GLADMAN

Facing off to the fabulously be-cairned Bryn Rhudd and Banc-y-Gwyngoed across Cwm Brefi, Crug, not to be outdone, is also crowned by the remains of a pretty substantial Bronze Age monument. However, this – despite still measuring some 35 feet across – possesses a more subtle allure for the passing antiquarian than the mighty stone piles to the north. Indeed, topped as it is by a crude, circular ‘hat’ enclosing the OS trig pillar, the uninitiated muppet searching for shelter might well not discern the ancient, grassy footprint underfoot.

I approached via the forestry track east of Pant-yr-esgair, eventually gaining the treeline to the north via a steep ride (in retrospect one should approach the fence sooner rather than later). Following said fence across Esgair Goch to the southwest, prior to veering northwest, a stile eventually allows access to the summit of Crug at a junction. A fine place to be, with some pretty fine panoramic views.

The people at Coflein reckon:

“This stone cairn sits on the southern side of the highest point of Crug.... The cairn is almost completely covered with grass with its stone make-up showing most clearly on the southeast. It is roughly 10.5 metres in diameter and up to 0.7 metres high on its southeast side. On top of it is a circular drystone structure... in the centre of which is a concrete Ordnance Survey triangulation pillar.” [J.J. Hall, Trysor, 14 July 2012]

Now The Elenydd, that wild ‘Green Desert of Wales’, has perhaps more than its fair share of wondrously obscure prehistoric sites... however, this is arguably as obscure as they come: not only is it not indicated upon OS mapping... not even Coflein have been able to locate it, to date:

“Place name ‘Gurnos’ mutated from Gyrnos. Translates as ‘place of cairns’. At time of field visit no cairns found in immediate area, however area of rocky outcrop on E slope & top of Gurnos has numerable possible iron age features.(RSJ 2000)”

To be fair, it IS rather difficult to locate, being exactly where one would not expect it to be, about a half mile SW of the Rhos-y-Gelynnen stone row. The effort – extreme effort if, like me, one foolishly decides the direct approach from below to the south ‘won’t be that bad’ – is worth it, however: the cairn is pretty substantial, well preserved... and appears to feature the remains of an internal cist. Furthermore, the vibe is sensational.

Not indicated upon OS mapping, I, therefore, neglected to visit this pleasing monument when checking out the large Lluest Aber Caethon ‘mound’ and cairns upon Esgair Beddau a few years back now. Still, better late than never...

OK, the conditions were not ideal, but the ethereal ambience overlooking the abandoned farm below was nevertheless just what the doctor ordered. Quite a lot of internal structure is still evident for such an obscure site...

Coflein reckons:

“7m outer diam, Disturbed. Central area robbed, Mudstone & quartz stones thrown aside. Central cist intact but exposed. Uprights in position. Alignment N-S. Central hollow approx 3-4m diam(RSJ 2000)”

The highest point of the narrow summit ridge of Domen Milwyn (1,821ft) is annotated upon current OS mapping with ‘Cairn’, albeit sans antiquarian typeface, this no doubt a reference to the substantial marker cairn seen from afar. Nevertheless, a closer look by those willing and able to make the rather taxing trek from Cwmystwyth will reveal a small, embedded footprint underlying the modern construct... to these (now rather experienced) eyes, pretty conclusive evidence of prehistoric ancestry.

Indeed, The Dyfed Archaeological Trust note: “Possible Bronze Age round barrow. Status unconfirmed.” Bear in mind that, since the neighbouring peaks also possess their own Bronze Age monuments, the context is also right on the money. Clearly, what we have here crowning these unfashionably obscure hills is a pretty extensive Bronze Age cemetery. Who would have thought it?

In the Citizen Cairn’s view, this unassuming remnant of our ancient heritage makes as fine a focal point as one could wish for when out and about in the hills of Mid Wales. Seekers of space and solitude will find it here. Yeah, despite being (quite literally) crossed by ‘The Cambrian Way’ long-distance path, I saw no one all day... notwithstanding it being a very hot June.

I did, however, receive a veritable lashing from a rather ‘extended’ summer shower during the ascent... not to mention one or two whilst enjoying a likewise extended sojourn on-site, lost within the melodrama of the all-pervading silence. The views to be had are first-rate, although those to the south penetrating the vastness of ‘Wild Elenydd’ may be too uncompromising for some tastes? If you do choose to come – and I believe the rewards are immense – please don’t take this landscape lightly.

The swirling hill fog which paid a visit at one point eventually moved on to leave a fine afternoon. Nevertheless, I kept my compass bearing at the ready, just in case. These are NOT hills to be caught out in mist.

First stop of what turns out to be a seriously FULL day exploring the many sites in the immediate locale.... and quite a good, upstanding hors d’oeuvres, if the truth be told. So much so that in any other situation I no doubt would have stayed for several hours. Quality vibe and substantial, if overgrown, cairn. Yeah, I do discern evidence of stonework within the thick, grassy mantle... so let’s go with that.

Coflein reckons:

“Reported both as a round barrow and a cairn. Excavated in 1924, uncovering a stone kerb and yielding 16 fragments of urn”. [J.Wiles 12.02.02]

Access is easy since the (very) minor road passes close by.

Almost – but not quite – visited when I last ventured this-a-way in April 2019, one of those peculiar event associations with a particular tune (in this case Ladytron’s ‘Figurine’) ensures the quartet of cairns said to reside here niggle away at the back of the mind.... until, well, here I finally am.

First things first, it has to be conceded that the location is not (now, at any rate) classic, the cairns standing beside a transmitter station featuring, as these places tend to do, a couple of large antennae. Furthermore, the terrain surrounding/separating the monuments is churned to buggery, with sundry farm detritus adding to the sense of ‘couldn’t give a shit land’. Shame on all those responsible, should they have the brains to appreciate anything at all.

It, therefore, comes as a welcome surprise to find the cairns themselves are in relatively good nick, the pick of the bunch that bearing an OS trig pillar at SN5348039490. This, Coflein notes, represents:

“One of a group of four cairns, aligned NNE-SSE, at c.35m intervals across formerly open, high moorland, 22m in diameter & 1.9m high, having a flat top set with an OS trig. pillar: formerly marked the meeting point of three parishes (Llanybyther, Llanllwni & Llanfihangel Rhos-y-Corn).” [J.Wiles 03.09.04]

OK, the most northerly monument is pretty ravaged, having been extensively’ hollowed-out at some point in the past, but the accompanying pair to the south of the main monument are still pretty upstanding. Factor in the sweeping views to the north-west across the Teifi and, dodgy surroundings notwithstanding, this remains a good place to be