Latest Fieldnotes

A rare event – the solstice falling on the weekend and no cloudless sky forecast!

I got up out of bed at 3.45am and (fallowing a quick cuppa) was out of the house by 4.00am. Driving past Tinkinswood I noticed two cars parked so knew there were people there. Was there anyone at St Lythan’s? In a word – no.

I parked up and took the short walk from the gate towards the dolmen. The grass was heavy with dew and my boots were soon sodden. The weather was beautiful. Not a hint of a breeze, clear blue skies and no sign of the ‘wild dog’ warned about by Evergreen Dazed!

I looked all around the chamber before standing inside to watch the sun come up. The strange thing is how much warmer it felt inside the chamber compared with outside. As the weather has been so hot over the last few days it must have heated the stones up which then radiated the warmth back out when the air cooled. It really was quite noticeable the difference in temperature.

At this point I realised that the sun would be coming up from behind trees, something I hadn’t expected. I was hoping for a clear horizon. Perhaps the people at Tinkinswood knew something I didn’t? I decided to head to there instead.

I squeezed in next to the other cars and quickly made my way across the field. Two people were stood at the entrance of the chamber and a third chap was stood on top of the capstone. It looked like he had been there all night as a tent had been set up. We acknowledged each other and I stood and watched and waited. The sky was starting to brighten and I knew it wouldn’t be long before the sun came up. However, much to my dismay, the sun was going to come up right behind an electricity pylon – nightmare! This certainly wasn’t how I wanted to watch the solstice. I decided the only thing for it was to go back to ‘Plan A’ and rush back to St Lythan’s – I still had time to make it. Also, (no offence chaps) but it felt better watching on my own.

I arrived in time to watch the sun slowly rise behind the trees. The good thing is the trees filtered the brightness of the sun so I could comfortably watch it without hurting my eyes. After about 5 minutes the sun rose above the trees and it became too bright to look at. A short while later, two of the people I had seen at Tinkinswood arrived and we had a quick chat. One of them commented on how he was feeling cold. I suggested he warm up by standing inside the chamber!

Not unexpectedly, the sun did not line up with the entrance of the chamber but I wondered if it lined up with the winter solstice? If it did, there would be an unobstructed view of the sun coming up. Weather permitting, I will return to this lovely little dolmen at the winter solstice to see if it really does line up?

All in all, a good (if early) way to start the day. Now, where to watch the sunset from?

I’m fairly sure I came here on my last Skye trip, but I have no memory of it except sitting on the stone and wondering at the mountain view, nor do I have any pictures of it, perhaps I didn’t even know it was a chambered cairn, it might only have been a top place to sit and gawp.
It is I think understandable, I was probably just passing and honestly the first thing you think about when faced with this is not wow look a chambered cairn, it’s oooh look at those mountains, couldn’t you just take them home with you.
So whilst this site is not my primary concern on Skye, and seeing as I’m passing again, I’d be a bit of a Muppet if I didn’t stop off and take a closer second look.
It still doesn’t look much like a chambered cairn, but now that I know, I can see it, though the mountains are still too overpowering.
I did find one quite expansive spread where the cairn material can still be seen, but the kerb stones still look like random stones on a hillock, and the top stone is still a top place to sit and gawp.

Visited 17.6.14

This was the primary site I wanted to visit today and the main reason for having an early finish from work. After my earlier, somewhat disappointing visit to Lanmelin Woods, it was with great anticipation that I parked the car in the large car park overlooking the shimmering waters of the reservoir. The first thing I noticed was that the information board had been vandalised, one bin destroyed and the other overflowing with rubbish.
This is South Wales after all.
There was only one chap in the car park (bird watcher) and I said ‘hello’ (as you do in the countryside) as I headed up towards the bridleway opposite.
He ignored me – miserable bugger!
Unperturbed I carried on my merry way.

The track starts off being well made and not too steep but once you reach the last house, and go through the gate marked Grey Hill Common, the track becomes a path. From here the path becomes progressively narrower and steeper – although the views get better, out over the reservoir and beyond.

It is a 15 minutes walk from the car park to the top of the hill. Until reading TSCs notes I hadn’t realised that the stony soil at the top was the remains of a cairn. Great location for a cairn.

I had brought my previous direction notes with me but to be honest, at this time of year with everything in full growth, I didn’t find them much use.
Perhaps these are better directions for finding the standing stone and circle?
(Note – they cannot be seen from the path along the ridge of the hill)
Once you reach the top of the path and come out onto the top of the hill, take the path to your left. Follow this path for a couple of hundred metres until you pass (what appears to be) two small quarry pits – one each side of the path. A little further along the ‘main’ path you will see a ‘minor’ path heading off to your right – down the hillside and through the ferns/bushes/trees. Take this path and it will lead you straight to the standing stone and the circle just beyond.

10 minute walk from the top of the hill / 25 minutes from the car park way down below.

Despite the new growth the stones were easy enough to see. The inside of the circle was free of ferns etc. I had forgotten that the southern edge of the ring was made up of a continuous row of stones. The rest of the circle was more fragmented.

The tall outliner is a fairly impressive stone in its own right. Between the outliner and the circle I spotted several ‘suspicious’ looking recumbant stones. One in particular looked very much like a fallen standing stone. The small oak tree next to the circle had a couple of clooties tied to its lower branches.

What is most impressive about this site of course is the view.
Sweeping views over the River Severn, along the coast and out over to England. Flat Holm and Steep Holm just about visible in the summer haze.

The centre of the circle was free of ferns etc and, using my t-shirt and the leaning/fallen stone as a pillow, I lay down on the cool grass and watched the clouds drift by high above me. The sun was beating down and the surrounding ferns acted as a wind break. It was very warm and I nearly fell asleep. All was well in the world. A sense of contentment came over me. All my cares (for a while at least) ebbed away.

Before long however I had to rouse myself as it was time to pick the children up from school and return to the ‘real’ world. It is important that every now and again you get the chance to visit such a site and de-stress.
It is certainly cheaper than a psychiatrist!

Visited 17.6.14

A lovely sunny day and the chance of a half-day finish from work – result!

It has been a few years since I visited this CADW site and I was eager to return.
I parked, as before, on the verge near the entrance to Coombe Farm and made my way through the trees opposite. There is a large area to park in the trees but there are CADW warning signs that state you are not allowed to park here as it is private and in use by the farm.

Out the other side of the trees and over the wooden field gate. This is where things started to get tricky. The field was full of head high crop (rape I think?) so I skirted around the edge. Unfortunately the edge of the field was choked with chest high nettles – clearly no one had been this way for quite some time. It was difficult to hack my way through the nettles – particularly when wearing shorts – and they got the better of me a couple of times. Luckily there were plenty of dock leaves about!

I eventually reached the other side of the field and crossed through the woods. This was not only a lot easier but also a very pretty walk. The sun was shinning through the tree tops and the birds were singing. Once out of the trees I arrived at the field where the hillfort resides.

This time of year is not best suited to visiting this site. The hillfort is completely covered in wild grasses which are between waist and chest height. Despite this the banks and ditches are easy to make out; the outer bank is about 3m high (from the bottom of the ditch) whilst the inner bank is about 5m high (from the bottom of the ditch). From the top of the inner ditch you can see across most of the site.

Due to the long grass I didn’t bother exploring any further as I doubt I would have been able to see much. You would think that a CADW site (the public are encouraged to visit) would be better maintained than this. Better access is certainly required and a flock of sheep would do wonders to keep the grass down. A few sign posts would help too. Without an O/S map and a knowledge that it was here you would not find this place. I have previously raised these issues with CADW – why advertise / encourage people to visit a CADW site when the average person would never be able to find / access it? Predictably, the reply I had was less than satisfactory.

Still, I would recommend a visit by TMAers but best done in the winter months when the grass / nettles / crop wouldn’t be so much of an issue. For most people I would say you would be better off visiting the hillfort at Lodge Wood.
Easier to access and a lot more to see.

Visited 14.6.14

Directions:
Park in the lay-by at the end of the remaining stones of the Avenue.
There is a wooden sign directing you across the road and along the edge of a cultivated field. This takes you straight to the remains of the circle – 5 minute walk.

This is another one of those sites that I have wanted to visit for some time. When visiting Avebury I usually get sucked in by the lure of the stone circle / Silbury Hill / WKLB etc but this time I was determined to visit Falkner’s Circle – or more to the point, what remains of it.

I headed down the side of the field with Sophie and Dafydd in tow. The edge of the field was a sea of nettles and as all 3 of us were in shorts we had to tread carefully. On the way both myself and Sophie got our legs stung. Dafydd was far too sensible for this to happen to him as he beat the nettles back with a stick!

We soon reached the remaining stone from the circle which is next to a hedge and an old wooden gate post. Such were the mass and height of the nettles around the stone that we could see, but not touch the stone. A winter’s visit would be easier on the legs.

It may not be much to look at but it felt good to have finally visited this site.

Visited 14.6.14

Directions:
From Ogbourne St George take the minor road north which runs parallel to the A345. Shortly after passing Herdswick Farm you will come to a bridleway which runs both east and west across the road. The barrow is next to the road/bridle path on the eastern side of the road.

There is plenty of room to park at the bridle path. The hedgerow is thick but access to the field can be sought via the muddy bridle path.

Unfortunately I could see nothing of a barrow – just an overgrown corner of an otherwise ploughed field. The site is marked as ‘tumulus’ on the O/S map but E.H. have nothing to report. Neither do I. Not one to bother visiting I’m afraid.

Visited 14.6.14

Directions:
In the village of Alton Priors. Due south of Avebury.

Ever since my previous visit, when I didn’t get to lift the trap doors to see the sarsens, I had been itching to come back At last, today was the day.

Karen stayed in the car while myself, Sophie and Dafydd walked through the wooden turnstile (yes, it’s still there!) and across the field to the church. At first I feared we had had a wasted journey as the church doors were closed but it was relief to find they were closed but not locked. Earlier in the day I had visited the church in Tockenham (to see the Roman sculpture embedded in the wall) but that church was locked – not a problem as the sculpture is on the outside. A sign on the door said that the church is open during daylight hours from May to September and access can be had via a local key holder between October and April.

Unlike my last visit, this time the church was empty. I looked to my right and saw the first of the two trap doors – it is approximately 1m x 0.5m. The organ which stood on top of the trap door last time I visited had been moved over to a small recess. The handle to lift the door was broken but I was able to put a finger in a ventilation hole and prise the door open. There below me was a stone about the same size as the trap door, broken in two, with a hole drilled into one end.

The second trap door is near the step leading to the altar. This one is the larger of the two. Approximately 1m x 1m. The little brass handle made this a lot easier to open. Upon lifting the door the whole of the space is filled by the sarsen stone. Dafydd quickly jumped down onto the stone but Sophie wasn’t keen and wanted the trap door closed. I assume she was afraid of what may come up out of it!

I picked up a leaflet issued by the Church Conservation Trust which gave a detailed history and contents of the church but strangely makes no mention of the trap doors and sarsen stones. Perhaps the church is embarrassed of its origins?

As far as I know this is the only church that has trap doors in order to be able to see the stones. Top marks to the person who was thoughtful enough to put them in when laying the floor. This is an excellent place to visit and well worth the detour when visit Avebury. From the church you get a good view of the white horse and Adam’s Grave.

I am surprised more people don’t visit intriguing place.

It’s been nearly six years since my last stop off here at Kintraw, it is for my money one of the best sites in western Scotland. Sure there is only one standing stone, and the cairns are of the non get into type, but this is one of those places that seems to be greater than the sum of it’s parts.
I didn’t park in the parking place, again (inwardly groans), but by the first gate you come to when driving north, I did not get in anyone’s way.
Some standing stones are barely standing at all, but rather a tallish stone lump, some stones are hidden by long grasses, this one is neither. It is tall, pointy, slim and uber graceful, if I were a rich Victorian landowner wanting a folly, this would be my choice for a standing stone.
The menhir stands between two cairns, of vastly different types, the smaller of the two is a nice little kerb cairn, honestly, I’d have stopped off for just that one. But the other cairn is a whopping great pile of stones, with at least two large kerb stones still in place. Next to it is a fallen monolith, and perhaps others lie around as well. Over by the gate where I came in is another cairn, at least I presumed it to be a cairn, there are some suspicious looking big stones upon it.

But that is not all, this is, allegedly, an observatory, not for observing cars as they belt past, but the sun, moon, comets and returning space gods of old ( I made the last two up). Somewhere near here is a so called observation platform but time precluded a protracted wander round. One can almost imagine some kind of priestly old guys making pronouncements made upon observations, this is how science starts, where it ends I cannot guess, hopefully with all the greed heads going off planet.

Then there’s the view, it is gorgeous, not the every day gorgeous of other places ive been to, but world renowned gorgeous. The way the reflections shimmer on Loch Craignish and beyond the Loch the verdant green hillsides above Ardfern. Amid the village of Ardfern is a chambered cairn
themodernantiquarian.com/site/669/clach_an_tsagairt.html Ive not been there yet.
But all that is just to the west of here, there’s hills
with forts on and mountains behind them.

Kintraw, greater than the sum of it’s parts, I really must try and spend a longer time here next time.

New find from yesterday , a couple of miles into the hills from previously mentioned marked rock at NN 97877 37061 .

Visited 14.6.14

Whilst walking along the field edge to the see the remains of the stone circle I looked to my right and could (just about) make out two very low ‘bumps’ in the recently sowed field. The crop was only just sticking its head above the ground. If the crop had been any higher I would not have been able to make them out. Had I not been on so many ‘barrow hunts’ in the past (and become fairly good at spotting these minor ‘bumps’) I wouldn’t have spotted them in the first place.

I had no idea beforehand that they were there and so was feeling quite pleased that I had spotted them. Upon checking TMA I assume they are these barrows?

E.H. have this entry which could also explain what I saw:

Name: Bowl barrow 900m SSE of Green Bank
National Grid Reference: SU 10992 69202
The monument includes a bowl barrow situated 900m SSE of Green Bank at the south east end of a slight ridge, located on the north east facing slope of West Overton Down. The barrow has been reduced in height by cultivation and is only visible at ground level as a slight spread of chalk c.35m in diameter and 0.3m high. From previous records it is known that the barrow mound originally stood at least 1.2m high. Surrounding the mound is a quarry ditch from which material was obtained during its construction. This has been infilled over the years by the spreading of the mound, but will survive as a buried feature c.2m wide.

Visited 14.6.14

Directions:
In the village of Lockeridge – just south of the A4 – halfway between Avebury and Marlborough. Drive through the village and you will come to it.

It’s strange how your memory can play tricks on you. I remembered the erratic stones of Lockeridge Dene as being much larger and more plentiful. On this re-visit, after a number of years, I was slightly disappointed to find that my memory was indeed playing tricks. (No doubt that is why you should always have a second viewing when buying a house)

There are a couple of large stone here but most are much smaller than I remembered – and not as plentiful. At this time of year the thistles were much more prominent.

What was definitely different was that this time there was a herd of cows in the field which meant you had to be more careful where you stepped!

The cottage facing the fenced off ‘field of stones’ was as idyllic as I remembered.

Despite not quite living up to my memories, Lockeridge Dene is still a fine place to visit and you certainly won’t find the masses of visitors here that you do at Avebury.

You can park on the roadside and entrance to the field is via a wooden gate.
There is a small National Trust information sign.

I spotted these two cists on the map, and as they are en route to Kilchoan of Poltalloch I decided that a quick look was in order.
As I passed by first time I could see a slight stoney bump in the field, so on the way back I pulled over by the gate and hopped on over. There was sheep and lambs in the field but apart from a few half arsed bleats they mostly ignored me. The small bump I’d spied on my way past was indeed one of the cists, it wasn’t a particularly good one, just a small cairn with some stones poking out at odd angles. But the other cist, which was mostly hidden in long reedy grass was much better, maybe. One long capstone still seems to cover the whole thing, it looked intact, how cool.
So, easily seen from the road but the best one is hiding in the grass.

At Barsloisnoch lodge the road turns left at 90 degrees, we parked the car here, just. Then came the walk up the road to Kilchoan lodge, which was happily mainly uneventful. As you approach the latter lodge listen out for running water on your left, if you look over the hedge you can just see the burial chamber on it’s little hillock, or maybe not. Either way keep going til Kilchoan lodge is on your right, take the left hand turn and thar she blows.

Initially, it all looks a bit of a mess, a haphazard jumble of stones. But the more you move around it the more you can tell where things went, mentally putting things back together is something that has to be done and is a good thought exercise, or maybe not.
Greywether goes so far as to identify it as a Clyde cairn, but my knowledge only goes far enough to ascertain that it’s a burial chamber. But a good one.
If it wasn’t for the nearby lodge this would be a perfect place, as it is, the farm track is a muddy quagmire of a stinky mess, phone lines interrupt the delightful view, and a couple of other little niggles nag at me.
But that view is something though, looking down onto Loch Crinan with tree covered hills beyond and bigger mountains beyond them. A truly beautiful place, if not for the lodge, there’s not even any Freemasons.

Visited 14.6.14

I followed Chance’s directions and before too long was at the stone in question. The strange thing is it ‘felt’ like you were walking in the ‘wrong’ direction walking away from Avebury. The Avenue ‘feels’ right when walking towards the circle/henge – make of that what you will?

As stated, the marks are on the fence-side of the stone, about 1 foot above the ground.

I spotted 3 fairly deep groove lines and possibly another 3 slight grooves.

The grooves are not that obvious unless you are looking specifically for them.

Worth looking out for if walking along the Avenue.

Visited 14.6.14

As we were booked in on baby-sitting duties on Father’s Day itself, Karen suggested we go out for the day on Saturday instead. Sounded good to me.
‘What about a trip to Avebury for Father’s Day?’ suggested Karen
My reply was somewhat predictable!

I was amazed/horrified to discover that the National Trust now wanted £7.00 to park – yikes! Fortunately, as CADW members, it was free for us. The strange thing is it was free for coaches to park. How does that work?

After not paying this extortionate fee we walked along the path and headed straight for the National Trust café next to the museum. The weather was warm and fine and myself and Karen sat on the grass while the children played with the outside toys provided. Dafydd got into a debate with a woman over the rules of Connect 4 whilst Sophie ignored them both and put the discs in any order!

After finishing our drinks and ice creams we went into both museums to have a look around. There is a lot of interesting things to see and, again thanks to our CADW membership, saved even more money on entrance fees.

After this we decided to walk the full circuit of Avebury.

We soon came across a group (should that be a coven?) of ‘White Witches’. Two of the witches were hugging a stone whilst the others looked on. The head witch had a wooden pole with bells and ribbons on it. A bit further on we came across a family who were looking intently at a stone. Mum had her hands stretched out in front of the stone and was explaining to the others how she could ‘feel’ its power. Her teenage daughter looked on less than impressed!

We then came to the clootie tree; its lower branches festooned with ribbons and cloth and messages and trinkets. You certainly see some sights at Avebury! I guess that is one of the reasons it is such a special place?

After completing our circuit we went to the Red Lion for a meal. As the weather was so nice we sat outside. It was nice to be able to sit and drink and chat whilst looking over at some of the mighty standing stones.

A quick visit to the Henge Shop and it was then time to walk the Avenue.

Yes, Avebury is indeed a special place.

I’ve been past these two stones loads of times, but their location in a clearly farmed field had always put me off. But not this time, as ive learned that with in reason there is no such thing as trespassing in Scotland. So I parked in the lay-by close to the stones and dropped over the wall into the field. Followed the fence line down to a babbling brook, sorry a burn, crossed it and over another fence. I’m now in the same field as the stones but they’re hidden round the corner of a low hill.
Rounding the corner the stones are fifty yards distant, I sidle over trying not to attract attention. A chainsaw buzzes in the trees by the farmhouse.
I’m at the stones , I have a framed photo of these stones on my wall at home, but I cant quite see this in them, if you know what I mean, perhaps the photo is of the other two in the field north of here, before the other stone fell.
One stone is much taller than the other and pointy, whilst the lower stone has a flat top. Both stones have thick lichens on their higher reaches.
A lovely place with two fine examples of their genre, pity about the chainsaw.
On the way back I got closer to the cairn on the hillock top and zoomed a photo, little realising that the two fallen standing stones are right next to it. If I’d known, I’d have risked further non trespassing. Something that does not come naturally to an Englishman ,boxed and caged as we are.

I didn’t find this place easy to find at all.
After the depot on the forests edge I turned right instead of going straight on. Accordingly I ended up south of the fort Dun na Maraig on a track that takes you to Achnabeck farm house and standing stone(fallen).
We saw a sign for the rock art pointing into the trees, so it seemed all would be well. But somehow we ended up on what looked like a BMX track which took us to who knew where. But with map and compass and the high fort to get our bearings from we soon found our selves back on the right track. It took us straight to the rock art, Yaay.

I’ve been to Kilmartin several times now and seen the sign on the road pointing the way here but always I’ve gone off to see the stones instead. But not this time, it is high on the must see list.
To say that the rock art panels are extensive is to say that the kilmartin glen has some stones in it.
I wasn’t expecting it to go on so far, the first panel is quite massive, inclined at 45 degrees, perhaps. It has many interesting forms upon it. But round the corner and you can see just how much further it goes. I’m afraid to say it was at this point that the fence jumper in me got the better of me. Over we go, no one saw us, i think we got away with it. Needless to say we didn’t trample on the carvings, we always trod on grass.
One of the spirals is a meter across, huge, comparatively, it’s the overgrown mutant of the rock art spiral world.
Plus, there’s the view down into and across the valley, it’s a nice place, a very nice place indeed.
But just then the swarm came, the real monster of the highlands, those god damn midges. Eric earlier in the day had pointed out some midge hat net thingies, but I said we could cope without them. We couldn’t, they fair chased us away, there was more midges than there was vacant air, run for the hills, damn were already there.
The way back was more straight forward than coming.

Visited 17th May 2014

It’s only possible to get to Eday and back in a day on Saturdays, it’s also rather extortionately expensive to take the car. So since the island is only 8 miles in length, and I like a good walk, then an epic trek taking in as many ancient sites as I could in a day trip on the island was the plan. The downside of this of course is that time has to be carefully managed, one eye always on the clock lest you miss the ferry home (I had the misfortune to do that on island of Rousay once, and wasn’t keen to repeat it!). This also means you just don’t get long enough to spend at somewhere as good as Vinquoy.

Vinquoy is the highest point on Eday, and the mound atop the hill has been prominent for miles. This is the main event for me on today’s trip, so I’ve walked briskly nearly the whole length of the island, not having seen a single soul in the last three hours. After passing the wonderful Stone of Setter, I start on up the hill toward the tomb. Vinquoy hill, whilst not exactly a Munroe, is taking it out of me now, my rucksack feels as if the Trows have put a few rocks in it whilst I wasn’t looking, but as I approach the mound, atop the hill, the fine masonry of its entranceway enticingly visible, all the fatigue falls away.

I open the small gate which bars the passage, and stoop into the long, slightly curving entranceway. Wooden planks have been placed along the damp passageway to avoid having to shuffle through the mud, and soon I’m in the inner chamber and able to stand up. Inside it’s wonderful. A tall corbelled roof, and four side chambers, two to each side are visible. But it’s the atmosphere inside this place which is sublime. The warm red colour of the Eday sandstone used to construct the tomb, provides a russet glow, whilst ferns cascade from the upper masonry of the walls, and a strange white lichen almost glows in the gloom.

A circuar skylight admits some illumination, along with a small vent, which is visible from outside the tomb, sticking up like a little chimney atop the mound. This combines to give the inner chamber an airy quality, and lets the place breathe, much better than the stuffy concrete capped burial mounds you can see on Rousay, thank goodness Callender and Grant didn’t get their hands on this one!

I take a look into the side chambers, their entrances are very low, and trying to squeeze in with backpack, camera and assorted accoutrements, would leave me plastered with mud for the day, so I’ll leave that for next time, a valuable excuse to return, as if I needed one!
I spend quite some time inside. Vinquoy has one of the most special atmospheres of any tomb on Orkney. I think the combination of a well preserved internal structure, the warm coloured stone, and fantastic vegetation all combine to make it somewhere truly special. I really have to force myself to leave, it feels as if I’ve stumbled into one of those fairy entrances to the otherworld.

When I emerge back out I’m pleased to see that hundreds of years haven’t elapsed since I went in (although looking at the landscape, you’d probably be hard pressed to tell if they had, so unspoiled is it, only a handful of wind turbines letting you know you’re in the 21st century at all.) Looking around from atop the hill the views are great, the Stone of Setter still prominent below by Mill Loch, and islands scattered around to either side, a truly fantastic place. It may require some effort to get to, but Vinquoy stands there proudly with the best chambered tombs that Orkney can offer, it’s really something special.

Visited 17th May 2014

This is yet another impressive tomb on the Eday Heritage trail in the Vinquoy area, the yellow of the gorse on the hillside contrasting with the blue of the sea ahead, and the denuded remains of the tomb are clearly visible as you head towards the hill.

Dug into but still large, the remains of the bank around it giving an idea of the size it would once have been, which would have been a substantial mound by the looks of it, a shame that only an adumbration of its form remains. A southern entrance passage is still visible which opens into a narrow stalled chamber, a couple of orthostats still standing to show where one of the compartments was. The entrance passage is particularly interesting in that is offset slightly, by 10° from the axis of the chamber, so that it aligns directly with the nearby Stone of Setter.

Standing in the entranceway you get a great sightline of the standing stone, or rather you would if someone in the past hadn’t built a stone byre directly in the way! It’s still possible to see the alignment though as long as you move yourself off centre slightly.

I manage to find a small information sign about the tomb attached to a post, which had fallen over and now lies prone in the grass. This indicated that there would have been three pairs of stalls within the chamber, and that it was excavated by Farrer in the 1850’s, probably leaving it in the state it’s in today.

Although battered it’s got a certain charm. In some way it reminded of a truncated version of the Cairn O’ Get in Caithness, not sure why as it’s different in layout, it just had that ‘feel’ to it that some of the tombs you find in Caithness have, I also find it interesting that on the slopes of Vinquoy hill we have three very different designs of tombs, the stalled cairn of Braeside, double-decker special of Huntersquoy, and mini Maes Howe style Vinquoy. I wonder why that is? It’s almost as if this part of Eday was like a chambered tomb showroom, where you could pick out the style of monument you’d like for your own Neolithic community! Or it could be I suppose a very special place where different communities came together, each bringing their own style of tomb to the area.

I still think it’s a very special place, and a nice appetizer for the delights of Vinquoy just atop the hill ahead.

Visited 17th May 2014

On the slopes of Vinquoy hill an intriguing entranceway seems to open up into the heart of the hillside. Once it was a fine rare double-decker construction, but now all that remains of the upper chamber is a few stones to delineate the skeleton of the top part of the tomb.

There is a small information sign from the Eday Heritage Walk attached to a post nearby, which indicated that the upper chamber had a west facing passage, whilst the lower chamber faced to the east, just like Taversoe Tuick. It’s an intriguing design, and I wonder if there were any more tombs built like this which are lost to us now, or was this incredibly specialised design purely a local innovation amongst the folk of the northern Orkney’s? Farrer excavated here in 1855 but didn’t seem to come up with any answers, I wonder if there’s been any investigations since?

The sign, as well as prior fieldnotes, indicated that the lower chamber was generally flooded, but I’m ever optimistic, and there’s not been much rain on Orkney the past couple of weeks (well not much by Orcadian standards anyway!). When I bend down to take a look though it’s clear there is a fair amount of water in the passageway. Some tentative prodding with a nearby twig lets me gauge that there is about a good three inches of water in the interior, certainly high enough to come over my boots, and as I’d have to stoop I’d probably end up with sodden trousers too . It generally takes a lot to deter me on visiting somewhere, but lacking wellingtons, waterproofs a towel or change of clothes, the thought of tramping around for the rest of the day soaked to the skin and slowly becoming hypothermic is enough to stop me today.

I settle instead, like Ubik before me, for shining the torch down the passage to take a look. It’s swathed with ferns which grow along the entranceway, and the light of my torch reflecting off the water does little to drive away the shadows which occlude the chamber. According to the information sign it’s supposed to be a Bookan type of cairn, with compartments set around a central space. Although incredibly adept at dry stone construction, drainage obviously wasn’t the Neolithic Eday folks forte, and it’s frustrating not to be able to go in and check it out, as I’d love to see how similar the lower chamber was to Taversoe Tuick’s, but in the immortal words of Arnie ‘I’ll be back!’

What I am pleased to see is that there is no sign of any of the rubbish as mentioned in Ubik’s fieldnotes, although copious amounts of wool bob about on the water, so obviously sheep aren’t put off entering (or perhaps they just want a bath?). It’s an intriguing place, the entrance passage which seems to lead into the bowels of the earth reminds me a bit of the Rhiw burial chamber, and the placing on the slopes of the hill, with the Vinquoy tomb prominent on the horizon, and the Stone of Setter standing proud to the south, obviously mark this part of the island out as having some special significance.

Huntersquoy is an intriguing site on the Eday Heritage Trail, just don’t expect to get inside without a wetsuit!

Visited 14th May 2014

As anyone who’s read some of my previous fieldnotes will know I’ve got a pretty blasé attitude towards trespassing in order to visit an ancient site. Of course I always make sure never to cause any damage to anything and act in a considerate manner at all times, but there are some occasions where I would draw the line, and one of those is where I feel I would be infringing on someone’s privacy.

Quanterness is one of those cases, the mound of the barrow sitting in what looks like a small walled garden next to a farmhouse. In these situations there is nothing for it but to either settle for a view from a distance, or knock on someone’s door. I’ve settled for a distant view before, and as I’ve written in the past I never feel as if I’ve had a satisfying visit unless I’ve been able to set foot on/in or otherwise touch the site. I can’t really explain why, I just need to feel that sense of ‘connection’. Now being a somewhat reserved and unsociable type there’s nothing I dislike more than having to ask a stranger for permission to visit part of our cultural heritage, but knowing that in general the Orcadian folk are friendly, and not wanting to appear the worst kind of ferry-louper, I man up and approach the farmhouse, getting ready to try explain exactly why I would like to more closely examine the undistinguished grassy lump in their garden.

At this moment I’m saved by the arrival of the postman (no not the veteran TMA contributor!) who on attempting to deliver a parcel to said address quickly determines that there is no-one at home. The gate leading to the mound clearly stands open, so I decide to take a closer look, vowing that if I see anyone returning to the house I’ll come out and ask for their permission.

Through the gate the mound sits in a clearing surrounded by trees. Bluebells and wildflowers are scattered around the perimeter, and the dappled sun under the branches casts a warm light over the area. It’s quite wild here, the fact that it’s not a manicured garden both puts me at more ease about visiting, and also adds to the atmosphere of the site. The perfect mound ringed with flowers looks like something straight out of The Shire, and as I approach the grassy hump, and happily sit on its flank I almost expect to find a hobbit sized door in the side. There’s nothing more to see than the green mound nestled amongst the trees though, but it’s nice to be here on a sunny day, experiencing that sense of connection again with our ancient past.

When compared with the embarrassment of megalithic riches on offer just a stone’s throw away around Mainland, Quanterness is probably unlikely to top anybody’s list of must visit sites. You can catch a glimpse as you pass Quanterness farm on the main A965 near Kirkwall (just look for the trees and you’ll see the mound peeking out) which will probably be enough for most busy modern antiquarian’s, but I’m glad I’ve finally stood here, at just another reminder of these isles rich Neolithic history.

Visited 8.6.14

Although I know some people have had trouble finding the mighty Pentre Ifan I found it easy enough. I did have my O/S map with me but it wasn’t needed as the site is signposted all the way from the A487.

Dafydd had recently made a model of Pentre Ifan for school and I was keen for him to visit the site in person. This was something that he was also eager to do. Karen stayed in the car with Sophie who was sound asleep after playing on the beach.

Even though I had been here before it was with a sense of excitement that I walked from the parking area, along the path, towards the dolmen.

It was whilst walking along the path that I noticed how many large stones there are scattered about. This was something I hadn’t paid much attention to on my previous visit although I am a bit more experienced in these things now so I guess I am more likely to take notice of such things.

What can I say that hasn’t already been said about this site? It is quite exceptional.
It was just as I remembered it. In saying that this is one of those places that you are never likely to forget visiting!

Dafydd was also impressed. I took photos of him stood in front of the stones. Something he can take to school to show his teacher and later keep next to his model which takes pride of place in his bedroom!

Pentre Ifan is one of the outstanding prehistoric site in Wales and should be on everyone’s ‘must do’ list. If you are planning a trip ‘way out west’ make sure to also visit nearby Castell Henllys – it makes for a good day out.

Visited 8.4.16

Dafydd has been doing a bit about St David in school so I thought (while in the area) it would be a good idea to show him where (allegedly) St David was born.

If you have never been to St Non’s it is a pretty place with dramatic coastal views.

I don’t think the people staying in the religious retreat were getting much peace with Sophie bellowing away with her usual gusto!

Whilst visiting the well and chapel remains it gave me the chance to have a look at the four standing stones in the field. The one nearest the bank I missed last time I visited as I wasn’t aware it was there. They are not very big but are there nonetheless.

I didn’t get chance to have a look at the stones in the higher field this time.

If you are in St David’s this is well worth the extra short drive to visit.

Directions:
A short distance east of the Llanrhian standing stone, along a minor road

Not much to see here, just an overgrown mound right next to the hedge/road.

The road is very narrow although you can stop at the open field entrance.

The field was in crop but in the middle of the field I could see a large stone/boulder.
Don’t know if this is relevant to anything?

COFLEIN state:
A ploughed down mound crossed by a hedge bank, 24m in diameter and 0.5m high. When opened by Fenton (19th C) revealed a large cist sealed by a capstone 2.6m long, containing a holed ‘axe-hammer’ and traces of a possible inhumation.

Visited 8.6.14

Directions:
From St David’s take the A487 north-east. When you reach Croes-goch take the turning north for Llanrhian. Park at the church. To the left of the church is a farm and minor road.
The standing stone is easily seen at the back of the farm, next to the road.

As I approached the stone two farmers were busy ‘encouraging’ a herd of cows across the road and into the farm for milking. They both looked over but ignored me.
I assume the patch of open ground the stone stands on is theirs but it is not being used for anything as far as I could tell.

This is a fine stone, over head height with a pointy top.
One side of the stone was covered in moss.
In the distance coastal views could be seen.

This is a really easy stone to access (just drive up the road if you don’t even want to get out of your car!) and is well worth seeking out if you happen to be in the St David’s area.