Newtyle Two Poster (AKA Dunkeld Standing Stones)
Tuesday 2/4/02
I thought these two stones would have been more difficult to see- I expected them to be hidden behind a wall, or obscured by trees, but are easily spied as we whizzed past them on the way to Dunkeld- to be paid a visit on the way back- so I made mental notes of where on earth to park whilst exploring this site. There’s a small entrance to the now disused Newtyle quarry which we reversed into. It was a bright Spring evening, the sun shining through the still leafless trees These two massive blocks are aligned NNW/SSE. Their northernmost faces are covered in a thick mat of moss, whilst the faces currently bathed in sunlight and shining and clean. What is really surprising is how sharp and the angles and edges of these great stones are- as if recently quarried (well- apart from their blankets of moss). The north stone is just over 2 m high, whilst it’s partner (which stands about 3 m or so to the south) is around 1.5 m tall. Both of the tops of the stones are angled at approximately 45 degrees south to north. These paired stones, or two-posters, are one of at least four that I know of in this area. To the south are the NE/SW aligned Staredam Stones, to the NW are the Clachan More (although re-writing this from my scrawled field note-book I was blissfully unaware of their fate) and to the NE are the Balnabroich Stones.
Martin
Bandirran East Stone Circle
Saturday 6/4/02
This is gorgeous. This is absolutely gorgeous. I’m sitting facing the sun which is filtering through the trees. I’m being bathed by the suns rays slanting through the branches high above me with my back against this gargantuan monolith at the centre of this circle. All around me are wood pigeons, songbirds, a few grouse and a light, light breeze. There are groups on insects hanging in the beams of the sunlight- its rays also lighting up the moss covering of another huge stone in front of me- it’s now recumbent and must be over 2.6 m long. I’m almost lost for words here- I’m blinded by the sun, watching the odd car go past on the nearby road I can make out through the trees- can hear someone shooting nearby- but me- I’m mesmerized. I can count 7 stones (including the recumbent) around the central monolith and a small boulder to the SSE. Fucking hell- I was about to check the alignment of the great face of the central stone when my compass reversed polarity. Jeez- the shivers are running up my spine and my head has flipped- I fell very woozy. This is getting silly- it’s done it again. My head is being beautifully fucked by this monolith in the centre of this circle. I’ve moved away from the stone, walked around a bit- it’s finally settled down. The face is aligned WSW.
Bandirran West (AKA Woodburn Cottage) Stone Circle
Saturday 6/4/02
It’s a glorious Spring day- not a cloud hangs in the sky and the sun still beat down. It’s Saturday tea-time and I’m at the edge of a wood in the shadow of Dunsinane Hill. Standing at the edge of this stone circle. Watching the trees. Watching the sun. There are at least 10 stones in this circle- only 2 now remain upright and strangely enough they are at the SW of the circle. Judging from the other recumbent stones, it looks like they’ve been graded towards these two. The two uprights are both around 1.5 m high. The whole circle is surrounded by a small bank about 30 m in diameter, but closer inspection reveals the remains of a very old dry stane dyke which has accumulated moss and plant growth over the years. The woods here are sparse and old giving this site an air of great antiquity- the stones being covered in a thick blanket of moss. Burl makes mention of a possible centre stone to this circle, but I couldn’t see one- not made easy by the fact that there is an uprooted tree in the centre of the stones.
Corstorphine Hill Cup Marked Rock
Friday 4/1/02
It’s a glorious Winters morning as me, Aed and H-dog head up Corstorphine Hill for our mornings walk and in search of this cup marked rock. Due to the large boulders and tree roots the path’s a bit bumpy for Aed’s off-road buggy, but we all manage to get up to the main path along the crest of the Hill. I’m trying to use the OS map and a Corstorphine Hill map to find this site, but there are so many paths heading off through the trees- we head in the general direction of south and hope for the best. The other problem is that there are so many rock outcrops and glacial pavements up here. Thankfully, there are a couple of buildings on the west side of the Hill and working out their position realised that we’ve actually gone past the site. Using instinct and following H-dog we head back along a lower path and through the gorse bushes a huge stone pavement area opens up before us, covered in snow, ice and frost. We slowly make our way across this and I almost walk straight over the top of the cup marks! The rock they are on has been cleared of frost n snow, and the markings are fairly shallow, but small amounts of snow remain in the depressions picking out a pattern of 10 cup marks almost forming a circle with 8 markings on the diameter and 2 in the middle. The views from here are inspiring indeed and especially on a bright and bitterly cold day such as today. From the Pentlands to the left right round to the hills of Fife in the distance, just able to make them out through the frosty air. These cup marks were only rediscovered in 1991 and I would be very surprised if these are the only sacred markings on this hill- we passed literally hundreds of rock outcrops on the way up here, many of which are almost now covered in vegetation.
Hawthornden Cliff Carvings (AKA Gorton House)
Monday 24/12/01
‘Inaccessible rock ledge…situated in a precipitous cliff.‘
I managed to scramble down the banking to the rivers edge opposite these cliffs as an OS report from 1954 said these carvings could clearly be seen from the opposite banking- however, this report is contradicted by a more recent one from 1975 saying that the site could no longer be located. I stood and stared for an age at the massive cliffs over the river from me scanning their couple-of-hundred-foot towering mass up and down and from left to right. I peered intently at the large vertical slabs where I would have expected something to have been, but nothing. There was, however, many areas covered by vegetation and I was about to admit defeat and say that this site has now been covered by plants when, just through the trees I saw it- a single spiral. It was on a rock face in a small recess about 30 or 40 foot up the cliffs above the river. That was it- I simply had to see them and touch them. Unfortunately the carvings were across the other side of the river and straight up a very steep and muddy banking and cliff face. There was only one thing to do and I did not think twice- I was entranced by the sight of that single spiral. I grabbed a huge stick from the banking and waded into the river, the cold water filling my boots immediately and freezing my feet. Actually, it wasn’t that cold considering it was the end of December- I’ve been in colder water (like surfing in the North Sea in April- brrr!). As it turned out (luckily) the River North Esk was only about knee deep. That was the least of my problems. I still had to get up about 30 or 40 foot of mud, cliff and trees. I tried working out a route, but had to return to my original crossing point as I came across a vertical rock wall with no holds. I started off up the mud and used the trees to swing horizontally above the river on my way up n up n up! I slid, I climbed and I scrambled and I bloody well made it- hahahahahahaha! And I was completely blown away. I expected a couple of carvings, including my enchanting spiral, but not the sight that greeted me. The overhanging vegetation, the red rock cliffs and these carvings- for all intents it looked like a forgotten Australian aboriginal sacred rock. Except here I was at this sacred and once lost Scottish aboriginal site. There were spirals, triangles, double S shaped spirals, notches and these circles all over- just plain circles. Not only these but an amazing fish type symbol- it looked like a horizontal Einsturzende Neubauten symbol. I’ve seen a fair amount of rock carvings on my travels, but this place, no- something very different about this place- it felt more primitive. The only similar spiral I’ve ever seen was at the Templewood circle. I was shaking- partly from exhilaration as I had just waded a river and climbed up here (and I’m not that keen on heights) but mostly I was extremely energised- I had made it here and it felt as though I was the first person to see these symbols for many, many years. I fired off about ten pics, but I was shaking so much I doubt if any of them will actually turn out okay. I eventually scrambled and slid back down to the river almost coming a cropper on a couple of occasions. I waded back across the river and back up to the main path. I was totally soaked, freezing and covered in mud. But most of all I was completely bedazzled. This precipice, high above the River North Esk is an extremely powerful, sacred and magickal site, made even more so due to its inaccessible and hidden nature. This site crackles and buzzes with energy.
Directions
Firstly- this site is *extremely* difficult to find and reach. Sometimes I turn into a complete idiot with no sense of fear, especially when it comes to exploring places like these (although I always retain my sense of respect). I could easily have been swept away in the river, fallen from the cliff (almost did) etc. Just cos I write about this site doesn’t mean I’m recommending an actual visit. Follow the A701 south out of Edinburgh. Pass Ikea on the right and head through Bilston. At the roundabout in Bilston take a left through Roslin. Go down the main street which turns sharp right and look out for the Roslin Glen signs before the main road turns right again. Down this steep road and park in the designated car park at approximately NT272628. Take the path across the river, under the castle drawbridge (see Roslin Glen Folklore) and follow it northeast along by the river. Paths lead off uphill, but stick by the river- pass Lovers Leap on the way along the path (see Roslin Glen Fish Carving). Continue along the path next to the cliffs above the river. The path descends down to the level of the river and in places is carved from the cliffs and takes the traveller along the river bed- it’s obviously only passable during periods of low rain/snow fall. Keep an eye out for Wallace’s Cave high above the river on the opposite side- the carvings are approximately 30 metres further round from the cave (north) and about 8 metres below it. Best to view from the other banking in the Winter with a pair of binoculars!
Roslin Glen Fish Carving
Monday 24/12/01
I left Kat and Aed following a path along the top of the glen as it was a rather steep descent to get to this rock. I actually remember being here about nine years ago- but never knew about this Iron Age carving. I knew about this carving that looks kinda like a face- is this it? Lovers Leap rock is a large horizontal slab perched precariously above the River North Esk and is literally covered in carvings- all of which, unfortunately, seem to be very much more recent. Nevertheless, I scoured the top and sides of this rock in search of the fish, but nothing- still the only carving that looks like it could be Iron Age is the face-like carving. I crouched beside it and looked for a while- I guess it actually does look like a fish face on! Rather cool little piece of rock art anyways.
Directions
Follow the A701 south out of Edinburgh. Pass Ikea on the right and head through Bilston. At the roundabout in Bilston take a left through Roslin. Go down the main street which turns sharp right and look out for the Roslin Glen signs before the main road turns right again. Down this steep road and park in the designated car park at approximately NT272628. Take the path across the river, under the castle drawbridge and follow it northeast along by the river. Paths lead off uphill, but stick by the river- Lovers Leap is the only really large horizontal rock slab down here. It’s down the cliff from General Monck’s Battery- a large square remain by the top path. The carving is down next to the path on the vertical rock.
Monday 24/12/01
We stopped off here on our way home from Roslin Glen. This is about the third time I’ve visited this stone- now it has a small black iron railing surrounding it which completely destroys any atmosphere or decent photo! What on earth possessed them to do this? Is it to protect the Christians on their way to church??!!! The stone is slowly getting covered in a thick layer of moss- although there’s meant to be about 26 cup marks on it I could only count about 20 -odd. I think five or six are also ring marked, although it’s difficult to say due to the moss. Saying all that, practically the whole surface is covered in symbols. Here stands this small stone, surrounded by an iron fence, next to the church standing above it and yet, nestled at the base of the church tower, this stone has more symbolism, power and spirituality than the building it sits beside.
The Buck Stane
Friday 21/12/01
…and I thought we’d never see the sun this Solstice day. It was lashing down this morning and the prospect of an afternoon trip up here looked very wet! But as I write I’m being dazzled by the Solstice sun that is hanging just above the silhouette of the Pentland Hills, and the SW face of the Bore Stane watches the sunset. This stone sits in a beautiful little niche just off the very busy Braid Hills Road. A fine cobbled path, plaque set in the wall above the stone and flowerbeds either side. It originally stood further up the hill, but was moved here some time in the 20th century. As with most of these re-positionings, I am in hope that the alignments remained the same. The stone is about 3.5 foot tall and almost square in section. It has a very deep (non-megalithic) cup hole on the very top. Originally this stone would have been in view of the Braid Hills and its cup marked rocks, but the finest view would have been (and still is) to the mighty Pentlands. I leave this stone warm, happy and with the sun still dazzling in my eyes- Happy Solstice!
Cat Stane, Inch (AKA Kingsinch School)
Thursday 20/12/01
I think this is the only site I’ve visited where I had to make arrangements to visit days in advance- but with good cause as it now stands in the grounds of a school. I was greeted by a very nice and enthusiastic teacher by the name of Mrs. Stewart. She had some great theories about this stone- alignments with both nearby stones and Arthurs Seat, grave marker, route marker, etc. This stone is one of the thinnest I’ve seen, certainly in the Lothians- only about 7” in places. Adam McLean (’Standing Stones of the Lothians’) describes it as only being about two foot high, but it’s actually around 4.5 to 5 foot. It may originally have stood at the junction of Dalkeith and Liberton Roads, although Mrs. Stewart reckons its original site may not have been far from where it now stands. Where it does stand now commands a great view of Arthurs Seat- its broadest face looking upon the great hill. I asked about a plaque that was meant to be here, but this has long since disappeared. This stone has obviously been used as a gatepost on many occasions- there are still lead and iron lumps all over the northernmost face. Afterwards we exchanged details and I was introduced to the headmistress- all v. friendly and enthusiastic folk- nice end to a great day discovering these little known stones of South Edinburgh.
Note- this stone stands within locked school grounds. You *must* make prior arrangements if you wish to visit. The headmistress said that although entry is free, all donations to school funds gratefully received!
Ravenswood Avenue Standing Stone
Thursday 20/12/01
Almost at the end of this street it stands- almost 7 foot tall, but surrounded by a circular iron fence and stuck in a cul-de-sac. On the way along here I thought I was in for a mauling as there were two massive Alsatians roaming loose, but luckily they found a bin bag and tore that to shreds instead of me! Before these houses were built this stone would have had clear views to both Arthurs Seat and the Pentlands, but now you just catch glimpses of them through gaps in between the houses. This stone has also been moved, but I’m hopeful in thinking that its alignment remained the same- it’s almost square in plan and the northernmost face looks towards Arthurs Seat. A cracking great stone, but all the atmosphere of the site is ruined by the fence and the housing scheme- at least it’s still here I s’pose.
Directions
Take the 3/3A or 29 bus from Princes Street heading south. Pass Cameron Toll and take the bus up Gilmerton Road. Get off just past Walter Scott Avenue which is on the left. Ravenswood Avenue is the first right off here.
Niddrie House Standing Stone
Thursday 20/12/01
Ha! Found it! I had two sets of map co-ordinates for this stone and as it happens, both of them were wrong. One set from the RCAHMS site (from the OS originally) is actually north of here, the other set from Adam McLeans ‘Standing Stones of the Lothians’ is east of this spot. The hand of fate had a say in me finding this stone- I missed my bus stop- I was originally going to check out the OS co-ordinate area to the north of here. However, I stayed on the bus and as it turned left into its terminus I caught a glimpse of the Niddrie House Standing Stone! As it turns out, the description in the ‘Standing Stones of the Lothians’ was not bad, but the stone is now no longer in the burial ground. Within sight of Arthurs Seat and in the shadow of a yew tree, it sits next to the pavement just behind a utilities hut. It’s almost been overgrown by ivy and brambles which is no bad thing as the conspicuous stones in the graveyard have almost all been smashed and/or covered in paint. The stone itself is about 4 foot tall, about the same wide but only about 1 and a half foot thick- it appears to be aligned approximately N/S. It’s really weathered and has great grooves running down it. Yes- there are cup marks on it (it’s a conglomerate stone) but at the bottom right of the stone there are about five cup marks which look classically megalithic to me. So- here it hides in a corner of Niddire, slowly disappearing under vegetation, dog shit and litter. But, as I said, it’s mebbe for the best that it blends in to its surroundings.
The OS-nil, TKnow-one!
Directions
Take the number 21 bus from Princes Street heading south towards Craigmillar and Niddrie. Get off at the terminus after it turns off left from Greendykes Road into Niddrie House Avenue. The stone is just off the pavement next to the fenced-off burial ground to the left of the school. It sits behind some sort of utilities buildings (electricity?).
The Bore Stane
Thursday 20/12/01
I’m sure there was snow blowing through whilst writing down the details of the plaque- I had to take my gloves off to write which was a bad idea- they’ve just started to get feeling back in them now. This is another curious Edinburgh site- whether or not this stone was ever meant to be upright, we’ll never know for sure. It was found in a nearby field, but not noted whether it was recumbent or vertical. It is, however, thought to be a cist cover. It now stands next to a church that is now part of Napier University- it’s high up on the edge of a wall overlooking Morningside Road. It must be easily missed by the thousands of folk who pass this spot every day. I used to say down these parts and have stopped for a wee look a few times. This stone is a great deep red and has some very deep cup-like markings over it- but these are thought to be natural.
Odin’s Hall Broch (AKA Edinshall, Woden or Wooden)
November 1996
One of the main reasons for this trip was to convert the castle-buffs Jam n Sam to brochs- and I think it worked! We also came here cos it’s one of the nearest brochs to Edinburgh and one of the best preserved in southern Scotland. The drive down here is amazing- passing through the megalithic wonderland of Whiteadder. We, of course, got lost- I was driving so that’s not great surprise! We stopped to ask which was the quickest way to the site as we knew we weren’t that far off. The local said ‘oh- you mean the brocchhhhkkkkkkcckkkhh’- yeh- one n the same asshole. Excuse me for being Lowland Scots. We parked the car and headed across the fields along a fabby path by the Whiteadder Water. This is a complex site comprising of the broch itself as well as a fort and settlements that surround the broch. The walls of this one don’t quite match the dizzying heights of those in the northwest, but they still stand about 2 metres high. Saying that, this broch is much larger (at about 17 metres in diameter) than its northern counterparts. The wall is mega thick (5.2 metres) as with all of these places. We stopped to have (a very cold) lunch here and feasted on macaroni cheese pies- class! Jam was hyper that day and we all went a bit mad hiding in the guard cells, jumping off the walls and generally running about like a bunch of loonies! A great day was had by all and two more folk won over by these places.
Note- all maps, books etc refer to this site as Edin’s Hall, but it is assumed that all alternative names are derived from Odin.
Dun Troddan Broch
17/7/94
…and just a mile or so along the road another spectacular broch- these are just fab! The wall height on this one is just a bit smaller than Dun Telve, but the walls are mega thick again. These are magnificent monuments and a great start to our hols.
Dun Telve Broch
17/7/94
A fantastic summers day and what better way to spend it than exploring brochs?! The road across here from Shiel Bridge, the Mam Ratagan Pass, was terrifying, but the views back down and across the Five Sisters were breathtaking. This is the first broch we came across with Dun Troddan just further along the road. This broch is still about 10 m high which is testament to those who built the place, but I guess having walls 4 m thick helps. Up the inner walls are the remains of what looks like two ledges- probably the upstairs!
Dun Carloway Broch
23/7/94
A spectacular setting! This broch is perched high above Loch an Duin with views over to the sea to Bernera. One of the best preserved brochs in the Western Isles the back wall stills stands about 10 m high with a wall almost 4 m thick! There’s a guard cell by the door and there’s some neat steps up inside the wall from this cell. An inspiring view and great place to stop on the road to Callanish.
Steinacleit (AKA Lower Siadar) Stone Circle and Cairn
22/7/94
From our great wee campsite at Siabost, we headed north east today up the A857 on our way to the Butt of Lewis, stopping of first at the massive Clach an Trushal, then this site. This is a very complex place- there are only about 5 upright stones, but loads of others and the remains of a (supposedly) chambered cairn in the centre of the circle. I dunno- it’s a rather sad and disappointing place- I was mebbe hoping for a more grand stone circle- now it just looks very messy.
Fortingall Churchyard Cup Marked Standing Stone
First visited this stone in 1982 after reading about it in a small guidebook to the church. My obsession with the nearby Fortingall stones brought me here on many occasions, but this stone seems to be forgotten about when mention is made of the Fortingall sites. I know this is sacrilege, but to all intents and purposes it looks like some sort of megalithic bird bath ;) This (along with two of the stones of the nearby Carse Farm I four-poster) is one of the few stones which I have seen that has cup markings on its flat-ish horizontal upper face. This got me thinking about sky maps. The stone is behind the famous yew tree in the corner of the Currie private burial ground. When visiting check out the yew tree, the Fortingall stones and the church with its ancient bells and Celtic carved stones- a veritable antiquarian feast!
Carse Farm I Four Poster (AKA Dull)
Sometime in 1981...
This site (along with Croftmoraig and Fortingall) was one of the first circles I ever visited and one of the first places that really got me started on this megalithic journey that I am still on almost 19 years later. My folks bought a caravan near here back in 81 and I must have passed this site loads of times on journeys around Perthshire. I clearly remember my face pressed to the car window watching the four stones whiz past each time we drove along the B846. I managed to get my (tolerant) folks to stop off here a couple of times (bad mistake- I then got them to drive me to Fortingall, Croftmoraig, Lundin, Dunfallandy etc etc!) so I could get in amongst the stones. The site is small, squat and compact- still one of my favourite four posters. One of the strange things about it is the cup markings on the two eastern-most stones- they are on the flat horizontal surface facing the sky above (also check out Fortingall Churchyard standing stone). These two sites were also the first to trigger something in my mind and start an obsession with cup and ring marks and their magick and meanings.
Fingal’s Stone (AKA Final’s Grave)
July 1995
This stone is to be found in the field just behind the school house in Killin. This small stone (less than 1 m high) looks like it has been pieced together from about three different stones! It’s a small triangular block and you can clearly see a join near the top where apparently a smaller stone was fixed to it- was it just too small originally?!
Glencorse Cup and Ring Marked Stone
Visited twice- first time in winter 1993. This red sandstone slab lies next to the church tower of Glencorse Parish Church. The boulder has about 26 cupmarks, 10 of which are cup and ring.
Directions
Take the A702 Biggar road south out of Edinburgh and pass both Boghall and Easet Howgate farms. Take the next road left just about opposite the track up to Castlelaw souterrain. Follow the winding (and steep) road down towards Milton Bridge, the church being round the corner at Milton Bank before the road joins the A701.
Crichton Mains Souterrain
Winter 1990
I first found out about this place after one of my mates had sold his camper van to a guy who was into battle re-enactments and who had a local historical knowledge. So- on one of our mad Sunday afternoon outings we all piled out here. We knew it was in a field somewhere east of Crichton village and under some pylons. Luckily, the time of the year we visited the field was kinda bare and the big grassy clump gave the spot away. We strode out across the field with much gusto and determination completely oblivious to actually owned it! The entrance is really small and low- but the chamber itself is about 15 m long in the form of an arc with the ceiling about 2 m high. This structure has a great number of Roman dressed blocks that were used in its constriction and one of the ceiling lintels still has a rough Pegasus carved on it (the emblem of Legio II Augusta). It’s though that the material possibly came from an adjacent military Roman road-post. Anyways- we all piled into the structure and were sitting in the quiet darkness soaking up the atmosphere when all of a sudden a thunderstorm broke overhead. We all took one look at each other and clambered out as fast as possible- I’ve never since seen half a dozen grown men move so fast!
PS- be sure to visit Crichton Castle at NT380612- a cracker!
Directions
From Edinburgh head south-east to Dalkeith. Take the A68 out of Dalkeith to Pathhead, then the B6367 on the right. Go through Crichton (blink and you’ll miss it!) and take the next road left. The souterrain is in the field on the right past the small woods and under the pylons. Be sure and ask permission at one of the farms-not sure which- woops!
Castlelaw Souterrain, fort and settlement
I’ve visited this site on about 6 or 7 occasions at various times of the year- from glorious summers days spent in the Pentland Hills to sheet ice and waist deep snow. I first visited this souterrain when I was still at school, catching a bus to Hillend and walking the rest of the way- it was another I was inspired to see after reading a description in ‘Scotland Before History’ by Stuart Piggot. The roof has been re-built with the not-so-nice concrete and thick glass tiles finish. The roof was thought to originally have been constructed partly from timber, which is kinda unusual for a souterrain. The main chamber is really quite big- over 20 m long and about 2 m high- being able to walk inside a souterrain as opposed to crawling or stooping- a rare treat! Halfway along the main passage is another small chamber big enough to crawl into and stand in. Finds here have included Roman glass and iron as well as a bronze buckle with Celtic ornamentation and the site has been dated to approx 2 CE.
Directions
Take the A702 Biggar road south out of Edinburgh as it hugs the countours of the Pentlands. Pass Boghall and Easter Howgate farms, the track to the site is just after the latter on the right hand side of the road. Follow the track uphill- there’s parking at the top.
Wright’s Houses (AKA Borthwick Mains) Standing Stone
Sunday 9/12/01 3:30pm
On an amazing and glorious Winters afternoon myself and Fiona set off from the nearby town of Gorebridge in search of this stone. We parked at the crossroads just past Wright’s Houses and set off along the road looking for the stone. We walked for a fair bit before I checked the map and realised that we must have gone right past it! We retraced our steps, climbing up the embankment at the roadside to check the field for any signs of megaliths. Then, tucked away and nestled in the prickly hedge we found it! The top of the stone looks like it has some deep hollows on it, but hard to tell due to the thick blanket of moss and the thorns in the hedge stopping me getting a closer look ;) I stood and looked round n round at the land- this site is near the souterrain at Crichton, but not within visibility of each other. Then Fiona pointed out the setting sun- ha- this wee stone was facing the sun going down in a ridge between the distant hills- lovely! We watched the sun dip down out of view, then chatted to a woman on horseback who’d just come along the country road. She passed this site regularly and thought it was maybe a mile stone and was pleasantly surprised to hear it was rather a bit older. On the way back to Gorebridge we stopped at the side of the road to admire the most fantastic view of the Pentlands and all of Edinburgh laid out before us in splendid Winter light.
Cairnpapple
Wednesday 21/11/01
The Mother Henge. She watches over all- and what a view. I climb down inside the chamber and sit down, whilst outside, the wind howls and the sun sets. I plug in and listen to ‘Odin’ and for the first time all day I feel warm throughout sitting on the edge of the north grave. I emerge back into the wind and a beautiful sky with a half moon hanging over the Pentland Hills to the south. I walk round and round the grass covered dome looking at the sunset, the moon, the Pentlands, Edinburgh, Fife- it’s all just a bit overwhelming. I liked the piece in the guide book which says that it’s no coincidence that the radio mast is sited here because of the reception area it serves- the same reception area that Carinpapple has been serving for 5500 years. I go back to the small Historic Scotland hut and chat for ages to the manny (whose name I did not catch)- we talk about theories re henges, cup and ring marks, souterrains, landscapes, the Modern Antiquarian, Ancient Lothian. But, alas, it’s 4:30 pm and time to close for the night. The sun has set, the moon is high above me and I leave Cairnpapple totally enchanted.
Galabraes Standing Stones
Wednesday 21/11/01
An evocative pair of stones situated on a ridge in the shadow of Cairnpapple. The westernmost stone is now a stump just over a foot high- destroyed in 1921 apparently. The remaining monolith has the most distinct difference in worked and rough faces I think I’ve ever seen, and one of the sharpest on angles running the length of the stone. The smooth surface of course faces up the hill towards Cairnpapple, whilst the sharp edge points in an easterly direction. At last, after a day of relentless wind and rain, the huge sky is finally clearing, prompting me to go to Cairnpapple to watch the sun set.
Directions
From Edinburgh take the M8 west heading for Glasgow. Come off at junction 3 at Livingston. Head right on the A899 towards Dechmont. A89 towards Bathgate and head off right towards Bangour. Follow this road passing the sign for Cairpapple. Just after the car park for the wildlife reserve is a farm track on the right- go here and ask permission. Back along the road and turn up towards Cairnpapple, the stones are in the field to the left.
Kaimes Hill Cairn, Fort and site of Cup and Ring Marked Rocks
Wednesday 21/11/01
With weather so atrocious, I had to write these notes back in the car. The rain was horizontal up there thanks to the howling gale. I struggled up a very muddy path on the back of Kaimes Hill. The powers that be quarried most of this monument and have now filled it. The huge fencing around what used to be the quarry has been ripped down and now there are ominous pipes and huge valves dotted all over the hill. These valves emit a stench so intense that I was actually gagging and swallowing back vomit on the way back down. Jeez- why are there no warning signs about this? On the old fence is a sign about contractors not being responsible and about parents warning kids about this place! I made it almost up to the site of the cup and ring marked rocks, but was met by a fence and an impenetrable jungle of vegetation. It’s difficult to say how much of the fort remains and I guess most of the cairn has been destroyed. My advice- stay away from this horrible place and just visit the neighbouring Dalmahoy Hill.
Dalmahoy Hill Fort and Cup Marked Rock
Wednesday 21/11/01
(see also Kaimes Hill notes)
I crossed the horrendous place that is now Kaimes Hill to make it here. I headed for the trig point on the summit and the wind almost blew me off my feet. I found the cup marked rock fairly easily, just north of the trig. There are 5 cups, all quite deep. The view was cool, but the weather was just so bad that I didn’t hang about long enough to appreciate it!
Tormain Hill Cup and Ring Marked Rocks
Wednesday 21/11/01
In a howling gale. On the way up here I stopped to check out some of the massive boulders and stones and slowly turned round to have a look at the most amazing view of Edinburgh- I laughed! In a perfect row stood Corstorphine Hill, Berwick Law, Arthurs Seat, Traprain Law and the Braids Hills. What an amazing ancient skyline! What a place- 360 degree views all around the Lothians, Fife and beyond. Away from the industrialisation, the motorways and the airport to this site. The rock markings are dotted on the outcrops of this wooded hill- I’ve never seen rock markings like these- the main cup and ring rock is a complete mind-fuck. Y’know, the first thing that came into my mind when I looked down upon it, then looked up at the skyline was ‘viewfinder’. Is this a landscape interpreter? A magickal symbol encompassing all the surrounding sacred sites? I’ve had to move down off the hill into the slightly more sheltered tress as it’s pissing down now and the flask of coffee is out as I’m so bloody cold! I think about the symbols above me with the wind roaring through the trees towering above me- I’ll have to check out my dates etc. The other main cup marked rock (and I could find 6 in total) has cups joined by channels and grooves- a cross with the grooves running off down the hill. one of the other smaller rocks has been brutalized by the OS many years ago- nice one. I leave this place with shivers running down my back and, no, it’s not because I’m cold.
Directions
From Sighthill in the west of Edinburgh, take the A71 west heading out past Heriot Watt University. At Linburn take a right (Bonnington Road) on the B7030. At Bonnington Mains farm take the road right. Just before Ratho look out for a line of trees on the right with a footpath sign. The rocks are just past a sign that says ‘footpath ends’ near the top of the hill.
Huly Hill (AKA Newbridge) and Lochend Stone (outlier)
Wednesday 21/11/01
The signpost at the entrance to here has all but worn away- if you stand at the correct angle you can still read some of it, but mostly it just says “Dode” in bright red spray paint. The path to the site is littered with pornography, McDonalds shit and an amazing amount of broken glass. This site has everything for the Urban Pagan- aircraft taking off almost overhead, stones aligning with the golden arches of McDonalds, building sites and beautiful industrial estates. And, amidst this all, the monument of Huly Hill. That this monument remains is an amazing testimony to the builders- how it laughs in the face of it all. Long after the McDonalds has crumbled to dust, when, no longer planes fly in the sky above here, Huly Hill will remain. The mound is about 30 m in diameter and three monoliths watch over it. The two westernmost stones have deliberately been aligned so their broadest sides point the antiquarians gaze eastwards- ‘look’, they say, ‘this is where we fit into this ancient landscape’. They point towards Arthurs Seat and Corstorphine Hill, the latter of which (only last week) I found out has cup markings on a rock outcrop which just blew my mind. The smallest monolith appears aligned with Arthurs Seat when viewed from the top of the mound and its streamlined shape points eastwards. Just over the massive motorway intersection is the Lochend Stone, a possible outlier to here, but now can’t be seen as it’s hidden in the ‘Bodycote Materials Testing’ building. And that’s where my travels take me next...
...and this place isn’t much better! Right next to the A8 with a couple of bird tables for company. All round is the ‘Bodycote’ building with its nice big windows so that all the folk inside can look out and think ‘what’s that idiot up to?!’ This is a massive monolith, far far bigger than the three around Huly Hill, but if it’s an outlier I guess size matters! Its broadest face points approximately E/W, moving my gaze again up to Corstorphine Hill.
Cammo Stone
Wednesday 14/11/01
It’s strange isn’t it? You spend years living in the same city and there are hidden gems you just never find unless something like an antiquarian quest leads you! Cammo Park is one of those gems. The road here branches off one of the main dual carriageways of west Edinburgh and immediately you could be in the country on the single track road. On the way here you pass a fantastic tower that wouldn’t look out of place in a faerie tale. I have very vague recollections of being at the tower years ago, but it could have been a dream- this is a very dream like landscape of darkened paths through woods, old walled gardens etc. I didn’t even know this standing stone existed until I bought the new Explorer map. It’s not mentioned in the ‘Standing Stones of the Lothians’ or other books I’ve read. It’s possible that it’s connected to the Newbridge complex and may be associated with the nearby Cat Stane which is now inaccessible as it stands just metres form the main runway at Edinburgh Airport. The small wood that this stone is in is very peaceful, the trees acting to block out most of the traffic noise. It fell warm here too and there’s sunlight filtering through the leaves just now. The stone is a biggy! It’s about 5 foot tall and about 4 foot wide. It’s fairly rounded unlike the Gogar Stone. On the west side is a dirty big rusty iron crook which, according to the guidebook, was probably put there in the 1800’s. Such a peaceful setting it’s easy to think I’m in the middle of nowhere. I went down to look at the small visitor centre and picked up a leaflet for the nearby Corstorphine Hill (which is visible from the Cammo Stone)- and in it there’s pics of cup marked rocks which were only rediscovered recently. One thing leads on to another, the journey continuesÉ
Directions;
Heading west out of Edinburgh towards the airport, take the A902 Maybury Road from either the A90 or A8. Take Craigs Road heading west and then immediately turn right onto Cammo Walk. Pass the Tower until reaching a small car park. The stone is up near the remains of the large estate house. There’s a small visitor centre which sells guidebooks etc.
Gogar Stone (AKA Easter Norton)
Wednesday 14/11/01
Well- here I am standing next to this stone in the middle of a cultivated field which feels a bit odd! I stopped off at Easter Norton farm and spoke to the very cheery and helpful folks there. The woman I spoke to said “aye- the stones just across the field- it’s meant to be in some sort of line with some other places around here”- indeedy- it’s been suggested this is a possible outlier of the Newbridge complex, however, I’m unsure whether this would have been visible from there as this stone lies not on the crest of this field, but down the hill a bit. Anyway- the farmer said it would be fine to walk across the field, but turns out it doesn’t belong to him! Fair enough- I’m here and that’s the main thing. Just to the south of this stone lies the M8, and the main Edinburgh/Glasgow railway, but it’s the Pentland Hills which dominate over all. The stone is quite small, only about 4 foot high. It’s almost square in plan with the sides aligned approximately NE/SW. The south face has a concave curved profile and the top is sloped- a beautiful and purposely shaped stone. My hands are now freezing up- methinks time for gloves, photos and contemplation trying to ignore the nearby farm machinery, motorway, railway and airport!
Directions;
Head west out of Edinburgh along the A8 Glasgow Road. To get a good view of the stone (instead of walking across cultivated fields!) take the second left after the Gyle roundabout towards Ratho (Freelands Road). Pass Gogar Stone house and take the first right. The stone stands in the field to the right about halfway between the junction and the railway bridge.
Hill of Drimmie (AKA Woodside)
October 1992
A bit of a collectors item this one- I had trouble distinguishing this stone circle from the ruined dry stane dyke that runs along the side of the forest, but the stones are just large enough to be separate from the wall. Burl has this place as a possible four poster, but difficult to say now that the wall runs right through the site.
Directions
From Blairgowrie and Rattray take the Drimme hill road at NO179463 north east-ish! Pass the Glenballoch stone circle and continue north, then northwest. The stone circle is in the Forestry Commission forest on the right of the road just about opposite the house on the left of the road before East Drimmie.
Glenballoch
October 1992
This stone circle is a curious one cos on the OS Pathfinder map this site is marked as two standing stones and marked in normal font, not the quaint olde antiquarian way! Burl has this site as well preserved and a four poster, but when I visited I would say it’s not one of the most obvious four posters I’ve been to. Indeed, it looks as if there is a ruined internal cairn and three large blocks of stone, but none of em are very upright. Just to the northeast of the circle there is a great standing stone (at approx NO185483) which is probably an outlier. You can make it out in the background just above the middle stone.
Directions
From Blairgowrie and Rattray take the Drimmie hill road at NO179463 north east-ish! Pass Bonnington farm on the left side of the road and continue til you get to the sawmill just down from Glenballoch cottage. The stone circle is in the field on the right just off the road.
Standingstone Farm, East Lothain
Friday 21/9/01 3:50pm
This is about plan C or D after a trip down to the Lammermuirs to check out some sites proved fruitless due to the continuing FMD restrictions. All the land, farm tracks, hill paths etc in this part of the land remain closed so I’ve compensated this disappointment by heading NW to the might of Traprain Law and the megaliths in its shadow. I was really hunting out Loths Stone, but have ended up here at the farm called Standingstone- no prizes for guessing where it gets its name from! I thought I’d better check the access around here and was directed to this amazing old farmhouse from a nearby cottage. The elderly woman owner was charm itself and invited me into her kitchen so we could have a look at the maps I had. She phoned round her neighbouring farms inquiring about access for me- turns out the public track up to Loths Stone still has sheep on it so the farmer would rather folk didn’t walk there just now. Anyway the woman gave me her number to phone at a later date to check out access and in the meantime was more than happy for me to have a look at the stone on the farm grounds. Back down the road from the main building and just behind a small cottage stands an orchard with this great monolith in the middle presiding over the trees. The orchard itself is waist high in stinging nettles and these buggers even managed to sting me through my combats! The stone’s over 2 metres high by about 60 cm thick and has been expertly shaped. The top of the stone slopes at about 45 degrees in a N to S direction and the whole monolith is covered in an amazing coat of khaki, yellow and white lichen. Even today after many years the stone still holds an almost perfect square cross section with sides almost in a N/S alignment (about 10 degrees) pointing towards Traprain Law. Time to head there and see if it’s open for business!
Directions
Take the A1 east from Edinburgh and head through Haddington on to East Linton. From here take the road south heading towards the might of Traprain Law. Pass Traprain and Sunnyside farms and pass the sign for the Law itself. Head straight on for a T junction and turn right passing Luggate farm. Traprain Law is on the right and at the SW base is a small group of cottages and farms. Standingstone is the last big building on the left of the road.
Traprain Law, East Lothian
Friday 21/9/01 4:35pm
This is East Lothians ‘Dunadd’- this hill dominates the East Lothian skyline as it rises out of the fertile farming plains all around. I can even see this mound from window in my work place in Edinburgh and it’s visible from many other points across the Capital and Mid Lothian. This must have been a great Mother of a central point for the megalith builders living around here- certainly- along its west base is a line of standing stones from Standingstone Farm, through Loths Stone, ending at another monolith just outside East Linton. The only other dominating feature of the land around here is the perfect cone of Berwick Law- another focal point for ancient civilisations. The climb up here is probably the most precarious I’ve done to any ancient site- my very limited climbing/scrambling skills certainly came in useful. I came up by the NE side of this ancient mound (not the easiest route I later found out!) which has been quarried in complete blinding disregard for this place. The presence of the quarry makes the climb up kinda scary and not for those like me trying to ignore the far-too-high drop to the right. This is the first time I’ve come up here though it’s been on my skyline all my life whenever I look towards the east. Driving here along the amazing country roads I rounded a small hill and it all of a sudden loomed over me filling the windscreen- ‘Fuck’ was my exact words! This place has been occupied/used from Neolithic, through Bronze (when it was used for burials), Iron ages up through Roman to about 5th century AD- jeez- that’s about 5000 years! It’s very size and position acts as a natural defence but there’s also man-made fortifications all around extending for over 100 m and up to 3.5 m thick. In more recent times this area has become the focus of paranormal/UFO research as the skies above my head have been filled with glowing orbs. Today it’s misty and I can’t even see as far as Edinburgh. There’s only one way back down from here and methinks it’s a sliding-down-on-yer-arse job!
Directions
Take the A1 east from Edinburgh and head through Haddington on to East Linton. From here take the road south heading towards the might of Traprain Law itself. Pass Traprain and Sunnyside farms and take the next right following the signs. There’s a couple of car parks- the second one from this direction has some Historic Scotland boards telling of history, folklore, natural history etc.
Pitcur Souterrain, Perthshire
Sunday 16/9/01, 11:30am
I’m sitting here at the end of the only remaining roofed section of this massive souterrain writing by the light of my caving helmet. The stillness in here is breathtaking. It’s not really as cold as other sites I’ve been to- I’m sitting in my T-shirt and waterproof trousers. This whole site is, unfortunately, in a bad state. I’ve read in “The Souterrains of Southern Pictland” by F.T. Wainwright (1963) that there were two botched excavations (i.e.- treasure hunts) and that all of the finds have been lost. The whole place is in need of some clearing- along the unroofed sections I found it impossible to walk due to trees growing in the structure, weeds up to my neck and precariously balanced roof lintels still in place at certain parts. Even back in 1963 in the aforementioned book it was described as “site is most depressing, waist deep in nettles, and with trees and bushes growing in the souterrain”. However, this roofed part that I’m in just now is pretty well preserved- and big- about 17 m long and high enough to stand in at sections. At this end the earth floor rises up to meet the roof lintels, but I’m sure this is a recent feature- other souterrains I’ve been in have all ended with solid stone. I’ve carefully placed some candles along the length of the chamber, but it’s not really too dark in here. There are also many remains of some not too carefully placed candles! Time to go back outsideÉBack at the entrance to the remaining roofed section- it looks as if there was a gate or even iron bars barring the entrance at one time. Whoa! I’ve just noticed an amazing cup marked stone on the left of the roofed section. There are also two small side chambers off to the right, one just before the roofed section which is blocked with earth and the other just inside- stone lined and v. small. Back up on ground level and to the right of the roof there is a 1 by 1.5 m approx. cup and ring marked rock lying horizontally with about 30 cup marks, many with associated rings. This is a really huge and complex site, but the condition and overgrowth make it doubly difficult to get an idea of- a case of not seeing the souterrain for the trees!
Note- another souterrain- more cup (and ring) marked stones. Most of these sites I’ve visited have rock carvings, yet, I’ve read that these were places of storage. Why go to the effort of carving (probably magickal) symbols in a cellar? Doesn’t ring quite true with me.
Directions
From Coupar Angus (North of Perth on the A94), take the A923 towards Dundee. Just after the second crossroads (signed Collace and Newtyle) look out for Pitcur farm and cottages on the right hand side. Stop off here and ask permission- I spoke to a manny in the second cottage who said the farmer was quite happy for folk to visit- “aye they get school kids and even folk from as far awa as Fife visitin”! He also said he’s always meant to have a look at the ‘caves’, but never gone up with his torch. Back out of the farm road turn back left again and just down the road on the right hand side there’s a line of fence/wall/bushes/telegraph poles separating two fields. Walk up this and the souterrain in is the fenced off area- you can’t miss the weeds n trees!
Colen Wood Stone Circle, Perthshire
Monday 17/9/01 3:55pm
Number three in a series of three- well sort of! This circle is the third and final site in a line of three circles starting east at Blackfaulds, through Druids Seat and ending here. It’s an absolutely roasting day and after the battle through the gorse and trees to get here I’m a tad hot to say the least. I thought it would be easier getting up here (it’s signed), and maybe once the crop has been harvested it will be. However, just now there’s not much room between the edge of the crop and the barbed wire fence so I came up through the strip of trees where the gorse bushes are also chest high in places and boysoboys does that stuff scratch! The view from here though is just amazing- Perth, the hills of Fife, over to Callander, Ben More etc- wow. There’s not much left standing of this circle- in fact only one stone about 75 cm high of about 13 stones. It’s hard to tell as there are many small stones that might have been placed on this uncultivated piece of ground from the surrounding field. On the remaining upright it looks like there might be the remains of two small cupmarks on the upper surface. However, on a now recumbent stone to the immediate west of this one there are about 30 cup marks showing on its upright surface. So maybe this site is ruinous, but the view has got to be one of the best of any site I’ve visited and it’s an amazing place to spend a quiet mo on a glorious late summer afternoon.
Directions
Travelling south from Blairgowrie on the A93 take the last turn off right just before Guildtown (signed for Stormontfield). Drive past the large farm called Cambusmichael and look out for woods ahead. About halfway through the woods there’s a small layby on the left next to a large gate and fence. Walk further down down the road and there’s a large style over the fence. Look up to the line of trees and you should see the green and white ‘Stone Circle’ sign. Walk up by the trees and the circle is at the top of the hill.
Falls of Acharn, Perthshire
Aug 95 (and 94?)
We’ve been up here on a couple of occasions- it’ a great (signposted) walk up the Falls of Acharn which are pretty spectacular. The day we ventured up here in August 95 was rather overcast and grey. Stopped off at the folly which is marked as ‘caves’ on the OS map, but clearly man-made. There are a few places round here that have similar structures- at the Hermitage near Dunkeld, above Dunkeld itself (at NO019439) and down by Taymouth Castle. Once at the top of the walk a gate leads out onto the hills and passes Queens Wood on the right. Previously we have come up here in search of the cup and ring marked rock in this wood at 764429. We spent ages trying to find it, but to no avail. This time, all of the woods have been felled so we vowed to have a look for the rock on the way back down from the circle. The circle itself is quite ruined and has a dry stane dyke running through it, but these facts don’t detract from the outstanding position this site has overlooking Loch Tay. Many of the stones have fallen, but four of them remain upright. Whilst we were exploring the site a Landrover came up the track and a couple of men came over- turns out one was the landowner and the other a photographer from ‘Country Life’! We got speaking to the landowner who was a nice enough chap and he explained ‘Country Life’ were doing an article on him and his estate- so we had our pics taken for the magazine in the middle of the stones whilst studying a map! I never did check out the mag to see if those shots made it in! They bade us farewell and left us with the stones and view. On the way back down we hunted for about an hour or so for the cup and ring marked rock, but the tree felling meant the land was in a terrible state and once again this site eluded us. Oh well- maybe one day.
Kilmichael Glassary Cup and Ring Marked Rock, Argyll
August 98
On our way back to the tent from Achnabreck, we stopped of here for another dose of cup n ring markings! It was a fine August evening- just perfect weather for taking pics of cup n ring marked rocks. This rock is next to some houses with lots of kiddies out playing so I got the twenty questions from them which was rather amusing. I also made some light and careful wax rubbings onto a piece of cloth which I managed to trail through a very stagnant pool of water on the rocks- yuck. Some of the cups were really quite deep and there was unusual ‘key-hole’ type patterns round a few of em. Another couple appeared when I was in contemplation of the patterns and we got talking about spirals and how they are a universal pattern throughout the world.
Directions
Travelling south from Kilmartin on the A816 to Lochgilphead, turn off left at Bridgend just past Dunadd. Go through Bridgend and the next place just a bit up the road is Kilmichael Glassary. The rock is just to the west of the church with the usual Historic Scotland green fencing!
Clach an Trushal Standing Stone, Lewis
22/7/94
We stopped off here on our way up to the Butt of Lewis on a rather blustery and overcast day- nothing like an enormous standing stone to cheer ya up! This monster is one of the tallest in Scotland and is approx 6 metres tall and covered in a fine array of lichen.
Grey Cairns of Camster, Caithness
Saturday 17/8/96
On a beautiful Saturday morning we stopped off here, well, made a detour really, on our drive from Orkney to Killin. The long cairn of these two is real huge- apparently about 60 metres long. It’s unusual to see cairns that have been denuded of their coverings like this, but they look great nonetheless. There’s wooden walkways from the car parking area across the soggy marsh- which is just as well cos all I’ve got on my feet are my Vans! There are two entrances in the long cairn, both of which are a bit of a stoop. Not as much of a stoop as the round cairn entrance though which was another mucky knees job.
Taversoe Tuick, Rousay
Wednesday 14/8/96
This is an intriguing tomb- three parts to it and all were separate at one point til a slab was moved from the floor of the top chamber and ladders placed in to the lower chamber (the first and probably only time I’ve seen ladders in a cairn!). Climbing down the ladders a passage leads you ending in a metal grill to look back into the outside world. Don’t miss the third part of this place- a small ‘mini-tomb’ built into the mound and accessed through a big wooden door. It’s not big (!) and has four large upright stones supporting the structure. The original roof on the main chamber has gone, so no need for torches etc.
Knowe of Yarso Chambered Cairn
Wednesday 14/8/96
A heavy metal door greets the visitor to this cairn- no crawls on hands and knees here. It’s got one of those horrible domed concrete roofs, but the upright stones of the cairn that subdivide the space make up for it. Apparently this place was used almost 5000 years ago with 29 human remains found. 15 skulls were found in a line facing the wall of the innermost compartment. Today someone has left rabbit skulls and flowers down one endÉ.
Hill o’ Many Stanes, Caithness
Saturday 17/8/96
Jeez- yer not joking- there’s loads of ‘em! This place (and the weather today) is just fab! We’ve made a detour here (and to the Grey Cairns) on our way down to Killin from Orkney where we had to get up at 6:30 am to catch the ferry! “Scotland Before History” (Stuart Piggot) says there’s over 200 stones here in a fan shaped pattern of rows from approx N to S. I brought my dowsing rods up here too and did a spot- there’s shit happening all over the place. The stones are real small too- the tallest can only be a couple of foot or so and some are flat with the earth. Great place.
Grain Souterrain, Kirkwall
Tuesday 13/8/96
In an industrial estate on the outskirts of Kirkwall stands a rectangular fenced-off piece of grassland with a couple of strange looking mounds in it- Grain Souterrain. A set of small stone steps takes you down into the earth (mind yer head on the lintel!) and there’s a passage leads off to the right. It’s only about 5 m or so, then opens up to reveal a larger oval chamber. There are four stone pillars holding up the roof (along with some help from a couple of twentieth century iron bars), some of which have been vandalised with modern-ish day carving. Don’t forget yer torch/lantern- this place is lucky enough still to have the original roof intact. I’m always amazed when I get photos back from souterrains, chambered cairns, caves etc as there’s bugger all to see through the viewfinder and it’s a bit hit or miss!
Broch of Midhowe, Rousay
Wednesday 14/8/96
Had an exploration of this broch after we had visited Midhowe Cairn. However, I wouldn’t be too inquisitive as some of this place looks like it has seen better days and might collapse at any minute (there’s lots of iron bars and bolts holding bits together). I got tutted at by a group of American tourist for (carefully) daring to stand on a low section of wall in order to get a better view inside- well, excuse me! Inside, the broch is divided into two by a very thin stone wall (supported by those iron bars!) and has a hearth, water tank, cupboard-type affairs- much like some of the Skara Brae fittings. A grand place to have lunch and watch the scary wave power in Eynhallow Sound.
Blackhammer Chambered Cairn, Rousay
Wednesday 14/8/96
Of all the sites we visited on the tour de Rousay today, I have to say that this one was the most disappointing. Of the original cairn there’s not much left and what is left is only about 4 foot high or so, then it’s concrete time! If you ignore the cairn remains you could be in some dreadful public lavatory. Not nice or sympathetic restoration.
Broch of Gurness, Orkney Mainland
Tuesday 13/8/96
Tuesday- up early and headed first down to the Broch of Gurness. A great broch with lots of small dwelling houses around it. The entrance to the broch was impressive- solidly built structure- there’s no messing with this place! There was one part that totally fascinated me though, and that was the so-called well in the middle of the broch itself. Unfortunately there’s a Historic Scotland green railing all the way round it making it almost impossible to climb into- well- to stop over-inquisitive idiots like myself from falling in and causing much injury to themselves. Still- didn’t stop me lying on the floor of the broch and hanging over the edge and into the hole of the so-called well itself. See- the thing is- half way down the steps in the well is an alcove to sit in and I just got the feeling that this structure was used as more than a means of getting waterÉ..
After going round the broch with our guide book we walked along Aikerness beach for a bit and the first thing I saw on the beach was a rather nice cowrie shell. However further hunting proved fruitless and it appeared to be the only one!
Maes Howe, Orkney Mainland
Monday 12/8/96
We got up early this morning for a day of exploring megaliths. First stop however was the stores in Finstown called Binkies to stock up on their rather excellent butteries! Next stop- Maes Howe. After landing on Orkney and on our way to the van we’re staying in we passed Maes Howe and many other megalithic sites and I got very excited at the prospect of seeing them all at long last. Parked next to the exhibition house/gift shoppie type place, paid our money and waited to be escorted over the road and on to the tomb. It was like being back at a school trip! The tomb has a fantastic entrance chamber and once inside it’s most impressive- there’s some huge slabs of stone went into the building of that place. Okay- so you get herded about by the (very good) guide and not much time to sit and ponder, but this really pales into insignificance in such a powerful place. Imagine being in there watching the sun set at the Winter SolsticeÉ.