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If I forget to pack a ND grad filter or if its gotten scratched I sometimes resort to exposing for the sky, with RAW files you can pull one and even two stops out of the dark parts of the image with little loss of quality so I then process the same raw file twice, once for the sky and then a second time as a new layer with exposure compensation added with Adobe Bridge. Carefully using the eraser to remove the sky in the second file can give pretty good results.

I haven't resorted to using two photographs in the one image, mostly for PR reasons so I can say that anything visible in my photos was present when the photograph was taken.

Its OK talking about filters and RAW files..but some of us have only got "basic" point and shoot digitals. I used to have a filter mount for non SLRs but buggered if i can remember where it is now...
I am happy with my 3 meg Fuji..and happy with the shots I get with it..not very often I print anything large so high quality don't come into the equation. Going back to the start of this thread, you don't need a super sonic 20 meg camera to get positioning right..you just need a good eye. However I do find...and this is where digital preview comes in handy...that altering the angle of the shot just slightly can make all the difference to colour tones.

Going back to B&W..if I turn a colour shot B&W in Photoshop...what colour "filter" should I apply beforehand to darken the sky?

Mr H