Latest Fieldnotes

Visited 14th May 2014

Wideford Hill holds a special place for me, I must have more fieldnotes from this place than any other ancient site, its combination of fantastic views, impressive construction and overall sense of presence, makes it a one of Orkney’s best chambered tombs.

I see the tomb perched on its hill often as I pass by on the Stromness to Kirkwall road, and I always make a point of visiting here at least once each time we are in Orkney, and as today, I like to walk from the house in Kirkwall out of town on the Old Finstown Road, before ascending the hill to the cairn, like a pilgrimage of sorts.

The day is filled with beautiful sunshine today, the hill a beacon ahead of me as I walk. It’s a good hours trek from Kirkwall, although of course you can drive and park near the top of the hill if you want easier access. The path that curls around the flanks of the hill which leads to the tomb is dry today after the recent clement weather, but at times can be difficult going, its peaty, muddy surface often rough, so a good pair of boots is advisable. The old gate with the woollen ‘offerings’ mentioned by Carl is still next to the path, and just beyond in the distance you can make out the fence that surrounds the tombs enclosure.

As you circumvent the hill the views open up over the Wide Firth looking out down Mainland, with Finstown spread out around the bay, and the sister tomb of Cuween hill just visible on the horizon if you know where to look.

The layered wedding-cake like construction of the tomb stands out, the stonework exposed and giving a fine example of how these corballed tombs would look beneath their grassy mounds. Checking on the ‘municipal’ torch (how many of these would find ‘doon sooth’?) I’m pleased to see it’s all present and correct, and in working order, although once I slide open the rooftop entry hatch the bright morning sunlight floods the chamber and its clear no torch will be needed today.

Inside the cool damp exterior I sit and soak up the vibes. The corballed stonework is exquisite and two low entrances enticingly open into side chambers. Today I’m content just to sit in the main chamber, not wishing to get myself too muddy by squeezing into the side cells. It was in one of these cells that I experienced what I can only describe as a presence, the first time I was ever here some fifteen years ago. As I sat inside the chamber in total darkness, I became convinced there was someone else in there. I could even hear their breath in the silent chamber, but as I reached out, all I could feel were the cold chamber walls. It didn’t feel at all threatening at the time, quite the opposite in fact, and I felt a real sense of welcome and belonging, and since then I’ve always felt Wideford Hill was a special place.

After a while I emerge back into the sunlight, and sit atop the cairn to write my fieldnotes. Mainland seems stretched out before you and it’s easy to recognise why this was designated as a sacred space. It still feels that way now, come and visit and experience some of Orkney’s magic for yourself.

Visited 8.6.14

Had a quick look on the way to Pentre Ifan.

You can see what is left of the barrow from over the hedge; at the top of the bank next to the road. It has now been reduced to a very minor ‘bump’ in the field.

Don’t bother going out of your way to see this.

COFLEIN state:
A ploughed-down but otherwise undisturbed barrow, 26m in diameter and 1.2m high (not now it isn’t!). Said to have been strewn with quartz in 1964.

Visited 7.6.14

When in this part of Pembrokeshire a visit to St Govan’s well and Chapel is a must.

The last time I came here Dafydd was a baby and Sophie not even a twinkle in the eye. Karen had visited here years before me.
Where does the time go?

This time all four of us headed down the steep stone steps from the car park to the chapel. Sophie didn’t like the inside as it was too dark for her and she was a little frightened – not like her. The little well was dry.

We walked out the other side and were at the top of the rock strewn beach. I had a quick look at the tiny stone cell and scrambled down to the rocky shoreline. The waves were crashing in and I made my way towards the arch in the cliffs on the right. It was a surreal experience standing near one side of the arch and watching the water hurtling towards me from the other side – before quickly moving out of the way!

The sky was blue overhead and the gulls were shrieking from their nests, high up on the cliff face. Dafydd was happily throwing stones into the water whilst Sophie and Karen watched from higher up the beach.

St Govan’s is a special, unique place. It is one of those sites that everyone should visit at least once in their life. Once visited, never forgotten.

A view from the road 8.6.14

On our way home after visiting Pentre Ifan we opted to travel along the B4329 through the lovely Preseli national Park. This gave me the opportunity to have a quick for the Penlan standing stones along the way.

The minor road running past the stones is very narrow with no parking or passing places. As is common in this part of the world the banks either side of the road are very high, with a hedge running along the top. I have often wondered why the hedgerows are like this in Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire.

The two stones next to each other on the northern side of the road are the easiest to spot, although you have to climb to the top of the bank to see them. There is no public access to the stones so a ‘sneak’ visit would be in order if you wanted a closer look. Something I didn’t have time to do. As far as I could tell the feeding trough is no longer between the stones.

Continuing a short distance along the road I (eventually) spotted the solo stone on the opposite side of the road. Again, you have to climb up the bank and it is trickier to see as it is next to a hedgerow. At first I couldn’t see it but the sun came out and it became more pronounced, previously it blended into the hedge. Again, there is no public access to the stone.

The stones are certainly worth looking out for if you are in the area but you will need to be able to climb the bank to see them. There are good views out along the valley to the south-east.

Visited 8.6.14

Directions:
When you see the sign for St Elvis Farm on the A487 turn down the track to the parking area. From here it is only a 15 minute walk to the burial chambers.

I had wanted to visit this site for a long time (it was ‘always on my mind’) and as I was in Pembrokeshire I knew that it was ‘now or never’.

Karen wasn’t interested (she can be a ‘hard headed woman’ at times) so she waited in the car whilst myself, Dafydd and Sophie headed towards the dolmen which was ‘way down’ the farm track. Despite previous reports the track was dry and free of mud so my ‘blue suede shoes’ didn’t get dirty.

In the distance we could hear a dog barking which left them ‘all shook up’.
I reassured them that it was only an old ‘hound dog’.

Dafydd complained that Sophie was making too much noise and wanted ‘a little less conversation’ but I explained to him that ‘she’s not you’.

On the way we saw a dead young fox which (unsurprisingly) the children took great interest in. Doing what children do they started to poke the poor animal with a stick. I told them to stop and ‘don’t be cruel’.

We arrived at the burial chambers and entered through the wooden gate.
From the outside the wooden fencing made it look like a ‘jailhouse rock’.

A couple of farm workers looked at us with ‘suspicious minds’ and this caused us to do some ‘rubberneckin’ but nothing was said. After all, there is a public right of way.

***

Seriously, this is a great place to visit.
The two capstones are quite large. One was covered in a dark green/black moss whilst the other had a foxglove and a small pretty purple plant growing on its surface. There are quite a few large stones scattered around in the vicinity.
I wonder how many/if any originally came from the dolmen?

If you are heading towards St David’s this is well worth stopping off to see

Thank you very much…………………………..!

The cheap car challenge for the day was to visit Kilmartin and end up at The old man of Storr on the isle of Skye. More specifically for the Kilmartin area I wanted to get to the burial chamber at Poltaloch and back up here to Dunadd, it had been so long my archived pictures of the place showed that it had been nearly ten years. So here we go again.

It was about 8am, new (dry) socks for the kids from the garage, sigh and tut.
Eric and Luke shot up the hill with the energy and exuberance reserved only for young children. We practically kidnapped Luke to bring him with us, the poor kids never been to Scotland, the only time he’s left England is with us. I’m not sure what he makes of it all.
The first feature reached is the big rock cut, paved entrance, it is very impressive, to say the very least.
Once through the narrow gully it opens out into the lower courtyard. Far right is the well and it’s cover stone, and some low tumbled walling can be seen in places. Naturally we keep on going up.
Just below the highest part of the fort is the rock art.
Though rock art is maybe not the right phrase for all of it. The ogham inscription was hard to read but from what I could read was something about the rightful king of Scotland would be a Postman from Crewe.
The foot carving, of which there are two, one very faded, one obvious, it is this obvious one that apparently the king would place his shod foot in to be inaugurated, or something like that. Sounds a tad fallacious to me. The Boar, is pretty faded, only the lower half, the legs and belly of the beast are still clear.
Then it’s up to the citadel, or upper courtyard, they don’t know which, or it could be a yoga space, maybe even kite flying arena, honestly, even the information board is unclear.
What is clear is the view of the surrounding countryside, twisting rivers going off to meet Loch Crinan and the open sea, rocky hillsides with higher peaks peeking over them. It is a very nice place, when i’m king I shall rehouse my dynasty there, as is my divine right.
Until then I’ll go and have a look at some rock art, Achnabreck I think, not been there yet.

Visited 7.6.14

A weekend away in Pembroke – hurrah!

On the way I just had to show the children this wonderful site.
This is one of those places that you know you will return to again and again.

We parked as before and before long we were heading down the path towards the burial chamber. Since my last visit the path had become quite overgrown in places and the nettles were winning the battle with my bare legs!

I lifted the children over the fence and we soon at this magical place.
If there are such things as magical places – this is one of them.
Particularly on the weekend when the quarry is closed and all that can be heard is birdsong and running water.

The babbling water of the stream, the boulders and trees heavily laden in a matting of green moss. And of course the wonderful burial chamber itself. It was damp here today; judging by the amount of moss around I imagine this is the norm.

I could go on and on about this place but I won’t.
All I will say is if at all possible please try to visit.
You won’t be disappointed.
Even little Sophie (not renowned for her prehistoric interests) asked ‘can we come back again one day?’
What better endorsement could you wish for?

Visited 7.6.14

Directions:
From the nearby Dry Barrows continue about 1 mile west along the B4320.
The barrow is near a building on the left (southern) side of the road.

There is room to pull in at the field gate and from here you can see the barrow.
It is now little more than a ‘bump’ in the field.

COFLEIN state:
A barrow, 28m in diameter and 1m high, opened in 1927 revealing a large ‘sub megalithic’ cist set into the old ground surface, containing an extended skeleton accompanied by a bronze knife/dagger’.

Visited 7.6.14

Directions:
From Corston Beacon barrow continue for about ½ mile west along the B4320.
Take the first turning on the right (north) and the barrows are in the field on your right.

There is room to pull in at the field gate and from here you can see the barrows.
Of the four barrows shown on the map only one remains of any significance.
The other three are minor ‘bumps’ in the field.

COFLEIN stste:
‘A barrow, 35m in diameter and 1.7m high in 1975. (More like 1m high now) One of a group of four’

Visited 7.6.14

Directions:
From Pembroke take the B4320 west. After about 1 mile the road goes through a wood. On the left hand side is an entrance track to a disused quarry – park here. Walk up the muddy track and then head up the short but steep rise to your right. Be careful not to get too close to the edge of the quarry – it’s a long way down!

The defended enclosure (O/S has it marked as a fort) is at the top, as you would expect. The walk is steep but pleasant through the trees. Judging by the number of paths through the trees and the rope swings this is clearly a place where children play – although I had the place to myself today. I even found a home made bow and arrow, I remember making those when I was a nipper!

Of more concern was a spent shotgun cartridge I saw lying on the ground. Probably left by the same people who left several beer cans at the bottom of the slope. Still, this is South Wales and it seems compulsory to leave litter left to spoil things.

There is a bank/ditch on the southern and western sides, well over head height when stood in the ditch. They are not too easy to access/view due to the overgrown nature of the site. Nothing in the way of views due to the trees.

Not a great site by any means but the woods are pretty and if you happen to be in Pembroke and looking for something to do there are worse places to visit.

COFLEIN state:
‘A sub-rectangular enclosure, 60m by 48m, set on the N end of a spur, defined by steep natural scarps to the NW and NE, and elsewhere by a bank and ditch. 150m to the NW, across a minor stream valley, is the larger Quoits Wood enclosure’

Visited 7.6.14

Directions:
From Pembroke take the B4320 west. The burial chamber can be seen in the middle of a field to your left just before the road takes a sharp turn south towards Castlemartin.

As Kammer has said, there is no public access to the chamber and it is two fields over. I couldn’t see the unfriendly message or barbed wire on the field gate but you are sure to be seen if planning a ‘sneak’ visit.

Best bet is to either ask for permission (from whom I don’t know) or do what I did and have a look from the road. Even without the aid of binoculars the fallen/slanting capstone was easy enough to see.

Worth a look when in the area.

Strangely, perhaps, this henge is exactly 100 meters south of the Ballymeanoch two stone row, From the stones, the only sign of this henge is the grass is slightly longer, the ground slightly rougher, it’s not much to go on. Even when stood right next to the henge all you might say is what are these stones for ?
The henge is very slight, nay vague, almost not there at all.
But from what I could see, it had entrances at the north and south. The central area is occupied by a cairn with a still mostly covered cist. Apparently two other cist burials were inserted into this cairn. Four large stones can be found around the henge bank.
It is not a Super henge, but it is a super henge.

I started my Ballymeanoch wander at the kerb cairn in the corner, but to be honest, my gaze was forever turning to the stones. Four big stones in a row, graded in height, the largest at the south. The middle two stones have cup and ring marks carved upon them. Between the two smallest stones is a bit of a gap as if a stone were missing. The tallest of the four is twice my height making it about twelve feet up to the top of it’s craggy tip.
As if that wasn’t good enough two more standing stones lie about fifty feet from here in parallel to the four. Both of these stones are much taller than me but less than twelve feet. All of them are slim, pointy and mossy on their higher slopes.
So, whats it all about then? I could see them being used to measure something in the sky, or perhaps part of a ritual avenue, but to be honest, i’m as perplexed and vexed as I was the first time I came here.
Oh well, i’m sure the vague, unspecific henge just over there will make it all become very clear. Wont it?

In the corner of a field no more than two hundred yards from Duncraigaig chambered cairn, is this little kerb cairn. Its about six meters across and up to about a dozen stones stand up and down around it’s circumference. Four stones on the east side could be said to be contiguous, you couldn’t even get a razor blade between them. Sorry, that’s a lie, but they do look good and it makes me crave a fully intact version. Two large fallen stones are taking a nap, one of them has broken in two the larger part of which has a hole bored through, bored with a diamond tipped circular saw no doubt.

The views are modest yet exquisite, low rocky hills are to the east, south and trees block a presumed view of fort and sacred hill Dunadd. North is the big Duncraigaig cairn, and the rest of the megalith heaven Kilmartin Glen. But mostly it’s west and the almost on top of us Ballymeanoch standing stones. Beyond them the the River Add and the Crinan canal empty into Crinan loch.
It’s a brilliant little spot, and the cairn is worthy of
some time spent here, but man are those big standing stones overpowering. Not to mention the henge over there.

This is the first site of the day, it’s about 6am, it’s not cold, but the dew laden grass is going to soak the kids feet quickly, they have gone on before me. By the time I’ve stones under my feet, they have been round, over and in the chambered cairn, so off they go to the Ballymeanoch stones.
Low mists swirl around over the river and Loch Crinan south and east from here. The hills cut a fine and striking silhouette against a light blue sky, a Blackbird sings loudly in a nearby tree and Swallows swing low over the field next door. It’s going to be a good day, if a very long one.
The huge mass of stones is a high one, well over my head, so I climb to the top and find the higher of the two cists. It’s not quite able to accommodate me, so I stick the camera in and take a couple of photos.
At the cairns north west edge is a small collection of stones that could be something, a small kerb cairn perhaps. On its south side is the lower chamber, it does not look like a cist, like the one on top, this is big enough to get into.
As first site of the day this is a good way to go, I would probably drive all the way across Wales to see something like this cairn, but in the Kilmartin Glen it’s just a minor player in a much bigger game.

Spotted this ‘split’ standing stone while looking for the Pulcin an Chairn wedge tomb. It stands in the middle of a field along the same single track road as the wedge tomb. Haven’t been able to find any additional information about this site. Hopefully will be able to add something to this brief field note later.

Visited 18th May 2014
Dunbeg Fort is closed to visitors at present because of the serious damage caused by the winter storms. Visitors are allowed to walk down to it but no access to the site – it is clear to try and enter would be dangerous. The woman in the audio-visual centre told us that engineers had recently undertaken a structural survey and there is hope that some of the damage can be repaired with limited access allowed later in the summer.
The following information is taken from the audio-visual leaflet.
“Dunbeg Fort is a small but impressive example of a promontory fort but its location makes it even more dramatic. Built on a sheer cliff, its archaeological excavation was undertaken in the late 1970s. There are two major phases of occupation recorded. The first phase was around the 8th and 9th centuries AD. Clusters of stake holes to the north and south of the fort indicated the presence of wooden tripods for supporting pots and skins over the fire. Analysis of the occupation debris suggests a diet mainly of pigs, sheep and goats with some cows.
The second phase of occupation lay above the first phase and was around the 10th and 11th centuries AD. It was concentrated on two hearths in the centre of the Beehive (clochan). The bones of sheep, pig, deer, birds and fish were also recorded. But the excavation results did not reveal what the site was used for; it may have been defensive, or used for ritual or even status purposes, or it may simply have just been lived in.”

Some lovely examples of clochans/beehive huts nearby on the hillside.

The first time I came up here I was with both my kids, the wife stayed at the bottom, I don’t remember much about the fort only that it was winter. Going back down the south steeper side, holding hands, my son was pulling us down, my daughter pulling us back and me trying to keep us all upright and not falling to our deaths, despite the obvious dangers were all laughing really hard, the wife said she could hear us laughing from the bottom. That was all a million years ago now though, I miss those uncomplicated go for it days.

This time I’m on my own and I’m coming at it from the opposite side, the northern route is longer but half as steep, my sciatic leg thanked me profusely.
As I start the walk there is a couple of older American ladies right behind me, I decide that I cant let them overtake me so I put my foot down as it were and leave them behind, but slowly. It was nice to know that I can still out pace old ladies.
As I gain some height I can see that the hills are liberally strewn with inattentive walkers. I say inattentive because as I reach the top and enter the fort I see no one else all the time I was there, literally dozens of walkers pass by on the path but not a one bothers to come up and see whats what. Whilst that’s good for my visit, I feel sorry for the fort, it deserves some attention, and I feel sorry for the inattentive walkers who are out and about but still not getting their value for petrol money.

I pass through the large obvious entrance and make my way up to the top and sit for a while enjoying the views and the wind in my hair. From up here I can see the Mid Cheshire ridge twenty five miles away, with Beeston castle at its northern end and Maiden castle further south, the inter-connectedness of all the forts round here is almost mind blowing.
From the top I make way down to the earthworks, which are very substantial. Then follow them round, something which ive found just has to be done. On the eastern side they fade away to almost nothing a wall marks the route any fortifications would have followed. The south side is much the same only with no wall. I sit here for another while noting the route down me and the kids took last time, nostalgia huh ? who needs it.
The earthworks slowly rise up again as I approach the east facing entrance. I saw my first Swallow of the year here, which is better than last years behind McDonald’s, and heard my first Cuckoo of the year too, do they really say “Cuckoo”? because they seem to be sticking up two fingers to the natural way of child rearing leading me to presume that their call is really more like “F***you”.
Passing the entrance I move along inside the deepest ditch, boggy ground with the odd boulder here and there. Up the bank I sit once more amid the heather, very close by I can hear a birds wing flap just once, it is very close but it doesn’t betray it’s position, now that’s parenting.
The heather is very comfy to sit upon. A better seat than this I have not seen in all of Clwyd. Over the bank in front of me is the near but distant Pennyclodiau hill fort, the largest in these hills. I spend quite some time sitting hear, the Swallows are shooting about all around me diverting their streak at the last moment when they see me. Nature abounds.
But now time has gotten the better of me so I must trundle back down to the car park and resume my normal life. Juxtaposed the two parts of my life couldn’t be more different, unless I was a spy, super hero or astronaut.
A brilliant fort this one sadly overlooked by all except the attentive.

Visited 31.5.14

Directions:
See notes for the Rhiw Porthnant barrows. A short distance further north along the minor road. The barrow is on the right hand side.

This is an area of open moorland and you can park pretty much where you like on the verge. The barrow is only a short distance from the road.

COFLEIN state:
A barrow, 12.5m in diameter and 0.9m high

Visited 31.5.14

Directions:
See notes for the Rhiw Porthnant barrows. A short distance further north along the minor road. The barrow is on the right hand side.

This is an area of open moorland and you can park pretty much where you like on the verge. The barrow is only a short distance from the road.

COFLEIN state:
A barrow, 21.3m in diameter and 1.2m high

Visited 31.5.14

Directions:
From Llandrindod Wells take the A483 north. When you reach Llanbadarn Fynydd come off the A483 and take the minor road north towards the B4355 and Dolfor. The 3 barrows are next to a crossroads of minor roads just before you reach the B4355.

The most southern of the barrows (on the right hand side if the road) has the peculiar name of ‘Dicky’s Stool’. Who Dicky was and why he needs a stool I don’t know?
There is a public footpath which takes you to the barrow but it is very, very muddy. The top of the grass covered barrow is flattened. The barrow is easily seen from the road.

COFLEIN state:
22m in diameter and 1.4m high, disturbed to the south.

The other two barrows are next to each other on the opposite side of the road. Both are grass covered mound and had sheep/lambs on top. There is no public access to the barrows but, again, they are easily seen from the road.

COFLEIN state:
16.5m in diameter and 1.3m high / 17m in diameter and 1m high

This is a very rural location and I liked it here. It is only a short distance off the busy A483 but you could be a million miles away from it. I doubt there is much traffic along this road. Worth the minor detour if you happen to be in the area.

Visited 31.5.14

Directions:
Near the road on the northern side of Brompton Hall at the A489 / B4385 junction. It is to the right of the B4385 when driving north.

There is a handy field gate from which you can see the barrow.

It is a low grass mound next to a field hedge. It is approximately 0.5m high x 15m across.

Not worth going out of your way for.

*** Thanks to TSC for putting me right! ***

Visited 31.5.14

Directions:
From Newtown take the A489 east. When you reach the village of Kerry take the minor road north at the church. The barrows are immediately on the right hand side. There is easy access via a field gate. A public footpath goes right past the barrows.

These are two very large grass covered barrows. I am surprised they have not been reported on before?
I wonder where they get their strange name from?

The barrows are also very prominent from the main A489.

These are a very impressive pair of barrows and well worth seeking out when in the area.

COFLEIN state:
A pair of Bronze Age round barrows.
Barrow 1 = 50m x 40m x 3.6m high
Barrow 2 = 50m x 40m x 2m high

Visited: June 2, 2014

I decided to pay a visit to Tullos Hill again, and was encouraged to find that a new interpretation board had been erected, among other things, describing the archaeological investigations of recent years.

Specifically mentioned was Cat Cairn 2, though its location was not actually revealed. The photograph I’ve posted shows how the ring cairn is now well on the way to blending into its surroundings as the vegetation starts to overwhelm it.

Visited 31.5.14

Directions:
From Builth Wells take the A481 east. When you reach the village of Hundred House you will see a pub on your left. Opposite the pub there is a small public footpath sign and a metal gate. Go through the gate, across the field and through a second gate. The barrow is now visible to the right.

The centre of the barrow has been scooped out and it has a large hawthorn tree growing out of the top of it.

COFLEIN state:
A barrow, 22m in diameter and 1.7m high, opened in 1875, revealing disturbed urn fragments and burnt bone.

A second barrow lies next to the minor road running north of the pub but the land is rough, open moorland and I was unable to spot the barrow.

COFLEIN state:
A mound, 7m in diameter and 0.3m high, possible the barrow recorded to have produced 2 urns before 1905.