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Spurdagrove

Visited 6.6.12

Although this was day 14 of our holiday it was our first experience of rain!
Because of this I decided against a hike across the field s for a close-up look and used my binoculars instead.

A spotted two stones, each about 1 metre in height, standing next to each other.

I assume these are the standing stones as I couldn’t see any others through the misty rain.

North Howe

Viewed from afar 5.6.12

I didn’t have time to go and have a proper look at this Broch but it is easily visible from Midhowe Broch as a circular stone feature.

Canmore states:
‘North Howe, the scant remains of a broch marked by a grassy mound c.17.0m in diameter and 2.5m maximum height, with traces of the outer wall face visible for a length of about 12.0m around the NW arc. There are no definite traces of outbuildings but the uneven ground in the vicinity is suggestive of a secondary settlement‘

Midhowe

Visited 5.6.12

Dafydd was asleep so for a change I just took Sophie with me; which seemed a good idea at the time but as it turned out perhaps it wasn’t!

I picked Sophie up and we headed down hill across the fields to the huge ‘barn’ housing the equally huge chambered cairn.
A farmer was out muck-spreading which added to the ‘experience’.

As we arrived a couple of people were just leaving so we had the place to ourselves.
Although I had seen many photos of this site it is not until you are here that you can actually fully appreciate how big it is – it is massive!

It was a bit odd at first to be able to walk up above the tomb and look down into it but it does provide a very good view.

The green lichen which I had seen on the stones in similarly covered sites was also present here.

After a good look around it was time to head back to the car. However, this is when I realised it was not such a good idea to have brought Sophie as I was completely knackered by the time I had walked back up the hill and my legs had turned to lead – I must be getting old!

This is another of the many ‘must see’ sites on Rousay.
If you are coming to Orkney you really need to try to visit Rousay –it is a special place.

Broch of Midhowe

Visited 5.6.12

Myself and Sophie wandered around the Broch as part of our visit to the nearby Chambered Cairn.

The Broch is pretty well preserved although a fair bit of it is held together with bolts and metal bars!
You can certainly get a good feel of how people would have lived inside these structures and how the Broch was constructed.

This Broch is the best I visited on Orkney but I have to say it is not as good as a couple I visited on Shetland – but that’s another story!

Loch of Wasbister

Viewed from afar 5.6.12

The remains of the Crannog are easily seen from the B9064 as a grass covered island

Canmore states:
‘This large island site was examined; it supports a large walled enclosure of unknown date, which is divided into two by a cross wall. The larger of the two enclosures is completely overgrown by salmon berry undergrowth and cannot be accessed. The smaller enclosure is less overgrown but still had a significant amount of undergrowth when examined.
The water around the island was snorkelled. The edge of the island had a largely artificial appearance due to the stones from which it is formed. Mostly they are the common slabs from the area, and there was no evidence of them having been systematically laid underwater. However, around the edge of the island, just above the water, there are places where walling could be recognised and it is likely that many of the slabs in the water have fallen from this possible revetment. It was difficult to distinguish in most places where the stones met the loch bed silts as there was a substantial cover of weeds growing on the loch bottom.
The one area where stones could be seen in situ was the remains of a substantial causeway leading to the shore on the W side of the loch. This is very similar in appearance to the causeway noted in the Loch of Stenness and is made up of large stone slabs. It stops just before it reaches the present shore. The loch has a dam on the E side leading to the nearby sea, and the loch level is higher now than in the past. Aerial photographs, not available until after the present underwater survey had been carried out, show a number of features in the shallow water along the shore where the causeway joins it. Although this area was crossed by the team during the survey, there was no obvious evidence of the features and they may now be buried under loch bed silts‘
N Dixon and B Forbes 2004

Whoom

I spotted 2 piles of stones from the road although I do not know if these are the cairns?
The fields slope down towards the sea.

Canmore states:
‘These three mounds are situated 260 m NW of the former farmstead of Whoom in boggy ground at the head of a small hillside valley. They were excavated by Grant (W G Grant 1937) in 1936.
The northernmost mound (’A’ – Grant no 6) measured about 4.5 m in diameter and is still 1 m in height; it contained a cist (see plan) which was found to be empty.
Mound ‘B’ (Grant no 7) measured 7 m in diameter and 1.2 m in height; Grant revealed a cist which contained a club-like stone implement.
The third cairn (’C’ – Grant no 8) lay about 40 m to the S; it was 5.5 m in diameter and 0.3 m in height. It covered a cist containing a steatite urn with a cremation, three other steatite objects (suggested by Grant to be amulets) and ‘cramp’. The cist, normally waterlogged, can still be seen. The finds are in the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland (NMAS) (Accession nos: EQ 438-40). (PSAS 1935). Situated on the summit of a rocky ridge about 100 m NNW of mound ‘A’ there is a further possible example measuring about 2 m in diameter and 0.5 m high (previously un-noted).
Visited by R G Lamb 1980.
RCAHMS 1982; RCAHMS 1946.

When seen in 1972, these mounds were described as being turf-covered, with evidence of central excavations. They appeared to have a content of earth with some stone.
Surveyed at 1:2500.
Visited by OS(AA) 12 October 1972.‘

Quendal

I thought these cairns would be easy enough to spot from the road as the land slopes down towards the sea but despite using my binoculars I couldn’t locate them.

Canmore states:
‘These two mounds are situated a short distance SW of the ruined farmstead of Upper Quandal; they were excavated by Grant in 1936.
W G Grant 1937.

Mound ‘A’ was too spread to be measured accurately, but was at least 0.6 m high and covered a cist containing cremated bone and ‘cramp’ The site is now a small green knoll with a hollow centre (RCAHMS 1982).
Mound ‘B’, 27 m NE of ‘A’, had been opened prior to Grant’s excavation; it measures about 8 m in diameter (RCAHMS 1982). A central cist contained cremated bones, a flint scraper and fragments of pottery, now in the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland (NMAS, Accession no: EA 215). A perforated stone said to be from this mound is also in the NMAS (EQ 441). (PSAS 1935 Donations). There is still an upright slab in the centre of the mound.
Visited by R G Lamb 1980.‘

Knowe of Lairo

Visited 5.6.12

Ever since reading Moth’s exciting field notes I just had to make this tomb a priority visit
All I can say is ‘Wow!’ and echo Moth’s comments – what a fantastic place to visit.

I was a bid worried about finding the tomb or getting access to it but in the end it was all very straight forward.

We parked next to the phone box and I walked up the farm drive while the others stayed in the car. I didn’t want to ‘risk’ taking Dafydd with me on this one. Walk up the drive until you see a gap in the stone wall on your right. All you then need to do is walk a short distance across an overgrown ‘scrubby’ field. Luckily the small stream you have to cross had dried up so that wasn’t a problem. The tomb is not obvious from the road but it is as you get closer.

The entrance to the tomb was clear of vegetation and (fortunately) the mud dried hard.
A large stone is used as the doorway lintel.

I lay on my belly and ‘commando crawled’ my way inside. I was so excited.
I spot some rather unpleasant animal droppings on the floor – I hope no one is at home!
Once you have crawled about 6 metres into the tomb the passage gets a bit higher and you can then waddle into the main chamber.
The ceiling is now a mighty 4 metres above your head.
Like the TARDIS is does indeed seem bigger on the inside.

Notes written from inside the chamber:
I have left the warm Orcadian sunshine behind me and I stand here in the darkness and cool of this scared site. The bright sunshine lures me outside but it is here I want to be.
I shine my light high up onto the roof and along both sides of the narrow passage way.
I have never been into a tomb this shaped before and it reminded me very much of being inside the walls of a Broch.

Two tall upright stones stand approximately 2 metres tall.
I count 5 supporting ‘bracing’ stones used to support the walls – just like a Broch.
Several large stones are used to cap the ceiling

I also count 4 small side chambers / recesses which presumably held the bones?
1 – A small alcove on my left, full of loose masonry
2 – Another small chamber on my left, part blocked with masonry.
3 – Behind me a sealed off chamber with a ‘shelf’ – a small gap allows me to shine my torch into the chamber.
4 – Standing on the chest high ‘shelf’ I look into an alcove on my right.

I decide to turn the light off and sit on the ‘shelf’ in silent contemplation.
You can ‘feel’ the atmosphere of the place and perhaps ever so slightly be in touch with the ancients.

This is a truly wondrous site to visit.
Not only is it so different to any other tomb I have visited it; when crawling up the passage it does feel like you are the first person to discover the site. A real ‘rough and ready’ place.
No easy access or carefully cleaned out chambers here.
No sign posts, information boards or coach loads of visitors.
This is how it must have felt when visiting burial chambers 100 years ago.

It was time to return to the others in the car – I could have stayed a lot longer than I did.
Before I crawled back out along the passage I left a coin ‘offering’ in a gap in the stones.
This is not something that I normally do and I can offer no logical reason why I did other than it ‘felt’ like the right thing to do – make of that what you will.

Of all the very many sites I visited during my stay in the Western Isles, Orkney and Shetland this would be in my top 3 – along with watching the sun rise from the Callanish stones and being inside the Dwarfie Stane on Hoy.

In terms of sheer excitement – this is probably the best site I have ever visited.

If you are fairly nimble I would recommend you make this a ‘must see’ site when on Rousay.
(Wear old clothes if it is wet – you are going to get muddy!)

Westness

All that can be seen is a small rough grass covered paddock which has a mound in it.

Canmore states:
‘A grass-covered mound, 40 ft by 35 ft and 3 ft high, stands on a shelf in sloping ground between Westness house (HY 383 289) and the public road, about 25 yds from the latter and 250 yds from the Bay of Westness, about 100 ft above sea-level.
Excavations in 1933 by J.G.Callander and Grant showed that the mound was of earth with small stones with, at the centre, an irregular sub-oval chamber, 8 ft 9 ins long by 6 ft 11 ins wide.
The NE corner had been torn out by an unrecorded excavation although a small section indicated the building line. There was no sign of an entrance passage or of corbelling or roof supports. A few small flags set in the floor suggested a bed-or hearth-like arrangement, 4 ft long by 2 ft 9 ins broad. There is a small built recess in the NW angle and the remains of a larger one at the opposite end.
The only relics discovered, burnt human bone and charcoal, suggest that the structure was sepulchral.
W G Grant 1934; RCAHMS 1946.

This turf-covered mound, at HY 3840 2898, is as described above. It is hollowed in the centre but there is no sign of the internal structure.
Surveyed at 1/2500.
Visited by OS (RL) 10 June 1967.‘

Knowe of Yarso

Visited 5.6.12

It’s a fair old hike uphill to reach this Chambered Cairn (15 minutes) but it is certainly worth the effort.
By the time I reached the metal door to the Cairn I was breathing hard.
I was glad I decided to leave Sophie and Dafydd in the car!

Although this site is better preserved than the Blackhammer Chamber Cairn it still suffers from the same lack of atmosphere.
This is of course due to the same large concrete cover/ lighting etc.

As with most of the sites I visited on Rousay I had the place to myself.

There are 9 standing stones remaining with the same bright green lichen prevalent.

This site is still worth visiting but you will need to be reasonably fit to do so.

Knowe of Burrian

Viewed from the Knowe of Yarso Chamered Cairn.
5.6.12

From the Knowe of Yarso the remains of the Broch can be clearly seen as a prominent mound near a farm and the loch. A dry stone wall runs across the site.

Canmore states:
‘The remains of a broch of which little stonework is visible. The north arc is represented by a curving grassy mound about 2m high. Stone built boat houses are constructed against the broch on the east and west sides. There are some indications of an outer bank’.

Long Stone

Visited 5.6.12

The stone is easy enough to spot – on the main road – next to a garage.

It is approximately 2 metres tall.
It is a gnarled old thing.

Blackhammer

Visited 5.6.12

A short distance west from Taversoe Tuick Chambered Cairn and also sign posted with a small parking area.

Another easy site to access.
Access into the chamber is through a metal sliding hatch and down a small metal ladder.

The remaining walls are about 1 metre high and there are 10 large stones standing.
The chamber is well lit but it lacks the atmosphere and quality of Taversoe Tuick.

There is however a large glass window which allows you to see how the retaining walls were constructed which is pretty good.

As with Taversoe, the views are wonderful.

This is one of those places that you feel you must visit but it is not one of the best of the Rousay sites. At least it is still here and deserves to be seen.

Taversoe Tuick

Visited 5.6.12

Taking a clock-wise route around Rousay from the ferry on the B9064 (as most people do) this is the first site you come to.

The site is signposted and has a small parking area.
A rough stony path leads up to the Chambered Cairn. It is only a short walk.

Myself and Dafydd pulled back the heavy wooden door and we climbed down the loose metal ladder.

I sat on the stone shelf in a side chamber and all was silence. It was very atmospheric.
I looked around and admired the stonework and the bright green lichen covering the stones.

The second, lower chamber is accessed from the opposite side by sliding back a metal hatch.
This chamber is small, damp and muddy but equally finely constructed.

This is an excellent site to visit and affords cracking views over to the other islands.
I watched a ferry plying its trade in the distance.

One of many ‘must see’ sites on Rousay.

Cubbie Roo’s Burden

Visited 5.6.12

My first Rousay site.

Coming off the ferry (well done to Karen for her expert reverse driving onto the ferry!) we turned right as everyone else turned left.
Before hitting the more famous prehistoric sites of Rousay I wanted to check out this Chambered Cairn.

We parked on the road (B9064) just south of the Cairn and I jumped over the barbed wire fence and walked up to the site – through the heather.

The Cairn is approx 1.5 metres high x 15 metres across.
It has clearly been dug into and has bushes growing all over it.

There was one stone still standing in the centre of the Cairn which looked like it may be the side of a cist? Several other stones were seen sticking out of the ground.

There are lovely views out across the water to the other Orkney Islands.
There was no wind and the water was calm.

Although this Cairn wouldn’t be at the top of your Rousay sites to visit it is worth a quick look if you have the time.

Canmore states:
‘Cobbie Row’s Burden: An Orkney-Cromarty round cairn situated on a hillside (55 m OD). It is circular, some 52 ft in diameter and 4 ft high. Part of the interior has been removed and in the side of the resultant hollow, but in the centre of the cairn, the tops of five upright stones can be seen. They represent two pairs of divisional stones with a back-slab behind. The outer part of the chamber and the passage cannot be traced at present’
Visited by A S Henshall 1959.

Yetnessteen

Visited 5.6.12

This was my last site on my day on Rousay before heading back to catch the ferry.

There is plenty of room to park on the road leading to Faraclett farm and the public footpath leading around Faraclett Head is well sign posted. There is also an information board.

Follow the footpath uphill but you then need to come off the permissive path and head east.
It took me a while to find the stone as I was expecting it to be on the higher ground when in fact it is at the bottom of the hill.

This is a very large stone which wouldn’t look out of place in Avebury!
It is about 7ft tall, 5ft wide and 2ft deep. It is covered in moss and green/yellow lichen.
The stone has a large crack running through it.

It takes about 15 minutes to walk from the parking area to get to the stone but the effort is well worth it.
You pass through fields full of sheep/lambs and there are decent coastal views to be enjoyed.

It is a bit of a drive from the main sites on the south of Rousay but if you have the time I would certainly recommend a visit.

Tingwall

Visited 5.6.12

You can’t miss it when heading down to Tingwall to catch the ferry over to Rousay.
The Broch is right next to the road but the other side of a barbed wire fence.

The Broch is now a very large mound (approx 4 metres high x 50 metres long)
There are lots of stones sticking out of the grass.

Grain Souterrain

Visited 5.6.12

On the way to catch the ferry to Rousay we stopped off to have a look at the Grain Souterrain.

We called into the jewellers to pick up the keys (the staff were very friendly and helpful) and we drove the short distance (300 metres) to the site (well sign posted).
Historic Scotland provided a torch but I think the batteries needed changing!
Fortunately we had brought our own head lights.

Dafydd and myself climbed down the steps and into the main chamber.
I was just about able to stand up straight – Dafydd had no such problem.

Although it was warm outside, down here you could see your breath.
The Souterrain is well constructed and has 4 large uprights supporting the roof.
Drips of water trickled over some of the stones.

This is a very easy site to access – don’t be put off by having to ask for the keys – and is well worth a visit when in Kirkwall.

Linga Fold

Viewed from road 6.6.12

The most southern of this barrow group is visible from the road.
It appears to be approximately 1 metre high x 8 metres across.

Canmore states:
‘A group of 13 barrows situated at the SW end of a prominent ridge. The largest and most southern is undoubtedly the barrow which contained the single short-cist cremation. The urn cannot be located’

Stackrue Broch

Visited 5.6.12

We passed the Broch several times as there was a family of short eared owls nesting along the road and Karen spent many hours trying to take photos of them!

The Broch is right next to the road and a simple climb over the gate and you are on top of it.
There is room to pull over next to the Broch. The Broch is approximately 1.5 metres high.

The circular shape of the Broch can be made out and I was able to see 5 layers of remaining stonework. There is lots of loose stone strewn about the area.

This is a very easy ruined Broch to visit and worth a quick stop when in the area.

Ring of Brodgar

Visited 4.6.12

My initial impression was one of being surprised at how large the circle is.
I knew this was the 3rd largest in Britain but it still surprised me.

I visited the circle several times over the week in sunshine and rain; afternoon and evening.
Sometimes there were coach loads of people present, other times just a couple of people.

Another surprise is how difficult it is to photograph the circle due to its size and the fact it is built on a slope.

A footpath runs around the circle while the rest of the site is covered in heather.
Several small signs request you stay on the path to protect the site.

The standing stones are impressive although (in my opinion) not as impressive as the ones at Stenness. I wasn’t expecting to see the large cracks in most of the stones or the way the cracks had been filled with cement to help protect them.

A sign next to one stone states that it was struck by lightening in 1980. The lump of stone broken off lies next to the still standing section and it is blackened by the lightening strike.

As impressive as the stones is the surrounding ditch. This must have been a massive undertaking in its own right.

I enjoyed my visits to Brodgar and it is an obvious ‘must see’ site but somehow it didn’t have the ‘wow’ factor for me. I think I was still influenced by the stones at Stenness.

Bookan

Visited 6.6.12

This chambered cairn is easy to visit as it is right next to the Ring of Bookan Henge.
We parked in a passing place and I hopped over the locked metal field gate and walked straight up the track to the top of the hill – 5 minute walk.

The cairn is well mangled and stands approx 1.5 metres high x 10 metres across.
There are lots of stones sticking out of the grass.

There are great views from the cairn overlooking the Ring of Brodgar, Ness of Brodgar etc.

Bookan Cairns

View from the road 6.6.12

Three cairns are visible from the road.
They each looked to be approximately 2 metres high x 10 metres across.

I didn’t try for a closer look as the field in which they stand was full of cows with their calves.

Ring of Bookan

Visited 6.6.12

The top of the Henge is just visible from the road.

We parked in a passing place and I hopped over the locked metal field gate and walked straight up the track to the top of the hill – 5 minute walk.

The Henge was a lot better preserved than I was expecting and I walked right around the circumference of the ditch, which is still fairly deep.

No coach loads of visitors here!

Ness of Brodgar Cairns

Visited 4.6.12

There are several cairns which can be seen from near the Ring of Brodgar.

The largest is approximately 2 metres high x 20 metres across and has been clearly dug into.
I also spotted 4 smaller mounds each approximately 1 metre high x 15 metres across and 1 slight ‘bump’.
The cairns were covered in rough grass.

Canmore states:
A group of eight tumuli to the SE of the Ring of Brodgar (HY21SE 1) was visited by the Commission in August 1928. (Seven were published in 1881 on the OS 25"map 1881 1st ed. and six in 1903 on the OS 6"map 1903 2nd ed.)
They varied from 17 ft to 36 ft in diameter and from mere inches up to 3 or 4 ft in height. Three showed signs of excavations.
F W L Thomas 1852; RCAHMS 1946.

These possible cairns or barrows are as described by the Commission except that weathering and cultivation have affected their outlines. Where sufficient remains, they are grass-covered mounds of stone or earth and stone, some of them flat-topped, and they vary from 4.5m. to 12.8m.in diameter and up to 1.1m. in height. No finds have been reported from any of the group.
Resurveyed at 1/2500.
Visited by OS (RB) 24 April 1966.

Clouduhall

Visited 3.6.12

My 1000th field note!

Like the nearby cairn, easily seen from the minor road to the north.

The stone is approximately 2 metres high and thin looking.

Clouduhall

Visited 3.6.12

Easily seen from the minor road as a grass covered mound with several stones sticking out.

The cairn has clearly been dug into at some point in the past.

Southtown (Burray), St Lawrence Church

Visited 3.6.12

The church is within a ‘dip’ and there was a short stretch of walling to be seen (4 course high) but I do not know if this is anything to do with the broch or more recent stonework?

The church itself is an overgrown ruin although the graveyard is well maintained.

Built onto the side of the church is a derelict shed with an asbestos roof which I kept well away from!

There are really good coast views from the church and a lovely looking beach to the north.

The Fossil Museum is not far away and worth a visit. They have a very good café.

Plumcake Mound

Visited 4.6.12

The barrow is well mangled.
It is a short walk from the Ring of Brodgar car park.

A scruffy barrow covered in scruffy grass.
But still with us nonetheless!!

Salt Knowe

Visited 4.6.12

This Barrow is huge – approximately 30 metres across x 3 metres high.

An information board stated that it has never been excavated and it is thought that there may be a passage grave inside. The barrow is comparable in size to Maeshowe.
I see Wideford states it has been surveyed so the info board is out of date.

You get a good view of the Ring of Brodgar from the top of the Barrow.

I couldn’t see ant trace of the cist – perhaps it has grown over?

Fresh Knowe

Visited 4.6.12

This Barrow is huge – approximately 30 metres across x 3 metres high.

You get a good view of the Ring of Brodgar from the top of the Barrow.
As has been said the edge of the Cairn is right next to the edge of the loch.

Access is over a gate from the Comet stone.

Comet Stone

Visited 4.6.12

Although there were a fair few people milling around the Ring of Brodgar I was the only person taking the short walk to say ‘hello’ to this stone – which is a shame.

The stone is on a small mound (approx 1 metre high x 10 metres across) and is approx 2 metres tall x 1 metre across.
The stone is covered (for a change) in yellow lichen.
There are two stones sticking out of the ground at the stone’s base.

Knockan

Failed to spot these two chambered cairns.
The ground here is very steep, rough and has lots of natural boulders scattered about.

Canmore states:

Knockan 1
‘An overgrown mound of debris 17.5m x 15m x 1.5m high. Just west of the centre is a triangular shaped slab 1 m high x 3mm thick with another 1.5m to the south protruding through the turf. Both slabs are undoubtedly part of a chamber of uncertain plan’.

Knockan 2
‘The cairn survives as a turf covered mound of debris. It is now roughly oval and measures 15m x 10m x 1.5m high. From the summit of the mound the tops of 5 stones of the chamber protrude to a height of 0.5m’.

Maeshowe

Visited 4.6.12

Despite arriving at Tormiston Mill at 10.00am the earliest tour we could get on was 7.00pm! (Twilight tour) We spent the day visiting other sites in the area and duly returned at 6.30pm as requested. Unsurprisingly Dafydd was the only child on the tour and he was the only one with a head light on!

Karen and Sophie stayed and looked around the shop whilst myself and Dafydd followed the painted footprints across the road and to the chamber – just in case we couldn’t find it!

The tour was full (12 people I think) and we were soon joined by Ben our guide – who also had a torch.

A brief introduction talk was given outside and we then all slowly entered the burial chamber. Dafydd and myself hung around at the back so we could walk a bit slower and take in as much as possible. Once inside, the main chamber was larger than I expected and there was plenty of room for all of us. As previously mentioned the stonework is excellent.

Ben then gave a very informative talk and invited questions from the ‘audience’ which he duly answered as best he could. It was then time to see the Viking Runes and the lights were turned off so they could be highlighted by Ben’s torch – which it did superbly.
(I wasn’t expecting to see a dragon/griffin carving)
We took it in turns to have a closer look and before we knew it, it was time to leave.
The time went really quick and everyone seemed to enjoy their visit.

Make sure you book well in advance if you are under time constraints. It must get mega busy in the main holiday period.

I know this type of organised tour is not everyone’s cup of tea but I don’t have a problem with them. At least this way you are guaranteed to be able to have a look in the tomb with a relatively small number of people. Without this system it would be like sardines in the chamber. I don’t know how you would get out once you were inside!
It does also allow the site to be protected for future generations to enjoy.

The Watchstone

Visited 4.6.12

This is one large and very impressive stone.
It would not look out of place at Stenness.

I hope someone doesn’t drive into it!

Lochview

Visited 4.6.12

The B9055 can be a busy old road and this could make seeing these stones difficult if travelling by car.

I waited until the evening when all was quiet and we were able to pull up next to the house.
What a great feature to have in your garden!

One stone is approximately 1.5 metres high and the other 3 metres high.
The tops of the stones are covered in ‘hairy’ lichen – the most I have seen on a stone so far.

The Standing Stones of Stenness

Visited 4.6.12

I won’t bother to describe the stones in any detail as it has already been done by many others before me. All I would say is that they are a lot taller in real life than they appear in photos.
They are certainly the best standing stones I have ever seen which make up a stone circle.

I visited the stones several times during my week on Orkney as they are so worthy a visit, so easy to visit and you tend to pass then whilst going to other sites around Orkney.

The first time I visited was under a cloudless evening when I had the place to myself.
I also visited in the rain and biting wind when I had coach loads of people for company!

A good way to see the stones is sat in the window of the ice cream parlour!
(The Orkney coconut ice cream is probably the best I have ever tasted – you, yum!)

This is an obvious ‘must see’.

Ness of Brodgar

Visited 4.6.12

They are currently doing road works next to the site – not sure if this is for sea defences or widening the road which is single track at this point?

Karen parked a bit further down the road and I hopped on the small stone wall to see what I could see? All I could see was the previous years dig fully covered in tarpaulin.
The site is quite a large area.

At this point a car pulled up and wound the window down.
It was a Historic Scotland ‘Ranger’ who wanted to know what I was up to?
When I explain I was informed that this year’s dig wouldn’t be starting until 16th July.
I said ‘ok, thanks’ and she drove off while I walked back to the car.

It will be of interest to see what they unearth this year?

Barnhouse Stone

Visited 4.6.12

The stone stands in the middle of a field but you really can’t miss it.

The field in which it stands was in crop so I settled for a roadside view so not to cause any damage.

Although the stone lines up with the entrance to Maeshowe it was strangely not mentioned by our guide when we visited Maeshowe later in the evening.

Barnhouse Settlement

Visited 4.6.12

When I arrived at the site a Historic Scotland ‘Ranger’ was just finishing giving a talk.
During the summer months there are free talks given at both Stenness and Brodgar.

Surely these buildings are related to the stone circle?

Between the building and the loch I noticed two large stones.
One is standing (right on the loch side) and about 1 metre high. It looks old and was covered in lichen.
The other is prostrate and is about 2 metres x 1 metre.
I have not seen any mention of these stones before so I assume they are ‘modern’?

South Liddel

Visited 3.6.12

You come to this site on the way to the tomb (it’s about half way).

I must say that I got a lot more out of this visit after listening to the talk we were given at the visitor centre.

The floor plan of the building is very clear to see.

The burnt mound is right next to it.

Creag Bhreac Mhor

View from afar 2.6.12

The O/S map shows ‘Stone Row’ a little north of Cnoc Freiceadain chambered cairns.

I didn’t have time to go tramping over the fields for a close-up look but I thought I may have been able to spot the stones form atop the chambered cairn with the help of my trusty binoculars. Unfortunately I couldn’t make the stones out.

The fields are covered in gorse and generally overgrown.

Canmore states:
‘The stone rows, in a hollow on undulating moorland, are considerably obscured by peat and heather growth. Only half the stones can be traced. The southern stones have been almost entirely buried by the vegetation. The stones appear to radiate from the direction of the two cairns’.
** This report is from 1969 so it doesn’t surprise me I couldn’t see anything.

The Sian

Visited 2.6.12

A large grass covered mound to the left of a white farmhouse.
Directly across the road from Cnoc Freiceadain chambered cairns.

Canmore states:
‘The mound is 2m high and has been mutilated in the north wand west by excavation and in the south east by a garden extension. It’s regular shape suggests a burial cairn’.

Lamb Holm

Visited 3.6.12

After visiting the Fossil Museum (with its very nice cafe) and the amazing Italian Chapel (a ‘must see’) I wanted to take a quick look at this ‘ancient village’.

In truth all I saw was a lumpy / bumpy field. I wasn’t expecting much else so I wasn’t disappointed.

Tomb of the Eagles

Visited 2.6.12

After a very enjoyable hour or so at Banks Chamber Tomb I was really looking forward to my visit to the famous Tomb of the Eagles.

We parked in the large car park and wandered into the visitor’s centre. There were a few people around but not too many. Karen and Sophie looked around the shop whilst myself and Dafydd paid our money and entered a side room where we were given a talk about the site and what had been found. This is also the room which has the finds in glass cases.
The lady giving the talk took some objects out to show us (including the skulls) and we were allowed to hold a few stone items. There were several of us in the room and the talk was very interesting. I was hoping to be able to hold the famous polished ‘button’ but had to settle for looking at it through glass instead.

We then went into another room where we had an interesting talk on the brunt mound and Bronze Age building also discovered. I will certainly give more thought to burnt mounds in future! All questions asked were well answered and all the staff were very friendly.

We then went outside and it was a little daunting to see the sign which said the tomb was 1 mile away – I knew this meant a part-walk / part-carry with Dafydd! Lucky the weather was nice. Dafydd insisted on wearing his ‘burial chamber’ kit – head light and old clothes.

The rest of the group decided to head straight for the tomb but me and Dafydd instead went to visit the Bronze Age building and Liddlell Burnt Mound. This worked well as we ended up have both sites to ourselves. I was able to appreciate the building / burnt mound a lot more after listening to the talk we had just had.

We then walked out to the main attraction and were glad to see everyone else had moved on. Dafydd excitedly lay on the ‘skateboard’ and pulled himself inside. I excitedly followed!

Inside the chamber was light and airy. We took it in turn to peer/crawl into the side chambers and look at the skulls behind the Perspex. Once we had seen enough we pulled ourselves back out of the tomb and walked back to the visitor centre.

Karen and Sophie were patiently waiting for us and chatting to staff, who kindly provided a box of toys to keep her entertained. We looked around the shop and I bought a guide book although in hindsight I wished I had also bought a sweatshirt.

As we were leaving the lady who gave the first talk called us to one side. She said that she and her staff had been very impressed with Dafydd’s behaviour, knowledge and interest in the site. She asked if Dafydd would like a photo holding ‘Jock Tamson’s’ skull? – of course he did!
We went back into the room and the door was closed. Dafydd was handed the skull and was able to hold it (with support from the lady) whilst Karen took some prized photos. I was really impressed by how friendly the staff were and very proud of Dafydd to be recognised this way.

It goes without saying that this is a ’must see’ site for anyone visiting Orkney (although I thought the guide book was a bit pricy at £5.95)
(Don’t forget to visit the nearby Banks Tomb while you are at it. Both sites are fab!)

Sorquoy

Visited 3.6.12

Take the turn off for St Peter’s Kirk off the main A961.

When we visited the fields were in crop so I settled for a view from the road which was easy enough given the size of this monster stone.

There are good coastal views to be had from the stone.

Ladykirk Stone

Visited 3.6.12

Well I did visit but the church door was locked and I couldn’t get the key as it was a Sunday.
I tried looking through the windows but couldn’t see the stone.
The church is right on the shoreline.

I did have a look around the lovely old grave yard and admired the weather beaten old tombstones covered in the now familiar ‘hairy’ lichen.

I do like an old church / graveyard with character.

Banks

Visited 3.6.12

Day 9 of my holiday and my first day on Orkney!
I couldn’t have picked a better place to start my ‘Grand Tour’.

We caught the morning ferry over from Gills (boy was it windy!) and we arrived at Banks late morning. As we pulled up in the car park a lady approached us and asked if we had come for a tour of the chambered cairn? – Which of course we had. Karen stayed in the car with Sophie while Dafydd and myself walked over to the tomb, along with Barbara our guide.

Barbara pulled the wooden board out of the way which was blocking the entrance to the tomb and the 3 of us climbed down backwards. Barbara gave us an overview of the tomb and explained that 3 of the chambers had not yet been excavated but would be this summer.

We then had time to have a look in the chambers which had been excavated. Barbara was excellent with Dafydd and was surprised by his knowledge of burial chambers!
She also said he was the first visitor to the tomb who could walk along the passage without needing to bend down! Dafydd insisted on helping Barbara with her torch.

We then vacated the tomb and were shown into the nearby wooden shed.
Here Barbara carefully took various finds out of a box for us to hold or look at. These included human and animal bones, an antler tool pick and the stones scratched with lines.
We were able to hold the antler tool, a knee bone and the stones but not the leg bone.

It was great to visit a site still under investigation and who knows what they will find when they resume the dig this summer? It only cost £5 for what was in affect a private tour and I have to say that Barbara was excellent with Dafydd – an absolute bargain.

Banks is clearly a ‘work in progress’ in terms of establishing itself as a visitor attraction and it feels a bit ‘rough and ready’ – although I think this only adds to the charm of a visit. I am sure in the future it will be as ‘polished’ as a visit to the nearby Tomb of the Eagles. It is nice to be able to say I visited the site before the ‘polish’ is applied!

This is a top notch place to visit and I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Along with the Tomb of the Eagles this is a MUST SEE site on South Ronaldsay.

If you happen to read this Barbara, thanks for helping make our visit such a memorable one.

Cnoc Freiceadain

Visited 2.6.12

There is a tiny Historic Scotland sign pointing the way to the long cairns from the minor road to the east. A wooden stile is helpfully provided to get over the field fence. It is then just a matter of heading up hill until you reach the cairns.

The small information board states the cairns are 5,000 years old. Both cairns are mangled but they are not looking bad for their age! H.S. state the cairns have never been excavated.

Both cairns are large and approximately 2 metres high. There are lots of small stones sticking out of the turf covering the cairns. There are also several large stones – one very large being about 1.5 metres long (part of the passage?)

There are good coastal views from the cairns and it does make you think that perhaps they were sited here to be seen from the sea? Away in the distance a power station and wind farm now dominate the shoreline.

These cairns are impressive but it was getting towards the end of a long day / drive so I don’t think I appreciated them as much as I should have. It’s a long old drive to get up here!

Glacbain

Viewed from road 2.6.12

Easy to spot grass covered mound on spur of land just north of Elphin on the A835

Canmore states:
‘This cairn is on a prominent spur on the north side of a hill summit. The cairn measures 4.1m across. The cist measures 1.1m long x 0.5m x 0.4m deep. The capstone, broken, lies displaced across the cist’.