Latest Fieldnotes

Visited Sunday 21st April 2017.

This was a surprising site, not at all what I was expecting – we walked from the Nether Largie Standing Stones in the rain. Access very easy as everywhere is signposted. The bluebells were still out under the trees which, together with the relatively small size of the stones, gave the site an enchanted atmosphere. I don’t think I have done this site justice as at first sight it is unspectacular compared to other stone circles. Strictly speaking this was definitely an ancient burial site which is something we are not able to say about other larger stone circles.

As with all the other sites around Kilmartin there was an excellent interpretation/information board which really helped in the understanding of the site. I have reproduced the information below:

Templewood started as a timber circle about 5,000 years ago. The wooden uprights were soon replaced with stones while a second larger stone circle was built to the south. Between 4,300 and 4,100 years ago, two cairn covered stone graves or ‘cists’ were built outside the southern circle.
Then about 4,000 years ago the northern circle’s stones were pulled from the earth and possibly re-used in nearby burials. A cist was built in the middle of the southern circle, slabs were placed between its standing stones and it was surrounded by a low cairn of cobbles. Cremated remains were buried inside the southern circle about 3,300 years ago.

Into the heavens: The two cairns built inside the southern circle about 3,300 years ago have small stone ‘false portals’ at right angles to their kerbs. Both these fake entrances face south-east towards the midwinter moonrise.

The ‘Archer’s Ghost’: Traces of those buried at Templewood emerged during excavations led by Jack Scott in the 1970s. In one grave he found three flint arrowheads, a scraper and a decorated Beaker pot but no human remains. Analysis of phosphate levels in the grave revealed the position of a person whose body had decayed away. In another grave the tooth of a child aged between four and six was found.

Visited on 21/5/17 and again on 24/5/17

This is one of the first and oldest monuments in Kilmartin Glen and reminded me a bit of West Kennet Long Barrow back home in Wiltshire. It had been re-used and rebuilt at least twice.

Information taken from the Interpretation Board.
The tomb was used for burial about 4,300 years ago when Beaker pots and flint arrowheads were placed with the dead inside the chamber. A few generations later, in the Early Bronze Age, the monument was remodelled and converted into a circular cairn like the others along the valley bottom. Two stone graves or ‘cists’ containing the remains of important people were added.

See plan of the tomb – this is what was found:

1. Flint, unburnt human bones, ox bones.
2. Pottery, unburnt human bones, ox bones.
3. Three beaker pots, cremated human bones.
4. Slab covering cremated human bones.
5. Empty stone grave with unburnt bones and pottery nearby.
6. Neolithic bowl.
7. Burnt human bones, broken quartz pebbles, flint knives and arrowheads, a cow tooth.

Visited Sunday 21/5/17

It is difficult to talk about these stones without mentioning the Nether Largie South Cairn and Templewood Stone Circle as they are very close together and seem intrinsically connected to each other.

Drawing on the information on one of the excellent interpretation boards, this X-shaped monument consists of five tall standing stones and the stump of another (no longer visible) 300 metres to the west. A central standing stone with two others at some distance either side.
Three of the stones have rock art symbols on one side and had probably been prised from outcrops decorated about 1,500 years earlier. These decorated stones may have been erected approximately 3,200 years ago about the same time as those at Ballymeanoch.

Alexander Thom (controversial archaeo-astronomer) claimed this was one of the most important lunar observatories in Britain. Recent analysis supports the idea that the stones mark where the moon rises and sets at key points in its 18.6 year cycle. The standing stones also line up with the midwinter sunrise and autumn and spring equinoxes.

Visited: June 5, 2017

Across the estuary of the River Naver from Bettyhill stands a steep 80 metre tall hill bearing the broch Baile Mhargaite on its summit.

It’s a walk of around 1.5 kilometres from the bridge over the River Naver at Invernaver, across grass then sand to the broch, following a rough path to the south of Baile Mhargaite beside a steep stream. It is best to continue a little past the broch as the easiest ascent is from the west.

From the outside, this broch is little more than a tumbled mass of stones, but the interior wall is well preserved all the way round the structure, to a visible height approaching two metres. In reality, the true height of these walls is probably as great as five metres as the interior of the broch is deeply infilled by blown sand (hence this sometimes being dubbed the ‘Sandy Broch‘).

You can read more about this site at Canmore, who also provide an aerial colour photograph of the area.

I approached from the opposite side of the hill that Thelonius tackled.

Parking at the end of Keir Hill Road, Westhill I walked up the farm track, north, which veers east towards Berryhill Farm. Just before the farm I jumped the fence and headed to the top of the hill with its impressive enclosure. The entrance to site is to the east with the width of the enclosure being well over 30m.

After a good look round it was further east to the Souterhill cairn, heading back to Keir Hill Road via Souterhill and Berryhill farms.

Visited 27/4/2017.

Visited Thursday 25/5/17

Stopped off here again as had missed it when visiting Ballymeanoch and Dunchraigaig earlier in the week. Parked in the small car park designated for Dunchraigaig – the path to Balauchraig rock art panel is on the right of the cairn not though immediately obvious. By chance, we came a cross two American men, father and son, who were also looking for the path to Baluachraig. The father was a talker and pretty much told us his life story on the walk down. Not an uninteresting encounter but something of a distraction.
I’ve posted a photo of the excellent information board which gives a better image of the cup and ring marks than I could capture in the weather conditions the morning we were there.
We later went on to Ormaig from Carnasserie Castle car park. The grey clouds disappeared, the sun came out ... Ormaig blew me away and, blissfully, we didn’t see another soul.

Visited Sunday 21/5/17
This was the first site we visited after Achnabreck and did so by chance really as would have passed it on our way to the ‘big’ sites in Kilmartin. As it turned out it seemed to form part of an astonishing archaeological complex comprising Ballymeanoch standing stones, kerb cairn and henge. And the Baluachraig rock art panel (same small car park on the opposite side of the road and same gate for all three sites).

Dunchraigaig, as with all the Kilmartin sites has a superb interpretation/information board. This one tells us that the cairn was excavated in the 19th century firstly by Rev. Reginald Mapleton and then again in 1864 by Canon William Greenwell. Inside the graves they found two decorated pots, flint chips and human remains. Among the cairn stones were a whetstone for sharpening metal, a stone axehead, a flint knife and pottery. All now lost.

Visited Sunday 21/5/17
This was the first site we visited after Achnabreck in the rain. Or rather I should say after the Dunchraigaig cist/cairn – as you have to walk past cairn to get to the field where the Ballymeanoch stones stand. To the right of Dunchraigaig is a path to the Balauchraig rock art panel – which we visited later in the week. I mention it here as it seems to be part of the whole picture. The small car park is on the opposite side of the road and is signposted for Dunchraigaig.

Ballymeanoch is an amazing, atmospheric place. One field contains:
- A four stone row of exceptionally tall stones, one of which has cup marks on it.
- A two stone row which apparently included a third holed stone. This stone has been moved from its original position and now lies in a different part of the field near the kerb cairn.
- A kerb cairn
- And a henge. Not clearly visible until you walk up to it. The henge is the only surviving one of its kind in Scotland.

Spent quite a bit of time here soaking up the atmosphere before heading to the Kilmartin Museum and cafe.

This time I approached from the Hill Of Keir, the hill with an enclosure to the west. It’s a fairly short and not very steep walk to the shoulder between the hills. Over a fence and over to other the side which is an easy on walk on grass. At the bottom of Souterhill’s western flank there is a small bog. Once over that it is over a deer fence, climbing over on the northern side.

People say some things get better with age and I’d have to say this cairn looks better since my last visit. Another kerb has appeared and the whole place seemed tidier.

One thing didn’t change. The last time I was here I was drenched. This time was no exception.

Visited 27/4/2017.

From the Stone Of Morphie I walked to the A92 and headed south over the North Water Bridge which crosses the North Esk river, the border between Aberdeenshire and Angus. Take the first minor road west to Hillside, cross over the A937 and take the minor road north westish to Rosemount and keep going until a farm called the Three Laws, an apt name.

Just after the Three Laws take the farm track heading south. At the first dry stane dyke go south following the dyke. Just before the trees end, climb over the fence and head through the woods to western side.

Sadly two of the three cairns, hence the Three Laws, have been quarried out, removed altogether. The remaining cairn is in a terrible state. The width of the site is almost 20m but the damage is such that only some parts survive at 0.4m tall. Cairn material has been scattered everywhere making this once fine Wessex cairn barely recognisable.

Despite the sad end, a fine days walking completed by a hike back to Marykirk and eventually Canterland.

Visited 6/4/2017.

From Morphie Farm I headed south back down the farm road, past the recent additions of standing stone, and walked east along this twisty road. Drivers here, like everywhere else, seem to drive very fast. Still I arrived in one piece at this magnificent stone. Standing at 3.5m tall it made me feel small.

With that it was on with the longest part of the walk across the border into Angus :-).

Visited 6/4/2017.

Visited: May 25, 2017

I parked in a disused quarry half way along the Cuidrach road as the occupants of two mobile homes sat in the sunshine enjoying breakfast on this fantastic morning. The walk down to the shore then round to the neck of land to the southeast of Dùn Maraig is a pleasant two kilometres.

As luck would have it, my visit to Skye coincided with New Moon (on this actual day), which meant that neap tides were the lowest of the month. And to be sure, the islet of Dun Maraig lay absolutely high and dry—the perfect opportunity to make the short crossing and investigate the site. So, armed with two walking poles, I set out across the seaweed-encrusted boulders towards the dùn, taking what looked to be the shortest distance. The poles were a great help in keeping upright on the slippery weed, but the crossing was not difficult at all (stout boots advised, though).

Arriving at the northwest of Dùn Maraig, huge foundation blocks with the remains of four walling courses of smaller stones above them rose above me. But further progress was impossible on account of the seaweed-covered boulders that would have had to be climbed. I continued round the islet, to the southeast along a fairly easy terrace until a dip in the grassy surface above signified what was presumably the entrance to the dùn. Here it proved easy to ascend to the top of the islet’s defences. Interestingly, there is no evidence of a ‘built’ entrance passage, just the slight grassy dip through the boulders. To the east of the entrance, defences resumed in the shape of some particularly large walling blocks, now largely collapsed, hinting that this must have been an impressive fort in its heyday.

The summit of Dùn Maraig is mainly grass-covered, with a splendid bloom of bluebells at the time of my visit. Walking round the islet, it was found to be defended by cliffs the length of its north and east coasts, walling only apparently having been necessary on the lower west and south sides. Canmore refers to the remains of two oblong structures on the islet, and one was just discernable beneath the lush overgrowth of vegetation.

Dùn Maraig was originally attached to the mainland by a gently curving causeway, marked out by large boulders on each side, most of which are now long gone. This was the route I chose to make my departure, and the walking was really firm and easy, much more so than the inward route chosen, and I barely required the walking poles to negotiate it.

For those disposed for exploring off the beaten track, this is a wonderful little expedition. Just one word of warning: consult tide charts (I used data for the Isle of Lewis—just across the Minch—which was the closest I could find) and ensure you don’t become marooned by a rising tide.

Visited 21/5/17: We passed the sign for Achnabreck on our way to the accommodation we were going to be staying in at Cairnbaan so it was with no difficulty we drove back there the next day. We could have walked but that morning it was raining ... heavily. We were undeterred and, after a bumpy drive up the forest track, found the designated parking area.
The information/interpretation boards are abundant and full of useful information. We followed the clearly marked trails up to Acknabreck 1. In no way did the rain spoil the enjoyment of seeing my first Kilmartin rock art panels although my photos didn’t do them justice. On then to Achnabreck 2. A smaller though as equally impressive panel. We understood there was third panel further on and did walk on a bit to find it, unsuccessfully. Very much wanted to walk back up there from Cairnbaan – as there is a narrow short-cut road just past Cairnbaan Hotel which comes out opposite the sign for Achnabreck – in better weather but one week just wasn’t long enough.

Achnabreck – also known as Achnabreac in Gaelic which might contain elements that mean ‘speckled’.

From the farm at Canterland I walked back down to the minor road and headed east over the impressive bridge crossing the Morphie Burn. The Morphie Farm is well signposted shortly after climbing up from the bridge. Impressive standing stones have recently been erected leading the way to an equally impressive farmhouse. Nobody at the farm had heard of the cairn but they all had heard of the nearby famous standing stone.

The cairn does remain. A track heads up a wee hill just to the north of the farm which is fenced containing masts and a small plantation. Canmore have the cairn to the west of this area, it is actually on the east side.

Part of the cairn has been damaged by fencing and also by the making of a road which leads to nearby quarry. Underneath the gorse plenty cairn material can be seen with possible kerbs hiding beneath the grass. Somehow the cairn survives at almost 14m wide being nearly 2m tall.

Perhaps its a lucky thing that not many people realise this cairn still exists. Good all round views including south into Angus.

Visited 6/4/2017.

Canterland is a lovely cairn in a lovely location. Just south of the small village of Marykirk take the first minor road heading east. Take the farm track signposted Canterland, go past the farm and park at the small cottage. Walk a small distance north east and take the first track uphill. Follow this until the fields. Keep going following the dry stane dyke which leads to the top of the Hill Of Canterland. Over the fence and the cairn is slightly to the west.

Situated behind presumably a wee wall and ditch the cairn is over 9m wide and 1m tall. Pebbles can be spotted poking through the grass. The ditch is over 3m wide. Sadly the south side of the cairn has been houked. Fantastic views south and east on a clear day.

Lovely site, worth a visit.

Visited 6/4/2017.

Visited 25/5/17. This is a lovely spot – or was the warm sunny day we visited on the way back from the Ormaig rock carving panels. These two standing stones were not really visible on our outward walk to Ormaig – perhaps they were but as we weren’t looking for them we didn’t see them until our return walk. Walking back from Ormaig they are clearly visible from a distance and stand just below a cairn on the crest of the hill. They also appear to be visually aligned with the cairn on the opposite hilltop (I think called Cairn Baan though not near the village of Cairn Baan).

Great views towards Carnasserie Castle and Kilmartin village – and whatever the reason for these hillside standing stones they would of acted as an marker for any ancient travellers making their way from the coast to Kilmartin.

Visited Thursday 25/5/17 – the sun finally broke through the mist/drizzle of earlier in the week and it was actually hot. Started walk from the car park for Carnassarie Castle following the directions from ‘Walk 3’ in “In The Footsteps Of Kings” book (purchased earlier in the week from Kilmartin Museum shop) which also contains a clear map and grid references. Distance 7km/4.4 miles.

Quite a strenuous walk through pine woodland but mostly in the open so not much respite from the strange phenomena of strong sunshine. Much of what was forest has now been felled. Still a lovely walk though, with a cuckoo clearly calling throughout. The panels can be seen on the hillside as you approach downhill and the walk back up to them was particularly lovely with a fast flowing stream below, butterflies and moths scattering before us onto the late bluebells and other wild flowers.
The views from the panels towards Loch Craignish were stunning in the sunlight. The interpretation board at the bottom of the slope suggested that perhaps the carvings were made to indicate the way from the sea to Kilmartin Glen burial centre.
There are seven discrete panels exposed, one with the quite rare rosette design, rings, parallel lines and grooves. On one of the smaller stones just cup marks. Now protected as an Ancient Scheduled Monument, one of the lower panels has names carved by John Campbell in 1874 and Archie Campbell in 1877.

The walk back was very interesting as we took time to walk up to the two standing stones and cairn just above Carnasserie Castle, which was a wonderful spot. Perhaps it was the lovely weather or the slightly challenging walk – this visit remains very vivid in my memory.

26/05/17 – We started from Lauder on what proved to be as hot a day for walking as I can remember in a long while. Bit too hot to be honest (yes, I know I shouldn’t really grumble). Following the Southern Upland Way, we headed NE past Thirlestane Castle (looks impressive) to the start of the wood just after Wanton Walls. From there we headed north through Edgarhope Wood and on to Dabshead Hill (hillfort & standing stone here). No access problems.

Borrowston Rigg stone circle is about a mile NE of Dabshead Hill. It’s an easy stroll across. Once away from the hillfort, the feeling of the landscape changed to one of a peaceful open moorland with big skies and gentle bird song as we walked along. Head for the old sheep pen, visible from a good distance and the circle is just beyond.

Listed as having 30-32 small stones. We did a quick count and got to 20. Too sleepy to look for more, it was enough. I just wanted to sit down and relax by the stones in the sunshine. It’s a lovely setting and makes for a nice visit on a good weather day.

Quicker access is from Burncastle if needed. Well worth the trip. I was very taken with the whole place.

26/05/17 – Borrowston Rig South cairn is just south of the stone circle. Not in great condition but it does have two nice earthfast stones in the centre. Canmore mentions ‘cup marks’ on the larger stone but like the marks on the standing stone on Dabshead hill nearby, looked more like natural weathering to me.

26/05/17 – I like a little head-scratcher on a walk and this site fits the bill nicely. About 200m SE of the stone circle (easy fence to cross), the ‘Burrow Stones’ are classed as a stone setting.

On a slightly sloping area of the moor is a smattering of small stones, not dissimilar to the ones used in the stone circle nearby. If you completely ignore the inconveniently positioned ones that ruin the plan you can get some nice long straightish rows of stones :-)

Worth a look if you are visiting the circle nearby.

26/05/17 – At the centre of the Hillfort on Dabshead Hill is this standing(ish) stone. It’s got some lean to it now and is supported by a modern cairn at the base. The stone is tall, about 3.5m and would look pretty impressive if straightened up a little.

Questions marks over its age and ‘cup marks’.

Canmore states that it was erected to commemorate a marriage in the 19th century but also that it was moved there from the moorland near Borrowston Rigg stone circle, so it could have first been a standing stone there. Classified as Prehistoric. Its height is quite different to the rest of the stones on the moor. Old OS maps have the fort marked on them but no mention of the standing stone anywhere.

Large ‘cups marks’ on the stone but looked natural to me.

Worth a visit for the view and it’s a nice walk.

26/05/17 – Decent sized hillfort on top of Dabshead Hill. We came from Lauder via Edgarhope Wood but if time is short it’s quicker to start from Burncastle. Ramparts and ditches can be made out OK. Views very good. Trigpoint and big standing stone at the centre.

This barrow is situated near the B974 and its crossroads with the A90 dual carriageway on the Marykirk side. I parked at Crosspoles, crossed the road, the B974, and walked the short distance south to the barrow.

The barrow is about 14m wide and no more than 0.5m high. Fallen trees sit on top and tree stumps that cause walking hazards. In rainy/damp conditions this area would become very marshy.

Not much to see here but nearby are several good barrows so it has fine company. Somehow I forgot about the cairn at nearby Hatton, that can wait until another day.

Visited 6/4/2017.

This area has plenty of fine sites and this enclosure is an addition to that list. In the past it has been described as a fort or dun and its location is a good place for defences.

It is 32m wide and is surrounded by a wall which at its widest is 3m and is at least 1.8m at its tallest, being 0.3m at its lowest. The whole site is surrounded by a dry stane dyke, built to house a plantation, which gives an appearance of a large ditch. Superb all round views of the Donside countryside.

The nearest sites are the Glenkindie Standing Stone, Monaels cairns/cup marked rock and the nearby souterrain. Park at the lodge near the souterrain and head up through the wood following a hardly used trail. This ends at a dry stane dyke which can be easily climbed. Head south west and to the top of the small hill where the enclosure is situated.

Great site, well worth a visit.

Visited 8/4/2017.

Follow the fieldnotes for the cairn and cup marked stone but this time keep going straight over the hill going half way down the other side. A previous attempt to find this was scuppered by dodgy grid refs on Canmore and the fact that the ring is difficult to spot.

The ring is about 19cm in width and is found on a rock that is over 1m in width/length. It is the flattest rock that side of the hill.

Visited 24/3/2017.