and walked back to the visitor centre.
Karen and Sophie were patiently waiting for us and chatting to staff, who kindly provided a box of toys to keep her entertained. We looked around the shop and I bought a guide book although in hindsight I wished I had also bought a sweatshirt.
As we were leaving the lady who gave the first talk called us to one side. She said that she and her staff had been very impressed with Dafydd’s behaviour, knowledge and interest in the site. She asked if Dafydd would like a photo holding ‘Jock Tamson’s’ skull? – of course he did!
We went back into the room and the door was closed. Dafydd was handed the skull and was able to hold it (with support from the lady) whilst Karen took some prized photos. I was really impressed by how friendly the staff were and very proud of Dafydd to be recognised this way.
It goes without saying that this is a ’must see’ site for anyone visiting Orkney (although I thought the guide book was a bit pricy at £5.95)
(Don’t forget to visit the nearby Banks Tomb while you are at it. Both sites are fab!)
Visited 3.6.12
Take the turn off for St Peter’s Kirk off the main A961.
When we visited the fields were in crop so I settled for a view from the road which was easy enough given the size of this monster stone.
There are good coastal views to be had from the stone.
Visited 3.6.12
Well I did visit but the church door was locked and I couldn’t get the key as it was a Sunday.
I tried looking through the windows but couldn’t see the stone.
The church is right on the shoreline.
I did have a look around the lovely old grave yard and admired the weather beaten old tombstones covered in the now familiar ‘hairy’ lichen.
I do like an old church / graveyard with character.
Visited 3.6.12
Day 9 of my holiday and my first day on Orkney!
I couldn’t have picked a better place to start my ‘Grand Tour’.
We caught the morning ferry over from Gills (boy was it windy!) and we arrived at Banks late morning. As we pulled up in the car park a lady approached us and asked if we had come for a tour of the chambered cairn? – Which of course we had. Karen stayed in the car with Sophie while Dafydd and myself walked over to the tomb, along with Barbara our guide.
Barbara pulled the wooden board out of the way which was blocking the entrance to the tomb and the 3 of us climbed down backwards. Barbara gave us an overview of the tomb and explained that 3 of the chambers had not yet been excavated but would be this summer.
We then had time to have a look in the chambers which had been excavated. Barbara was excellent with Dafydd and was surprised by his knowledge of burial chambers!
She also said he was the first visitor to the tomb who could walk along the passage without needing to bend down! Dafydd insisted on helping Barbara with her torch.
We then vacated the tomb and were shown into the nearby wooden shed.
Here Barbara carefully took various finds out of a box for us to hold or look at. These included human and animal bones, an antler tool pick and the stones scratched with lines.
We were able to hold the antler tool, a knee bone and the stones but not the leg bone.
It was great to visit a site still under investigation and who knows what they will find when they resume the dig this summer? It only cost £5 for what was in affect a private tour and I have to say that Barbara was excellent with Dafydd – an absolute bargain.
Banks is clearly a ‘work in progress’ in terms of establishing itself as a visitor attraction and it feels a bit ‘rough and ready’ – although I think this only adds to the charm of a visit. I am sure in the future it will be as ‘polished’ as a visit to the nearby Tomb of the Eagles. It is nice to be able to say I visited the site before the ‘polish’ is applied!
This is a top notch place to visit and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Along with the Tomb of the Eagles this is a MUST SEE site on South Ronaldsay.
If you happen to read this Barbara, thanks for helping make our visit such a memorable one.
Visited 2.6.12
There is a tiny Historic Scotland sign pointing the way to the long cairns from the minor road to the east. A wooden stile is helpfully provided to get over the field fence. It is then just a matter of heading up hill until you reach the cairns.
The small information board states the cairns are 5,000 years old. Both cairns are mangled but they are not looking bad for their age! H.S. state the cairns have never been excavated.
Both cairns are large and approximately 2 metres high. There are lots of small stones sticking out of the turf covering the cairns. There are also several large stones – one very large being about 1.5 metres long (part of the passage?)
There are good coastal views from the cairns and it does make you think that perhaps they were sited here to be seen from the sea? Away in the distance a power station and wind farm now dominate the shoreline.
These cairns are impressive but it was getting towards the end of a long day / drive so I don’t think I appreciated them as much as I should have. It’s a long old drive to get up here!
Viewed from road 2.6.12
Easy to spot grass covered mound on spur of land just north of Elphin on the A835
Canmore states:
‘This cairn is on a prominent spur on the north side of a hill summit. The cairn measures 4.1m across. The cist measures 1.1m long x 0.5m x 0.4m deep. The capstone, broken, lies displaced across the cist’.
Visited 2.6.12
The cairn is easily spotted from the road on the other side of a barbed wire fence.
You can park on the grass verge and access to the field is over a locked field gate.
The ruined cairn is on a grassy knoll and is approximately 20 metres across x 1.5 metres high.
There are lots of grey stones sticking out of the grass along with fern and heather.
The weather was sunny with white fluffy clouds and only a slight breeze.
This is a pretty spot with a river close by and mountains in the distance.
Visited 2.6.12
The chambered cairn is easy to spot on the right hand side of the road (if heading north); next to a stream, just before the road goes over a small bridge.
There are two stones still standing – each about 1 metre tall.
There are also 4 large fallen stones and lots of smaller stones scattered about.
Green and white lichen adorn the stones.
This is a lovely setting for a cairn with good views of the mountains in the distance.
Worth a quick visit when in this scenic part of the world.
Visited 2.6.12
Directions:
Approx 2 miles north of Castletown – right next to the A836 – Dunnet Bay side of the road.
This is a coastal area with many large sand dunes part covered in grass. Take your pick which ones the cairns are!
Canmore States:
‘Two sand and turf covered cairns. The one in the east has a loose flat slab, 09m x 0.6m, lying prostrate on its east arc’.
Visited 2.6.12
I thought it was going to be tricky finding this Souterrain but it was actually very easy.
Take the main A838 south east from Durness and as you drive past Loch Eriboll, keep an eye out for a small lay by / passing place on your left with a small modern stone cairn built at each end. There is room to park one car between the cairns and the Souterrain is immediately behind the parking place – probably semi-hidden by ferns.
Despite the weather having been dry for well over a week the stone steps down into the Souterrain were wet. This is easily the wettest underground chamber I have ever visited.
The entrance into the Souterrain is low and narrow – and wet! The stonework is in good condition.
I managed to get about 8 metres into the entrance before being stopped as the passage way was now underwater.
I shone my light into the blackness and would estimate the passage ran for about another 8 metres. I threw a stone into the water to try to estimate the depth but I couldn’t tell. If I had brought my wellies I would have ventured further but I didn’t so I couldn’t!
This is an easy site to visit as long as you park in the right place.
Just make sure you bring your wellies!
Visited 2.6.12
Now, this is what I call remote.
If you think the A838 in Sutherland is remote this is something else!
You have to travel south for a good 10 miles or more along a minor road off the A838.
No houses, no farms, no people – just a loch and a pretty valley to enjoy.
Despite being a Historic Scotland site it is not sign posted which I guess isn’t too surprising when you consider how far away from anyone / anything it is!
Eventually you arrive at the broch (right next to road) where there is a small lay by to park in.
An information board states that the broch has never been excavated.
I was disappointed to find that the doorway is blocked and the whole of the inside of the broch has been infilled and is now covered in grass. All you get to see is the outside.
The walls of the broch are pretty well preserved and stand to a height of about 6 metres.
On the plus side the scenery is lovely (as is everywhere in Sutherland) and the children enjoyed playing by a stream and watching tadpoles and a frog in a large puddle. A cuckoo sang out in the distance.
Driving to the broch I saw one of the strangest things I have ever seen. As I described, this place really is in the middle of nowhere, yet we passed a chap in the middle of the valley floor (full of spiky grass) with a petrol powered grass strimmer! Why on earth he was cutting the grass there I have no idea. He was miles from anyone and anything! Very odd.
Unless like me you are trying visit all the Historic Scotland sites I couldn’t really recommend the long detour off the A838 to visit the broch – although it is a pretty drive.
Visited 2.6.12
Directions:
A short distance north from Lyne chambered cairn. It is visible from the road.
We parked on the grass verge – not a problem in this part of the world.
I walked over to the low, grass covered mound and saw several small stones sticking out of the grass. There’s not really much else to add.
Canmore states:
‘The cairn is no more than 0.8m high. There is no indication of a chamber of any structural feature’.
Visited 2.6.12
Directions:
Approx 2 miles north of Ardvreck castle on the right hand side of the A894.
The cairn sits on top of a steep rise and cannot be seen from the road.
We parked on the grass verge and I clambered up the short but very steep slope to the cairn.
There are 9 large stones forming a rough circle – 5 of the stones are in a group.
The cairn has clearly been dug into at some point in the past and is approx 2 metres high x 5 metres across. It has been cut in half by the road. There is lots of green lichen on the stones.
The cairn occupies a good spot and affords lovely views.It was really pretty when I visited with bluebells, fern and heather in abundance.
It is well worth stopping off for a look at the cairn but it does require a steep climb.
Visited 2.6.12
We parked in the car park for the castle and I carried Sophie over to the castle while Karen stayed in the car with Dafydd who was asleep. The castle is well worth a look over and there was a free information leaflet you could have about the castle’s history.
As for the chambered cairn there are several largish stones to be seen on a small hillock near the castle so access is easy.
This is a scenic spot and the castle / loch / valley all seem to sit in harmony.
A little up the road (north) on the right is a very pretty waterfall which we also stopped at.
Visited 2.6.12
This is a good place to visit if you are ever this far north.
There are parking and toilet facilities and a steep path takes you down to the beach and the cave.
After crossing a little wooden foot bridge you can then walk into the entrance of this massive cave and see / hear the waterfall.
However, if you wish to see further into the cave you have to pay (£4 adult / £2 children) to be taken across the water via dinghy. We decided not to bother as time was against us (we still had a long drive ahead) and the children were happy throwing stones into the little stream. Many noisy birds flew overhead.
It’s a bit of a climb back up to the car park – particularly if you are carrying children!
Visited 1.6.12
My last day on the Western Isles before catching the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool. It is fair to say that I leave Lewis with a heavy heart but I am comforted in the fact that I have more adventures to come.
On the way to Stornoway I can make one last site visit – Druim Dubh.
I am afraid to report that the Halfway garage is now closed, boarded up and starting to fall into disrepair. There is a lot of litter about. It does however still provide a good marker in order to spot the stone circle.
The remaining stones have all fallen and are all about 1 metre in length. The stones occupy a slight rise. Pity they aren’t re-errected.
If you are ever heading to Stornoway (as you do) this ruined circle is well worth a quick look.
Visited 31.5.12
The weather was again sunny with some white fluffy clouds but windy.
I somehow managed to spend a whole week on the Western Isles without seeing any rain – what are the chances?
It was just as well the weather had been kind or otherwise this would have been a very muddy walk from the road to the circle.
The information board states that this site has never been properly excavated and it is not known if this is a circle or cairn?
There are 5 decent sized standing stone with 1 large fallen stone.
Lots of smaller stones scattered all around.
Nearby there is a line of stones which looks like it may be the remains of some sort of enclosure?
There is also a small fenced off area with a ‘mound’ inside – no idea what this is – a cairn perhaps?
Although this is far from being the best stone circle I have seen this week at least it is another Historic Scotland site to tick off the old list – so I’m happy.
Viewed 31.5.12
Easily seen on the walk up to Steinacleit stone circle.
The causeway is visible but appeared to be slightly under water.
I watched as a man tried to tip toe his way across – he gave up.
I am sure if he had wellies on he would have been fine!
A modern cairn has been built in the middle of the site.
Visited 31.5.12
We parked on the main road in Siadar and I walked up the rough track, between the two buildings, which runs south west of the stone circle. As you get closer to the stone there is a metal field gate on your left to go through/over and a short walk across a field to the remaining standing stone.
It is approx a 10 minute walk from the main road.
From the circle you get a good view of Loch An Duin Stone Fort and Steinacleit Stone Circle is also clearly visible on top of the adjacent hill.
The standing stone is approximately 1.5 metres tall with a pointy top.
It is covered in ‘hairy’ lichen.
The stone stands on a raised circular mound approximately 10 metres across.
I assume this is the circumference of the stone circle?
There are many stones sticking out of the grass around the edge of the raised area.
As Kammer said, I doubt this stone circle receives many visitors.
Visited 31.5.12
It’s certainly a whopper!
The stone is sign posted and very easy to access and stands in its own small patch of land. The stone is covered in the light green ‘hairy’ lichen.
I am pleased to say that the rusting cars etc have been removed and the area around the stone was clear of crap.
There are good coastal views to be had from the stone. Definitely one to visit.
Visited 31.5.12
We stopped off to have a look at this broch whilst on the way to visit the Arnol Blackhouse (H.S. site – well worth a visit)
Karen parked on the grass verge and I strolled across to the loch. The ground was spongy but dry – in wet weather I am sure it would be very boggy.
It is easy enough to cross over to the broch – the stony causeway is only about 20 metres long.
The broch ruins were larger than I had expected with tumbled walls still about 2 metres high. The broch is about 15 metres across.
Worth a look when in this part of Lewis although I doubt many people come here!
Visited 31.5.12
My most northern site visit on the Outer Hebrides – a good one too!
Directions:
Take the A857 north to Port Nis and then take the B8014 turning just before the harbour. You can park near the house which has the track running alongside it which leads to stones – 1 minute walk. There is a signpost for the Dun (which I didn’t have time to walk to) and the stones can be seen from the road, in front of the water tower.
As I walked over to the stones a farmer appeared with a trailer load of peat. He smiled and waved as he unloaded the peat into a big pile behind the house.
One stone is 1.5 metre high x 1 metre wide. ‘Hairy’ lichen covered the stones.
The other stone is about 1 metre square – covered on quartz.
If you ever get this far north check these stones out – well worth the minimal effort.
Visited 31.5.12
Directions:
Continue north along the A858 after visiting Dun Carloway broch.
When you reach Carlabhagh take the minor road west.
The stone is sited in what appears to be someone’s back garden?
The stone is easy enough to see from the road and looks to be about 2 metres tall.
Visited 31.5.12
Signposted from the main A858.
Sophie was asleep so Karen stayed in the car while myself and Dafydd walked up to the visitor centre. I was surprised that there were no staff present and guides could be purchased by writing you name on a sheet of paper and putting the money in an honesty box! Isn’t it nice that there are still places where this type of trust works?
In the visitor centre there is a self guided walk with various reconstructions to give you an idea of how Dun Carloway would have looked when inhabited.
We then walked along the path towards the broch. Dafydd was ‘on form’ and didn’t stop asking questions – all the way there and all the way back!
The broch is the best preserved in the Western Isles and affords wonderful views.
You can walk part way up the inner staircase.
Definitely worth a visit when in this remote part of the world.
‘View from road’ 31.5.12
Easy to see from the road – overgrown jumbled remains.
A modern cairn stands in the middle of the site.
Access would be easy enough across the causeway if you wished.
Time was against me as I wanted to get to Dun Carloway – just up the road.
Visited 31.5.12
Just up the road from Olcote kerbed cairn – on the same side of the road.
The stone is right next to a bus stop, approximately 1.5 metres high and set in a concrete/pebble base.
As it was nearly 11.00pm and the stone is in a residential area I didn’t hang around too long.
I didn’t want anyone to get the wrong idea!
Visited 31.5.12
I drove past this kerbed cairn twice before realising where it was.
It was 11.00pm but still light enough to be out ‘old stoning’; write my notes and be able to read the information board! Needless to say there was no one else about. Karen and the children were happily tucked up in bed back at the B+B.
It is great that the cairn has survived at all given that the road cut it in half.
At least there was no traffic at this time of night – only mad people looking at ‘old stones’!
Visited 31.5.12
What madness is this? 10.30pm and I am climbing up a steep hill, over a barbed wire fence and looking for a chambered cairn in the middle of a field!
To be fair the cairn was easy enough to spot when you get to the top of the hill.
There are 4 stones making up the cairn – each about 1 metre high.
Despite the dry weather we had experienced the ground was still quite boggy.
The views from the cairn are cracking. The sun had set and sky was red. The moon shone overhead. The wind had dropped and the views over Lewis made the steep climb well worth the effort. The views really were a lovely sight.
Visited 31.5.12
The remaining standing stone is approximately 1.5 metre tall x 0.5 metre across.
The views from the stone are the best I have seen on Lewis – breathtaking.
They show Lewis at its best – both rugged and beautiful.
The sun darted in and out of clouds and lit up parts of the mountains in the distance.
I was in the right place at the right time for the light to reveal ‘Sleeping Beauty’ in all her glory. She was so clear and recognisable – the best I had seen her during my stay – watching over all that she surveyed.
The view set out in front of me had to be one of the highlights of my short but fulfilling stay on Lewis. Simply stunning.
Visited 31.5.12
As Kammer correctly predicted I did indeed arrive at the cairns before the stone circle.
The larger cairn is about 1 metre high x 10 metres across.
The smaller cairn is about 0.5 metre high x 8 metres across.
There were plenty of sheep and lambs milling around the cairns and most ran away as I approached. One mother sheep had different ideas and headed straight towards me. I stood and watched as she got closer and closer. At one point I thought she was going to ram me (excuse the pun). But she stopped a few feet away and stared at me intently until I left!
Visited 30.5.12
I did the same as Kammer and walked across the bridge after visiting the nearby stone circle.
Access is very easy; up and over a locked gate, across the grass and you are there.
The stone is about 1 metre tall
I don’t think there’s much else to add?
I spotted this Broch on the O/S map and thought I would be able to see it from either the stone circle or the bridge itself.
I couldn’t actually make anything out.
Canmore states:
‘Little is left of this probable broch which is situated on a small promontory. The building appears to have been circular with a diameter of 52ft. A few of the foundation stones are traceable and there are slight signs of a ditch across the neck of the promontory’.
Visited 30.5.12
On the way back from visiting the reconstructed round house at Traigh Bostadh we stopped at the small parking area at the northern end of the Bernera Bridge.
This is a very easy site to access and only requires a very short but quite steep walk.
The site consists of 3 impressive standing stones – 1 x 2 metres tall and 2 x 3 metres tall.
There is of course also the ‘birthing chair’ although I doubt that is what it was as there didn’t appear to be any room for the baby to pop out!
The stones wouldn’t have looked out of place at Callanish with there patterned swirls and ‘hairy’ lichen.
There are great views along the coast from the stones and this is well worth stopping for.
Visited 30.5.12
What a great place to visit this is!
It is at the end of a long winding road in a remote part of Lewis.
This actually adds to the charm and the beach you end up on is simply stunning.
White sand, turquoise sea – you could be in the Caribbean (except for the temperature!)
They couldn’t have picked a better spot for a reconstructed round house.
The way to the round house is signposted from the small car park next to the cemetery.
Dafydd and I went into the house whilst Karen and Sophie played on the beach.
The lady in the house was friendly and very informative although the accent took a little getting used to. There was no one else about so Dafydd had her full attention!
The peat fire gave off lots of smoke. Apparently peat needs to be dried for at least 6 months to be any use for the fire – preferably 12 months we were informed.
Although a reconstruction you get a real feel of how it must have been to live in these houses all those years ago. The lady said that despite how windy it gets you don’t even feel as much as a draught. We spent a fair bit of time here asking questions and looking around before joining Karen and Sophie on the beach.
If you get the chance to visit I would highly recommend it.
Please note that this is not an Historic Scotland site.
The sunrise visit 1.6.12
This is without doubt the greatest experience I have ever had at a prehistoric site.
I will do my best to adequately describe my feelings but I doubt I will do it justice.
After watching the sun go down the night before I just HAD to watch the sun rise. I awoke at 3.00am (to be honest I was so excited I hardly slept) quickly got dressed (warm clothing) and quietly left the B+B not to disturb anyone. It was dark but not so dark that you needed a light to get around. I decided that a walk was in order rather than drive to complete the ‘experience’.
A 20 minute stroll through the gloom and I was there.
Needless to say that I was the only person there (something I was pleased about) and I wandered thoughtfully around the stones. Although it was pretty dark the stones seemed to radiate the little light there was and (I know this will sound strange) seemed to ‘glow’ in the darkness. It was very odd that the stones appeared very clear and ‘illuminesant’ when all around was darkness; with the silhouette of the mountains in the distance.
I am sure that anyone who has visited the Western isles (or Orkney or Shetland for that matter) will know that there is a near permanent wind present (not helped by a lack of trees). This can vary from a gentle breeze to a full on gale but it is always present. Well, here was one occasion when there was no wind at all. Not only was there no wind but there was also no noise – complete silence. This obviously added to the experience.
After about 30 minutes when I just sat there trying to take the experience in the dawn chorus started. First just the one bird but quickly joined by several others. About 15 minutes later the lambs in the fields started to away and joined in with their bleating. This was soon followed by a distant cockerel announcing the start of another day. Magical.
I sat and watched in awe as the distant horizon started to get lighter and the black sky turned to dark blue and then lighter blue – one or two small clouds silhouetting black in the sky. I had now been amongst the stones for nearly 2 hours and cannot describe how different the experience is compared with a day time visit. At last it was time for the sun to make an appearance. I carefully position myself within the stones as watched as the top edge of the sun blazed out from behind a mountain – the camera was doing overtime!
To say this was a magical experience is quite frankly doing it an injustice.
With 5 minutes the sun was fully up and the event was over. I walked back to the B+B not feeling tired or cold but feeling elated, excited and overwhelmed by my experience. It was now 5.30am. I put the kettle on and looked at the pictures I had taken. One was (in my opinion) superb and shows the top edge of the sun rising above the mountain with the standing stones silhouetted black in the foreground. I plan to get this enlarged and framed so I can hang in on my wall. I couldn’t wait for Karen to awake so I could share my excitement.
I will never forget my experience at Callanish. It has had a permanent effect on me and whilst I was watch the sun come up I felt a sort of ‘connection’ with those that had come before me. I know this may sound like nonsense (and perhaps it is) but it is how I felt nonetheless.
If you ever get the opportunity to watch the sunrise at Callanish on a crystal clear morning please do so. I can guarantee you won’t be disappointed.
The ‘daytime visits’ – 1.6.12 and 2.6.12
Up early with the children whilst Karen had a lie in.
How to keep the children occupied for an hour?
Erm……… I know – how about a walk to Callanish?!!
I strapped Sophie into the buggy, stood Dafydd on the buggy board and we were away.
One 20 minute slog pushing them both uphill later and we were there.
It was another lovely sunny day and I promised the children an ice cream if they behaved (perhaps that should be bribed?). We went into the visitor centre and I had a quick look around the shop – not bad actually. I then paid my £2.50 to watch a 5 minute film presentation on the standing stones (rip off but at least I didn’t have to pay for the children). The H.S guide book is very good and well worth buying.
We exited the visitor centre and walked up the path towards the stones. It seemed a bit strange to now be approaching the stones from this direction but it was good to view things differently. There were quite a few people about but not too many to spoil things.
This was my first daylight look at the stones and the swirls and patterns in the stones really stood out. Every time I looked at the stones I noticed something different – it was like seeing the stones for the first time.
Towering above everything of course was the huge central stone. When you get up close to it you realise how tall it is – a wonderful stone.
Sophie and Dafydd played in the central cairn whilst I took in the surroundings.
This really is a magnificent place to visit. One can only wonder how it would have appeared to the ancients seeing it for the first time.
Time for that ice cream I promised (bribed)
The following day we returned to the stones with Karen in tow. This time we drove and parked next to the visitor’s centre. In the field next to the car park were a sow and a litter of about 10 piglets. As soon as they saw us the piglets (pink with black spots) ran under the fence, out of the field and straight towards Sophie and Dafydd. They thought it was amazing and laughed as the piglets ran around them. The piglets followed us all the way to the entrance before running back down the slope into the field.
After a quick look around the visitor centre again we all headed up to the site and I was interested to hear what Karen thought? Now Karen isn’t one to enthuse about ‘old stones’ (although to be fair she isn’t anti them either) but it’s not really her ‘thing’. So I was surprised and pleased to hear her say how much she liked this place and see her go off taking photos of the stones from all angles and point out ‘faces’ in the stones. She had to wait quite a while for a photo of the tallest stone as a woman insisted on stroking it for an unhealthy length of time!
Dafydd then insisted of giving his mum a personal ‘guided tour’ of the cairn and explained in detail what it was used for, what was inside it and how you entered! Karen displayed her usual patience on such occasions. Sophie smiled her smile at the ‘presentation’ before her.
This time our visit was in cloudy weather and yet again different patters emerged form the stones in the varying light – incredible. We walked the avenue and along each of the axis, studying each stone and admiring the patterns and swirls. By now it was getting busier and by the time the second coach had arrived we decided it was time to go and get another ice cream.
It sure is hard leaving a place like Callanish but we had a full days exploring ahead of us.
Where do I start? What can I say that hasn’t been said before? – Probably not much.
I won’t talk too much about the stones themselves as there is nothing new to say. Instead I will try to recount my ‘feelings’ when visiting the site to watch the sun set, the sun rise and in the middle of the day.
As the B+B we were staying in was only a 15 minute walk away I was lucky enough to visit the stones several times. (You could see the stones from the bedroom window!).
I guess I have now spent more hours at Callanish than any other prehistoric site I have visited – not a bad thing!
The ‘sunset visits’ – 30.5.12 and 1.6.12
After a long days travelling we got to the B+B and collapsed on the bed. However, it didn’t take long to recover once we had had a cuppa! I looked out of the window and saw a dark blue sky and the standing stones calling me – how could I resist?
Karen fully understood (bless her) and she stayed with the children while I headed up the road. I did take a jacket but left my shorts on – not a good idea it turned out! I followed the road (signposted Post Office – which was actually someone’s house!) up hill which came out at the car park next to the standing stones. This was not the road which leads to the visitor centre and official car park.
There were a couple of people milling around (mostly Scandinavian) who stood primed with their cameras to capture the sun setting on a clear evening. My initial thoughts when seeing the stones was surprise that the site wasn’t bigger, although the individual stones are of an impressive size – particularly the tallest stone. I was also struck by the swirling patterns in the stone which seemed to captivate visitors – myself included. These seemed to change when viewed at different angles and you could not help but run your hands along the swirls and contours of the stones.
The wind by now had picked up and the temperature dropped as the sun started to set. Everyone else was wrapped up in ski jackets, woolly hats, scarves etc and there was I in a light summer jacket and shorts – much to their amusement! I took my photos as the sun set and headed back to the warmth of the B+B. By the time I got back I was freezing (not helped by being unwell) and I spent a long time in the shower warming up.
My second sunset visit was the following evening – this time properly prepared with padded trousers, jacket and hat. By now I was feeling much better and enjoying my visit a lot more.
It was another cloudless evening and there were only a couple of local dog walkers for company this time.
I again walked amongst the stones, stoking the contours (you really can’t help it!) and spotting more swirls and patterns within the stones. I walked up and down and up and down again, marvelling at the stones and generally appreciating the stones a lot more than I did the night before. The site somehow seemed bigger as well. It was still windy.
I looked around and admired the views of lochs and hills, changing appearance in the diminishing light. I still hadn’t seen ‘Sleeping Beauty’ in all her glory yet – but that would change! There are certainly worse places to be than sunset at Callanish……….
Visited 30.5.12
The good news is the yellow pain has now gone.
The bad news is the rusting farm machinery is still laying all around the stone.
I had no problem visiting the stone from the local crofter – although it was 10.30pm!!
Visited 30.5.12
After visiting Cnoc Ceann a’Gharraidh it is only natural to head uphill to this equally tongue twistingly named stone circle!
The walk was fine for me but I am sure this would be very boggy in wet weather.
This is yet another superb Callanish site to visit – what a place this is!
The local stone certainly has lots of character with swirling patterns and veins of quartz and most covered in the now familiar ‘hairy’ lichen. Some of the patterns reminded me of tree grain. I also wasn’t expecting this to be a double circle – what a bonus! This is a lovely circle in a lovely setting.
The views are wonderful with stone circles, lochs, fields and hills to admire; all being carefully watched over by ‘sleeping beauty’. I again had the place to myself and all was quiet except for birdsong.
This is another ‘must see’ site when visiting Callanish.
Visited 30.5.12
One of the great things about visiting the Western Isles is the fact that it stays light so late in the evening. This meant that once Karen and the children had been settled in the B+B I was able to nip out for a bit more ‘old stoning’.
It was just a 5 minute drive from the B+B to the minor road (sign posted) leading to the stone circle. Parking is easy enough at the end of the road; next to a derelict farmhouse. A short walk across a field of highland cows and I was there.
As with virtually every site I had visited so far I had the place to myself. This really is a great place to visit. There are 5 standing stones and 2 large fallen stones. The stones are of various shape and size – triangular, square and curved. Is there a cairn in the centre of the circle?
There are fab views with Callanish visible away in the distance in one direction and ‘sleeping beauty’ prominent in another.
I am writing these notes sat on one of the fallen stones; enjoying the stones and the scenery – this is what it is all about!
A ‘must see’ site when visiting Callanish.
View from afar 30.5.12
After visiting Ceann Hulavig stone circle I thought I would walk out to this stone row.
It doesn’t look too far on the map but when I walked up past the sheep pens I could make out 4 stones on the distant horizon through my binoculars. 3 stones are in a group with a 4th a little further away.
It certainly is a lot further on the ground than it looks on the map!
I wasn’t feeling too good, Sophie was ill and to be honest I didn’t fancy the hike so I settled for a ‘far away’ view.
I imagine the view from the stones is impressive?
Visited 30.5.12
Day 5 of the holiday and my first day on Lewis.
And as we all know Lewis means one thing – Callanish!
We were staying in Callanish so no prizes for where we headed straight for!
But before heading for the main site we first stopped at Ceann Hulavig stone circle.
We parked on the verge of the B8011 south west of the circle. The stones could easily be seen from the road. I climbed over the fence and headed uphill as quickly as possible. Despite the dry weather the ground underfoot was spongy and I imagine in wet weather it would be very boggy.
As I got closer to the stones my excitement grew and my pace quickened.
WOW – what a great site – and I had it all to myself!
There are 5 stones still standing – each about 2 metres tall and covered in ‘hairy’ lichen.
I counted 4 stones in the centre of the circle which may be the remains of a cairn?
Despite being windy the sky was blue and both the sun and the moon were visible. There are sweeping views over the surrounding lochs and hills.
I thought this was an excellent site to see and would highly recommend a visit when visiting Callanish. If this is a ‘taster’ of what Callanish has to offer then I am in for a treat!
Visited 29.5.12
The ’24 hour bug’ which was affecting Karen and Sophie earlier on in the day was now starting to affect me. After a lovely couple of hours on the beach I could see the standing stone from the roadside; away in the distance on the headland.
The lay by with the bench next to it is still there but the sign for the stone has gone.
To be honest I didn’t feel up to walking out to the stone and was going to settle for a long distance view with my binoculars but after some prompting from Karen I decided to go for it!
It is a 10 minute walk to the stone but across the sand dunes it is wearing on the legs. On the way back I took the easier route along the beach. By the time I got to the stone I was knackered but it well worth it.
The stone is about 4 metres tall and 1.5 metres across. The seaward side of the stone is covered in ‘hairy’ green lichen.
Although the stone is well worth a visit in its own right it is the scenery which captivates you. Harris has to be the most beautiful island I have ever been to. Blue sky, turquoise crystal clear water and white sandy deserted beaches – pity the water is so cold!
Both the Macleod stone and the nearby Sgarasta stone are well worth visiting when on Harris. Do it – do it now!!
Visited 29.5.12
I had a quick look for anything looking remotely like a stone circle but couldn’t see anything obvious.
To be honest I’m not surprised I couldn’t find this site as I was not really sure what I was looking for going off the previous notes?