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Been twice for 2 weeks. First time, 1 week Kirkwall, 1 week Papa Westray (left the car at Mainland airport 'cos Papay is totally walkable). 2nd time 1 week cottage north of Kirkwall, 1 week Sanday, car ferry.
If you want solitude + walking in landscape, both Papay + Sanday are WONDERFUL.
On Mainland stay, we preferred Kirkwall for overall flexibilty. Strongly endorse a visit to Banks at South Ronaldsay (excellent cafe/restaurant). Totally different experience to the nearby Tomb of the Eagles.

tomatoman wrote:
Strongly endorse a visit to Banks at South Ronaldsay (excellent cafe/restaurant). Totally different experience to the nearby Tomb of the Eagles.
Yep, crawling along that passage and into the tomb is very special. It felt like it was untouched, like we were among the first people to ever see it! A fantastic experience. The lovely lady there let us hold some of the stuff found, including a neolithic childs tooth, sounds possibly comic, but it was a strange, humbling experience.
I don't know if the visitor centre there has changed since 2014, but I would guess so as it was very basic when we visited, but I really liked that.

Tomb of the eagles is obviously great and a must see but the whole operation there is a bit more 'slick' and I found them a little pushy tbh. I felt like I was a tourist being 'processed' which is a bit unfortunate at such a great site.