Latest Fieldnotes

I had intended to visit this broch during June 2017 but having lost a day of my trip north to atrocious weather, had to leave this for a future visit. However, I did gain a chance view of Dun Creagach from across Loch Naver when visiting Grummore broch.

Canmore tells that this is a ‘well preserved and comparatively undisturbed’ broch which has been built on a small island, and which is connected to the shore by a causeway. Although much rubble surrounds the structure, the walling still stands over three metres tall in places and can be traced almost all round the broch.

Visited: June 5, 2017

When motoring north along the A897 from Helmsdale to Melvich, and just over a kilometre north of The Borg, I came across the remains of Carn Liath broch nestling behind Trantlemore cemetery.

Not much to look at, this broch has been extensively robbed, and on approach is just a grassy mound with a scattering of foundation stones littered around it.
The interior has been gouged of much of its detail. It’s almost as if a road had been cut through it, but there is a stretch of basal walling to be seen to its south.

This broch is certainly not worth going out of your way for a visit but, as a quick stop on a long drive north, it offers a short excursion to stretch the legs.

Visited: June 7, 2017

Located atop a conical knoll, some 85 metres above the river Naver and about ¾ kilometre east of it, Allt an Duin is protected by steep slopes, and in summer, a jungle of bracken. This is not a target for the casual walker as the ascent is demandingly steep, though it can be eased by making for the southern ridge and completing the ascent from there. Most of the ascent was through dense bracken, until almost at the broch, when heather took over.

The broch is built from large blocks of igneous or metamorphic rock and much of its structure is concealed under a massive expanse of tumbled masonry. Hardly any structure remains in view on the exterior, although the entrance passage on the west is still discernable. Within the broch there are a few stretches of the inner wall that still reach up to eight courses high.

This must have originally been a superb fastness, not only because of its situation—defended by steep slopes—but because of the amount of rock here. If all the rocks that have cascaded down from the hilltop were replaced in the broch, it would be a mighty structure indeed.

Access to Allt an Duin is along the single-track road to Skelpick, which follows the east bank of the River Naver from the point where the A836 from Bettyhill swings to the west.

Follow the Skelpick road for almost three kilometres, passing Lochan Duinte on the way, and park in the large sand quarry on the right of the road. Immediately across the road is a farm track and the broch is prominent on its knoll about 600&nbspmetres ahead.

There are approx 50 standing stones . There has never been any excavation and there is no site plan that I’m aware of . A very superficial attempt at a survey shows a rough circle of ten stones to the south and to the north of that , a horseshoe /open rectangular grouping open to the north , consisting of 16 stones .The biggest stone is aligned roughly east to west is between the two most obvious groupings and is cup marked .
The area was named in 1851 , after Louise ,wife of the King of Denmark .

Unlike its near neighbour Cairn Of Shiels there isn’t to much to see except a what might have been feeling. Still the cairn has fantastic views west and at least retains some kind of circular shape. How long this will last is questionable, there are an unbelievable amount of wind turbines appearing in the Mearns.

Follow the directions to the Cairn of Shiels, jumping the fence as the track veers east. What remains of the site is 9m wide and at its tallest is 0.3m. Still at least it remains unlike a neighbour to the north.

Visited 28/5/2017.

I left the A92 taking the road past Balandro, the first tarred road south of Johnshaven heading north west. From Balndro follow the road until it ends and take the road heading south, passing the wonderfully named Parkhead to finally stop at a cottage at this roads end. Look north west and the cairn is clearly visible. Walk through a field, jump over the fence and climb a wee hill.

The southern side of the cairn is covered in the jabby stuff and difficult to see. However from my northern approach things are much clearer. Some large kerbs remain in place and much cairn material can be seen due to animal damage. Much of the cairn is covered in turf. It appears to be a cup and saucer Wessex type cairn similar to the fairly close Philla Cairn. The cairn is almost 20m wide and over 2.5m tall. Also visible is The Cloch RSC impressively looking down onto Bridgeton.

Sadly a dry steen dyke and fence go straight over the top of this impressive and large monument but it doesn’t detract from the magnificent views.

Visited 28/5/2017.

21/06/2017 – How many times I’ve driven past this one, oblivious to its existence, I couldn’t tell you. It’s right next to the A9. Noticed it on the 1:25000 OS map recently by chance and as I was in the area last week thought I’d have a look.

Quickest way is probably to park in a layby on the A9 (there are ones either side of the road nearby) and head straight for it but there is a barb wire fence to cross.

Much better is the walk round Loch Alvie. We parked just west of the Rowan Tree hotel on the B9152 (small layby). Head past the hotel and take the track (black gates, access OK) to Loch Alvie. The track loops round the loch (Ospreys fishing at this time of year). Turn left before the house and then left again just before the track goes under the A9. This leads straight to the cairn. This approach hides the A9 from you and gives a better feel to the visit.

What a fine ring cairn this is. Good kerb stones on the west side. East side ones have gone. Lovely views across the Loch and to the big hills. I liked this one.

17/06/2017 – As this site had got the Greywether/Gladman/Drew seal of approval I had been looking forward to my visit.

A few ways to this one. We decided to make a little walk of it and start from Boat of Garten. Heading down the Speyside Way first and then carrying straight on were the Speyside Way turns left under the trainline. After about 1km we took the track west to visit the lovely cairn at Avielochan then back again to head SW for another 1km to Granish Clava Cairn.

This really is a good one. A large cairn surrounded by heather, very different to the grassy setting of the smaller Avielochan cairn nearby. I loved the tree in the middle. We sat for a good while just taking in the view and feel of the place with a brew and a butty or 3.

A visit to Granish and Avielochan makes for a fine walk. Even better maybe take the steam train from Aviemore to Boat of Garten and then walk back via these two, sounds a good day out to me. Very impressed with both cairns.

17/06/2017 – Really liked this one. Good access. We came from the east, across the bridge over the train track. Doesn’t look much on approach, just a grassy knoll with a few nice trees on top. Taking the field edge to the knoll, the cairn seemed to appear out of the grasses from nowhere. Lovely setting. Fine kerb stones and I liked the small slope down into the centre. Well worth a visit.

Visited: May 21, 2017

The fort of Dun Beag lies just over a kilometre due south of Dun Vallerain, and likewise on a steep conical hill. Park beside the cemetery 800 metres west of Brodaig from the A855 (blue marker), walk back up to the Brodaig-Uig road, then turn left and continue for around 400 metres till a gate comes into view on your right. Dun Beag now rears steeply above you and looks impregnable, but a path from the gate heads northwards and contours all of the way round to the west of the hill then leads up easy grassy slopes to the summit (red marker). The ascent is about 100 metres.

The upper slopes of the hill are covered in tumbled stones that were once the dun’s defensive western wall. The summit is basically a level grassy plain (measuring 37&nbsp×&nbsp15 metres ) with few redeeming features other than the superb views it provides towards both the sea and the precipices of the Cuiraing. There is a well defined entrance passage bordered by large squared blocks in its upper reaches. To the east and north, the hill falls almost precipitously to the moorlands below and there is little evidence of walling. On the easier western slopes, traces of walling two courses deep can still be identified amongst the tumble. Judging from the quantity of tumbled stones on the western slopes, there must once have been a substantial defensive wall here. In a few places, on the southern and western slopes, intermittent stetches of the foundation course can still be found in situ.

It’s been quite warm and cloudless for several days now and I’m beginning to think this years summer solstice sunrise might actually happen, when I left the house the sky was clear and by no means dark, even at 3am.
It’s been two and a half years since I was last here and I really wanted to have a look and make sure the gorse bush removal scars had healed, I’ve also had an equinox sunrise and a winter solstice sunrise (too cloudy) so just a summer sunrise to go and I’ve got a full hand.
But more miraculous than sunshine and heatwaves in North Wales, my Sciatic back has finally given up making my life hell and returned to the normal background pain of before.

After taking the wrong turn by the pub in Tal y Bont and ending up near Cerrig Pryfaid, I had to turn about, retrace my journey back and then up the right road, lots of hairpin bends on the right road, note to self.
Parked in the usual place, by the gate, followed the same wall down to the river, which is easily crossed in this heatwave, then the squelchy bit up to the stones. Just in time too, thanks to that miss turn I only very just made it in time.
I get the camera out and prepare to capture this particular stellar moment, but I’m too out of breath and just plain knackered, so I rest for 30 seconds have a drink and then set about the sunrise with some gusto. It’s a perfect sunrise, a big lazy orange ball heaving itself out of the sea and into the sky. I didn’t even realise til now that I could see the sea. It’s really quite warm in the hills today, and that’s not something I often say, it is a beautiful gorgeous day and I cant think of a better way to start the day, though it actually started a couple of hours ago, but still.

Back to the sun rising out of the sea on the solstice, that happens at the Druids circle too, on the equinox the sun rises from behind a medium sized hill at both sites, on the winter solstice the Druids circle sees a sunrise from behind a mountain, ie Tal y Fan, I wonder if the winter solstice from Hafodygors Wen also rises behind a mountain ie Moel Eilio, guess I’ll have to have another crack at the midwinter skive off work day, wont I.
Enough of the skies now, looking down at the stones, I’m extremely heartened to see that there is no sight of any gorse bush removal scar, completely healed so it has, like they were never there at all.
All the place needs now is a little car park, at the gate where I’ve parked, a path, I’ll say it again, a path, a proper one down to the river, where a proper group of stepping stones takes you over the river and up to the stones by the driest route. Then again scratch all that they’d probably put a fence round the stones and put up an information board in an inappropriate place.
Not to my stones your not.

Visited 21.6.2017

Three years later I find myself back on Garth Hill. This time however I am here on the Solstice to see the sun come up and not go down – minus Dafydd who I left in bed as he has school later this morning and he is one crabby boy when tired!

I arrived at the usual parking spot at 4.15am ready for a sunrise at 4.55am. I headed up the rough track and was soon joined by an elderly chap who informed me that his granddaughter was at Stonehenge so he thought he would join her in spirit by watching the Solstice from somewhere nearer home. I said I would rather be here than Stonehenge today!

Upon reaching the barrow we surveyed the scene around us. Although the sky above us was clear, it was hazy with some cloud on the horizon. Why is it that when you hope for a clear sky to see the sun rise/set it is usually like this? On the plus side we were treated to a crescent moon and the planet Venus shining brightly above it. It was a bit windy but cool rather than cold – no doubt it will get a lot warmer as the day unfolds during this current heat wave.

We were soon joined by 3 other people and then a little later by a lady walking her dog. By now the sky and surrounding countryside was starting to lighten, changing from blue to purple to lilac. The clouds being under lit by the still unseen sun changing the clouds from rose pink to bright orange and eventually to bright white. Several jet airliners sped high overhead, leaving a trail of white in their wake.

At 5.00am the sun made its brilliant appearance, breaking through the clouds as a bright red orb – a wondrous sight and well worth getting up for. All was quiet except for the sound of birdsong all around us. We were all deep in our own thoughts contemplating everything and nothing.

Before long the sun had risen sufficiently enough to make looking directly at it impossible. Time to head back down the hill, home, breakfast and get ready for work. I may be the most tired one in the office today but I will probably be the one feeling most fulfilled.

Visited 20th June 2017

As the dig season for the Cairns draws towards its end, and the sun makes an appearance through the clouds, it seems like the right time for a trip down to South Ronaldsay to check out the excavation. There is a small parking spot down at Windwick bay, full when we arrived, so we squeezed the car onto the verge, please make sure you don’t block the drive of the neighbouring house though, fortunately we didn’t, but during our visit someone else had, prompting a visit from the irate householder unable to get his car out, giving a bit of a haranguing to the archaeologists!

Soon we were approached by a friendly archaeologist asking us if we would like a tour, and along with a small group of other visitors he proceeded to take us all around the site giving us a fascinating explanation of the various features, before taking us into the finds hut to show us some of the most recent finds, including a lovely bronze ‘Hand-pin’ found a few days ago.

Even without a tour though the site would be well worth a visit. The first thing that struck me was the size of the broch, walls at least three metres thick, with the fine sweep of its circular stonework and its interior orthostats clearly showing dividing partitions within the structure. Just seeing it partially emerged from the ground, and coming back into view for the first time in over 1,500 years was amazing. I was particularly struck by the holed stone orthostat which stood aligned with main broch entrance, the archaeologist suggesting it may have been a stone taken from an earlier neolithic monument from the surrounding area and re-used.

Outside of the broch work was proceeding on the large trench investigating the surrounding village complex. Two furnaces and a number of parts of broken moulds for bronze pins have been uncovered in this area, suggesting production of jewellery on a large scale, and suggestive of an obviously important site.

We learned so much about this fascinating place, particularly intriguing to me was the fact that apparently the broch had at one point been de-commissioned, the upper floors taken down, and used to infill the interior of the structure, but done in a careful way without destroying the internal partitions. Even more mysteriously a souterrain was then built outside of the structure which linked to a chamber built into the infilled broch.

We must have spent at least an hour with the archaeologist, who gave us a fantastic tour of this enigmatic site, and if you ever get the chance to visit during the Cairns relatively short excavation season I can’t recommend it highly enough.

What a weird site.

I first saw this set of earthworks (I’m not happy calling it a ‘fort’, ‘camp’ is also a bit iffy tbh...) almost 30 years ago, but then just in the distance as I was wandering about exploring the area around a small festival at one of the farms at the edge of the moor.

Since then I’ve looked at it in the distance a few times, and on aerial shots, it’s quite easily visible, and merits some seriously confident dashes on the OS map, so I knew the ramparts were fairly high.

But actually having a walk about in there for the first time, I was surprised by how small it is in footprint. There’s barely enough room for a house, though apparently there was one during a Romano-British re-occupation period of use. I couldn’t quite shake the feeling that it might have also been re-used more recently, mebbe during the border reiver years.

So the overall effect is quite impressive. Because the ramparts are 4m high in places, so it’s got an almost claustrophobic feel to it.

Oddly small ‘fort’. Lotsa Bronze age stuff nearby. Access isn’t too tricky if you go when the bracken is low. Bloody annoying round this neck of the woods if it’s high. Go have a look if you’re in the area.

There isn’t much left of the Saints cairn which sits to the east of the B974. A small heather/turf covered mound remains sitting at 8m wide/0.4m tall, with a scattering of cairn material. It is a well placed site as the Cairn O Mount can be seen to the north and a lot of the sites east of Laurencekirk also.

Take the track heading south on the east side of the B974. The cairn is situated next to the fence approximately 500 metres away.

Visited 18/5/2017.

The Ring is a cairn basically situated inside an enclosure, 19m in width. Sadly this cairn and its surrounds will soon vanish amongst the forestry thanks to recently planted trees. Along with trees, turf covers the 7.5m wide/0.3m high cairn. Hardly any cairn material can be sitting on the mound.

Take the first tarred farm road heading west, south of the Clatterin Brig on the B974 (Cairn O Mount road) which heads to Arnbarrow. After about a 1/2 mile, take the road that heads south east, follow the road round the corner heading south. Immediately after the pheasant feeders look to the east of the road and the remains of the site will be found.

Visited 17/5/2017.

Visited: June 8, 2017

Leadoch broch stands on a low, bracken infested knoll about 150 metres west of the estate road near the south of Loch Brora. The site is very dilapilated showing no internal structure at all, and with the outer wall little more than a mass of tumble. This site is hardly worth the effort of a visit unless you are already intending to make you way to the splendid Carrol broch about a kilometre farther up the valley.

Directions are the same as for visiting Carrol broch, except that you only have to follow the path for one kilometre before tramping through bracken on your left to Leadoch (about 160 metres).

I came at it from the south after climbing down near an old ruin but the lady occupying the nearby house pointed out that it would be safer to come along the farm road from the main road and use the modern slipway. The mound above the cliff is all tussocks of grass, folk have gone on it but I know how treachorous this vegetation can be and I was alone. The place didn’t photograph well in the light present

The Little chef has now shut down and is all borded up. This does mean that for now at least the circle has a dedicated car park and pathway.

Visited Friday 26/5/17:
The most perfect day and, unfortunately, our last full day in Argyll. Kintraw standing stone and cairn can be seen clearly at a sharp bend as you drive towards the village of Ardfern and Loch Craignish and there is a small pull-in parking area opposite the site. This particular day the sun shone, the sky blue and it was warm – the best of sort of summer day. Kintraw is probably the tallest standing stone I’ve ever stood next to. It is also in the most fabulous location overlooking Loch Craignish and the loch-side village of Ardfern. I did wonder what its purpose was as it was unlike any of the other standing stones we had seen in the Kilmartin area – being almost cylindrical in shape. Although Loch Craignish was visible from the site I don’t think the standing stone or cairn could been seen from the loch.
Made a bit of a mistake here though as my companion-in-charge-of-map-reading told me that Kintraw and the Clach an t-Sagairt Cairn were in the same place so we made the assumption it was the cairn next to the standing stone. Have since found out it wasn’t and we’ve missed it.
Anyway after a leisurely lunch in the Crafty Cafe Tea Room in Ardfern we spent a peaceful afternoon visiting the ruined chapel of Kilmarie (Kilvaree) –
which is dedicated to the 7th century Irish monk St Maelrubha of Applecross – and then exploring the remote coastal area nearby.

Visited 25/5/17 as part of our visit to Kilmichael Glen

Following the road from Kilmichael Glassary northeast out of the village to the bridge over the River Add (where Dunadd gets its name) we continued walking along the quiet single track road which runs along the valley bottom. A little bit further along on in a field on your left there is a single standing stone which has cup marks similar to those at Ballymeanoch and Nether Largie. One more stone is known to have stood in the field (and there may have been others). In the same field there two earthfast rock outcrops which are covered with cup and ring marks. On the day we walked by there was a tractor cutting the grass in the field and the gate was firmly secured – we decided not to climb over on this occasion.

Visited Wednesday 24/5/17

More wonderful rock carvings on easily accessible panels just behind the local primary school. It is ok to park in the small car park by the school though visitors are asked to avoid school pick-up times.

To quote “In The Footsteps Of Kings” by Sharon Webb (Walk 11):
“Within the fenced enclosure you will see two groups of cup and ring markings carved into earthfast rock slabs. There are many single cups as well as cups with rings and gutters. Look out for the cups with rings shaped like a keyhole which occur on both slabs. Some of the outcrops around the fenced enclosure also have markings, but please don’t be tempted to pull back the vegetation as the carvings are liable to be damaged by stock.”

After examining the panels walked back down to the village – with some free range chickens and an anxious cockerel keeping us in their sights. Next over the Glassary Churchyard to look at some medieval grave stones – apparently the ‘Kil’ element in the place name Kilmichael Glassary indicates an early Christian settlement in the Glen.

Visited: June 7, 2017

Three miles along the B873 from Altnahara, on the north bank of Loch Naver, you will come to a small parking place beside the Altnahara Caravan Club Site. This is not, perhaps, where you would expect to find a broch, but Grummore stands at the water’s edge at the north end of this site.

From outside, Grummore appears as a moss and lichen encrusted pile of stones with no structure remaining and some mature trees rising from its interior.

But the interior of the broch retains many typical elements despite being full of tumbled debris, and in places the walls rise to almost 2.5 metres tall. The entrance lies on the west of the broch, indicated from outside by a slight dip on the structure: but on the inside there is a well formed entranceway with lintels still in pace. Walking around the circumference, there are several places where there is evidence of a ground-level gallery.

There’s lots more information about Grummmore on the Canmore website.

Visited: June 8, 2017

Carrol is a relatively remote, seldom visited broch, located in a large forest clearing at an altitude of about 100 metres, about half a kilometre west of Loch Brora in Sutherland.

At first sight, the broch appears as just a huge stoneheap but there’s a real treat in store once you climb up and view the interior. The broch was excavated by the Duke of Sutherland during the 1870s, and its external walling was completely buried by the material removed from the interior, which now stands almost 4 metres tall around the entire structure. To say this is impressive is an understatement: the interior of Carrol broch is little short of overwhelming!

There is an entrance passsage on the east-southeast but this is sufficiently blocked at its inner end to deny the visitor access. Nevertheless, walking round the ramparts—effectively the broch’s second level—is quite an experience (just a pity the centre of the broch is inhabited by dense bushes these days).

Three features in particular stand out. On the west, a long staircase of at least a dozen steps, thickly encrusted by moss and lichen, but still recognisable, leads down into the wall gallery to the lower level. At the foot of the stair, is a door-frame faced with massive stone slabs which would have originally led from the gallery into the interior. Then, immediately after comes a long stretch of gallery leading all the way round to the entrance. At the time of excavation half this gallery was still roofed over but now most of it has lost its lintels and is open to the air.

How to get there
The broch stands just 50 metres north of a prominent stream (Allt Coire Aghaisgeig) which flows down into Loch Brora, and this provides the easiest way to locate it as it is not visible from below. Be advised that this visit is not quite a ‘stroll in the park’. Stout walking shoes or boots are essential, specially if you lose your way in the forest!

After following the road signposted Doll (to the south of the River Brora from the A9) for 2½ kilometres, there are a few parking spaces at the road’s end, beside the footbridge over the river (orange marker at foot of map). Backtrack about 50 metres then follow the estate road through the forest for a pleasant walk before emerging from the trees after about one kilometre. From here, continue along the road for another two kilometres to the point where it crosses the Allt Coire Aghaisgeig.

Now is the most important bit because the broch lies in woodland behind a tall deer fence. Do not cross the stream, but make directly for the fence just before the stream (150 metres over heather) where you will find a tall stile (blue marker). Once over the stile, cross the stream and head exactly south-west to Carrol broch, through woodland now consisting of fairly scattered birch trees. Another 450 metres and you’re there (red marker). Alternatively, follow the stream uphill, as it passes just 50 metres from the broch.

You may also be interested in visiting Backies Broch, similarly well preserved, just a short distance north of Golspie.

There is a lot of information about Carrol broch on the Canmore website.

Visited the evening of 21/5/17:

Found this walk by chance on our first evening. Having been out for most of the day on the way back to our accommodation we noticed a simple sign pointing to ‘cup & ring marks’ just on the corner by the between the Cairnbaan Hotel and adjacent houses. So at around 8.30pm on our first evening (the rain had stopped, the light was lovely) after a pleasant towpath walk to the hotel we found the narrow path up to the Cairnbaan rock art panels. A steep uphill walk through pinewood and bluebells. Small signposts point the way to a clearing where the rock are panels are protected by railings. There were metal steps provided, however, to let visitors have a closer look. There are actually two sites with other outcrops a bit further uphill (look for the sign post). This second site is described as being one of the best examples of cup & rings around.

The lower panels contain mostly pits or cup marks, some of which are surrounded by rings and a few have lines leading out from them to natural fissures in the rock. According to the information board the Neolithic people who created the rock art may have chosen these outcrops for their views over an important route into Kilmartin Glen. The designs would have been pecked out using quartz hammerstones like those found during excavations at Torbhlaren in Kilmichael Glen. Experimental work showed that each pit took 30 to 90 minutes of repeated pecking and much concentration to create.

The upper panels contain a complex arrangement of pits, concentric rings and lines, 29 symbols in all. Again, referring to the second information board we learnt that schoolmaster Archibald Currie was the first person to write about rock art after visiting Cairnbaan in 1830. He suggested the concentric rings could represent planetary orbits around the sun. Sir James Young Simpson (pioneer of chloroform as an anaesthetic) also became a shrewd scholar of Scottish rock art observing in 1867 “They evidently indicate wherever found, a common thought of some common origin, belonging to a common people”

This walk appears as Walk 14 in “In The Footsteps Of Kings” by Sharon Webb.
Fabulous views over the Crinan Canal towards Lochgilphead to the south and hills to the north.