Latest Fieldnotes

Having started at the south end of the ‘Swartland Drovers Road’ trail when just past the present sewage station I chanced to see on my left a small unnamed holm at the top of the Loch of Harray. I think this is most likely a crannog like those in the Voyatown and Swannay districts – the present NMRS designation is quite recent, probably interim. A comparison with the Loch of Wasfale in Firth, going by large-scale maps, this islet is roughly the same length but only half the width, giving as very approximate dimensions 35m by 12m but nowhere near as high. Even unaided you can see that a level mound or platform occupies the central half, with its sides gradually going down to loch level. At high zoom my camera shows at least three large stones (one erect) and a couple more at the back (perimeter wall ?). The stepping stones run NNW from at or near the mound’s edge. Following on in this direction the 1st 25” shows a circular stone arrangement offshore at at HY28881965, between the holm and the Wasum site (HY28841971). Ruling out an actual stone circle my guess would be that this had been a cairn, but it looks most rum on said map.

An early morning visit, I couldn’t find any where good to park, drove right past it, pointed it out to Eric, then proceeded to get myself lost in a housing estate. I had to retrace my route back to the roundabout until I saw the well known burger shop and the petrol station, past there onto the industrial estate. Parking was obtained in the front car park of Xtreme karting, they didn’t know about it though, which serves them right for purposely spelling words wrong, where will that end.

Like Bigsweetie before me, despite the very modernity of the very immediate surroundings I rather liked this place. Eric and myself had the whole site to ourselves, xcepting a single dog walker, she took her poops home with her. I didnt much graffiti either.
This is a strange site, not the roads and stuff, the site it self. Are the three standing stones part of a larger circle like a Clava cairn ? Is the mound a barrow, a chambered cairn ? or an artificial mound ? has it ever been xcavated ? I suppose it’s too much to ask if the stones are in their original places.

From the mound we cross over the road and cross over the M8 on the big footbridge, then cross another duel carriage way (don’t try this at home) to get to the outlier. My memory might not be xact but wasn’t this stone once in different surroundings, like a garden or something. Anyway.
Its a good tall stone.
Which is all one can really say from looking at it through the bars of the fence.
Back to the mound , we decide, to lie in wait for the next plane, Eric is lying on the mound looking upwards, I am crouched behind the mound intending to catch both in the same xciting picture, I like planes, their big and noisy, I like stones and mounds their soft and quiet, bringing the two together is like finding out that rain can be drunk.

Visited 20.7.13

Directions:
From Raglan take the minor road west heading for Bryngwyn. At the crossroads turn left (south) and then left again (east) at the T-Junction (near The Hill farm). At the point takes a sharp turn to the right you will see a worn public footpath sign on your left. Park where you can.

Karen stayed in the car with the children while I walked across the open field and into the ungated second field. Although my O/S map shows the footpath runs adjacent to the fort/enclosure in reality the footpath doesn’t exist on the ground.

What you are confronted by is an impenetrable hedgerow, way over head height.
All I could make out was the obvious curving of said hedgerow which I imagine follows the contour of the fort/enclosure? The fort/enclosure was covered by crop.

I assume access to the field must be from the north via Bryngwyn Manor?
I didn’t bother as I don’t think I would have seen anything due to the crop and we were due at Raglan Castle to watch a Medieval re-enactment event.
(Hence the reason Dafydd was dressed as a Knight and Sophie as a Princess – warrior princess more like!)

All in all not one to recommend.

COFLEIN states:
Period – Iron Age / Roman
‘An oval enclosure 68m x 70 m, defined by scarps and a bank, atop a small isolated hill. Excavation revealed a substantial outer ditch, with 1st-2nd c Roman pottery’.

Following a reasonably satisfying hors d’oeuvre at Torran a’Bharraich I continue loch side upon the minor road as it winds through the village of Letterfearn.... only for progress to be abruptly halted at a locked gate beyond Druidaig Lodge. Despite the appropriate name, I’m confused since the map shows this road terminating at the hamlet of Totaig. The usual self doubt regarding navigational prowess – or rather lack of it – rears its ugly head. Surely I haven’t made a mess of this? I decide not. But there’s only one way to find out conclusively..... so, boots donned, I step out into the deluge (after parking a little way back up the road). It is actually a rather good, scenic walk to Totaig offering excellent views across the water to the gaunt, albeit restored, fortress of Eilean Donan. Totaig’s few buildings appear deserted, uninhabited nowadays, although those with a bit of spare cash – OK, perhaps more than a ‘bit’ – could find themselves a perfect, idyllic hideaway here. Any rich widows fancy some company? The track, now unmetalled, ascends the hillside to the left as the traveller approaches. I head for what is ‘obviously’ the site of the broch – where I would have placed it – across the inlet (Eilein Aoinidh) only to discover I am just as obviously wrong, the broch visible set into the hillside to the approx south-west [although, to be fair, a reconstruction drawing at the broch depicts round houses here, presumably the dwellings of lesser kinsmen].

Caisteal Grugaig occupies a fine, strategic location above a cascading stream (that’s the water source sorted, then) commanding the confluence of Lochs Duich, Alsh and Long below to the approx north-east and thus, presumably, the maritime traffic back in the day. The relationship with Eilean Donan, the island apparently featuring traces of vitrified stonework beneath the restored castle, is intriguing. Did one family occupy both sites, assuming they were contemporary? Or were they rivals? Sadly, as far as I’m aware, the Iron Age remnants surviving upon Eilean Donan are minimal. Not so this broch, the substantial nature of the remains of which come as a very welcome surprise. Very often in this game the archaeology doesn’t match the scenic splendour, or vice versa. But not here. OK, the structure is nowhere near as tall as the wondrous, not too distant Glenelg brochs, but nevertheless bears very favourable comparison with most other mainland brochs that I have seen to date. Furthermore many of those idiosyncratic hallmark features of these iconic structures are very much present and correct. All the boxes ticked, so to speak.

Firstly, starting logically at the entrance, there is a fine, triangular lintel reminiscent of that at Dun Dornadilla, sited below Ben Hope far to the north. Yeah, perhaps this detail was de rigueur amongst fashionable broch owners? The entrance passage retains draw-bar holes to secure a heavy door and a guard cell formerly housing, er, guards visible to the left (albeit more or less now inaccessible). Within the broch irregular outcrops of bedrock remain in situ suggesting the ground level was used for storage. A trio of internal doorways allow access to a mural passage and staircase servicing the upper floor(s?) and a couple of mural chambers. It is possible to clamber up the stairs to the wall top, lethally slippery in the rain, and muse upon the mentality, the differing hopes and dreams of the people who occupied this defensive dwelling two millennia ago.

Surprisingly the broch plays host to several more visitors during my stay; a quartet of middle-aged hikers seemingly quite ‘taken’ by it, to be honest (good for them, I say); and an older dude, white hair pulled back in a pony tail, together with his wife and dogs... with whom I shared Mam Ratagan last night. Good, proper people. See, they do exist.

Before leaving Caisteal Grugaig it is worth ascending the track a little further to the hill top above and to the right, passing an information board en route. This affords an excellent view of Loch Alsh and the magical Isle of Skye to the west, together with a grandstand panorama of ‘the meeting of the lochs’ – and Caisteal Grugaig’s place in the landscape – to the east. The mind races as I imagine the scene as those three Hanoverian frigates pounded Eilean Donan to rubble in May 1719....

Dawn arrives at Mam Ratagan heralding a significant change in weather, assuming the cloud obscuring the summits of the ‘Five Sisters’ is not a passing anomaly. The assumption is correct, the placid surface of the southern end of Loch Duich, reflecting the ancient defensive remnants of Dunan Diarmid, all too soon disrupted by rising wind spilling down Glen Shiel, the vanguard of a storm front. I’ve spent the night at this wondrous (and strangely midge free) viewpoint with the intention of visiting a couple of the lesser known ancient fortified dwellings in the area before the drive to Kilmartin this afternoon. There are worse things to do.

At Shiel Bridge a minor road heads beyond the Youth Hostel at Ratagan along the western shore of Loch Duich to the north-west, passing the apparent location of a Class II henge at NG 93081868 (I didn’t see anything in passing, but may well return some day, given the opportunity). A little way past Duich House a jetty extends into the loch to service a salmon fishery. Opposite (to the left) a path ascends the hillside beside a fenced storage yard toward a small, rocky knoll offering no hint of ancient fortifications, hardly surprising given the overwhelmingly vivid carpet of late blooming blue bells so abundant this final day of May. I manage to squeeze the car off the road beside some nearby stables, to the apparent bemusement of the equine occupant.... ‘who are you, Sassenach?’.... and clamber up to find the shattered remains of a small dun set in a wonderful position overlooking the loch. ‘Shattered’ and ‘small’ are the adjectives to note here, although, to be fair, the footings of the curving wall defending the easiest approaches upon the north/west arc do suggest a pretty substantial work in its day.

As mentioned the siting is magnificent with a clear view up and down the loch. That to the north-west, looking toward Eilean Donan (the island featuring a restored castle that has no doubt graced a thousand biscuit tins, yet also possesses traces of a vitrified fort) is pretty good by any standards.... unfortunately, however, the visa to south-east is marred somewhat by the aforementioned salmon fishery and supporting infrastructure. But hey, this is a working landscape. So no complaints. And needless to say the misty, driving rain inevitably puts a literal dampener on proceedings, although nothing can detract from the sheer wonder of those blue bells. Yeah, visit on a fine day and you may well be blown away.

So, perhaps not quite the hang I was anticipating, but nevertheless it’d be rude not pop in on the way to the utterly wondrous Caisteal Grugaig.

Travellers engaged in a serpentine journey southwards along the north-west coast of Scotland might well do a lot worse that to pause for a while – take a cerebral breather – at Gairloch... in order to prepare for the scenic onslaught that awaits receptive minds at Loch Maree and Torridon. There is another reason, however. For perched upon the rocky headland of An Dun, rising at the southern end of the beach (Gaineamh Mhor), are the remnants of an ancient fort. Now I’ve never been one for lounging upon sand in the sun... however lounging upon a possible Pictish fort overlooking a sun-kissed beach? Well that’s a different matter. Gairloch is an attractive enough town catering for the traditional genre of seaside holiday maker, the fine sandy coast complemented by a backdrop of rugged hills softened somewhat with greenery. It also possesses an award winning heritage centre housing a Pictish stone, apparently featuring the likeness of a salmon (sounds a bit fishy to me), found locally in 1880.

I park by the memorial to the crew of a USAAF B24 Liberator which crashed nearby on June 13th 1945 with the loss of all the brave gentlemen on board... lest we forget. Hell, we must never forget, no matter how much Uncle Sam may annoy us nowadays. An Dun and its fort are visible at the far end of Gaineamh Mhor, although I would advise against clambering down the headland hereabouts as I did, but instead walking a bit further toward the golf course – yes, I’m afraid Gairloch has one of those, too – and taking a path there.... particularly if you have little ‘uns. Which ever way you approach note that the fort crowns the inner section of the rocky promontory, this separated from the outer by a deep, natural cleft.

The site is isolated from the hinterland by what appeared to me to be the remains of a cross-wall with rock cut ditch, although there are suggestions this could relate to a later castle which local folk tradition infers once stood here (J H Dixon 1886). The enclosure itself is small (20m N-S by 14m E-W according to Canmore, only large enough to accommodate an extended family, perhaps?) defended by the grassy remains of a single wall. Not large, but it is enough since the flanks of the promontory are quite precipitous.

As I sit and take in the glorious sweep of Gaineamh Mhor the sun breaks through the afternoon cloud cover drenching this coastal landscape with light. The sound of children playing with bucket and spade below me seems in keeping with the vibe here; in fact I can imagine a guard standing sentinel hearing the same thing several millennia before. Certainly makes a lot more sense than the metallic ‘thwak’ of a bleedin’ golf ball, but there you are. Yeah, some ancient forts, particularly those sited upon inhospitable hill tops, leave the visitor in awe of the apparent resilience of our predecessors... ‘rather you than I, my fore bearing dude friends’. But not here upon An Dun. Yeah, I could see me building a little hut and seeing out my days here. Bit chilly in the winter, but then the gulfstream is pretty favourable around these parts.

The way to both totem tombs is now very well signed, but if you take your eye too long off the piece of road they mass at you’ll hit a low bump. There is plenty of construction going on at Banks, where there will be a Tomb of the Otter visitor’s centre to complement that for Ronnie’s Tomb of the Eagles (have heard no news of Wedgie’s survey of that landscape). Hamish has put a weatherproof cover over the present tomb entrance and will be installing a low-level lighting system to help folk. To the south you can see a wartime lookout station [watch your step going that way or you can walk around the coast from nearby Burwick], and here there are several small burial mounds with large stones exposed (Hamish can point out several pieces of interest to prehistorians above the tomb if you don’t want to go that far) – unfortunately being with a part I did not get time for photos and the Burwick bus is only for ferry passengers.

N.B. In the absence of OS map I originally believed this site to be Dun Lagaidh, actually located just under a mile to the approx north-west, beyond the terminus of the minor road at Loggie. Oops. One to come back for, then. And bring a bleedin’ map next time. Having said that, I was more than happy with this broch in the time available.....

Now allocating a whole day to drive the not excessive distance between Coigach, a little north of Ullapool, and the Isle of Skye to the south may seem a little, well, excessive. However choose the A832 coastal road at Corrieshalloch Gorge and I’d wager many will conclude a mere week would not suffice, such is the sublime scenery on offer. Yeah, Mother Scotland truly surpassed herself here-abouts, did she not? Incidentally ‘Heads’ new to the area are strongly recommended to pause to gawp – hopefully in not too vertiginous a fashion – at the aforementioned box canyon, the viewing bridge offering arguably one of Scotland’s finest ‘near roadside’ experiences, furthermore graced with the 150ft Falls of Measach.

It is therefore perhaps a little ironic to note the paucity (as far as I’m aware) of prehistoric monuments located along the coastal route, particularly bearing in mind the rich canon of sites to be visited further north. Nevertheless there are still a few man-made gems to be unearthed, none more so than Dun an Ruigh Ruaidh wondrously located overlooking the western shore of Loch Broom. It is all too easy to pass on by.... however ..... a minor, literally ‘dead-end’ road leaves the A835 at the southern extremity of the loch, skirting the far shore to connect a linear sequence of small hamlets. The final such is Loggie, travellers glancing up to their left, immediately upon entering its environs, perhaps discerning the site perched upon its steep, craggy hillside. I didn’t, but for once I had an excuse having no OS map. Consequently I parked up a little further north, taking the opportunity to replenish my water levels from a tumbling stream, whilst two alternative camping dudes looked on from within the open sliding door of their van. Excellent! Better than a B’n’B, my friends. Looking back up the road I realise my mistake, Dun an Ruigh Ruaidh standing silent sentinel above the shimmering loch. Excellent again.

It’s a short, yet very steep ascent up a grassy track from roadside to a broch which, according to Anna and Graham Ritchie (Oxford Archaeological Guide to Scotland) still stands approx 3.5m high in places, although the eastern arc did appear to have collapsed downhill. Excavation during the 1960’s discovered a ring of post holes evidencing an upper floor, together with a central hearth. It seems the original entrance was to the south-east, although this is now blocked.

All in all, then, not a bad broch. The archaeology, however, is more than matched by the exquisite location offering superb vistas NW(ish) toward Ullapool and, looking ‘upstream’, the towering skyline of Beinn Dearg and cohorts rising above the water. There are worse places to hang out for lunch. Yeah, Dun an Ruigh Ruaidh may be a little off the beaten track nowadays, but I reckon it was smack on centre stage when the water ways were the arteries of this landscape.

Visited 16.7.13

After a few stressful days because of domestic issues I knew it was time that myself and Karen had to get away from everything and everyone even if it was for only a couple of hours. Our only ‘window of opportunity’ was early evening but where to go?

The weather continues to be tropical and it was another cloudless evening. What could be more relaxing (and romantic) than watching the sunset on such a lovely evening? Sorted – Garth Hill Barrows it is then!

After parking the car we headed along the ‘path’ to the main Barrow with the information board. Although I have visited before it has never been at this time of year and it was urprising how different the hill looked with the ferns at their full height. It was the first time for Karen and I had to re-assure her that the view from the top would make the (minimal) effort worthwhile.

There were a few dog walkers about and a couple of horse riders but they left shortly after we arrived. Several sheep and cows were also wandering about but took no notice of us. In a distant field a flock of sheep were making a right racket – I have no idea what was causing such a commotion but it went on all the time we were there.

We sat on top of the main Barrow, next to the trig point.
The sunset was beautiful. Behind us a half-moon hung high in the sky. In front of us the sun appeared as a large bright orange globe; slowly but surely disappearing behind the distant hills. We both sat in silence and left each other to our thoughts. I wonder how many people had done this before us? I wonder what the builders were thinking when constructing the Barrow all those years ago? Humans being humans I imagine similar thoughts to the ones we wre having.

This is a good place to visit – particularly on an evening like this.

We left the Garth far more relaxed and less stressful and we did when we arrived.
Watching a great sunset has that effect – something everyone should do every now and again.

The lower passage into the interior is waterlogged, and appears to have been used to dispose of rubbish. Not having a towel, a change of clothes, or knee pads, we just shone our torches down it.

The site is on the Eday Heritage Walk.

At present, (July 2013) sections of the tomb are cordoned off with rather ugly safety barriers, and there are notices claiming work to restore and make safe will commence in June 2013(!). While I found the distraction minor, but annoying, others may find that they spoil the experience.

Cost is now £7.00, though I suspect you could get away with just walking up to the sites. However, although before I went I thought the cost seemed steep, you get two useful introductory talks, and the opportunity to handle original artefacts from the excavation, as well as the small museum. Certainly the talk on the burned mound made visiting the site much more interesting.

Three previously unrecorded panels found yesterday ,all under heather . I’ve included a “before” pic of the largest , prior to heather removal .

Extract taken from a paper read to the (archaeology) society April 5th 1832

“At the north end of the parish of Ashdon, in Essex, are certain artificial mounds. They consist of a line of four greater barrows, and a line of three smaller barrows, at the distance of between 70 and 80 feet in front of the others.
“The situation of these mounds is remarkable. They stand on a general acclivity in face of Bartlow church, the country gradually rising around them like an extended amphitheatre.
“Between the hills and the church is a hollow to the north, down which runs a little brook that divides the parishes of Ashdon and Bartlow, forming the boundary of the counties of Essex and Cambridgeshire.
“Though the hills do not belong to the parish of Bartlow, which is in Cambridgeshire, nor to the hamlet of Bartlow which is in Essex, still, from the received interpretation of the Saxon word Low, a barrow, it is clear that they give their name to the place, a proof of their antiquity”.

Should they be on TMA these early Romano-British mounds, unique of course, and large. But in truth they have to be seen just to say ‘wow’.

Second visit and we always start from the church, past the Three Hills pub/hotel, turn right at the cross roads and the church will be on your right. Stand and admire the round towered church, note the two paths that run through the church yard, one will lead you to christianity, the other to a pagan past.

The remaining three mounds are surrounded by tall trees, an ecosystem has evolved in this large glade the chalk mounds are covered in long grass and wild flowers, this is what enchants the place. Butterflies dance at your feet, there is a surfeit of these dark brown creatures, damselflies and dragonflies from the nearby stream, bees buzz busily round the plants.

The three mounds so steeply sided protect the plants, Silbury comes easily to mind with the largest mound, at 45 foot high, though the Bartlow mound misses the mark it still comes second, you can read the history here.....

sheshen-eceni.co.uk/bartlow_info.htm

I suspect winter would be the best time to visit, shorn of the natural vegetation, but summer has the added highlight of a vibrant ecosystem on these mounds.

13/07/2013 – It’s been a while since our last time on Ben Newe. A lovely hill in the heart of Strathdon. Always very quiet. I guess not many folk apart from locals would have heard of it. Small carparks on east and west sides of hill, we started from the east. Good paths through trees lead to the top, very nice at this time of year. Worth the climb just for the view up Glen Buchat.

The well is found on the north side of the summit tor. A few coins could be just made out through the murky water.

Go on a warm summer day with a book or just your thoughts. It’s a place that should not be rushed.

It seems few people visit this site without getting a soaking or having difficulty finding it. Well the former was true for us, but I think the signage must have improved considerably as we found it fairly easily. It’s a bit of a trudge from where we parked next to a waterworks(?) on the main road (why does it always seem to take longer to walk ‘to’ somewhere rather than ‘from’?), but well worth a visit. The tomb stands majestically on a slightly elevated position overlooking the Lough with the Sperrin Mountains as a backdrop. I’m sure it would look even more enigmatic in low Autumnal sunlight on a dry day, but that’s for another day.

Visited 9.7.13

The Cairn is just about visible from the two main Twr Pem-Cyrn Cairns – with the help of my trusty binoculars.

I headed across the flat but quite difficult terrain (due to the heather/boulders) and after about 15 minutes arrived at the Cairn.
As others have said it is a decent Cairn and worth the extra leg work to visit.
The views are certainly not as good as the eastern Cairns although the distant reservoir glistening in the sunlight was pretty.

There were several possible Cairns/piles of stones along the way.
Which were natural and which man (ad woman) made I have no idea.
One thing’s for sure – there was no shortage of building material for the ancients.

All in all, Mynydd Llangatwg is a good place to visit – particularly when the weather is as good as it is today.

Visited 9.7.13

Directions:
East of the main Twr Pen-Cyrn Carins.

Saw this Cairn marked on the O/S map and thought I would go and try to find it.

The whole area is covered in heather with many small clusters of stones scattered here and there. Did I actually find the Cairn? In honesty I don’t know. I probably did amongst the ‘natural’ piles of stones. Either way there are fantastic views to be had from this part of Mynydd Llangatwg – even better than from the main Cairns.

COFLEIN states:
‘A cairn, 12.5m in diameter and 1.3m high, slightly disturbed centrally by shepherds’.

By the way, I wonder how do they know shepherds were responsible?

Visited 9.7.13

Following a satisfying and rewarding day volunteer work with the Woodland Trust in the beautiful Sirhowy Valley, I had time for a bit more ‘old stoning’ before having to drive home. The sun was still high and the weather still hot so I wanted to make the most of it, particularly as I didn’t have the children with me.

After navigating the maze of narrow country lanes (with very few passing places) I eventually arrived at the car park. It was no surprise to find I was the only one there.
I managed to park beneath the shade of a tree and after grabbing my map, compass, hat and water bottle I headed up the green track as described by Mr G.

At first the walk is a gentle stroll but as soon as you arrive at the derelict former quarry buildings it rapidly becomes a steep scramble up between the rocky crags.
I was fairly huffing and puffing by the time I reached the top and was glad to see that the ground became flat again as I headed along the ‘path’ towards the higher ground.

As soon as you get near the summit the two Cairns come into view and what a fine sight they are. Both are substantial, if hollowed out, and it was with relief I plonked myself down upon the top of the southern one and enjoyed a refreshing drink of water.

Now, usually, I would be sheltering out of the wind and cold but not today. It was a pleasure to sit on top of the stones, take in the surroundings and contemplate the meaning of life. All was quiet except for the shrill of several small birds hopping in and out of the heather.

Next to the two large Cairns (and the smaller one with the Trig on top of it) was another small stone cairn. I am surprised this has not been mentioned before as it is so close. Perhaps this is a modern cairn although COFLEIN does state that there are many Cairns on Mynydd Llangatwg.

Despite being a fair hike from the car park (about 45 minutes) it certainly is worth the effort – particularly on a day like today.

Visited 9.7.13

After visiting the nearby Carn Blorenge I had just enough time to wander over to the Carn-Y-Defaid Cairns. The going was more tricky as the ‘path’ wasn’t as good and walking through heather isn’t the easiest thing to do. The Cairns are visible from the car park so even I couldn’t get lost – for a change! It’s only about a 15 minute walk.

The clouds had now been burnt off by the strong sunshine and the temperature was quickly rising. Looking up it was clear that it was going to be another hot one.

Despite being dug into both Cairns are impressive and the views are great. There were fantastic views across to the Skirrid Mountain and all around was a ‘patchwork quilt’ of fields.

Looking inside the northern Cairn I saw (what appeared to be) the central burial chamber with (again what appeared to be) a surviving roof slab. I could be wrong and perhaps the stone had fallen by accident across the top of the ‘chamber’? – But that’s what it looked like.

I really liked it up here and would have happily stayed a lot longer but my day’s volunteering was shortly due to start and I was already running late.
Just time to collect a bag of horse manure for the vegetable patch then…….

Visiting Carn Blorenge and the Carn-y-Defaid Cairns is a good way to spend a couple of hours. Well recommended.

Visited 9.7.13

Directions:
From the village of Blaenavon (World Heritage Site no less) take the B4246 north.
As you reach the top of the hill and rise out onto open moorland take the first turning on the right. (You will see the two large transmitters) Next to the transmitters there is a large car park – park here. From the car park follow the gravel path and then the obvious ‘path’ through the heather which takes you to the summit of Blorenge (rhythms with orange!) Mountain and the large Cairn.

7.30am and already I am stood on top of the Cairn. Why this early? Good question.
I had been given the day off work in order to do some voluntary work helping construct river anti-erosion screens for the Woodland Trust. I wasn’t due to start until 9.45am and looking at the map I could see it wasn’t too much further to drive to Blorenge. So, there we are, an early start but well worth the effort.
Although I doubt the ‘courting couple’ I disturbed in the car park thought so!!

There is an information board in the car park giving details of this part of the World Heritage Site but no mention of the Cairn. The path across the mountain is called ‘Heather and Heritage’.
Another thing of note is the large mound of stone with a plaque on it stating that this is the resting place of the horse Foxhunter who died in 1959. The horse was famous in the equestrian world and won Olympic Gold. The car park is named Foxhunter in its honour. First time I have seen a burial site for a horse.

The weather over the last few days had been glorious and we had been promised more to come. However, at this time of the morning, at this height, things were much different. Threatening clouds hung over Blorenge Mountain like a great black cape although below it you could see the sun shining on the valley below.
I seemed somewhat inappropriately dressed in my shorts and t-shirt!

As you walk to the Cairn you pass many piles of jumbles stones, many of them Cairn-like. Can there really only be one Cairn up here or perhaps (more likely) there are others hidden amongst the heather? Two piles in particular looked very much like a Cairn. One was about 0.3m high x 5m across and the other 1m high x 3m across. But there again – what do I know?

Carn Blorenge is a fine site and sight although it has suffered from the usual walker’s shelter adaptation. I could see no trace of the cist mentioned by COFLEIN – I assume it has since been back-filled with stones? The views of course are very fine indeed.

In the distance, across the heather, there looked for all the world to be a standing stone of some 2m in height. Why wasn’t this on the map? After getting my feet soaked tramping through the wet heather I discovered the answer – it is a natural rock outcrop. It did make me wonder however if it had been used as a standing stone in the ancient past. Who knows?

All in all a good place to visit.

COFLEIN states:
‘Extensive robbing of a cairn, 15m in diameter and 2m in height, has exposed an eccentric cist, 1.4m by 0.7m’.

South of the pretty village of Ansignan (with a stunning viaduct across the fields) and west of barrage sur L’Agly (lake, or reservoir) is the hilltop commune of Trilla with two dolmens. As you drive up the hill, and before the village, this is signposted off to the left along a rough track. The little hire car bumped along a way, then we came to a fork in the road with a no entry sign on the higher track, but handily a “Dolmen” sign for the lower one, and there was just enough room to park – but not much room to turn, small cars only!

Not much more than 100m along, another sign pointed up to the right and a few rough hewn steps led up to the dolmen.

It’s a wide and low construction, with a capstone of maybe 1.5m by 2.5m.

Visited 7.7.13

The children were tired and it was time to head home. As Karen bent down to get into the car she split her trousers.
‘Putting on weight?’ I asked.
‘No I’m not! It just goes to shoe how old and thin my trousers are’ she replied.
I thought better than to push the subject.

I explained that I wanted to try and find the stone setting but Karen was less than keen given her lack of modesty. I promised I would be quick.

We parked up and I headed across the moor to try to find the stones.
The grass was high and I knew the stones were low.
There were several rocks sticking out of the grass which gave me false alarms but I’m afraid that in the limited time I had I was unable to find the stone setting.

As with my experience with the Saith Maen Stone Row this was one I will have to re-visit. Not much luck with ‘old stone; hunting today. But I guess we all get days like this from time to time?

Visited 7.7.13

We parked up on the grass verge and before long we had our picnic set up on the river bank. The weather was glorious and for the first time I was able to visit this site without the need for wellies!

Sophie and Dafydd were soon up to their knees in water and playing happily. Sophie was content to throw stones in the water whilst Dafydd (being Dafydd) decided he was going to construct a dam. I pointed out to Dafydd the spot where we had both fallen in a few years ago – luckily he didn’t remember and wasn’t put off.

There were quite a few people about which did surprise me even allowing for the great weather. We were near two small waterfalls which cascaded into a ‘lagoon’ approximately 1m deep. Before long 3 women joined us, fully prepared in their bikinis, and commenced to swim around and taking pictures of themselves – much to Sophie and Dafydd’s amusement. I of course had to be careful where I was looking on the grounds that Karen was keeping a close eye on me from the river bank!

After a while it was time to get to business. I left the family still splashing about and I took the short but steep walk up to the stone circle. Although there were plenty of people enjoying themselves along the river bank I was the only one at the circle – which was a bit of luck.

The sky was deep blue with only the faintest of breezes helping to keep the temperature down. I disturbed two sheep that were hiding in the shadow of the Maen Mawr trying to escape the heat. Despite the dry, crunching grass on the approach the flat plateau where the circle stands was still a bit boggy. It must take a prolonged spell of nice weather to dry this area out? The Maen Mawr was still surrounded by its own mini moat.

All was quiet, the views down the valley a sight to behold. This really is a great location for a stone circle.

A solitary Red Kite hovered silently low overhead. Way above was a passenger airline leaving white trails across the azure sky. All was well with the world.

All too quickly it was time to re-join the gang and try to get the children out of the water and back into the car. But that’s another story……………

What new madness is this? A Scottish site I’d actually heard of before donning the boots this time around! OK, that’s not strictly true since it appears the hill fort is referred to locally as ‘Knock Farril’.... but I’m assuming it’s probably pronounced more or less the same. Correct me if I’m wrong. Regardless of nomenclature, it’s certainly a good ‘un requiring precious little introduction – thankfully – to the hardened Scottish ‘hill Head’, not only due to the fine location, straddling a narrow NE-SW ridge approx midway between the spa-town of Strathpeffer and Dingwall (the latter upon the shore of Cromarty Firth looking across to those curiously alien oil platforms), but because of the extensive vitrification of the defences. Ah, ‘vitrification’, that seemingly almost mystical process whereby dry stone walls of hill forts, most particularly in Scotland, were subjected to severe, uniform heat – aka fire – causing the stone to fuse to a hard glass-like substance. Or something like that. The reasoning behind such acts has, not surprisingly, been the subject of much academic debate... for what it’s worth I favour the ‘ritualistic decommissioning’ option at time of typing. So that’s that settled, then.

The hill fort towers impressively above the aforementioned Strathpeffer, which incidentally possesses a Pictish Clach Tiompan, or ‘sounding stone’. Needless to say, however, I approach from Loch Ussie to the south, a rough track actually allowing visitors to park upon the ridge to SW, if they so wish. In my ignorance I leave the car a little further down beside the farm house and make my way on foot... in retrospect it is more appropriate, I think. The ascent to the ‘fort is quite steep, passing a vitrified outwork described by Canmore as a ‘look-out post’; there is another to the NE of the main enclosure, so my interpretation is they might have also functioned as ‘barbicans’ protecting the main approaches from sudden assault? There is certainly quite a substantial volume of vitrified rock remaining in situ from what must have been a very powerful univallate defence in its day (Canmore gives an average of c4.5m for wall thickness).

Interestingly.... Anna and Graham Ritchie (Oxford Archaeological Guide to Scotland) cite Knock Farril as being the location of the earliest recorded excavation in Scotland during 1774, the dig resulting in the trio of ‘distinct troughs’ to be seen. More interesting still, perhaps, they also state that analysis of the vitrified rock yielded a destruction date of c1,100 BCE. Blimey, that is early, is it not? As I wander around taking in the fabulous views, special mention accorded the vistas looking eastward toward Cromarty Firth and north to Ben Wyvis, Auld Alba decides to add a primeval vibe by introducing fast moving fronts of violent hail, tempered by exquisitely sublime rainbows. Just to make the visit to this wondrous hill fort even more memorable, you understand, and not to give me a randomly generated kicking. Thank you Mam.

Incidentally I learn later that my nephew’s little girl, Evelyn, upon seeing a rainbow at home in South Wales asked the Mam C whether she could ‘go for a ride on it’, or words to that effect. You know, up here on Knock Farril, I think I know what she meant. Never lose the child inside, my friends. Never!

I’ve visited this long barrow before but on each previous occasion the chambers have been closed to visitors. Today was my first opportunity to go inside.
A hot summer’s day, as we approached along the edge of a field of unripe wheat a raven rose up from the barrow – a good sign. Externally the barrow was covered in high grass and wild flowers – internally it was dark and cool with a low lintel stone to scramble under to gain access. The ground is covered with loose Cotswold stone chippings so hard on the knees, especially in light summer clothes. However, once inside it becomes almost possible to stand – I could see the chamber at the back of the barrow but did not venture that far in.

This is one of my favourite long barrows to visit – it always feels ‘away from it all’ in spite of the road only being a field distance away. Today there was a raven and later a buzzard.

Sad to report, the exterior of the lintel stone had been vandalised by some idiot scratching the word ‘Beware’ and someone’s name on it. My companion also reported similar damage inside.