Latest Fieldnotes

I guess it’s something of an irony that such a massive – apparently unexcavated (?) – cairn, overlooking one of the UK’s premier concentrations of prehistoric monuments, should have slumbered in TMA obscurity thus far – Greywether’s tantalising zoomed image notwithstanding. But there you are. The site has been on my list for years; however I always seemed to drive on past. As you do. To be fair, there is much else to see ‘round-abouts, particularly within Kilmartin Glen itself. Tell me about it.

This year, however, I find myself in Carnassarie Castle car park struggling into waterproofs in order to meet the challenge of lashing rain, precipitation which has seen fit to give Argyll a fair old pounding this afternoon, a few curious/bemused tourists looking on with a combination of pity/concern from within the sanctuary of their own vehicles. I follow the path to the castle – well worth a visit by the looks of it, I’d say – before carrying on toward Carnassarie Farm. As I approach a lady emerges from the farm house. But no need to fret... Gladman isn’t in for yet another tongue lashing. Quite the contrary, in fact. Yeah, it transpires she thinks I’m one of the frequent visitors who try to locate the nearby rock art unencumbered by any map reading skills... and is therefore, by all accounts, pleasantly surprised when I tell her I’m heading for Carn Ban.... if that’s OK? It is. The monument resides upon the well defined ridge rising straight ahead and requires quite a stiff, albeit short, climb. It is worth it, however. Carn Ban is a classic upland cairn of considerable dimensions, measuring (according to Canmore):

‘20m in diameter and over 3m in height with intermittent kerbstones in position throughout its perimeter. The height of the cairn is accentuated by the incorporation of natural outcrops, some of which protrude on the W, and it is now surmounted by a modern cairn. [RCAHMS 1988, visited June 1982]‘

As I arrive a further storm front blasts down the glen to give way, in ten minutes or so, to blue skies. Crazy, wonderful weather indeed. Such light, such an sublime sensation of ‘freshness’, the very atmosphere ‘washed clean’. The views to be enjoyed from the summit of the cairn are equally exquisite, none more so than that toward Kilmartin Glen itself to the south(ish). Mind you the excellent, hillfort-crowned Creag a’ Chapuill is also notable, rising beyond the A816 to the approx north-east. I guess I need to undertake more fieldwork – what a drag – to ascertain just how visible Carn Ban is from the more popular monuments within the Glen. However my impressions from up here are that Carn Ban was sited to ‘see’ rather than be seen, set back from the southern edge of the ridge, yet possessing an unrestricted view of the landscape beyond. Just keeping an ‘eye on things’, you understand?

Yeah, as I sit and ponder I reckon Carn Ban might possibly be the most important piece of the Kilmartin jigsaw. Only the thought of a visit to the wondrous Brainport alignment drags me away whilst daylight remains.

This year they investigated strong circular features shown by geophysics and thought to be revetments [IIRC] for a Wideford-like tomb under the mound, but abandoned this for the time being when their excavation failed to turn up anything substantial. I’m sure if they had followed the common practice of checking a previous antiquarian excavation or the area adjacent they would have had better results. Instead they were (mis)led to an area away on the periphery with less-well defined arcs. At least they seem to have found the edge of the tomb or whatever. However, being perverse, I found twa other things uncovered intriguing. Into/onto the slumped stone mass there is a small sub-circular structure not having the appearance of a chamber – hopefully this is not the planti-creugh shown near the mound on early diagrams, but if not what ? A few feet from this is a depression with some stone tumble – immediately uphill of these two features in the section is an area ?robbed of stone. If it were me I would want to go back and see if either of these two items represents post-monumental activity.

Visited May 19, 2013

Some 40 metres west of hunebed D40 Emmerveld Southeast lies hunebed D39 Emmerveld Southwest, still largely hidden by the ramains of its original mound. The eight side- and end-stones are buried deep in the sand with only their tops visible. Of the original three capstones, only one remains in place, the others either having been robbed in antiquity, or perhaps lying deep inside the grave. So deeply is the whole structure buried in the sand that the capstone seems almost to be resting on the ground itself.
For route directions, refer to D40.

Visited May 19, 2013

Some 50 metres northwest of hunebed D40 Emmerveld Southeast lies hunebed D38 Emmerveld North, which presents a rather sorry picture, only two of its original five capstones remaining in position, the others having long ago slid down into the central chamber. The eleven side- and end-stones seem rather diminuative, until it is realised that much of the original mound that was built over this hunebed is still in place. Like icebergs, almost all of the sidestones remain buried in sand.
For route directions, refer to D40.

Visited May 19, 2013

Although hunebed D40 Emmerveld Southeast today presents a splendid profile with two enormous capstones resting on four sidestones—of probably similar size—and a stone entranceway, it was not always so.
When the hunebed was originally built, these stones were simply the superstructure of the passage grave: all the spaces between the sidestones were packed with smaller stones and the entire structure was buried under an artificial mound of sand and turf.

As recently as 1918, when this hunebed was investigated by noted Dutch archaeologist Albert van Giffen, it was still partly covered over. Disappointingly, this hunebed revealed very few artefacts: just a few loose potsherds and three stone tools. In the decades since, the covering mound has been stripped away.

This splendid megalith can easily be reached on foot from Emmen Station. Head north along Weerdingerstraat for about 250 metres then follow the 3rd road on the left, Walstraat, to its intersection with Noordeinde at the western boundary of Emmen. Turn to the right and follow Nordeinde (which changes its name to Odoorneweg on the way) to a roundabout, where it is joined on the right by Valtherzandweg. Continue along Odoorneweg past the roundabout for 200 metres till you come upon a tree-lined farm track on your right (heading roughly north). There are prominent ‘Hunebed’ signs at the start of this track, so you can’t miss it. What follows is a pleasant woodland walk of about 700 metres to the clearing which contains hunebed D40 Emmerveld. The surroundings are delightful, consisting of open woodland and heather.

One of a trio of hunebedden, D38 and D39 lie just a few metres away in the same clearing.

More information from Hans Meijer’s website Dolmens in the Netherlands.

This site has mystery written all over it, one being why the TMA ed’s have not listed it under the West Kennet Avenue.

For the past 78 years, all you could see of this site is the unique, flat topped concrete post that marks the area out from the rest of the Avenue. What a lovely Lammas surprise then to find a caged area with a possie of sweaty archo’s crawling all over it’s subterranean, back to natural, features.

Digging anywhere around Avebury draws the crowds and a “meeter and greeter” is a must if the archo’s are to get down and dirty. I speak from direct experience of the Saxon car park dig in 1988 when every bus load of tourists walked over the site, asking questions and taking pictures, which added days to the dig schedule. It seemed the NT volunteers I spoke to had all been briefed from the same script and it was not until my third visit that I got the full low-down from “Dr.Nic”. It would have been easier to update my knowledge by reading the daily blog set up to supply a less than eager world with the latest word, but it seems to have gone unnoticed on channel TMA.

Site Background

In 1934 and 1935 Alexander Keiller excavated the part of the West Kennet Avenue that runs immediately south from Avebury Henge and the stone circles. Along most of the length that Keiller dug, he found a large hole had been dug in the medieval period, the standing stone pushed over into it and then buried. Here Keiller re-erected the stone in its original position. In other cases only the original socket that the Neolithic people had dug to stand the stone upright survived. Here Keiller placed small concrete obelisks to mark where they had once stood.

But there was one location where Keiller found neither stone nor socket. Instead he found the remains of a large rubbish heap (or midden) together with a number of holes and pits that had been dug into the ground. The finds from this midden show that the site was in use at the beginning of the later Neolithic. This may have been at the time, or a little before, the very earliest parts of the henge and stone circles were being built. Keiller identified this as an occupation site. At least part of this must have been visible when builders of the Avenue put the sarsen stones in place because instead of putting up a stone here they decided to leave a gap and incorporate it into their scheme.

The current dig is part of the “Between the Monuments” investigation which is trying to identify where the ancient people who built Avebury, lived and worked. Between the monuments is a collaborative research project set up between the university of Southampton (Dr. Josh Pollard), university of Leicester (Dr. Mark Gillings), Allen Environmental archaeology (Dr. Mike Allen) and the national Trust (Dr. Ros Cleal & Dr. Nic Snashall).

Although it was very interesting to talk to “Dr.Nic”, the results of this dig will not become clear until after the investigations are finished. I was granted permission to take photos of the site and some of the flint finds.

One thing that came over clearly, and was pointed out by all the “Dr.s” and diggers, was the time and effort the Keiller team had put into both the 1930’s excavation. They all commented on how carefully the area of the original diggers had been at uncovering artefacts and how carefully it had been back filled with the relevant strata and sub-soil.

The overall conclusion I gleamed was that it was more of a working site that habitation site. There were no bones, apart from more modern sheep ones and nearly all the other finds where the result of being washed down from the later settlement on Waden Hill above. The flints seemed to have been purposely buried in groups, not lost individually. Some of the flints were thought to be Paleolithic in age and again, purposely buried in pre-dug pits. The dig also revealed how the natural sub-terrain had been carved out by glacial action at the end of the last ice age, leaving a series of circle features.

If funding is forthcoming, the site may well be re-investigated at the same time next year. Watch this space.

Visited 25.7.13

We parked in the car park next to the village hall and while Karen and the children enjoyed an ice cream (Orkney ice cream at that!) I headed across the road to visit this small Hillfort. Upon crossing the road I noticed someone had erected a large ‘modern’ stone circle which was nice to see – traditions and all that.

Access was a bit difficult as I had to jump a barbed wire fence before fighting my way up the steep slope through chest high ferns. The easiest way to the top if from the western slope where there is a bit less vegetation and not as steep.

Upon reaching the summit the views are simply stunning. In one direction the mountains of Glen Coe and in the other the magnificent views out onto the Loch Leven. I could see no trace of the Hillfort (ferns could possibly be hiding something?).
A couple of rusty metal rings were inserted into the rock to presumably once have held a flag pole / beacon etc at some point?

Despite being small and very close to the road this isn’t the easiest site to access but well worth the effort for the views.

This is certainly a beautiful part of the world.

Visited 31.7.13

Directions:
Just above the beach at Armadale Bay – next to where the ferry leaves from Skye to the Scottish Mainland.

Karen went for her customary latte and a wander around the shops while I took the children for a play on the beach whilst we waited for the ferry.

The Barrow is very easy to spot (centrally positioned above the beach) and would have been a prominent feature to the ancient sea farers.
These days the Barrow is covered in brambles, long grass and a large tree.

Well worth a look if you are ever here for the ferry or for a look around the excellent photographic shop/gallery of Grumpy George!

‘A view from the roadside’ 31.7.13

Spotted this Dun on the O/S map and as we were heading down the A851 to catch the ferry at Armadale I thought it was worth a quick look. We pulled in a convenient lay-by.

I had intended to try to actually visit the site but it immediately became apparent that it would take quite a time to battle through the trees to attempt this – if indeed it was possible at all? There is no public right of way to the Dun.

From the beach it would be impossible unless you happen to be Spider-Man.
The cliffs are vertical and high. The site itself didn’t look to be that big so I guess that over the years the promontory has been eroded by the sea and when first built the site would have been a lot bigger?

One of two known stones that have cupmarks in Downshill townland. This is the easier to find, over the hedge from the road. However, if approaching from the north, enter the next field to its north and walk to the the gate about 100 metres down.

There are 8 worn cupmarks along the highest ridge of this metre long stone. The Sugar Loaf just peeps over the horizon line to the north. There are said to be more cups down the south-east side of the stone but I didn’t make them out.

The other stone lies almost due east of here, but as the farmer was working with heavy machinery nearby I didn’t try to find it.

These two stones, one single and portable and one a triple bullaun, are in the isolated townland of Ballard, above the Avonmore River and north-west of the peak of Trooperstown Hill. The single bullaun stone has been damaged some time ago but is a little gem in itself, a Wicklow granite stone with a weathered brown look.

The triple bullaun, a glacial erratic, is thought to be in its original location, now incorporated into the wall at the gable end of a cottage. It’s quite a tall stone, well over a metre when you stand on the road, and the bowls are not immediately apparent as you stroll by.

On the day I visited all three were holding water, one with some type of seed floating within, all three quite magical in their beauty and simplicity. Two are set quite close to each other to the south, with a natural channel connecting them – the other, the largest, is the one with the seeds in the photo.

Quite a journey to get to if approached from the Annamoe to Laragh road, through the forestry tracks and all, but very well worth a visit. I did knock at the cottage but there was nobody home at the time.

Visited 28.7.13

Directions:
Driving south along the A76 take the B731 west shortly after passing through Thornhill. The take the first turning on the left. You will pass Templand Mains Farm on the left and the standing stone can then be seen in the middle of a field on your right – near a telegraph pole on the brow of a small rise. Access is via a metal field gate.

We pulled in at the field gate and Karen stayed in the car while the children were (thankfully) asleep. There is no public right of way so I assume you should ask permission from the farm – or does the Scottish ‘right to roam’ apply? (I’m not really sure what this actually means). I chose to hop over the gate and skirt the edge of the field before striking out for the stone. The field was empty and it is only a 5 minute walk from the gate.

The stone is about 4ft high and is a curious L shape – forming a ‘chair shape’. In fact I couldn’t help but sit in the ‘chair’ and very comfortable it was too! A single large stone was at the base of the standing stone.
The sun was warm and the only sound was the distant thuds of shotguns.
Decent views were has across the fairly flat countryside.

Certainly one to recommend when in the area.
Surprised no one has previously posted fieldnotes for this easy to access site.

Canmore states:
‘The remains of a stone circle which gives its name to the farm. Two stones were still standing in 1806 but only one in 1913’.

p.s.
Why would someone remove one stone but leave the other? Unless they also used it as a chair!?

After purchasing some ‘wets’ and boots in Pitlochry I was back on my travels. Unlike the Canmore picture, obviously taken some time ago, Tulloch cairn is covered in trees. Also unlike the old picture the south side of the cairn is damaged, maybe weather affected but with some human assistance. However this does let us see how the cairn was constructed. It sits at over 27 meters wide, 4 meters high and has a 10 meter plateau on top.

I pulled in on the north side, after the Tulloch B and B, on the A924. Follow the track thru a small wood until a corregated iron hut. The cairn is next to the track on the north side.

Unfortunately there was more to see at the cairn than I’d expected. What looks like ritualistic slaughter/sacrifice has happened. Skulls of various beasts are sitting on rocks to the north side all over the place. More sinister is a circle of skulls with a bigger skull sitting in the middle. Sadly several rotting carcasses are nearby. Bones are splattered all over the place. (see pics) Who or whatever did this, imo, have a very sick attitude. I contacted the police and investigations are under way, so far fox traps have been ruled out. Once I find out more I’ll post it here.

Visited 1/8/2013.

Visited 28.7.13

Is it really a whole year since I last visited? – time certainly flies the older you get!
This time we parked at the top of the field on the grass verge with an information panel attached to a large boulder. ‘The largest stone circle in Scotland’ the sign proudly states – and quite right too.

Anyway, a quieter visit than last time – no cows to be seen so I had the place to myself. The weather was glorious with hot sunshine and white fluffy clouds. The grass was long but dry.

I did the customary walk around the stones.
Is it me or does everyone walks around a stone circle on the outside and usually in an anti-clockwise direction? Just a thought.

It is funny how when you re-visit a site you often see it in a different light. No doubt due to your memory playing tricks on you plus the mood you were in and the weather etc. The circle was bigger than I remembered and the site much more impressive.

It goes without saying that this is a ‘must see’ site when in the area and on a day like today it is a very good place to be.

Visited 24.7.13

Directions:
Take the country lane north out of the village of Levens and then the turning on the right towards the hotel. The Cairns are in the field on your left before you reach the hotel. You can park outside Heaves Farm and then follow the public footpath (signposted) opposite. Go through the first field, head to the right past the trees (through a gate with info board) and the large Cairn will soon come into sight.

Wow, what a huge Cairn, how has this not been put on TMA before now?
Even stranger is the fact that E.H. has nothing to report on these Cairns?

The sun was shining as I walked across the fields with only a few cows and sheep for company. The slight breeze helped to keep me cool. Good views could be had out towards the Lake District.

The first (larger) Cairn is a whopper – about 3m high x 50m across – covered in trees.
There were several cows sheltering in the shade on the Cairn. I wonder if they were enjoying the view as much as me? Lots of stones were sticking out of the mound.

The second Cairn (a little to the east) is the smaller of the two. It is about 1m high x 15m across. It has a single tree growing out of the top of it. It has no grass growing over the centre of it and has been hollowed out at some point. Well mangled.

This is a good place to visit, particularly to see the larger Cairn.
Well worth the effort when in the area.

Visited 24.7.13

Directions:
On the side of the A592 just north of Ambleside.
Left hand side when travelling north.

The Kirkstone is easily seen on a rise above the road. There are several lay-bys you can pull into but the best place to park is a dedicated car park just north of the stone. Access is then via a ‘path’ up the hill – short steep walk.

The Kirkstone is approximately 3.5m tall x 3m wide (it looks bigger from the road)
From the stone there are fantastic views to be had to the north overlooking Brother’s Water.

This is definitely a place worth stopping off for – for the views alone if nothing else.

Visited 24.7.13

Directions:
Heading north along the A592 (near Ambleside) you pass through Troutbeck.
Keep an eye out for a rough track way on your right and a small lay-by directly opposite – park here. Follow the track way (as such it is) downhill keeping the stone wall to your left. You pass through some trees and cross a small stream. Keep going a little further and you will go through an old stone doorway of a ruined building.
Right in front of you will be the remains of the stone circle.

Without doubt this was the best site I visited today – fab!
Yes the circle is ruined (with a track running through it – what was all that about?) but enough of it remains to give an idea of how it would have looked in its prime.
The ‘entrance’ formed by the old moss covered stones of the doorway only adds to the experience.

5 stones remain from the inner circle and further 3 from the outer ring – embedded into a wall. There are lots of other large stones scattered about. I have no idea if any of these are from the circle or not.

The sun was shining and the light dappled through the trees.
If it wasn’t for the trees there would be great views up the valley.
If the stone circle was complete I would rate the site as highly as the circle at Swineside/Sunkenkirk – the location really is that good.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit here (exceeding expectations) and I would heartily encourage those who are able to do so to also visit.

Visited September 5, 2012

Hunebed D10 Gasteren is located in the Gasterse Duinen, a nature reserve covered in stretches of sand dunes and peaty heathland. Nowadays it is fenced off because it is used as a grazing area for sheep and highland cattle, but remains open for access to walkers. It is at its best in August and September, when the surrounding heather is in bloom.

From the centre of the village of Gasteren, head north along Oudemolenseweg for just under a kilometre, where you will find a car-park on the right. From here, a sandy footpath leads eastward through the heath and after just 150 metres you will be standing beside the hunebed.

D10 is a small and somewhat incomplete hunebed. Only two of the original four capstones remain, although it still retains its full complement of side stones and end stones.

If you walk or cycle from Gasteren to the hunebed, you can vary your return by continuing along the footpath for another 150 metres till you encounter Schipborgerweg. Head to the right along this road, which rejoins Oudemolenseweg after 400 metres and takes you back to the village.

You can view a short movie about D10 on YouTube.

Visited September 5, 2012

Hunebed D8 Kniphorstbos is a really nice, totally complete hunebed, lying in attractive woodland, slightly more than a kilometre west of the town of Annen, in Drenthe.

Following botched attempts at restoration in the second half of the 19th century, D8 was fully restored in 1952. Now it is a particularly fine medium-sized hunebed, boasting eight sidestones and two endstones: with all four of its original capstones in place.

Bus 58 from Assen Station to Groningen takes you to Annen in 27 minutes. Be sure to exit at the bus halt named ‘Hunebed’ on Zuidlaarderweg (right beside hunebed D9 Annen/Noordloo). Now walk about 100 metres northwest, past the roundabout, and turn left (west) along Schipborgerweg for 600 metres—then follow the pedestrian/cycle underpass below the N34 highway. On the far side of the N34 you emerge in woodland. Continue to walk on in the same direction, along the woodland path, until you reach the 2nd crossroads (after another 250 metres or so) and turn left (south). About 50 metres on, in a clearing on your left, is D8 Kniphorstbos.

You can view a short video of D8 and its surroundings on YouTube.

Visited 3.8.13

It took a little while to find the stone as it can’t be seen from the roads running through Taynuilt. The kind lady working in Graham’s Grocers came out of the shop to point me in the right direction. The stone can actually be found by walking a short distance up the lane which runs alongside the grocers.

The stone is set on a high grass mound and it about 3m tall – slender and 3 sided.
An inscription about Lord Nelson has been inscribed on the stone itself. There is also an info board.

As greywether states the mountains in the distance offer a great backdrop.

Well worth a look if in the area; as I was when visiting the nearby Bonawe Historic Iron Furnace – that’s another Historic Scotland site knocked off the list!

Visited 3.8.13

Directions:
Take the A83 west out of Inverary until you see the sign (on your right) for the golf course. Turn here and follow the lane until you reach the car park. Walk up the lane, past the Scottish Water treatment works, and continue along the muddy track running through the trees. The Cairns are in the large field to your right. It is a bit of a walk.
**Please note that the lane to the south of the cairns shown on the O/S map does no longer exist on the ground!**

The rain continued to fall and it was not easy getting from the track to the field. Firstly I had to go down a steepish bank through the trees and then jump over the stream running parallel to the field. Then there was a barbed wire fence to negotiate.

All I managed to achieve was muddy boots. I could see no sign of the Cairns in the undulating field of long grass.
Upon later studying the O/S map a bit closer it is possible I came off the track too far early and should have walked a bit further east before looking for the Cairns? On the other hand it is also possible that (at this time of year?) there is nothing to see?

All in all, not one to recommend.

Visited 3.8.13

I had previously visited Inverary Castle a number of years ago but (at that time) was unaware of the standing stone in the castle grounds.

After another visit to the picturesque Inverary village it was time I corrected that omission.

We drove up the drive towards the car park and pulled up near the playing pitches.
A game of shinty was in progress and just as I arrived the reds scored what looked to be a last minute winner judging by the excitement (I have no idea which teams were playing?)

My ‘excitement’ of course was with the tall (approx 3m) standing stone situated a little behind the goal.
The stone is a good ‘un and well worth the minimal effort required in visiting.

The castle is also worth a visit if you are so inclined – the tea rooms are not bad either!

Visited 3.8.13

Directions:
From Inverary take the A83 west.
We parked at the field gate but be warned that it is on a bend and this is a very bust road. Ideally it would be better to park somewhere safer and walk to the field gate.

It was pouring down – in a typically Scottish summer sort of way. Karen sat in the car with the children while I jumped over the metal field gate and headed up the ‘path’. I immediately came off the path and headed to the top of the grass bank on my right. As soon as I reached the top of the hillock the Cairn came into sight.

Two stones remain, one about 1m high and the other about 0.5m high.
Three trees share the hillock with the stones. The grass was tall and very wet.
Due to the low cloud, mist and rain I can’t comment on the view.
I didn’t hang around for very long.

Upon returning to the car I noticed that the top of the taller stone is visible from the metal field gate but not visible when on the ‘path’.

Visited 1.8.13

Despite the miserable weather (it was windy and pouring down) Iona is a fantastic place to visit.
I couldn’t get over how fantastic the quality of the beach and the cleanliness of the water was.
Although we were soaked through it didn’t stop us playing on the beach while we waited for the ferry. I am sure the other visitors sheltering in the nearby buildings mush have thought we were mad!
On a sunny day this would be a great place to spend the day and have a picnic.

As for the Bullaun Stone it is no longer next to the well.
I couldn’t see it and there was no one I could ask as both the visitor centre and the H.S. office were closed for the day.

If you ever get the chance to visit Iona and its Abbey, stone crosses etc please do so – you won’t be disappointed.
St Columba may have chosen a remote place to set up shop but he sure knew how to pick a stunning location.

The Witch’s Stone has somehow been classified as a standing stone by Canmore, obviously drinking whatever old Fred Coles or possibly myself drank. More likely it is a massive glacerial sitting at 7 meters wide and 7 meters tall complete with a tree growing on top. On another day magnificent views of the Ardle valley would be seen but today clouds and mist. At least it had stopped raining, for a wee while. There must be hopefully some folklore about this place.

Visited 1/8/2013.