Latest Fieldnotes

Visited: August 31, 2013

Situated on a steep rocky knoll, just back from the foreshore of the Tigh a’Mholain peninsula at the head of Loch Duich, and less than two kilometres north of Shiel Bridge, lie the scant remains of Dunan Diarmid. Access from the landward side is denied by fencing, so you have to appproach along the shoreline, the easiest ascent to the summit being via the grassy eastern slopes.

If ever a location was deserving of a dun, this is it, moreso the disappointment on reaching the top: there is almost nothing to be seen. The small summit area is covered by grasses and wild flowers, and the only remaining evidence of Dunan Diarmid is a saucer-shaped grassy hollow to the north, delineated by a grassy bank a mere 30 centimetres high and less than half a metre wide. I spotted one earthfast kerbstone set into the south of the bank, and it is more than likely that more underlie it throughout its circumference.

There is no doubt that this dun would have commanded an exceptionally fine view in all directions. The sadness is that there is so little remaining to enjoy.

Visited: September 5, 2013

This broch lies hidden, separated by 500 metres of trackless, boggy moorland from the road-end at the village of Suladale.

A visit to Dùn Suladale is not for the casual walker. To gain this broch you have to cross one of the bleakest tracts of moorland on Skye: unrelentingly wet and boggy, without a hint of path to ease your way. Although the distance to be covered is only half a kilometre on the map, you will feel that you have covered several times this by the time you gain your target. You will need boots for sure, and a map and compass are strongly recommended to ensure you start the return journey in the correct direction: there are simply no indicators in the vicinity of the broch from which to take bearings back to the road.

That said, Dùn Suladale is a real gem. Both externally and internally, the walls stand six and more courses high around most of the circumference. On the east a distinct entranceway lined by blocks leads into the broch and another entrance portal topped by a sturdy slab lintel lies partly buried in rubble at the north. There’s plenty structure to see, including two side chambers, as well as part of a staircase within the walls .

Dùn Suladale is the best preserved broch on the island, probably due to its remoteness.

You can learn more about this broch from Canmore.

Visited: September 6, 2013

Canmore refers to this as Cnocan Nan Cobhar, though it’s often termed ‘Cnocan na Gobhar’, a truly massive Long Cairn in the woodlands southeast of Kilmarie on Skye.

Indeed, the cairn is so massive that I at first missed it, walking past it thinking it was just the steep riverbank. It’s the size of a house, but so heavily overgrown with rank vegetation, shrubs and bracken that it just blends into its surroundings. The giveaway is its summit, which reveals a number of boulders amongst the bracken.

This cairn can be difficult to find—I took two attempts. My starting point was the forestry gate at NG552177 on the road just northeast of Kilmarie. There is room to park and a kissing gate for access. After about 150 metres there is another gate to pass, then the path soon dips to a low point where it crosses a rushing stream, before climbing again.

Some 10-15 metres past this low point, on the right, a footpath heads due south towards the footbridge over the Kilmarie river (a ‘No Camping – No Fires’ notice conveniently marks the spot). Follow this path all the way to the bridge and turn left, where a footpath follows the riverbank towards the sea. Cnocan Nan Cobhar, which rises from the riverbank, is now in view, on your left, about 20 metres downstream.

Visited 29.8.13

Directions:
From the junction of the A494 / A5, take the A494 south west.
Then take the first turning left (south) after the B4402 turn off.
The ‘settlement’ is on the top of the hill on your right, just before the trees.
There is a passing place you can park opposite the metal field gate which gives access to the site.

I hopped over the gate and walked up the hill towards the top. It is a rough grass area and soon a low curving bank can be seen in front of a hedgerow. It is about 1m high and as far as I could see was the only surviving part of the ‘settlement’.

There was another (open) gate I walked through in order to walk around the summit and enjoy the wonderful views. The area was covered in thistles and the nervous sheep darted in all directions as I strolled around.

After satisfying myself that there was nothing else to see I strolled back down the hill to the car. Just as I reached the lane a Land Rover complete with barking dogs drove past me and pulled in at the gate I had just climbed over. ‘Oh ho’ I thought to myself.

‘Was that you up there just now?’ asked the not very happy farmer jumping out of vehicle.
‘Yes’ I replied (there was no point denying it.
‘I saw the sheep being frightened and saw you walking about on top’
‘Yes’ I explained ‘I was looking at the settlement/hillort’ (showing him my notes/map of the place. ‘I hope you don’t mind but I didn’t know who to ask for permission and I was only looking around. There are great views from the top’ I semi-grovelled.
‘Yes’ he agreed. ‘We have to be careful because there is a lot of theft going on these days, sheep rustling etc’
‘Fair comment’ I thought

After a pause and looking at my paperwork the farmer mellowed a fair bit (although I suspect he was still far from being a happy bunny!) and told me about the Cadw visits he has from time to time. He also confirmed that the bit of banking I saw was the only part left to see.

We deprated in a semi-friendly manner and I headed off to the other sites I had on my list. If you are planning a visit (in all honesty this isn’t somewhere I would recommend anyway) it would be wise to seek permission first!

Although marked as settlement on the O/S map, Coflein have it as a Hillfort. This is what they have to say:
‘An oval hillfort, approx 68m by 75m, defined by a bank, ditch and counterscarp. A house-platform and associated structures/enclosures impinge on the southern rampart and appear to be later’.

Visited 29.8.13

My last site of the day and what a great place to finish with!

The weather had been glorious and I was eager to watch the sun go down from this stone circle, high in the hills – who wouldn’t?

I took the turning east, off the B4401, just north of Llanrillo, and headed up the lane. Where the lane forked I made the mistake of continuing to drive up hill instead of parking. The lane soon became a narrow rough track but there was nowhere to turn and I was committed to keep on driving. The track was very steep and I had to continue in 1st gear only. At the top of the track I was confronted by a closed metal field gate which I had no choice but to open and drive through. I decided to leave the car parked here (there was no one about this time of day) and continue uphill on foot.

I then came to another closed gate which had a warning notice attached stating that this was a SSI area and that motor vehicles were prohibited beyond this point. This made me feel a bit better about where I had left my car further down hill. The circle was still not visible so I made my way up to the highest point, over to my left. As I approached the top of the hill – there it was, a small but perfectly formed stone circle.

I first walked around the outside of the circle (anti-clockwise as usual) and then walked around the inside, studying each stone in turn. In the centre of the circle was a depression and a couple of large flat stones lying on the grass. They seemed to by overlying the cist – presumably to protect it? Either way, they made for a good place to sit. The circle consists of about 40 stones and is approximately 10m across.

It really was a beautiful evening and I sat and admired the views up and down the valley. The sun was starting to set behind the distant hills, silhouetting them against the reddening sky. All was quiet except for the bleating of the sheep and the chirping of birds. A bird of prey glided silently overhead. Nothing more than the faintest of breezes.
Bliss would be a good word to use to describe how I felt. I couldn’t have wished to have been anywhere else.

This is a fantastic site and has to be a ‘must see’ when in the area. It reminded me very much of a mini Castlerigg – I can give it no higher compliment. Like Castlerigg the distant hills seemed to form a natural amphitheatre. When the ancients chose this site they knew what they were doing. ‘Primitive man’ indeed!!!!!!!!

After the sun had set I made my way back to the car, opened the gate, and carefully drove back to the main road. All was well with the world – my world at least!

If you do get the chance please pay Moel ty Uchaf a visit but best to park at the first fork in the road. There is ample room there but it will require a fairly long and steep walk to reach the circle. You will think it well worth it!

P.S.
After arriving home I looked at Burl’s book (page 179) to see what he had to say.
Burl mentions an outlying stone to the NNE and the remains of a Cairn 80 yards to the south – neither of which I knew about or spotted. I was too entranced with the stone circle!

Visited 29.8.13

Directions:
From Coed y Bedo standing stone continue north along the very narrow (and very steep) lane. After about 1 mile you will pass Rhydywernen Farm. Once you have passed the farm look down into the field far below and you will see a pile of stones – this is the Cairn!

I opted to view the Cairn from the roadside (nowhere to park) as a closer look would have meant driving to the farm and asking permission. Coflein didn’t sound too promising so I didn’t bother.

The countryside around here is fantastic; unfortunately what is left to see of the Cairn isn’t. One for the very keen only.

Coflein states:
‘Irregular pile of stones, partly derived from recent field clearance, partly robbed. Cist alleged c 1900’

Visited 29.8.13

Directions:
On the eastern side of a narrow road, north of the A494, shortly before the B442 turn off (when driving east along the A494).
The stone is in a field near Ysgubor Fawr Farm.

Although the standing stone is visible from the road, a public right of way gives access across the field to the stone – although there is no sign of any ‘path’ on the ground. There is a public footpath sign pointing the way though.

Access is over a metal gate (at the top of the farm drive) and make your way as best you can across a bogy field of spiky grass. I wouldn’t fancy crossing this field in the middle of winter.

The stone is of a decent size and its texture reminded me of the bark on a tree, all textured and gnarled.

A good stone in a nice location and well worth a visit when in the area.

Visited 29.8.13

Time was short as I was desperate to get to Moel ty Uchaf to watch the sun go down so instead of doing what would have been best – to ask permission at the farm for a proper look around – I settled for a view from the roadside.

The stones nearest the road laying flat) looked huge.
I am sure if the stones were re-erected it would be an impressive sight.
Definitely one to re-visit next time I am up this way – which hopefully won’t be too long.

Burl notes – possibly, originally a free-standing stone circle. Consisting of 22 stones – 55ft across. The cairn may have been added later which stands to a height of 1m.

Visited 29.8.13

What a great site to visit this is!

I left Karen and the children in the caravan early evening in order to get out and do a bit of ‘old stoning’. It was a lovely late summer’s evening and the sun was shining through the trees as I drove along the narrow lanes. The minor roads around here are particularly narrow with few passing places. Luckily I seemed to be the only one out and about! The scenery is beautiful and with the sun shining and empty roads it felt like being in one of those car adverts. You know, the ones where you are the only person in the country driving around!

As I approached the site I passed loads of pheasants that were scurrying around. I am surprised I don’t see more of these birds squashed on the road than I do as they have absolutely no sense at all.

The tomb is easily seen from the road and it is easy to park next to the field fence.
There is a handy stile into the field so access is not a problem.
Several cows were standing guard over the tomb but they moved away as I approached.

The first thing I noticed were the ribbons tied to the lower branches of the tree nearest Branas Uchaf – they look like they have been there for some time. Then of course there is the tomb itself. There are two large stones still standing and several large stones lying flat on the ground. The footprint of the tomb can quite easily be made out as a small rise.

This is a beautiful location (especially on an evening like today) and a place I can thoroughly recommend. If you happen to be in the area, do yourself a favour and visit this lovely place.

Visited 29.8.13

Tan-y-Coed is just about visible from the road – if you know where to look
(clue – look for it behind the stone wall!)

There is just about room to squeeze one car in at the field gate. I walked down the track and as Postie states the Cairn is now nowhere to be seen.
You have to get right up next to it (or walk in the opposite direction) to be able to see it.

Once you have located the Cairn the first thing to strike you is the size of the capstone – it is massive! This is one of those sites where I suspect the Cairn was constructed where they found the erratic they used as the capstone as opposed to dragging the stone here from somewhere else.

The one end of the stone is slightly raised (about 1ft) and the gap has been filled in with loose stones – perhaps to keep animals out?
Most of the Cairn (approx 1m high x 30m long) is covered with nettles.

It is well worth visiting this site to not only see the size of the capstone but also appreciate the wonderful surrounding countryside.

Visited 30.8.13

After spending several hours on the beach in the lovely town of Barmouth (despite the drizzle) we ‘happened’ to be driving past this fine site on our way up to Harlech and its great castle (well worth visiting).

Well, I just had to pop in and say hello – didn’t I?

The others sat in the car and I headed up the lane and through the kissing gate.

Everything was just as I remembered although perhaps a little smaller?
I had the place to myself and was delighted to observe that not one piece of litter was to be seen – despite this being a well know site just off the main road. In fact, at all the sites I visited over the 3 days of my mini-break in North Wales I didn’t see one item of litter. Any North Wallians reading this can hold their heads up with pride – you obviously respect your past.

Are you listening South Wales?

Visited 28.8.13

Directions:
From Tyfos Kerbed Cairn continue north along the very narrow minor road.
The ‘mound’ is behind a couple of large private buildings and cannot be seen from the road.

Although the O/S map shows a public footpath to the east of the ‘mound’, past the buildings, I could see no trace of it on the ground.

I chanced my arm and jumped over the wooden gate and (as quietly as I could) walked down the rough track through the trees and towards the buildings. I have to say I felt uneasy the whole time and I was clearly somewhere I shouldn’t have been. I continued down the track until I came to a large garden brick wall. At this point I turned chicken and retraced my steps as quick as I could.

If you do plan to visit this site I would strongly suggest you ask permission at the houses.

Coflein states:
‘A circular mound set on the edge of a river terrace, 14m in diameter and 2m high, with kerbing on the E side. Set in a landscaped garden / park’.

Visited 28.8.13

Directions:
When travelling north along the B4518, take the turning right in the centre of Pant-y-dwr. A short distance along this minor road you will see a small wood on your left.
The Barrow is located on top of the hill at the edge of the trees – eastern side.

I parked on the verge and made my way up through the trees towards the top of the hill. This way avoided the need to climb over some of the barbed wire fences you would need to if you ascend the hill through the fields.
The going is not easy and on a few occasions I had to battle my way through the undergrowth / bushes etc. The going does get a bit easier the higher you climb.

Near the top I had to climb over one barbed wire fence to get into the field where the Barrow resides. The Barrow is a grass covered mound – easy to spot.

All was quiet at the Barrow except for the bleating sheep who didn’t seem to mind my intrusion. Two red kites hovered silently overhead – they really are beautiful birds.
The sun was shining and there were fabulous views to be had across the countryside.
This really is a beautiful part of Wales.

Well worth the effort if you happen to be in the area and are reasonably mobile.

Coflein states:
‘A round barrow, 23m in diameter and 1.8m high, set upon a local summit’.

Viewed from roadside 28.8.13

The Barrow was easy enough to spot amongst the trees, next to buildings.
You would need to ask permission for a closer look as a ‘sneak visit’ would be out of the question.

I didn’t have the time to look for someone to ask to a view from the road it was.

Visited 28.8.13

The Barrow on the western side of the road is easy enough to spot as a rough ‘mound’. It is right next to the road – the other side of a fence.

The Barrow on the eastern side is a lot more difficult to spot. I think I saw it as a low ‘bump’ in the field – approximately 1m high x 10m across. It is opposite a barn full of horses and has been cut in half by a field hedge.
If this was the Barrow of course?

Visited 28.8.13

Like Postie I decided to approach the Barrows from the south even though I entered Staylittle from the north.

Using Postie’s numbering system (if I have read it right!) I saw the following Barrows:
(I have added Coflein info for each of these Barrows)

First up was Barrow 7 – easily seen from the side of the road.
Coflein calls this Barrow 5 and states: ‘SN87459087 – a circular mound, 20m in diameter and 1.6m high, bearing the scar of its opening in 1909’.

Next was Barrow 6 – a shortish walk up the hill and easily seen amid the cut down trees. Good views from here.
Coflein calls this Clap Mawr Barrow and states:
‘SN88089157 – a circular mound, 20m in diameter and 1.6m high, one of several similar monuments in the Penfforddlas area that have been trenched, with unspecified human bones and weapons being found’.

As you continue north and enter Staylittle there is a Barrow on the left next to a building. Coflein calls this Llwyn-y-Gog Barrow and states:
‘SN87709204 – a circular mound, 29.5m in diameter and 1.9m high’.

Barrow 5, on the opposite side of the road is recorded as Forest Lodge Barrow. Again, this is easily seen from the road. Coflein states:
‘SN88009199 – a sub-circular mound, 22m by 16m and 1.8m high’.

The last two Barrows 1 and 2 are funnily enough also recorded on Coflein as Barrow 1 and 2! There is room to park next to the gate and a fairly short walk brings you next to both Barrows. It is a pleasant walk and recommended. Decent views from the Barrows. Coflein states:
‘Barrow 2 – SN87739230 – a mutilated, sub-circular mound, 22m by 16m and 1.8m high. Barrow 1 – SN87819236 – a circular mound, 17m in diameter and 1.2m high. Excavation in 1903 produced an urn and a five year old cow burial’.

So there we have it. Hope this makes sense?
As Postie states, this is a hidden gem of a place and one well worth exploring when in the area.

In stark contrast to a number of other monuments in the area..... there is actually a fair volume of cairn material remaining in this, the lower of the two chambered cairns sited to the north of Loch Borralan.

According to fieldwork undertaken for Assynt’s ‘Hidden Lives Project’ [2009] the cairn is “...approximately 15m by 12m, aligned E-W with a maximum height of 2m.” Sadly the report adds “The site has been described as a round cairn of Orkney-Cromarty group with a polygonal chamber [by Audrey Henshall – Gladman]. There is no evidence of the slabs of the bi-partite chamber as described in 1911 and the site appears to have been considerably disturbed since the last report from 1962”. Pity. No, more’s the pity, but there you are. No one died. In historic times, anyway! However, for what it’s worth – needless to say more opinion required – I was less than convinced that no trace of the ‘former’ chamber is visible, this layman noting a couple of ‘slab-like’ orthostats upon the approx southern arc. Splitting hairs, perhaps.... and, from my perspective, Nick is correct to assert that there is not a great deal of ‘proper’ structural archaeology to see. But....

There is more to these great northern Highland sites than the surviving archaeology... the location upon the shore of Loch Borralan is, in my opinion, truly exquisite. Oh, come on! What is not to like? Particularly with a large, well defined crannog visible within the loch to the north-west, that serrated Inverpolly skyline.... including Suilven (!!)... and, last but not least – to my mind – one of Scotland’s most enigmatic chambered cairns keeping watch above, perched, almost incognito, upon the steep hillside to approx north-east. Taken as a pair the Loch Borralan chambered cairns are surely ‘the business’. The lower, at the very least, is a worthwhile apperitif.

I reckon well worth a visit, then. If you fancy it, drive past the Altnacealgach Motel (heading north-west, that is) and the site will be found lochside, opposite the second main house encountered (I think). The great eastern monument stands above and to the right of said house.

Visited 29.8.13

I didn’t realise I had been here before!

Anyway, ee parked at the field gate and I had a quick look at the large stones acting as gate posts. I then climbed over the gate and walked up the hill towards Caer Caradog. It is only a short walk and isn’t too steep.

It was a pleasant late summer’s evening and all was quiet except for the bleating of the sheep. Just a hint of a breeze to keep you cool. and the sun popping in and out of the clouds.

The bank/ditch is pretty well preserved and I took a gentle stroll all the way around the Hillfort. From the inside the bank is about 1 metre high / about 3 metres from the bottom of the ditch. I startled a few rabbits on the way around.

There are wonderful views to be had. I also had a look at the large boulder in the northern ditch – I wonder how it ended up there?

When I got back to the car Karen said that the people living in Pen-y-Gaer Farm had come out to see what we were doing but went back in without saying anything. I don’t know if they own the land but there is a public right of way to the eastern side of the Hillfort but (technically speaking) not all around the site.

In reality there is no sign of a footpath on the ground and I wandered around regardless.
It’s not as if I was doing any harm after all………

Well worth a visit when in this part of the world.

Visited 30.8.13

As with Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant one to seek out when visiting the famous waterfall a short distance to the north.

The easiest point of access is to take the B4396 turning off the B4580.
This takes you to the north of the standing stone and a metal field gate (the stone is easily seen from here – next to the hedgerow). Hop over the gate and it is only a short walk to the stone.

A public right of way crosses the field but not via the gate.
When I visited it was late afternoon and the field was empty so it wasn’t a problem.

I realised when I visited that I had seen this standing stone before several years ago as a ‘drive by’ after visiting the waterfall.

Surprised no-one has posted field notes before?

Visited 30.8.13

Despite being about 3 metres high and standing right next to the road I nearly missed this first time of looking. The reason is that it is right next to a lamp post on a sharp bend in the road. It is actually next to a house called Gwnfa, if that is any help?

It is nice when ‘old stones’ survive in such (relatively) build up areas.

Well worth a look when visiting the nearby famous (and spectacular) waterfall.

In a steeply sloping field that leads to the top of Trooperstown Hill, the stone slopes with the field and the basin is placed near the top. The basin is relatively small, dry today, but when it fills with water, it can be seen that it overflows and has caused a channel to erode away on the lower spine of the rock.

Earthfast bullaun in the so-called ‘Church-field’ in Trooperstown, one deep basin and one shallow. This is another of the prayer-type stones, probably with folklore attached that the basins are the impressions of a saint’s knees, made while he prayed. Maybe he had one leg shorter than the other, but that’s only speculation.

When we arrived at this there were three local kids sitting on the bench beside it. I got out of the car and started to take pictures. One of the kids asked me why I was taking pictures of the ‘bird-bath’. I explained that it was an ancient stone, probably carved well over two thousand years ago only to be met with a vacant stare and an “Oh”, followed quickly by all three heading off. It’s ok, I said to myself, maybe you planted a seed in one of their minds and they’ll develop an interest in their ancestry and culture. Yeah, right.

One of four bullauns in Lickeen townland, this is semi-submerged with only one of it;’s two basins partially visible. There was a thorn tree here until recently, but no more. The farmer leaves this patch of his pristine field alone. It would be nice to see the stone dug up some day.

Archaeologically speaking this site rising to the north of Stratheskie farm possesses, in my opinion, the finest surviving remains of the three chambered cairns located in the immediate vicinity of Cnoc Chaornaidh. As such, it was perhaps inevitable that it would occupy the position with (arguably) the least intoxicating views, set upon a saddle between the aforementioned craggy eminence and the terminus of its western spur, the latter obscuring that utterly wondrous Inverpolly skyline. What a drag! However the disappointment is relative, of course, the sweeping vista to the south-east, not to mention that northwards toward Benmore Forest, well worth an eulogy or two in their own right. Yeah, if only I had the words.......

According to Audrey Henshall (1963) this monument represents another chambered cairn of Orkney-Cromarty type – albeit lacking the cairn, yet again – with the majority of the uprights of a polygonal chamber still in place, together with “a number of considerable and apparently widely spaced stones on the periphery”. J M Howell [1976] reckoned the cairn was originally heel shaped, as opposed to round. To be honest it is a surprisingly substantial monument to ‘stumble across’ upon a Scottish hillside, raising the question of just how much more is ‘out there’ awaiting (re)discovery by the amateur punter? I would surmise ‘quite a lot’, to be fair. Although the chamber stones are not as large as those forming the chambered cairn below to the south-east, the structure here is more coherent. If only some of the accompanying cairn had survived this would indeed have been a classic to rival the upper site at Loch Borralan to the north-west.

But there you are.... what might have been, eh? However with brilliant washes of golden sunlight streaming through a gloweringly dark cloud mantle to illuminate chambered cairn and landscape as one, this is nevertheless still a hauntingly evocative place to rest for a while. Quality. Even if the traveller is denied a view of the splendid Suilven accorded visitors to the other cairns. Needless to say I guess we’ll never know what the intentions of the people who erected these monuments to their dead truly were? No. And how infuriating for us modern people who think we know everything to realise that... in actual fact.... it seems we don’t, after all.