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An article I read today in 'Outdoor Photographer' (one of the best Photo mags) had a single line that is a good candidate for the 'Golden Rule' of photography. I cant remember the exact wording but it went something like 'you are not photographing objects, you are capturing light'. By planting this firmly in your mind you will learn one of the most important differences between a snap and a picture. Most ancient monuments are great subjects for photography and the best advice you can get is to let the monuments look after themselves, the photographers job is to make sure the other ingredients of a good photo are there and shown to their best advantage in the resulting picture.

When I started taking photographs as a hobby first I assumed going to spectacular places and photographing spectacular objects/animals/events would make spectacular photographs. This is really only the starting point, once a photographer gets to a spectacular subject and decide what angle or view will show it to its best advantage he/she puts the subject to the back of the mind for a while and concentrates on the other even more essential ingredients, the quality of light, reducing the complexity of the background or selecting a background that better complements the subject and the mood which comes from the weather.

Quality of light possibly has the greatest input into the feel of the photograph. Going back to the 'Golden Rule' idea, what you are really capturing is the light reflected off your subject, a photographers greatest concern is the quality of that light. The low, warm sun in the hours after sunrise or before sunset is ideal and the lower contrast makes for great colour photos. During the harsh mid-day sun it is much harder to capture mood in colour but in B&W the strong contrast picks out the shapes and textures which can be ideal for infra-red or straight B&W.

One of the greatest differences between a holiday snapper and a landscape/portrait photographer is the huge importance the photographer places on background. As mentioned earlier, the subject is usually worthy enough of a photograph so the photographer instead concentrates on the background, this can make the subtle but crucial difference between the snap and the 'work of art'. Leaving the subject to look after itself, scan the rest of the scene in the viewfinder, are there distractions that can be removed by moving a foot or two? Is the subject isolated against a pleasing background or hidden in the clutter? 'Keep it simple' is the golden rule and always strive to reduce the complexity of the scene. This can be done in lots of ways, by isolating the subject against the sky or by blurring the background with a small aperture in camera or blurring in Photoshop later etc. etc. Not all ancient monuments have beautiful backdrops, for the rest it pays to spend some time thinking about things in the corner of your eye.

The weather usually controls the mood of the photograph, clear blue skies make nice postcards but are usually devoid of any mood. Approaching bad weather and low, billowing cloud add plenty of mood and the very brief moments when the sun breaks through brings untold joy to the patient and usually soaking photographer! In emergency cases the sun can be substituted with a crafty dab of flash.

Once these basics have been considered, then you can worry about composition. For me anyway, mood is far more important. I dont over analyse about composition though from studying art as a kid I think I just go along with what feels right without resorting to charts on leading lines, zig-zags and repeating patterns. These are useful though a 'normal' landscape photographer can wander for as long as they want until the elements of good composition fall into place around them, we are stuck with the surroundings chosen thousands of years ago when hedges and houses were few and far between and todays countryside can be just plain bland at times.

With that said, a little thought on a few starting pointers improves things dramatically.
Rule No.1 in composition is never place the subject in the dead centre. while normally true there are exceptions when the subject looks particularly good or nothing else in the frame justifies placing it anywhere else.
Rule No.2 is never divide the frame in two with the horizon, one worth considering for every photo but there are occasions where it cannot or should not be avoided and its best to go with what feels right.
Rule No. 3 is divide the frame into three columns and three rows and place important elements either along the lines or at intersections. This is the famous 'rule of thirds' and while over-used it is still extremely effective without you appearing a 'clever dick'.

Not really a rule but valuable nonetheless is the addition of foreground interest. Keep an eye out for an interesting rock, colourful clump of flowers or aging tree to give your photos an extra dimension on top of subject and background. This can be critical with wide angle lenses, but again you sometimes just have to make the most of what elements are in front of you.

...or as quick as precious time allows.

Add your own comments/tips!

Excellent topic, Ken!

I've been hoping that you would share your expert knoweledge with us, but have always been too emmbarrassed to ask.

Thanks.

It was quite gratifying to discover that I already knew all that! I actually learned it all through experience and simply observing what makes a good photograph. I wasn't even aware that the "not centering the horizon" thing was a formal rule, but it's something I found myself avoiding without even realising it (especially when going wide).

Excellent advice all round though - especially the stuff about light. Light really is the essence of a photograph. I don't even bother turning the camera on if the light's wrong. As soon as there's promise of decent illumination, I'm out of the house like a shot every time. I think this is the most often overlooked aspect of photography, with many people mistakenly assuming that if you point a camera at something pretty it will automatically make a good compostion.

Nice one! All sounds good to me (tho I don't often get it right!!!)

To my shame, I've really only consciously started trying to use the light properly fairly recently....

I think 2 things have helped me realise that that was what was wrong with a lot of my shots.

One is using digital - being able to view the pic immediately. And the other is Jane & her paintings!

All those wasted films!!! ;^)

love

Moth

Rule no. 4

Use a neutral grad filter. Sky and ground are often two greatly contrasted subjects and no film or sensor to my knowledge can be exposed correctly for both at once.

In Photoshop I use quick mask/select/feather and then levels or curves to remedy this. Sometimes quite succesfully if you exposed somwhere between the two ideals. But one day I'll be able to buy a grad filter and huazzah!

One of my biggest beefs is litter: trash. It's astounding how even a relatively tiny cigarette butt will stand out like a sore thumb in a finished photo. Poor Loie had to hang around watching me scour the ground before a shot too often, I'm sure.

Well, and wires, but you can't take down wires the way you can pick up litter.

Low light and night time photography can be a bit tricky unless your familiar with a few basics about photography in general and the differences between normal day time photography and night.

The bad news is that your only likely to get great results by using manual mode on the camera where you set the shutter speed and aperture yourself. The good news is that night photography is much more forgiving than daytime when it comes to exposure, a fraction of a second makes a big difference to exposure during the day but at night you can err on either side by anything upwards of three or four seconds without spoiling the shot. I try and use a constant aperture of F5.6 and work the shutter speed around that.

If your using a secondary source of light, a flash or torch, the impact this light source has is generally controlled by the aperture first, the exposure of sky and landscape beyond is controlled by shutter speed. By setting the aperture at 5.6 I know pretty much automatically how much flash I need to use to get the high contrast I want without large bleached out white bits. This comes with a bit of experimenting and error.

The shutter speed then is dependent on whether there's a full moon, clouds or street lights. On a very dark night with no moon or street lights your looking at an exposure of 3-4 minutes as a starting point, the same amount of flash is used irrespective of the length of exposure. For the hour after sunset, shutter speed is usually between 30 seconds to one minute @ ISO 100.

There are a few other issues you need to be aware of when taking photos at night, firstly the extent of star trails depends on the focal length of the lens and the exposure time. The wider the lens, the longer the exposure time you can get away with with no star trails, if your using a long zoom lens then your exposure time has to be much shorter before trails appear. Because of this, a super wide angle like my Nikkor 12-24mm or Tamron 11-18mm is perfect for shots of star filled skies with the landscape below, you can get away with much longer times because of the short focal length, giving nice pinpoint stars. There are complicated formuls for predicting the exact length of star trails for a given focal length and exposure time but at wide angles, you can generally get away with 30-40 seconds with small star trails.

One pitfall that is easy to fall into is night photos coming out like underexposed, desturated daytime pictures, especially under a full moon. Film photographers generally used tungsten balanced film to preserve the blue glow of night and you can simulate this with a digicam by selecting tungsten white balance (though most cameras still turn out overly blue photos). You may need to tweak this a bit later.

The reason for the above is nothing to do with the camera or the film, its our eyes. Our retina is made up of two different type of 'sensors', rods and cones. You have a lot more rods than cones and they are much more sensitive to light, unfortunately they only really come into play in the dark and they dont 'see' in colour, only shades of grey. What that means for a photographer is that the photos come out much more colourful than you would remember, nightime really is that colourful, we just cant see it with the naked eye. You can desturate if you want in photoshop, I generally tone down more now than I used too because people assumed I had pumped up the colour in photoshop, not knowing there eyes naturally tone down the colour at night! How ironic that these are sometimes derided as faked/false!

With digital cameras you can now up the ISO (sensitivity) of the sensor on demand and lots of people crank this all the way up for night photography. If you are using a tripod already (and you should be!) then there is no reason to turn the ISO up, keep it down as low as possible and definitely no higher than 400. Only go this high if you are doing so to avoid star trails by using a shorter shutter speed than you normally would (or your using a penlight to illuminate the stones!). Turning up the ISO gives nasty grain and amp noise, amp noise is produced as the sensor heats up during its longer period charged up over long exposures. It shows up as bright ("hot") pixels where there should be none (can lead to whole new 'constellations' being discovered when you get home!) and also as purplish/greenish blooming around the edges of the frame. Some cameras have a 'dark frame subtraction' noise reducing mode for long exposures, if you have it you might as well use it. The downside is that the camera takes a second picture after your exposure is finished, only this time with the shutter closed so it can pick out which pixels are overheating and cancel this out. These second exposures can take as long as the first exposure so for a three minute exposure you could be waiting 6 minutes before you get to see the result, by which time the moon has moved changing your composition....

The best time to photograph the moon and include the landscape is when it rises shortly before or after sunset and is almost, but not exactly, full. At this time you can get some detail in the moon and still have some blue on the sky, when the moon is just less than full you also get some shadow (and hence a touch of depth) which makes it look more realistic. If you want a large moon above a specific landmark then you will need to move a long way back from the subject and use the longest lens you have and try to frame it while the moon is still low. Can be difficult, but not impossible and makes a great picture!

Dont forget to pack extra batteries for your hand torch in case you use them all up lighting up the stones like I did once or twice! Wear one layer more than you think you need, standing still for a long time makes the cold bite a lot harder, bring a good set of gloves as well because cameras are next to impossible to operate with frozen fingers and dont forget some treats and a flask!

Happy snapping!