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Fieldnotes
| 11 October 2010. We headed South through the forestry from the car park a mile or two south of Machrie. The car park is well signposted and a visit to the caves is best done as a circular walk. Over the years we have built a preference for walking in heading South and returning to the car park along the cliff walk to the North of the caves. It just seems easier, and this walk does involve walking over a few hills (The Big Hill of the King - Torr Righ Mor) on the way in and (The Little Hill of the King - Tor Righ Beag) on the way back. The shortened name Tormore is given to an area of farms a mile to the North. Just three short months ago we were here in baking summer sunshine. Now today the wind is driving into us with an arctic blast although the sun is shining brightly. My other and better half thoughtfully carried my fleece and waterproof out of the car boot leaving it usefully hanging in a wardrobe in our cottage at King's Cross Point on the other side of the island. I pulled on my hat with earflaps and gritted my teeth as we marched into the wind. Junior ran ahead doing aeroplane impressions along the path. It takes about twenty five minutes of stiff walking to get to the cliffs above the caves and begin the descent. (Anyone with kids who visits this site might want to detour up the first burn along the shore to see the dinosaur footprints on a sandstone slab. There are also more dino-footprint trails on the Cleats Shore below Bennecarrigan between Torrylinn and Sliddery on the South end of the island) There were plenty of visitors on the Sunday lunchtime when we visited. They all really focussed in on the main King's Cave. Some christian person had thoughtfully painted yellow emulsion over an ancient incised cross. Although I dont do chalking of cups, rings, carvings etc I can understand why people used to do that kind of thing. But this emulsion is new since July, so what gives? Why? I suppose I should be glad they didn't daub their cornflake yellow Dulux over the human figures, cups, rings, Ogham writing, fish, deer and curly celtic snakes. There is also an enormous amount of graffitti from the last couple of hundred years. And everything is covered in a semi-congealed, cave-slime concretion which makes photography difficult in the deep darkness. We picnic on the shore further along and then explore some of the other caves. A few of the others have graffitti and carvings. There are about twenty caves in all and a few natural arches. There is a superb cave, fourth in from the North, which has a twenty metre long "corridor", a metre wide, which ends with a great chamber off on the right of the "corridor". I got a bit ruffled in the very dark enclosed space and had to leg it out pronto. I would have been useless in a Chilean Mine. The walk back out is an easy one, once you are up on the cliff top. Out at sea, the wind whipped the Kilbrannan Sound into a froth of dancing white horses and reminded me that I had no fleece or jacket. Once the path opens out beyond the forestry the views North are spectacular. Machrie is spread before you and in the distance the big solitary stone at Druid stands out like an exclamation mark near the mouth of the Iorsa. The caves are well worth a visit, the whole visit can be done in about two and a half hours (taking your time) and while the site is listed here as of uncertain antiquity... you'll be in no doubt that these caves have been used by people for as long as they have been landing their boats on Arran's shores. |
Posted by Howburn Digger16th October 2010ce Edited 17th October 2010ce
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I love your notes, HD. I can almost feel the cold and damp going through my own jumper. It's so interesting for me to read an enthusiastic human account of a place that I've only spotted some dryish folklore for. The whole huge place sounds and looks superb. The selectively applied cornflakey paint might initially make one feel outraged but then I suppose it proves the site's totally accepted continued standing in the mind of at least one person, someone who sees it as a naturally meaningful christian symbol and not just a bit of interesting rock carving. Not that I'm condoning paint of course. Just that the fact they wouldn't consider it an ill-advised thing to do, rather says something about their mindset regarding the cave? Dunno. Anyway, I found it really interesting and amusing, thank you. |
Posted by Rhiannon17th October 2010ce |
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