Latest Fieldnotes

These kists are all within easy reach of each other,three of them being to the east of Goldsmiths cross and the other to the south just outside the newtake wall.The closest to the cross is in the poorest condition while the other two that are in amongst tin workings and are in better condition,one having almost a complete kerb around it.These are seperetad by the remains of a tinner’s hut.The one outside the newtake is odd in that one of the sides is made up of two stones.They are all easy to find by following the wall along the south side of Foxtor Mire.

The cairn/kist is in a part of the Dendles Plantation that has been cut down so is easy to find.It is situated just to the side of the path which runs through the wood and has had a marker put nearby to show where the kist is.

The kist is situated in wet ground around the head of the stream that runs through the Coombebrook settlement and is to the west of the Stalldown Row.

The two kists are to the south of Blakey Tor, one to the east side and one to the west. They are easily reached from the path which runs across Royal Hill. They are almost due north from The Crock of Gold. They are well worth a visit as the view north east from them is excellent, a good place to spend time over a coffee.

I visited this site on a weekend at Constantine Bay. It is very overgrown and one of the side walls has been propped up to stop it collapsing. It wasn’t obvious where the reputed ‘sacred stone’ (see Misc section) was due to the foliage on the site. The biggest lump under the tower just looked like a large, flat step, but looking at the illustration this is where it would be. This stone is just visible in the first photo. It does seem a wierd place to go to the trouble of building a church, and one can imagine this secluded hollow in the sand could have been a sacred place for a long time beforehand. It was obviously a good place to gather and feast on shellfish, as the kitchen midden would suggest.

There is also a Well near the ruin, but I was too scared to venture out across the golf course!

Access: It is in the middle of Trevose golf course, and unless you like the feeling of being under fire then it is best to go to the Golf (and Country Club!!) Reception in Constantine Bay and ask a nice man to point the way through the flying golf balls.
Once at the church you are tucked in the middle of a mound and it is quite peaceful!

There are other sites of interest in the area which are worth a look; Cataclews Point with it’s 3 burial cist barrows (see Ficklefingers post below), and, further around the coast path in Harlyn Bay, is a burial ground which has yielded many interesting finds and was thought to be in use from pre-history up until just before the Roman invasions. (See links section)

The Stone of Morphie stands atop a small rise in SE Aberdeenshire, north of Montrose and west of the village of St Cyrus. An impressive 10ft stone with interesting whorls, shapes, colours and markings, it struggles to achieve its full grandeur against the utilitarian backdrop of a modern farm.

In many ways a fantastic site, but it seemed a bit processed to me somehow... Maybe it was the iron gate that had been added to the entrance for no apparent reason, or maybe it was just ‘cos I saw so much good stuff beforehand (Bodowyr & Trefignath) that I got spoilt. Why move a bit of a monument to a museum? The original stone surely looks better in its own setting than in a glass case.

Didn’t anybody else see the faces in one of the stones??? We only saw them after we looked at the photos on the digital camera and it was pretty freaky – depending on your interpretation, there was a grumpy old man or a malevolent old hag....Vicky screamed and ran around the field when she saw it!!!!

Visited the longbarrow on 14/4/05. Myself and my husband were the only visitors there. The inside of the barrow was clean and no signs of the reported rats or rat droppings and no food had been left. Someone had decided to draw a phallic symbol in chalk on the big stone so with some honest spit and a wipe I manged to clean most of it off. It was quite an experience to be there in the peace and quiet and take in the surroundings completely alone.

Travel east from Castlebay for about 5-10 mins climbing upward on the A888. You will pass a group of trees and bushes on your right, about 300 metres after these the road bends quite sharp and you have a good view of the bay on your right. Park here, any where you can (off the road). Look back towards Ben Heaval behind you. The standing Stones are on the rise between you and the mountain. You wont see them until you climb to the top of the rise.This will take you about 5 minutes (me, about 15) There is a very uncongrous modern utility building situated next to them.

Remember that there are two stones here, the lovely curving pointing one and its sad twin lying broken on the ground a few feet away.

The view from these stones is one of the most elevated that I have come across from a standing stone monument. So try and visit on a clear day to get the best from this location.

Sadly there is nothing left of this site anymore.
I spent half a day searching the hedgerows looking for the mearest hint of a barrow and found nothing.

Pat O’Halloran recently discovered these stones on the flanks of Loose Howe.
I had a walk up there recently and carefully peeled back the heather to reveal further cup marks.

One of the Sussex Neolithic Causewayed Enclosures, (others being The Trundle , Combe Hill and Whitehawk Camp)
Offham is much damaged by quarrying.

Ooops! Just updating these notes as last time I visited and posted I was looking at an 18th Century chalk pit, not a Neolithic Causewayed Enclosure!

The remains of the enclosure are actually up on top of the hill, just to the North of 3 bowl barrows (and, more prominently, a covered reservoir). The chalkpit has completely eaten the whole side of the hill, and taken the eastern half of the enclosure with it. Only a visit can make you appreciate just how much damage was done to the hill by chalk quarrying. One side of the site is a sheer quarry cliff.
What is left is a large C shape of ‘causewayed’ banks and ditches, the top half of which disappears into the woods on the northern slope.
However, this is all barely perceptible now, especially as the site appears to be returning to woodland quite rapidly. I scurried around like an idiot looking for something bank or ditch – like to photograph, but to no avail! You can just perceive some of the earthworks in the scrub, but it is nigh on impossible to trace any distinct circular pattern. Maybe better in the winter. Times like these you wish you could fly and get a bird’s eye view. (Although the multimap aerial photo doesn’t reveal much either)

Frustrated at the lack of obvious monument, I turn my attention to the setting: this is such a beautiful spot, and it’s location at the very edge of the Downs may have made it a special, boundary zone for early settlers. I know I will return again later in the season, and sit and feast on some of these wild strawberries that carpet much of this site.

Access: Park in Offham Village near the Church, cross the busy A275, over a stile and take the steep footpath up the side of the hill until you come out at the chalk pits. Look up to the escarpment on your right and you will appreciate how much of the hill has been taken out. Carry straight on into the woods on the other (south) side of the chalk pit and climb the path that curves round to the top of the hill. You pass another dizzyingly deep chalk pit on your left. Don’t get too close to the edge! Bear round to the right and you will see the fenced in reservoir atop the hill. The 3 bronze age bowl barrows are at the NE corner of the reservoir, and the enclosure is just to the NE of the barrows.

Directly opposite the Standing Stones Hotel the main road cuts across the edge of a large mound (HY31SW 24 at HY30251165). In 1946 this oblong mound, aligned N/S, measured 55 yards by 46 (subsequent ploughing is said to have reduced the area covered) and varied from 11-15’ in height. In the 19thC a cutting on the north side showed it to be based upon a likely moraine. Presently it is surrounded by a two yard wide ditch, possibly revetted in part, with further ditches/banks parallel to this. When the owner cut into the east end in 1891 he found a 2’ 6” square 10’ 6” long stone-paved passage leading to a 10’ diameter circular chamber which prior to collapse was probably some seven feet high. Presumably this is the putative NE ‘entranceway’ on the 2001 geophysics (another such was noted at the south side i.e. facing away from the road). A couple of depressions atop the debris were thought to be side-chambers, however there is no mention of any being found in the 1893 update. By then the chamber had been cleared (J.W.Cursiter 2-line summing up in “Programme of Excursion and Illustrated Descriptive Guide to the Places to be Visited in the Western and Northern Islands and Coast of Scotland” by R.Cochrane 1899). The floor was formed of two masonry courses. Side walls and stone pillars supported a roof of large flagstones, the principal one some 2’ thick, then between it and the covering mound the builders placed “safe stones”.

One of these stones in the wide-spaced ring had fallen – Jane and I resurrected it, appropriately enough, on Easter Saturday. The method we used might not have been the same as that of the ancients, and was definitely not approved by the HSE. Jane lifted the stone from between her legs, as I shoved it from behind, until it was virtually up her fundament. Interesting interpretation of phallic rocks. We packed its base with smaller stones, and left it balancing.

In contrast to Ffon y fawr, this monolith is very solid, stocky and rounded. Could there be an allusion to male and female within the landscape due to the placing of this pair of stones? No time, and too tired to walk up to it to discover more.

This stone points in very phallic style towards the Conwy valley. There wasn’t time to get much closer than a squint from the wall side, due to the weather conditions, but thinking about it now, I would like to see how it lines up with Cae Coch, which is very different.

After the arresting Kate and I had visited Maen-y-Bardd last year, I was a tad frustrated to discover there had been much more to see in this spectacular setting. Most importantly, I was keen to discover the ‘Greyhound Kennel’ (many North Walian tombs are given this title), or Rhiw Burial Chamber on this visit. The night before, a careful note of the OS grid reference had been made in order we could find it speedily. Great idea, but somehow on the day I left it in the car in my excitement to see all these wonderful sites.

After nearly bursting several blood vessels going the wrong way up the hill, I thought to get the Gwynedd guide out. Frances Lynch’s comprehensive notes gave us guidance, and shortly after, Moth expertly spotted it next to a blasted hawthorn.

This was lovely also – much of the mound is intact, and there is a beautifully preserved row of ceremonial stones leading up to the chamber. This is reminiscent of Arthur’s Stone in the south Walian Borders. The chamber itself appears to be set into the hillside, rather than part of a man-made mound, but as Kate pointed out later, it might well be the case that the hillside has evolved round it – it is 5,500yrs or so old, after all. Erosion may have engulfed it somewhat. It is a cracking chamber, not obvious from the road, but a fun one to discover.

Despite the dense cloud promising rain at any time, I was relieved when Jane agreed to meander down the Roman road which cuts through the Rowen complex of megalithic structures. Moth walked along the raised field bank, and it was delightful to hear them both cry out in unison as they spotted Maen-y-Bardd. It has that effect; I challenge anyone not to say “Oh wow!” or just “Oh!” upon seeing it for the first time. Tired, and totally fed up with walking, Jane immediately nested inside it, and was promptly re-energised. Not surprising. The Iced Gem of Dolmens looked just as gorgeous and magical, irrespective of the rapidly lowering skies. Moth and I took lots of photos, before seeking out Rhiw Burial Chamber

We arrived at the Druid’s Circle to find Jane looking cold and fed up, sheltering next to the largest stone. The walk had pushed her to the limits of her endurance, so she sucked on a Camel to recover, and be better able to take in the magnificent setting. Moth was blown away by the place, and I was a little disappointed the weather was so overcast; I had very much wanted to see it in sunshine. Just as we left, my wish was granted – sunshine broke warmly through, transforming the setting, and helpfully illuminating Great Orme into the bargain. By this time, Jane had steeled herself for the ramble back to the car, so didn’t return, as Moth and I did, to make use of the precious sunlight. That was a shame, because when the sun lights the whole of the coastline and the stones, it’s an inspiring sight.

We also took a swift peek at Circle 278 and ?Monument 280.

Jane plodded on as Moth and I took photos of this ever-so-cute tiny stone circle. A gang of luridly-clad mountain-bikers tore down from the Druid’s Circle and halted next to us while waiting for a straggler. They passed comment that we were much like train spotters in our hobby. Not unlike like mountain-bikers then, Moth sagely observed, as the straggler caught up, and the fluorescent numpties pedalled away furiously.

As our initial searching had been confounded by many erratics, the general consensus was that this might not be a very spectacular site. After hoping for something reasonably impressive, I was beginning to think this would be a few short, squat, piddly stones running in a line for 10-20 feet.

Thankfully, this wasn’t the case – Moth finally located approximately 100yds of Bronze Age handiwork, made from substantial stones, leading towards the Irish Sea. What a treat for a stone row virgin.

As we took photos and generally prepared for lunch, a hale and hearty woman approached, enquiring as to whether this was the stone row. We informed her it was, and she asked if we were students of archaeology. I replied that we were Modern Antiquarians, so in effect students of archaeology, but really just megalithic enthusiasts. She explained that she was an ex-midwife who led walking parties, and was walking Great Orme to suss out a new route, with places of interest like the Roman well by the roadside above the stone row. We suggested she check out Lletty’r Filiast.

Amongst all the erratics, the uniformity of the stone row was very clear, and picnicking above them, I wondered what their purpose had been. Interestingly, they faced north-ish, so presumably the setting sun would not have been visible at their end. Could they have been a ceremonial route, or something connected with shipping? Moth said they reminded him very much of Dartmoor stone rows, and on our return to the car, we had an interesting discussion about the possibility of Cornish tin miners being drafted in to work the Copper Mines, bringing with them new customs and traditions.

‘The Lair of the Greyhound Bitch’. Appropriately enough, the house next door had a yard full of dog shit and a pack of hounds who barked long and loud on our arrival. In addition, the throb of bitchin’ rap emanated forth – rather distracting in the otherwise secluded and peaceful setting of this small dolmen.

Unfortunately, the diminutive chamber is crumbling slowly away, much like a piece of Cheshire cheese. Enough remains to reveal what a charming structure it was, and happily, it is obviously looked after, as a helpful tourist information board is stationed nearby. The puddingy stone put me in mind of Carreg Samson, although there was no variation in the stones used here.

With its capstone in place, it would probably have appeared more dramatic, but sadly this broke in three or four pieces a while ago, and the chunks now lie where they fell. Remarkably, although access is very easy via the solid purpose built ladder at the foot of ‘Cromlech Road’ (big help, that), the site is very clean and tidy. I expected it to be ‘The Lair of the Burberry Chavs’, but there was not an empty bottle of White Lightening in sight.

Moth and Jane reckon that in its hey-day, Lletty’r Filiast would have been a similar size to Hetty Peglar’s Tump, which mean it would have been a seriously important site. Its position so close to the Copper Mines (just a few hundred yards above), is also interesting. It wasn’t as dramatic as I had hoped, but pleasant. At least Jane was bewitched, finding herself reluctant to leave.

Follow the footpath up to the right from the gate hole, turn right into a brambly snicket, then left, and stay against the hedgerow until passing into a small wood. There are footpath markers to assist. You will be able to see this intriguing chamber silhouetted against the sky-line. In your eagerness to get up close to the monument, which forms the edge of two raggedy barbed-wire fences, take two seconds to locate the kissing gate 50 feet up to the right at the edge of the wood; using it is infinitely easier than scrabbling through tetanus-loaded wire.

This secret, compact dolmen – the only one of the Conwy valley’s portal dolmens sporting the customary high portal stones – looks down a tranquil bend in the Conwy valley, towards Llandudno and Great Orme. Although compact, it is deceptively huge from a distance, resulting in the viewer feeling a little surprised on arrival. What is most certainly huge, however, is the capstone. It is utterly gigantic. Despite the fact it has slipped down on the northern side, enough space remains to see the interior of the chamber. It is possible to wriggle inside, which I thought of doing until noticing how the capstone is held in place. (See pictures). Frances Lynch in CADW’s publication Gwynedd says this is not for the squeamish. Quite right she is too – I didn’t fancy the idea of being crushed by a ten-ton capstone, albeit an appropriate way for a Modern Antiquarian to perish. With my wide beam-end, the dislodging of rocks one way or another was sure to occur. When the arresting Kate saw the pictures the next day, she said “Well, at least it would give you an idea of how it feels to be a grain of wheat under a quern stone.”

Although I was initially a tad disappointed in this site, it has stuck in my mind, and on reflection, I enjoyed it very much. It does have something about it which lingers in the psyche. I liked the remaining portal uprights, and the solidity of the site. I imagine if there are bluebells in the wood, it will look most agreeable throughout May. We would have stayed longer – Jane could have made a fab painting of the river vista – but a chilly wind chased us away to the next site.

Another effective method the arresting Kate employed to seduce me. She brought me here on a glorious blue, russet, and gold autumn day, and blew me away. This place is so beautiful, peaceful and completely breathtaking.

When Jane, Moth and I visited, a misty, slightly overcast sky greeted us, and lifted as we left – typically. Nonetheless, a superb view of Snowdonia was afforded which demonstrated beautifully why the ancestors chose this site. As ever, the placing of a Severn-Cotswold long barrow in the heart of North Wales fascinated me. Who were the builders? Were they a group of people who moved up from the south? Were they a tribe who had taken on different belief systems to the others prevalent in the vicinity? Were they traders? There are no such barrows anywhere else up here, so I assume this must be the case. Or could it have been the last one to have been built before that set of beliefs changed? Or is the only one that has survived?

Whatever the reasons, this is a fabulous structure, definitely worth a visit. The remaining capstone (on the western chamber), is awesome, and it is easy to imagine how the thing must have looked when originally built. The post and panel work inside the chambers is a joy to behold, and even though it has been extensively restored, remains of the original dry walling can be seen in the lower courses of the eastern chamber. 5,000 year old dry walling. Cool.

We enjoyed a good half hour here, joined briefly by two other visitors, and watched by many fluffy sheep.