hi
I'm no expert, well not even a beginner really, but for big flashy sites you can't beat Kilmartin. Ilkley is pretty cool too. Kilmartin also has the museum with a selection of rock art books.
sam
For a book, best intro is Beckensall's British Prehistoric Rock Art. There are many others, like Paulus says, the BRAC list is pretty much spot on, but Stan's one is probably the best for service as a gazetteer, but still with enough info to give a good background.