It doesn't help that ever since Sir Walter Scott we've been a caricature of ourselves for the benefit of royals and tourists alike... Some good "real" Scottish history programs been on the TV lately though.

All the celtic nations tend to be pretty insular. I remember walking into a similar pub in the wilds of Northern Ireland where we walked in and every head turned to look at us, and every voice went silent. Into the silence, my husband, with his Liverpool accent, said:

"It's okay - I'm from Scotland"

They got us drunk there on a very pale whiskey that felt like each sip was blowing the top of your head off.